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Handbook for
travellers in
Asia Minor,
Transcaucasia,
Persia, etc
Sir Charles William
Wilson
Digitized by Tooele
HARVARD
COLLEGE
LIBRARY
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Digitized by
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HANDBOOK FOtt TRAVELLERS
IX
ASIA MIN Oil.
Digitized by
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HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IV
A.SIA. MINOR,
TRANSCAUCASIA, PERSIA,
ETC.
EDITED BY
MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES WILSON, R.E., K.C.R.
WITH MAP9 AND PLANS.
f?
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1896.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Ge.oc^ \ 9> o \ ■ |
i~*rk3-a Vu. lau i . i-
\
\
LONDON :
riUNTKD BY WILLIAM CUlWKS AND SONS, Limitii*.
MTAMKUlib bTUKKT ANU CIIAIilNU C'liOdd.
Digitized by L^ooQle
PREFACE.
Tins Itamlliook to Asia Minor, Tmiis-Caucasin, Persia, Ac., has, with the
exception of some of the iioI.cn oii the Islands, boon entirely re-written.
New n'.ajtt and illustrations havo been prepared, and all matter liable to
frequent chaugo lias been removed to the Index. Most of the information
has been supplied, or revised, by friends who have visited the places
described, and tho Editor is under the deepest obligations to them for the
valuable assistance they have rendered him.
Great care has been taken to tccure accuracy but, in a subject so
extensive, it is impossible to avoid errors, and the Editor will gladly
receive such correction and information as may render the Handbook more
generally usefnl.
Amongst the special features of the Handbook are, the History of Asia
Minor, which it is hoped will bo of interest to the student, as well as to
the traveller ; the historical notices of Armenia, Mesopotamia, and Persia ;
and the notes on the various Baees in Asiatio Turkey.
The Editor desires particularly to direct the attention of the travelling
public to the ease witn which many of the most beautiful and interesting
districts of Asia Minor can now bo visited, and to the numerous archaeo-
logical, ethnological, commercial, and social questions which present
themselves for study.
The History of Asia Minor to B.o. 47, the date of Caesar’s victory over
Plummet* at Zola, has been written by Mr. D. G. Hogarth, M.A. ; its
continuation to the advent of the Seljftk Turks by Prof. W. M. ltamsay,
D.C.L. ; and its completion by the Editor. Prof. Ramsay has also con-
tributed the description of the Phrygian Monuments (Rte. 45), several of
which he was the first to discover ; and Mr. Hogarth most of the intro-
ductory notes on climate, aeoommodation, travelling, Ac. (§$ 3-7); the
notes on Inscriptions (§ 15) ; the description of the Monuments at Yaaili
Kaya and Euyuk (Rte. 10) ; and Rtos. 14, 16, 17, 18, 44, 50, 52, 54-67,
62, 63, and 91-96. The Editor is also indebted to the same gentlemen
for many hints and suggestions whilst the Routes were being printed.
r l*ho notes on 8port in Asiatio Turkey have been prepared from infor-
mation supplied by Col. Chcrmsidc, C.B., C.M.G., Military Attach^ at
Constantinople, and Major Rennet, R.E., formerly one of ll.M.’s Vice-
Consuls in Anatolia.
Most of tho Routes In Pastern Anatolia and Trans-Caneasla (litas. 67-
90) have been wiitunby Col. Everett, C.M.U., formerly U.M.’s Consul for
Digitized by
Google ,
vi
Preface ,
Kurdistau, and those that ho lms nut writtou have boon compiled from notea
supplied by Col. Chermaide and Mr. Devey, lately H.M.’s Vice-Consul
at van; and from reports of routes followed by Capt. Maunscl, It. A. Col.
Everett has kindly looked over the routes he did not write; whilst
Mr. Devey has contributed the Armenian and Kurdish vocabularies,
uud has supplied notes which have been largely utilised in compiling (lie
description* of Erxor&m, Van, Bitlis, and Diarbokr, and the remarks on
the Armenians and Kurds.
The descriptions of Smyrna, Ephesus, and the towns on the Smyrna*
Aidin-Diuoir illy, (lttes. 2D and 34), aro by Mr. G. Weber, of Smyrna, who
has also contributed the directory of Smyrna in the Index, and revised
the plan of that town. The plan of Ephesus is by the same gentleman.
The Hon. G. Curzon’s well-known work on Persia has afforded valuable
information for the Persian Boutes, which have been revised by General
Sir Frederic Goldstnid, K.C.S.I., O.B., whose knowledge of Persia is
perhaps unrivalled.
The Editor is under great obligations to Lieut. -Col. liarry Cooler,
formerly one of H.M.'* Vice-Consuls in Anatolia, who has rendered lum
valuable assistance in preparing the lloutes in Western Anatolia. Aud
his best thanks are due to Lieut.-Gen. Chapman, C.B., Director of
Military Intelligence, for allowing him access to the rcjiort* of officers who
have travelled in Anatolia; to the Committee of the Hollouic Society for
the plates of the Phrygian mouumonts ; to M. Maspcro for the drawing of
the monument at Ivriz; to the Council of the Koyal Geographical Society
for permission to ntiliso tho maj* uccomjmnying Mr. Hogarth** |ki{hu*; to
lLM.’s Consular Staff in A. Minor, to several of the American Missionaries,
to Mr. Theodore Boot, Mr. W. Cowner, Mr. Phouc Spiers, F.S.A., Mr.
A, M*cd on *ld, and to other friends for the information which they have
freely placed at his disposal.
The preparation of the map of Anatolia has Ihjoii a work of considerable
difficulty, as no map of the whole country, sufficiently detailed and accu-
rate for the purpose of the Handbook, existed. Tho map has been com-
piled from KieiicrPs aud other published nmi*, and from unpublished
notes supplied by tbo Editor aud other recent travellers. Tho plans of
Boghaz Keui and Pcrgamum are from plans made and published by my
friend Dr. Humann.
The geographical notes, the remarks on the races in Asiatic Turkey,
the introductory notices to the three last Sections, and such Boutes as have
not been specially mentioned, are the work of tho Editor, who is also
responsible for tho orthography.
C. W. Wiuson.
June, 1895.
Digitized by L^ooQle
-CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
SECTION I.
WESTERN ANATOLIA.
srct.
1 . rawport* ; Money, Ac. . .
2. Geography
3. Climate and Seasons;
Diseases; Modieinos.
4. Accntninodation ....
5. Mode or travelling ; hire of
horses; Guides. Ac. .
G. Outfit; Arms; Camp Equip-
ment; Clothes; Provi-
sions. Ac. liCtters of
In trod notion ....
7. Expenses
8. Dragomans; Travelling Ser-
vants . . . . . .
0. Sport
10. History ....'..
1 1 . The People ......
(a.) Moslems (Turks) . i
l'.\OK
SO]
r
r.7j
[10],
[IS]
(Kurils) » . .
(Circassian., Ac.) .
(Kizil-bash, Ansnri
< 5 S h
fozidis) ...
(Yuruks, A vshars, Ac.
(/*.) Christians, Jews, Ac.
(Greeks)
(Armenians) . ' '»•
(Neetorinna) .
(Chaldseans, Jacobites,
Ac.) . * . .
(Jews) . . . .:
12. American Missions . .
13. Geology .....
14. Architecture .< . . . t
15. Inscriptions . : < .
16. Hooks and Maps
raun
p
[ 66 ]
P
P
m
[82J
[83*
[83
[84 :
[84’
[85
[ 88 ]
ROUTES.
ROUTR rAOR
1. Constantinople to Bat ft ru, l>y
8ca 1
2. Skntori — Boll — Rastnmftni
— Samsftn 5
3. Ismid — Kcfkenllny — Erogli 8
4. Inoboli — Kostamftni — An-
gora 0
5. Routes from Sinope ... 11
G. Ismid — Boli — Tosia — Mur-
sivan — Amasia ... 11
7. Ismid — Torbali — Angora . 13
ROUTE. PAOR
8. Hrftsa — Bilejik — Sugut —
Eski-shehr 15
D. Brftsii — Sivri-hisear — An-
gora 16
10. Angora — Boglmx Kcni —
Enyuk — Marsivan — Sam-
sftn 19
11. Angora — Ynzgat— 8ivas . 32
12. Yn*gat — Su lu-serai — Tokat 35
13. Samsftn — Yusgat — Raisa-
riyeh 36
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viii Contents.
K OUT Ik IMG li
14. Samsdn — Amaaia — Tokafc —
Sivaa 38
15. Amaaia — Zilleli — Sivaa. . 43
16. Amaaia — Niksar — Kara-
htasar 44
17. Tokat — Nikaar — Unioli. . 46
18. Sivaa — Kora-kissar — Kora-
sand 47
19. 8ivaa— Zara — Ordu ... 49
20. Sivaa — Kaiaariyeh ... 49
21. Angora — Kir-aliehr — Kai-
aariyeh 54
22. Constantinople to Angora,
by Rail 56
23. Britan — Kutaya — Atiftm
Kara-hissar .... 57
24. Britaa — Rhyndacus Valley —
Azani — Uahak. ... 58
25. Brfisa — Balikisri — Bcrgama 60
26. Pandorma — Macestus Valley
— Gediz 62
27. Dardanellea — Troaa— Aaaoe
— Aivali — Smyrna . 63
28. Dardanellea — Iuo — Mouut
Ida 67
29. Gonatautinoplo to Smyrna,
by Soa ti'J
Smyrna 70
Excursions from Smyrna 77
30. Smyrna — Manisa — Sardia —
Philadelphia, by Rail . 79
3 1 . Smyrna — Thyateira — Per-
gamum — Smyrna ... 84
82. Smyrna — Nymphaoum —
Sardia 89
33. Valley of the Cayater . 90
34. Smyrna — Ephesus — Aidin
— Hierapolia — Laodioea —
Coloaaae — Dineir (Ajki-
mea\ by Rail .... 92
35. Tour of the Seven Churches 107
36. Smyrna — Tees — Lebed us —
Smyrna 108
37. Smyrna — Prieno — Branchi- .
doe — BudrCtm ( Halicar -
. nciMut) 110
38. Smyrna — My loan — Makri
( Tdmessu*) .... 115
39. Aidin — Alahunda — Mtiglila
— Marmuriou . . . . 116
UOUTB
40. Cnidus
41. Smyrna — Aphrodiaioa —
Denizli
42. Smyrna — Denizli — El mali
— Adalia
48. Adulia — Mym — Paturu —
Xunthua — Mukri .
44. Smyrna — Ualiuk — All u in
Kara-hissar — Konia .
45. Smyrna to Constantinople,
by the Phrygian Monuments
46. Dinoir to Aliftm Kam-
litasar
47. Dineir — Antioch — Konia
48. Dineir — Buldur — Saga-
1 ass us — Isbarta Egirdir
— Konia
49. Isbarta — Cremna — Adalia .
50. Konia — Foaailor — Kara
Baulo ( Adada > — Adalia .
51. Bey-slielir — Isaura — Kora-
man
52. Konia — Karaman — Eregli —
Tarsus — Mersina . . .
53. Konia — Kara- bunar— Eregli
54. Konia — Ak-scrai — Kui-
siiriyuli
55. Ivuisuriyoli — Nigdeli — Bor
—Eregli
56. Kaisariyoh to Mursiuu, by
Nigdeh
57. Kuisariyoh to Meraina, by
Berckotli Maden . . .
58. The Troglodyte Monuments
of Cappadocia .
59. Smyrna to Alexandretta, by
Sea
60. Adalia — Perga — Sillyum—
A spend us — Side
61. Adalia — Alaya — Kilindria
— Selefke — Meraina .
62. Sclcfke — Mut (Chudio}>oli$)
— Karaman ....
63. Selefke to Karaman, by
Olba ......
64. Meraina — Tarsus — Adana .
65. The Cilicinn Plain . . .
66. Adana — Piyos ( Bainc ) —
AloxaiidrcMn ....
I'AOB
117
118
119
124
129
134
145
147
149
152
153
155
156
161
161
163
165
166
167
170
171
174
180
182
184
187
191
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Contents .
ix
SECTION II.
BA8TSRN ANATOLIA AND TRANS CAUCASIA.
l'AOK
Eastern Anatolia : — ' Outfit, Sport, Books . . 198
Googrophy . . . ;. i 1 93 Tbans-Caucasia
History . . . . . . 194 | Geography, History . •. 198
Armenia 195 j Climate, Outfit, Travelling,
Kurdistan 197 ! Sport, Books .... 199
Climate 197 .
HOOTS i
67. Trebizond — Baiburt— Kr-
zerfttn . . . . . .
68. Trebizond — Sumcla Monas-
tery — Erzerftra «...
69. Trebizond — Kolat Dagli —
Erzerftm . . • .• . .
70! Trcbizoud — Satala — Krzin-
gau
71. Baiburt — Krzingnii . . .
72. Trebizond — Itiza — Erze-
rftm. . . . . . . 209
78. Erzerftm — Tortum — Artvin
— Batftm . . . 211
74. Erzerftm — Ispir — Baiburt . 214
75. ErzerOm — Kara — Alexati-
dropol — Tiflis .... 215
76. Erzerftra — Ardahan — Ak-
baltsikh — Tiflis 218
77. Kars — Ani — Alexandropol., 219
78. Alexandropol — Aklinlka-
laki — Akhaltsikh — Tiflis 221
79. Erzerftm — Bayezid — Tabriz 222
80. Bayezid — Echmiadzin — Er-
ivan — Tiflis ; . . .' 226
81. Bayezid — Pergri — Van. i 229
82. Erzerftm — Aganz— Voft — 1
Kotur — Khoi i t * •<' 290
83. Aganz — Akhlat — Bitlis^ '
Van • » i i i " »' 295
[Turkey.']
MOOTS TAOr.
84. Yan — Baah-kala — Diza —
Urmia . . ... 297
85. Van— Jularaerk — A madia
— Mosul . . . .. . 239
86. Van to Jozire ... . . 240
87. Erzcrftm — - Mush — Bitlia — .
Sort — Jozire — Mosul . . 24 1
88. Erzcrftm to Diarbekr . ... 217
89. Krzerftm— Erzijigan — Egin
. — Kharput— Diarbekr^ ’. 249
90. Sivas to Erzerftm ... . 252
91. Sivas — Divrik — Egin— Ma-
latia— Samsat — Birejik 254
92. Sivas — Gurun — Albietan —
Zeitftn — Marash . . . 200
93. Sivas — Kharput — Diarbekr
— Mordin 204
94. Sivas — Shahr ( Comana ) —
* ' Hajin — Sis 267
95. Eaisariyeh — Geuksuu — Al-
biBtan — Malatia — Khar-
put . . 209
96. Anti-Taurus . ., . ( ." Y 272
97. Kaisariyeh— Ferakdin— Si^ 273
98. AdaUa— Sis^Marash * 274
99. Adttntt— Missis— Maraah —
Stirglii — Mutatin' i ;• 'T 275
1 ♦**••/ ‘ * . I *
I,
llOUTES.
1‘40B
200
200
207
?08
208
Digitized by L^ooQle
X
Content*.
SECTION III.
NORTHERN STRIA, MESOPOTAMIA, AND PERSIA.
TADIC
Northmen Stria : —
Geography, History, dfce. . 278
Mesopotamia
Geography, Goiumuu {ca-
tions 271)
History 280 i
TACK
The People, Climate, Books,
&c 282
si a
Geography, History . . 283
The Pooplo, Religion . . 284
Cliinato, Travelling . . 285
HOCTR
100. Alexandretta — A in tab —
Diarbokr 287
101. Alexandretta — Aleppo —
Urfa — Mardin — Mosul . 288
102. Aleppo — Deir— Hit — Bagh-
dad 297
103. Diarbekr to Baghdad, by
raft 300
Baghdad 301
104. Baghdad — Kerkuk — Ar-
bola — Mosul .... 301
105. Baghdad — Tekrit — Mosul 300
100. Baghdad — Hillah (Baby-
lon ) — Kerbela — Meshed
All ♦ . . , 307
107. Baghdad to Damascus . 311
108. Baghdad to Niffer, Warka,
and Mukeir .... 312
ItOL'TK TACR
109. Baghdad — Basra — Mu-
hummcmh . . .313
110. Tabriz — Kazvin — TehrAn. 315
111. Urmia — Tabriz. . . 319
112. Mosul — Rowanduz— Urmia 321
113. Mosul — Suleimanieh —
Salma — Tehrftn . . . 322
114. Baghdad — Rania — Suj
Bulak — Tabriz . . .' 324
1 1 5. Baghdad — Harman - shah
— Hamndan — Tohrun . 325
110. Muhaminerah — Dizl’ul —
Susa — lvbontm-abad — ■
Tehran ' 328
117. Bushire— Shiraz — Isfahan
— TohrAu 333
118. Bandar Abbas — Harman —
Yezd — TehrOn . . . 341
119. Indio, via tho Persian Gulf 342
ROUTES.
TACK
SECTION IV.
THE IS
PACK
General Information . . 844
1. Tenedos (Tonodo) . . . 346
2. Lemnos (Linini). . . . 346
8. Imbros (Imbro) .... 348
4. Samothreoe (Saroothraki) . 348
5. Thasos (Tbaso) .... 349
6. Lesbos (Mitylenc) . . . 351
7. Psyra (Psora) .... 354
8. Chios (Khio) 355
9. Icaria (Nicaria) .... 358
10. Samos (Samo) .... 359
11. Patmos (Patino). . . 361
12. Lcroa (Lem) 302
AND8.
! ! TACK
18. Calymna (Kalymno) . . 803
14. Astypuloca (Astropulia) . 303
15. Cos (Kos) 304
16. NisyroB(Nisyro}. . . ,. 300
17. Teloe (Tilo) 307
18. Syme (Symi) 367
19. Cltuloo (Klmlki) .... 367
20. llhodo8 (Rhodes, ltodi). 808
21. Carpathos (Scarpanto) . . 375
22. Casos (Kaso) 375
23. Megiste (Costelorizo) 376
Index, Classical 377
Index, General 383
Digitized by L^ooQle
' < * )
LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS.
J
rAos
Map of Western Asia Minor .
. in pocket at beginning.
^ Plan of Ptoria
to face 21
Yasili Kaya
22
Prooossion from Great Gallery, Yasili Kaya
24
Sculptured figure, Yasili Kaya
25
Bas-relief, Reapers, Yasili Kaya
. 25
Plan of Enynk
28
Sphinx, Enynk
. 20
Sacrificial Animals, Enyuk
30
/ Plan of Smyrna .....
In for* 74
„ I*orgamiim
. . 86
n Ephesns
or.
Phrygian Monument CVmntry .
135
“Lion "Tomb
. .137
Phrygian Tomb
. , 138
Monument at Irriz
150
^ Map of Kaisoriyeh to the Gilician Gates .
to face 168
„ Eastern Cilicia and Mount Anianus
188
„ Anti-Taurus ....
. . . ft 272
w Assyria (Part of)
. 205
Plan of Babylon ....
308
¥ General Map, Turkey in Asia .
. . in pocket at end.
* Map of Eastern Asia Minor
.in three eectioni at end.
Digitized by CjOO^Ic
( xii )
SKELETON TOURS.
Tour A— Th* Sevkm Ciiou-
cues (See Ittc. »6.)
11 days;* or 17 daja* oid
Aphrodlsiaa.
Tour B — The Piikyoian
Monumkxtu.
Constantinople.
Kskl-shehr
Soldi (Jhatl .
Tlie Monuments
Aflum Kara liissar
Diuoir . .
Smyrna .
10 day*.*
Tour 0 — Tiik Booiiae Kkh
Monuments.
Constantinople
Angora .
liugjbai Keui
Kuyuk .
Chorum .
Ainasta .
Samstlti .
CousUnUnople
16 days.*
Tour D— ' Thk Lakes, Iconium,
amu Lystua.
Smyrna.
Diuelr , . . Rte. 34.
Isbarta • . . 4s.
Kgirdlr 48.
Antioch 48.
lconium . • H 48.
Lyotra 52.
IjSIUimIa • . *. 6*4.
Cybialia • • .. 62.
Ute. 22.
„ 46.
.. 45.
„ 46.
» 46.
.. 34.
Rt . 22.
16.
>* 10.
„ 10 .
.. 10 .
„ 14.
.. 1 .
Tour O— Ait mem a .
Auauat.
Constantinople.
TrebUond
Krierum
Ararat .
! KchmlAdtlu
, rials .
Batilni .
Constant lnoplo
| 33 days.*
Tarsus * •
Rte. 62.
Merelna . •
.. 64.
Smyrna .
.. 69.
27 days.*
TourB— Lycia. j
Smyrna. i
Makri (by steamer)
lUe. 69.
Xanthus . .
4 3.
ltatara .
» 43.
Mvra . . .
„ 43. 1
Ads' la .
.. 43. ;
Smyrna (by steamer)
*» 60.
10 uays.*
Tour F— Cappadocian MoXU-
MEXTg.
Constantinople.
8am*flu . . •
lUe. 1.
Sivao
„ 14.
Kalsarlyeh
„ 20.
Nev-sliebr
.. 68.
Sogbanli Here
„ 68.
HassaKeul .
„ 58.
Nlgdeb .
66.
Mersina .
„ 60.
Smyrna . ...
„ 69.
29 daya .•
Tour H — Aemekia, Kuud-
UJTAK, AMD MESOPOTAMIA.
Constantinople.
Trebizond •
Krxcrum
Etc.
lUe. 1.
.. 67.
.. 79.
80.
80.
» 76.
1.
1.
67.
82.
Kochauucs . . ** 86.
Mosul . . • «> 86.
Baghdad Btes. 103, 104. or 105.
Deir . Rte. 102.
Aleppo . . . „ 102.
Alexandritta . „ .101.
Smyrna . . . .. 60.
70 days.*
Tour I — N. Syiua, Trains
Valley, axu 1 ‘eksia.
Smyrna.
Alcxandn-tta .
Aleppo .
Birejlk .
Urla .
Dlarbekr
Mosul
Baghdad Rtea. 103, 1
Bnshlro .
Sbiras .
Isfahan .
Trbrin .
Kntell .
Baku .
Tiflls .
Ikitum .
Constantinople
y0 day*.
Ute. 69.
M 10*.
.. 101 .
101.
„ 101 .
.. 101 .
104, or 105.
Ute. 109.
„
„ 117.
,, 117.
„ 117.
„ 119.
.. HO-
„ 76.
i> 76.
.. I-
• These figures represent tho number of days travelling ; odd stoppages at discretion.
Digitized by C^ooQle
INTRODUCTION.
8EOTION I.
WSSXERV ANATOLIA.
INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.
1 1. Passports, Money, Ac.— § 2. Geography.— % 8. Climate, Seasons for
Travelling, Diseases, Ac. — §4. Accommodation .— f 5. Mode <tf Travel-
ling, Steamers, Railways, Guidee, Ac.—} A Outfit, Arms, Clothing,
Ac.— 4 7. Expense *. — § A Dragoman* and Servant *.— f 9. Sport . —
} 10. History . — § 11. The People . — } 12. American Mission *. —
1 18. Geology . — f 14. Architecture . — } 15. Inscription *. — | 10. Book*
and Map*.
{ 1. Passports, Monet, Ac.
A Foreign 0£Sce passport most be taken by British subjects, ss without
it a traveller cannot obtain a Fol Tezkere or travelling passport, which is
now obligatory. This latter document is obtained on application through
a Consulate. The money is the same as in other parts of Turkey. The
traveller should provide himself with a good supply of small coins, as
change cannot always be obtained in the interior, ror full information as
to passports, money, weights, measures, Ac., see Handbook to Constan-
tinople .
f 2. Geography.
IPesfem Anatolia, or Rum, surrounded on three sides by water, and
stretching out, as it were, a many-fingered hand from Asia towards Europe,
occupies a remarkable position. The near approach of the Asiatic and
European shores at the Bosporus and the Dardanelles, and the numerous
islands that stud the Aegean, afford facilities for communication between
the two continents which were utilised at a very remote period. The earliest
routes to the far East passed through W. Anatolia, and we are only be-
ginning to appreciate the influence which the religion and art of its early
inhabitants exercised upon those of the ancient Greeks.
W. Anatolia is, speaking generally, an elevated plateau rising from about
2500 ft on the W. to some 4500 ft on the E., near the foot of Anti-
[Turkey.'] c
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[2] Introduction. — Geography.
Taurus, which sqiaratos it from tho higher districts of E. Anatolia (p. 193).
On the 8. the plateau is buttressed by the Taurus range which, in places,
rises little above the general level, but, in others, as in the Lydan
mountains and the Bulgar D., attains an altitude of from 7000 to 8000 ft.
On the N. it is similarly buttressed by a range of varying altitude that
has no distinctive name. On the W. the edge of the plateau is broken by
numerous broad valleys, and is of no great height except near the Sea of
Marmara, where the range of the Mysian Olympus rises to 7600 ft Here
and there minor ranges, such as the Phrygian mountains and the Sultan D.,
rise above the level of the plateau, and there are several remarkable
mountains of volcanic origin, of which Mk Argaeua, 13,100 ft., is the
loftiest and best known. A large portion of the plateau is, however,
almost level, and much of the central district is a treeless plain of the
most dreary and uninviting character.
The valleys on the plateau are as a rule broad and open, but on
approaching the coast' line the rivers find their way to the sea, either
through deep, almost inaccessible gorges, or through wide trough-like
valleys snch as those of the Hermus and Maeander on the W. coast. In
the central and southern portions of the plateau the streams do not flow
directly to the sea. The waters that run during winter into the large
.central Tuz Geul, and ink) the Buldur and smaller lakes, pass off by
evaporation in summer leaving thick deposits of salt ; whilst those of the
Ak, Soghla, Bey-shchr, and Egirdir Lakes find their way beneath Mt.
Taurus to swell the volumes of the Cydnus, the Melas, and the Eurymedon.
The place where a stream disappears is locally called “ Duden,” the Greek
Katabothron, and the largest is that of the Boghaz Su near Egirdir. None
of the larger rivers — the Iris, Halys, and Sangarius which run to the
Black Sea ; the Rhyudacus, Hermus, Caystcr, and Maeander which dis-
charge into the Marmara, and Aegean ; or tho Xanthus, Melas, Eurymedon,
Caiycadnus, Cydnus, Sarus and Pyramus which flow to the Mediterranean
— are uavigable for any distance from their mouths.
The number of large springs in the mountain districts is one of the
peculiar features of the country, and one of its greatest charms. After
travelling for days over the waterless plain, nothiug is more grateful than
the sight of the clear waters bursting from tho ground and ruuniug away
down aoine wild rocky ravine, or through the midst of luxurinut vegeta-
tion. There are also many hot springs, marked by the ruins of liotuau
baths, which are still used for various disorders. Those of Brusa are best
known, but Smyrna, Angora, Konia, Kaisariyeh, and Sivas have each their
sj»ecial hot springs to which the people resort in summer. At Tuzla,
N.W. of Assos, there is a salt spring so hot that a fowl can be cooked
in it.
The vegetation varies with the climate. On the N. coast where tho
influence of the moisture-laden winds of the Black Sea is felt, the
mountains are clothed with magnificent forest. On the 8. coast the
forests are smaller, and the variety of foliage is not so great. In tho
central district there is little vegetatiou, and the great summer heat and
uncertain rainfall make agricultural operations precarious.
The agricultural and mineral wealth would, if properly developed, be
enormous. Few countries can show such excellent land for the growth of
wheat, or cau produce such a variety of good fruit. Ara&sia apples, and
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Introduction . — Climate ; Diseases; Medicines . [ 8 ]
Angora pears, both derived from English stocks, ton hardly be surpassed,
whilst the cultivation of vine, olive, and fig, on the W. and S. ooasts,
might be increased to an unlimited extent. Many districts are favourable
to the production of silk, cotton, rice, opium, liquorice, tohacco, madder,
gum tragacanth, yellow berries, the valonea oak, the carob-tree, Ac. The
hill-sides provide pasture for immense numbers of goats, including the
Angora (mohair) goat, and sheep; whilst camels and a hardy breed of horses
are raised on the upland plains. Amongst the minerals are gold, silver,
lead, iron, coal, boracide, chrome, fuller's earth, rock salt, kaolin, and
meerschaum ; large quantities of salt are obtained by evaporation ; and
serpentine and fine marbles are found in many districts.
J 3. Climate and Seasons for Travelling ; Prevalent Diseases ;
Medicines.
The season wl traveller, if ho journeys slowly, and with due regard to
the needs of his horses and men, can visit any part of the Central plateau
of Asia Minor with comfort, even in the hottest months of the summer ;
but many parts of the highland are so cold in winter, at times 15° to
20° below zero, Fahr., as to make travelling unpleasant. In the districts
east of Kaisariyeh and Sivas snow lies from November till April, and
even in the region of Konia and all the western part of the table-land
winter is more rigorous than in England. Even in the summer
months cold north winds sweep over the plains, and owing to the
extreme dryness of the air tho nights are generally cool. It is,
therefore, impossible to travel comfortably in the interior before April,
and even then the higher valleys of tho Taurus and Anti-Taurus
would be found snow-covered, and the natives living half underground.
To travellers unused to tho direct rays of a July sun in Asia Minor, May
and June present most attractions. Tho days are long, the soring flowers
and herbage are at their best, water is still abundant, and cool nights
may be expocted confidently. If, however, an intending traveller is not
afraid of heat, there is much to be said in favour of a later start, especially
if it is proposed to visit the moro remote and picturesque parts of tho
interior. In tho first place tho weather in July is less likely to bo brokon
by cold rain-storms than in May or June, and the traveller feels himself
less dependent on shelter for the night— a great consideration in thinly-
populated hill districts. Secondly, not until June do the villagers be-
take themselves to the yailas or summer villages ; the existence of which
makes it possible to travel in the mountains. Again, if the journey
is deferred to harvest-time two great advantages are secured: first,
shelter, food, and information can then be procured at the outlying
threshing-floors; secondly, the new barley is available for the horses.
In May or June peat scarcity of fodder is often experienced. Lastly,
in Juno and July vegetables of all kinds, and in August fruits, begin
to be abundant. The traveller who makes a long journey will find this
well worth considering ; in the earlier months he will not be able to vary
the native diet of bread, yatirt, rice, and flesh, oxcept with tinned pro-
visions, which are cumbrous to carry, and unwholesome to eat fot* any long
period.
September is a pleasant month in the interior. October is apt to be
o 2
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[ 4 ] Introduction . — Climate; Diseases; Medicines.
rainy, ami with November tlio snows return on the higher ports of Iho
plateau. The travelliug season, therefore, is from tho beginning of May to
the end of October. Tho sun-heat during these six months is always great,
but it is much tempered both by breezes and by the dryness of the air. The
worst time of the day is from noon to four o’clock in the afternoon, and the
traveller will be wise to remain in the shade during those hours in July,
August, and September, both for his own and his horses’ sake. Malaria
is always hanging in hollow or damp places on the plateau ; but a European,
new to the country, iB seldom affected by it to any serious degree. 8till,
there is a sense of lassitude and depression experfcnced by most travellers,
which is really a mild form of the disease. It must be guarded against by
taking quinine, and avoiding over-fatigue or under-feeding. Anyone who
sleeps under the open sky must cover up his head from the dew. With
reasonable precautions there is no reason why anyone, whose condition is
normal, should not travel safely in the interior of Asia Minor iu
summer-time.
In the Cilician plain and lowlands of southern Asia Minor generally,
the travelling season is from January to May, although the first two
months are not unlikely to be rainy and cold. For the vicinity of Smyrna
and the west coast generally, March, April, May and October are good
months ; and in many seasons November and December also. For Brftsa
and the northern slopes of the plateau, September may be added to the list.
In the low-lying lands near the coast, especially in Lycia and on
the Cilician plain, tho heat both day and night from June onwards is very
great, water becomes scarce and bad, and mosquitoes and all things that
creep or fly infest air aud earth. During these summer months the fever
of the country, due to malaria , or marsh poison, assumes a malignant
type. This poison is generated at certain seasons in certain localities, so
abundantly, that a single night’s stay in such spots is sure to cause fever,
often in a most deadly form. The low grounds are the most dangerous ; but
raised ground, or even a high hill, is not a certain safeguard, unless it be tho
highest in the neighbourhood. The direction of the wind is to be studied
— you will have secured in vain every other favourable circumstance, if the
wind should reach you at night from a marshy locality, llavines, so
tempting to the traveller on account of their verduro and coolness, are es-
pecially to be avoided; the wind invariably blows cither up or down
ravines: if the traveller bo at the top he is safe if the t triad blows down ;
but if the wind blows up, especially a gentle wind, it will collect all the
malaria and carry it up, concentrated as in a funnel, and envelop the
traveller as in a mist, and poison him ; this will explain why an elevatod
position may bo as dangerous as a low one. But elevation above the soil is
always a safeguard, as, for example, an upper room in a house is always to
bo preferred at night to a lower room.
The general directions then will be, “ sleep as high above the soil as
you can and “if the wind comes from a suspected locality, shut up the
windows and doors of the room at night. Avoid remaining at night in
any village or house where the wind from a suspected locality may reach
you, — suspected localities being alluvial plains where rice or tobacco is grown,
ravines, beds of watercourses and rivers, the mouths of rivers, any locality
where stagnant water exists, more especially if it be a mixture of fresh and
. saltwater. Do not be out after sunset, or before sunrise, in such localities ; if
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Introduction.-^ Acconifnodatiort. [ 6 ]
unavoidably out at such hours, a respirator may be of service, usin£ as such
a fold of cloth.** A belt of timber, a spur of a hill, or a high wall, will
save a village or city from the poison of malaria, by warding off and giving
another direction to the gentle winds which otherwise would bring poison.
“If attacked by this fever, an aperient should be taken; then, when
the hot stage of the fever has passed, take quinine in five-grain doses every
hour, till twenty grains at least are taken ; but if the patient should have
a severe attack (which, as a general rule, will be preceded by slight attacks
the two or three previous days, those attacks resembling a feverish cold),
thon give the quinine in ten-grain doses every hour till throe doses aro
taken. — I. McCraith, M.D.,
Warburg's mixture is highly recommended for malarial fever.
Diarrhcea often attacks the traveller in an aggravated form ; it should
be checked with chlorodyne or opium pills ; or, if the bowels have not been
well cleared out of the disease, it should be met by a purgative of oil,
followed by five-grain doses of Dower*# powder , and copious draughts of rice
gruel. Dysentery, even in a mild form, is rare ; it should be treated as
diarrhoea, with the addition of an injection of two ounces thin starch, with
5 or 10 drops of laudanum every 4 hours. Boils and running sores are
not uncommon at the commencement of a journey ; they should be treated
with bread poultice and zinc ointment. Abrasions of the skin are prone to
fester, and cause blood poisoning if not cured at once ; zinc powder t applied
with a puff, followed by cold bandages, is the best remedy.
Medicines. — For Fever: Warburg’s mixture, quinine pills, aconite.
Diarrhoea: Collis Brown's chlorodyne, opium pills, Dover’s powder. Con-
slijtation , which ofton induces sun-stroke: Cockle’s pills, blue pills, pyretic
saline, seidlitz powders (in glass bottles), Eno’s fruit salt, magnesia, &c.
Other useful preparations are vaseline, zinc ointment, zinc powder, diachylon,
mustard plaister, bandages, lint, oil silk, and cotton wadding. 8ome pre-
paration for the eyes will often be found useful, if not for the traveller him-
self, at any rate for natives with whom he may wish to establish friendly
relations. All medicines should be purchased in England, or at the British
chemists in Constantinople or Smyrna. Druggists are found in large towns
in the interior, but it is unsafe to have any medical dealings with them.
§ 4. Accommodation.
Except in Jthe larger coast-towns and one or two civilised spots, such as
Brfisa, hotels do not exist in Asia Minor. Locandas , or primitive inns,
are to be found in some large centres, e.g. t Kaisariyeh, and are usually
kept by Christians ; the locanda-keeper is always an ashji, or cook, and
will supply the traveller with food, and a room furnished or unfurnished.
Many of these houses are fairly clean, and the food is nearly always good.
In every town which has a bazar or market, a khan, or at any rate a
kahvehj is to be found. The Rhine differ from locandas in that a khdnji
does not expect to have to supply food, nor have any furniture beyond a divan .
Coffee and rdki are always procurable from a sort of bar in the entrance
kept by a kahvaji , who may or may not be identical with the khdnji. All
lendns of any size are built on much the same plan — that of a court sur-
rounded by a two-storied building; the best rooms are in the upper
story, and are approached from a shady gallery or verandah which runs
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[ 6 ] Introduction . — Accommodation t
all round. Tho stables are on the ground floor, generally only at one end
of the court. The modus operand* on arriving at a khdn is to send for the
oda bashi t who has the keys of the rooms, and ask for the best room in
the khAu ; that secured, the key is handed over to the traveller, the room
is swept, carets are spread, and water fetched. Food must be obtained
either from ono of tho eatinghousc-koopors (ashji or yomekji ) in the
b&z&r, who will serve it with plates, knives, forks ana napkins at the
traveller's own time ; or, if, as is often the case, there be no eatinghouse, a
servant must make a fire in a tripod and cook as in cAmp. On leaving,
the khunji is paid for the accommodation and the oda bashi is tipped.
Tho amount is usually left to the travellers discretion ; nothing ought to be
paid for stabling, the profit on the barley supplied being usually considered
sufficient; but lor the traveller’s own room and the accommodation
of his party a mejidteh a night is ample remuneration. Old kh&ns are to
be avoided; they too frequently swarm with bugs, lice, and some-
times ticks, certain varieties of which, e.g. those which live on camels, are
not pleasant visitants. In inquiring therefore about kh&ns, it is well to
ask for the yeni khdn (new kh&n); it will generally turn out that tho
newest in a large town is kept by a Christian. If there is no khdn in a
bazar- town there is suro to be a kahveh , or coffee-shop. These arc small,
dirty, and noisy, and usually intolerable unless access can be obtained to
the roof. They are not built rouud a square like khdns , nor, as a rule,
have they any btahling. In nine cases out of ten it is better to camp than
patronise a kahveh .
In villages the traveller who has no tent, or does not wish to pitch it
owing to bad weather, or the like, asks for the oda t or guest-house, which
is generally the best house in the place and close to the mosque. These
guest-hounea exist os tho common property of almost every village, Mussul-
man or Christian, in the west. If any difficulty is experienced, either in
finding the oda , or procuring water and other necessaries when established
in it, the ' aydn of the village must be sent for. He has charge of strangers,
and usually attends loyally to their wants. Everyone has a right to make
use of the common oda , and thus the traveller will find that he has little
privacy there, and, unless ho is firm, he may have to share it with very un-
savoury bedfellows. The native traveller receives his own food froo, but
pays for his horse’s holder ; a European is sometimes exiiected to pay a
small sum for his own food and accommodation, as well as that of his horse.
It is hard to determine in such cases when to pay and when not to pay ;
the former course is safe, the latter more in accord with native custom.
On the main roads it is alwavs best to offer (laymcnt, and it will seldom
be refused; iu the hills or of! the beaten track it is well to consult one’s
servant liefore offering what may be indignantly rejected. In tho
east country common odas are scarce, and the traveller lodges with
the richest man in the village, who usually has a guest-chamber
adjoining his house. In such cases the question of payment is even more
difficult, and must l>e left to the traveller' s discretion. All odas have a
stable attached ; in many the guest-chamber and stable are in one, and
such Are to be a voided j A verandah or an accessible flat roof are much to
be desired, as all manner of creeping things live in the common room.
A buyuruldu always 'secures hospitality in private houses or convents;
if.it be sent on to the Turkish authorities they will order the traveller to
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Introduction *< — Mode of Travelling. [ 7 ]
be received into one of them. Unde sheds, in which coffee is sold, are
attached to the guard-houses erected for the security of travellers; and it is
usual t6 stop a few minutes and drink a cup of coffee.
By far the pleasantest accommodation, at least in summer, is to be
found in the traveller’s own tent. A camp has many advantages over an
oda : it commands consideration from the natives ; it is free from fleas,
bu£s and ticks, if the ground be carefully selected ; and it affords the
traveller a “ castle ” of his own, where he can entertain and whence he can
exclude whom he will. A spot should be chosen as near as may be to the
village fountain, but not where goats are in the habit of lying at mid-day i
for such ground is often alive with ticks. Sometimes the camp can be
pitched near the village oda or some friendly house, and the servants and
horses lodged therein : the former are more comfortable and the latter safer,
than in the open round the tents. It is neither possible nor politic to keep
native visitors away from the camp, but it is well to make a rule not to
admit them, except as a very special favour, inside the tents. A tent may
always be placed with safety in the midst of, or neat, an encampment of
Turkomans or Yuruks. These primitive wanderers will receive the traveller
kindly, offering him milk, eggs, and whatever they possess gratuitously*
Native servants are accustomed to sleep in the Open near the camp fire ;
and the kiraji will never lie far away from his horses. It is possible and
safe to dispense with a tent in the summer and sleep under the sky,
provided the head is swathed in a handkerchief. s A tent can be little used
m the daytime on account of the heat. * , '' ' ‘
Turkish baths are to be found in all large towns, but they are’ often
dirty; and as a rule it is better to avoid them, unless tho traveller can hire
them for himself and have them cleaned.
$5. Mode ok Travelling; Hire of Horses; Guides; Zaptiehb.
Western Anatolia can be easily reached vid Constantinople, Smyrna, or
Egypt The routes from England to Constantinople are given in the Hbk,
to Constantinople; those to Smyrna are : — (1.) via Marseilles by steamers
of the Messageries Maritimes ; the Nav. Gen. LUdiana ; Fraissinet et Cie ;
and Paquet et Cie . : (2.) via Brindisi or Trieste by steamers of the Aust.-
ffung. Lloyd; and the Nav. Gen. Ltaliana: (3.) vid Liverpool by
steamers of thb Cuhard Co. ; Messrs* Leyland ; Moss ; and Papyanni.
The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes , the Russian Co., and the
Mahsdse Co., touch at Alexandretta and Mersina ; and those of the Avst.-
ffung . Lloyd at Rhodes, on their way from Egypt to Smyrna. I
From Constantinople there is frequent communication with the Black
Sea ports ; and from Smyrna with ports on the W. and 8. toasts, and with
the islands (see Index). Information as to routes and time tables*
which are always liable to change, must be sought iii the usual quarters.
The Anatolian Railways are: — (1.) Haidar Pasha— Isnlid — Eski-shehr
— Angora. (2.) Smyrna — Manisa — Ala-shehr, with a branch, Manisa-^
Ak-htssar— I Soma, and a local line, Smyrna — Bumabat. (3.) Smyrna-*-
Ephesus— Aidin — Dineir with branches, Turbali— Odemish, Gonjeli —
Deoizli, and Sutlej — Chivril. (4;) Mersina^— Tarsus— * Adana. 1
For Telegraph and Postal arrangements, see Hbk. to Constantinoplei :
Almost all journeys in the interior must be made in the saddle or in a
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[$] Introduction . — Mode of Travelling .
waggon, araba. A takhttravan (similar to the Sicilian lettiga\ carried between
two mules, horses, or camels, is sometimes engaged for kdies and invalids.
There are three modes of travelling . The most agreeable and comfortable
consists in having native servants, tents, and either one’s own horses or
those hired from a katirji or muleteer. The speed is slow, the caravan
rarely accomplishing more than 20 or 25 m. a day. The tents are pitched
in the evening near some running stream or some pleasant gardens. The
provisions, either brought from the last resting-place, or purchased in the
village near the night’s encamping ground, are cooked near the tents, and
your servants spread your carpets, prepare your pipes, and mix your
sherbets. This mode of travelling is comparatively cheap, but requires
some acquaintance with the language and customs of the people. It is
undoubtedly that which commands tne most respect, enables the traveller
to see and to learn most, and causes him least fatigue and annoyance.
The second mode is that usually adopted by Englishmen of certain
means. It consists in hiring a dragoman, Turkish, Levantine, or Greek,
who speaks some European language, paying him so much a day, and
leaving every arrangement in his hands. Some trouble may be spared,
but the traveller will learn little of the people amongst whom he is
travelling, will be imposed upon in every way, and will pay much above
the real price for everything.
The third mode is the best for one who desires to become thoroughly
acquainted with the country and people, and to learn something of the
language. It consists in buying a couple of horses, one for a riding-horse
the other for a pack-saddle, on which his luggage — reduced to the smallest
compass — can be placed, aud above it, a native hired as a servant. In this
way the traveller can go from village to village, sometimes joining parties
or caravans, at others journeying Alone, according to the nature of the road
and the safety of the country. He will spend very little. He will lodge
in khans in the great towns, in the odas or public rooms in the villages,
and in the tents of the wandering tribes when crossing the plains which
they frequent, and will of course come in contact with every species of
vermin. He will soon become accustomed to this mode of travelling, will
aoquire information, will become intimately acquainted with the people,
and will in a short time pick up enough of the language to make his way.
This mode of travelling may be vastly improved by the purchase of one or
two additional horses or mules, and the hiring of a cook. A tent can then
be carried along with the necessary cooking apparatus, and the traveller be
independent of all the world.
it is often better to hire than to buy. The purchaser, if a European,
will buy dear and sell cheap; he will find his horse a great anxiety whilst
travelling in disturbed districts, and his servant can rarely be trusted to
feed and groom it properly. Kirajis , “ men who hire (horses),” possessing,
or able to procure, half a dozen horses, can usually be found at short
notice at the railway termini, and at ports; but, in the interior, they are
only met with in large towns on the great trade routes. It is most con-
venient to covenant with the kiraji at the railway or port for the wholo
journey : the kiraji is then bound to supply other horses for any that
break down or are stolen. But it is often best and cheapest to hire from
the railway to an inland town and then to make a new bargain. For
rates of Mrs, see p. [15]. No horses should be engaged without careiul
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Introduction . — Mode of Travelling . '[9]
examination of their books, &c. ; good quarters should be looked for
with a view to hill work; good shoulders are hardly ever found in
Anatolian horses. The kiraji is bound to accompany the party himself or
send some competent substitute. * For current expenses on the road the
traveller will pay him small sums on account, as he needs them, taking
care, however, to be always in his debt. The balance is not paid
till the Journey’s end. If English saddles are used care should be taken
not to girth the horses too tightly, and thick felt saddlecloths, kechcs,
should be used. Anatolian horses do not go well, as a rule, on English
bits. If the traveller brings no saddlery, etc., with him, the kiraji is
bound to supply it, and a Turkish military saddle, or even an ordinary
native one with the stirrups lengthened, will not be found at all uncom-
fortable. Native saddles carry saddlebags, haibas, more conveniently, and.
support a gun laid across the knees better than English ones. The rate
for peck-horses is the same as for saddle-horses, and the kiraji usually
rides upon one of the former in addition to the pack.
Jf the journey is to be only over main roads the native waggon or
araba, drawn by a pair of horses, is a more expeditious, but less healthy
method of conveyance than the saddle. For rate of hire, see p. [161. These
waggons can make their way over very rough ground, provided ft be not
very rocky ; a made road they prefer to avoid. On a lair track, e.g. over
the 44 Axylon,” they will often do 40 miles a day for many days together,
a pace which no ridden horse can maintain. The araba is very useful for
baggage, being more readily loaded than two or three pack-horses, and
it is not a bod plan to take one along with the riding-horses (making
the kiraji responsible for everything), and sending it on from place to
place by easy roads, while the. horsemen follow the more picturesque or
interesting mountain-paths.' Pack-horses can generally be procured for a
few days at a time to supplement the waggon, or, at the worst, two or
three nights without the camp entail no great hardship. Araba-roade
exist between almost all centres, e.g. from Dineir, the terminus of the
Ottoman Railway, a waggon can go to almost every town of importance in
Asia Minor, by direct or circuitous route.
The traveller is recommended not to attempt more than 20 to 26 m. a
day for any length of time ; to give his horses one whole day’s rest in ten ;
to keep a sharp eye on horses’ shoes and insist on their being examined at
short intervals ; to see that the kiraji does not stint barley ; to travel
always with an armed servant behind him, not only for safety, but also
for dignity’s sake ; and to keep his men in good humour by giving them
occasional nights in the comparative luxury of a khan .
Bosses. — In the west country it is rare to see a horse of more than 16
hands; but in the east, where the Circassians and Kurds breed more
carefully, the standard is higher. The setting price of horses varies greatly,
according to the locality and the season ; but the average is from 6 to 10
lime. If a horse has much Arab blood in him, and is possessed of a
teskere, or pedigree, his price is higher. The average pace is from
3 to 4} m. per hour. Anatolian horses, being mostly entire, kick and
fight, and, with a mixed lot, great care is necessary during the first few
days of a journey ; if it be necessary to pass in a narrow place, the passer
must ride as close as possible to the person to be passed, so that the latter’s
boras may kick under the belly of his own. Shying and rolling in water
[ 10 ] Introduction.— ^Outfit ; ‘Arm*; Clothing, dc.
or sand are favourite vices. A macintosh should always be strapped to
the saddle, as thunderstorms are frequent, sudden, and formidable on
the plateau.
Mules are met with in the south, 1 where they have been imported from
Cyprus, and on the northern trade routes passing through Angora and
Sivaa ; tlio supply has largely fallen otf in recent years.
Posting.-— On the post-roads there are post-houses, menzil-khdnch , from
12 to 20 m. apart, at which travellers furnished with a buyuruldu , or order
from a Provincial Governor, can hire horses at the Government rate of
P.44 per hour of road. The hour is from 2£ m. to 3£ m., being the usual
rate of progress of the common caravan, when the muleteers go on foot.
The number of hours between any two post-stations is fixed by official
programme. The horse of the suruji , or postilion, must be paid for ; a very
small present, from 24 to 6 piastres, according to the length of the stage,
satisfies him. The chief stable-man is entitled to a small gratuity. The
amount of speed depends maiply upon the bakhshish , or present to the
suruji, but one can usually depend upon making two hours of road in the
space of one. The postmaster holds his office through a contract with the
Government, by which he is bound to furnish the number of horses required
every week for the mail both ways ; the compensation he receives consists of
a fixed monthly stipend. His engagement also requires him to furnish
Government officials and all persons furnished with an official buyuruldu with
any number of horses they may require, at the Government rate. Should the
postmaster have no horses of his own in his stables, he is bound to procure
and supply them at the price fixed by law. In every town where a Vtdi
resides, it is desirable that the traveller should visit him and obtain a
buyuruldu, ordering postmasters to furnish him with good horses, and
setting forth everything he will require on his journey.
• Guides. — As there are no sign-posts, and tracks cross and recross in
the most bewildering manner, guides are often needed. P.5-10 will
usually induce a peasant to show the road for a whole day, but few guides
are of much use at any distance from their own villages. They should
always be checked by asking casual passers-by. If the traveller is
provided with credentials from the Government he can usually claim a
Zaptieii (mounted policeman) as escort and guide from ouo centre to
another; ujxm main roads and on the plains the xaptieh may be of
great service, as he secures attention and food for his charge; but in the
wild mountain districts, where the Sultan's writ does not run over well,
the hectoring saptieh often gets the traveller into trouble with the nomad
hill-man; it is list to visit Kurds or Circassians unescorted.
§ 0. Outfit; Anus; Camp Equipment; Clothes; Provisions, dec.;
„ Letters of Introduction,
The traveller who confines himself to the seaports will want nothing
but the usual Kuro|iean luggage. The traveller penetrating into the
interior must provide for himself according to the mode (p. [7J) in which
ho proposes to travel. The scale varies from a complete outfit for camp
life to the simple necessaries that can easily be carried on a single pack-
horse. ' A selection may be made from the following stores, equipment,
Ac., according to circumstances. All articles of outfit can bo obtaiued at
Digitized by C^ooQle
Introduction; — Outfit; Armi; Clothing* [11]
Constantinople or Smyrna, bat clothing^ tea, saddlery, and instruments
are best purchased in England.
Arms should always be carried, though they will probably never be
needed for self-preservation. The traveller himself should have a revolver *
and his servant a rifle , or gun across his saddle, rather for appearance sake
than anything else. Against organised brigands the traveller would find
his weajxms of little avail, but he is far more likely to have to deal With
ordinary footpads, insolent villagers, or refractory servants, with Whom ft
revolver is a weighty argument. The importation of rifles and revolvers
is forbidden ; but Winchester rifles can sometimes be obtained at Constan-
tinople and Smyrna. A pistol lanyard is useful with a heavy revolver.
For ammunition, &c., see p. [17].
BAooAOB.-^J9oa5es and large portmanteaus should be left at the sea^
port, as the former gall a horse, and the latter hamper his movements.
Sacks, hold-alls, Gladstone hags, and Silver’s excellent mule-pdnniers ard
convenient kinds of baggage. The traveller must bo prepared to find any-
thing that he takes much rubbed by the pack ropes, in addition to damage
from rolling and crushing through narrow places or forest. The best forms
of baggage ore the native saddle-hags ( khftrj ), and trunks which are madd
of Russian leather, and can be purchased at Constantinople or Smyrna for
£3 to £5 the pair, new. They are waterproof, easily packed, and can be
secured by a padlock. Articles only needed at halting-places should be
8towe’t away in them, whilst such as are liable to be wanted during thd
day arc put into smaller saddle-bags carried on the riding-horses. Thd
Khfirj is best for rough work ; the trunk gives most protection to thd
traveller’s kit.
Camp Kquipmrnt. — A tent is the first requisite, ad the old cities And
places of the greatest interest are frequently distant from the towns of
khftoB. The kind of tent must depend on the number of persons and
their mode of travelling. Very thin and cheap tents should not be. used;
as cold weather and rain-storms are always to be expected, even in the
summer months, on the plateau of Asia Minor: Good stout tents, each
about half a horseload, can be obtained at Constantinople. A tent carpet
can be procured in the country. A camp-bed adds very largely to the
comfort and safety of the traveller ; cork mattrass ; blankets ; air-pillow
and waterproof sheet, for laying on the ground, under the body or bed,
in the tent, and for protecting the bedding from rain on the march. . A
camp-stool, folding tabU\ Indiarubber bath, Jndiarubber or block tin
basin, towels, canteen (bucket form), coffee mill, and pocket filter . The native
cook requires nothing but a camp-kettle, a frying-pan, and a few small
iron bars to place across the trench in which he makes his charcoal fire.
A gimlet is a useful substitute for nail; hook, and hammer ; inserted into
the wall, it forms a peg on which to hang light articles. The beit lanterns
are those in which either oil or candles can be burned ; they should have
good reflectors. Candles can be purchased in nil the larger towns. Mineral
oils from America and Baku are very largely used in the towns; the lamps
for these oils arc generally badly made. Table-cloths and sheets add to the
comfi>rt of the traveller.
Clothing. — Wearing apparel should be strong. It is not safe to dress
lightly, even in the warmest weather; for the nights are cold, and the
heavy dews dangerous. The natives, when travelling, drees almost as
Digitized by L^ooQle
[12] Introduction, — Outfit ; Arms; Clothing, Ac,
warmly in summer as in winter, because they want protection against the
burning sun as much as against the cold. Underclothing should
be taken in sufficient quantity to last for a month without washing.
Silk shirts made from native silk are easily washed, and take up little
room ; flannel shirts should be well shrunk ; a cholera belt next the skin,
or a sash, “ kammarband,” round the waist is a great protection against
chills and diarrhoea. A Norfolk jacket of stout tweed, with breeches and
buff riding-boots, or gaiters , is a good travelling dress ; a cardigan or blue
jersey is useful in spring and autumn, when the mornings and evenings are
cold; Indiarubber boots and long worsted stockings for winter travelling
in snow; stout slippers for camp. A good ulster and macintosh, with
hood, should be taken. Helmet of felt, purchased in England, is best, or
soft felt hat with broad brim, and puggari. Spectacles with green glasses,
or green veils, protect the eyes from the glare of the sun, and are a necessity
for winter travelling. Sleeping suit, Indiarubber collar, gauntlets, silk
pocket-han dkcr chiefs, mosquito netting, and looking-glass nro useful. An
umbrella is a protection from the rain and sun ; it should be of double silk
or cotton, white without, green inside. Umbrellas can be purchased at
Constantinople, Smyrna, and large towns in the interior.
Provisions. — Arrowroot is portable and convenient ; it may be prepared
in 5 min., and a basin of it will stay the appetite until dinner is ready,
usually, wheu tents have to be pitched, 1 J to 2 lire, after the halt. Whore
ovens exist and brown bread is baked it is usually very good ; white bread,
as provided in the larger towns, is tasteless and deficient iu nourishment ;
in the ruder districts unleavened bread, or “ dami^ra,” yufka % or yuk cl inch,
takes the place of bread. Biscuits, or the native peksemed, an excellent
substitute for them, should be carried in some places. Chocolate, nutri-
tious, portable, and prepared without difficulty. Cocoa and milk in tins
is good, but bulky. Coffee is sold in bazdr towns unroasted ; it is a luxury
that is often not found in villages, where an insipid herb is substituted for
the Mocha berry. Bice is essential ; it can be purchased in all baxAra,
but is often of very inferior quality ; large quantities should be purchased
whenever any that is good is found. In the villages a coarse preparation
of wheat, bulgur, generally takes its place. Semolina can be obtaiued at
8myraa, Kaisariyeh, Siva*, and other large towns ; a kind of porridge can be
ouickly made from it. Sugar and salt can be purchased in all bazAr towns.
Tea should be taken from England ; the compressed tea sold by Fortnum
and Mason is very good. Inferior tea can be obtained at Constantinople,
Smyrna, and large centres. It is the safest and most wholesome beverage
for the climate; cold tea carried in a flask or bottle is effectual in allaying
thirst. Old travellers often carry a small tea-pot, with a paper of tea and
a cup in their holsters, to that when they atop near a habitation they can
have a cup of tea at once. The use of wine and spirits should be avoided
aa far as practicable. Native wines and rdki, a kind of liqueur, will be
found in all the large towns in which there are Crocks or Armenians.
Macaroni, cheese, Harvey sauce, mustard, ]tep|>er, basket-salt, preserved
meats, portable soups, Liebig's extractum cam is, bams, tongues, Ac., are
useful when the amount of transport ia no object.
Milk ia difficult to procure in towns unless ordered beforehand, but is
plentiful iu all villages in the early morning or Into evening ; the native
custom is to boil it as soon as procured. Sheep’s milk is beat, after that
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction . — Outfit; Arms; Clothing, dc. f 13 j
buffalo’s, then goat’s; cow’s milk is poor, ns tho scanty postarego
seldom affords sufficient nourishment for the larger animal. Kaimak, a
palatable but rather indigestible form of Devonshire cream, is made in many
places. Yafert , a preparation of milk curdled with rennet, or herbs, or
more often with old yaurt , is to be obtained everywhere ; it is the staple
food of the villagers, and not unpalatable when cleanly made. Airan,
sour milk, acrid but wholesome as a drink in the heat of the day, can be
procured among the nomads and in most villages.
Beam, tomatoes and potatoes can be bought in most districts ; onions
and cucumbers everywhere. Fruit — grapes, melons, pomegranates, mul-
berries, apricots, apples, plums, and maize heads are exposed for sale in
season in all baz&rs ; and dried apricots and plums can be procured all tho
year round. Good honey and quince jam and jelly can be obtained in many
places. Fish is rare, though the mountain-streams are full of delicious
small trout. Butcher's meat can be bought on a bazdr- day ; or a lamb or
kid may be purchased for about a mejidleh. Fowls and eggs are cheap ; the
former skinny, tho latter often full-flavoured. If a native cook be taken,
the traveller will live on rice-pilaf, hotch-potch of vegetables with or
without scraps of meat, rice and milk, fowl soup, eggs in various forms,
fruit cooked and raw, yaflrt, tea and bread. In every town there are
Armenian or Greek bdkkals , grocers, who sell bread, cheese, onions, leeks,
su^ar, coffee, coarse salt, soap, oil, native pickles or torsh&n , pins, needles,
nails, string, lucifer matches, and a miscellaneous collection of English
imports, and German imitations of them.
In all the larger towns the traveller will meet with eating-houses where
fowls, mutton, lamb, keb&bs, Ac., can be procured. Kebab consists of
mutton, chopped small, with fat and herbs, roasted over a slow fire on
wooden skewers, and served up on thin cakes of bread. Fda/ t the favourite
Eastern dish, is composed of rice, with portions of meat. Dolma is a dish
of vegetables, stuffed with rice, mince, Ac. Sherbet is made by pouring
boiling water on fresh, dried, or preserved fruits. Eelva is a sweetstuff
prepared with sesame oil, and very unpalatable to strangers. Kataif is a
kind of vermicelli sweetened with honey. In towns, roasted and baked
meats may be obtained at noon, and often again at sunset. It is a good
plan to send a joint of meat to the public ovenman or furunji, to be roasted
at night and to be carried on for the next diy’s journey. Good living,
provided it bo not carried beyond the bounds of temperance, is essential to
enable the traveller to stand the fatigue of constant riding on horseback.
Saddlery. — A large English hunting-saddle , with plenty of Ds., is
best; the native saddle with stirrups lengthened is not uncomfortable.
Holsters , small saddle-bags , a thickly-padded saddle-cloth , bridle, bit , and
halter . The best bridle is the bush bridle, combining bridle and halted;
the native bit is very severe, and effectually stops bolters. Spurs are
essential unless the native iron stirrup is used ; an English crop and lash
is very useful for keeping a string of horses up to their work, and for
frightening off the formidable native dogs. Picketing-ropes are necessary,
and spare leather straps , for fastening macintosh or coat to the saddle.
For ladies a side-saddle is indispensable. Saddles are better purchased in
England ; they can nearly always be sold for their full price at the close of
a journey. Saddlers and shoeing-smiths are found in the large towns;
t but every traveller who uses his own horses should carry a few shoes
Digitized by ^.ooQle
[J4] Introduction^ Outfit ; Arm*; Clothing, do.
and nails in a bag, and have a servant or muleteer with him who can
shoe a horse at need.
, Vermin of every description abound in all parts of the East. The common
house fly stings perceptibly through a skin rendered tender by exposure to
the sun or by continuous perspiration ; and these flies swarm in every
country house. Mosguitoes on tie plateau of Asia Minor are small, and not
very numerous ; in tne lowlands near the coast they are almost unbearable
in summer. Fleas are everywhere; bugs are most numerous in the old
wooden houses iq the western districts ; lice are common in village houses
and public rooms ; and ticks are often found where animals have been lying
pear a village. A tent is the best preservative against all unwelcome visitors,
except flies and mosquitoes ; and to guard against these a funnel-shaped
mosquito net , or a muslin or net bag to go over the helmet or hat, is best. A
Levinge bag gives complete protection against vermin, but it takes up room
and is troublesome to manage. Keatinge's powder sprinkled on bed clothes
and under-clothing generally keeps off small insects. Lice are easily got
rid of by exposing blankets or clothes to the sun. A traveller compelled
to pass a night in the lowlands without his baggage will find the native
custom of plastering the face with mud, or making fires of dung, a great
protection against mosquitoes.
Water. — It is fairly safe to drink water almost anywhere in Asia
Minor : there may be danger in the shallow wells of a place like Konia
which has been inhabited for 3000 years, but most towns and villages aro
supplied from pure sources. In many places fountains are provided along
the wayside, ny charitable Turks. Water from marshy streams, or
suspected sources should be boiled before drinking; pyretic saline, or Eno's
fruit salt makes unpleasant water palatable. Horses should not be
allowed to drink from pools in which there are leeches. Travellers should
not drink too much water in the middle of the day. Rinsing out tho
mouth with water is quite as effective as driukiug for relieving the
sense of thirst.
Fuel. — Cliarcoal for cooking purposes can be obtained in all baz&rs;
in the hill country there is an abundance of wood, but on the plains uud
high plateaux the almost universal fuel is tezek, or cow dung dried in
cakes ; this makes an excellent cooking fire.
Sundries. — E bonite water bottle covered with felt, or covered soda-
water bottle, leather or lndiambber drinking cup , stout leather purse ,
field glass , compass , aneroid, thermometer, or maximum and uiiuimum
thermometer in case ; case of mathematical instruments, steel measuring
tape , box of colours, drawing paper, Ac. ; ink powder », indelible jtencils,
heelbaU for taking rubbings of inscriptions, squeeze j»af>er for taking jmjHfr
casts (tho unsized pajwr sold in the bazars does fairly well) ; brush and
sponge for the same purj)o&o.
Lettkus ok Introduction for the interior from merchants and persons
of standing in tho seaport towns aro very useful, for they admit tho
traveller to tho warm hospitality of the East, savo him from tho
necessity of occupying a filthy room at the khAn, and give him an insight
Into the home life of the people which ho could not otherwise obtain. But
he must not imagine that he may thus livo at tho exjieiise of the host by
whom he is kindly entertained. On the contrary, ho must reckon up the
expense incurred on his account, and the value of tho services rendered,
Digitized by C^ooQle
Introduction. — Expenses. * [ 15 ]
and make it up in the manner moet acceptable. HU host will generally
give him the opportunity to do so in a delicate way, and he must never fail
to give presents in money to the servants and attendants. A letter to a
Turkish official, unless from an intimate friend, or for some special purpose,
rarely meets with anything more than civility. , .
It persons have any special object of pursuit, such as archaeology or
numismatics, they should obtain introductions to the archaeologists of Con-,
stantinople, or numismatists of Smyrna, from their English brethren. , i
§ 7. EXPKN8K8.
Horse-hire for journeys of not more than 10 days comes to 14 to 2
mejidtehs a day per horse : this includes all charges for fodder, shoeing,
&c. For longer periods horses can be procured from f to 1 mejidieh a
day if three or four are hired from the same kiraji. An ardba or waggon
usually costs 2 to 8 mejidfehs a day, plus a bakhshish to the arabaji. In
almost all bargains a sum of money, partly as earnest, partly to defray
expenses before starting, is asked from the hirer, and usually p4id. It is
needless to say that kirajis or ardbajis ought not to be engaged without
the recommendation of some person of position, whether European or
native : nothing acts as so efficient a deterrent on a kiraji as the know-
ledge that the great man of his nativo village, or of some place whither his
business takes him frequently, will concern himself ultimately With any
quarrel between the hirer and the hired.
As to servants, an ordinary villager of fair intelligence should teceive
about T£2 a month to Act os general servant, engaged to ride With the
traveller whcrovor ho goes, to pitch and strike camp, and be goherally
useful For a cook T£2| is not too much, and it will often be nedessary
to give T£3 to secure a man who ktiows anything, and is handy at
preparing a dinner under difficulties. In all cases bakhshish is expected
in addition to the fixed wage, but an extra mejidieh or two will satisfy.
The kiraji (horse owner), in the hope of earning a little bakhshish, will
usually help in camp when needed, but arabajis cannot be relied upon to do
much. The men engaged should, if possible, be all Mussulmans. A party
of two will need a cook and a servant ; a party of three 6r more will probably
take an extra servant, Interpreters, or travelling servants speaking
French or English, must be paid at a special rate. The travelling dragoman ,
who takes charge of the travellers, body and soul, will probably demand
about T£2 to 3 a head per diem. If the traveller speak Greek, but no
Turkish, he can procure without difficulty, in almost any part, a double-
tongued Hellene to accompany him at a more moderate rate. In all cases
the traveller should remain in bis servants’ debt until the end of the journey.
Horses and servants once engaged, the expenses of living are insignificant
in the interior : fodder is already provided for if hired horses only art used ;
if, however, the traveller has bought his horses, he will have to pay for
barley, chopped straw and grass, a fe^r piastres a day per horse. It is
impossible to give definite figures, either for fodder or for provisions, in a
country where bargaining is invariable and prices vary infinitely: a sheep
for killing ought not to cost more than P. 25-45 : a fowl P. 3-5 :
eggs vary from 10 for P.l to P.l apiece; milk, fruit, vegetables, rice, are
very cheap. Incidental expenses are a small item : tips to guides, khanjis.
Digitized by L^ooQle
[16] Introduction. — Dragomans; Travelling Servants.
oda-bashis, occasional helper* and the like, will range from P.1-2 up to a
mejidleh. Experience hats ahown that the total expense of a journey of
two or three months in the interior of Asia Minor, inclusive of passage to
Smyrna and back to England, amounts to £1 15s. to £2 10s. a day for each
member of a party of three, equipped with tents, camp necessaries, light
baggage, and the normal number of servants. If nothing is reckoned
except the actual journey in Asia Minor, the cost per diem should not exceed
15 shillings to £1 a head. A party carrying a neavy load of cartridges or
tinned provisions, will need more pack animals than ordinary, and will
therefore find their journey somewhat more expensive.
| 8. Dragomans; Travelling Servants.
Dragomans.- — Everyone who acts as an interpreter is called a drago-
man, from the hotel tout who awaits the arrival of the trains and steamers
to the First Dragoman of an Embassy, who is an important political per-
sonage. Here we are only concerned with those who hire their services to
travellers — Travelling and Town Dragomans, or Valets de place. The
travelling dragoman furnishes everything for a contract price, and looks
after the hire of horses, tents, cooks, servants, and all that is requisite for
a journey. The town dragoman acts as a guide and interpreter in the
large towns.
Travelling dragomans are generally Greeks or Jews with little principle
or education, and great care is necessary in selecting one. In Constanti-
nople there are good, and, on the whole, trustworthy dragomans. They
are generally known by character to the consuls and bankers, who may be
consulted with advantage when it is intended to engage a man for a
journey. In Smyrna there is very little choice. All carry letters of
recommendation from former travellers, and it is sometimes well to de-
mand proof of identity. Dragomans have a smattering of many languages,
and a real knowledge of none, and they are often untruthful and ignorant.
A slight knowledge of Turkish, which is easily aoquired, yei\\ render the
traveller to some extent independent of his dragoman, and this may
occasionally be of importance.
Travelling Servants. — It is difficult to find a servant in England
who is capable of aoting as interpreter in Turkey. There are numbers of
travelling servants at Constantinople and Smyrna, but they are generally
worthless. A really useful and trustworthy servant cannot bo obtained
for 1 ess than T£10 per month. Only men who possess good testimonials,
and are acquainted with the dialects of the provinces to be visited, should
be engaged. For instance, a knowledge of Turkish and Greek is required
in W. Auatolia, and of Armenian and Kurdish in the eastern districts.
Italian will be found very useful in the Levant, And French is usually
spoken by the European residents and the higher Turkish officials. Ir.
the interior, meu of sufficient intelligence to act os geueral servants
and grooms cau be obtained for T£2-3 per month. Turks and Circassians
make the best grooms and general servants.
Digitized by L^ooQle
IntroduciiaiUr-^Sport. [17]
| 9. Sport in Asiatic Turkey (Syria BIcbmrd).
Except along the seaboard and in the mountains, game is scarce. The
shores of the Sea of Marmara, the Adana Plains, and the Bay of Ay as, are
the districts best known to sportsmen, and at the last place very good
mixed bags hare been made in the months of January, February, and
March, especially when there has been a hard winter in the interior.
Those of the inhabitants who have guns go in for shooting, but their
company in any numbers is not as a rule conducive to snort; In eomo
districts there is coursing and hawking. Strangers should bo careful of
trespassing, and should always be accompanied by someone speaking the
dialect when shooting.
English dogs will not live in Asid Minor for more than a season or two,
and good native dogs are difficult to procure, hut a dog is wanted for wood-
cock, quail, pheasant, and francolin shooting. The Persian greyhound is
used for coursing, but English ones are better. For shooting pig, the
boar-hound of the Balkans and Transylvania is useful. This dog, called
In French ehien conrant , by the Turks dv kieupeyi , is black and tan with
a little white, varying from 16 to 20 it), in heignt ;
The importation of rifles is forbidden, snd there is some difficulty in
passing guns through the Custom House. Cartridge cases must be empty.
Powder Is prohibited, being a Government monopoly, and that supplied is
very bad. Cartridge cases can be bought at Constantinople ahd Smyrna ;
]>owder, such as it is, and shot are for sale at most bazkrs, snd occasionally
smuggled English gunpowder.
Animals.
Jm, the wild (Yaban Eshck), is found in the Euphrates Valley south
of Birejik, near the Sinjar Hills, and on the Khabur river.
Bear , the brown (Ayi), is pretty general, but difficult to find owing
to the continuous extent of wild mountain country. It is most common
in the Pontic range, and in the bills round the Gulf of Mudania.
Beaver (Kunduz) is said to be on the Khabur river, but not. living in
colonies.
Boar , the wild (Yaban DomuzY, is found wherever the conditions arc
favourable («>. warmth, jungle, and marsh). It is scarce in the highlands
«»f the interior, but commou along the Mediterranean coast, especially in
the Macaoder Valley and in the Adana district Pig sticking is practi-
cable on the Adana plain ; but boar shooting, with dogs that give tongue,
is perhaps the best big game sport in A. Minor. The villagers are always
ready to assist the sportsman, as the boar do great damage to the crops;
hut they are bad beaters, and careless where they shoot when the qusrry
is on foot
C#if, the rjrty tabby wild (Yaban Kodi), is not uncommon in A. Minor
and Mesopotamia.
Chamoie (Kizil Gcchi) is occasionally seen in the Gurten district of
the Trebizond, and in the northern part of the Sivns VilAyet.
Deer , the fallow (Yamurcha), is found on the shores of the Sea of
Marmara (near Kara-bogha), near Mt. Ida, in tthodes, in the Lycian hill*,
\Tnrkey.'] d
Digitized by ^.ooQle
[18] Introduction . — Sport.
near Adalia, and round tho Gulf of Skander&n. It frequents Wooded or
scrub-covered hills.
Deer, ike red (Geyik, Mural, or Sughun), is met with in the wooded
mountains of the Ismid (near Sabnnja), Br&sa, and Aidin vil&yets, and
more rarely in the mountains of the Poutio range, Taurus, and Giaour
Dagh. It is also found near Diyadin and Bayezid, but is becoming rarer,
owing to the*dis foresting which is going on.
Deer , the . roe (Karaja or Elik), is fairly common in the Black Sea
forests and in some parts of the western vil&yets.
Fox (Tilki) is found everywhere, and can be coursed on good ground.
QaxcUe (Jeyr&n or Jeyl&n) frequent the Adana plains and Mesopotamia,
and often roam in large herds. An English greyhound can run them down
in sandy soil, but not if it be rocky. In some places the natives use a
falcon, which alights on the animal's head, and impedes its progress until
the greyhounds overtake it. They are also caught by driving, and may
bo stalked in low scrub-covered hills.
Hare (Tavshan) is generally found where the grouud is rocky or stony.
They are run down in winter with greyhounds, and are coursed on the
plains of Adana and Aleppo.
Hyaena (Sirtl&n) is found near Adana and Aleppo; and in Mesopotamia.
Ibex (Yaban Gee hi or Dagh Gechi) frequents the wild rocky peaks of
the Taurus, Anti-Taurus, and Giaour Dagh ; it is also found in Syria and
Crete, but is more common in Kurdistau, on the Turko- Persian frontier,
and in the Hakkiari and Bohtan districts. It is difficult to shoot except
in the autumn, when the early snows drive it down to tho upland pastures
as they are deserted by the nomads and their flocks. They are often met
with in late autumn as they migrate eastward from the mountains S. of
Lake Van ; and in winter they are found in herds in the Kotur district
Jackal (Chakal) is most numerous in the low warm coast lands of the
south, but is found everywhere.
leopard (Kaplan! A smaller animal, shorter in body and tail, than
the panther, is found in Arabistan and Mesopotamia, where it is occa-
sionally used for hunting gazelle.
Lion (Aslan, or Arslan) is found in Arabistan, Mesopotamia, the Eu-
phrates Valley, and in the lower part of the Kar&n Valley ; both varieties,
maned and maneless, are found, neither being numerous.
Lynx (Vashak) is occasionally met with in the same localities as the
panther and in the centre and N. of A. Minor. Near Smyrna, a small
graceful tree lynx is found.
Moufflon (Koch) is found in the Trebizond and Erzer&m vil&yets,
especially about Diyadin and Bayezid and further east.
Panther (Pars, or Kaplan) is occasionally found in the Taurus moun-
tains from Br&sa to Marash ; in the Giaour Dagh ; in the Bohtan ; and
in the wooded ranges near Amadia.
Sheep, wild (Yaban Koyun), of a tan colour are met with in the Kara-
manian district and Western Taurus.
Wolf (Kurt) is found everywhere, especially in Armenia and Kur-
distan, but it does not hunt in packs.
Badger (Barsak), Otter (Su Iti), Hedgehog (Kirpi), Porcupine (Oklu
Kirpi), Ichneumon (Nims), Stone Marten (Samsar), f Aee Marten (Zirda^a)
are found, the fur of the two last being much prized for export to Russia.
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[»]
Biuds.
, bustard (Tot) is found in large numbers in autumn, winter, and spring ,
on steppe-like lands.
JJutfard, theleuer (Mczmemleh), is widely distributed and found in;
the drier parts of alluvial plains. It is a migratory bird, appearing in
Kurdistan early in August, and moving west in the late- autumn and.
winter. Vast numbere are seen, packed, on the Adana plain in winter. : .
Francolin (Duraj) is fairly common in warm low land, particularly on
the 8. coast of A. Minor.
Partridge 9 the giant (Ur Keklik), is only found at high altitudes (pver
8000 ft.) in the Taurus, Anti-Taurus, Kurdistan, Bohtan and Hakkiari.
Rather larger than a blackcock, it is usually in pairs or single, and runs like
a red-leg, whose plumage it resembles. It is excellent eating. *
Partridge , grey (Chil Keklik). Found in tho Erzerum and Van
viliycta.
Partridge, red-legged (Keklik), abound on the rocky hills. Good bags
may be made in July and August with young birds; they run terribly
later.
Pelican (Saka-kushuV Not uncommon in summer round Brzer&m
and Van, and in the south during the winter.
Pheaeant (Suilun) is found near Ismid and in the deltas of spme of the
Black Sea rivers, but is nowhere numerous.
. . ^“^(Bildirjin).. 8pring and autumn flights, in moderate numbers,
visit the 8. coast of A. Minor. . In Syria and Arabistan they are sometimes '
hawked with merlins. .»
Snipe (Yelve-Rushu). Found round the marshes of the interior, in
September, desceud to tho lower grounds in winter, and large bags can lip
mado in February end March. .
Woodcock (Chulluk). Good bags can be made on the shores of the
Sea of Marmara, the Dardanelles, and Ayas Bay.
Wildfowl, are very numerous. Duck in every variety. Swans, geese,
herons, bitterns, plovers,, god wits, curlews, shanks, ibis, and other wading
birds are to be found in suitablo localities, the most-frequented resorts
being near Ayas Bay and the mouths of the Adana rivers, i •
* , FisitiHO. ,
The natives do not eat fish to any extent ; they occasionally poison tho
rivers to kill the fish, and sometimes use a cast-net 6r the spear, but tho
rod and fly are virtually unknown, and strangers must bring their owu
tackle.
i fr° m i to 1J lb. are found In most of the Asia Minor streams,
wherever the water is clear and cold, and they take the fly readily. In
some of the lower reaches 4-lb. trout have been caught. Trees on tho
Pontic streams interfere with fly-fishing, but excellent sport cab be had in
the Jihfln near Albistah; and in the streams that form
the head-waters of the Euphrates, A raxes, Choruk, and Tortum rivers,
lo several of the lakto near Erzerfltn trout are abundant.
Salmo/erox , or a similar fish, is said to be found So the mountain
lakes.
d 2
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[ 20 ]
Introduction. — History*
$ 10. History.
Asia Minor has been a thoroughfare for many conquerors, the abiding*
nlaoe of none, a debatable land on Which the armies of East and West
have fought, or marched towards continents beyond. Independent
powers, “Hittite," Phrygian, Lydian, Atom Within its borders and dis-
appeared again almost before the dawn of history ; the Greeks fringed
it *with colonies, and slowly extended their influence on the central
plAteau but lost more and more of their national character as they advanced.
The Persians held it weakly, the Romans strongly, but always as a pro-
vince- the Seljflk kingdom of Rftm or Konia was nominally subject to
the Grand Seljftk, and the Osmanli conquerors halted in the peninsula
only for a few generations. The geographical features of the country are
fatid to permanence; no great river affords a navigable highway; the
central plateau has few approaches, and in climate and character presents
so great a contrast to the coast that its history cannot but be different
To its geographical position Asia Minor owes the peculiar interest of its
history : placed between Europe and Asia, it has been tbe stage whereon
the long *war between the influences of the West and East has been
slowly waged with varying fortune. Of old the combatants were Greek
and Barbarian, and the Greek slowly prevailed, only to fall back little by
little before the Oriental influence which had crept into the heart of the
Byzantine Empire many years before the conquest of the capital by the
Osmanlis.
We can mark the beginning of the struggle in the dawn of history.
With the first light a people of non-Aryan stock is seen to bo spread over
Asia Minor, as well as 8.E. Europe. Nothing precise can be said as to
its origin, but something is known of its customs and religion. Prof.
W. M. Ramsay holds that the social system of this early race “ knew no
true marriage, and traced descent through the mother ; and corresponding
t6 this its religion acknowledged a mother goddess and her son.” This
great goddess descended from Phrygia to Greece in later days as Cybele,
and her son as Attis ; or as patroness of all fertility, animate and inanimate,
ahe became Artemis of Ephesus and Aphrodite of Paphos.
This non- Aryan race was spread over every comer of Asia Minor, and
was aot expelled wholly when the Aryan wave broke over the land from
the west. Consequently, in determining the ethuical character of the
ancient .races, known later as Carians, Lycians, Phrygians, Mysiana,
Lydians, and so forth, we must not attempt to prove one people wholly
Haroitic or Semitic and another wholly Aryan ; but must allow for a fusion
of blood, and look for its traces in art and customs.
The “ Hit tits*.” — Of the oldest period, that of non-Aryan races, we are
'begiuning to know something; foroue of these races, perhaps the dominant
ot:e, has risen Irom the dead in the last twenty years. This is a Cappa-
• docian race, the so-called “ Hittite” people, known to Herodotus (i. 72) at a
I later time, when no longer powerful or independent, as 44 White 8yrians, w
.and now sometimes called 44 Syrt>- Cappadocians.” On both sides of the
i Halve great rock-hewn cities were discovered early in the present century
'by Leake, Texier # and Hamilton ; in these cities were strange sculptures
ccnmpanied in some cases by stranger symbols in relief. The sculptures
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Introduction.— History. [21]
of Boghaz Kent and Buyuk east of the Halys were seen to be homogeneous ;
those of Qiaour-hdUsi and the city near the Midas . Tomb were to some
extent of the same type, bat recalled mainly western art. Other isolated
sculptures and symbols. in relief were seen by later travellers, notably at
Ivrtz in the Taurus Mountains near Eregli. ,
In 1872 casts of five inscriptions in relief, previously known but neg-
lected, were transported from Hamath, in N. Syria, to Europe by Dr.
William Wright, It was soon recognised that their character was similar
to that of the Ivriz inscription ; but only in 1879 were they connected by
Prof. A. H. Sayce .with other remains in Asia Minor. The fact, though
discovered late, is now certain. Since then it has been shown that on the
rocks of Boghaz Keal and Euyuk in northern Cappadocia are inscriptions
and sculptures identical in style with those of Hamath and Carcbemish,
while others are to be found on the lines of the great roads which radiated
from Boghaz Keni W. and S. ; such are the inscriptions and figures at
Giaour-kalesi in Galatia, and one example near the city above the Midas
Tomb in Phrygia. On the line of what was afterwards the “ Royal Rood ”
a similar text has been dug out of a mound a few miles west of the Tomb,
and another exists near the “ Niobe * on Sipylus above Smyrna. Near the
rock-cut figures in the pass of Kara-bel between Smyrna and Ephesus are
similar characters, and the English expeditions of 1890 and 1891 copied
others (some previously known; in Cappadocia at Bor (Tyana), Fraktin 9
Ourun , Bulgar-maden , and in the Anti-Taurus.
It is now held by many scholars that this system of writing was that
used by the people who loom so largo on Assyrian monuments as the
Khatti, on Egyptian as the Klieta, and in the Bible as the Hittites;
and that this peoplo was of Mongoloid race, and came into Syria from
the north through Commagene. It is possible that the authors of
the “ Hittite ” monuments baited in Cappadocia before they reached
Syria, and that Boghaz Keui (which may be the Fteria of Herodotus)
preceded Carchemish as a centre of their power; this necessarily throws
the people, which spread its strongly individualised art and writing
over so much of Asia Minor, back to a hoar antiquity. We need not
discuss here the vexed questions which beset this subject; we need
not assume that only one people used this system of writing, or that,
contrary to the tradition of Asia Minor and the influence of geographical
conditions, one great consolidated empire spread at any time over Anatolia
and Syria. These things may be true, but their truth or falsehood does
not affect the unquestioned fact that the lords of Boghaz Keui belonged in
the beginning to the pre-Aryan population ; theirs is the old art which
is slowly disappearing in the Phrygian cities before the Western invader ;
their religion is that which long survived in the great shrine of Comana
.with its goddess Ms, whose priestesses are perhaps the Amazons of Greek
legend. Though driven eastward over the Halys by the Aryan inroad,
this old power survived in vassalage to the Mesopotamian monarch s for
centuries, and was probably attacked by Croesus (Zfctt. L 76) iu the sixth
century. b.c.
i
The “ Royal Road," — The kings of Boghaz Keui left one legacy to after
times which has influenced the whole history of Asia Minor ; this legacy
vfM the great rood, afterwards known, yuder Persian rule, as the “ Royal
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[ 22 ] Introduction. — History.
Road.” It was first pointed out by Mr. Ramsay that the courso of this
road — which passed from 8ardis up the Hermus valley, and so to the
plateau of northern Phrygia, and thence through Galatia to the Halys,
which it crossed by a bridge (where was a custom-house) (see HdX.
v. 62 ff.)— is not only not the natural route eastwards (for that lies
unquestionably np the Maeander valley), but makes such ah extra-
ordinary (Utour to the N. into ]iarts of Asia Minor of no importance
in Persian times, that certainly it roust have been constructed when
a centre of power lay in northern Cappadocia; the Persians used it
for centuries simply because it was ready made. Such a centre was
Boghaz Keui, and tho road has now been traced past Giaour-kalesi and
tho Midas-city to the coast. There can be no doubt that when the
Persian posts travelled from the Euphrates to the sea they traversed a
road which in part hod been first laid out by Cappadocian princes.
When 'the Aryan influx from Europe began no man can say : its last
waves were rolling across the Hellespont and Aegean from the 12th to the
10th centuries before our era. It has left its mark on Greek tradition,
which consistently related that the Phrygians and Bithynians came from
Macedonia and Thrace ; it may be traced in the Carian worships which
survived in Attica and the Carian tombs at Delos, and perhaps in the
legendary struggle of Europe and Asia, which Homer sang. It penetrated
to Caria and Lyoia, carrying with it the cult of a supremo Father, who, in
some places, ousted tho Great Mother, in others was associated with her.
It seems to have driven the old races to some extent inland, and therefore
wo find their traces less on tho coast than iu tho highlands of Phrygia and
Lycaonia, more especially as oro this tho Orcoks wore bogi lining to colonise
tho burbours and islands of the Aegean and Euxino.
Phrygian Monarchy. — In Phrygia the new-comers leavened the older
population, infused an element of progress and power, and developed the
great feiqgdom of which legends ponpccted with tho names of Atcs, Midas,
and Gordius have been preserved by the Greeks. To this period belong
the rock cities of Qiaour-kalesi , and those pear tho Midas and Lion
Tombs, and tbs monuments near them, varying from the rnoro primitive
at Giaour-kalesi to the splendid rampant heraldic lionesses and the
WArriors three miles from Ayas Jn, Tho Phrygian kings, as Mr. Ramsay
says, before the rise of Lydia “ bulked more improssivoly in the Greek
mind than any 1 other non-Greek monarchy”; they were in closo inter-
course with Cymae, and probably other Greek cities, and through them
with Argos ; hence perhaps came the Phrygian lionesses which guard the
gate of Mycenae. We may safely infor that tho power of tlieao kings
reached across the Saug&rius to Gordium on the N., and was bounded by
the Halys on the E. ; southwards we find a son of Midas ruling at Celaenae,
and on the west jicrhaps Mi. Dindymus divided them from the yet feeble
Lydians.
In the 8th century u.o. Asia Minor was suddenly visited by a northern
horde, pressed southwards by some movement iu Northorn Europe. These
invaders the Greeks called Cimmerians ; and it was their agency which
broke the Phrygian power. After disappearing again for a century, the
northern scourge returned and early in tho 7th century swept westward
over Anatolia us fur as Sardis. Tho last Midas of Phrygia ]>oisoned him-
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Introduction.-^Hislory* [23]
self with bull's blood, and his kingdom was left, when the Cimmerians
departed, a prey to the rising power of Lydia. -*• » .
Lydia. — The rich valley of the Hcrmus had been the centre of a
monarchy for some centuries: and Herodotus fills up its hixtory with
two mythical dynasties. It is probable, however, that the early kings
owed alhgiance to stronger |K>wers inland, i>erhap8 at the lost to Phrygia,
and it is not until the reign of Gygus, the first of the Mennnadae
(716 b.o. ?), that Lydia begins to play an independent | fart in history.
Gyges' son and grandson barely weathered the second Cimmerian storm ;
and left to Alyattes (617) the task of expelling the invader and making
an Empire. The last must have extended his power over Phrygia, for
ho made war on the Modes, and he was the first inland monarch to cause
serious danger to the Greek cities on the coast. ; Lydia lay so near to the
Greeks that her history interwove itself with theirs, and has found Greek
chroniclers : the last and greatest Lydian king, Croesus (560), entertained
Solon, patronised Delphi, and tried to ally himself with the power** of
freo Hellas. Hut Asia Minor was not yet ripe for Hollenio civilisation,
and the luxurious Lydian was no matoli lor the mountaineers of Central
Asia, when, like the Turkomans later, they found a leader, and Bwept
into the rich countries of the west. Cyrus the Persian was such a leader,
and with his capture of Sardis (646) the history of native Empires in
Asia Minor is closed for at least two centuries.
So thoroughly did the conqueror and his immediate successors do their
work that it may almost be said that for 200 years the interior of Asia
Minor had no history. All intorcst centres in tho fringe of Greek cities
which had boon lounded during the past 600 years on every bay aud
islaud round the coasts.
Greek Colonies. — By these wonderful colonies, now for the most part
at the zenith of their prosperity, or, like Colophon , even already declining;
the superiority of Greek ideas and Greek culture to any pre-existent
civilization was powerfully demonstrated. The orginal settlers bad come,
as the Greeks thcinsolvcs believed, from the mainland of Hellas, bringing
with them, freed from all class traditions and party feuds,, that essential
political idea of self-subordination to the good of ; the whole, which dis-
tinguished the Greek from the barbarian. They ’seized the coast at a
time when there was no strong native power to hinder the development
of cities, which, founded by men in whom the essence of organisation
was innate, sprang almost full-grown from their birth. Situated on
carefully selected sites, and commanding the unique series of harbours
with which western Asia Minor is indents, they became the natural marts
wherein the wealth of east and west changed bands. Their rapid rise
to a pitch of splendour far outstripping the mother-cities of Hellas is
one of the most striking things in history.
Miletus peopled the shores of the Euxine, and, herself a colony,
founded daughters like Sinope, which became mothers in their turn.
Her fleets and those of Samos swept the Aegean before an Athenian
navy had been dreamed of. From Ionia philosophy and the fine arts
passed into Hellas ; and the alphabet which finally ousted local varieties
from Greece was the Ionian. It is impossible to fix the date or circum-
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[ 24 ] Introduction, — Hutory.
stances of the foundation of the Hellenic cities of Asia Minor. The Greek
historians of late ages believed that the north of the west country was*
peopled by Aeolian settlers from northern Greece, the centre by Ioniaus
from Attics, the south by Dorians from the Peloponnese. We may
aocept the general truth that there was an immigration from Europe into
western Anatolia, and not be too precise as to its sources. This at least
is certain, that by the 8th century n.c., when Lydia was still an infant
power, the greatest cities of after times, Miletus, Ephesus, 8myma,
Colophon, Erythrae, Cymae, Halicarnassus, Phocaea, and many others
were already great, rivalled the splendour of Sidon and Tyre, and had
driven the fleets of the latter off the Aegean.
Yet their history is not that of Asia Minor: they looked outwards,
seawards, remained distiuct from the inner land, and knew almost nothing
of its natural features, its peoples, or its monuments. There is no more
striking example of the influence of geographical conditions on the
history of a couutry than the separation for centuries of the coast from
the interior of Asia Minor. Except Magnesia on the Maeauder every Greek
city was within sight of the sea: and Greek influence ceased with the
sea-breeze. We can perceive traces of the commerce of Cymae, Sinope,
aod Miletus with the interior : the Phrygian alphabet, for example, was
almost exclusively owed to Greece; and perhaps on the later rock-
monuments Greek influence may be traced. But race, language, re-
ligion, customs remained distinct, surviving the growth of the Greek
cities, surviving Athenian influence, surviving the llellenising efforts of
Alexander and his successors, surviving almost the Homan domination.
It may be said indeed that the interior influenced the coast more than
the coast the interior. Certainly the great Goddess of the Phrygian
mountains became at Smyrna the Sipylene Mother, and at Ephesus
Artemis of the Many Breasts was worshipped with rites more Oriental
than Greek. The tide still set westward, and the lower civilisation of
the East flowed into the [Hirer waters of the West, so fur as ono
mingled with the othor at all. The Greek cults adopted an orgiastic
ritual : strange deities like Cybele and Sabazius passed through the coast
cities and across the Aegean : and intermarriage and intercourse with
Lydia and Phrygia, corrupting the pure Greek stock, weakened the
influence of the Greek political ideal, until in the Ionian revolt which
marked the close of the Gth century n.c. the Greeks of Asia were
incapable of meeting on land those Persian armies which n few years
later their kinsmen in Europe were to shatter at Marathon and Platocn.
There remained, however, enough of tho Greek spirit in the Asiatic
colonies to keep them hojielessly disunited, each in its territory self-
centred, jealous, avenie even to temporary combination against a common
foe, and incajiable of rising above commercial ambitiou. The traditional
rivalry of Miletus and Samos, which may be traced from the earliest to
the latest times, from the war between Ghalcis and Eretria to the
Macedonian conquest, is a well-known example of the intestine antago-
nism which kept the colonies always weak, made it impossible for them
to found an Empire in the interior, and handed them over a prey first
to Lydia and then to Persia. 1
OooQsest ky Lydia (680 n.c.),— rWhen 'Croesus had established tho
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Introduction. — History. [ 26 ]
Lydian power as far as the Halys he cast himself upon these rich cities
of the West : for the first time a strong native power pressed upon the
luxurious Greeks, enervated by the climate, and demoralised by the
pursuit of wealth. The Ionian cities fell one by one, refusing to combine,
Ephesus first and then all the rest, and the Lydian would have subdued
even the islands, had Cyrus not appeared upon the scene, and, after
defeating Croesus, seized Sardis and its king.
Oonquest by Persia (646 ?). — The collapse of the Lydian Empire offered
a chance of freedom to the Greek Colonies. • They prepared to assert
themselves against the Persian ; but the old rock of intestine jealousy
was still in their way, and once more they split upon it. Miletus deserted
the common cause and made her own terms with Cyrus. Abandoned and
disunited, the rest fell a prey to his vengeance, and submitted to become
appendages of Persia under tyrannical rule. Only the Phocaeans and
leans refused to live in bondage, and, taking to their ships, sailed away
to found new homes across the sea.
Persian rule. — Thus all Asia Minor became part of the Persian Empire,
aud for a few years the currents of its history mingle in one stream. The
peninsula was portioned by Darius Hystaspes into four provinces, each
under a satrap : the western or maritime districts from the Gulf
of Adramyttium to the confines of Cilicia formed the first satrapy,,
corresponding roughly to the modem vil&yet of Aidin : the second;
satrapy was practically the old kingdom of Lydia: the third, the largest
but least wealthy, embraced all northern and central Asia Minor,
from Lydia to Armenia, and Taurus to the sea; it included fivo
modem vil&yets, Karasi, Konia, Angora, Sivas and Kastamfini : the fourth
comprised Cilicia, the modem vilftyet of Adana, and part of Aleppo. - In
common with all outlying provinces of the Persian Empire, Asia Minor
was held but weakly by the kings of Susa, and in no sense transformed
by the influence of the conqueror: the Greek cities remained Greek
cities, under Greek governors, supported rather than directed by the
satraps : the tribes of the interior retained in many cases, e.g. in Caris,
Cilicia, Phrygia, aod Bitbynia, native princes and priest-dynasts, recog-
nising the suzerainty of the Great King and paying tribute, whenever
the satraps were not at war among themselves or the central power was
in vigorous hands. The satraps themselves, placed as they were at a
great distance from Susa, responsible for little more than the regular
payment of tribute and unchecked by a bureaucracy, often assumed
semi-independence unremarked and unhindered, or like Oroetes of Lydia
maintained themselves for years in oi)en revolt. The Persians conquered,
but evolved no true imperial system ; and the Great King was always
an autocrat,' trying to govern directly in defiance of time and space.
Asia Minor remained part of his Empire, because it was a mere agglomera-
tion of potty peoples and unwarlike cities; at the first attack of an
organised power the Persian hold gave way, and we now look almost in
vain for any monuments of the presence of a people who nominally
possessed the peninsula for over 200 years.
Weak and disorganised though it was, the Persian Empire was strong
enough to repress any attempts at revolt in Asia Minor so long a s no
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[26] Introduction. — History.
external power intervened. Divide et impera was tho motto of Darius as
well as of Augustus. Under the “Medizing” tyrants, each Greek city
was divided against itself and against every other, and commercial jealousy
thwarted all attempts at combination. One great effort was made at the
close of the 6th century. Incited by the tyrant of Miletus, the cities
and islands of the west coast for a moment forgot their rivalries, and com-
bined in what is known to history as the Ionian Bevolt. From the very
first the enterprise was doomed to failure on the mainland : the Persiaus
at once invested Miletus, and beyond one solitary raid on Sardis, under-
taken with the assistance of a small Athenian force, the Ionia ns hardly
gained the smallest advantage on land during the three years that the
rebellion lasted* On sea the prospect was brighter ; the combined fleets of
Chios and Samos alone proved more than a match for any navy that tho
Persians could call out from the Phoenician ports ; and there can be littlo
doubt that the islands might have made good their deliverance, whatever
fate was to befall Miletus and the cities of the mainland. But in a moment
of inaction tho old jealousies awoke ; the Chians, distinguished throughout
Greok history for their readiness to prefer their own interests to tho
common cause, turned traitors when the decisive moment arrived in the
sea-fight of Lade, and the defeat which followed this defection crushed
the Ionian Revolt (600 b.o»). Miletus, deserted by those whom she had
hersolf deserted fifty years beforo, hold out for a few months, and then
paid a penalty so dreadful that it was long remembored throughout
Groece. •
So far tho East had won ; tho tide, setting from Central Asia, had flowed
up to the western limits of the continent, and swamped the outposts of
western civilisation. It had crossed the Bosporus, and would do so
again. What was to hinder it from overflowing Europe as well as Asia ?
So men must have thought in the beginning of the 5th century b.c.,
reflecting that up to that time the stream of human migration had flowed
slowly but irresistibly into the land of the setting sun : it seemed to be
ordained that the West should serve the East. But we, looking back, know
now that the tide had already reached its height, and was to ebb for over
a thousand years. Their relation to this great v/orld-strugglo gives to the
battles of Marathon, Salamis, and Plataea their tremendous importance
in universal history: the expeditions of Datis and Artaphernes and of
Xerxes into Europe were the last waves of a tide which had been rolling
forward since history began ; and thus the decado 400-480 n.c., which
saw the Persians, • who had crushed the great mercantile cities of Asia
Minor and the islands, rolled back by the determination and courage of
a little people of western Europe, forms an epoch in the world's history
to be equalled in importance only by the eras of Christianity and Isl&m.
Athenian Empire. — Asia Minor naturally was the first to feel the turning
tide, and with the beginning of this ebb the Greek cities were left high
and dry once more ; some of the vitality which they had lost was breathed
into them once more by Athens ; and from Sinope to Phaselis they were
combined into a league, under the pressure of a power too vigorous to
regard their petty strifes and jealousies. Not that such strifes and
jealousies ceased to exist: had they done so, the history of Asia Minor
would have been different ; for such states as Miletus, Mitylene, Chios,
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Introduction.— Hirtorij. :[27]
Samos, Rhodes, iii combination, might hav6 maintained their freedom
against Persia on the one side and Athens on the other \ bnt though never
contented, and always ready to revolt, the Greek Cities continued to
maintain democracies favourable to Athens, to supply ships to hdr navy,
and to p Ay her an annual tribute almost without intermission down to 412,
the year of the disaster which befell Athens in Sicily, and in' some cases,
e.g. Samos, till 404, when the Empire suddenly collapsed, owing to the
destruction of the Athenian fleet at Aegospotami. ' In faot it may be Said
that, with the exception of the grfeat island of Rhodes, and the city of
Cyzicns, the Greek colonies of Asia ' Minor never again attained complete
independence; the half-orgAnised Empire-League of Athens only fell, to be
immediately succeeded by the stronger imperial Bystem of Sparta. When
that in turn fell to pieces after only ten years (304), thanks to trouble* at
home, the Persians once more asserted their authority' over the coast, and,
sometimes paying tribute to Persia, sometimes to Athens, whose empire
was partially reconstituted after the 'battle of Cnidus (394), for some
sixty years the Greek cities steadily declined, until Alexander the Great
swept them, together with half Asia, into his net (334). It is true
that we And one attempt to form an autohomoUs league among themjtho
short-lived union of Cos, Chios, Rhodes, and Byzantium, which was the
cause Of the “ Social War ” (357 b.c.) and of the ruin Of the second Athenian
empire; but, though these states tnade good their position against Athene,
they soon fell again — the islands under Persian influence, Byzantium
under Macedonian, f and only Rhodes attained again to the dignity of An
independent power. , n
, »• 4 . * 1 ‘ ; it* •• ..»• ■ • ■ r • 1: •!• !
Status of the Greek’ Cities.— It must not be supposed, however, that
the Greek cities, while forming part of the “empire ” of Athens or Sparta,
or Oven when dominated by Persian influence, Were in any state of servilo
subjection; indeed, during a great part of the 5th and 4th centuries they
enjoyed complete “Autonomy,” as the contemporary Greeks understood
that word— that is to sAy, they elected their own magistrates, lived
under their own constitutions and laws, coiried their own ! money, arid
in some cases, such as Chios, Lesbos, and Barrios, maintained fleets of
their own. Formed ns they wore at first into A free and icqnal con-
federacy for defence Against the Persians, with A synod and a common
treasury at Delos, they were seldom compelled by Athens; after she had
transferred the treasury to herself and assumed the right to crimm and the
services of the confederate cities fot her own purposes, td receive any
resident or garrison ; she expected them to maintain a democratic form of
constitution favourable to herself, to have the same friends' and enemieA,
and id continue to nay for her benefit what they had originally contributed
for the common defence against Persia. Until finite lato in the period of
her first empire; we know of no instances of her using force to compel
adherence to her League, though she assumed the right to' punish at*
serters, such As K axofe (465) orMitylene (428). Some of the Asiatic cities
appeAr never to hAve Acceded to her empire at all — for example, SmyntA
f The earlier tone of Chios, Ephesus, Erythrae, and Rhodes ml&bt be brought forward si
another iSaUnoe ; but that union was formed under the protection of Athena, and proved the
nucleus of her aeoond empire. For. similar reasons various temporary alliances in the totter
years of the lYtopomteston war need not br tofceb Into icconht. 1 '
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[28] Introduction,— History.
and the two Magnesias ; yet we hear of no measures being taken against
them. In a few places where disaffection existed, colonists or “cleruchs *
.were planted by Athens to serve as a sort of garrison ; but the indignation
which- this comparatively mild measure-r-rarely resorted to — excited among
.the cities, sufficiently shows how light the yoke really was. Yet that yoke
was as much detested as if it had pressed with all the weight of an Oriental
despotism, and no opportunity of revolt was allowed to pass ; the explan a*-
tion is probably to be found partly in the old intestine jealousies of the
cities themselves. Samos hated to be forced, however gently, to stand
side by side with Miletus; and the other cities followed suit. The
mild Athenian imperial system, if system it may he called, while just
thwarting that desire for absolute civic independence which all Greeks felt,
left the cities so far masters of themselves, that civic life subsisted in all
its intensity, with all its prejudices and jealousies, as vividly as ever. Add
to this, that Athens conferred few or no benefits upon her subject allies,
either in the way of commerce or protection, to compensate for the loss of
complete independence.
Spartan Empire. — Sparta did no more when she succeeded to the position
of Athens (404 n.o.), and she laid a far heavier yoke upon the cities, estab-
lishing in each a Spartan governor, or “ harmost,” and a council pledged
to govern in her interests. For the first time we find a Greek State
attempting to organise a centralized empire by means of a civil service
and military occupation; but, just because the rule of Sparta was
stronger, so it was less unpopular among the ruled than that of Athens ;
for the ruled were more than half Orientals. Sparta was not loved,
indeed, by her equals or inferiors in Greece itself, and scandalous tales
have been put on record of the conduct of her civil servants in the subject
cities— tales which some modem historians have accepted at more than
their true value ; but if the cordial attitude of the Ionian cities towards
Dercyllidaa and Agesilaus is to count for anything, it will go far to
S rove that Spartan domination was welcomed by the colonies of Asia
[inor. When Athens regained some of her influence after the destruction
of the Spartan fleet at Cnidus (394), she evidently had to overcome the
strongest jealousy of her leadership; the latter was only accepted by the
seventy cities, who formed her Second Empire, on clearly defined con-
ditions (which have been preserved to us by a contemporary inscription),
and as soon as Athens attempted to encroach upon those, her leading
“ allies " at once proclaimed against her the Social War (357). It should
be remarked that this second Athenian Empire embraced few, if auy, of
the cities of the mainland, then subject to Persia.
We have anticipated, however, a century of history : returning to the
years immediately succeeding Plataea, we find that with the liberation of
the Greek cities of western Asia Minor from the Persian, Athens rested
content. After the first onslaughts on the barbarian at the Eurymedon
^ and in Egypt (460), she soon relinquished the idea of pushing
&r back the ebbing tide of Oriental power, and about 445 openly
accepted the status quo as final. The Great King abandoned the Greek
colonies west of Pamphylia, and Athens on her side ceased to molest his
inland or Levantine possessions. During the latter part of the Pelopon-
nesian War (412-404) h$ fxtorftd frpm fa necessities of At apd tfcp
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[ 20 ]
Cdfflplaisftnde of the Spartans a lsrge share of his fontofcf dointoiott over
the mainland towns. * But the Greek retreat was only as the reooiling of a
wave, which is to be succeeded by another and a greater; the tide had
definitely turned, and was destined to flow far into the East through the
channel of Asia Minor. The second wave advanced in 402, in the shape
of the expedition of Cyrus and his Ten Thousand Greeks into the heart
of Asia. '*
the Ten Thousand Cheeks. — In the history of the struggle of ESst and
West, it is unnecessary to emphasize the place that is filled by Cyrus’
famous march, which pierced the veil of mystery that had so long
shrouded the Great King, and for seventy years set all advehturous spirits —
Agesilaus, Jason of Pherae, Philip, and Alexander — dreaming of the con-
quest of Persia. In the narrower sphere of Anatolian history, it has a
special importance too ; firstly, because it showed the world that through
Asia Minor lay the way to the East— n way not coinciding with the
devious and difficult Royal Road, but following the course of the MaeandeT,
And then crossing the hills to the broad valley of Phrygia Paroreus, and
(he Great Plains that efctend to the Cijician Gated ; secondly, because the
preliminaries and conduct of Cyrus’ expedition throw so much- light on
the normal condition of Asia Minor under its Persian lords. We see
the King's brother, Cyrus, supported in his satrapy by Greek swords}
collecting tnercenary trpbps, and {dotting revolt almost unsuspected by
the distant Court; making, war on a brother satrap, unheeded and un-
checked. The interior of the country is only half conquered ; the Pisidian
mountaineers constantly annoy the Persian* governors ; the queen of Cilicia
’ is a free agent, acting independently.' Cyrus marched 1 right through
Asia Minor, reviews his troops at Tyriaeum (ltghin), and ^receives the
Cilician queen, without meeting any to question him, a toy opponent id
the field or the passes. 1 '
The advance of the Greeks to Gutoaxa, and their extraordinary retreat td
the Black Sea, lie outside the history of Asia Minor ; but, after their return
from Trebizond to Byzantium, they were destined to play a further part
In those campaigns against the satraps which Sparta organized under
Thimbron, Dercyllidas, and King Agesilaus during the first six years of
the 4th century — campaigns which resembled * the small and gradually
subsiding waves ' that follow in the wftke'.of a greater. ; For : the. first
time since the Athenians had marched to Sardis in 500 b.c. a Greek army
dared to penetrate into the interior of Asia Minor, to ravage the Maeander
valley up td Trailed (Aidin), and bum the Suburbs of Sardis— a forewarn-
ing that the peoples of the West were gradually learning their own Strength
and the Persian weakness. If the Corinthian War had not broken out in
Greece in 395, it is probable that Agesilaus would not long have delayed
an attempt to realize his great ambition of being the conqueror of Susa,
find that the remains of the Ten Thousand, reinforced by the fine army
which the Spartan king so assiduously trained in Ephesus during the
winter of 395, might have marched once more, into Central Asia, and left
nothing fOr Alexander to dp. ; t
’ However it waft hot to be: the “ninth wave” was not to roll over
Asia Minor for another sixty years, nor to come frotn Greece itself at all:
A student of the history of the 4th century might almost maintain
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[80] Inirp4fic<ion.— - BUtotf/,
that the Great King won the battle as against the Greeks: for such was
the effect of the intestine dissensions of Thebes, Sparta, and Athens,
that Persian rule was re-established in almost all the , mainland towns of
Asia Minor after 404, and recognized by the Peace Antalcida $ (387);
while Persian gold and Persian mandates penetrated , even into .Greece
itself. But the empire was rotten to , the core, and nowhere more rotten
than in Asia Minor; already in the decade 420-410, the interior had
maintained itself in revolt for years against Darius No thus and his
geoeral Tissaphernes ; the attempt of Cyrus disturbed the country again ;
and finally, about 366, the Anatolian provinces, which had been slipping
from the feeble hands of Artaxerxes, brpke into a rebellion, from whose
effeoU the power of the Achaemenidae never recovered.
Alexander the Great.— The term of Persian rule was approaching : in
the north-west a wave was already gathering unobserved. The rising
state of Macedon was being constituted into the first “ Power” — as we
understand the word — that had been seen in Europe. Far more unified,
more vigorous, and better organized than the enfeebled cities of Greece, it
sought to be accounted Hellenic, and yet to reconcile Hellenes to tyranny
by identifying itself with a national aspiration. Philip lost not a moment,
after he had crushed Greek independence at Chaeronea (338), in being
proclaimed general of the Greeks against the Persians, and even sent his
vanguard into Asia Minor immediately before his assassination (336);
Alexander, his son, both from motives of policy and of ; inclination,
accepted the obligation to make war on Persia, at the same time as he
received the crown. In 334 be crossed the Hellespont: the Persians
knew neither the quality of the military machine which Philip had
created, nor the genius of the man who now directed it, and made no
adequate provision to meet him. All know with what appalling celerity
the rotten empire of Darius collapsed : in less than a year Alexander had
crushed at Granicus the only Persian army that could be collected in
Asia Minor, received the submission of the Hellespont, Lydia, Ionia and
Garia, carried by assault the fortresses of Miletus and Halicarnassus,
conquered mountaineers whom Persia had never subdued, traversed the
interior from Lycia to Gordium and Gordium to the Cilician gates, and
paiisod out of Asia Minor, leaving it his own from the Halys to the sea.
Truly an astonishing series of events, but one whoso bearing on the
history of the conouered provinces, and especially Asia Minor, it is easy
to exaggerate. To say that Alexander and his successors hellenized
Western Asia is to convey a very false impression. It is true that after
the lapse of not less than two centuries the influence of Groek culture
may bo traood among the upper classes of natives in the interior, and the
Greek language began to be the fashionable or literary speech ; but the
traveller of to-day seeks almost in vain in the interior of Asia Minor for
any Greek inscription or other evidence of hellenization among the
monuments of the period preceding the first century before our era.
Cities were founded with Greek names, but they contained hardly a
single Greek ; Greek-speaking princes and governors ruled in the interior,
but their subjects spoke native dialects, ana only after many years began
to assimilate the deities of their masters to their own.
In fact the change of master brought at first little further change to
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Introduction . — History, [ 81 ]
Asia Minor ; almost everywhere Alexander accepted the organisation which
he found. The Greek cities remained tranquil in the possession of that
semi-autonomy which they had enjoyed with rare interruptions f6r two
centuries or more: Ephesus, for example, continued to issue its auto-
nomous coinage till 295. The old satrapies received new governors, in
one case a Persian ; dependent princes like Ariarathes of Cappadocia and
Ada of Caria remained dependent princes under Macedon ; one satrap,
Antigomui the One-eyed, received general jurisdiction over the rest, such
as the Karanos had exercised formerly under the Great King. We hear
of no novelties in civil organisation in Asia Minor ; but what a new life
must have been breathed into the old system when it centred round
Alexander instead of Darius I
It is the year 323, in which Alexander died, and not 334, that marks an
important era in the history of Asia Minor. From the invasion of Cyrus
in 547 to the day when the greatest Macedonian lay dead in Babylon,
the history of Western Asia is continuous: Alexander was in fact the
last Great King.
The Dimdoohi — Henceforward until the advent of Home, the great
empire which had hung together, now firmly, now loosely, for two
centuries and a half, resolves itself into a chaos of warring atoms.
Almost instantly upon the withdrawal of the strong central power,
geographical influence reasserted a power which had constantly been
showing itself under the weaker Persian monarch*, though repressed
by the stronger, and split the empire into many parts. Most con-
spicuously was this influence operative In Asia Minor, where uniformity
and permanence are most contrary to naturo. None of Alexanders
successors, not even Seleucus, succeeded in establishing a single rule,
either real or nominal, over the whole peninsula. ’ While Eumenes of
Cardia, the best and bravest of all the co-heirs, struggled after his
master’s death for seven doubtful years with Antigonus for the lordship
of the interior, the Greek cities of the coast detached themselves as of
old. Some of the greater city states, such as Rhodes and Cyzicus, soon
won for themselves independence : Smyrna, Mitylcne, Samos and others
became dependent on the Ptolemies of Egypt, and under the protectioh
of their easy suzerainty formed themselves in the early part of the third
century into a kind of league headed by Rhodes, and for the first time in
their history remained united for more than a century, and defended
their common rights against all the kings.
Neither Antigonus, when he had finally compassed the defeat and
death of Eumenes (31B), nor Seleucus and Lysimachus when they had
defeated and killed Antigonus in his turn at Ip$u$ (301), nor yet
Seleucus alone after he had disposed of his former ally at the battle of the
Plain of Coro s (281), were strong enough to override completely the
natural tendency to the formation of small states in Asia Minor, as Cyrus
and Alexander had done. Had Seleucus not been assassinated (280) so
soon after the victory of Coros, which had left Asia at his feet, he might
have become Great King, and united all Asia Minor into a province of
his empire ; but when the dagger of Ptolemy Ceraunus had removed tho
last man canabte of fitting upon his shoulders the mantle of Alexander,
the feebler Selenci and Antiochi who succeeded asserted no such absolute
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[ 82 ] Introduction . — History.
authority over the north and west (though Sardis was a royal refcldende
and certain of the Ionian cities were tributary), until Rome drove them
back beyond the Taurus.
In the absence of a strong over-lord, various states, independent and
semi-independen t, were developed in the north and west of Asia Minor ;
and these give a character and interest to its history during the century
that succeeded the death of Seloucus and preceded the advance of
Rome, whioh is lacking both while it was a mere disordered appanage of
Susa, and when later it was merged in the vast uniformity of the Roman
Empire. We have already alluded to the “ Hanseatic League ” (as
Mommsen calls it) of the great Greek colonies, a phenomenon in Hellenic
history no less interesting than singular. It extended at its acme right
round the coast from Pnaseli* to Sinope, under the nominal patronage
of Egypt and the real protection of Rhodes, who in her growth, after
she had expelled her Macedonian garrison on Alexander’s death, into a
great maritime Republic, the refuge of the arts and of letters, the
protagonist of the west against the east, anticipated the history of
Venice. She fought with equal sturdiness against Philip V. of Macedon
and Antioch us the Great of Syria; exacted alliance from the kings of
Pergamum, and respectful treatment even at the hands of Rome after the
.battle of Magnesia (191) had placed the East at the latter’s mercy.
Perframmn. — Hardly less interesting was the kingdom, which arose at
Pergamus in Mysia, and corresponded, when at the height of its power,
to the old kingdom of Lydia. Founded in 283 by the craft of a diplo-
matic chamberlain of King Lysimaclius, who was too much occupiod in
his last contest with Seleucus to call a rebellious servant to account, the
Pergamene house produced a succession of astute princes, who acquired
and maintained their power by identifying themselves with Hellenism as
against the Orientalism of the Seleucids, or the barbarism of the Celtic
hordes who swept over Asia Minor to the great discomfort and detriment
of the old inhabitants.
From about the year 280 onwards, the first king, Philetaerus, was
content with maintaining and consolidating in obscurity the power he
had usurped ; but his successor, Eumenes I., asserted his position openly
against Antioclius of Syria, while tho third king, Atialus 1., earned the
gratitude of all Asia Minor by smiting the Gauls hip and thigh in a great
battle ; . he commemorated his victory by a celebrated inouument at
Athens, of which the “ Dying Gauls” in various museums— e.g,, those at
Naples, and the Capitoline Museum at Rome — are reminiscences. Under
these enlightened kings Pergamum vied with Rhodes in sheltering aud
encouraging tho arts and letters, and the once obscure town on the Asian
coast has given its name alike to a school of sculpture, of which a
splendid memorial — the greater part of the frieze of the Altar erected
by the fourth king, Eumenes II. (197-159) — has been discovered at
Pergamum and taken to Berlin, and to a material — “ pergament ” or
parchment — used for books. Furthermore, both Pergamum and Rhodes
were largely instrumental in the introduction of art into Italy, and so to
to the whole West, through their close union with Rome.
Always looking westward, the Pergamene princes noted tho advance of
Ri*me, and early recognized that her discipline and energy would prove
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Introduction, — HUtory,
[ 83 ]
more than a match for the disordered mobs and effeminate courts of the
Bast; and from the moment that Roman envoys appeared in Asia Minor,
the Pergamenes threw in their lot for good or for evil with the Republic.
Tbeir trump card was astutely played just at a time, when the Greek cities
were beginning to, grow jealous of their brilliant neighbour. The forces of :
Bnmenes 1L fought side by side with those of Scipio at Magnesia (191),
and the realm of Pergamum was enlarged after the battle by the addition'
of all western Asia Minor south of theBangarius and north of the Taurus,'
excepting only the Greek cities. Eumenee II. ruled over a kingdom almost
identical with that of Croesus. Rome had no mind as yet to organise so
distant a oountry into a province, and was glad to leave her interests in
the hands of an ally, whose independence of his neighbours, the Syrian
king in Cilicia, the semi-independent princes of Cappadocia and Pontus,
the king of Bithynia, and the predatory, though woken, Gauls, was'
only secured by the use of her, name. A raid undertaken by the Consul
Gnaeus Manlius Volso in 190 up the Maeander Valley to Galatia, was the
only Roman expedition into the interior for many years. • But the jealous •
conquerors took care to keep the balance of power pretty even. * As allies,
however, not as subjects, the'Pergamene princes continued to rule in •
Asia Minor until the brilliant history of their race was appropriately
closed by the testament of Attalus III., who, dying in 133, made the .
Roman people heirs of his realm and his treasure.
The other kingdoms of Asia Minor are of less interest ahd far less
importance than that of Pergamum. Bithynia bad obeyed only native
prinoes far back into Persian times, and became a virtually independent
monarchy during the early struggles of the Diadochi ; but its kings were
small men, and only one— that Prusias who, in 183, in order to please the
Romans, drove his. guest, the great Hannibal, to commit • suicide— has
attained even to infamy. The kingdom survived as a thorn in the side of
the Attalids of Pergamum until the extinction of that family. The dynasty
of Ariarathes in OcMvadocia % which also dates back into the last century
of Persian rule, and had assert*! independence on Alexander’s death, re-
mained in tributary connection with the kings of Syria from the battle of
Ipsus (301) until Some years after the battle of Magnesia (191). ' About
the middle of the 2nd oentury the Cappadocian kings shifted tbeir alle-
giance to Rome, which did not finally incorporate their distant realm in
her empire until after the Christian era. No one of these Cappadocian
prinoes played a part worth recording in the history of Asia Minor. The
dynasts of PapMagonia were even less independent and important, and
soon fell under the shadow of a power, which, starting in Amasia of
Pontus about the time of the battle of Ipsus, grew unnotioed 1 behind the
northern mountains. This is the kingdom identified with tbe names of
Mithridates and Pharoaoes. By 190 it hkd extended to the borders of
Bithynia, and, astutely truckling to Rome, its prinoes obtained from the
indolent Senate an extended dominion over the oentral plateau after the
termination of Pergamene rule. How this power, incautiously fostered as
a substitute for a Roman army of occupation, grew strong enough to defeat
Roman generals, the sequel wUl show.
The Gails. — There remains to be noticed the most striking event in the
history of Asia Minor during the third oentury, vis., the establishment of
[Ztafey.] s
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Google
[ 84 ] Introduction. — History.
a Celtic power in the heart of the peninsula on the Sangariua and the
Hal js. Whence these “ Gauls,” as the Greeks called them, came originally
we can only guess; they seem to have drifted down to the shores of the'
Adriatic in the time of Alexander, but did not appear in the Hellenic
world till a year nr two after the battle of Coros (281). Then they
swept down under Brennus into Macedonia and Greece, and stray bands
began to cross the Hellespont. Other bands, the broken remnants of
Brennus* army, followed after being repulsed from Thermopylae and
Delphi, and joined the first to form a great predatory horde, which charged
this way and that till it had cleared for itself a space in the centre of the
country. Fresh from the north, these barbarians were a * terror to the
feeblo kings of Asia Minor, and even the Seleucids had to retire behind a
frontier ot which the new towns of Apamea, Antioch of Pisidia, 'lliyateira, ‘
and others were the outposts. Tribute was even levied upon the Syrian
kings and the Greek cities. Great therefore was the joy when Attalus I. of
Pergamus succeeded in defeating them signally (280) and in penning them
into the country to which they gave the name of Galatia; here they consti-
tuted themselves into an aggressive community, formed out of three tribes-
— the Tolistobogii, the Tectosages, and the Trocmi, — which were severally-
divided into four parts under tetrarchs. Thus the clan organization of
northern Euro|>e found a home among the civic communities and servile:
populations of Asia Minor. Though defeated, the Celts were not sultdued,
aud continued to disturb the peace of all their neighbours With the impar-
tiality which characterizes a small but vigorous race domiciled among
inferior populations. A similar state of things exists at this day in Asia
Minor wherever Kurds or Circassians are settled among the aboriginal
population. Rome herself paid the Celts the compliment of sendiug into
their fastnesses a consular army after the battle of Mapnesia, for she felt
that Pergamum could not rule Asia Minor in her interests while the'
turbulent barbarians were still unchastised. This end effected, Galatia
was subjected to the suzerainty of Pergamum, and used by Rome as a-
wholesome check on the suzerain.
Such was the general situation in Asia Minor while it was waiting fofr a
master: the north and west divided among independent communities, the
south and east decaying under the blighting rule of the Seleucid monarchal
of 8yria.
Tbs Beltueid Colonies. — Occupied with murderous family feuds, and dark
harem intrigues, launching out into silly schemes of ambition, like those of
Antiochns the 14 Great," or retiring before inferior foes, as did Antiochus
Soter, the Seleucid kings redeemed their record in Asia Minor only by the
foundation of cities — the Antiochs, Seleucias, Laodicean — which stud the
map of south-eastern Anatolia. These foundations, worthy of Alexander
himself, were designed— some like Seleucia in Cilicia Trachea, or Laodicea*
on the Lycus— as commercial centres; others, like Thyateira, Apamea,.
Antioch of Pisidia, Synnada, and Laodicea Combusts, to form a line oi
defence against the Celts. But, whatever their intention, they survived'
to play a port in the Hellenization of Western Asia, and therefore in the
spread of Christianity, which mav atone in some degree for the harm'
wrought by the feeble rule of the dynasty which founded them. A single
defeat — that of Magnetia (191) — sufficed to shrivel up the Seleucid power
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Introduction. — History. [86]
and drive it beyond the Taurus ; and the 8yrian kings, though for a cen-
tury longer they divided Cilicia with the pirates, and squabbled about
Pamphylia with the proieae * of Borne, cease for all practical purposes to
influence the history of Asia Minor after the beginning of the second
century before our era.
The first Boman Province. — The great shadow of the Bepublio hod been
creeping eastwards for two centuries, and now rested on the hither shore
of the Aegean. Out of Mysia, Lydia, Ionia, and Caria, the first Boman
province was formed, nominally in 133, practically in 129.
For the moment, however, the advent of Western power seemed about
to cause little material change to the Asiatics; the Boman pro-consul
stepped into the place of the rergamene king ; legionaries indeed took the
place of Gallic and Greek mercenaries, but the native levies were still
maintained; the royal domain became public land of Borne; the cities
which had enjoyed privileges under Pergamnm retained them under their
new masters, except a few which had paid forfeit for participation In an
abortive rising whereby for two years (132-130) an illegitimate son of the
Pergamene house delayed the final settlement of the province. Accordingly!
the greater Greek cities, such as Ephesus, Smyrna, ferythrae, Magnesia
ad Sipylum and others, preserved autonomy as complete as was consistent
with their incorporation in the Boman province : that is to say, they enjoyed
full municipal liberty under their own magistrates and laws, imposed,
collected and administered their own taxes, coined money, held their
land freely, paid no land tax, and were not oppressed by the presenoe of
Boman troops. No city on the mainland of Asia received quite the
highest type of freedom, such as that enjoyed by the island of Rhodes, which
depended on definite treaty with the Republic, but the great majority
enjoyed the rights enumerated above by grace of a decree of the Senate,
or, in less favoured cases, of the successive governors of the province
( = 11 stipendiary cities "). In return they placed their levies at the disposal
of Borne when required, and paid tithes on their produce to the Roman
treasury — obligations identical with those ^nder which they .had been with
regard to Pergamum.
Never was a great and fertile territory acquired so easily by any power :
the Anatolians, accustomed to foreign domination for centuries past, asked
only to be governed and left in peaoe; beyond them lay nothing more
formidable than the miserable Seleucid power, the infant and weakly
Armenia, and the petty principalities of Pontus, Galatia, and Bithynia,
slavishly subservient to Borne. Without the loss of a man the Republic
might have incorporated the whole peninsula in her empire in 129 b.c. ;
yet fifty years were hot to elapse before the whole country was ablsse from
end to end, and Boman generals forced to contest every inch of ground
among a hostile population ; and seventy years passed after the death of
the last king of Pergamum before Roman dominion was established securely.
For this state of things the Roman people had to thank their political
leaders.
The rich province, too easily acquired, fell to Rome at a period when
her up£>er and commercial classes had already tasted the delights of
luxury, and the possibilities of indulging it at the expense of others.
There was not much room in Sicily or Sardinia ; Greece and Macedonia
e 2
Digitized by L^ooQle
[ 86 ] Introduction.— History.
were barren lands ; but Asia afforded a field for development at the moment
when development was most desired, and its servile population seemed $
ready prey. Within a very few years th6re were 100,000 Latin merchants,
farmoro, tax-contractors, and the like, in Asia. It had always been
customary for the minor dues of the various cities to be “ farmed ” by local
capitalists. Many of these were supplanted at once by Latins, favoured
by the pro-consuls; and in 122 a Roman demagogue, Gaius Gracchus,
enacted that the tithes should be put up in Rome itself to the highest
bidder year by year. In the imperial city Asiatic capitalists stood no
chance ; the tithes and the land-tax were bought by the Roman knights,
and their agents, the infamous pvblioani, penetrated forthwith even into
cities which were technically “ free.” The publicanus had to make a profit,
his masters had to make a profit, and the Roman treasury had to make a
profit — the lot of the provincials may be easily inferred. Not only, how-
ever, were the latter plundered by the commercial Romans, but also in a
period of lavish luxury and expenditure the Roman noble looked to a
provincial command to pay old debts and new obligations incurred in the
struggle for office. As his chance came but once, he looked further to
making a competence for the future, and often also a margin wherewith to
pay for justice, should he be prosecuted for extortion on resigning office,
lie was accompanied by a troop of needy hangers-on and a couple of
legions, accustomed to live by local enterprise.
Having allowed the condition of the Asiatics to become ten times worse
than it had been previously, and sown liberally the seeds of disaffection,
the Roman Senate pursued an external policy no whit altered from that
which had been only moderately successful while the land lay at peace
under Pergamene domination. To possess without payment, to be
guarded and not to guard, were the maxims of senatorial policy. A
frontier of subservient petty kingdoms, looking to their own defences, was
a far cheaper, less troublesome, and often not less effective protection than
chains of standing camps garrisoned by legions. The effectiveness of
suoh a frontier will depend, however, on the good temper of the province
behind, and the adjustment of the balance of impotence among the kinglets
on the border. Rome, as we have seen, neglected to secure the first
essential, and, within a few years, untaught as yet by the experience she
was destined to aoquire in Numidia, proceeded to be careless also about
the second — forgetful, moreover, that a policy which had been successful
when she was only a European power, and had a natural frontier between
herself and her “ allies,” was not necessarily good when she had passed
over into Asia, and must draw only a vague line of demarcation east of her
province. Sixty years earlier she nad set the Peigamene king above his
fellows to guard her interests in Western Asia Minor. Now that the west
was her own, she committed her eastern frontier to Pontus and Cappadocia,
aggrandizing, at the expense of the Galatians, of Bithynia and of Paphla-
gonia, the two princes — Mithridates V. Euergetes and Ariarathes VI. — to
whose enmity to each other and gratitude towards herself she was content
to confide the security of Asia. But though the kings were mutually
opposed, their peoples were similar, and might at any moment be com-
bined. Unlike Pergatnum, which was Hellenized ana looked westward,
Pontus end Cappadocia lay within the fringe of the east; in religion,
speech, and institutions they were Iraniaed, and the kings of the former
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Introduction. — Hutoryi [37]
were descendants of the Achaemenids of Persia. A land of warlike
villages under feudal lords, the east of Asia Minor was given over to
Sultanism, and was a menace rather than a protection to the peaceful agri-
cultural districts of the West. Thus the elements of denser were already
present in the East ; Rome created them in the West ; only a great sultan
was wanted, and he appeared in 111 B.O., in the person of Mithridates VI.
Eupator, king of Pontus. *
Mithridates. — The history of Asia Minor for nearly fifty years thence-
forward is written in the career of this indomitable but futile nuin, whose
obstinate vigour has won for him a reputation for hi^h aims and national
aspirations which in truth he merited little. The beginnings of the Pontic
kingdom have been alluded to already. Not possessed of any system or
of any national unity, it owed its greatness or weakness to the personal
character of successive sultans. Pharisees I. had enlarged its boundaries
westwards not long after the battle of Magnesia; and his, successor, Mithri-?
dates V. Euergetcs, besides receiving an extension of territory at the hands
of Rome, as related above, had consolidated the government, and begun to
form a native army. . His son, the great Mithridates, had only to develop*
this policy, secure from the interference of a Senate too blind and too
much occupied at home to regard Pontus. His firet moves showed a craft
and foresight which deserted him later. Before challenging attention in
Asia Minor, he secured the northern shores of the Euxine, thereby assuring
himself of corn and light troops for future campaigns ; then he possessed
himself, uiinoticed, of the obscure Lesser Armenia, rich in archers and im-
pregnable fortresses. By 104 b.c. he was ready for greater enterprises, but
not as yet absolutely to defy Rome, and for thirteen years he schemed and
plotted to get possession of the adjoining territories-— Cappadocia, Paphla-
gonia, and Bithynia. Twice did Rome bid him retire within his proper,
dominions, and twice he obeyed — the second time on the mandate of Sulla,
who seated himself on the banks of the Euphrates in the place of honour
between and above Mithridates and the envoy of the rising power of
Parthia. The third time (89 b.o.) the Pontic king obeyed again, Dut only
pour minus muter ; the Social War in Italy gave him his opportunity ;
the greed; and incompetence of the Roman envoys brought on tlie quarrel
he desired; and in the following spring he declared war in earnest on the
Republic.
It is unnecessary to deal minutely with the struggle which ensued, for,
like all Mithridates' fruitless career, it left no permanent mark on the
history of Asia Minor. He found Western Asia eager to receive him : even
the Greek cities welcomed him, eagerly as Ephesus and others tried after-
wards to forget the fact when they began to see how sensual and brutal
their sultan proved, and how small was his chance of ultimate victory.
Rome had done nothing to strengthen herself in Asia during fifty years,
beyond half-hearted measures taken against the pirates of Cilicia, where
she had established tne semblance rather than the reality of a province.
There is little to admire in victories over inoxperienood Roman generals,
supported for the most part by raw levies, nor in the administration of
Mithridates during his four years in Asia. He capitulated almost without
a struggle, at the last, retired to his native kingdom at the bidding of
fjulia* and left Asia Minor in peace for twelve years.
Digitized by L^ooQle
[38] Introduction. — History.
The province of Asia itself never again saw a hostile army, so long as it
remained part of the Roman Empire. Terribly punished by heavy requi-
sitions for its part in the past war, it relapsed into profound quiet, varied
only by the arrival or departure of a governor, by distant echoes of wars
in Italy or the East, or by an earthquake more severe than usual. The
rest of the peninsula, however, remained to lie settled, and in 74 n.a was
set once more Ablaze by Mithri dates, who advanced westwards through
Bithynia to Cyzicus. But the Romans had found generals, and late learned
wisdom. Lucullus dashed through Phrygia from Cilicia, and drove the
old king back through his own kingdom, and out of Asia Minor. He
returned, indeed, once more, but only to find Lucullus succeeded by Pompey
— a general not less able and more fortunate— and again fled, this time
not to return. He died in the Crimea in 63 b.c.
Four years earlier Pompey had crushed also the power of the Cilician
pirates which, by the accession of every malcontent in the Roman dominions
and every broken man, had waxed exceedingly, and become the first naval
force in the Mediterranean. The robbers had begun to issue from their
castles (many of which still stand in ruins on the Cilician Taurus) as the
naval powers of Macedonia and Egypt declined. The Romans, born lands-
men, destroyed all remnnnts of a police of the seas, and put nothing in its
place; they treated the development of Cilician piracy with as much
ignorant indifference as they had displayed towaids Pontus, until the
emboldened rovers ventured to kidnap and harry on the coasts of Italy
itself. Iu a p evil day, however, they intercepted the corn-shi|)s making
for Ostia, and the sensitiveness of the Roman stomach proved more acute
than the perception of eye or ear. Poiupey was given absolute powers
over the sea and coasts : in sixty days he broke the pirate power west and
east, burned the fleets and the forts, and settled the mountain-robbers in
lowland towns on the Cilician coast.
Ionian settlement of A. Minor.— Once more after seventy years Rome
was without an enemy in Asia Minor, and, dimly conscious of what had
cost her so much blood and treasure, took partial means to preclude the
chance of any enemy appearing. BithynU had been left to Rome as long
ago as 74 b,o. by the will of the last king, Nicomedes, but it was not
definitely settled as a province till 65 b.c. Pontus with Paphlagonia was
also constituted a province, and an attempt imide not unsuccessfully to
change its character by the encouragement of city life. The old province
of Cilicia was enlarged to include Painphylia and Phrygia Magna. Thus
all the coasts of Asia Minor, except Lycia, which was still a republic and
nominally independent, became Roman in 65. Qirt by such a ring of
provinces (for eastward Syria was incorporated in the empire), semi-
independent kingdoms in the interior coula do little harm, and therefore
Rome allowed the Cappadocian king to rrUin his dominion, and elevated
a Galatian tetrsrch into the prince of a large tract. As checks upon these
kinglets, and to conciliate native prejudices, certain priestly dynasts were
fostered by Home— the priest of Ma at Comana which commanded a great
road to the Euphrates, the priest of Zeus at Olba on the Cilician Taurus,
and the priest of Zeus of Yeuasa on the frontiers of Galatia and Cappa-
docia. Harmless, however, as were these dynasts and kings in the year
65, their retention marked a policy of procrastination and present utility,
Digitized by i^ooQle
introduction. — History. [39]
^worthy of the same. Senate which had raised up Mithridates; for the least
.trouble with Armenia or Parthia might make them dangerous enough.
.Accordingly, Augustus thought it wise to put an end to the aggressive
independence of Galatia forty years later, and Tiberius to that of Cappa-
docia in a.d. 17. Parts of Cilicia Trachea, of southern Cappadocia, and
•even of Pontus, were allowed to retain nominal independence under
.native “ kings,” but by the end of the first century a.d. all these tracts,
together with Lycia and Rhodes, had become Roman, and the whole of
Asia Minor was included at last in the Empire.
After the settlement of Pompey, Asia Minor was too peaceful to have
much history : its importance, long on the decline, becomes very small
in the Roman world. The few traoes of national character left to it under
native kings were auickly lost} and it became a conglomerate of petty
cities, hardly sensible of their chains, and absorbed in small municipal
ambition, the usual lot of the Greek when no longer free! We know
something of. the internal condition of the peninsula from the letters of
Cicero, who served a year in the Cilician province as pro-consul ; we know
that the ever-coming Parthians caused hopes and fears within it ; we know
that it was grievously harassed by publio debt. One attempt was made
by a foreign prince to gain a footing within it, viz., by Pharnnces of the
Crimea ; but Caesar saw through his designs, and crushed him swiftly and
strongly at Zela (47 B.O.). During the Civil Wars the recruiting sergeant*
of Brutus and Cassius, and later of Antony, were active in the peninsula,
but the great issues were fought out elsewhere, and the establishment or
an Emperor at Rome was not needed to bring peace to Asia Minor.
Under the Roman dominion Asia Minor has no political history. There
are five subjects on which modern interests are directed, 1, the growth of
Roman dominion; 2, the spread of western civilization in an Oriental
country ; 8, the development of Christianity ; 4, the government of the
provipces;,5, the re-conquest of the country by Oriental races; but there
are no individual “great events,” only great but slow movements and
changes: .
1. Roman dominion grew in Asia Minor in a way similar to that in
which British dominion in India continues to grow. A strong power in a
weak i distracted country rapidly attracted to. itself the loo se and feeble
states. There was little warfare except in the earliest stages of the
establishment of the power of Rome; but its dominion extended with
rapid strides by peaceful means. Roman traders swarmed in all the cities,
and the absorption of Asia Minor was a commercial quite as much as a
political matter. The first Roman province in Asia Minor was formed in
B.O. 133: in a.d. 72 the Euphrates was the frontier of the combined
province Galatia-Cappadocia.
2. The most interesting point, but' a very obscure one, in the history of
the country is the gradual transformation of the population from an
Oriental to a Europeanised people. The change was indeed only gradual,
and perhaps far from complete ; but there can be no doubt that it was
profound and far-reaching. In the first place the great cities founded by
the Greek kings all, over the country and distinguishable by their namea
(including all such asiLaodicea, Seleucia, Antioch, Apamea, Eumeneia,
Attalia, Apollonia, and many others), were centres of Greek tone and
language and political institutions. Instead of a village system (according
Digitized by L^ooQle
[ 40 ] Introduction. — History.
to which tho country fell into districts, each lying round a great temple,
each covered by villages owning and cultivating their own land on the
communal system, and each ruled by the priests of the central temple),
there was substituted the Greek political system, in which eaoh district
had a central city, the poto, while the villages of the district were all
merely outlying parts of the polis , and all freemen were citizens of tho
• polu , whether they actually resided in it or in one of the villages : the
magistrates of the polis governed the whole district. Such Greek cities
were scattered over Mysia, Lydia, Phrygia, Cana, and Pisidia (the coast
cities hod been more or less thoroughly Hdlenised at an earlier period);
‘ but they formed mere posts in an alien land. Greek civilization did not
penetrate further inland than the low-lying valleys that open on the coast
till the Roman period. The use of the Greek language is the best test of
the progress of Hellenic civilization. Lycia is spoken of by Cicero as
thoroughly Greek. In a.d. 19 the Lydian language was no longer used in
Lydia ; but at Cibyra, in the western part of the upper lands, it was
spoken along with Greek, Pisidian, ana the language of the 8olymi.
The Lycaonian tongue was familiar to the native part of the population of
the Roman oolony Lystra, about a.d. 50 ; but Greek was also spoken there.
Inscriptions in the Phrygian language are found in some retired parts of
Phrygia as late as the fourth century.
3. Christianity spread with very unequal speed in different parts of the
country, beginning along the line of the great roads that led across the
country from the Cilician Gates to the western and northern seas, and
especially along the highway through Lycaonia and southern Phrygia to
Apomea, Laodicea and Ephesus, it spread with extraordinary rapidity
among those people who were already in process of changing their old
thoughts and social principles, and had not yet fully settled into the Greek
style of thinking ana living. The old Anatolian religion originated among
a people of primitive social character : its supreme deity was a goddess,
who becomes a mother through an act of deceit, or violence, on the part of
another deity, who ultimately is her own son. In this religion there is no
“ Holy Marriage ” of the supreme god and goddess to serve as the proto-
type and guarantee of humau marriage on earth (as was tho case in several
Hellenic religions); it is the type of a society in which there are only
temporary unions, and a progeny that respects only the mother. How far
bevond this stage society had progressed in the country before Greek
influence began to penetrate into it is unknown. But it is certain that it
was still different from, and in several respects below, the Greek social
system, and that the Greek form of society spread aloug with Greek
civilization. The old religion continued to exist. In outward and exoteric
• form it changed ; and Greek names, and often Greek myths, were sub-
stituted for Anatolian. But the more secret and esoteric ritual continued
• unchanged in the My»terie». Yet this religion was out of keeping with
• the new type of social organisation^ which was spreading under Greek in-
fluence. The social changes were unsettling men's minds; and the old
religious forms were out of harmony with their new tone. In those jiarU
of tne country which were taken at the critical stage the new religion
spread with staitling rapidity; in those parts of the country which had
been thoroughly Hellenised, and had beoome habituated to Greek ways,
it spread with slower pace ; but in those parts whjch remained thoroughly
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction . — History . [41]
barbarian it hardly spread at all. It was only as education gradually
affected the country districts that Christianity established itself in them. :
The new religion proved a far more efficient engine in diffusing western
civilisation than either Greek Regal or Roman Imperial Government; All
Christians must know Greek ; it is not probable that in the early centuries
Christianity was preached in the native dialects 6f Anatolia. Greek Was
the language of th^ sacred books, and the only lah'gti&ge id which the first 1
missionaries could appeal to their audiences. Just as in Rome the
language of the Chnrch continued to be almost Wholly Greek until the'
third century, and partly even later, so it was in Asia Minor ; and those
who had once learned Greek never went back to the ' barbarian speech, or
allowed their' families' to go back. ’ Education, civilisation,' religion, all
were on the side of Greek ; and the native languages disappeared wherever
these agents became powerful. It is a striking proof of the varying
degrees of rapidity with which Christianity spread, that late in the fourth*
century a Gallic language, like that of the Treviri of Lorraine, was still
spoken in Galatia, as Jerome mentions. The country parts of Galatia, the
bare hilly oountry between the Sangarius and the Halyfc, and the open
treeless plains between the Sangarius and LycaoUia; Were probably the last
parts of Anatolia in which Christianity established its footing; for the
Galatian churches; which S. Paul bad established, were all in the southern
parts of the Galatic province, where Phrygian and Lycaonian were the
native languages, and which lay more oh the great lines of communication.
4. The organisation of the provinces is a difficult and complicated
subject It may best be divided into, I. the Roman Provinces ; II. the
Late-Roman or Byzantine Provinces , from about 207 to the seventh
oentury; III. the Themes . ’ ■; ■
I. — The Roman Provinces — (1.) Asia was founded d.o. 133. ’ It consisted
of the kingdom of' At talus of Pergamuni, left by bis Will to the Romans ;
but tbe senate gave considerable part of central Phrygia to Mithridates V.
Euergetes. After his death in b.o. 120 this part of Phrygia was taken
from Mithridates VI. Eupator, and added to the province. Part of the
decree of the senate, dating from b.c. 116, may still be read on a marble
built into a fountain in Aresli, beside the ancient Lysias. In b.o. 84
Bulla re-organized the province, and henceforth it was common in eastern
Lydia and Phrygia to date chronology fiom that era.! The province
was divided into conventus either by Sulla or earlier ; these were at first
Ephetus, Smyrna, Sardis, Pergaroum, Adramyttiura (including Cyzicus),
Alabenda, Cibyra (including Laodicea), Apamea, Synnada, Philomelium.
Under the ’empire tney were increased in number, Philadelphia, Eumeneia,
Thyateira, and probably others being added. The four eastern conventus ,
being on the road which the governor of Cilicia had to take to reach his
province when the sea was rendered dangerous by the pirates, were
oommonly placed, between b.o. 80 and 60, along with the Cilician province.
In b.o. 27 Asia was made a senatorial province under a consular pro-consul.
(2.) Cilicia,-— Part of this country, viz., the plains of Tarsus and
around the gulf of Issue, was made a province id b.o. 103, and the Lycian
coast lands wete included in the same province. In 64 it was re-organised
by Pompey after the Mithridatic wars, and again by Julius Caesar in 47.
During this period 1 Cyprus was united with it In b.c; 22 Cyprus was
given to the Senate, while Cilicia was kept undpr the emperor’s own control,
Digitized by L^ooQle
[42] Introduction . — History .
probably being administered by a praetorian legate (though Marquardt
considers that it was placed under the governor of Syria. When an
army was needed, the Syrian army certainly operated in Oilicia ; but these
may have been considered as special cases of widened command). In the
east of Oilicia a small kingdom was left independent under Taroondimotus
(64-31), Taroondimotus IL (b.o. 20), Philopator (d. a.d. 17), Antiocbua IV*
(17-74) ; it was united to Cilicia by Vespasian in 74. Western Cilicia
(Trachsd) was left independent, and was ruled by various kings or
priestly dynasts (the Teucrids of Olba, Arcbelaus l. # Arcbelaus II.,
Antiochus IV., 37-74, Polemon, 41-74, etc.); but its history is too com-
plicated and obscure to enter upon. It was gradually incorporated in the
provinoe; and finally in 137, or soon after, Lycaonia and Isauria were
added to Cilicia, and a great province under a consular legate was
constructed.
(3.) Lyda-Pamphvlia . — It is quite uncertain when Lycia was separated
from CiUcia, and when Pamphylia was incorporated with it (Cicero
governed Cilicia, Cyprus, Pamphylia, and probably Lycia). Lycia was
made free by Antony ; but under Claudius, in a.d. 43, it wss again a
provinoe under a legatus. Pamphylia was made a procurators! province
in a.d. 25, and was so as late as 50. Under Qslba it was united with
Galatia. Vespasian in 74 constructed a large province of Lycia, Pamphylia,
and the southern and western parts of Pisidia (hitherto part of Galatia),
under a praetorian legate.
8 .) Biihynia-Pontu *. — Bithynia came under Roman power by the will
icomedes III., the last king, in b.o. 74 ; and the coast lands of Pontus
were added in 64 by Pompey, who divided the former into twelve, the
latter into eleven, cities. The double provinoe was made senatorial in
B.o. 27, and put under a praetorian pro- consul. In 111 Pliny was sent as
a consular legate, with pro-consular power, by Trajan on a special mission
to Bithynia-rontus, and after this time we occasionally hear of legati
in it.
(5.) Galatia was constituted a province in b.o 25. It consisted of the
dominions of Amyntas, king of Galatia, comprising parts of Lycaonia,
Phrvgia, with Icunium, Derbe, Lystrs, Isaura, and western Pisidia to the
borders of Pampbylis. In 5 b.o. the Panhlagonian kingdom of Deiotarus
(Pompeiopolis, Qangra, Andrapa) was added. In B.o. 2 Sebastopol is, the
kingdom of Atepoiix in Pontus, was incorporated: and in a.d. 35
Gomans, the state of Dyteutus in Pontus, was added, and this district
wss termed Pontus Galaticus. In 63 Pontus, the kingdom of Polemon,
was added. During all this time the governor had been a praetorian
legate; but about 72 Cappadocia and Armeuia Minor were united with
Galatia, and the combined province put under a consular lesate, while
part of Pisidia was attached to Lycia Pamphylia. About 106 Trajan
took out of this vast |>ro vince Galatia proper, Paphlagonia, Lycaonia, and
those parts of Phrygia and Pisidia that belonged to it, and put them
under a praetorian legate, while Cappadocia, Armenia Minor, Pontus
Galaticus, Pontus Polemoniacus, and Pontus Oappadocius, wore put
under a consular legate with two legions under his oomniand, XII. Ful-
minate at Melitene and XV. Apollmaris at Satala. Galatia wss further
diminished in sice about 137, losing all the southern and central parts of
Lycaonia, which were attached to Cilicia.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction. — History.
[43]
(6.) Cappadocia was made a procuratorial province in A.n. 17. The rest
of its history Is given under Galatia. It was the frontier province,
touching the Euphrates; and its military history, with its garrisons,
posts, and frontier lines, is a subject as interesting as it is obscure. The
best account may be found in a paper by Mr. Hogarth in the Supple-
mentary Papers of the Koyal Geographical Society, vol. iii.
II. — About 297 a great re-organization of the Empire by Diocletian took
place. The provinces were made smaller, and the power of the great
military commands fsiich as Syria, Cappadocia, Moesia, Germany) was
broken. These smaller provinces were united in groups.
fi.) Dioeoesis Orientis (the Egyptian and 8yrian provinces, with two in
Asia Minor, Cilicia and Isauria)^ under command of the Comes Orientis.
Cilicia , governed in 413 by a consularis, was afterwards divided by
Theodoeius II. into Cilicia Prima ( metrep . Tarsus, governor consularis )
and Secunda (metrop. Anazarbus, governor praeses). Isauria (called
Cilicia II. in Notitia Dignitatum) was governed by n praeses.
(2.) Dioecesis Pontica under a vicaritu with tne provinces: (a.)
Bithynia ( metrop . Nicomedia, governor consularis ); (b.) Paphlagonia
( metrop . Gangra ; but a new province Honorias, with metrop . Olaudiopolis,
was created before 386 by Theodosius I. out of parts of Bithynia and
Paphlagonia : after this Bithynia was governed by consularis, Honorias by
praeses , Paphlagonia by corrector; Justinian reunited Paphlagonia and
Honorias); (c.) Galatia ( metrop . Ancyra; divided into Prima under
consularis 413, 630, comes 636, and Salutaris with metrop. Pessinus,
governor praeses); (d.) Cajpadocia (metrop. Caesarea ; divided by Valens
in 371 into Prima under praeses 413. consularis 630, and Secunda with
metrop. Tyana, governor praeses : in 636 Justinian created a third Cappa-
docia, metrop. Justinianopqlis-Mocissus, Kir-shehr); (e.) Diospontus r
called Helenopontus by' Constantine ( metrop . Amasia, governor praeses
413, consularis 630; Justinian united this and the following province and
plaoed the two under a corrector); (f.) Pontus Polemoniacus ( metrop .
Neocaesarea, governor praeses ) ; (g.) Armenia Minor ( metrop . 8ebastea,
governor praeses 413, consularis 630) ; Armenia Major was added soon
after; in 413 we find Armenia Minor divided into Prima and Secunda
( metrop . Melitene, governor praeses).
(3.) Dioecesit Astana under a vicarius with the provinces : (a.) Lycia-
Pamphylia (divided between 313 and 386 into Lycia, with metrop. Myra,
under praesis 613, consularis 630, and Pamphylia, with metrop. Side,
under consularis ) ; (b.) Phrygia ( metrop . Laodicea, divided by Constantine
into Prima or PacatiaUa [governor praeses 413, consularis 630, comes 636],
and Secunda or Parva or Salutaris, metrop. SynnaHa, governor praeses
413, consularis 630) ; (c.) Asia ( metrop . Ephesus, governor pro-consul) ;
i d.) Lvdia ( metrop . Sardis, governor consularis ) ; (e.) Cana (metrop.
Iphrodisias StSuropolis, governor praeses 413, consularis 630) ; (f.) Helies-
pontus (metrop. Cyzicus, governor consularis ) ; (g.) Insulae (metrop.
Khodes, governor praeses) ; (h.) Pisidia (metrop., probably Iconium ; but in
364 it was divided into Pisidia (metrop. Antioch), and Lycaonia (metrop.
Iconium), governor in each praeses 413, consularis 630). It appears that
about 413 at least, and probably generally, Asia, Hellespontus, and
Insulae were not actually subject to the Vicarius of the Dioecesis , but
were under the proconsul Asiae subject directly to the Emperor.
Digitized by L^ooQle
[44] Introduction. — History.
IIL— The Themes. — Id the utter prostration and disorganisation of the
Byzantine empire, during the seventh century, the provincial system broke
up completely. Government became dislocated. The various armies
which, after the long and exhausting wars against the gaasanian kings,
maintained the terrible and apparently hopeless struggle against the Arabs,!
were the only representatives of actual government.. The oountry as a
whole drifted steadily back towards barbarism. The armies (themata)
constituted centres of order ; but apart from them there was only disorder.
When the Iconoclast Emperors began to reorganise the country and evolve
order out of chaos, they made their reconstruction on the existing lines,
working from the actual centres of order and administration, viz., the
themata. The country that was naturally defended by each army was
called after it, and constituted a theme. The beginning pf the system pf
themes cannot be exactly dated, its origin was gradual. The military
system was the only one that Heraclius could trust to (610-641) ; and it
seems to have been completed and arranged by the first loonoclast
Emperor, Leo III. (717-741).
It is not possible to assign the exact bounds of each theme in the.
following list, Little evidence is available ; and, moreover, it lay in the
nature of this military system that the bounds should be uncertain and
variable, changing according to the convenience of the armies.
C 1.) Opsikiati : Mysia, with parts of Bithynia, Phrygia and Lydia,
including Nicaea, Dorylaeuiq, Midaeum, Cotyaeum, and the Lydian
Catacecaumene with the fortress of Kula.
(2.) Optimate ; part of Bithynia, a small but important district adjoin-
ing Constantinople, bounded by the sea, the Opsikiau, Anatolic, and
Buccellariote Themes.
(3.) Thrakesian : Ionia, Lydia, Caria, part of Phrygia. Its eastern
fortresses were Khonae and Khoma-Siblia-Justinianopolis. Under the
Comneni the new Thome Khoma, part of the Thrakesian Theme, was the
frontier garrison against the Seljfiks.
(4.) Anatolic : perhaps the largest and most important, ranked first in
the list of the Emperor Constantiue Porphyrogenitus. It extended from
near Dorylaeum to the Taurus and Cappadocia, being divided from
Opsikion by a line running from Meros (Kumbet) and passing west of
Afifim Kara-hissar. At one time it included part of the flaimane district
and probably also Sivri-hissar. The great camp (SnXrjtcrov) of Caborkium,
at the main source of the Sangarius, was in it, and many strong castles.*
Of these Ateous probably lies between Liyen and Denarii, Acroenos is
Afifim Kara-hissar, Cedrea is beside Bnyat, and Tyropeum is near
llghin.
(6.) Buccellariote Theme : Galatia west of the Halys, and the eastern
parts of Bithynia, with the coast lands about Tion and Pontic Heracles.
(6.) Paphlagonian Theme , bounded by the Black Sea, the Halys, and
the Buccellariote Theme with the Billaeus (Filiyaa Chai) separating
them.
(7.) Armeniac Theme: one of the two largest and most important
themes, being second in the imperial list. Its extent varied greatly. At
some periods it was the only theme east of the Halys, and the Armeniac
regiments bore the whole brunt of the frontier defence. At other times
there were four or five or even six themes beyond the Halys, According
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Introduction. — History. [45]
to Constantine’s list it extended from the Cilician Gates to the Black Sea,
and included the whole of Cappadocia and Pontiis, and part of Armenia ;
but he thereafter mentions the themes of Sebastea and CWonta, which
divided between them the northern part of that vast territory.
(8.) Kharsian Theme was originally a mere garrison of the Armenian
Theme. It was of great importance, as guarding the passes leading from
the Halys to Sebastea and Amasia; and the general in command was
styled Kleisourarch. In the middle of the ninth century we hear of the
Kharsian Theme ; and it was greatly enlarged about 890 by. parts taken
from other Themes. ,
(9.) Cappadocic Theme had also been carved out of the vast Annpniac
Theme. It consisted pf the central and southern parts of Cappadocia ; but
about 890 the central part was transferred to the Kharsian Theme ; and
the Cappadocic Theme denoted the country stretching from Sivri-hissar
(Justinianopolis) to the Cilician Gates. . As the Byzantine territory con-
tracted, the Cappadocic Theme drew nearer Constantinople ; till about
▲.n. 1100 it meant the jgreat plain north of Amorium* between the
Phrygian mountains and Sivri-hissar. , .
Few of the castles that are mentioned as important points in the defences
against the Saracens have yet been identified; the following are the
strongest mediaeval castles known in the district; Mushallam Kalesi
(Hypeela) and Kaleh Hissar (Kharsia) in the Kharsian Theme ; Kara-ang-
kapu (Argeosl at the western extremity of Hassan Dash and the Kaleh four
miles east of UlU-kishla (Loulon), in the Cappadocic Theme. Lotdon was
for several centuries the most important fortress in Asia Minor; and
according as the Byzantine troops held or lost it, they could bar or they
had to submit to constant raids of the Saracens from Tarsus. ,
(10.) Sebastea is defined by its name. The .great military camp called
Bathyrrhyax was probably about Yeni-kh&n. : .
(11.) Colonia lay east from Sebastea. Shabin Kara-hissar was certainly
one of its chief fortresses. .
(12,) Mesopotamia, (13) Chaldaea, (14) Lycandus . The themes further
east had a very ohequered history, and were for long periods entirely
abandoned to the enemy. Mesopotamia was the south-eastern, and
Chaldaea the north-eastern frontier theme. Lycandus and Mesopotamia
were created by Loo VI., about 900, when the Macedonian, dynasty was
beating back the Arabs. Lycandus included the country beyond Anti-
Taurus from Comana to Melitene and the Euphrates, with part of
Commagene.
6. Asia Minor had been for a time annexed by Europe, and Europeanised
under the Homan Empire. But the conquest was not permanent ; the
East swept back again time after time over the oountry to the Aegean,
and at last obliterated almost every trace of European character. It is
impossible to do more, than glance at the events of the long struggle, that
re-established Orientalism in Asia Minor.
Centuries of peace, order, and security of tenure brought Asia Minor to
a state of extraordinary prosperity and wealth ; a fertile soil was used to
the utmost* and the riches that lay below the surface were mined and
exported to Rome. But the extreme centralisation of government under
the later Empire produced bad effects: the self-administering powers
Of the cities were abrogated, and the municipal officials became mere
Digitized by L^ooQle
[46] Introduction. — History.
servants of the central government. The population lost the powers and
thoughts of freemen, and became the slaves of system and caste; trade
guilds managed all that the imperial government left undone, and the life
of each individual was almost fixed from his birth. When weakness in
the central government allowed the military system to grow weak, the
armies of Oriental enemies swept unimpeded over the whole cpuntry, for
beyond the soldiery, a caste by themselves, there was no one to raise a
hand against the invaders. But the foundations of the national prosperity
were deeply laid in a system of sound law ; and time after time, when
vigour was restored to the military administration, the country recovered
its prosperity without much effort. In this way Justinian (527-566)
relnvigorated the empire, and established or strengthened a great series of
defensive fortresses and military roads to connect them ; and Heraclius
(610-641) raised the empire once more from what seemed to be the depth
of weakness and decay. The Sassanian kings had been hitherto the
leaders of the East ; but under Heraclius a more dangerous enemy began
to appear, the Muhammadanised Arabs. “ Forty-six years after the flight
of Muhammad from Mecca, his followers appeared in arms under the walls
of Constantinople” (668). During the following 50 years it appeared as
if the Saracen power was on the point of annihilating the Roman power
in* Asia, but a second siege of Constantinople (717-718) failed ; and the
Iconoclast emperors stemmed the Oriental tide of conquest. Leo Ilf.,
the Isaurian (716-741), after inducing the Arabs to abandon the siege of
Amorium, was crowned at Constantinople (717); and he conducted to a
glorious end a reign of cons taut struggle by a victory at Acroouus (AfiAui
Kara-hissar) in 730 over tho Arab general Sid el-Battal cl-Ghuzi,
the first great victory that a Byzantine army had gained iu open field
over the Saracens. Centuries afterwards this defeated Arab general
became celebrated as the epic hero of the Muhammadan victories over the
Byzantine empire. Leo's successors, Constantine V. (741-775), Leo IV.
(776-802), Ac., carried on the contest with varying success, but on* the
whole the scene of war became gradually more distant from Constan-
tinople. The Arabs gained no hold on the country beyond where their
armies stood; and, except for some exceptional efforts of llarfln er-
Raahtd (who marched to the Bosporus, 781, and captured Ancvra, 806)
and Motassem (who led a great army to destroy Amorium in 838), their
expeditions degenerated into mere predatory inclusions, annoying and
devastating to the centre and east of Asia Minor, but not dangerous to
the western parts, while the Emperor Theophilus in 836 penetrated even
into Commagene.
The Macedonian dynasty (867-1057) expelled the 8aracens from Asia
Minor and even from part of Syria. The great general John Curcuas
(about 920-960) carried the Roman standards from a frontier ou the
Halys to a frontier on the Euphrates and Tigris, to use the striking, but
rather exaggerated, language of a Byzantine historian (Theophanis
Continuator, p. 427). The emperor Nicephoros captured Tarsus and
reoccupied Cilicia in 965, and his generals took Antioch in the winter of
968-9, after it had been 328 years under Saracen power. Under the
emperor John Zimlsces, Mesopotamia was overrun, and Nisi bis, Am ids,
Marty ropol is, Ac., were captured, 973-6.
In 1067 a new enemy from the east, even more terrible than the Arabs,
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Introduction. — HUtory. [47]
entered Asia Minor, ravaging Cappadocia and Cilicia. These were the
Beljfik Turks, first servants, then oonqoerora, of the Arab 8ultana. In
1070 ther sacked the splendid Church of Michael at Khonae in the
west of Phrygia (now Khonas). In 1071 they defeated and captured the
Emperor Roman us Diogenes at Mansi kert in Armenia : and before 1061,
the whole of eastern and oentral Asia Minor was abandoned to them by
treaty. For some time after this a varying line, passing from Apamea
Cat the source of the Maeander) towards Afifim Kara-hissar, divided
Byzantine from Turkish territory. The Turks, while treating with leniency
the Christians within their empire, adopted deliberately the policy of de-
populating and laying waste the whole of the frontier lands. Considerable
part of Phrygia seems to have passed out of cultivation, and to have been
abandoned to nomads. Thus the Byzantine territory steadily shrank, and
the hold of the empire on the country grew weaker during peace, whereas
during the Arab wars the empire grew stronger during every interval of
peace, and the Arabs maintained their hold only by constant effort. The
Turkish policy of devastation was a terrible enemy ; and It found an ally
within the empire, for the hold of the European spirit and civilization
was not so strong as formerly, and the people were more ready to sink
back into Orientalism. The empire itself had become less Roman and
more Oriental. John Comnenas, 1118-1143, an able and bold prince,
hardly succeeded with all his victories in making any real improvement
in the position of the empire; and the brilliant campaigns of Manuel
(1143-80), who marched acroes the Seljfik country close to its capital,
Kooia, could not re-iovigorate a people that had lost all individuality and
initiative. ' After these strong emperors decay spread fast : the boast lands
from Clialoodon to the Maeander alone remained Byzantine. Soon the
actual military power of the 8eljAk Turkish 8ultans became very small ;
but the strength of their hold on the country increased as its depopulation
and the dislocation of its agricultural and commercial system became worse.
In the thirteenth century the valleys of the Maeander and Cayster were
ruled by 8eljfik chiefs. After the rise of the Oamanli Turks, 1289, the
disintegration of the empire became more rapid. Nicaea was captured
in 1330. Philadelphia, which had maintained itself as a free city for
nearly a century in Turkish territory by the valour and eneigy of
its citizen traders, was taken in 1389 ; and a few places on the coast
which had been held by Latin valour were lost one by one in the following
years.
The Beyfiks. The appearance of the Seljfik Turks in Western Asia
forms an epoch in the history of the Byzantine Empire no less than in
that of Islam. At that time the vast empire of the Khalifa, weakened by
schism and internal dissensions, had become little more than a collection
• of scattered dynasties bound together by no common interests and paying
but scant respect to the puppet Khalil The Byzantine Empire, on the
• other hand, had extended its limits by tho conquest of Armenia and
Edessa, and exercised paramount influence over many of the Arab Emirs
beyond the border. The rude Turkish nomads who, towards the dose of
the 10th century, had migrated to BukhAra under the guidance of 8eljfik,
adopted Islim with fervour aud gave new life to the dying State. In less
than 40 years from the date (1037) when the Khutbe (public prayer) was
Digitized by L^ooQle
[ 48 ] Introduction . — History.
first said in the pame of Toghrul Bey in the mosques of Nishapur, the
Setyfiks had swarmed over rersia, Mesopotamia, Syria, and Anatolia.
The existing dynasties were suppressed and an empire founded which
extended from the borders of Afghanistan to the shores of the Mediter-
ranean.
Toghrul Bey (1037-63), after having driven the reigning Buyids from
Persia, and made several raids into Armenia (p. 196), entered Baghdad
(1055), where he was invested bv the Khalif el-K&Tm with the. title
* representative of the. Khalif, and protector of the Moslems.** Toghrul
was succeeded by his nephew Alp Arslan (1063-72), who conquered
Iberia, captured Ani, plundered Caesarea, and, in 1071, defeated Romanus
IV. near Melasgerd (p. 231). The defeat of Romanus laid A. Minor open
to the raids of the nomads tnat followed the Seljdk banner,; and they were
not slow to avail themselves of the opportunity, lfelik-shab (1Q72-92)
appointed Suleiman, a great-grandson of Seljfik, to the. command of the
Turkish forces in A. Minor, and so rapid was his. progress that in 1074
Michael V J I. was obliged to sign a treaty ceding to him the territory then
in his possession. In 1080 Suleiman (1074-85) took Nicaea and jnade it
the seat, of his government.. , ,
About the same time a Turkoman chief of the Danishmand family
established himself in Cappadocia, and eventually founded a kingdom
that included Kastamuni, Amasia, Sivas, and Kaisari^eh, and had
Malatia as its capital. During the First Crusade the reigning Danish-
mand, Gupnushtegin, defeated tho Franks and took Bohumund of Antioch
prisoner. The dynasty was extinguished by the Seljfiks of Rfim circ.
1172. . t ,
On the death of Melik-shah, oivil war broke out between bis sons, and
large portions of the empire seceded under different members of the
family. Again, when Siityar (1117-57), the last “ Great, Seljfik ** of the
main line, died, a. number of petty states, : ruled by Atabegs (Seljfik
officers), rose out of the ruins of the Empire. ; In A. Minor Suleiman’s
son, Bifid Kilty Arslan L. (1092-1106), the gallant opponent of the
Crusaders, founded the empire of Bfim, and made Nicaea his capital.
After the fall of Nicaea, his defeat at Dorylaeum, and the temporary loss
of his second capital, Iconium, in 1097, he turned his arms against the
Danishmand ana took Malatia. In 1106 he defeated the Franks and
occupied Mosul, but the same year was drowned in the Khabur River.
Im-ed-din Kilty Arslan IL (1156-88) took Kaisariyeh and Sivas (1172),
and added the Danishmand kingdom to his possessions. In 1188 he
divided his empire between his ten sons— a division which facilitated the
conquest of Iconium by Frederic Barbarossa. The empire was reunited
under Ghiyas-ed-din Xai Xhnsru I.’ (1203-10), who, after reigning for a
short time, had been obliged to take refuge in Lesser Armenia, Trebizond,
and Constantinople. • After taking Adalia and Corycus (12Q6), and
defeating the Byzantines near Amorium (1208), he was killed in battle
by Theodore Lascaris, Emperor of Nicaea. His son Iss-ed-din Xai Xk-fis L
(1210rl9), who was noted for his beauty, his courage, and his intellectual
qualities, after making several conquests, including that of Sinope,, died at
Sivas, where his tomb may still be seen (p. 43).
During the reign of Ala-sd*din Kai Knead I. (1219-36), surnamed “ the
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction. — History . [ 49 ]*
Great*” the empire pasapd through a brief period of great splendour.' It
included Akhlat on the shore of Lake. Van; Urfa and Harran in MesojXK
tamia ; and all A. Minor except the small Greek Empires of Nicaea and
Trebizond. Ala-ed-din, after defeating Jelal-ed-din of Kharezm at Nissi
Chemen (1229), and all hostile combinations, devoted himself to the
improvement of the State. He founded Alaya, on the ruins of Coracesium, .
as his sea-port; fortified the principal towns and adorned (hem with,
mopques, tekkes, and medresses ; restored the old lines of communication
and erected large khans on them for the convenience of travellers; and
built a palace at Konia, of which a few remains ,are left. The advance of
the Mongols, and their ruthless destruction of life and property, forced the
poets, savants, and artists of the countries E. and W. of the Oxus to seek
the protection , of Ala-ed-din. Persian literature and art migrated west-
ward to the court of Rflm. From Bukhlra came Beba-ed-din, the
“ Sultan of the Ulema,* 4 and his greater son, the celebrated mystic poet*
Mevlana Jelal-ed-din, who founded the Order of Movlevi Dervishes.
From Tabriz came the learned sheikhs Shems-ed-din and Burhan-ed-din ;
from Urmia came Sb. Hossam-ed-din ; and from the court of the Khalif
came Sh. ShehAb-ed-din, the highest legal authority of his time. It was
during this reign that the Osmanli Turks first appeared on the scene, and'
that their leader Et-Toghrul ( ErtoghruT) was granted Sugut and bochme
Warden of the N.W. Marches. Ala-ed-din was poisoned at his palace of
Kubadieh , near Erzingan, by his son and snocessor Ohiyas-ed-din Kai
Xhusni IL (1236-46)— -a weak, luxurious prince who was defeated by the
Mongols near Erzinean (1243), and, by the Treaty of 8ivas, acknowledged
the supremacy of Kuyuk Kb An. The independent Empire of Ilfim thus
came to an end. The successors of Ohiyaa-ed-din ruled as vassals of the
Mongol KhAns, and the last, Ala-ed-din Kai Xnbad U. (1297-1307), after
obtaining a few successes over Byzantines and Mongols, was taken prisoner
and put to death by the Mongol general.
The Seljflk Sultana of Rfitn, like the “Great Seljflks” of the' main line,
were liberal patrons of art, literature, and science, and the remains of the’
buildings they erected are amongst the most beautiful and interesting in-
A* Minor. At no period was Moslem art more brilliant The medresses;
with their quiet “ quads,” overlooked by the windows of the students’
apartments, their small mosques, and their fine gateways, are not unlike,
in plan, the colleges at our Universities ; the fortifications, the bridges,'
ana the great khftns, are built with a care and solidity that are almost
Roman ; and the mosques and tombs, though Persian in character, have a*
beauty of their own. Strong Persian influence, is apparent in the freedom
with, which representations of animals, and of the human form, are used in
the decorative details ; and in the employment of glazed bricks of various
colours in the palaces and in the minarets of the mosques. The beautiful
buildings at Konia, Nigdeh, Kaisariyeh, Siva s, Amasia, Divrik, and other
places well deserve the careful study of a trained architect, and the cora-
memorative inscriptions which manv of them bear would, if oopied,
probably throw light on the obscure history of the period. Most of the
inscriptions are in Arabic, and the later Sultans are styled “Mighty
8ultan, Shah of Shahs, roagni6cent King of subject nations, Lord of the
Kings of the Arabs and Persians, Shadow of God in the Universe,” Ac.
The official language was apparently Persian, and thq register of taxes
[Turkey,'] f
Digitized by o^ooQle
[50] Introduction. — History.
was kept in that language until Muhammad Bey of Karaman introduced
the present system of mixed Turkish and Persian words.
Tne advent of the Seljftks effected a c&mplete and lasting change in the'
country. By the introduction of a new language, and new customs, by
the creation of new administrative divisions, and by the ravages of the
nomad tribes, the old nomenclature Was altered and in places effaced, the
manners and customs of the conquered race were profoundly modified, and
the historic connection betweeu ancient and modern Greeks was com-
pletely broken. In some cases the old name was slightly changed, in
others a similarity between the Greek name and a Turkish word deter-
mined the modern form, but ini most the new name had its origin in some
local, tribal, or personal circumstance. The anplication of the names of
the two great rivers of Turkestan, Sihfin and Jinfin, to the Sarus and the
Py ramus is almost the only instance in which the Turks transferred names
from their native country.
The Crusades, . The occupation of A. Minor and Syria by the Selifiks
virtually closed the great pilgrim routo through those countries from
Europe to Jerusalem ; and this was one of the causes that led to the Pint
Crusade. The primary object of the Crusaders was to cross A. Minor on
their wgy to Palestine, and they effected no permanent settlement in the
oountry. The earlier crusades, however, arrested the development, and
prevented the consolidation of the Seljfik Empire of Rfim. The later, on
the other hand, by weakening and almost destroying the Byzantine
Empire, paved the way for the final triumph of the (tananli Turks. The
fint attempt to cross A. Minor ended in the destruction (1096) of Walter
the Penniless and his motley following on the shore of the Isnik Geul.
The second, in 1097, was more successful. Marching from Chalcedon
(Kadi Kcui), the Crusaders, under Godfrey du Bouillon, first attacked
Nicaea ( Ienik ), and, after the fall of that place, continued their advance
by Leucae (Lefkeh). On the 1st July they defeated the Seljflks under
Kilij Arslan at the battle of Dorylaeum, fought apparently near In-tunu ,
and two days later entered Dorvlaeum (Eeki-ththr). They then marched'
to Antioch of Pisidia ( Yalovacn), suffering greatly en route from want of
water, and afterwards occupied Iconium ( Konia ) On reaching Eregli,
detachments under Tancred and Baldwin passed through the Cilician
Gates and occupied Cilicia — Baldwin afterwards proceeding to Edessa,
where he founded a small kingdom (p. 290). The main body under
Godfrey apparently marched by Caesarea and Kemer (Rte. 95) to “ Coxon ”
( Qeuktun ). They then entered the Taurus range, and after experiencing
great hardships, especially in crossing the 44 Mountain of the Devil ” (Dola-
man D .), reached 44 Marasis ” (Marash). Thence they marched by Aleppo
to Antioch.
The expeditions in 1101 ended in disaster. One under Raymond of
Toulouse, after taking Angora and Gangra (p. 10), entered the mountains
of “ Flagania w (Paphlagoniak where they suffered great misery. Borne
reached Kaetamuni t where they were killed, and only a few escaped to
Sinope. Another, under the Cte. de Nevers, marched by Angora to
Icouium, which it failed to take. Eventually it reached Rregli , where it
was almost destroyed, — its leader escaping with difficulty to Germani-’
oopolis (Ermenek, p. 176). A third, under the Cte. de Yermandois, after
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction. — History . [5 1 J
taking Ph.lomelium (llyhin) and Salamteh, advanced to Eregli, where it
wak destroyed. The Cte: de Vermandois reached Tarsus mortally wounded,
and was buried in the Ch. of 8. Paul. ,
In 1145, Conrad m., Emperor of Germany, marched from Nicaea and
advanced southward, but was misled by his Greek guides, and returned
after toeing nearly the whole of his army. In the same year Louis VIL of
France crossed the Bosporus, and, after following the coast road as far os
Muholkh , turned inland to Pergamura. Thence he marched by Smyrna
and Ephesus to Laodicea ; and whilst crossing the Baba D . (II to. 42) was
attacked by the Seljfiks and nearly lost his lift*. After suffering great
hardships, Louis reached Adalia, where he embarked for Syria, leiving
behind him o vet* 7000 ntori who perished in an attempt to follow the land
route.
In 1187 Frederic Barbarolsa * crossed the Dardanelles from Gallipoli to
Lampeacus, aud marched via Pergamum, Sardis, and Philadelphia to
Laodiced. Beyond Laodicea he was attacked almost daily by the Seljfik
Turks, but, forcing his way by the sources of the Maeander and PhUome-
lium, he entered Iconium after gaining a decisive victory before its walls.
After reaching Larandfi (Karaman\ he crossed the Taurus Mts., and was
drowned in the Calycadhus (Qeuk Su) on the march to Sdefhe. His
force was hospitably received by the Armenians of Lesser Armenia, and a
remnant eventually reached Acre, then being besieged by Hichard, Coeur
de Lion, and Philip Augustus.
Lesser Armenia. About 1180, after the murder of Gagig, last Armenian
King of Ani (p. 196), bnc of his relations, Biropen, established himself at
Pardserpert, a mountain fastnert N. of Sis, and founded a small principality
in thfc h6art of the Cilldim Taurus. The boundaries were gradually
extended to the Mediterranean, and the territory, ruled at first by
Thalcators, or Barons, ind afterwards by Kings, was known in the Middle
Ages as Leiber Armenia . The State, exposed to attack from Byzantines,
Seljfik*,* and Arabs, had a stormy existence of about 300 years under a
series 6f warlike kings. Its limits were constantly changing — sometimes
they included the wholS of Cilicia, sometimes they were confined to the
mountain districts that fringe the plain. Gosdantin I., Constantine
(1095-1100), assisted the Crusaders on their march to Antioch ; and his
•on Thom L, Theodore (1100-23), formed an alliance with the Latin
princes of Syria, wh6 : assisted him in his wars with the Byzantines aud
Seljfiis.'; LSvon I., Led (1124-41), was carried prisoner to Constantinople
by John Cotnnedus (1137), and died in captivity. Thorn H. (1U4-68)
repeatedly defeated both the Seljfiks and By&ntines, and drove the latter
out of tiilicia. Biropen IL (1174-85) took Tarsus, and extended the
kingdom, t jy oonquests from Byzantines, Seljfiks, and Arabs. Leo n.,
M the Great" (1185-1219), Was crowned king at Tarsus (1198) by the
Archbishop of Mavence, and won victories oVer the Seljfiks and the Sultan
of Aleppo. Ill 1243 Haithion t., Hethum (1224-69), sent a contingent,
under the command of his father, the Grand Baron Constantine, to the
army with which Ghiyas-ed-din of Rfim marched against the Mongols,
and Constantine was one of those whj signed tho Treaty qf Siva* (1243),
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[ 52 ] Introduction.— History.
after the overthrow of the Seljilk Sultan. Soon afterwards Haithon formed
a close alliance with the Mongols, who for many years protected the
Armenians from the growing power of the Memlflks of Egypt. Early in
the 14th century, however, the Persian Mongols, having embraced Isl&m,
abandoned the Armenians to their fate, and Lesser Armenia was con-
stantly invaded by the Turks and Egyptians. On the death of Leo V.
(1320-42), the Armenians chose Johp of Lusignan, a nephew of the king
of Cyprus, as their king, and he was crowned at Sis as Gosdantin iy. At
last the little kingdom succumbed to the attacks of the Memldks; in
1375 Leo YL was carried prisoner to Egypt, and with his death at Paris,
in 1393, the line of Armenian kings ended.
Empire of Trebisond. “ The grandeur of the Empire of Trebisond exists
only in romance.” It was a petty state, stretching along the northern
coast of A. Minor, which was sometimes independent, and sometimes
tributary to Seljhks, Mongols, Tatars, or Turkomans. It was only saved
from early destruction by its unimportance, and the pliability of its
rulers. The Empire was founded by a grandson of ths Byzantine Emperor
Andronious I., Alexias I. (1204-22), who assumed the title of “ Grand
Comnenus.” Alexias had twenty successors, some of whom were allied
by marriage with the chiefs of the Ak and Kara Koyunln, and with the
neighbouring Seljftk and Mongol princes and governors. No important
events mark the history of the empire which ended with the capture of
Trebizond in 1461 by Muhammad IL (see pp. 200, 201).
Genoese and Venetians. During the 13th, 14th, and part of the 16th
oenturies, the coast of A. Minor was studded with Genoese and Venetian
colonies, of which there are numerous traces. The colonies appear to
have been fortified trading-posts, some large, others small, which exercised
more or less influence over the neighbouring districts. When the
Aoalems were weak and disunited the Latin merchants extended the
soundaries of their territories. . As the Osmanli power became consoli-
dated, the importance of the Latin colonies decreased, and after the
capture of Constantinople by Muhammad II., the trading-poets were
gradually abandoned. The occupation of the S. coast must, judging from
the remains, have been for many years of a fairly permanent character.
The Mongols. The Mongol invasion originated in an appeal for assist-,
ance from the Khalif en-Nasir against the Shah of Kharezm who,
having adopted the heresy of Ali, had determined to put an end to the
Abbasido Khalifat e. In 1219 the Shah was defeated by Jenghis Xh&n,
and after a long war his son, Jelal-ed-din, was driven into the Kurdish
mountains where he was murdered (1231). The Mongols now overran
Mesopotamia, Georgia, and Armenia, and in 1243, after defeating Qhiya9-
ed-din, the Sultan of Rflm, they sacked Tokat and Gaesarea. Ghiyas ed-
din, under the Treaty of Sivas, became tributary to the Mongol Kh&n;
and in the same year the Emperor of Trebizona, Bohemund of Antioch,
and Hethum of Leaser Armenia submitted. In 1258 Hutagu. who had
been sent by his brother, Manga Kh&n, to conquer the West, took
Baghdad and killed the Khalif. In 1259 he marched from Tabriz to
Akhlat, and thence to Diarbekr, J ox ire, Nisi bin, and Urfa. In 1260 he
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Introduction. — History. [63]
took MalaUa, Membij, and Aleppo, and received the submission of
Damascus. At Aleppo he heard of bis brother’s death, and returning to
Persia founded the dynasty of the Ilkhkna. The country overrun by the
Mongols was wasted and impoverished, but the Christians were not
unkindly treated, and Hulagu and other leaders had Christian wives.
Turkdman dynasties. The Mongols who had destroyed the Empires of
the Kbarezmidn 8hahs, the Khalifa, and the Selj&ks, were too weak to
govern the countries they had ravaged. In 1277 tlicir power in A.
Minor and N. Syria was rudely shaken by Sultan Bibars of Egypt, who
defeated a Mongol army on the plain of Albistan, aoH captured Caesarea
on his return march to Damascus. They were soon obliged to abandon
the western 'districts to the chiefs of the Turkoman hordes, or to the
provincial governors of the Selj&k Sultan. In Persia and in E. Anatolia
there arose the Turkoman dynasties of Ak Xoyunlu, Kara Xoyunlu, and
Bamaian Oghlu. These dynasties, after temporary submission to Tim for,
extended their sway, and Hum Hassan, chief of the Ak Koyunlu, ruled
from Khorasfcan to Karaman, when he was vanquished in Terjan (1473)
by Muhammad IL
SeJJkk Provisoes. When Ala-ed-din, the last Sultan of Rfira, died
(1307), the empire was divided into ten parts, each independent of the
other. The provinces* in most cases, took* the names of their chiefs, and
these names are still those of Turkish vildyets add sanjaks. Karati ruled
in Mysla; Sant Khan in Lydia; Aidin in Moeonia; Mente»he\ n Carla;
Tekke in Lycla and Patnphylia; Hamid in Pisidiaahd Isauria ; Mahmftd ,
of the Karaman family, in Lycaonia ; Otman in Qnlatia and Uithynia ;
Kermian in Phrygia; and Ghost Chdebi , of the Seljftk royal line, in Paphla-
gonia. The only provinces that deserve special notice are those of
Karaman and Osirtan. M
Karamaala. In the reign of Ala-ed-din I. of llfttn (1219-36), Nur Soft,
an Armenian by birth, and later one of the most fanatical followers of
Sheikh Baba Elias, established himself at Konia. His son Karaman
(1223-46) won the favour of the Sultan, who gave him hia sister in
marriage, made him governor of Selefke, and granted him Laranda
(Karaman). Bedr-ed-din MmkmM (1279-1319), grandson of Karaman,
established himself at Brmenek, and, on the final break up of the Seljfik.
Empire, consolidated his power in Karaman ia. The capital was moved
first to Karaman and then to Konia. Takhthi and Ala-ed-din were
engaged in a long struggle for supremacy with the Osmanlis until the
latter was defeated (1392) by Bayezid I., and afterwards hanged. The
dynasty was restored by. Timfir (1402), and the province retained its
independence until 1472, when it was finally annexed by the Oumanlis. •
The Osmanlis at first extended their territory at the expense of the
Byzantines (tee Handbook to Constantinople \ Orkhan, it is true, annexed ,
Karas! (1336), and Murad L defeated the ruler of Kararoania; but it was
not until the reign of Bayetld l that the reduction of the petty states was
seriously taken in hand. By 1392 all had been subdued, and by 1400 the*
frontier of the Osmanlis had been pushed forward to Erzingan and Malatia.
Two years later, however, Bayezid was defeated and made prisoner by
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[54] Introduction. — History .
Tim&r. The campaigns of Timflr have left lasting murks on Meso-
potamia, N. Syria* and E. and W. Anatolia. Ably planned and vigorously
conducted, they were carried out with a ruthless disregard for life and
property, and were attended by wholesale massacres of the Christian
communities. Large districts were depopulated and abandoned to the
nomads, and many flourishing towns were so completely destroyed that
they have never since recovered. One of the most interesting features in
his campaigns is the extensive use which he made of naphtha, or petroleum,
in his battles (“slingers of naphtha " were employed in the tight with
Bayezid), and especially in the mining operations of his numerous sieges.
Places which had previously been considered impregnable quickly fell
before his skill and impetuosity. In 1386 he marched from Tabtf? to
Tiflis and conquered moet of Trans-Caucasia. In 1387 he advanced by
Bayezld to Erzerflm, and thence marched to the plain of Mush. • He then
took Akhlat, and Adeliivas ; and after marching round Lake Van to Vao,
returned to Tabriz by Selmas and Urmia. In his next campaign (1393-4)
he marched from It hey, near Tehrftn, to Burujird, Khoram-abad, Disful,
and Shusrar (see Rte. 116) ; and on the 5th September, 1393, reoeived
the submission of Baghdad. On his march northward he took Tekrit,
Krbil, Mosul, Edessa, Mardin, Diarbekr, and other towns ; and in the early
summer of 1394 he returned to Persia by Mush, Akhlat, Uch Kilisse, and
Kars.
Timilr’s next advance was in 1400, by Erzerflm and Erzingan, to Sivas,
the capture of which was followed by a massacre (p. 43). His march was
continued by Malatia, Besne, A in tab, Aleppo (where he defeated the Syro-
Egyptian army, 27th October, 1400), Homs, and Baalbek, to Damascus,
where he won a decisive victory over the Sultan of Egypt, 3rd February,
1401. After ravaging the country as far as Acre, and pillaging Damascus,
he returned to Homs, whence detachments were sent against Antioch and
Palmyra ; he then passed through Hama and Aleppo, burning both, and
crossed the Euphrates at Birejik. From the river he marched through
Urfa, Mardin, Nisibin, and Mosul (where he crossed the Tigris) to
Baghdad. After sacking the last city as a punishment for its revolt, he
retired to Tabriz.
On the 15th of February, 1402, Timilr broke up his winter quarters on
the banks of the Araxes, and marched by Erzerflm to Erzingan, where,
after storming Kemakh, he completed his arrangements for the campaign
against Bsyezid 1. Marching by Sivas, Kaisariyeh, and Kir-shehr, where
he first came in contact with the Turkish outposts, he pushed forward to
Angora, and overthrew and captured the Osinaoli Sultan on the plain of
Chibuk Ova (p. 10). After the battle Timfir marched to Sivri-hiKsar and
Kutaya, whilst his armies spread over Anatolia from the Black Sea to the
Mediterranean and wasted and plundered the country to the shores of the
Bosporus, the Dardanelles, and the Aegean. From Kutaya 'J'iroflr
marched by Aidiu, and Ephesus to Smyrna, which he took and pillaged
(p. 72). His return march was by Egirdir, Olu-borlu, Ak-shehr, where
Bsyezid died, Kaisariyeh and Sivas to Erzerfim. From Erzerflm ha
marched through Kars to Georgia, whence, after a short cani|*aign, ho
proceeded to Kazviu iu Persia.
0— nulls, Timflr restored the dynasties of the imall states that had
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Introduction.— The People • [ 55 ]
submitted to Bayezid, but no sooner had be passed into Persia than they
began to assert their independence. The whole country was in disorder.
Nomad Turkomans, Mongols, and Tatars swarmed over the country, and
every petty prince endeavoured to extend his territory at the expense of
his neighbour. After a long struggle Muhammad I. (1413-21) succeeded
in restoring the supremacy of the Osmanlis ; and under his successor,
Murad n. (1421-51), all the states excepting Karamania were annexed.
This state was added to the empire by Muhammad IL (1451-81), who also
took Trebizond, and, by his victory over Uznn Hassan, chief of the Ak
Koyunlu, advanced the frontier to Erzingan and the Euphrates.
Selim L (1612-20), in his campaign against Persia, marched by Konia,
Raisariyeh, 8ivas, and Erzingan, and, after defeating 8hah Ismail near
Khoi, entered Tabriz in triumph. He afterwards overthrew the Meml&k
Sultan of Egypt on the plain of Geuksun, and marched through Syria to
Egypt. As a result of nis campaigns Syria, Egypt, Armenia, Kurdistan,
8. Azerbijan, and Diarbekr, Nisi bin, and Jezire in N. Mesopotamia, were
added to the empire. Suleiman L (1520-66), in the first of his campaigns
against Persia, marched by the Konia-Erzerfira route to Tabriz, and
thence by Hamadan to Baghdad, which, with Mosul and all Anatolia be
annexed. Murad IE (1674-96) marched to Tiflis and conquered Georgia
and N. Azerbijan, and Murad IT. (1623-40) retook Baghdad, which had
(alien into the hands of the Persians during the previous reign, as well as
Azerbijan and other territories.
The Russian conquests in Georgia and Armenia during the 19th ccnty.
are noticed in Sect. II. (p. 198). The earlier annexations were followed
by the rebellion of Muhammad Alt , the Vali of Egypt, whose son
Ibrahim, alter taking Acre (27th May, 1832), defeated the l urks at Homs,
Beilan, and Konia, and advanced to Kutaya. The victorious march of
the Egyptians was stayed by European intervention, and peace was
concluded by the grant of a firman (6th May, 1833), under which
Muhammad Aii became Governor not only of Egypt and Crete but of
Palestine, Syria, and Adana. An attempt 'on the part of the Sultan to
drive the Egyptians out of Egypt ended in the defeat of the Turks at
Ui*ib (26th June, 1839) ; but in the following year the European Powers
compelled Muhammad Ali to surrender his conquests. For seven years
the Egyptians governed the occupied countries firmly and well, and there
are stm many traces of their occupation.
Before the Egyptian insurrection Mahmfid n. (1808-39) had nnJer-
taken the suppression of the Derc Beys, the hereditary local chiefs who
had made themselves petty princes in almost every province of the
empire. The reduction of these insubordinate feudatories in Anatolia
was not effected without some struggles and frequent insurrections. The
issue of the Hatti Sherif of Giil-khftneh by Sultan Abdul Mqjid in 1839
marks the commencement of a new era which, in spite of were, jolitical
intrigues, and those disorders that arise during periods of transition, has
been one of fairly continuous though slow progress.
{ 11 . The People.
The population of the Empire is composed of a multitude of discordant
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{ 56 ] Introduction . — The People : Moslems.
element!. — rival races, rival sects, and rival interests. According to race
the people are Turks (Osmanlis, Seljftks, Turkomans, Yuruks, Tatars, &c.),
Albanians, Arabs, Armenians, Circassians, Georgians, Greeks, Jews,
Kurds, Lazis, Slavs (Bulgarians and Serbek Syrians, Wallacha, and other
races. According to religion , the official classification, they are Moslems,
Christians, and Jews. The Moslems are in a majority in Asiatic, the
Christians in European, ‘ Turkey ; the Jews live at Constantinople, in
Palestine, in N. Mesopotamia, and in the large sea-port towns. Most of
the Moslems in European Turkey are of the same races as the Christians,
being descendants of Albanians, Greeks, and 81a vs who in former times,
either from policy or fear, embraced Islim. In Asia also a majority of
the Moslems are descendants of the original inhabitants. '
(a) Moslems .
The Tarks are of Turanian descent and ethnographically belong to the
same race as the Finns, Samoyedes, Tungus, Manchus, &c. Their
conquest of Anatolia has already been noticed.
History. — 8ome settled down in the towns and villages, and hold
lands as military fiefs, whilst others, such as the Yuruks, the Avshars,
and the Turkomans, retained their nomadic state. Isiter the wave of
Tatar conquest left behind it many Tatar colonies; and tho Turkish
8ultons, during their wars with Persia, forcibly transplanted many Shias
of Turkish origin from that couutry to the Sivas viliyet, where their
descendants are knowu as Kizilhtish, 44 red heads.**
As Turkish rule became consolidated, large numbers of tho conquered
people embraced Islim, and this change of religion became more marked
when the Osroanlis seized Christian children to form the corps of
Janissaries. When a Greek or Armenian adopted Islim he became a
44 Turk/* and, as a result of constant intermarriage between the victors
and the vanquished, the Osmanlis have almost entirely lost their original
race characteristics. In Anatolia every variety of type may be seen from
the purest Mongolian amongst the nomads to the finest Caucasian
amongst the landed gentry. In many places the villagers are un-
mistakably of Greek, in others of Armenian origin, aud in others they
are clearly the representatives of the tribes that occupied the country in
pre-historic times. The Turk of Stamb&l is a wonderful mixture of the
East and the West, and, frequently, dress alone distinguishes him from a
native of Southern Europe. . ,
The Turk is good-natured and honest, brave and self-sacrificing. He
is kiud-hearted aud rarely refuses a request directly. His h«>spitality is
great, and the exercise of charity is one of his greatest pleasures, tin ! is
kind to those under him, and incapable of giving pain to animals. He
makes up his mind slowly, and his apathy and fatalism leave no room for
strong emotions. From boyhood he is calm and serious, and even in
anger he never loses his gravity and dignity. He is a keou observer,
ana never forgets or forgives humiliation, injustice, or want of respect,
though at the time ho may conoeal his feelings under the mask of
indifference or friendship, lie is a man of few words, but not wanting in
good sense or mother wit. Keenly sensible of ridicule himself he delights
in ridiculing an adversary. Ue has a great regard for right and custom
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Introduction. — The People : Modem [57]
(adet), and for ancient lineage. Careless and indolent by nature the Turk
often gives himself up to that dreamy state of gratification which he calls
kef; and he raises money, at high rates of interest, for his immediate
Wants without taking thought for the morrow. He is too proud to work
more than is necessary to obtain a living, and is wanting in enterprise,
speculative spirit, and capacity for business. He does not undersUnd
laying but a portion of his capital on the chance of doubling it in a few
years. He is proud of his religion and punctual in the performance of his
religious duties, and despises unbelievers and everything that is not
Tnrkish. In the country be is sn agriculturist, a tiller of the land, and a
breeder of stook; in the towns he is a seller of native manufactures,
saddler, cobbler, smith, coppersmith, carpenter, tanner, weaver, and
dyer.’ His religion prohibits him from being a banker (aon^).. He is no
sailor, but a good soldier, mule, or camel driver.
The Turkish peasant is physically a fine, powerful man, and where
civilisation, with its accompanying vices and deterioration, has not
penetrated he is brkve, sober, patient, frugal, and capable of great
endurance. He is a faithful servant, submissive to authority, and
devotedly loyal to the Bultan. He is not naturally fanatical, and except
when excited by religions teaching, he is kindly disposed towards bis
Christian neighbours. He is uneducated, indolent, and apathetio ; dislikes
Innovations, and pertinaciously follows in the footsteps of bis ancestors.
His wants are few, and if he can supply these, clothe himself, and board a
little money for his daughter's portion he is satisfied. His chief relaxation
Is the gcjssrfp of the village hahveh. The secluded life of the women acts
on their intelligence; they arc not oducated themselves and do not care
to educate their children.
The townsman is less liberal and moro fanatical than the peasant who
he despises as a boor. In many towns he is either an official (memtfr), or
lives on the earnings of a relation who is an official, and local politics is bis
constant preoccupation. He does not object to venality, and is noi desirous
of reform. The officials have little sympathy with the people they govern
whether Moslem or Christian. The old feudal Beys, some of whom could
trace their descent from the lords of the soil in pre-Islamic davs, were as
a rule good landlords : their descendants have mostly been ruined in the
attempt to keep up a state they had not the wealth to maintain. ,
IslA knows no division of classes, and life is essentially democratic.
There is no hereditary nobility, and there are few family names. A Turk
has one name corresponding to our Christian name, and he is distinguished
by the name of his father, the place of his birth, or some personal pecu-
liarity. inferior*, however, show great deference to superiors. An inferior,
if invited to sit* down, seats himself at a long distance from hi* superior
and addresses him in stilted phrases. When two Moslems meet the
greeting is Salam Aleikum — 44 Peace be with thee," and the reply is Aleikum
SaldiH — 44 On thee be peace." At greeting a Turk brings the light hand to
the breast, and then to the forehead. To uncover the head is bad manners.
Men and women wear overshoes, which are removed on entering a house.
When paying a visit strict etiquette is observed, and any breach of the
unwritten rules by which it is governed is considered a mark of tad
breeding.
Although the Kurftn allows four legitimate wives, the cost of keeping
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[ 58 ] Introduction. — The People: Moslems.
up four establishments is so great that monogamy is the rule. A Turl*
marries early, or buys a slave who, if she hears a child, is freed, and becomes
a legitimate wife. Marriage is a civil ceremony performed by the Kadi,
and the festivities last three days. Sons remain in the harem till their
8th or 10th year, and are much petted ; daughters until their marriage.
Circumcision (sunnet), though not mentioned in the Kur&n, is regarded as
a divine rite. It takes place between the 8th and 13th year, and after it
the son leaves the harem. Wealthy people usually have a number of
poor children circumcised with their son, and these children are afterwards
looked upon as the son’s foster-brothers. Divorce is easy ; a man has only
to say to his wife “ I divorce you,” but he has to return her dowry and
carry out any pecuniary arrangements made for her support at marriage.
The home life is very formal. The wife never calls her husband by nis
name; but addresses him as Effendi, Bey, &c. The children call their
father babaeffendim ; they never sit down in Ills presence without per-
mission, ana always accompany him to the door when he leaves the house.
The position of the wife in the house is a subordinate one, she cannot eat
at the same table with her husband without permission, and never goes out
with him. Qn the other hand the wife, by law and custom, has certain
rights which the husband is bound to respect. She is mistress of the
house and can go in and out when she pleases. If she be of superior birth
or wealth, the husband sometimes has a bad time of it The wives of
Ministers and high officials hold receptions of ladies, and often exercise an
influence in politics and in the filling up of appointments. The wife of a
rich man spends much of the day at home iu idleness. When she leaves
the harem to go to the bath, or oazdr, or to visit a friend, she puts on the
yathmak, which leaves only the eyes free, and the ferije 9 an armless
mantle which completely conceals the figure. In Constantinople and
Smyrna, the yashmak is now no more than a gauze veil, and the Jerije is
often a rich silk mantle. r i*he women wear silk trowsers, a vest, and a
girdle. In the interior yellow leather socks are worn, but they are gradu-
ally being displaced by high-heeled French shoes. The nails, lingers, toes,
hollow of the hand, and sole of thq foot are stained with henna t and the
eyebrows darkened with kohl.
A man's dress varies with his position. An official wears a black cloth
frock coat ( $tambulina) t buttoned up to the throat, cloth trowsers, a white
cotton skull-cap, and a fez ( iarbush ). In the house a short wadded coat
or a. long dressing-gown is worn.
Slavery, of which there are several degrees, still exists, but open Blave-
m&rkets have been abolished. The slaves are well treated ; they are
regarded as part of the family, and their children are brought up like those
of their master. A male slave is usually freed after seven to nine years'
faithful service, and once freed be can rise to any rank— some have become
Grand Viziers. A femile slave becomes free on marriage to a free man.
The seclusion ot the women has necessitated a peculiar construction of
the dwelling-house (ev), which whether of stone, wood, or mud, is always
divided into the haremlik , or women's apartments, and the selamlik , in
which visitors are received. Into the harem no one enters but the husband,
the children, the doctor, eunuchs, and very old servauts. In the towns
the lower portions of the windows are closed with lattice-work ( [ka/ess ),
through which the inmates, whilst concealed themselves, can see all that
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Introduction . — The People : Modems. [69]
is going on. In the larger towns the houses are now heated by stores,
but mangels (charcoal braziers) and tanddrs (tables covered by cloths
beneath which are mangals) are still used in the interior. The family
sit round the tanddr, putting their feet under the cloth.
Near the coast European furniture is coming into use, but as a rule the
houses are poorly furnished according to Western ideas. A divan, covered
with carpets, runs round the walls of the room, and there are a few
stands for lamps, &c., low tables for coffee-cups, and sometimes a
clock. In summer the floors are covered with straw mats, in winter with
carpets. At night beds are unrolled and laid on the floor. At meal-times
a large round tray is brought in and placed on a low table, and round this
the eaten squat or sit on low stools. The dinners in the houses of the
wealthy generally consist of about 20 courses — fish, sweets, and meat
appearing at uncertain intervals. Water and sherbet are drunk at dinner,
but it is a common custom to drink raki before commencing the meal.
Knives and forks are gradually being introduced, but the usual habit is to
dip the right hand or a spoon into the dish, the highest in rank com-
mencing. To use the left hand is an insult to the host. After dinner a
basin and jug are brought in for the washing of hands and then follow
pipes and coffee.
A Turk on rising in the morning takes a cup of black coffee. About
eleven he has a substantial breakfast, and about seven he dines. Turkish
cooking is good but coarse. Vegetables, rice, pepper, onions, sugar, milk,
and honey are freely used. Game, fish, and shell-fish are rarely seen ; pig's
flesh never. Bread is largely eaten ; near the coast it is white and pood,
but inland, dampers (/did) are eaten. Cakes with sesame seeds are highly
esteemed. Some of the favourite dishes, pddf, kebab , dolma , yadrt ,
kaimdk, helva, kata if, Ac* have been already noticed, p. [13], others are
kapama (a ragout of fowl\ croquettes of cheese or minced meat, chicken’s
breast pulped and mixea with milk, rice and milk, baklava (a tart with
honey and almonds), pears, apples, &c., mixed with pekmes ( thickened
grape juice), and rahatlakum, made from figs, sugar, and gum Arabic.
Tobacco and coffee play a large part in the social life of the Turk.
Cigarettes (sigdra) have now in most towns taken the place of the pipes
with long stems which were formerly handed to visitors by the chibuJcjis
(pipe-men). Coffee is made by pounding the berries, and putting the
pounded coffee into a small quantity of boiling water ; it is then boiled
up twice, and a few drops of cold water are added to settle the grounds.
It is served in cups (finjan), which are placed in holders (zarf) of silver
or porcelain. It is usually drunk without sugar or milk. The narghileh
(hubble-bubble) is more, common in many places than the pipe. The
tumbaki smoked in it is first damped and squeezed. A nut or flower is
often placed in the water vessel. Esrdr (Indian hemp), which stupefies
and intoxicates, is mixed as a powder with tobacco, or taken as an
electuary. J Hashish is a cake composed chiefly of esrdr ; a little is said to
deaden pain, and to fit a man for hard work. Afitim (opium) is either
smoked or taken as an electuary. It is now little used, and no opium
houses are allowed to be open.
In every large town there are public baths (hammdm) with the usual
dressing, cold, and hot rooms. They are not always clean. Most of the
bath attendants are Armenians. Ibe law forbids any one to go out after
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[ 60 ] Introduction. — The People : Moslems.
dark without a lantern, except in streets which are lighted with gas. The
custom is regarded as a police measure to show who are thieves and who
are honest men.
Religion. — The fundamental principles of el-Iti&m , the Moslem creed,
as set forth in the Kur&n, are: — (1.) Belief in Allah, the only God, to
whom Moslems apply 99 epithets, called el-Asm&ii-’l-Husna, the 44 Beautiful
Names.” Nearly every Moslem carries a rosary of 99 beads to aid him
in the pious recitation of the epithets. (2.) Belief in the Angels who
are called the “ Messengers,*’ because they convey messages horn God.
On each side of every man stands a recording angel, one to write down his
good, the other his bad deeds, and a Moslem, on ending his pravers, turns
his face to the right and left to greet them. Two angels, Naktr and
Munlear, visit every man in his grave to examine him respecting his faith in
the Prophet. The archangels are Jibril (Gabriel), Mikal (Michael), Azrail
the Angel of Death, and lsraftl , who is to sound the last trump on the
Day of Judgment. The devil, Hits or esh-Sheit&n , is a fallen angel. Besides
angels there are Jinn (Genii), who hold a mid-place between men and angels,
and of whom many fables arc told. (3.) Belief in the Boohs and the Fro -
phets. Clod has in divers times given revelations of His will to His Prophets.
These revelations number 104, of which 10 were given to Adam, 50 to
8eth, 30 to Idris (Enoch), and 10 to Abraham. The remaining 4, — the
Old Testament, the Psalms, the Gospel, and the Kur&n, — were delivered
successively to Moses, David, Christ, and Muhammad. The terms Nebi
(prophet) and Basiil (apostle) are applied indiscriminately to the patri-
archs and prophets of old, According to tradition there have been 124,000
prophets. (4.) Belie/ in a general Resurrection and final Judament.
On the Last Day Christ will establish Islim as the universal faith, and
with Him will re-appear the 12th Im&m (el-Mahdi). Then, Isr&fll having
sounded the two trumps which will kill the living and quicken the dead,
every man will be judged according to the books kept by his recording
angels. Heaven and hell, — the former a paradise of purely voluptuous
gratification for the good, the latter a realm of appalling torment for the
bad, — are both places of many mansions. (6.) Belitf in the decrees of
God, who has predestined both good and evil. 44 Verily God misleadeth
whom He will, and guideth whom He will.” (Stir. xxxv. 9.)
The five Cardinal Ordinances qf Islam are : — (1.) The pious recital of
the K&lima, Lq ilaha illa-llah wa- Muhammad Rasdlu-Uah, 44 There is
no Deity but the one God, and Muhammad is His Apostle.” (2.) Prayer
(jsal&t) is enjoined as seasonable and proper at all times. There are four
set times of prayer, but in common usage a fifth is added,— dawn, midday,
afternoon, sunset, evening. Prayer should always be preceded by ablu-
tion ; the ritual of ablution is very minute, and the various sects of Isl&m
have different modes of procedure. The person praying must remove his
shoes, and turn towards a fixed point ( hiblah ), — the Kaabah at Mecca.
The Moslem says his prayers wherever he may be ; whether in his house,
or in the street, or on a journey, he unrolls his prayer carpet, and turning
towards Mecca goes through the prescribed bowings and prostrations.
(3.) Fasting ( es-SaGm ) is enjoined as a pious and meritorious exercise, 1
and in some cases prescribed as a penance. The great obligatory fast is
that of the month of Ramaz&n, during which nothing is allowed to pass
the lips between sunrise aud sunset, and night is turned into day. The
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meal which breaks the daily fast is called UtSr. During the fast, espe-
daily if it falls in the summer months, little work is done. (4.) Legal
an4 obligatory almsgiving, or es -Zakdt, is insisted upon as one of the
essentials of true piety. It should amount to 2$ p. c. of a person’s income.
Charity to the poor is also enjoined, and is given without ostentation. The
construction or public drinking fountains (eebU). is regarded as an act
pleasing to God. (6.) The pilgrimage to Mecca (Haj) should be. made by :
every Moslem during the three appointed months.
There are two great sects of el-IslAm, the Sunnis (from $ unno, tradition),
and the Shias (from Shia, sect). The Sunnis, or orthodox Moslems, are
divided into four sects, — Hanantes, Hanbalites, Malekites, and 8hafi r ites,
— established during the rule of the Abbaside Khalifa, and namod after
their founders, Abu Hanifa, Ibn Hanbe), Malik, and ShafTi. The Turks
are nearly all Sunnis. The Shias (p. 285) introduced the practioe of
giving the Kurin an allegorical interpretation. In their religious ideas
the faith of the ancient Persians, and Dualism, Gnosticism, and Mani-
chaeism are reflected. The Persians and many. Kurdish tribes are,
8hias.
In less than two centuries after the Flight pure mysticism or St^fiim
was founded and spread rapidly in Persia. "The key-note of the system
is that the human soul is an emanation from God, and that it is always
seeking and yearning to rejoin the source from which it sprung. Ecstasy
is the means by which a nearer intercourse is obtained ; total absorption
iu the divinity the ultimate object to be obtained." Sufiism is represented
by the , { .
Dervishes, who put an esoteric interpretation on the Kurftn, and the
collected sayings of the Prophet, and dispense with the formalities of the
mosque. The originators of the first Orders had some difficulty in intro-
ducing the novelty, being restrained by the precept, "There is no monas-.
tidsm in IsUtn." Asceticism and fanaticism, however, developed rapidly,
and the dervishes astonished people by their austerities, their violent
exercises, and their self-laceration. The early dervishes renounced their
worldly goods to give them to the poor; now a poor man becomes a
dervish to earn a living by alms. The dervishes have the right to speak
openly, and to follow tne army, Kurin in band, to encourage the soldiers.
There were thirty-two founders of Orders who rivalled each other in their
strange and extravagant customs. The best known are the Mevlevi, or
Dancing Dervishes, whose head-quarters are at Konia (p. lSfl) ; the Rufat,
or Hewing Dervishes (see Handbook to Constantinople ) ; and the Bektash
Dervishes, who for several centuries were so intimately connected with
the Janissaries (p. 55). The mystic rites of the Mevlevi and Rufil aim
at the production of the ecstatio state in whioh the soul enters the world
of dreams, and becomes one with God. The dervishes live in tekkes
presided over by Sheikhs, who represent the ynr, or founder of the Order,
and they acknowledge no authority but that of their spiritual chief. The
wandering dervishes are classed as those who travel by order of their
superior to beg (eeifya), and those who have no fixed abode (Kalender).
Mosques are used for prayer, preaching, and teaching. No religious
oeremonies are performed in them. "Owing to the almost complete
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[ 62 ] Introduction. — The People : Modems
absence of ritnal in Moslem worphip, the mosque in its earlier form is one
of the simplest of all religious buildings, — its normal arrangement being
an open court (saAn), surrounded by a covered cloister (litvdn), in the
centre of which is a fountain for the ablutions requisite before prayers ;
the side of the mosque which is towards Mecca is occupied hy a roofed
building (maksura) or place reserved for prayer." In the centre of the
building is the mthrab , which marks the direction of the Kibtak (Mecca),
and beside it is the pulpit ( mimber ). In front of the pulpit is a raised
platform ( dakka), from which exhortations are given, and near it are
lecterns, from which portions of the Kur&n are read. At one or more
oomers of the court or the building are minarets, from which the muezzin i
coll the faithful to prayers. The greatest possible splendour, both of
material and workmanship, was often lavished on the building externally
and internally.
Considerable diversity exists in the plans of mosques in various parts
of the Empire. In Anatolia the simplest form is a rectangular or square
chamber covered by a dome ; and from this there is every variety up to
the great mosques at the capital. The Seljflk mosques show traces of
Persian and Sassanian influence, and are remarkable for the elaborate
beauty of many of the decorative details and for the large use of coloured
glased bricks and tiles. The grouping of the mosque and its surrounding
buildings, — imarets % medreuee, tomb chambers, &c. — is sometimes as at
Konia, highly artistic. The early Osmanli mosques also show traces of
Persian influence, excepting the mosaue of Murad I., at Brflsa, which is
almost in the style of contemporary Italian Gothic. The later mosques
are more or leas copies of 8. Sophia at Coustautiuople. The care of the
poor is obligatory on the mosques, and near them are soup kitchens
(imdrets), hospitals, guest houses, and sometimes lunatic asylums.
Attached to the mosques are also schools ( mekteb ), colleges (medresse), and
libraries (< kitab-khanch ).
Education is in a backward state, but efforts have been made to improve
it in recent years. There are now primary schools in which boys and
girls are taught reading, writing, and the Kurftn; secondary schools in
which the instruction is more advanced ; higher schools in which Arabic,
Persian, history, geography, arithmetic, geometry, and sometimes French
are taught; aud colleges such as the Galata Serai at Constantinople.
The schools have not met with much success, owing to the unwillingness
of parents to have their children taught in them. The best educated
men have received their instruction in Europe, and mostly in Paris.
For language and vocabulary, see Handbook to Constantinople
Kurds. — The Kurds proper are of Median origin, and belong to the
Indo-European family; they are consequently, notwithstanding their
antagonism, akin to the Armenians. They are the same people as the
Gardu of the Assyrian inscriptions, and the Carduchi of Xenophon ; and
their name appears in that of Qordyene^ which was applied to the district
which they inhabited and in which they still live. The Mamakanli
Kurds are said to be descended from the Armenian Mamigonians. In the
Denim the Dersimlis are apparently descended from the original popula-
tion, whilst the Hassananlu originally came from Khorassan.
The Kurds first came under Turkish rule as a result of the campaign
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Introduction. — The People: Moslems. [63]
of Selim L C 1612-20) against Persia ; and the annexed districts were
organised ana successfully governed by Edrisi, the historian, who was a
Kurd of Bitlis. At that time the rich arab'e and pastoral lands between .
Brzerflm and Erivan, wasted for more than four centuries by nomad
Turks, Mongols, and Tatars, were almost deserted, and Edrisi forcibly
resettled them with Kurds from the Hakkiari and Bohtan districts. This
policy was continued by 'Selim’s successor, and Kuids are now found as
far N. as a line from Divrik, through Erzerflm, to Kars and Erivan.
Afterwards the Kurdish Beys became practically independent, and it was
only in 1834 that the Porte reasserted its authority. Since that time the
Kurils hare been more or less under subjection.
The Kurdish population in Turkey, Persia, and Russia is probably
between 2,000,000 and 3,000,000; and of this about 1,500,000 live in
Turkey. The Kurds are scattered irregularly over the country from
J. Sinjar on the S. to Kars on the N., and from the river Sakarla on the
W. to Lake Urmia on the E. But they are principally grouped in the
mountain districts of Kurdistan (p. 197^. In W. Anatolia they are most
numerous in the tlaimane and Bozuk districts.
The majority of the Kurds are Sunnis, or orthodox Moslems, but many
of the tribes, especially of the Zaza- speaking Kurds, are Shias, — frequently
called Alivis or Knd-hash. The Shias are chiefly found in the Derain),
about Arabkir, and in the districts to the W. ; their faith is a curious,
mixture of Shiism, Paganism, and Christianity (p. [66]). Most of the
Persian Kurds are Sunnis of the strict Shafl sect, ana are bitterly hostile
to the 8hia government of the country. In Turkey a majority of the
Sunnis belong to the SAmo sect, of which the notorious Sheikh Obeid-ullah
was the spiritual chief. Since the suppression of the Beys who built and
supported mosques, a laxity of religious observance has grown Up amongst
the Kurds.
The original organisation of the Kurds was tribal, and they have always
been pastoral and nomadic. The tribes (ashiret) into which they are
divided resemble in many respects the Highland clans of Scotland, and
they are subdivided into numerous septs, very few tribes number more
than 10,000 souls ; the average is about 3000. They often bear simply,
the name of their chief, or of the district in which they dwell, and they
have no bond of union. Sections of the same tribe, living on opposite
sides of the border under different Aghas, are often at war with each other.
The tribes reckon their strength by u gun-men.” The majority of the
Kurds are sedentary and pastoral ( icrli ), and live in the mountain dis-
tricts, where they can grow enough grain for their simple wants, and have
pasture for their flocks. In summer they usually move into standing
camps Often within sight of their winter homes. The nomSd Kurds
(Kosher) pass the summer in the mountains of Kurdistan, entering them
in May and leaving them in October ; in winter t!>ey live 8. of the
mountains near the Tigris, the two Zabs, and the Dials, and in the desert
N. of J. Sinjar, where they purchase right of pasturage from the Bedawin.
Each tribe has its own pasture ground by long established right, and
trespass on adjoining pastures is a fertile source of feud. Several of the
tribes have a very baa reputation, and during the periodical migrations
thd districts passed through are frequently plundered, — Moslem and
Christian suffering alike, in N. Mesopotamia, near Diarbekr, Urfa, and
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[ 64 ] Introduction. — The People : Moslems
Mosul, are many nonrtribal Kurds settled in villages and purely agriculr
turaL They are looked down upon by the nomads, and are locally called
“ Rayahs," a term universally applied to the Christian peasant. Very few
Kurds, and those generally of low origin, live in towns.
The Kurds speak two distinct dialects — Kermanji, an old Persian
patois, with Cbaldaean words, and a certain Turanian element, and Zaza,
a Persian dialect largely intermingled with Armeuiau. The Zara-sneaking
Kurds are chiefly in the Dersim district, and in the vicinity of Kharput,
Mush, and Diarbekr. A third dialect, Quran, more nearly allied to
Persian, is spoken by the Kurds near Karman-ahah. Some ot' the Kurds
in N. Mesopotamia speak Arabic, and some of those in W. Anatolia,
Turkish. Their songs have a weird melancholy sound, produced by re-
petition of the monosyllable “ lo.” When correspondence is necessary
Persian or Arabic is generally used. There are a New Testament in
Kurdish, printed by the American Mission ; a grammar and vocabulary of
the Hakkiari dialect; and a French- Kurdish dictionary published at
St. Petersburg.
The Kurd delights in the bracing air and unrestricted liberty of the
mountains. He is rarely found as a muleteer or camel-man, nor does fie
take kindly to handicraft. He is not wanting in natural intelligence, and
the Turkish proverb “ stupid as a Kurd," if not the outcome pf race
hatred, probably refers to his ignorance and to his unsophisticated nature.
Educated Kurds are usually intelligent, and the race has produced such
men as Salah-ed-din and Edrisi. The men are lithe, active, and strong,
but rarely of unusual stature; heads a trifle small; faces oval; com-
plexion dark ; nose firm and curved ; eyes rather small and long. Pride,
fidelity, and hospitality are race characteristics; and Kurds have the
greatest respect and veneration for their chiefs, who trace their descent
through pure blood aud well-known names for many generations, and are
noted for their pride of ancestry. Their vices are chiefly those of
igoorance. They have rude but strict feelings of honour, and, though
wild and lawless, are not naturally fanatical or cruel. It is only when
excited by their spiritual or temporal chiefs that they become cruel and
barbarous. They carry a dirk, flint-lock rifle, pistol, sword, and sometimes
lance. The women do most of the hard work, and weave woollen carpets
and rugs; they do not veil, and are allowed groat freedom, praying in
public, and conversing freely with strangers. The nomads, who live like
Arabs, are much hardier and more independent than their sedentary
brethren, and have a larger share of Kurdish wealth, — sheep, goats, oxen,
horses, Ac. The Kurd tx>rrows freely from Jew or Christian, and readily
runs into debt ; and the efforts mado by the lenders to collect their debts
often lead to disturbance. He is also much given to brigandage and
levying blackmail ou the Christians. When the Christians fled to the
mountains from Mongols aod Tatars they obtained Kurdish |*rotection
by the paymeut of a tax, in some cases to the chief of a tribe, and in
others to the tribe itself. In the mountains between Mush and Ritlis,
and the Bohtan, these rights are still sometimes asserted by periodical
forays. The Kurd has an innate dislike to military service, and is ever
ready to desert at the first opportunity. The recent attempt to form a
Kurd cavalry force for service in Kurdistan has uot been a success. The
houses and forts of the Beys were stone buildiugs of some architectural
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Introduction . — The People : Motlems. [65
pretensions, but are now chiefly In ruins. The people live in flat-roofed
houses containing one room ana a stable, and very dirty. In some places
in the plains they have bee-hived shaped houses.
The Circassians (CherkmX who are so widely distributed throughout
Anatolia, N. Syria, and N. Mesopotamia, are partly emigrants from
Circassia after its conquest by Russia, and partly refugees from Bulgaria,
E. Ronmelia, and Circassia after the last Turco-Russian War. They
include the Kabardai, Chechen, Daghestanis, Ac., who are of Semitio-
Turanian race, and the Abasa who are of Indo-European origin, and were
originally Christians. Two principal dialects, which differ greatly, and
several minor ones, are spoken.
The Abasa have a dim reminiscence of Christianity, and in some cases
bear Christian names. Some have Georgian, some Greek, and others
Latin, features. The Armenian double cross, and the Latin cross, are
still used as symbols, and in some of the tribes old Greek customs still
exist. They are divided into several tribes, of which the most important
are the 8hab$ukh, Ahmkh, and Obukh ; and the people are sharply parted
into four castes— -prinoes, nobles, freemen, and slaves. The slaves, who
appear to be of different origin, are very numerous ; they are well treated,
ana completely identify themselves with their masters. To a certain
extent the old tribal organisation is maintained, and race and family ties
are regarded as peculiarly holy and binding. Many of the customs,
especially those relating to marriage and the honeymoon, are interesting.
The Circassians are more manly, vigorous, intelligent, and truthful
than the Anatolian peasants. They have high courage, a love of |>on)onal
freedom and independence, a natural aptitude for commerce, and a great
capacity for civilisation and education. They have introduced, wherever
they have gone, improved carts, more comfortable houses, and a better
system of agriculture. Next to the Albanians they supply the knost
capable and honest officials; and they make the best labourers in many
of the mines and in the cotton-ginning factories in the Aidin vil&yet.
Some of the tribes are great horse-breeders ; and some of the men are
bold robbers.
The principal settlements are those of the Kabardai , on the Usun
Tails, E. of Sivas, and near Kutaya ; the 0 Hastened a branch of the
Kabardai, near Geuksun ; the Chechen, Shamil’s tribe — fine, handsome,
intelligent men, in Syria and Mesopotamia ; the ffagueh, near Sinope ;
the Abeekh, near 8ams<ln and Amasia, at Balikisri, and in Syria; the
Shabeukh, near Amasia and Samsfln, at Ada-bazftr and Duzje, and in
8yria ; the Abaaa and Obukh round Ada-bazftr and Duzje.
Vofhai Tatars. After the Crimean War about 20,000 Noghai families
left Russia and settled on the Cilician plain. Coming from a cool bracing
climate to the swampy portion of the plain, with no doctors, and no on*
to advise them, they died by thousands, and now only about 2000
families are left. They are quiet inoffensive people, living on or near th«
banks of the Jihfln.
The Lads have already been described (p. 210). In 1880-81, lar$^
numbers emigrated from the portion of Laxistan ceded to Russia,
[Turkey.] 9
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[66] Introduction . — The People : Moslems.
were settled down in the mountains bordering the Gulf of Mudania from
Geumlek to Bos Burun. In the same district many Georgian refugees
were settled. Here and there in W. Anatolia are villages of Albanians,
Pomaks, refugees from E. Boumelia, and in E. Anatolia there are some
Persian settlements. The Zeibeks of the Aidin Vilflyet, who wear a
J Mculiar costume, and have many interesting customs, are apparently
lescended from the original population.
Zisil-bash, 44 red bead,” is the name given by Sunnis to a large section
of the population which is either Shia in faith, or professes a religion
which is a strange mixture of Shiism, Paganism, Manichaeism, and
Christianity, — sometimes one, sometimes another element predominating.
They are widely spread, and in certain districts of the Angora and Sivas
vil&yets, as well as in the Denim, they form a compact population.
They appear to be derived partly from Shias of Turkish origin, who were
forcibly transplanted from Persia during the reigns of Selim I. and
Suleiman I. ; and partly from the original inhabitants who, after having
been worshippers of the Great Goddess, Ma, adopted Christianity, became
deeply tainted with Manichaeism, and, later, embracing Isl&m during the
SeljfiK period, were exposed to Penian religious influence. In some cases
they pray over bread and wine, which are afterwards consumed by the
worshippers. The 8unnis accuse them, apparently without truth, of being
dirty, immoral, and of celebrating obscene rites. They have an excellent
reputation for industry, economy, and energy ; there is always more life
about their villages than usual ; and they are good gardeners, and skilled
in the art of irrigation. A Christian can go safely amongst them in places
where a Sunni dare not venture. The women are fond of bright coloura ;
they have much freedom, and never veil except in presence of a Sunni.
The Ansariyeh, or en~Ntuariyeh, who, in recent years, have migrated
in large numbers from their home in the Syrian mountains to the Cilician
plain, derive their name from Nusair, whose son, Abu Shueib, the first
apostle of the sect, derived his teaching from the eleventh Imirn. The
apostle who spread the religion was Hussein ibn Hamdan el-Khasibt,
whence the people are sometimes called Rhasibiyeh .
The Ansariyeh are divided into two sects, between which there is bitter
enmity : — the Shenriyth, who reverence the sun, resemble the Maronites
in appearance, and are descended from the original inhabitants of the
mountains ; and the Kumriyeh, who worship the moon, are of Persian type,
and came from J. Sin jar. They believe in one God, self-existent and
eternal, who has manifested Himself seven times in human form, Ali, the
lost manifestation, being the most perfect. At each manifestation the
Deity made use of two persons, the first created by himself, the second
created by the first. The Deity, known as l/ana, 44 meaning,” with these
two persons, called Ism , 44 name,*' and Bab , “ door,” form an inseparable
Trinity. In the first manifestation, the Trinity was formed of Abel,
Adam, and Gabriel j in the last of Ali, Muhammad, and Salman el-Farist.
Tho initial letters of the last named, Ain, Mtm, and Sin, represent the
secret of the Trinity. They also believe in two worlds, the luminous or
spiritual world with seven hierarchies, and the earthly world with seven
degrees of believers. Light is the eternal M&na, who manifests himself in
Abd en-N6r t the servant of light, which is wine : this wine is consecrated
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and drunk, mixed with water, in the sacrament ( kuddds )• All it God and.
dwells in the sun, hence the reverence for light. They believe in the
transmigration of souls, the same soul passing from one body to another
seventy times. They do not eat camel, pork, bare, or eel; and usury,
tobacoo smoking, the wearing of a black handkerchief, or a blue turban,
uid other specified articles of dress, are forbidden. Myrtle is held in high
esteem. Tnere are five principal feasts in the year on which the men
communicate ; Kuselle, on New Year’s Day, old Style ; MOad , on the
25th December ; Yetas i on the Epiphany, when men and women go to the
river and immerse themselves in remembrance of Christ’s baptism \ and
Nurfay on the 4th April, old style— an old Persian feast, and considered
the most important
The Ansariyeh are quiet inoffensive people, and good agriculturists.
Their villages are never far from running water, and the oeremonies on
their feast days, as far as they are visible to the uninitiated, are very
interesting.
The Yesldis (Infidels) or “ Devil Worshippers, 9 ' whose proper name is
Asdaiy are tribal and non-tribal, nomad and sedentary. / Most of them are
sedentary, and they are found scattered over the oountry between Erivan
and J. 8injar, and between the Kurt D. on the W. and Zakho, B. of the
Tigris. At Badri, near Mosul, and in J. Sinjat, they form a fairly com-
pact population. They number about 40,000 in Turkey, and 6000 in
Trans Caucasia.
The origin of the Yezidis is unknown ; they are variously supposed to
be of Kurdish, Armenian (from those Armenians who moved 8. when
Christianity was forcibly introduced by Tiridates and 8. Gregory), and
Hebrew descent. Their religion is, apparently, a curious mixture of the
old Babylonian religion, Zoroastrianism, Manicbaeism, and Christianity ;
and it has an affinity with that of the Ansariyeh. They believe in two
antagonistic spirits or beings, — the good (light), and the evil (darkness),
and they consider it of importance to conciliate the evil spirit. They
celebrate mysteries analogous to Baptism and the Lord’s Supper ; and
kneel, looking towards the sun, at sunrise. Their priests chant prayers
to Sheikh Adi, and Sh. 8hems (the sun). The Moslems aocuse tnem of
practising obscene rites, and indulging in disgusting orgies during their
nocturnal religkms ceremonies; but, apparently, as unjustly as the
Christians accused the Manichaeans of similar offences. They have a
chief priest, and a civil head, both of whom live at Badri, and a shrine, to
which pilgrimages are made, at Sheikh Adi (p. 240), where their founder
is buried.
Their language is Kermanji, but all written documents are in Persian.
They have no schools, and few can read or write. The Yeaidis, with the
exception of a few townsmen in Mosul, Aleppo, and Damascus, are agri-
cultural and pastoral ; they have vineyards, olive-groves, and frnit gardens,
and also now cereals. They are industrious, civil and well-disposed
towards Christians ; and their dwellings are cleaner than those of Kurds,
Arabs, or Christians. Round Mosul they are inoffensive and harmless,
but in some districts they are noted freebooters.
The nomads and semi-nomads of W. Anatolia are for the most part
descendants of the Turkish tribes which poured into the country after the
9 2
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[ 68 ] Introduction.— The People: Moslem.
defeat of Romanos, or of the Mongols and Tatars- who followed them at a
later period. ‘
, The Turkomans are partly pastoral, partly agricultural. Some are
Sunnis, some Shias. They are kind and hospitable, and are principally
settled in the Angora, Adana, and Aleppo vil&yeta.
The Ynrnks speak Turkish, but do not read or write. They call them-
selves Moslems and circumcise ; but they have neither mosques nor Im&ms,
and their religion sits lightly upon them. They do not till the soil, but
own large herds of cattle, sheep, and goats, carry on most of the camel
transport of the country, and are relatively rich. They pass the summer
in the mountains, the winter in the plains, and are very regular in their
migrations. They are vigorous and robust, keen hunters and expert
robbers, but very hospitable. They are met with in many districts, but
are most numerous in the Konia vil&yet.
The Tatars are partly of Mongol, partly of Turkish stock. Their
number was greatly increased in 1880^82 by refugees from the Dobruja.
They are quiet and industrious, and make excellent arabaju.
The Avshars, of Turkish race, came from N.W. Persia, where there is
still a portion of the tribe. They were once powerful and practically
independent, but, after the Crimean War, they were driven from the Uzun
Yaila into the Anti-Taurus Mountains by the Circassian immigrants.
They are now reduced in numbers, and are gradually passing from a nomad
to a settled state. They are bold robbers and still somewhat intractable,
but kind and hospitable to Europeans. The women are freer of speech
than amongst the Turks, and are noticeable for their beauty, their singular
fashion of dressing their hair, and the bright colours of their dresses. • Hie
Avshar religion is analogous to that of the Kizil-bash.
, . ... - . ... i . .
The Ghepmi and the Takhtaji live in houses in winter and tents in
summer, and are wood-cutters, charcoal-burners, and basket-makers.
They have no Imftms, mosques, or religious books, and are despised by
Moslems, who accuse them of immorality and nocturnal orgies. When a
man dies they weep and wail over the corpse, which is decked with flowers,
and during the marriage ceremony the bride and bridegroom are given
wine to drink. Their fondness for living near running water, and some
of their customs, would seem to indicate that they are connected with the
Ansariyeh. They are most numerous in the Aidin vil&yet.
The Bhabhakhs and Briwans are two tribes of peculiar people living near
Mosul. They are called Kizil-bash by the Moslems, but have curious
religious tenets. They believe that Christ is hidden on earth and will
some day reappear; and they have much in common with the Ali Ilakis
(p. 286). They are poor and inoffensive; and their language is more
nearly allied to Persian than KermanjL
The Tsrek-imans or Xara-papaks live in the Bayezid district, and in
Trans Caucasia. They are descendants of emigrants from Northern
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Introduction . — The People : Chrietiane , Jem, £<L [ 69 ]
Azerbijan, are all Shias, and acknowledge one supreme chief who lives in
N. Persia.
For the Arabs, see p. 282, and the Lars, p. 284. * t • ■ i
(b.) Chrutiam , Jew*, do.
The division of the non-Moslem subjects of the Porte into M(Uet$, or
religions communities, to whioh the Sultans granted important privileges
and immunities, has already been explained (Handbook to Conetanikme).
The most important sections of tne non-Moslem population are cere
noticed.
1 The Greeks ( R6mi , from 'P«uato«) of A. Minor and the adjacent islands
are partly the descendants of Greek colonists, and partly of the early
inhabitants of the land who were converted to Christianity and completely
Hellenised during the period of Byzantine supremacy. The various
peoples were amalgamated by ecclesiastical rule and religious seal far
more effectually than they cOuld ever have been by Rome and her pro-
consuls. Tribal distinctions were obliterated, aiid the native dialects
everywhere gave plaoe to the language in which the Gospel was written.
The people became “ Greeks ” as Ming subjects of the Byzantine Empire,
and members of the Eastern Church ; and it is this latter bond whioh is
still the real test of nationality. Every Turkish subject who is a member
of the Orthodox Church is a M Greek,” and belongs to the Greek community
(BGm milletC).
When Muhammad II. took Constantinople he found the Greek Church
in a state of disorganisation from the flight of the Patriarch and its quarrels
with the Emperor. In pursuance 6f bis policy towards his Christian
subjects he appointed a Patriarch, and invested him with great civil and
ecclesiastical power over all members of the Greek Church. He, however,
reserved in his own hands the power of deposing Patriarchs and Bishops,
and of condemning them to death. The Patriarch of Constantinople thus
became the civil and religious head of the Greek millet, and a high
dignitary of the Empire. Ho is elected, subject to the approval of tne
Sultan, by a synod, which also administers the religious budget, and
whose decision is final in matters of faith. There is also a Council for
civil affairs, and in every vilftyet there is an ecclesiastical and civil
council under the control of the Archbishop or Bishop. The Patriarohs
(Constantinople, Jerusalem, Antioch, and Alexandria) and Bishops are
well paid, but the inferior clergy are in a miserable state, some of them
subsisting by husbandry. The parochial clergy must be married, and as
a rule their character is good ; but they are extremely ignorant. It is
Considered sufficient qualification for holy orders to be able to read the
prayers and lessons in church.
The distribution of the Greeks is interesting. In the islands off the
W. coast, and on the mainland opposite to them, the Moslems are gradually
being displaced by Greeks. In these districts the people are enterprising,
intelligent, keen-witted and gifted with a rare commercial instinct. They
have an ardent love of liberty coupled with a deeply-rooted intolerance of
everyone who happens to differ from them in creed or opinion. With
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[ 70 ] Introduction.— The People : Cerietiane, Jews, Ac.
many of the best qualities of the Hellenic race they combine some of the
worst, such as instability of character, impatience of authority, indifferent
morality, and disregard of truth. Drunkenness is prevalent and, in the
larger towns, tho young Greeks spend their evenings at some casino or
ccfi chantant, where drink, play, and loose companionship do not tend to
improve their morality. Profuse expenditure on education is a national
characteristic, and to acquire a sufficient fortune to found a school or
hospital in his native town is the honourable ambition of every Greek
merchant. Kindergartens, elementary and high schools have been founded
for boys and girls. Masters and mistresses have been brought from
Athena, and good editions of the Greek classics have been introduced from
Germany.
On the 8. coast of Anatolia the Greeks are far less educated and enter-
prising. Here the genius, the liberal spirit and love of art of the ancient
Hellene have been replaced by ignorance and gross superstition. In many
places they are quite illiterate, and their habits and dress are thoroughly
Asiatic. Their home aud family life is miserable, and quite as despotic
as that of the Moslems ; the men eat with their fingers and apart from the
family; there are no tables and no beds; and both sexes lie on .the
ground without removing their clothes. They talk Turkish and write it
in Greek characters; and the priests, who officiate in Greek, do not
understand what they read. Superstitions, such as belief in the evil eye,
in lucky and unlucky days, in the efficacy of charms and love philtres, in
omens, sorcery, &o., are common, and have fat* more influence over . their
daily life than religion.
The Cappadocian Greeks who live in Kaisarlyeh, and the villages round
M$. Argaeus, and occupy the curious rock-hewn villages to the south,
have a well -deserved reputation for energy and commercial activity.
They are animated by an intense love of home; the great ambition of
every Cappadocian is to go to the capital and earn enough to enable him
to build a house and settle down as a married man in his native country.
The villages on the slopes of Argaeus offer a spectacle of wealth and
comfort, which is not to be found elsewhere in the interior. Nearly every
village is connected with some particular guild in Constantinople; one
supplies small store-keepers, another sellers of wine, another driers of fish,
another makers of caviare, another porters, Ac. The rock-hewn villages
S. of Kaisariyeh are known by Greek as well as Turkish names ; in some
Greek is spoken, in others a Graeco-Turk jargon. On the holy pictures
in the churches the legends are often in Turkish written with Greek
characters. Some of the villages have a mixed population, Greek and
Turk, but they are of the same stock, and are only distinguished by the
quaint head-dress of the Christian women, — a white cloth wound round
the head like the bandage of a corpse.
The Pontic Greeks are, as a rule, agriculturists, and are more ignorant
than the Cappadocians They have tho sturdiness and independence of
mountaineers, and have in most cases retained their language and religion.
They are very superstitious, and entirely under the influence of their
priests.
The Anatolian Greeks generally are active and intelligent, laborious
and devoted to commercial pursuits They learn quickly and well, and
become doctors, lawyers, bankers, innkeepers, &c., filling most of the pro-
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Introduction. — The People: Christians, Jews, dc> [71]
f onions. They are good miners and masons, and villages are generally
found near old lead and copper mines. They have much of the versa-
tility, the love of adventure and intrigae, which distinguished the ancient
Greeks ; and a certain restlessness in their commercial speculations whioh
sometimes leads to disaster. The democratic feeling is strong ; the sole
aristocracy is that of wealth, and ancient lineage confers no special distinc-
tion. The children of rich and poor go to the same schools and receive
the same free education.
When Turkish supremacy was established in Anatolia, and the use of
the Greek language was forbidden, the Greeks who worked in the mines
were allowed to retain their creed and their language. Those who lived
in the rock-hewn villages of Cappadocia and in the mountains of Pontus
were able, from the peculiarity of their position, to defy the Turk and
retain their language. In all other inlana communities Turkish, written
with Greek characters, became the language of the Greek Christians.
In travelling through Greek districts or villages, or in employing Greeks,
it may sometimes be necessary for the traveller to use Romaic. The
dialects used in Turkey are exceedingly numerous. Generally speaking,
there is a dialect for each island and sometimes for each village in an
island. The two chief dialects are those of Smyrna and Constantinople,
which are closely allied. The Smyrna dialect is perhaps that which is
most extensively used and understood.
For Constantinople Romaic a good work may be picked up on the book-
stalls in Constantinople for a shilling — 1 Le Premier Indispensable tlu
Militaire Fractals en Orient, Franpais, Turo et Grec. Constantinople, 1865,
by V. Letellier.' A novel, written in Constantinopolitan Greek, entitled
Td po&TT){ia rfjs Korerarru’oiraXfor, is a great assistance in picking up
the idiom.
In the following brief summary the Smyrna dialect is from a MS. of
the lata Mr. Hyde Clarke and the Constantinople from Letellier; but both
are in some cases corrected or improved.
The grammar is on a very limited scale ; not at all like the classic,
but the nouns aud verbs are worked much as in the modem languages of
Western Europe with articles, pronouns, and auxiliaries.
The vowels include the French u, commonly for the up$ilon, and the
old diphthongs are generally suppressed and fused in t (iota).
The old B is a v.
DisaftordAasin thee.
Th is a th as in think.
G is a y or guttural g.
K often becomes g \
Au is of.
In the present case the pronunciation of the vowels is given as in
French, and of the consonants as in English, except dh for th in thee.
There are no sh or ch in Greek. Kh is a guttural.
Accent is of great importance in Romaic, and is one of the philological
indications of the descent of the language.
Words are much run into each other in conversation.
Thou is used by all classes, and not “ you.”
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[ 72 ] Introduction . — The People : Christiana , Jews, do.
Oome here,
Have you ? (Host thou 7)
Did you sell?
What are you selling?
Where do they sell ?
What is that ?
I want,
Show me,
Let me see,
How much ?
How many piastres?
It is very dear,
How much apiece ?
Give me an oke,
It is not enough.
Be quick, be quick,
Change this (money) for
me,
Well, right (this is a
stock word for every-
thing),
Very well , All right (do. ),
III, bad,
Very bod,
Yes, certainly.
No,
A little,
Very little,
Too little,
More,
Much more,
Enough,
Quickly,
Without, out I
Within,
Exactly,
Slow 1 slowly,
Yesterday,
To-duy,
To-morrow,
Day after to-morrow,
To-morrow morning,
The road to ,
If you ploosc,
Wherodoestliis road load
to?
Monday,
Tuesday,
Wednesday,
Thursday,
Friday,
Saturday,
Sunday,
Week,
Holiday,
Smynu Greek,
Ma dho .
tikhisf
Poutai
Ti poulis ekif
Pou poulou'ncl
Ti ine afto' 9
Khrya'some.
Dhiz’e mou.
Vanathoo'mi.
Pos'o9
Pos'a aro'sia 9
Ins’ poll dbrivd.
Pos'd to koma'li 9
Dho' seme my'an okd
Dhen ine arketo '.
Gligora.
Alex' emou tout'es
para'dhes.
Kald .
Pdlu MU.
As'kima.
Pdlu as'kima.
Mal'ista , ne.
6khi, 6khtiki.
Oligo.
Pdlil oligo. •
PdlU oligo.
Pitt, also perissotero .
PdlU perissotero.
Arketa.
Olig'ora.
Ox'o , a'po.
A'po mdsa.
Sostd.
Sigd ! sigd ! aga'lia.
Ekh'tes.
Simera.
Av'rio.
Mdthav'rio.
Av'rio to pros.
O dhro'mo tou .
An agapa'te.
Pou • piydne afto
dhro r mo9
Dhev'tdra.
Triti.
Tetra'dhi.
Pdmpti.
Paraskevi.
Sa'vato.
Kiryaki.
Evahoma'dha.
Yorti, skho'li.
Constantinople Greek.
Ela dhd.
tihhisl
Pou'ltsl
Ti poutlis dkhi 9
Pou potUoun' 9
Ti ine afto' 9
Khrytomd.
Dhexdmd.
As idhomen.
Posson 9
Pos'd gro'sia 9
Ini poli akrivd.
Post a to koma'ti 9
Dhosmd myan ogan.
Dhdn ind arketon.
Kamd, kame, gli'gora.
tas Alaxdmd afto to no -
misma.
Kald . .
Pol a kola.
Kaka.
Pola kaka.
Ne, malista.
Okhi.
Olighon.
Pola oltghon.
Pola olighon.
Pleon.
Pola pleon.
Arltela.
Gli'gora.
Exo.
Messa.
Akrivo'.
Agalia.
Khtes.
Simdron.
Avryon.
Mdlavryon.
O dromos tou .
An aghapdtd.
to Pou piytne uftos o dro
mos9
Devtdra.
Triti.
Tetradhi.
Pempli.
Paraske'vi.
Bavato.
Kir
Sorts .
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Introduction
’—The People: Christian*, Jews, dc. [73]
8mjrna Greek.
Constantinople Greek.
1.
ena.
ena* , ena, mya.
2,
dhw'o.
dhyo.
8,
trfa.
trie, tria.
4,
tee'eara.
teeeare *, teeeara.
5,
pen'de.
pentt.
6,
ex's.
ekei.
7,
he/ta'.
epta.
8,
okto.
okto.
%
enyd.
ennta.
10,
dhek'a.
dheka.
11,
endhrh'a
endtka.
12,
dhodhek'a.
dodtka.
13,
dhek'a trfa.
dtka tria.
H,
dhek'a tee'mra.
deka teeeara.
15,
dhek'apen'de.
dtka pendt.
dtke ekei.
16,
dhek'aax'i.
17,
dhek'a he/ta'. .
dtka epta.
dtka okto.
18,
dhek'a dido'.
19,
dhehahnya'.
deka ennta.
20,
ikoei.
ikoei.
21,
ikdei tn a.
ikoei tna.
30,
triad da.
trianta.
40,
ear an' da.
earanda.
60,
pent n' da.
ptninda.
60,
exin' da.
exinda.
70,
evdhomin'da.
evdttminda .
80,
ogdludn'da.
men in' da.
ogdoynda.
00 ,
entninda.
100,
ekato'.
ekatd.
101,
ekato ' tna.
ekato tna.
200,
dhtakdeia.
dhyakotia.
300,
trakdeia.
tryakoeia.
400,
ttlrako'eia.
ttlrakosia.
600,
pendako'gta.
exako'eia.
pendakoeia.
600,
700,
eflako'ria.
800,
oktoko'si a.
900,
enneakdsia.
1,000,
khil'ya.
khil'ya.
1,000,000,
milydna.
milyouni.
What o’clock is it?
Ti dra inti
Ti dr a init
A quarter past 3,
Trie 6ra ke quarto.
Ti drt kt en Marlon.
10 min. past 9,
Nearly 6 o’clock,
Enyd kedh'eka minutae.
Ennta ke dhe'ka lepta.
Kondd ex'i dra* ine , Kdda
Ini plikyon ton exi
<ne i ex'i dre.
oron.
Handsome, pretty,
E*vmorfo.
Evmorfo*.
Good,
Raid.
Kaloe.
Bad, ugly,
At'kimo.
Kakos.
Better,
KaUtera.
Kaliteroe.
Dear,
Akrivd.
Akrivoe.
Cheap,
I/tind.
Fthinoe.
Glean,
Faetrikd.
Paetriko*.
Dirty,
Vro'miho.
Ldromdno*.
Great, big,
Little, small,
Mega'lo.
Mxkrd.
MtOcdoe.
Mikroe.
Good day (to one),
Kdlimtra.
Kalimtra.
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[ 74 ] Introduction. — The People: Christians , Jews , do.
Good day (to many),
Good night,
Thank you,
How do you do ? (thou),
Good bye (you do not Buy
good day on leaving),
Give me,
Beef,
Veal,
Ghop,
Bread,
ltoll,
Bing-shaped cake,
Salt,
Oil,
Vinegar,
Mustard,
Cheese,
Butter,
Helva,
Sugar,
Tobaooo,
Pipo, ohibook,
Cigar, cigarette,
Cigarette paper,
Mutches,
Light I lire I
Wine,
Baki,
Water,
Cold water, fresh.
Hot water,
Coffee,
Milk,
Tea,
Lemonade,
Common sherbot,
A good hone,
sax
Where is,
Chamberpot,
Town,
Village,
Street,
He is, they are, to be,
I am,
I liave.
Thou hast, you have,
Have you ?
I shall be.
He or they shall be, Will
it or they be ?
Thou shalt liavo,
Smyrna Greek.
Constantinople Greek.
Kdlimdta bob .
KaHm&a bob .
Kdlinflda.
Kalinikta.
Evkharutd.
Evkharittd.
Potekh'es? Ti kdmnea ?
Posekh'etet
Addio, Addfo sat.
Ib to kalon.
Dhdeme, dhdteme.
Dhdame.
Vodhinon.
Vodhinon.
VidhdUo.
Moeharieeon, videlo.
Koteldta , britdla.
Britain, oatleti.
PaomV.
Psamt\
Franjdla.
Fraud tela.
Youvrck, limit.
Ala' ii .
Alaa.
La'dhi.
Ladhi.
Xidhi.
Xidi.
Moustdrdha.
Mouttardha.
Tiri.
Tiri.
Voutire.
Voutiro.
Helva.
Helva.
Zdkh'ari.
Zakhari.
Kapnd.
Tautou'ki.
Kapnos.
Ttriltovki.
Ttega'ra .
Ttegdra khar'ti.
SpiPta .
Photid.
Ttigarou.
Kharti ton Uigarou.
Spirta.
Photid.
Kraxi.
Krati.
IlakC.
Raki.
Nerd.
Nor on.
Frdako nerd.
Tatedikon neron.
Zeatd nerd.
Kaf€.
Kafd.
Qhdla.
Qhdla.
Ttai.
Teal.
Limonddha.
Fithne.
Lemonada.
Ena kdld dlogho.
Ena kamiUiki.
Ena kalon alodium.
Ena kamiUiki.
Ena vit'aa.
Mya vergha.
Pou ine.
Pou ine.
Anangheon.
Anangudbn.
Kria.
Teoukali.
Bdlia.
Bdlia.
Khorid.
Sokdki.
Khoryo.
Sokdki.
tne.
Ine.
fine.
Ekh'o.
Imd.
Ekh'ie.
Tha ime.
Tha (he.
Tha ekh'ie.
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Introduction. — The People: Christian®, Jews, de. [76J
The X. 0. Greeks, or " Latins,” are Greeks who hare adopted the creed
and peculiar rites of Rome. The work of the church is carried on by
Jesuits, Franciscans, Carmelites, Lazarists, Frferes Chretiens, and Boeurs
de Chari td. They do not form a very large or important community.
The Helehites, or “ United Greeks,” are the result of French missionary
effort in the 17ih century. They recognise the Pope as bead of the
Church ; adhere to the Latin view of the FUioaue question ; and observe
Easter at the Latin date. They, however, say Maas in Arabic and Greek ;
administer the communion in both kinds ; and allow the marriage of the
clergy. Their Patriarch is styled Patriarch of Antioch, Jerusalem, and
Aleppo. They are a numerous body, and their clergy are better educated
than thoee of the Orthodox Church.
lire Hellenes (Tk. YGnan, i.e. lonians), or natives of free Greece,
have settled in large numbers (over 20,000) in and round Smyrna. There
are some villages exclusively occupied by Hellenes who, in looal affairs,
are under their Consuls. This large alien population adds to the difficulty
of government.
Armenians. According to their own tradition, the Armenians (BaU)
are descended from Halk, a great grandson of Japheth, who settled in the
country at the foot of Ararat. It Is probable, however, that the settlement
was not earlier than the 7th century, B.a (p. 194).
The Armenians probably do not number more than 4,000,000 souls,
and it is estimated that, of these, 2,100,000 are in Asiatic and 400,000 in
European Turkey, 1,200,000 in Russia, 160,000 in Persia, and 160,000 in
Austria, India, and other parts of the world. Large numbers of Ar-
menians live at C onstantinople and in the villages on the Bosporus, and
there are Armenian communities in most of the Anatolian towns, but
there are no Armenian peasants W. of Istanos, near Angora. In E.
Anatolia a large proportion of the urban and agricultural population is
Armenian. In Persia the Armenians are chiefly settled in Azerbijao and
at Julfa (Isfahan J.
The Armenians were originally Zoroastrians and were converted to
Christianity by 8. Gregory, the Illuminator, a member of the ruling
Arsacid family. Christianity was adopted as the religion of the State,
and a church is said to have been built by S. Gregory at Echmiadzin in
▲.D. 809. They rejected the decrees of the Council of Chalcedon (461),
and separated themselves from the Greek and other Catholic churches.
They now belong to three separate communities (mittefj) — Gregorian, R.
Catholic, and Protestant — each of which is officially recognised by the
Porte.
Qrmrian ( Armenian ) community . At the head of the Armenian
Church are three Oatholicoi, of whom the Oatholicos of Echmiadzin is first
in rank and importance, and has the largest diocese ; the Catholiooe of Sis,
whose importance has greatly declined ; and the Catholicos of Akhtamar
whose diocese and influence are very small. There are three Patriarchs,
who are consecrated by the Catholiooe of Echmiadzin, — Constantinople,
who is the temporal head of the Gregorian Armenians in Turkey; Jeru-
salem; and Antioch. The clergy consist of village priests (Derder), who
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[70] Introduction. — The People: Christians, Jem, dc.
must marry bat cannot remarry if the wife dies ; and the celibate, or
widowed priests (Vartabed\ from whom the Bishops and Archbishops are
selected. There are numerous rich monasteries under stricter rules than
those of the Greeks. The village priests and monks are often very
ignorant, but great efforts have been made in recent years to improvo
their education. Adoration of the Virgin and saints is practised; the
churches are adorned with pictures, and the altars richly ornamented and
gilded. Auricular confession and penance are ordained. Old-fashioned
Armenians observe the Lenten fast strictly, touching neither milk, eggs,
nor fish. The Blaster services, especially those on Holy Thursday and
Good Friday, are interesting. On Sundays and holy days the churches are
crowded, but the congregations are not always very reverent The women
generally occupy galleries apart from the men. Fast and feast days are
numerous and form an excuse for not working. Pilgrimages to Jerusalem,
Echmiadzin, and load shrines are much in fashion. Through every kind
of persecution the Gregorians have adhered to their faith with un paral-
lelled tenacity.
The Catholicate was originally hereditary in the Araacid family, and its
seat was first at Vagharshabad ( Echmiadzin ) ; but when Armenia became
the battlefield between E. and W., the Catholicoi were appointed by the
rulers of the country for the time being, and the seat of the Catholicate
was moved to Tovin, Sorof-vank, Akhtamar, Ani, Sebastea, and other
places. In 1065 the Catholicos resided in Lesser Armenia, and a suc-
cession of Catholicoi exercised their jurisdiction from various places in
Cilicia and N. Syria until 1441, when Gregory IX. was Catholioos at Sis.
In that year, there being no hope of a revival of the kingdom of Looser
Armenia, and most of the Armenians being resident in tlie northern
districts, a large section of the clergy determined to re-establish the
Catholicate at Echmiadzin, and elected Cyriacus, Catholicos. A division
was thus created in tho Catholicate: each Catholicos continued inde-
pendently of the other to consecrate Bishops, and to use the holy oil. After
Echmiadzin passed into the hands of Russia the influence of its Catholicos,
who had beoome a Russian subject, largely increased ; the Patriarch of
Constantinople passed more completely under his spiritual jurisdiction,
and, since 1866, constant efforts have been made to reduce the indepen-
dent Catholicos of Sis to submission.
When Muhammad II. took Constantinople ho transferred the Armenian
Archbishop of Brfisa to his new capital, and appointed him Patriarch,
and civil head of the Armenians in the Empire. The Patriarch of Con-
stantinople thus became a high officer of the State, charged with the
administration of all purely Armenian affairs, and endowed with great
civil and religious power over the members of his community. This
g ower was often exercised in a most arbitrary manner, and after the Haiti
herif of GUl-khkneh (1830) had proclaimed that all men were equal
before the law, the laity determined to free themselves from clerical
control. After a long struggle with the Patriarch and clergy, not un-
acoompaniod by disturbance, they succeeded in obtaining first a Vizierial
Order (18471 and then a Charter , sanctioned by Imperial Irade (1860),
whioh vested in a General Aesemtiy of 140 elected members the powers
previously exercised by the Patriarch. The General Assembl v elects the
Patriarch, subject to Imperial confirmation, and two Councils, to assist
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction . — The People : Christians, Jetts, dc. [ 77 ]
him in the conduct of busmen. A Spiritual Council of fourteen clergy
looks after the churches and the ailairs of the clergy ; whilst a Temporal
Council of twenty laymen deals with all questions connected with
monasteries, education, hospitals, finance, family disputes, Ac. The cost
of administration is met by a tax on all Armenians who are of age. Each
diocese in the Provinces has 6 Council, of which the Bishop is President,
to deal with local affairs and keep a census of Armenians in the diooeee.
For many years the Charter was ignored by the provincial clergy, but
the educational work of the American missionaries forced the Councils
to improve the schools, and rectify the abuses in the churches and
monasteries. The Patriarchs, after election, go to Echmiadzin in lluanian
territory to be consecrated by the Catholicos, who is a Russian subject.
* The Roman Catholic Armenians have, since 1830, formed a separate
oommiinity (millet ), having its own self-government under the R. 0.
Patriarch of Constantinople. The priests are as a rule much better edu-
cated than those of the Gregorians ; and owe much to the training many
of them get at the Mekhitarist college at Venioe. They are numerous
at Angora, Constantinople, and Smyrna.
The Protestants , who are the result of the efforts of the American
missionaries to reform the Armenian Church, also form a separate millet,
and have an official representative ( VekU) at Constantinople, through
whom all business with the Porte is transacted. They are chiefly Con-
greeationalists, and their pastors are well educated and noted for their
probity, honesty, and morality.
The Armenian language is of Indo-European origin, and wonderfully rich
and expressive, though tho peasants* dialects may be found poor and greatly
corrupted. It is inharmonious, agglutinative, and loves compound and
many-syllabled words. After mastering the forty-letter alphabet, invented
by Mesrob in the 6th century, and the grievous struggle to produce the
sounds represented, the grammar and syntax will not be found very
difficult The modem language differs from the ancient, which is still
used in the churches, but hardly more than modern Greek does from the
Greek of Homer. The most brilliant period of Armenian literature was
in the 4th and 6th centuries; in the 12th and 13th centuries there was
a revival, and since the settlement of the Mekhitarists at Venice there
has been a permanent revival. A large number of Armenian books are
published by the American Bible House at Constantinople, and there are
Armenian newspapers. At Jerusalem the first printing press was set up
by the Patriarch. A majority of the Armenians speak Armenian, but
there are many parts of the oountry in which the language has been lost.
In some they speak only Kermanji, in others Arabic, and in others
Turkish.
The Armenians of the higher class in Constantinople and Smyrna are
polished and well-educated, and the ladies dress in European fashion.
They are remarkable for their great industry, quick intelligence, aptitude
for business, and speculative spirit They are good linguists, and many
of them occupy high positions under the Turkish Government, and are
amongst the leading merchants and bankers. In the provinces the
townsmen are bankers, merchants, and tradesmen of every kind. Many
of them seek their fortunes at the capital, where they join one of the
guilds connected with their native town. Thus Egin sends bankers and
Digitized by L^ooQle
[78] Introduction. — The People : Christian*, Jews, &c.
serafs , Kaisariyeh and Arabkir, merchants, the Siva* vilAyet, cooks and
watchmen, Van and Mush hammed*, Kemakh kaikfis, Ac. Most of the
trade of the interior is in Armenian hands ; the larger merchants extend
their operations to Persia and Bukhara, whilst the pecllars penetrate every-
where selling their wares on credit, and often overloading the peasant
with debt. The peasantry are good agriculturists, intelligent, laborious,
and frugal, but extremely ignorant and superstitious.
, The peasant is usually short and thick-set, with black hair, regular but
coarse features, large hooked nose and broad shouldera. At Istanos near
Angora, however, the villagers have light hair and complexion, possibly
from a mixture of Gallio blood. The family system is largely patriarchal ;
great respect is due from younger to elder members ; a newly married
couple go to live in the husband’s father’s house, and silence is imposed on
the bride until her first child is bom or until another marriage is con-
cluded in the same house. In the towns the women generally wear the
yashmak. The national defects are want of stability and self-reliance, a
tendency to magnify everything, and disoord arising from self-conceit and
personal ambition. The modern Armenian is, as a rule, un warlike, but
the old martial spirit for which the race was distinguished still survives
amongst those who live in the Taurus and the Giaour D. Education has
during late years roadu great strides owing to the impetus given to it by
the American missionaries.
The peasantry are very superstitious. They believe in the evil eve,
miraculous cures, witchcraft, and the efficacy of relics; and they sacrifice
animals near the shrines of saints in the accomplishment of vows. In
some places they go out to weloome tho storks as harbingers of spring,
and, like the Moslems, they place skulls in their fields for fruitfulness.
On a certain day in summer they throw or splash water over one another ;
in spring they free pigeons ; and on the eve of the Presentation, Feb. ±},
they illuminate their windows with candles and burn bonfires on the
roofs of their bouses. The women pass their babes above tho flames,
and the young girls leap through them. There are also curious marriage
and other customs.
Armenian. Knrdlsb.
Nunerals. 1,2,8, meg, vergu, verek. yek, du, seh.
1 —10. 4, 5, 6, chon, hink, vetz, char , pettf, shesh.
7, 8, 9, 10, yot, oot, in, dam. haft, hasht, neh, deh.
20 — 100. 20, 30, 40, ksan, yeretun, karasun, list, seh, chit.
50, 60, 70, hisun, vatsun, yotanasun . penjeh, shesht, hafteh.
80, 90, 100, ootsun, innesun, haryur . hashUh, natoet, sad.
10(H), hazar. hazar.
Yes , Tu, Na. Az, Tu , Au.
Menk , Tuk, Noka. Am, Hun , Wan.
Chur. Av.
Hats. Naan.
Oat . Shir.
Matsun. Mast.
Mis. Oust
Hav. Mrishk.
HavgiL Hek.
I, Thou, He,
We, You, They,
Water,
Bread,
Milk,
Sour-milk,
Meat,
Fowl,
Egg.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Batter,
Fish,
Bioe,
8alt,
Fruit,
Sugar,
Coffee,
Wine,
Brandy, spirits,
Bird,
Goat,
Sheep,
Ox,
Horae,
Boar,
Fire,
Wood,
Forest,
Man,
Woman,
Head,
Hand,
Foot,
Day,
Night,
Earth,
Heaven,
Moon,
Damage,
Carpet,
Kettle, pot,
Gun,
Rod
Halter,
Bridle,
Horseshoe,
Barley,
Grass,
Knife,
Axe,
Village,
Mountain,
River,
Rain,
Mud,
Wind,
Dust,
Stone,
8now,
Big,
Small,
Far,
Near,
. — The People :
Christians , Jews, Ac.
Armen Uo.
Kwdtoh.
Karak .
Tzug.
Piriftf.— Tk.
Ag.
Bdng.
Shakar. — Tk.
Run.
Mazi.
Pirinj.— Tk.
Khoi.
Meva. — Tk.
Bhekir. — Tk.
Surj.
Kahveh.—Tk.
Kini.
Sherab.- Tk.
Ofi.
Arak.
Terchun.
Tapir.
Aitz.
Binin .
Vochhar.
Pat , hot.
Yet.
Ga.
Tzi.
Had).
Arch.
Herj.
Grog.
Aghir.
TayA.
Bar.
Andar.
ReL
Mart
Merof.
Gin.
Jin.
Klukh.
8er.
Tzerk.
DezL
Vodk.
Prh.
Or, Jxtiz.
Ruzh.
Either.
Izhev.
Yergir.
Ard.
Yergink.
Atman.
Luzin.
Mehtab.
Per.
Bar.
Angorin.
JuL
Dnzhek, jeh.
Bar.
Brinz.
Kazan , manjel.
Heratzan.
Tufenk. — Tk.
Chivan.
Vent.
Homed.
7An.
BakhulZy KanoU.
Sant.
Bud.
Kari.
Havta.
Lagam.
N(U.— Tk.
Jeh.
Hod.
Ghia.
Tanak
Keri.
Pydad.
Keugh.
Bivir.
Gund.
her.
Chia.
Red.
Rubar.
Ansrev.
Baran.
Tterg.
Hari.
Kami.
By.
Pozhi.
Tot.— Tk.
Kar.
Gevr .
Tziun.
Berf.
Medt.
Matin .
Pokr, Bzdig
Btjug.
Hern.
Bur.
Mod.
Netdig .
[ 79 ]
Digitized by L^ooQle
[ 80 ] Introduction.
High,
Beautiful,
Deep,
Heady,
Good,
Bad,
White,
Black,
Green,
Red,
Yellow,
1 s
Like a oat,
l s s
Stronger than a mule,
12 3
(The) largest house.
I am ill, not well,
Give me,
Bring here,
Carry that for mo,
He is lying down,
We start to-morrow,
Will you dine ?
You havo lost tho road,
They are not coining,
— The People : Christiana , Jews, Ac.
ArmenUa.
Pargr.
Keretzig.
llorung.
Badrasd.
Lav , Pari.
Ke*h.
8pidag t Jermag.
Sev.
Gananj.
Garmir .
Terin
2 l
Gadu-bet.
3 2 l
Chori-en toravor.
2 13
Amenen-medt dun.
Yes hivant yem.
Bur inzi.
Per aider (this place).
Ar ayt inti hamar.
Ge knana.
Vaghe ge megnink.
G*ontek oudd ?
Jampan gortunteuUik.
Nolta ch'cn kur.
Kurdish.
Betind.
Khoth.
Keur.
Huxir. — Tk.
Ganj.
Put — Tk.
o . / Ganeepi —foaming
\ torrent.
Hash.
Shin.
Sor.
Ter .
1.2
Minag-Gedig.
2 3 l
Zhi-heetir b'kuvda.
3 12
Maleh matin -dir.
At na-khoth im.
Pda min (t'mira).
Bina livir.
Avi biger z’mtra.
Bateh ( ardeh ).
Suba (reh) derkevin.
D'khoten horen 1
lUh-vonda kiri.
( A)van na-ben.
To do, — make.
Want,
Know,
Talk,
Hear,
Rise,
Sleep,
Walk,
Ride,
Rat,
Drink,
Take,
Call,
Forget,
Arrive,
Strike,
Kill,
Fall,
End.
(had.
Kidnal.
Khonl.
Leed.
Ydnd.
Bargil.
Yerkdy kald.
Hedmal.
Oudd.
Khmd .
Amd.
Ganchd.
Ulomal.
Hamel.
Zamd.
Spand.
Inal.
Kirin.
Khotin.
Zanin.
Akhaftin.
Sakerin t B'hUtin.
Baben ( Peh ).
N'vidin.
Bichin.
Sutoar bun.
Horen.
Vakarin.
Standin.
Gati-kirin.
Birgirin.
Q'haihtin.
Kotan , leden.
Gotldin merandin.
Kyautin.
How, Nail.
Where, Ur-der.
When, Yerp.
Who, which, For.
Chavan.
Ki-dere, kani.
Kanaeh.
Ki t ktjan.
Syrians. — The Syrian (Aramaean) Christians are divided into Nestorians,
Ohaldaeans, New Ghaldaeans, Jacobites, and Protestants. They are
descendants of the old Aramaean population of Mesopotamia driven from
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction . — The People : Ghru(iam , /sws, etc., [81]
it§ ancient home by the encroeohmenti of the nomads and the butcheries ,
of Timftr. ,
The Afostortaik*, who call themselves Syrians, and do not reoognbe. the '
term Nestorian, derive tlieir name from Nestorius, who was born at Ger- j
manida ( Mmmh ), and was Patriarch of Constantinople (428-31). Nee- ,
torins opposed the epithet d* orator, ** mother of God,” and was oondemned
by the Council of Ephesus (431) ; bui he appears never to, have held the .
Nestorian doctrine that the God-man was two complete persons. His ,
followers found toleration under the rulers of Persia, the Abh&side Khali fs,
and the Mongols, and they spread to Arabia, India, and China. The
Nestorians are opposed to image worship, have no auricular confession, .
know nothing of purgatory, allow priests to marry, and do not eat pork.
They have several curious customs connected with the Lord’s Supper.
The Nestorians i were almost exterminated by Timftr; and their present
mountain home was invaded by the Kurd, Bedr Khin Bey of Bohtan in
1843, when frightful massacres were committed. They now number about
86,000, of .whom 25,000 live in Persia. 40,000 of those in Turkey are
tribal (AeAirrf), and 20,000 non-triba] {Rayah). They live chiefly in the ,
basin of the Great Zab, 8.E. of Van, but are also found in the valleys of
the Bohtan and Khahur and in other piaoes. In Persia they are most
numerous on the plains of Urmbn and Salmas, and in Urmia. . In both .
countries (they live side by side with Chaldaeans and Kurds. The tribal ,
Nestorians as a rule oocupy the mountain fastnesses, the non-trihal the ,
plains. The two principal tribes, the Tiyari and Choma, live in secluded ,
mountain valleys, and are practically independent. The former have a.
had reputation for lawlessness. The chiefs of tribes are called " Meleks ” ;
thev nave great power, and form an hereditary aristocracy.
The Patriarch, Mar Bhimun, who resides at Kochann^s (p. 230), and ,
has great influence, is the spiritual chief of all Nestorians. He is also the
civil head of the Nestorian community (millet) in, Turkey. He is
nominally elected by the Bishops and laity, but practically the election is j
confined to. one family.
The language of their religious books and of their church services is ,
Syriac , and they now speak a dialect of Syriac that contains many
Persian, Arabic, and Kurdish words. A somewhat different dialect, ,
Turani , is spoken in the Tur Abdin district, and another, near Mosul,
called fhhliun, in which the American missionaries at Urmia publish a
newspaper. .
The mountaineer* are men of fine physique, active, hardy, and capable
of carrying great weights. They bear arms and are equal in warlike
courage to their Kurdish neighbours, who they sometimes cloeely resemble
in dress and appearance. The tribal Nestorian* wear a special form of
onical cap, and have their hair plaited in two long pig-tails. The Persian
Nestorians dress like Persians. The Rayahs on the plains are crushed by
jioverty and cepturies of oppression. r J he Nestorians make good guides
and muleteers, and they are excellent basket-makers. They live in
scattered villages, some of which have curious names with Greek termina-
tion* The houses are very dirty, and many of the people are great raki
drinkers and not very hospitable. Maize, millet, rice, tobacco, and a few
cereals and potatoes are grown in most districts. Education is at a low
ebb, especially in the mountains, but the Nestoriaps have a capacity for
[Turkey.] h
Digitized by
Google
[ 82 ] Introduction. — The People: Christians, Jews, Ac.
promts, sad the labours of the British and American missionaries are
producing marked results.
The Chaldaeans are the descendants of Nestorians who, as a result of
French missionary efforts towards the close of the 17th century, seceded
from their old Church and joined that of Rome. They number about
48,000 in Turkey, and 8000 in Persia, and are great agriculturists, living in
the vicinity of Diarbekr and Jezire, and on the Urmia Plain. There are,
however, numerous scattered villages of mountaineers in the Bert Sanjak,
and in the basin of the Khabur. The Patriarch, Mar Elias, resides at
Mosul, and there are Archbishops or Bishops at Diarbekr, Khosrava,
Urmia, and other places. At Mosul there are good schools, and about
2 m. from Alkosh they have a large monastery, Rabban jriormuzd, where
are many rock-hewn cells, and tombs of early Patriarchs. The Chaldaeans *
sneak Syriac, Kurdish, or Arabic according to locality. Like the Nesto-
rians they Ore physically a fine race, and the steamera between Baghdad
and Basra are manned by them. : •
The New Chaldaeans are Chaldaeans who have reverted from Rome and
formed a new sect, electing their own Patriarch. They are most numerous '
at Alkosh, where they form two-thirds of the population. *
The Jacobites belong to the same stock as the Nestorians, and are thinly
spread over Syria, Mesopotamia, and Babylonia. In the Tur Abdin dis- '
trict (pp. 246, 2921 there are several large villages almost wholly Jacobite,
and here the i>ooplc speak the Turani dialect and Kermanji. They are a
fine manly race, carrying arms aud able to bold their own against the •
Kurds. The Jacobites derive their name from Jacobus (Bartdacus), who
became a monk at Constantinople, and was consecrated a Bishop in 641 or
643. Their siaritual chief is the Patriarch of Antioch, who resides at
Diarbekr; and next to him is the“Maphrian,"who has a kind of primacy
over the eastern part of the Church. The Jacobite Church has for its
distinctive doctrinal principle the tyonophysite thesis with regard to the
person of Christ
The Jacobites who have seceded from their Church and joined that of
Rome, call themselves S vriani, aud have a Patriarch at Aleppo.
'ilie Protestants are Nestorians and Jacobites who lutve seceded from
their churches and joined the Protestant Millet as a result of American
missionary effort.
The fabasaas (Suhba') are in number about 3000, and are mostly In
the Atnara and Muntafix Sanjaka of the Basra vilAyet They cbiim to
be followers of 8. John the Ba^ist (Neb i labia), and their 8heikh lives
at Suk esh-Shiukb. They baptize in running water and livo near river*
or streams. They have priests (mcllahs) who baptize and preside at all
religious ceremonies clad in white linen, crowned with wreaths of olive,
and bearing a cross of olive wood. They live a retired life, and their
religious ceremonies, at which no stranger is allowed to be present, are
performed in small oratories. Their language is 8yriac, and they are chielly
goldsmiths, smiths, or boat-builders.
In W. Anatolia there are several O oa s a sk and Bulgarian colonies.
The term Levantine is applied to anyone born in the East of European
Digitized by
Introduction . — American Mimom. [83]
parent*. The Levantines reside at Constantinople, Smyrna, and other
coast towns, and many of them are descendants of the old G e n oese and
Venetian settlers who. often intermarried with Greeks, and Armenians.
They are clever, intelligent, good linguists, lively, and giren to hospitality.
Most of them belong to the It 0. Church.
The J*wi ( Yehudi) are partly Polish and Russian (Aihkeiiazim), partly
Spanish ( Sephardim ), and partly remnants of the Captivity. At their
head is the Chief Rabbi, who resides at Ktizgunjik on. the Bosporus, and
occupies a position similar to that of the Christian Patriarchs. ' There are
religious and lay councils for the conduct of the spiritual ind temporal
affairs of the Jewish millet The Ashkenazim and Sephardim live chiefly
on the shores of the Bosporus, at Salonika, Smyrna, and in Palestine. The
latter hre wealthier, cleanet, and more moral than the former. The
remnants of the Captivity are poor and neglected. There are' colonies of
them at Bashkala, Diarbckr, Nisi bin, Zakho, Dokuk, AkrA, Berwari, and
Zibar.
The Gypsies (Chlngani or Zingari) are numerous and widely Spread.
A few live in villages, but most of them move about the country in
regular beats, and have fixed centres, at which they assemble periodically.
They live in tents, and pasture flocks, and are averse to settling down.
Some of them are Christian, and supposed to be Armenian ; some are
Moslem, aod some, from their appearance, must be of Indian origin. They
are horse-brokers, shoeing-smitlis, workers in tin ami copper, fortune-
tellers, musicians, &c.
§ 12. American Missions.
• The American Missions and schools have produced such striking and
far-reaching results In Asiatic Turkey that a short notice of their work is
necessary.
American missionaries wore first established in Turkey in 1819, and, by
1824, their enterprises of publication and education, their charitable work
:of free medical treatment and free instruction for tho poor, and tbeir
practice of conducting religious exercises in their houses, had been fully
initiated. In 1845 there were 34 Missionaries, 12 Helpers, 7 Schools, and
135 Pupils. In 1890 there were 177 Missionaries, 791 Helpers, 117
Churches, 11,709 Members, 464 Schools, and 16,990 Pupils. There were
also, connected with the Board of Missions, 5 Colleges, 26 High Schools
for Boys, and 18 High Schools for Girls. Four monthly, and 4 weekly
newspapers are published, and, in 1891, 86,775 books and pamphlets were
published in various languages.
In the colleges, where no attempt is made to interfere with the religious
tenets of tho students, sound instruction is given ifi Turkish, Ancient and
ModferU Armenian* English; Mathematics, Chemistry, Geology, Moral
Philoebphy, &c. There are also good Medical Schools. The education in
the girls* schools is s6und, practical, and specially adapted to fit them for
tbeir domestic duties. f , '
Digitized by c^ooQle
[84] Introduction . — Geology — Architecture .
... ■ ■ ■■ i * ■ •* ' •
§18. Geology.
> ,
Tho geology of W. Anatolia ia still imperfectly known. The great mass
of the ranee of Mt Taurus is limestone of the Cretaceous period. In the
northern districts this is replacod by saccharine limestones and mica
schists with other metamorphic rocks. The great table-land of , tho
interior is composed for the most part of a vast lacustrine formation of the
Tertiary period. Igneous rocks are found scattered through almost all
parts of the peninsula, and a remarkable chain of volcanic mountains
extends from Mt. Argseus to the Kara D. near Karaman. These moun-
tains are of a trachy tic character, and apparently belong to the Tertiary
period ; but in the Katakckawnene (p. 129) there are volcanic deposits of
a later date. Igneous rocks of an older character are found in many
districts; those in l*ycia are principally serpentine, whilst in the N.W.
various forms of trachy te prevail, ana several of thp minor ranges that rise
out of the table-land are of granite character.
The mineral wealth, p. p], is very great, but the mines are either
neglected or worked in a very primitive fashion. Though there &rp no
active volcanoes, Anatolia has been subject in all ages to frequent and
severe earthquakes.
§ 14. Architectube.
There are few countries that possess so perfect a series of illustrations
of the history of arcliitecture from the earliest up to tho Middle Ages as
Anatolia. It contains many remains of sculpture, structures, and tombs
anterior to Greek art.
Amongst these may be noted the rock-hewn f culptures at Yasili Kaya
near Boghaz K., Euyuk, Giaour Kalesi, 1 flat tin Buuar, Passilcr, Ivriz,
Praktin, the Niobe, and the 44 Sosostris " monuments near Nif. Amongst
structures are the rock-fortress on Mt. Sipylus, the Midas City, and
Pishmish Kalesi in Phrygia, the ruins of Plena, Ac. Tombe , which every-
where exist while all other contem|>orary buildings are in tho dust, are to
be met with in every province of the peninsula, eithor in the shape of
tumuli, such as those in the Troad; that of Tantalus on Mt. Sipylus ;
those of the kings of Lydia at Bin Tepe, near 8ardis; those in Anti
Tauras and other places; or of rock-hewn tombs such os the 44 Midas”
and 44 Lion ” groups of tombs in the Phrygian valleys ; and those carved
in the rocks of Lycia in imitation of wooden houses.
In the remains of temples and similar edifices of a more advanced
period Anatolia is richer toan Greece itself. These buildings, though
designed after the general principles of Greek art, possess, generally speaking,
certain peculiarities, either in proportion, arrangement, or ornamentation,
which render them well worthy o l separate study.
Of the ruins of the templee of Apollo Branchidae, near Miletus, of Juno
in 8amos, of Cybele at Sardis, of Minerva Polios at Priene, of Diana
Leuoophryne at Magnesia, of Bacchus at Teoe, of Apollo Smintheus iu
the Troad, of Venus at Aphrodisias, and of those at Asani, Assoc, Guromus,
Ephesus, Hierspolis, Comsns, Ancyra, and Pergamum, there are still
sufficient remains to enable tho traveller to form an idea of their pristioe
beauty.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction. — Inscriptions. [ 86 ]
’Phcre arc fine remains of theatres at Aspcndtis, Perga, Patara, SHc,
Myra, Iassus, Miletus, Termessus, Telmestus, Ephesus, Hierapolis,
Laodicea, Pergamum, Ac. Gymnasia, and stadia, baths, and bridges are
to be seen at Ephesus, Pergamum, Perga, Sagalamu*, Termessus, 8elge,
Pednelissus, Hierapolis, Laodicea, Sardis; Azani, and in the numerous
ruined towns of Lycia, most of them iii the Graeco-Roman style. Large
aqueducts at Niksar, Troas, Ephesus, Lao4icea, Patara, Tyana, Gezenne,
Ac . ; and rock-hewn tombs at Amasia,
Byzantine churches are to be found kt Hierapolis. Ancyra, Rarata,
Anadna, in Lycia, at Trebizond,’ Ac. ; and numerous chapels, tombs, and
ceils of anchorites in Cappadocia.
The ruins of Armenian churches, castles , Ac., are to be seen at Tarsus,
Sis, Anazarbs, in the Cilician Taurus, at Vkrzahan, Khakho, Eushk,
Ani, Echmiadzin, Ghergar, Vao, Akhlat, Palu, Ac.
The best remains of tidjUk mosoues, medresses, iombs, and khdns are at
Konia, Adalia, Alsya, Karaman, Nigdeh, Sultan Kh&n, Kaisariyeh, Sivas,
Amasia, Divrik, Rrzerftm, and Akhlat. . .
Osmanli mosques are at Yeni-shelir, add Brfisa. '
Interesting specimens of Western, l3th and 14th century, work may be
seen in the streets of Rhodes, at Budrflm, and at other places on the
coast. \
§ 16, Inscriptions.
Asia Minor is k paradise for the epigraphist. ** Written stones**
(yasiil tashlar) are to be found in two viRagoi out of three west of the
ICizil Irmak, and often in peat numbers.' It must be admitted that a
verv large proportion of the inscriptions of the Roman period are of
little interest ; out so often has an ancient site been identified and im-
portant ethnographical facts derived from a mere epitaph, that it is
incumbent on the epigraph ist to .co^y every stone of which he beehives
information. It cannot ue urged too Strongly on those who wish to
travel ib Asia Minor that an enormous number of unread inscriptions
exist in Very well-known places, and that tourists, not specially trained,
can do much for historical science by recording on paper just what they
see on a stone. The mechanical process Of taking paper impressions, or
M squeezes,” is easily learned and applied; the apparatus required consists
only of white paper — blotting-pajxir will serve, but a specially-prepared
material very like drawing paper [procurable in Paris (Moreau’s, Passage
du Pont Neuf, 11-14); in Berlin (Kbers Brothers) ; in Athens (Wild berga,
Hermes St.), and doubtless in other large centres] is better — a clothes-brush
and a sponge. If the inscription is “ Hittite” and in relief it is difficult
to make the paper adhere, but with ordinary inscriptions there is little
difficulty. • The surface of the stone should be brushed clean and then
thoroughly wetted; the dry paper should be laid on, then damped
copiously with a sponge, and finally hammered systematically with
the brbsh into the letters. The hammering should proceed regularly from
top to bottom, as the top dries most quickly, and air-bubbles beneath the
paper must be Worked downwards and out at the bottom. Then, if
possible, the paper, how thoroughly pressed inU> the letters, should be
left to dry on the stone. That done, it will retain a faithful cast of the
inscription for a long time and stand much rough usage *, it should be
Digitized by ^.ooQle
[86] Introduction. — Inscription*.
packed for carriage, it possible, iu a roll, it is well to tear off super-
fluous edges while the paper Is on the stone, to minimise the chauoe
of the wind getting under and lifting the whole; the surface of the
K may appear to be much M mashed " by the hammering process,
ill recover when it dries. To impress deep lettering on a rough rock-
surface it is often necessary to lay two. or throe sheets of paper one on
another. An overhanging surface presents great difficulties, as the
heavy wet paper is apt to fall, but, if the paper be cut into small pieces,
it can generally be induced to adhere. Finally, the operator may be
advised to spare neither water nor brush.
This simple process may be learned by practising on any rough wall ;
and by the help of paper, sponge, and brush, the tour of a wholly un-
trained person may be made to afford not only gratification to himself
but valuable results to science. Inscriptions are usually to be found in
cemeteries, mosques, fountains, and stone-masons* yards ; a little experi-
ence will soon enable anyone to tell at a glance and from a distance the
kind of stone which is likely to bear lettering, and the natives can
generally be induced by a small bakshish to remember whether there are
“ written stones ” in the houses. Inscriptions in private houses or court-
yards cannot be visited without the company of the owner or someone
connected with him, for the traveller who penetrates alone within the gates
will nin considerable risk from dogs.
The copying of inscriptions accurately requires a trained eye, but every-
one can do something; a notebook ruled en quadrille is valuable, and
earo should bo taken to notify the size of all gape, the faulty part* of tho
inscription, the probable original size and shapo of the stouo when broken,
and the circu m stances under which it was copied. All inscriptions arc
read best by a slanting light.
The inscriptions to be round in Asia Minor erp of several kinds
1. Hieroglyphic, the so-called “Hittite” texts, partly in relief, partly
incised. The characters are pictorial, and arranged in panels. These
texts are rare and found mainly in the east and centre of Asia Minor ;
south of the Taurus, in the direction of the Euphrates, they are also
found. The principal localities in Asia Minor aro Boghas Koui and Euyuk
in Canpsdocia, and on the lines of the roads, radiating thcnco; at and
near Tyana ; iu the anti-Taurus rogion and Lycaonia. These inscriptions
remain undeciphered at present,
2. Cuneiform. These are mot with very rarely, and aro stragglers
from tho trans-Euphratean country* Cuneiform tablets are found near
Kmisariyoh, and “ Vannic * inscriptions in tho region of Malaria. These
have been deciphered, though not entirely satisfactorily.
3. Inscriptions in load dialects, and expressed iu characters partly
identical with Ionian Crock, partly derived from non-rhocuician sources.
Tho best-known examines of this class are tho Lycion inscription*:
distinct varieties are found in tho rock-monument district of Phrygia,
and in Pamphylia, and isolatod texts in other parts of the peuinsula.
None of this class of inscriptions have been interpreted finally as yet. A
small number of epitaphs of a late period, written in an uukuown tongue,
but purely Creek characters, have been found in Phrygia and northern
Lycaonia.
4. Greek, by far the largest class and found all over the peninsula.
Digitized by c^ooQle
Introduction.— Inscriptions. [87]
The sites of the cots t~ci ties and Tillages, built near them, afford M written
stones" by hundreds; in the interior they are most common on Sites
near great roads, but beoonte very scarce east of the Halys (Kisil IrmakV
Greek inscriptions of periods prior to the establishment of the Seleucid
power in Asia Minor ( circa 280 u.c.) are to be looked for only on the
west coast. The most archaic examples have been found at Milotus ;
while Ephesus, Halicarnassus, Ac., have furnished Greek records of the
6tb century b.g. and earlier. Inscriptions of the Seleucid period are
found also on the southern coast, and, in yery rare cases, a short distance
inland along natural tradd routes, such is that up the Maeander Valley. .
In the Pergamene period Greek began, to be inscribed in Phrygia and
Pisidia, and more commonly after the establishment of the Roman
prorinoe. It was not however till the empire kraa established that the
practice became universal, for Hellenisation penetrated very slowly into f
the peninsula. Even in the 2nd century a.d., Greek was not spoken
by nearly all the toativee of the interior, and the chances are very much
in favour of any inscription, found in the interior, being of not earlier
date than the period of the Antoninee.
The classes into which Greek inscriptions fall are roughly : —
(а) Epitaphs, naturally far more numerous than any other class :
often valuable for the local names recorded or the list of offioes, Ac., held
by the deceased.
(б) Decrees of local bodies in honour of benefactors, especially Roman
emperors, and generally concerning public matters.
(c) Copies of decrees or rescripts made by individuals or public bodies,
auoh as the Roman senate or emperors. Of this class the famous Acts
of Augustus at Atioyra and the "cliartot of Orcistus” aro good examples.
(d) Lists of subscribers, Ac. — s.g. the inscription on a temple near the
Cory cian cave recording the names of its builders.
(e) Dedications to divinities, Ac.
Christian inscriptions began very early, but do not bear evident proof
of their character before the time of Constantine. They may often be
recognized however by such formulae as ?<rr« atrry wpbt t6v fair, or w pit
oixcuoirvrrfw row drov, in place of the usual record of penalty or fine
to be incurred for violation.
6. Latin, to be looked for principally in the vicinity of Roman colonies,
such as Antioch of Pisidia, Iconiom, Lystra, Ac. Latin texts are far less
numerous than Greek and are mainly official. The epitaphs of Roman
citizens may be recognised by the use of praenomen and nomm : tho
tribe is sometimes inserted also after tho nomen. Two- third* of tho
Latin inscriptions in Asia Minor are on milestones, which generally have
been collected together in the graveyards of the villages along the ooursc
of the Roman roads. The lettering is usually roughly cut and hard to
read, but expresses definite formulae, so that, if the emperor's name can be
deciphered, much can be inferrod with certainty as to tne titles, Ac., whicn
follow. At the end of the inscription is the number of miles, generally in
Roman numerals, sometimes in Greek as well, with or without the name
of the place reckoned from, and often also the statement that tho road
was made or repaired by or in the time of such and such a governor. As
each fresh restoration involved a fresh record, four or five milestones were
erected often in one spot. Erasures of the names of emperors, or
Digitized by L^ooQle
[88] Introduction . — Poolce and Mope.
members of their families — such as Gets, the brothef of Car&calla — are {
very frequent. Perhaps the most typical Roman road in Asia; Minor, .
with payement and pilestones complete, is that .learning from Olba
(Uzunja-burj) to the sea near Oorycus in Cilicia; but piore stones have .
been found alone the great road to the Euphrates (viA Cpmana, Cocusus
and Arabissus} than anywhere else in the peninsula. These .monotonous
records are often most valuable for topography and history, and should
never be passed by untried.
6. Lastly, we may call attention to the small class of mediaeval Arabic
inecriptiane , car yeti upon tombs or buildings of the Seljftk and early
Osmanli periods. Much of the history of the rise of Muhammadsp, power
in Asia Miuor is locked up in thesb inscriptions, which h*ve never been j
property read. It is high time that 00016 006 thoroughly {xraversant
with Arabic epigraphy should be sent to , such places as ,Konia,
Karaman, Ak-eerai, Nigdeh, Kaisariyeh, and so forth, to obtain records
of a period no whit less interesting or important than those which
preceded it.
§ 18. Books ahd Maps.
Von .Hammer, * Geschichte des Osmanischen Reiches ’ ; Rosen, • * Ge-
schichte der TUrkej ( 1826-56 )* ; Finlay, 'History of Greece’; Creasy,
'History of the Ottoman Turks’; Leake, 'Asia Minor’; Hamilton,
' Researches in Asia Minor * ; Fellows, ' Travels in Asia Minor and Lycia ' ;
Langlois, 4 Mission en Cilicie’; Perrot et Guillaume, 'Exploration de la
Rithyuiy et Galatie 1 ; l’crrot et Chipiez, ' Jiistoire do 1’Art eu Phrygie* ;
Toiler, ? Asie Miuouro'; Lauckorouski, 1 8 tad to Paiuphylico* uud
Pisidiens’; Hew ton, ' History of Diaooveries at Halicarnassus ’ ; Spratt
and Forbes, 'Lycia’; Wood, 'Ephesus’; Schliemann, 'Troy’; Berlin
Museum, ' Alter tiimer von Pergamop*; Humann aud Puchstein, 4 lteise
in Klein Asien und Nord Syrien*; Sterrett, 'Journey in Asia Minor ’;
Ramsay, ' Historical Geography of Asia Minor,’ i Church in the Roman
Empire’; Davis, 'Life in Asiatic Turkey,’ 'Anatolies’; Clarke, 'Exca-
vations at Assos’ ; Weber, ' Dinair, Apamrie Cihotos ’;. Ramsay, Hogarth.
Rent, ' Papers in Journals of R. Geogl. and Hellenic Sitcietjes.’
The best map « are Kiepcrl’s General Map, and his map of Western
Asia Minor,
Digitized by
Google
SECTION L
WESTERN ANATOLIA.
ROUTE 1.
CONSTANTINOPLE TO TRfeBIZOND
AND BATUM, BT SBA.
Bteamers (Austrian, French, Greek,
Russian, and Turkish) touch at the
chief towns on the coast, reaching
Shmsfin the second, Trebizond the
third, and Batftm the fourth day.
Tho coast scenery throughout the
voyage is fine, tho raounfcuns rising,
nearly overywhoro, etocply from tho
soa, and being clothod with magni-
ficent forests. On the highor slopes
are pine and fir ; and on the lower are
oak, chestnut, plane, hazel, beech,
boxwood, and walnut,— the last grow-
ing to a largo size.
After leaving the Bosporus and
passing Yum Bumu and the roadstead
of Rivo, the first ancient site of im-
nortanoo is Bregli, ITcradca Pontiea.
Heracles, a colony of the Megarians,
was situated on a small peninsula
about 24 m. from the river Lyeus, now
Kilij Su, and had two good harbours, of
which one was artificial. Owing to its
excellent position it soon rose to pros-
perity, and, whether as autonomous or
under tyrants, it maintained a promi-
nent place amongst the Greek colonies
on the southern shores of the Buxine
until it was plundered and partially
destroyed by Aurelius Gotta during
the war with Mithridates. It was
afterwards restored, and added to the
province of Pontus, but remained a
town of no importance. The poisonous
honey which, according to Pliny, was
found at Hemolea, is supposed to
[Turkey .]
have been derived from the yellow
Azalea pontiea, and tho purple Jlho.
dodendron.
Bregli stands on tho site of Tleraolen.
and in tho walls of the town and of
the houses are many fragments of
ancient architecture. In some gardens
to the north is the cavern Aeherusia,
through which Hercules is suppoeod
to have descended to the infernal
regions to onoounter Cerberus; and
near this spot are the ruins of an
aqnoduot, and of two tomplos that
have been convertod into ohurohos.
Near the town, which is cut off from
the interior by almost impassable
mountains, are coal mines that were
worked by a European oompany during
the Crimean war. The mines furnish
excellent steam and gas coal, but the
arrangements for working them are
very dcfectivo.
From Bregli small steamers run
occasionally W. to Akehe-shehr, the
port of Boll; and E., past Filiyatu
anct. TYum, the birthplace of the
founder of the Pergameninn dynasty,
to Barton, on the Barton 8n f anct.
Parthenius, — a river connected in
Greek fable with Artemis, who is
to **ave hunted on its banks and
bathed in its waters. , Bartan, whonoe
a road rant through fine moun ta i n
scenoiy tq Zafaranboli (p. C), is still
noted for the exoelient boxwood grown
in the neighbourhood. Beyond Barton
is Amasra, anct. Amastris, founded by
Amastris, the nieoe of the last Persian
king Darius, and wife of Dionysius,
tyrant of Heraoleo. The original city,
which soems to have been colled
Digitized by
Google
2
Route 1 . — Ineboli — Sintib.
Sesamus, is said to have been combined
with Cy torus, Cromna, and Tium, to
form tho now oommuuity of Amastris,
but the account is not quite to be
relied on, for Tium at least oontinued
to be an important city. Pliny, in a
letter to Trajan, describes it as “a
handsome city,” and it was a town of
some note as late as the 9th century,
a.d. It was at one time a Venetian
settlement and afterwards a Genoese
depot. A small village now occupies
the site of the ancient town which
stood on an isthmus between two
ports ; there are nuiny remains of old
buildings, the walls of the oitadel,
tho ruins of an uquoduot, Ac. After
passing Kcrembe Burun , anct. Prom.
Carav&U , the steamer reaches
Ineboli, Abouni-teioho «, the birth-
place of the impostor Alexander, and
called in later times Ionopolu. Tho
town is prettily situutod at tho mouth
of a wooded ravine, from which Hie
Dcvrikhd n Chat issues; it is the port of
KastamQni, and is connected with that
town by a road (Rte. 4). Flax and
cotton are grown iu the vicinitv, and
there is a Targe export of wool and
mohair. There is no harbour, and in
bad weather landing is impossible.
The steamer now keeps close to the
shore, and passes Inje Burun , anct.
Syria*, or Lepte aera , beyond which
lies
Sin fib, Sinope, situated on a low,
narrow, sandy isthmus which connects
the mainland with tho remarkable
promontory of Box Tepe, now a quaran-
tine station. Sinope, tlie most im-
portant of all the Greek colonies on
tho Euxine, is said to have been
founded by Autolycus, a companion
of Hercules. It was oolouiwd by
Milesians (augmented at a later period
by Athenians sent by Pencks),
and was noted as the birthplace of
the cynic philosopher Ihogenee.
Occupying a control position, on
the only safe roadstead between the
Bosporus aud Batflm, and situated
at tho end of the road that ran
from the Euphrates, through Ptoria,
to the Euxine, it soon rose to great
power and prosperity. It was the
harbour on the N. for the products of
Central Asia and Cappadocia, in-
cluding the famous Sinopic red earth,
and was one of the three chief seats
of the tunny fishery. Its fleet was
supreme in the Euxine, and in the
time of Xenophon its dominion
reached to the Halys, Kixil Irmak,
and its influence extended over large
portions of Cappadocia and Paphla-
gonia. In B.O. 183 it was taken by
Pharnaoes, king of Pontius who made
it the capital of his kingdom. It
was the birthplace of Mithridatea the
Great, who made a harbour on each
side of tho isthmus, built a naval
anenal, and strengthened tho fortifi-
cations. After the buttle of Cyzious
it was taken by Lucnllus, and a little
later it was made a Roman colony
by Caesar. In the time of Strabo it was
still a largo and well fortified city,
but its greatness was tlicu past. It
formed part of the mediaeval empire
of Trobizond, and in a.d. 1460 fell
iuto tho hands of the Turks.
Siniib is cut off from the interior
by high wooded mountains, through
which there is no good road ; there is
little trade, and Russia alone lias a
Consulate. The Modem quarter is
enclosed by massive walls, with towers,
which follow the shore and run across
the isthmus; the Greek quarter is
outside the walls. On the side to-
wards the mainland is the citadA .
The walls, are largely built of old
matorial,and many mutilated columns,
architraves, and inscriptions are em-
bedded in them. Some portions of
tho old mole are visible, and thero
are a few Roman substructures, but
otherwise thero are no traces of the
mngnifleenoe of the ancient town.
There is a small Turkish garrison,
but the large naval arsenal and
dockyard have been closed. Near
the sea the rock is a sharp shelly
limestone, full of small circular holes,
apparently resembling thoso described
by Strabo. The roadstead to the E.
was the scene of tits burning of tits
Turkish fleet by the Russians on
Nov. 30, 1833.
Beyond BiuQb, a low wooded pro-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
8
Route 1. — Sams&n— Unieh. . v
montory, forming the apex of the
delta of the Kiril Irmah the largest
riyer of Asia Minor, is passed, and the
steamer then, passing heights well-
ooyered with Tillages and oom-flelds,
enters the bay of
Bamsftn, Amisut, the best starting-
point for journeys in Pontns and Cap-
padocia (Kies. 18, 14). The town is
of considerable commercial import-
ance, but not of imposing appearanoe.
It skirts the shore on the W. side of
the bay, but some of the better houses
run up the hills behind. There are a
few mosques with minarets and a fine
Greek church. The stroets are narrow
and dirty, but there is a large covered
baz&r where all requisites for a journey
in the interior can be obtained. A
Frank Quarter lies to the E., near the
new Government Offloee, and is much
cleaner and better laid out In it,
near the sea, are two fair locandat.
The place has a bad name for danger-
ous fevers in summer and autumn,
and travellers should, when possible,
avoid sleeping in it There has,
however, been a marked improvement
since the efforts made during the last
few years to drain the fever-breeding
marsh. The anchorage, which is
swept by the guns of two batteries,
is fair, but landing in winter, especi-
ally after a northerly gale, is difficult
and sometimes dangerous. There are
large exvorU of tobacco, cereals,
flour, yellow berries, do.
Amlsus, EM Samt&n, stood on a
promontory about 1} m. N.W. of the
modern town. It was next to Sinope
the most flourishing of the Greek
settlements on the Euxine ; and under
the kings of Pontus, one of whom built
a palace there, it was a rich trading
town. It was taken by Lucnllus
during the Mithridatio war; was
made a free city by Caesar; and, after
passing through many vicissitudes,
was liberated % Augustus from the
Tyrant Strhton (b.o. 30). It adopted
as its era the great victory of its
liberator at Aotium (b.o. 81), When
Strabo wrote (a.d. 19) it had dis-
placed Sinope as the northern port of
the great trade route from Central
Asia, During the rule of the Oomneni
at Trebizond it was one of the chief
towns of their kingdom, and it
existed as a separate town as late as
the 18th cent, when it is mentioned
as being in alliance with the Turkish
(Se^Ak) settlement of SatnsAn. In
the reign of Bayezid I. it came into
the possession of the Osmanli Turks.
Tne old port is silted up, and partly
oovered with gardens, but there are
still traces of the ancient mole. On the
hill upon which the acropolis stood
are remains of walls, slabs of marble,
Roman tiles and pottery, and a few
fragments of Hellenic masonry. The
ruins of the templo mentioned by
Hamilton in 1886, have almost dis-
appeared. After leaving SamsAn, the
mouths of the Iris, Ytthil Irmah , and
of the Thermodon, Terme Su, and
the district occupied by the fabled
Amazons, are pawed, and soon after-
wards the town of
Unieh, Oenoe, is seen, built in the
form of an amphitheatre, and charm-
ingly situated on a small promontory.
Most of the houses are or wood, and
some are built over the sea on piles ;
but latterly more substantial buildings
have been erected. Unioh is the
nearest port to Sivas, and there is
a carriage - road from it to Niksar
(ttte. 17). There are no remains of
antiquity, but near the village of
Kaleh Keui , 4 m. up the valley of the
Unieh 8u, there is a lofty pre-
cipitous rook, surrounded by deep
glens and wooded hills, which is
crowned by a remarkable CSeutfe, pos-
sibly one of the strongholds of Mith-
ridates. A curious aepulohral monu-
ment has been cut in the f&oe of the
rook in the form of a tetrastyle temple.
The inhabitants of this district are
miners and oharooal burners, like the
Chalvbes of old. The iron ore is
found in small nodular masses, in a
bed of dark yellow day, and it is
smelted in a common blacksmith’s
forge ; it only yields 10 p. o. of metal.
Good tobacco is grown in the valleys.
Beyond Unieh the coast scenery
increases in beauty ; the villages are
numerous, and tho mountains ore
b 2
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 1 .—Kerasund- Trebizond.
well wooded, arid graoeful in outline.
After phasing Yas&n BuruA met
Jason turn Pr., and Vona IAmdn, tho
beat winter harbour E. of Constanti-
nople, we teach Ordu, Ootyora* a small
but rising place, whence there is a
road to Zara, and Sifts (Rte. 19).
Some remains bf an anoient port out
out of the solid rock are the only
traces of the town at which the Ten
Thousand halted before embarking
for Heraolea About 25 m. to the
Kerasund, Pharnapi* , situated at
the extremity of a rooky promontory
which is connected with the mainland
by a low wooded isthmus. The highest
point is crowned by a Byzantine
Fortress, from which a massive wall,
containing large fragments of Hel-
lenic masonry, stretches down to the
•ea on both sides, and forms the de-
fence on the land front. The sea
walls, where standing, are Byzantine,
and near them are the ruins of two
small Byzantine churches. Phar-
nacia, rebuilt or founded by Pharnaoes,
king of Pontus, is said to have been
originally called Choeradet; but in
Homan times the name of Cerasus
(Bee below) was appliod to it, whence
the modern name Kerasund. It was
strongly fortified by Mithridates. and
was the place at which his wives
and sisters were put to death to pre-
vent their falling into the hands of
Lucullus. The wild cherry, which is
said to have boon introduced into
Italy by Lucullus from this place,
grows m great abundance on the
neighbouring heights, which are
clothed with an almost tropical wealth
of verdure. From Kerasund a road
runs to Bhabin Kara bissar and the
mines near it (Rte, 18).
Byzantine churches. 2| m. to the E.'
aro old silver mines, supposed to be
the Argyria of the ancients. From
this point onwards the coast is covered
by luxuriant vegetation. It is one
continuous garden of azaleas and
myrtles, deep wooded valleys, and
high wooded hills, intersected: by
numerous streams, and the . steamer
r tes so near that the shore is visible
all its picturesque beauty. Tho
capes of Kureli Burun and Yeros
Burun , the site of Cerasus, and Phi-
tana Bay, the winter anchorage of
Trebizond, are passed, and the steamer
then arrives at
Trebizond, Trapetu* (see Rte. 07).
Beyond Trebizond the picturesque
beauty of the coast is very striking.
The mountains of ^azistbn, clothed
with dense forests, rise from 1000 to
8000 ft above the sea. The forests
supply charcoal, firewood, and timber
for the construction of houses and
boats used in the coasting trade. The
country is so wooded that it does not
supply sufficient grain for the con-
sumption of the inhabitants, yet every
available spot is cultivated. Corn-
fields aro to bo seen on the precipitous
sides of the mountains which no
plough could reach. The ground is
prepared by manual labour with a
two-pronged fork. Indian oorn is the
grain chiefly grown. Tho people are
a hardy and laborious raoe, skilled in
tho uso of tho riflo, and enjoy a high
reputation as sailors.
Bailing along the coast from Tro-
bizond we pass ui suooossion SurmencA,
anct. Susurmaena, (Rte. 72); Rica,
anct. Rhitus (Rte. 72); Atina, anct.
AtKenas; the Russian frontier; the
Choruk 8u , and finally reach Bat&m
(Rte. 78).
31 m. beyond Kerasund is the island
Kerasund Adasi , anct. Aretias, cele-
brated for iU temple of Mors erected
by two Amazonian queens. Zcfrt
Burun, anct. ZepAyHu m Pr., is next
passed and then lirsboli, TripoHs, a
■mall town embosomed In wooded
bills overhanging the sea. Here there
ore a mediaeval castle, and two small
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 2. — Ada-bagdr — Bolt. $
110UTE 2.
8KUTARf— BOU — K AST AM UNI — BOIA*
VAO — 8AM8UN.
A<W-b Mir Button (by Rati)
Ada*bastr
KbaodaAi .
Boll (Biikgnittm)
ftereoeh (CVs/tui) .
Khin i
Xafkranboll (Madrid rusts')
Arach ....
KasUinAnl CCtutamum)
Taah'keopn (I'ompainpolU)
HoUvad ....
Ksrry over KUil Irmak
Vlrlr - keupri (Pkatemon - A'i
Kbevta (TXcrmae Phot.) j
Hem* An (Jmisut)
Horses for tlte first stages of the
journoy osn be hired at Ismhl or
Ada-bazAr. Tlie road from Skutari
through Ismid and Sabaoja is a Terr
beautiful one, but most travellers will
prefer making the journey by rail to
Ada-baxAr station, whence carriages
and hones can be hired to visit JuA-
tinlan s Bridge, and cross the plain
(2 hrs.) to
Ada-baxAr, M island bazAr,” an im-
portant trading-town, situated between
tlio Baknrfa, anct. Sanparius, and tho
Chark, anct Matas, a small stream that
drains the Sabanja Lake. Then are
silk manufactories, and a large trade
in tobacco, and walnut wood. The
town covers a wide area, as the houses
stand in theit own gardens, and are
built 6n either side of A Iqog street
which marks the line of the military
freed from Constantinople to the East
It suffered severely from the earth-
quake of 1894. Though little above
the sea level, and liable , to be flooded
ill winter and spring, it is not un-
healthy. It is the seat 6f an Arme-
hiah bishopric. On leaving Ada-
basAr, the road erodes the RAkaria by
a long wooden* bftdgo; it then rans
over a fertile plain, with several slug-
si
N
lot
13
•4
8
HI
11
ll
gish streams, to the foot of the hills
(4 hraX and aseends through pretty
forest soenery to Khandak (8 hrs.X a
small village in the forest, and the
residence of a mudir, who superin-
tends the supply of timber to the
Constantinople Arsenal. The road
now leads up a narrow glen in the
forest, and over the crest of the hill
(84 hrs.X alt 1400 ft., to the deep
and sluggish Milan Su, Hppim s, aver
which there is a wooden bridge. It
then crosses the plain to Dngfsh (5 hrs.)
alt 000 ft, a snail town, with some
ancient columns, cornices, Ac., on tbo
toad from BoU to Akche-slielir. On
tho plains of Ada-baxAr and Duxjeh,
and in the forest country between
them are numerous Circassian settle-
ments.
[One hour N. of Duzjeh, at tho
edge of the plain, is Uskub, whence
the road from lloli runs over high
well-wooded ground to Akcke-ihShr
(10 hrs.) on the coast (Rte. 3> At
Uskub, Pruiiai ad itypivm, there are
numerous intcripUon* and extensive
remains, amongst which ate missivo
fragments of toe old walls, a fine
gateway, and a theatre.]
After leaving Duzjeh the read,
which in places is very bad, ascends
through some fine forest scenery, aud
crossing the Bolt Dagh, alt 4000 ft!,
whence an extensive view is obtained,
descends sharply to the important
town of ...
Bell (8| hrs-X dt 2800 ft It Is
surrounded by gardens, and sitdated
in the middle of a rich plain, watered
by the Boll Su, a tributary of the
rtUfo* Chai, anct Billaetu. Inter-
mittent fever is common in the town,
but the ootratry round is healthy and
well cultivated, and there are nume-
rous villages on the slopes of the hills.
One hour E of Boli is Xskl-hissar,
Bitkynium, the birthplaoe of Anti nous,
of which fret its ooins boast It was
‘sometimes oalled Anlinoopolu , but in
Byxanlins times it was always known
as daudiopolii. There are numerous
Greek inscription*, dating from the
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 2 . — QeredeK — Zafdranboli.
Roman period, mostly monumental;
and in the cemeteries in the villages,
and in several places on the plain are
fragments of columns, capitals, archi-
tectural details and inscriptions. 8.
of Boli, on the slopes of the Ala Dagh,
are the warm springs of IUja, which
are visited in summer for their medi-
cinal properties.
[From Boli a road, passing through
fine scenery, runs up the valley of
the Boli Sfi to Muaurlu (12 hrs.),
and thence to NaUt-khdn (8 hrs.) on
the Ismid - Angora road (Rte. 7).
There is also a direct road to Bey-
bazar (16 hra., p. 14) over the range
of the Galatian Olympus.]
The road to Geredeh ascends
through a beautiful forest, and at 10
railcsakli&n is passed (Greek inscrip-
tions). It then outers a prosperous and
well cultivated district, diversified by
hills, rivers, villages, and lakes.
Geredeh, Oratcia - FlaviopolU (9
lira.) ; alt 4530 ft. Crateia, of which
there are many fragmentary remains,
' was an episcopal oity under the Byzan-
tine emperors. The modern city,
built on the hillside, is surrounded
by gardens and woods; it has large
tanneries, and, being the centre of toe
tiftik (mohair) trade of the district, is
much freauented by Christian mer-
chants. Pear, apricot, peach, and
cherry trees grow well here. On
leaving Geredeh the road continues
along the southern slope of the hills,
and, passing through a fine forest
country, descends to a small plain in
whioh are two lakes (4 hra.). Near
one of these, the Kara Qeul, the road
toZaiaranboli leaves the old Baghdad
post-road (Rte. 6), and, taking a
N.E. direction over the spur of a hill,
descends by a steep zigzag to a valley
in which there is a khan (4 hrs.), where
a fair is held every Friday. Henoe the
road runs over hilly ground, and down
a rocky ravine, in whioh is a column
with Greek inscription, to Khdn Keui
(4 hrs.). Lower down it leaves the
ravine and crosses a spur to the
Baindir 8u f which is forded (4J hrs.) ;
it then passes over low hills to a bridge
over the Arach Su , and in 2 hrs. reaches
the well built town of
Zafsranboli (2 hrs.), alt IKK) ft.
which apparently occupies the sito of
Hadrianopolis , or Gkrmia-Theadorias.
Its ohuron, as shown by an inscription
of doubtful antiquity, was dedicated
to 8. Theodor us, aud its modern name,
according to Prof. Ramsay (A. Jf. 824X
was perhaps derived from 0 *oS»p(ar
n6\i y. The town is built at the junc-
tion of two small streams at the foot of
the Duran Dagh , and has two Quarters,
£ a mile apart The Moslem quarter
on the E. has two large mosques, and
on high ground overlooking it is the
Konak , or Government house. The
Christian quarter, with its large Greek
church built on high ground, is to the
W. Tlio water supply is good, and
W. Tlio water supply is good, and
the gardens along the Arach 8u arc
well cultivated. There ore many
vineyards, and much safixon is grown
for export to Syria and Egypt All
the rocks in the vicinity are fossil -
iferous,
[About 2 hra. 8. of Zafaranboli is
the romantically situated village of
Hajji Ovaiit or JET. Abbas, on the road
from Baindir (p. 12) to Kastamfini.
Near the village are some curious
excavations in the face of the hills.
Tlio most remarkable is that in an
isolated rock, which has been hollowed
out into a circular chamber entered
by 3 square doors, similar to those at
Karli, between Bombay and Poona.]
The road to Kastamftni ascends the
wooded valley of the Arach, passing
numerous villages on either side* to
Arach (12 hra.), a village built on
both hanks of the river, which is here
spanned by a bridge. There are the
re mains of a mediaeval fort, and near
the konak a weekly fair is held. Con-
tinuing up the valley, narrowed to a
rocky gorge between wooded hills, and
passing interesting fossil iferous rocks,
a small plateau, alt. 4000 ft, coveted
with pines, is crossed (6 J hrs.), and the
road then descends to . tl
Kas t amfinl or Kastambfil, Castamon
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 2 . — Kastamdni — Boiavad.
r
(3 hrs.), the capital of a viltyet ;
alt 2500 ft The town it situated
in the narrow Taller of the Otuk
lrmak, “blue river, anct Amnia*,
4 m. above its iunotion with the
Dadai Chat. An old castle, attributed
to the Com neni, orowns a rock? hill
on the N.W. of the city, which is
built on the steep sides of the valley.
The konak stands on an open space
on the E. side ; there are some 30
mosques, of which 3 are substan-
tial stone buildings, erected during
the 8elj0k period. The Greeks and
Armenians each hare a church, and
there are some good houses in the
Christian quarter on the W. side of
the valley, but the majority of the
houses are wooden frames filled in
with sun-dried bricks, with tile roofs.
The ground-floor is usually a stable,
and the upper floor tho dwclling-
ltouso. The mangals and other uten-
sils of copper, and the boots and shoes
of Kaatamflni, have a high reputation,
and there is a large trade in tiflik
(mohair). Though subject to ex-
tremes of heat ana cold, tho climate
is generally healthy, and tho water-
supply good. The surrounding oountry
has a bleak appearance, haying
been completely denuded of wood for
fuel. During the winter Kastamflni
is almost cut off by snow from com-
munication with tho outer world.
The Muhammadans have tho repu-
tation of being bigoted, partly ac-
counted for by tho number of reli-
gious chiefs, sheikhs, and dervishes in
the city. Turkish is the only language
spoken, even among the Christiana
who live in Muhammadan fashion.
Cadamon, though an important city
in later By ran tine times, is never
mentioned in Roman or early Bysan-
tine documents. It tras apparently
the oentre of a district which had a
different centre, Dadybra, in earlier
times. The place was taken by ' the
Danish mind Emirfc of Sivas, and was
afterwards captured by Bayexid I.
There are, some rock -cut chambers,
the earring of the facade to which ap-
pears to be of the late Gfoek period.
Them are two reads from Kastamflni
to Tash-kettpri, the shorts* crossing an
elevated plateau (3000 ft) intersocted
by numerous streams running down
from the mountains. The longer and
better road, following the right bank
of the Otuk lrmak, crosses by a wooden
bridge (4 hrs.) to the loft bank and
then runs down the valley, through
numerous villages, to
Taah-keupri, M stone bridge,” Pom-
ptiopoli * (4 hrs.). A small town on
the right bank of the Amnias. There
are many architectural remains, seve-
ral intoripiiom, and a number of
ancient tombs, in which glass and
pottery have been found. In the
vicinity, according to 8trabo, the
mineral called Sandarak was found.
Two roads lead to Boiavad; tho
shorter, 9) hrs., at first merely a
mountain track through the forests of
the llik Daak, traverses more open
country in its later course. The longer,
but better, rend passes over some
slightly rising ground, and then runs
down the valley to Owmam Keui, where
the road to Sinope fRte. 5, a.) branches
off N. It then follows the course of
the Gouk lrmak, through a well-popu-
lated valley, in which Mithridates de-
feated Nicomodes and Marius, a.a. 88,
to , , t
Boiavad or Boiabad, u dye-town”
(lli hrs.), a small town inhabited
solely by Muhammadans. It is pret-
tily situated on a tributary of the
Geuk lrmak, and the valley Is filled
with luxuriant gardens. On a pic-
turesque rock, 300 ft above the river,
is an old castle, probably Bysantine,
which was occupied by an indepen-
dent Bey as late as 1830. Large
auantities of Hoc are grown in the
district, and fevers are prevalent One
hour from Boiavad the road to Vixir-
keupri crosses the Geuk lrmak by a
wooden bridge, and then continues
down the valley, in which a good deal
of rioo is grown, to Durin (5 hrs-X
the residence of a mudir. One hour
lower down the Geuk lrmak joins the
Kisil lrmak, anct. Half*, which,
flowing from the 8.W. through a
rocky impassable gorge, here turna
sharply 8.E. Tho two rivers at their
Digitized by
Google
8
Bouie S.—Kandra.
junction are separated by a remarkable
rook, Kapu Kaya , in the face of which
are several artificial oaves. On? hour
further, the road enters a narrow defile
through which the river has forced its
way. The soenery is wild and grand ;
the mountains are intersected by deep
wooded ravines, and rooky pinnacles
rise from the water’s edge. This
pass is probably that mentioned by
Xenophon as the entrance to Paph-
lagonia. After emerging from the
gorge the road runs over more open
ground to the ruins of an old Homan
bridge (fi hrs.). The stream is here
brqad, very rapid, and except in
summer unfordaole. It is crossed by
a ferry-boat, which tukes | hr. going
and returning from bank to bank.
On reaching the rt. bank the road
leuves the nver and ascends some low
hills, for 1 hr., to N&l Kepi, X in. beyond
which . there is a Homan ' milestone,
with inscription. The road then passes
over ojicn rolling country to
Yisir-keupri, rhazemon-NeapolU , or
possibly Qatthn (3 hrs.) ; aty. 800 it.,
an important town in the Sivas vilAyet.
It is situated ip a hollow through
which a small stream pins, and has p
btteden or oovered bazir. There are
several Groek inscriptions, broken
columns, &o. 4 hrs. to the 8. on a high
pouk is an old castle. Tavnhan Kal
From Yixir-keupri there is a direct
toad to Samafln in 20 hrs.; but the
usupl road runs over the lower, slopes
of the Tavdian Dugh, to Khsvs* (0
hrs., p. 39), and thenpe by Jtte. 14 to
fiamsfin (10 hrs., p. 8).
i
ROUTE 3. ‘
I8MI0 — KANDRA — KEFKEN BAY“
AKOHE-8HEHR — EREQLI.
mu. *
Kandra 12
Kefken (Cdlpt) . 4|
Sakada Ferry .... 6
Akcbsndiehr . . 10 J
Krcgli ...... Ik
Ismid is connected with Kefken
Bay, on the Block Sea, by an araba-
ruud whioh after icaviug the town
runs E. for 2 m., and then crosses
some scrub-covered hills, 1000 ft. high,
to the village of Seierlu. It then keeps
down a wooded vulley, and after cross-
ing the stream bv a bridge (6] hrs ),
passes through faihlu (lj hrs.) sud
Chadilar (lj hrs.) to Kandra (2J hrs.),
alt 250 ft, on rt. bank of a stream
rmmiug into tbo Block Sea. llcro it
is ioiucd by a road from Sliilo (OL
Kilia), anct. Artane •, a tovp of some
bizq, about 25 m. to the W. The road
now crosses the high ground east of the
Kandra Dagh — a peak conspicuous
from the Black Sea — to Kurj Keui,
and follows the ‘‘ deep flowing" ptreaui
Calpc, between densely scrub-covered
hills to Xsfksn (4j hrs.), a small yillagp
on the site of Calpe, where there
was a port, now Kirpe Liman , which
is minutely described by Xenophon.
Thence the road follows the ooost of
the Black Sea, passing Kefken Bay —
2 m. beyond the yUlac an open
roadstead lying (3. W. of Kirpe Island,
(pet. Apolloni a - Thyniat, and the site
of Dengu Keui to the fyikaria (5 hrs.).
The river is here broad and deep ; it
is navigable for some miles, and is
crossed by ferry-boats. Beyond the
river the road runs along the ooost,
through ltytrlu and Kuujurlu (4 hrs.),
on the right bank of the Kara Su, to
the Milan Su (2) hrs,), the boundary
between the epnjak of Ismid and
vilAyet of J£pgtarotyp The road
now turns jnlond over lulls thickly
covered with chestnut-trees, ai.d pass-
Digitized by Tooele
.9
Route 4. — Yaprakli.
ing through the villages of Kalkum,
Topux-ogtuu, and Tavtui (480 ft), de-
scends hf a sharp fall to the valloy of
the Akche-shqhr Su, which it follows
to the town of Akohe-shehr, Diospolie
(4 hrsA the port of Boli, to which
town there is a rood (p. 5). A track
runs round the bav to feregli (7|
hrs.), but it is usual to cross by water
(Bte. 1).
ROUTE 4.
INEBOLI — KA8TAMUNI — CHANQRA
- — ANQORA.
IlltS.
Jcvsd-oghlu-kliAn 7*
Hnklllar 4*
Ksstamdnl (CatUnum) •
Bcstaii Kent . 6|
In Kent . ... «| ,
Mersic 4 |
Changra (Gangra) • 3J .
Kalfjlk (Acilorisutcum) . . 13 ,
Angora (Jncyra). .11
Ineboll (Rte. 1) is connected with
Kastamfini by a macadamised rood,
made at very great expense, which is
noW out of repair. For 2 m. the
road fqllows the Devri-khin Chat, and
then after ascending by steep feigzagft
and Winding round lofty hills, where
traffic is often stopped bjr snow in
winter, it descends to a bridge over a
mountain torrent, whence there is an
ascent to Kureh (6) hrs.), alt 8350 ft.
At this village are the celebrated
copper-mines which are supposed to
have, been worked by the Romans,
The mines are in many cases filled
with water; but they were formerly
very productive, and would, probably
j ray if reopened and properly worked.
One hour beyond the mines is Jevad -
oghlu-khan, the . usual halting-place
for travellers, to Kastamfini.. The ruud
now crosses the Ohatal Tepe (4200
ft), and posses over open well-culti-
vated country with many villages to
Devri-khin, or Saidilar (41 hnjA a
small village on tlio Vevri-lthin Cnai;
it then continues over the bore hills
of trap and limestone on either side of
the Dadai Chai to Kaetamuni (Rte. 2)
in the valley of the Geuk Irmak
(6 hrs.).
The road from Kastamfini to
Changra was laid but ambitiously,
but never completed. The old road
passes through the town and runs up
the valley for 5 m. ; it then climbs the
hill, and croesos the plateau, post
several small villages and Kaya-Mian,
to the vallev of the Kara 8u, which it
ascends to Boston Keui (6] hrs.). From
this village, which forms a convenient
halting place, there is a steep ascent
of 5 m. to the guard-house at the head
of the pass (6400 ft.), over the UJguu
Daah , anct Olgassys, whence there is
a descent by a made road to In Kent
(6| hrs.) in the valley of the Deve-
refc Su , 2 m. below Koch-hissar
(Rte. 6). 8. of the river tho rood,
which is passable for arabae, runs
over bare bills and valleys to Mersic
(4| hrs.), and then partly, for 4 m.,
over ground covered with crystals of
gypsum to Changra (3) hrs.).
[An alternative route from Kasta-
infini to Changra (26 hrs.), passing
through some fine scenery, runs over
bare hills to the Kara Su (14 hrs.), and
over two ranges of hills, alt 8500 ft,
to 'Kara-dere 8u (2j hrs.); it then
ascends to Chobap Keats, on the 8. side
of the valley (8 hrs.), where there aro
large numbers of Angora goats, and
crosses the Ulaax Dagh (8 hrs.), alt.
5800 ft., to Toeia (Rte. 6), in the
valley of the Deverek Su (2$ hrs.).
The track now crosses the nver, and
asoends to Yapfakli (7J hrs.), where
an annual fair, formerly of great im-
portance, and attended by 1500 mer-
chants, but now by about 200, is held,
and the tomb of jBliat is shown. It
then descends to Tukht (1J lire.), a
small village with a mudir and a few
Chrltt’anr, and striking the valley pf
Digitized by ^.ooQle
10
Route 4. — Changra — Kalejik.
the AM Su, follows it to Changra
<5 h«!S.3
Ohangra or Kankari, Qangra, Qer-
manicopolu , stands at the junction pf
the Ooroan Chat and Ait Su (alt. 2500
ftA The houses are built below the
ruins of an ancient castle, now in a
very dilapidated condition. A build-
ing, called the Mesjid Task, is the re-
ported site of a massacre of Christians
by the Oamanlis. Its masonry is well
dressed, and appears to be of the best
Seljfik period. On one stone is a
Greek inscription. The ground, every-
where in the neighbourhood, is im-
pregnated with salt, and the waten of
thp Aji Su are salt. Fevers are com-
mon, and the town is unhealthy.
The orchards are celebrated for their
apples. Gangra, the capital of the
Kingdom of Deiotarus, son of Castor,
was token into the Roman Province
of Galatia in b.c. 5. It was at a later
iwriod the Metropolitan Bee of Papli-
jienod th
logon ia.
[From Changra there is a road by
Iskelib to Chorum (27 hrsA This
forms part of the Roman road Ancyra-
Uangra - Andrapa • Amasia. After
leaving the valley tlie road crosses
tlie plateau to the celebrated salt
mines (2$ hrs.). The salt is very pure,
and is found in clay beds in the
gypsum. The annual output is from
180 to 160 tons, and this might be
largely increased, for the mines are
apparently inexhaustible. The road
continues over the plateau, sometimes
between hills of gypsum, and passes
Bsyli-bayh (J hr.), Ovajik (1) hrs ),
Kuru-chai (51 hrs.), and Chat Keui
(6 hrs.) to Iskelib (8 hrs.), probably
Andrapa-Neoclaudiopolis, ait 2400 ft
The castle is picturesquely situated on
the summit of a conical hill of white
limestone in the oentre of voloanio
rooks. The houses are built up the
side of the naked rock, and the valley
below is filled with gardens and vine-
yards. There are some rook-hewn,
tombs with sculpture, and several
inscriptions, one being a milestone
erected by Fuaponius Banns, legate
>f Galatia in a.d. 08 . The Kixil
Irmak is forded 1} hrs. from Iskelib,
and the road then runs over low
scrub-covered hills for 6) hrs. to
Chorum (8 hrs., Rte. 10).]
There are two roads from Changra
to Angora. The first runs over the
wooded Sari Daah (8600 ft.) to Mert
and Oeunek (8 hrs.); traverses the
valleys of the Aina Chai and Khdn
Deresi ; and crosses the watershed
between the Kixil Irmak and the
Sakarfa, to Omarjik (6 hrs.), at the N.
end of the Chibnk Ova — the great
S lain which witnessed, a.d. 1402, the
efeat and capture of Bayesid I. by
Timfir. It then follows the left bank
of the Chibuk Su to Chtbuk-abad
(2 hrs.), and continues down the valley
to Angora (7 hrs.).
The second and more frequented
road runs over ground, intersected by
many watercourses fulling to the
Kixil Irmak, to Kalqjik (12 hrs.), a
small town remarkably situated at
tlio base of an isolated and nearly
conical hill of red troohyte, which is
crownod with the ruins or a fine castle.
The well-watered valley is filled with
S rdena and orchards. The walls of
e castle are bpilt of old material, on
which are fragmentary inscriptions.
In the Armenian oemetery are also
inscriptions: Kalejik, probably Ac «-
torisiacum a station on the Roman
road, was sacked by the Egyptians
(1882) when Ibrahim Pasha advanced
to Angora. Two miles E. of Kalejik
the road to Bungurlu crosses the Kuil
Irmak by a wooden bridge. The road
to Angora (11 hrs.) runs S.E., and
must pass, some 10 m. from that town,
the fountain of Matrica, mentioned in
the legend of 8. Culliuicus.
In proceeding from Kalejik to
Angora a detour may be made by
Akche-tash, a small village 8 hrs. on*
the road to the N.E., where thero arp
many remains, a bas-relief repre-
senting a soldier, and inscriptions.
Behind the village rises a rocky hill,
which may have formed the acropolis ;
from Akche-tash to Bavii is 6 hrs. and
thenoe to Angora is 6 hrs.
For Angora, see Bta. 8.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route
ROUTE 6.
SOUTHS FROM 8 1 NO PC.
(a.) To Kadamftni by Taih-keunri
(82 hrs.). Tho road runs E.,over tow
wooded hilla near the shore for 4 hrs.,
and then turns up the valley of the
Chobanlar Chat , anct. Evarehut , which
gradually narrows to a gorge. The
track keeps close to the stream, pass-
ing through a thickly wooded moun-
tain district, with many villages;
crosses the watershed; and descends
by a steep zigzag to a small valley
running into that of the Geuk Irmak
near Otman Keui (17J hrs.). Hence by
(Etc. 2) to Tash-kcupri (6) hrs.) and
kastamhni (8 lira.).
(b.) To Sams&n by Boiavad and
Vizir-keupri (54 hrs.). The rood to
Boiavad apparently follows tho routo
from Sinope to Pteria, when the
latter town was the trade centre of
Asia Minor. A carriage - road was
commenced some years ago, but it was
never completed. It runs E. to the
Chobanlar Chat (4 hrs.), then crosses
to the valley of the Kirk-gechid Chat,
and following that stream almost to
its source, between wooded heights,
finally olimbs by a steep zigzag to
Muhammad Bey Oahlu (7 hrs.). . The
scenery here is Alpine in character,
and the whole mountain side to the
shores of the Black Sea is covered
with a dense forest of fir, beech, Ac.,
in whipb are several villages. The
road continues through a more open
country with several yailas, and cross-
ing the summit t>f the coast range
(l{ hrs.), descends to Emirti Keui and
Boiavad (5J hra). Boon after com-
mencing the desoent the trees are left
behind, and, the bfcre hills offer a
striking 4 contrast to the luxuriant
vegetation of the tiorthern slopes.
On approaching BoiaVad the road
runs through fields of oom, millet,
and rice. From Boiavad (p. 7) by
k— B afra. 11
Rte. 2, to Vizir-keupri (14 his.) and
Samsfin (22 hrs., p. 8).
(c.) To Same&n by Bafra (86 hrs.).
Tho road keeps near the coast, partly
through thick forest and beautiful
scenery, to Oheneh (6 hrs.), anot
Caruea, where there are a few capitals
and broken columns. It then passes
through a very beautiful country
wooded with oak, arbutus, myrtle, Ac.,
to the Ah 8u, anct Zagora , and the
rocky gorge of the Kara-onja 8u ; and
thence, partly over rock and shingle,
along the shore to Alaoham (12 hrs.),
where there are the ruins of a Byzan-
tine castle, probably Zalecus . The road
onward runs near the foot of the bills
through many orchards and gardens
to a wooden bridge over the Kizil
Irmak, and 1 m. beyond it, to Bafra
(6 hrs.) a dean village, surrounded by
trees and gardens, which is noted for
the totocoo grown in the viciuity.
From Bafra over the plain, past
Kuvmob, anct. Canopium, and several
salt lagoons, to the ruins of Amisus
and Samrin, is 12 hrs.
ROUTE 6.
I8MID — BOLI — T08IA— MARSIVaJi
AM ASIA.
jfBoU
A \Geredeh (CmUia)
^ Hammamll • .... 5*
Cberkcsh S3
KaraJaVlran . . *3
. Koch-bknar • 6| >
Toflia (Docm) • . * . . •§
114)1 Marat* . . 1|
Otmatfilk • TI
HaJJl Kent . ... 7|
: MarmJran <1
Amasia .. .. . • .
This — the old pod-road to Bagh-
dad — follows Ete. 2 from Ismid
to Geredeh and the Kara Goul
Digitized by ^.ooQle
12
Route 6 . — Tmia — Otmanjik.
(a 6). It then orosses some wooded
hills to Btindir (5 hrs. from Gere-
deh) m the valley of the Baindir So,
whence Hajji Ovasi (p. 6) can be
reached in 9} hrs. by a road across
the hills that occupy a bend of the
rirer. Leafing Baindir, where there
are a few ancient remains, the road
crosses the river to Hammainll (} hr.X
and runs over a steep bare hill (5010
ft.) to the cultivated valley of the
Ulu Su, which it follows to Cherkesh
(5J hrs.X a pretty littlo town with 500
Moslem houses, and a mosque built
by Sultan Murad IV. It now passes
over a high undulating and partially
cultivated couutry, with scattered
villages, of which Xarsjilar is the
largest, to Xaraja Viran (61 lira.), alt.
8920 ft., the seat of a mudir, situated
at the head of a small valley. Here
the direct road to Ohangra, 10 hrs.,
branches off, whilst the post-road
keeps down the valley to the Deverek
8u, and follows that stream between
wooded hills, which open out as they
approach Xooh-hissar (6) hrs.), a
market town, and seat of a mudir. 2
miles below the town, near In-keui,
the Kastam&ni-Ohangra road (Rte. 4)
is crossed, and the route then lies
through the well- cultivated valley
of the Deverek Su to
Tosia, Dooea (6) hrs.), an important
town built on the slopes of the Ulgaz
Dagh in a small valley on the N. of
the Deverek Su. It was at Docea
tliat, on his return from captivity
in 1072, the unfortunate Emperor
Bomanua Diogenes was defeated by
the troops or Michael VIL The
Konak is small, but there are a large
and handsome mosque and a fine
khdn. The women weave strong
clotlis from mohair, and from English
water-twist and Adana cotton. Inter-
mittent fever is prevalent There are
luxuriant gardens below the town,
producing fine grapes, Ac., and the
rice grown in the valley of the Deve-
rek Su is celebrated for its excellent
quality. Roads lead across the moun-
tains to Kastumflni and Ohangra.
The road to Amasia continues
down the left bank of the Deverek
Su for about 18 m., when a track runs
off N.E. by Kargin to Boiavad. It
then crosses to the right bank of the
river by a ford, which is dangerous in
flood, and skirting the hills, passes
near the junction of the Deverek Su
and Kizil Irmak. The scene here is
very fine — a bold range of mountains
rising on the opposite bank, with its
slopes broken by numerous streams
ana dotted with villages. ' Ascending
the left bank of the Kizil Irmak, the
road enters Hajji Hamsa (7) hrs.), g
small village in the Sitas vilkvet,
at which there was formerly a garrison
to protoot travellers from the robbers
who infested the pass. An easy road
continues up the valley for 8 m., when
the cliffs close in ; here the old truck
was carried along the face of the rock,
but a now and better road has been
made at a lower level. Another pass,
through truohyte rocks that assume
fantastic forms, louds to tho plaiu of
Osinanjik, and the rood then crosses
the Kizil Irmak by a fine stone bridge,
said to have been built by Bayczid I.,
to
Osmaqjik (7J hrs.). The town is
built at the foot of a volcanic rock
500 ft high, which rises abruptly from
the plain, and is crowned by a ruined
castlo that commands tho bridge.
There are many chambers cut in the
rock. In the town is the tomb of
Koyun Baba, a Moslem saiut. [Thorn
is a road hciioo over the Taysltan
Dagh to Vizir-keupri (14} lira).
Another road runs over the Ifirk-
detim D. to Chorum (15 hrs.), passing,
the hot springs of Uammam Qe iui,
and a large tomb hewn out of the
rock, like those at Amasia.] Tho
Amasia road crosses a fertile and well-
cultivated plain, aud then runs over
a pleasant hill country to Hajji Xeui
(7| hrs.) on the edge of the Marsivan
plain. There are 1100 houses in tho
village, of which 800 are occupied
bv Armenians. At the silver-mines,
Oumuth Muden* amongst the hills,
2 m. to the N., the miners are Greeks.
The mines are said to be rich, but
as, owing to peculation, they did not
Digitized by L^ooQle
Ihmfc 1 .—Marsivan.
Is
p ay, they have been aliandoned. The 5 hrs., rubs over the high ground
read now skirt s the foot of the Tar- between Marsivan and the Yeshil
shan Dagh to Irmak.
Mariivah or XenUdd (Qk. Merti-
phom), perhaps ahot Fhaeemon (4|
Wl a large town oharmingly situ*
a tea, on a slight elevation, in the
midst of vineyards and gardens. At
the back of the town rises the wooded
Tavshan Dagh, protecting it from the
cold N. winds ; to the S. stretches a
rich plain with several villages* whilst
1 6 the E., some 20 m. distant, is the
fine range of Ah Dagh, which retains
its snow-cap for 8 months of the year.
In the centre of the town is a lofty
clock tower ; the churches have bells ;
the streets are fairly paved ; the water
supply is good; there is a comfort-
able hhdn ; the batdn are full of
European goods ; and there id a
general air of prosperity about the
houses and the people. Two of the
mosques were once churches, and on
the walls of the E$ki JainC in the
baz&r may still be seen one or ty
crosses. _
Marslvan Aw the great fcefctre Of
American educational and missionary
enterprise in the 8ivss vilayet. At
Anatolia College an excellent educa-
tion is given in Turkish, Greek,
Armenian, English, mathematics,
history, soienCe, Ac. The students
pay for their own board either in
money or in laboor ; and the institu-
tion, excepting teachers' salaries, and
cost .of building, is nearly self-sup-
porting. There are also a Theolo •
rfieal Seminary for native Protestants,
and a Qirtf Boarding School, whioh
is well filled and doing good work.
On the 1st of Feb., 1898, a fine, un-
finished building, designed for the
Girls' Boarding Sohool, tras burned
down by Incendiaries. The Jesuits
have established a sohool in the town,
and the Gregorian Armenians have a
sohool of their own. From Marsivan
the aroba-road crosses the plain to
the g o rge of thd Tertdkan or Sutacham
8 h , and then follows the road from
Bamsfin (Rte. 141 to Amaeia (6 hrs.).
A shorten route for pack-animals,
ROUTE 7.
I8MID— ’ TOftBALI—
NALLI'KHAN — ANQORA.
lift*.
Gclveb (TOUaewm) Dj Rail : 3
Tarakll \l)abU ») . . . 6
Tor ball (Ctnon GaUicanon ) . 6|
Modurlu (Jtbdren* ?) ; . . S*
Nalll-khAn (JuliopAit ?) . '.8
Bej-baxir (Pttobrog*): . * 11
A jash . * . . . 7
Angora (Ancjppa). . t
ie Turkish posUroad from
iftantinople to Angora and Kais-
ariyeh — is in some respects the most
interesting of all the later roads of
Asia Minor. It was not one of the
neat through routes of the Byxonttnc
Empire, but it was the natural land
route for pilgrims from Europe to the
Holy Land. It was carefully main-
tained, and for many centuries the
stations and halting-plooes continued
to be the same as they were in the
time of Constantine ; it is mentioned
in the Peutingor Table, and described
in the Antonine and Jerusalem
Itineraries ; and until the opening of
the Railway to Angora it was one of
the most important trade-routes in the
oountry. The road traverses a moun-
tainous country, partially clothed with
forest, and passes many small towns
and villages, prettily situated amidst
scenery that is almost Alpine in
character. The houses with their
liigh-pitohed booth, offer a striking
contrast to the flat-roofed dwellings
on the arid plains of Cappadocia.
The poet-road runs from Ismid to
Sahara (7 hrs.) and Geiveh, ToUaewm
(9 hrs.), whioh can also be reached by
roil (sec Handbook to Constantinople).
Digitized by L^ooQle
14 Boute 7 . — Tarakli — Bey-bazar.
At Geiveh the road tome B. and a Sr
oenda sharply through a picturesque
gorge to a guard-house (8020 ft),
whenoe there la a sharp deaoent to
Tarakli (5 hrs.), alt. 1550 ft, a
pretty village, aurroimdod by fruit-
trees and gardens, on the rt. bank of
the Qtunuk Su; near it must have
been DaMU, though the Itineraries
plaoe this station further east. After
naeonding the well-wooded valley for
about 4 lira, and passing several vil-
lages, the road loaves the river and,
winding round tho rocky sides of a
spur, descends to it again at
Torbali, or Oeunttk (51 hrs.), alt.
2640 ft, Oenon Oallicanon. Tho
village is romantically situated in a
rooky ravine, and the houses are
neat and well built The villagers
aro Moslems, but there are several
Christian villages in the neighbour-
hood. Tho direct road to Angora
here turns to the right and posses
over a rou^h mountain country, portly
clothed with a magnificent forest of
pino and fir, to Kactapck (64 lira.),
whenoe there is a steady descent
down the valley of the Kadapek Su ,
anct Soopai , to a khin (4 lira.) on the
post-roaa. The post-rood, which fol-
lows the line of the old Roman
road (?), runs up the valley of the
Geunfik Su ana, crossing an easy
pass, descends through a prettily
wooded district to
Xadurlu or Xudurnu (8} hrs.), a
picturesque little town in the forest
tliat would form an excellent centre
for the ramblos of sportsman, natu-
ralist, or artist. It is perhaps tho
ancient Modrene , and also Dadadana,
the frontier town of Galatia, at which
the Emperor Jovian died in a.d. 864.
At this point the road to Bolt, Olau-
diopolis (p. 5), turns N., whilst that
to Angora , Ancyra, runs 8. and
ascends for 1| hra. through pine woods
to the summit of a ridge, alt 4500 ft,
— the Tram monU (ft of the Jeru-
salem Itinerary. It then descends a
narrow valley for 3} hra. to a derbend
and irkdn, possibly “ Miliaxi ,” where
it is joined by the direet road from
Torbali. Thenoe it follows the valley
of the Scopes to
Valli-kh&n (8 hrsA alt 1504 ft. a
village of about 500 houses, of which
200 are Armenian. About 8} m. to
the 8, on the road to Bmret Sultan ,
near the Sakarta, are some ruins
whioh are supposed by M. Lejean to
mark the site of Gordon Come , after-
wards rebuilt as JuliopoUe, and later,
when it became of greater import-
ance, named BatCUon, after Basil I.
(a.d. 867-86). The identification of
this site, if correct indicates that the
u Pilgrim's Road ” did not follow the
modern post-rood by Mudurlu, but
took a more southerly route not
touching Nalli-klutn. The whole
district, however, requires examina-
tion. After a slight ascent the road
runs over fairly level ground, between
low ranges of hills, to the Ala-dagk
Su, anct. SiberU (5 hrs.), which is
orossod by a wooden bridgo carried on
piors of old masonry that probably
mark tho position of Justinian’s
bridgo. On the l bank is Cluitr-Uiun,
possibly on tho site of Sykca, tho
birthplace of Theodoras Sykeota.
The road continues over level ground,
passing midway the unidentified site
of Lagania-AnadaeiopoHe, to
Bey-bas&r (6 hrs.), alb 1998 ft,
anct. Petobroge or Petobriga. This
purely Moslem town oi well-built
houses stands on threo hills at tho
mouth of a remarkable gorge whioh
is filled with vineyards and gardens.
It is a favourite haltiug- place, and
noted for the number and skill of its
shoeing smiths. The water brought
from a distance of 8 m. by an aque-
duct Is celebratod for its purity and
goodness ; the melons are highly
prized ; the pears are the well-known
u Angora pear ” of the Constantinople
market ; the rioe is good ; and large
quantities of the sweetmeat jevuU
tujuk , u nut sausage,” are made for
export to the capital. Thero are
some excavations in the soft rock,
but no inscriptions. [From Bey-bazAr
to Geredeh over the Ala Dagh (6100
Digitized by ^.ooQle
15
Route 8. — Sugut.
ft) 1 b 201 hrs. ; and to Boli is 16 hn.]
The road onward passes between low
hills, deeply seamed with ravines, to
the Qeuksis Su , which is crowed by a
wooden bridge carried on 9 piers ; it
then follows the valley and, after a
long steady asoent, reaches
Avath (7 hra.), ait. 2800 ft, a
Moslem village prettily situated at
the junction of two ravines. It is one
of the centres of the molmir trade,
and tho merchants have good houses.
Many of the villagers in the vicinitv
retain a souvenir of the Gauls in their
light hair and round heads. The
rood now crosses the Ayaeh Bel (8800
ft) td a bridge over the Char 8u;
here the Murdad plain commences,
and tho rivor rushes into a gorge in
whioh is tho large Armenian villngo
of Istanos (3 hrs.). The houses rise
up the hillside in terraces, and near
the summit are sorao interesting rock-
hewn chambers, and above them re-
mains of an enoeinte of large stones,
possibly indicating the site of one of
the oppida of the Gauls. A con-
siderable proportion of tho Armenians
liavo fair complexions and hair, per-
haps due to a large admixture of
Gallic blood. From this point the
traveller crosses the plain to Angora
(0 hra.), which for many miles is a
striking feature In the landscape.
For Angora, see Rte. 9.
ROUTE 8.
BRU8A — YENI-8H8HR — BILKJIK—
8UOUT — E8KI-8HEHR.
ims.
Yanl-shritr • . . . 12
Blkjlfc . . ... S
Sunt (Gordomrba ?) . .St
, KakUbehr (Dorylaetim) . . 1
This route is interesting as that
by which the Osmanlis attacked the
Byzantines. As far as Yeni-ihehr
(12 hrs.) it has been described in the
Handbook to Constantinople ; thenoe it
runs down the valley or the Oeuk 8u
to Keupri-hissar (2 hrs.), the site of the
important fortrew which was Osman's
first conquest (a.d. 1299) from the
Byzantines. Here the river is crossed
by a bridge, and the road then runs
over a range of hills, alt 2200 ft, to
Bilqjik (4 hra.), whioh has a station on
the Anatolian Rly. Leaving tho town
the road dcsconds to the valloy, and,
after crossing the Kara 8u to the N.
of the station, runs over bare hills to
Yeni K. and
Sugut (6) hrs.), alt 8000 ft, a small
town on the Byzantine military road
from Nicaoa to Dory locum. It is
mentioned under its present namo by
Anna Comnena, but is perhaps tho
anct Gordoterba. Sugut was the first
town granted by Ala-ed-dtn to et-
Toghrul, and it became famous as the
birthplace of the latter's son Osman, —
the founder of the Osman li dynasty.
There are a khltn, baths, and a very
old mosque. On a hill noar tho town
is tho tomb of el-Toghrul , which,
though not so much visited as formerly,
is still an object of the deepest vene-
ration to every Osmanli. The tomb is
built in the usual form, and is situ-
ated in the midst of cypresses and
evergreen oaks. The Moslems of
Sugut assert that Osman was also
buried in his native town, and not at
Brfisa. [The road from Bugut to
Nicaea runs N.E. over the nlateau to
Vesir-kh&n (6f hrs., Ry. Bt.) in the
valley of the Kara Su; down the
volley to Lefkeh (8| hra., Ry. St.) on
the Bakarla ; crosses the Geuk Su by
a stone bridge, and passes over the
hills to Ienik (6 hra), see Handbook to
Constantinople .] The road continues
over low hills and bare plateaux, in-
tersected by small ravines to Kis Kent
(4 hra.) at the edge of the plain ; and
after crowing tho CJpri and ruraak
rivers by stone bridges reaches XsU-
shehr (8 hra., Ry. 8t>
[From Eski-shehr there is an easy
oarriage-road, over level plain and
Digitized by L^ooQle
16
Route 9.—Atne-getu--Bazarjik.
gently undulating ground at the foot
of the Emir D. to Yorgan Ladik (Lao-
dioea Combos ta), and Konia (Iconium,
p. 183). The road was much used by
Arabs and Seljfiks iu their attacks on
the Byzantine Empire, and on it was
Amorium (now Attar Kalch, about
} hr. from Hamza Hajii ) — the great
fortress which guarded tho road to
Bithynia. The place was besieged
by Moelemah (717), by the general of
Har&n er-Rasmd (7821 and it was
taken and destroyed by Mutassem
(888) ; it was the birthplace of
Michael II. (820-29). There are
remains of the walls, acropolis, gymna-
sium, churches, Ac. ; ana in a valley
E. of the acropolis arc rock-hewn
tombs]
ROUTE 9.
BRU8A- E8KI-8HEHR-8IVRI-HI88AR
— ANQORA.
• lies.
Alne-goul (Aitgclocomc) . . 9
lfcuuujlk 8
, K«kl-«hf hr ( DoryUuum) . ’ . 13*
KaiiuAfl ( Tricorn ia- Troon ada ) . 14
.Sivrl-blaoar ( JutiinianopoU r-
Valia) 6
llala-hltsar (/Vmiiwi) 3
Vnrrae (Oordinvi-Snd<*zia*) . 8
Point 11 ft
Jialuk-koyuitji . ... 01
Angora (Anryra) ... 6*
[Travellers from Constantinople can
go by train to Kski-shehr, liiro horses
there, and by sending tbom ou to
Alpi Keui station save a long tedious
ride over the plain.]
The road runs E. up the fertile
valley for about 9 in. ; it then crosses
the l)eli Chai by a ford, and shortly
afterwards, leaving Keitel and the
Yeni-shehr road to the L, it olimbs a
well-wooded spur, whence there are
fine views of Mount Olympus and
the plain of Brfisa. Beyond the spur is
Ak-su, “ white water ”(5 lira), a small
Turkish village, prettily situated in a
picturesque glen, through which rush
the waters of a stream of the same
namo. Hence thoro is a gradual de-
scont through a wooded district to
Aine-geul, “ Mirror lake ” (4 hrs.)
anct. Anyelocome, situated on a rich
but feverish plain, watered by streams
that unite and run off through a gorge
in the hills to Yeni-shehr and the
Sakoria. The name, apparently de-
rived from Angela, is said by some
authorities to lie lne , “ pin," or inek y
“ cow ” — lake. Tho town is surrounded
by trees, and has several moaques. of
which one is of the time of Murad I.
(1860-89). Tho road now traverses
the well-cultivated plain, and, crossing
tho river by a wooden bridge, runs past
SupurlU and Yenije , to Kurshunlu
(3 hrs.), a large village with a fine
mosque. It then asoends through
forest country to a Derbend (guard-
house), from which thorn is u good
view of Olympus, and, after a sharp
descent, leaves the lorest, and, passing
tho ruins of a Roman building, arrives
at
Basaxjik (5 hrs.), a small Turkish
village. Five miles beyond the village
there is an abrupt descent to tho valley
of the Kara Su, through which the
lam id -Angora Railway runs; and a
little to the L is the Kara Keui
Station. 3 m. higher up the valley tho
road to Kutaya (Rte. 23) continues S.,
whilst that to Eski-shehr crosses tho
river by a bridge and runs E. to Bos-
yuk (8§ lire.), where there is a Railway
station. The road now runs near the
railway to CJmknr-hissar (82 hrs.), and
Eski-thehr (4{ hrs.), auct Dorylaeum
(see Handbook to Constantinople).
From Eski-shehr the road follows
the right bauk of the P.ursak Su , and.
Tembtks , ovor a level plaiu, passing
Kara-euyuk, anot Midaeum , to Alpi
Keui (8 hrs.) Railway station , and
continues down the valley to Uyuz-
hammam : it then turns S., and, pass-
ing the Kizilbash village of Koshmel ,
Digitized by
Google
Digitized by
Digitized by
Houle v. — at vrtrhma*.
and Bdljik-kbMf crosses .alow ridge
16
Wilmas (6 hr*.), Tricorma- Trocnada*,
the chief centre of the tribe of Troc-
nades. The Tillage is small and sur-
rounded by tree* and garden* ; in the
cemetery there are several inscription*,
and stones taken from a Byzantine
chnrch ; and in the wall of the mosque
is a sarcophagus which still bears ,a
cross. The road onward runs over the
plain at the foot of the hills, and.
passing a group of high rqcks and
springs, arrives at
Sivri-hissar (6 hr*.), “ the pointed
castle,” Jtuiinianopolts- Folia, one of
the chain of strong places on the
Byzantine military road. It was re-
founded by Justinian — thd older name
being Palia— and its position soon
made it the ohief city of Galatia 8alu-
taris. ' It became first a bishopric
and afterwards the residence of the
metropolitan bishop, who retained
the title “ bishop of Possinus.” It is
still a centre of roads and commerce
and tho chief town of a kaza. Tho
town is picturesquely situated at tho
foot of a striking ridge of ruggod ?
pointed trap rocks, with two peaks ;
and a little below the highest point
are the extensive remains of a castle.
There is a large Armenian population
and a trade in opium and mohair. Id
front of the town there is an extensive
cemetery, in which are inany f riser tp-
tioni brought from Possinus.
Ftom Sivri-hissar there are roads to
the stations of Sazitar (5 hrs.) and
BeyUk Keupri (8 hrs.) on the Ismld-
Angora Bailway (p. 56> There are
two araJbd roads to Angdra: one
(24 hrs.) .runs by B'eylik Keupri
(8 hrs.)— a bridge 1 m. from the
station — Betas (4 hrs.), and Baluk-
koyunji (6 hrs.); the other (26 hrs.)
Crosses the QtinQsU Dagh, to AslaH
Keui (ruins), and Hammarn, anct.
Musgum, where there are hot springs;
it then runs past Rara-hissar, tod
Kavunlu to Kawnji Keupri (8| hrs.),
PotatU (6 hrs.), Ao. (see below). .
Thd road to Pdssintts runs 8. over
[Turkey.]
undulating ground, and has the, spun
of the Ghnusii Dagh, ML Dindymds ,
on the 1. After 54 m. some saroo-
phagi are passed, ana 8 m. further, on
a small plateau to the rt, are traces of
a roughly-built Wall marking the
position of the acropolis of Pessinus .
Here the ground falls sharply, and on
the level space below is the village of
Bala-hissar (8 hrs.), almost surtpundqd
by the shapeless ruins of the capital of
tho Tolistobogii tribe of Gauls. The
place has been long used as a quarry
by the people of Sivri-hissar, and the
portioo, friezes, columns, Ac., seen by
Hamilton (1886) and Texier, have dis-
appeared. In a valley, to the S.E. of
the village, is the theatre.
Pessinus wad celebrated for the
worship of Oybele, the Magna mater ,
called by the natives Agdistis, to whom
a magnificent temple, built by the
kings of Pergamum, was dedicated.
The temple contained an image of the
goddess, which was removed by the
Romans to Rome in B.a 204, and set
up in tho Temple of Victory on the
Palatine. The exact site of this
temple is nnknown.
From Bala-hissar tho road, follow-
ing the line of the M Royal Road,”
crosses a pass, the MusluJc Boghax (alt
8000 ft), between Giinfisil Dagh and
Boz Dagh, to Horlanta ( inscriptions )
and Yfirme (8 hrs.), where there are
considerable remains of a Byzantine
church. . The facade is well preserved,
and there is a fine crypt ; on the walls
are humorous crosses. There are in-
scription*— one on a fountain near the
mosque. This plaoe is probably the
anct Qordium, through which Alex-
ander the Great passed, and at which
Manlius halted on his march to An-
oyra ; and the later Eudoxias, seat of
a bishopric. On the E. side of Mt
Dindymus, in striking contrast to tho
bare W. side, there are numerous
springs, and villages surrounded by
trees and gardens. Many of the people
of this district show traces of GaUio
descent in their light hair and bluo
eyes.
The road onward runs down past
several villages to Kavutyi Keupri, a
wooden bridge over the 8akaria (2J
ft
Digitized by L^ooQle
IB
Route 9. — Angora.' '
hrsA here a deep narrow river with low
banks; it then rises gradually to Polatli
(5 hr*.), a wretched village with a
Uation on the Angora-Ismia Bailway.
After passing Basri, possibly anot
Vinda (inscriptions'), ana crossing some
andalating ground, the road enters a
broad .valley, Zileli Ova , and near its
head crosses a stream by a bridge
(4 hrs.), which, aooording to an inscrip-
tion , was built a.d. 579 by a bishop
Paul It then runs past the Kara
Kaya , a conspicuous two-peaked ba-
saltic rock, to Baluk-koyium, “ shep-
herd’s town” (2| hrs.) atthe piouth
of a pretty ravine from whioh a small
stream issues. One hour to the 8. on
a high conical hill, AsatU Kayo* are
the ruins of a remarkable hill-fort)
which was possibly one of the strong
places of the Gauls. The road con-
tinuing, over undulating ground and
passing vineyards, orchards, and
gardens, enters
Angora, or Safari, Ancyra (5) hrs.),
alt 3100 ft, tho chief town of the
Angora Vil&yct, and tho prcsont ter-
minus of tho Anutoliun Railway.
Tho town stauds on the slopes of a
rocky hill which rises to a height of
about 500 ft above the plain, and is
crowned by the picturesque ruins of
the citadel. A stream, the Enquri
8u, runs past the N. face of the hill,
which is precipitous ; to the W. is a
plain about 18 m. long and in places
8 in. wide; and to the 8. and 8.E.
the slopes of the Elma Dagk, * apple
mountain,” are partly covered with
orchards and vineyards. The upper
town is surrounded by Turkish walls,
which are largely constructed with
fragments of ancient monuments, and
contain many inscriptions, and much
Interesting archaeological material
The houses, of sun-dried brioks, are
built iu irregular terraces from the
plain to the top of the hill. They
Live tiled roofs and are generally two
storied. The railway station is on
the plain about | m. W. of tho town.
Ancyra was originally a Phrygian
city, and afterwords the chief town of
the Teotosages, who were defeated by
Manlius, a.c. 189, in a battle fought
in the neighbourhood. When Galati*
was made a Roman provinoe, b.o. 25,
Ancyra received the name Sebaste,
and under Nero it was dignified with
the title Metropolis. The emblem of
the town was an anchor, iyicvpa, and
this appears on most of its coins. The
town was, besieged and taken by the
Persians, tinder Chosroes; by the
Arabs under Sophian, and again under
Harfin er-Rashfd ; by the Seljftks ; by
the Crusaders who held it for 18
yean; by the Osmanli Turks under
Murad L; by Timfir (1402), and by
the Egyptians under Ibrahim Pasha
(1832).
The numerous inscriptions that
have been found at Angora mention
a hippodrome, baths, aoueduots, and
several temples; and. Judging from
their fragments, these buildings must
have been very fine. The most im-
portant monument left is the Temple
of Rome and Augustus, of which a
large portion remains. Some of the
deoorative details are very beautiful,
but tho most interesting feature is flio
inscription, in Latiu uud Crook, re-
cording the notions of Augustus
(Monumcntum Ancyranum). The La-
tin text is on the inside of the antac,
and the Greek translation oa the outer
wall of the oella. There is another
interesting inscription in Greek on the
front of one of tne antac, whioh con-
tains a list of numerous kings and
tetrarchs of Galatia, and other neigh-
bouring kingdoms, whose names havo
Gallic and even Gothio forma The
inscriptions have several times been
partially copied, and plaster oasts
were made of them by Herr Humann,
in 1882, for the German Government.
Recent excavations have brought to
light a row of marblo columns con-
nected with the temple. The temple
was at one time used as a church,
of which thero are several remains ;
end, in the reign of Buleiman L,
the Mosque of Uajji lktiram was
erected against its 8. face by the
celebrated architect Sinan. Hujji
Bairam, the founder of the Beiraui
dervishes, who died in 1220, belooged
to one of the most illustrious families
of Galatia, and his descendants, who
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 10. — ^Angora. ’’ 19
still reside st Augurs, tie much
respected.
A column not far from the temple is
said to hare been erected in honour of
the Emperor Julian. In the citadel,
Ah Kaleh, are two lions, oouchant ,
in marble, some ancient vaults, and
a Byzantine church, supposed to bare
been dedicated to B. George. Its
walls contain some inscriptions, but
the larger number are in the middle
wall of the three that still exist Out-
side the walls, on the plain, are traces
of the baths and the foundations of a
Byzantine church, perhaps marking
the spot, in Campo Amomo, where
8. Plato suffered martyrdom. The old
Armenian Monastery , possibly of By-
zantine origin, near tne bridge over
tho Chibuk Su, in the cemetery of
which Europeans are buried, d o s o rr c s
4 visit
Angora, from its position, must
always have been 4 place of great
commercial importance, and it has
still a large trade in mohair, wax,
yellow berries, Ac. Tho manure cturo
of chaUis — a lustrous cloth made from
mohair, and used for the cloaks and
dresses of women ; and of fio/, a thicker
variety, worn solely by men, has
almost ceasod. These fabrics, which
are dredsed and dydd iu a special way,
are, however, still made at Istanos.
The plaoe is oelebrated for its honey
and its fruit. The apples and pears,
especially the winter varieties, are
noteworthy. They aro known as
“English, having been introduced
by early English merchants. Angora
cats of pure breed are difficult to
obtain.
Angora has long been resorted to
by Europeans. Agents of the English
Levant Company lived in the town
from 1639 to 1768 ; and in the cemetery
of the Armenian Monastery, N. of
the city, are inscriptions, on ancient
sarcophagi, to the memory of English,
Dutch, and French traders who were
buried there in the 17th and 18th
oents.
Amongst the inhabitants are 8000-
9000 Roman Catholic Armenians,
whose wealth, intelligence, and rela-
tions with Europe have greatly added
to the prosperity of the town. There
are also a small but Wealthy Greek
oommunity, and about 150 families of
Gregorian and Protestant Armenians.
In summer the town is said to be
unhealthy, and the wealthy inhabi-
tants move out to their country houses,
carrying with them their hives of
bees ana household furniture.
There Is a British Consul.
[At CHaour Kales!, about 12 hrs. S.W.
from Angora, and not far from the hot-
spri ngs at the source of the Ham mam
Su, where the kaimakam of the Hai-
mane Kara resides, are rock-sculptures
representing two warriors which were
discovered by M. G. Perrot* These
monuments have a marked similarity to
the psendo - Sesoetrii figures near Hif
(p. 89), and the sculptures of Pterin
. HOUTE 10.
ANGORA— BOQHAZ KEUI — EUYUK—
ALAJi^— OHORUM — MAR8IVAN —
8AM8UN*
HRS.
Awi Yuxgst .... St
Yakshi-knin .... 6
Sungurlu 16$
Bogans Keut ( Pterla ) 6
Eayuk 4
Alaja H
Chorum (Buchaita) ... St
Manivan , IS
SemsAn SI
The road, J hr. after leaving Angora,
crosses the Enguri Su by an ancient
bridge, and then turns up the narrow
valley of that river through a suc-
cession of gardens, vineyards, and
orchards, that belong to villages
hidden from view. At an ancient rile
(3J hrs.) are some broken oolumns,
one with a defaoed inscription, and a
much worn lion oouchant, similar to
those at Angora. Continuing up the
valley, and passing several villages,
and a ruined khfin, the water-parting
o 2
Digitized by
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20
Saute 10.-r-4«tt X uzgat — Boghaz Kent.
between the Sakatfa nud the Kizil
Irmak, alt. 4100 ft., is crossed about
1 lir. before reaching
Assi Yusgat,“Rebel Y uzgat ** (5 hrs.),
a large dirty Tillage built in a narrow
ruvine. 'lliere are opine undent tculp-
turee , one representing a lion ooutfiant,
and an altar ornamented with vine*
and grapes. The country beyond **
steep and broken, the water forcing
its way £. to the Kizil Irinak through
a deep gorge. Keeping above this
the road descends to Kilijlar (21 lira.)
in a pretty valley with orchards and
gardens, it then crosses a spur, and
desoends sharply to the ferry over the
Kizil Irmak," lied River,** anct Xfoiys,
alt 2350 ft The river is here some
100 yds. wide, running over a sandy
bottom in a valley from } to 2 m.
wide. In summer and autumn it is
fordable, but in winter and spring the
pusaago is mudo in a rude forry-boat
which carries G or 7 horses. After
crossing the river the rt bank is
followed for about 1 iu. to
Yakihi-khin (2 j hrs.), a village of
Mjme GO houses, chiefly occupied by
Tatars. Continuing up the rt. bank
lor a short distance, the road turns
K., and crossing some undulating
ground, commences the ascent of u
broad o|hmi valley. Here the post-
road to Dcnok-madoni, Kir-shchr, and
Kaisariyeh turns ofT rt., whilst tho
Y uzgat road (p. 32) follows the line
of telegraph through Bev-ovasi ; and
that to Sungurlu, passing between
the villages of liey-ovasi and Bollsbir,
crosses a high ridge qnd 'runs down to
Beutjuk Yoghlu , and Xara-belrir (8|
hrs.)— a Moslem village built above
the rich pluin, famous for Its heavy
crops of grain, through which tho
Delijo Irmak, 14 Mud River,** finds its
way. The road descends to the river
uuder a remarkable rock, Choban
Kuvu , and cross! ug by a wooden
bridge, runs over undulating ground
to Aylmja Keui (8} hrs.), near which
there is a s aline, and
Bulgaria (41 hrs.), a large but dirty
towu, with no trace of ancient re-
mains. It is situated in a valley
renowned for its fertility, aud the
stream above and below the town is
bordered by rich gardens and nhady
orchards. At, Ohayan Keui, about >4
hrs. to the N., there are minee of rook
salt Leaving Bungurlu the . rood
runs up the valley to Kerankeck, whpre
tho roads to Alaja and Y uzgat separate.
Following the latter to Salman Keui,
a broad open valley is eutcred and
ascended to Yukbax and the small
village of
Boghaz Keui, Pteria (5 hrs.), a
small village built on both banks of
the Yazir Dered. It Is the residence
of a wealthy Bey who claims descent
from Ala-ea-devle, tho Beljfik Sultan
of Marash and Albistan, who was
conquered by Selim I., dre. 1514.
The Bey is guardian of the tekke at
Qemerok, where Shahrflf, Ala-ed-
devlo's son, is buried; and adminis-
trator of large vaku/t for the repair
of bridges, mosques, tekkes, Ac,
The ruin* at Boghaz Koui arc
those of the most extensive city of A.
Minor in early times ; and they must
have belonged to the metropolis of a
peat empire. It is the only city which
is marked by its remains u as a ruling
city of the Oriental type, unaftbeted
by, and earlier than, Greek in-
fluence.** The remains of a palaoe
(or perhaps temple) are unique, in
A, Minor, for size and stylo, and tho
rock-sculpturcs in tho vicinity show
it to have been an important religious
centre. It communicated, on the one
. hand, with the east through the Oili-
cian Gates, and on the other with
Ephesus by a road which crossed the
Halys by a bridge ; and there was a
road from it to Sinope, over which tho
products of Cappadocia were carried.
The ruins have been very generally
identified with Pteria. a place men-
tioned by Herodotus (i. 7G) as having
been taken by Croesus after be baa
declured war against the Modus and
crossed the Halys. After the oapturo
of the town Croesus fought an inde-
cUivo battle near U with Cyrus, and
then retired to Sard!#.
The anoieut city stood on broken
Digitized by ^.ooole
Digitized by
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Ruins
of
r E RIA
PB. Vsr D r Karl H nmA im
jfe- _ i
: ck-Ju***"* ZAm
Digitized by L^ooQle
21
Routt 10 .-^-Rmhdz Kent.
ground, partly endoeod by twd deep
and almost inaooeeaible rocky ravines,
the Yazir Jhreti and the Beuyilk-
hayanin • Derert, which unite below
the village, at a spot called Gamhudi
where the hills give place to a wide
X n yaller running N.N.W. The
faces the N.*, and is intersected
by a ravine,' the Kitlar-haya Deresi,
which rises in its centre, and joins'
the Tazir Deresi in the village. From
the highest point, Yer Kapunun Kechi ,
there is a slight fall to three pio-
tnresque limestone rooks, upon which
are fragments of ancient masonry.
Beyond the rooks there is a steep,
abrupt s lope, covered with brushwood
and <Ubri *, and at its foot, on less
brokon ground, are numerous ruins,
including those of a palace or temple.
From Yer Kapunun Kechi to the N.
end of the town is about 1} m., and
the difference in altitude is about
870 ft.
The ground is so broken and no
covered with brushwood that it is
difficult, without exoavation, to deter-
mine the Arrangement of tho town.
It was apparently surroundod by a
Strong wall, and divided by internal
walls into three Quarters : tho Acro-
polis, with its masonry redouble and
nairoW gateways on the 8. ; the lower
town , or N.E. Quarter, in which were
the palaoe and the more important
buildings ; and the W. Quarter, whioh
included the rocks Kartal Kayo,
Ta'alik K., and Kislar K. Whether
the Quarters were built at the same
time, or not, is uncertain, but there
are indications that the W. Quarter
may have been built last
On the 8., the city wall stood above
a natural depression in the ground,
whioh breaks away sharply to the
ravines on either side. It wafc 14 ft.
thick, and was protected by projecting
flanking towers, at intervals or 104 ft
The wall consisted of a core of small
loose stones, 6 ft thick, faoed bn
either side by a 4 ft. wall, carefully
built with, selected stones. No mortar
was used in this or in any other
masonry of the ancient city. The
gaU$ in the wall are very narrow,
only 2 ft 11 in. wide; and at one
point there is a jpoefem communicating
with a passage that led, beneath the
wall, to the town. The postern is
formed by three roughly dressed
stones, and the passage Is built with
unhewn stones, in the form of a
triangle, or pointed arch ; the base of
the triangle is 5 ft 5 in., and its
height; to the keystone, 6 ft. 2} in.
There are similar passages beneath
the wall on tho rt bank of the Kizlar«
kaya Deresi, and they are probably
amongst the earliest instances of the
use of the pointed arch. Above the
ravines the walls were of slighter
construction, but great care was taken
to All up any orevioes in the rock that
might have been of use to adventurous
climbers. On the N. side, where the
ground is level, a large mound from
25 to 80 ft. high marks the line of the
old wall, or perhaps of a rampart on
which it stood.
In the acropolis there appear to
have been several stone redoubts, of
which the most important were
JirnyUh Kaleh , on a projecting spur,
where there are two rock-hewn cis-
terns; Bari K, whioh contains the
finest specimens of masonry, and
Yenije X., which is of rectangular
form. From Beuydk Kaleh a wall
runs to the rt bank of the Kixlar-
kaya Deresi, and here, where the path
from Boghaz Keui to Nefez Keui enters
the acropolis, there was probably a
gate. Outside the gate, on a small
platform to the N., is a hewn stone of
sarcophag us form; and inside, on a
sloping rock to the W. of the path, is
a tablet, Nishan Task, 18 ft. by 6 ft.
8^ in., which onoe contained an in-
scription in “ Hittite ” characters. ,
The inscription was in 9 lines, but only
5 or 6 isolated symbols are left. A
few feet to the left there was a second
inscription, now alto illegible. On
the 1. nank of. the ravine to which it
gives its name is the Kitlar Kaya ,
s maiden's rock," with a level top, to
whioh there was apparently an asoont
by a ramp or steps, In the ravine
below the rock is a fine spring, and
beneath the wall on the opposite bank
there is one of the narrow passages
already mentioned.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
22
Route 10 . — Tasili Kay a.
The palace in the N.E. Quarter stood stones the rows of small ciroular holes
on sloping ground, and to obtain a made by the quarrymen to detaoh the
level surface a platform was constructed blocks from the rook are visible. The
of large stones built in courses so as building was 208 ft. long and 138 ft
to present the appearauce of gigantio 6 in. wide, and it apparently consisted
steps. Of the building itself little is of a large central chamber, 87 ft. by
left ; but at one point there are three 61 ft., with smaller ones round it.
courses, and here the curious manner Neither in this nor in any of the other
in which the stones were bonded buildings at Boghaz Keui is there any
together is well seen. The material traoe of Greek influence,
is a hard basalt or trachyte, brought N.E. of the palaoe, near the river,
from a distanoe, and in several of the is Merakli Kayo, in which a large
booiiaz keui (Yosili Kaya).
niohe has been hewn; and to theS.E.,. thrul recesses or galleries, the larger .
is Anbdrli Toth, where there are rock- about 90 ft. by 15 to 40 ft., the smaller
hewn chambers, now used as granaries, (which is at a slightly higher level)
whence the name. On the rt. bank about 42 ft. by 9 ft. A communicat-
or the river, a little higher up, is ing passage is now blocked by fallen
Keure Kaya , on which there appears boulders. The galleries are of naturul
to have been a redoubt similar to formation; art has only scarped the',
those in the acropolis. inner rock-faces, on wnioh are dis-
posed in panels a series of relief* at a
Tasili Kaya.— Th is famous group height generally of about 1 or 2 ft.
ofj limestone rocks lies about 1| m. from the ground. A plinth has been
E. of the city, and 540 ft. above the left below them in many places. The
valley. It opens out into two hypae- overhang of the rock above has parti-
Digitized by
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28
Route 10 . — Tamil Kay a,
ally protected the sonlptures, hot for eworde ; all in short tonics. The 8
the moet part they nave suffered hindmost hare single symbols above,
severely. (Bee Plan.) (5.) 6 of greater stature and more
elaborate equipment (a) Draped to
Great Gallery. — Two ptooessions ankles in long robe with a sort of
start one on either side of the en- chasuble above ; skull cap on hair
trance, and moot k on the north wall, falling in a bunch on the nape. Bo-
In both tho stature of the figures in- versed Utuui in rt hand ana symbol
oreases from 2} to 6 ft as they proceed, in or near 1. Winged disk above the
Those on the left are the more nu- head, [of. infra, 11, 171 (b) Bearded,
merous and diversified. For purposes in short tunic, cloak whose edge
of description we divide into arbitrary shows, and cap with two horns (?).
groups, and begin in the case of each Wings of Assyrian type spring up-
procession from the entrance of the wards from the shoulders, (e) 2 te-
ll allery. males draped in long robes with ver-
A. Left-hand (45 figures). — (1.) tical pleats, girdled. Both wear
12 beardless figures running with bracelets and round caps rising off
right foot on the ground; the 2 the head. The breasts are prorai-
leaders more spaced than the rest nent. No. 1 has symbol above and a
All wear high conical plain caps, fan (?) in rt hand. No. 2 carries a
tunics to the knee, and slightly up- reaping-hook, (d) Draped in long
turned shoes ; they carry nothing in robe falling in oblique folds, open in
their denohed hands. 8 others, draped front so as to show 1. leg. Edge of
to the ankles in robes with zigzag cloak indicated. Symbol above, (e)
edging, precede the 12. They are Of. 4, but note sceptre and cloak-
much worn, but seem bearded. The edge.
2 leaders are in a distinct panel (6.) 0 at the head of the Pro-
(2.) 18 male figures marching, (a) cession, (a) 2 in ribbed caps and
Glad like tho hindmost in 1. (b) SL short tunics erect on twin-peakod
much worn at bottom, wear ribbed mountains; crescent-shaped sword-
caps, with peak bent forward — not hilts, and edges of cloaks are in-
unlike the M Phrygian ” cap. The dicated. No. 1 has cloak open in
hands are in an attitude of supplioa- front No. 2 has sceptre in rt. and
tion, and single symbols appear above symbol above. (6) Bearded (?) male of
each figure, (e) Male in ribbed cap great stature in tunic with sleeves
with frontal horn (?) ; sceptre in rt and conical ribbed cap. Sword at 1.,
hand, (d) Ditto, without soeptro. («) sceptre in rt., and symbol above or in
Ditto, with something pendent from 1. lie stands on the bent necks of
the elbow, probably intended for the two standing figures in long coats and
thick border of a cloak, (f) Of. c. a Phrygian * caps. Their arms are
(a) Of. e, but note “ Phrygian ” cap. folded, or in attitude of supplioation.
(A) 8 figures. No. 1 has sceptre and Their facial type is peculiar. The
symbol near or in L hand. No. 2 has fore part of a beast, with conical cap,
soeptre, and note M cloak-edge ” as in protrudes before the legs of the prin-
e. No 8, ditto, without, soeptre. cipal figure (Fig. 1).
(0 2 with single symbols above, and B. Right hand (21 or 22 figures). —
curved sword over rt shoulder. Note ( 7 .) 15 draped in long robes, girdled,
edge of cloak. and falling in verticil pleats. Cre-
(8.) 2 horned figures ; the bodies, nellated mitres on their heads ; cloak-
girdled, seem human : legs, tails, and edges indicated ; left feet advanced,
ears are bestiaL The end of long bong hair falling on the book,
hair appears on the back of eaoh. Above certain figures, e.g. Nos. 7, 10,
They stand on a gigantic symbol, like 10, are symbols,
a knotted tie, and hold up a orescent- (8.) 2 (or 8 (?)) similarly equipped,
shaped object, perhaps the moon. • but taller. A group of symbols in or
(4.) 4 marching with curved near rt of hindmost Bock much
Digitized by ^.ooQle
24 Route 10.—
broken in front of foremost, where sym-
bol* would be. A little iu adyanoe
another group of symbols, possibly
pertaining to a third decayed figure,
(9.) 2 similarly equipped, but wear-
ing earrings and standing above a
two-headed eagle, displayed, with
oollar round the neck (Fig. 1).
Of. Euyuk.
(10.) 2 at the head of the Pro-
cession, standing on felide beasts,
themselves supported on two and four
peaked mountains respectively. An
imp with conical cap squats on the
head of the foremost beast (a) In
short-sleeved tunic and ribbed cap;
sword at 1., staff in rt, and double-
Yaiili tfciya.
headed battle-axe in 1. ‘ Near rt hand'
is a group of symbols. . This figure is
undoubtedly male, (b) Much taller
than all behind ; equipped like them
(exoept IQ a), but no oloak-edge to be
seen. The forepart of a boast pro-
trudes before her, as before tho leader
opposite (Fig. 1).
ItolaUd figure* on right-hand wall.
— (11.) Figure 8 ft high, similar in
equipment to 5 a, standing on two
mountains with scaly surface, possibly
intended to be wooded. Bracelet ana
earring indicated. Near or in rt is
an elaborate group of symbols with
small human figure with ** Phrygian ”
cap iu the centre. Possibly this
panel should be connected with the
Right-hand Procession, which it
follows.
(12.) Faint traces of a figure in
conical cap.
(13, 14.) 2 monstrous nudo (?)
figures detected by Porrot on opposite
sides of the mouth of the blocked
pa Mage to the Small Gallery. The
ITbas a dog’s head; the rt a lion’s.
Both have wings, one raised, the
other depressed, and arms raised
above the head in a familiar Assyrian
attitude.
•mall Gallery. — On W. wall at N.
end.
(15 ) 12 figures inarching rapidly
H) single file. Ribbed caps with
frontal horns, girdled tunics to knee,
shoes slightly upturned. Bracelets on
the arms, rings in the ears, and reaping
hooks over rt. shoulders, L hands
clenched The facial type is flat-
nosed and thick-lipped. The whole
panel is well preserved (Fig. 2).
On E. wall, almost opposite.
(16.) Heraldio group. Human head
with conical oup and ring in ear,
springing from 2 demi-lion* hieing
outwards with open jaws. These rest
on rt hind paws of 2 full-length lions,
supported bead downwards on a
oofumn resembling a section of a
sword -blade. The whole over 10 ft.
high.
(17.) Figure between 6 and 6 ft
high, similar to 10 a, but wilhodt axe
Digitized by Tooele
Route 10 . — Taitli Knya .
or staff; 1. arm clasped round neck,
and holding ri wrist of smaller figure
similar to II and 5 o. Near or in rt.
Fio. 2.
a group of symbols, identical with
No. 11, but with erect phallm in
centre (Fig. 3).
Fio. 8.
Two small ni6hes will be observed
in the W. wall and one E.
The Meaning of the Sculptures.—
For many reasons remarks on the
general meaning of the monuments
must bo advanoed and received with
peculiar caution. In the first place,
no detailed examination of theso
much decayed sculptures has been
made on the spot by any one very
familiar with monuments of similar
character elsewhere. Toxior was
guilty of gross errors in his repro-
ductions and notes. M.M. Porrot
and Guillaume did most valuable
work in photographing and de-
scribing, and M.M. Humann and
Pucbstcin in making oasts and noting
special points; but nono of these
MranU had had previous opportu-
nities of examining many “Hittite”
sculptures, and the circumstances
under which their photographs or
oasts were taken preclude their
having the same value as autopsy
of the original reliefs. Until, there-
fore, a special examination has been
made on the spot by a trained ex-
pert, doubt mUst rest on soveral
important points, o.g., the sex of
several of the figures ; the nature of
many objects which they carry; and
tho precise character of the symbols
which accompany them. In the
second place, there is no evidenoe as
to tho general nature of these sculp-
tured Gallories. Were they shrines,
or approaches to cunningly concealed
tombs ? or neither one nor the other,
but simply sheltered rock -faces,
whereon rnngs of the neighbouring
city carved commemorative reliefs?
In the third plaoe, we know very little
indeed either of the cult or tho civilisa-
tion of the people whoso art is repre-
sented here. We are not certain even
what people it was; and ore still
ignorant of tho meaning of the “ Hit-
tite ” symbols, which so often ac-
company the figures at Yatili Kaye i*
and probably indicate their charac-
ter or names. Bo fore tho essentially
distinct character of •• Hittite ** art
had been recognised, and other monu-
ments could be compared with these
“ Processions ” at Yasili Kayo, there
was much futile speculation. “As-
tarte presiding over the apotheosis of
a virtuous monarch ” ; 11 Cimmerians
Digitized by
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26
Boute 10 . — Yaiili Kayo.
and Amasons allying under ilie In this interpretation we hare to
auspices of the gods * ; “ Marriage of deal only with the particular divinity
the daughter ot A lyattef, the Lydian whom we should expect to find in
to Astyages, the Made *' — these were pro- Aryan Cappadocia — the Great
a few of the guesses. Perrot insisted. Goddess, known under many names,
however, that the scenes represented Oybele, Anait, Artemis, Atargatis.
were religious, not political, and this Her crenellated crown, and the
view, endorsed by Ramsay, now finds supporting felide make it almost
general acceptance. As to the par- certain that the leading figure on the
ticular scene, however, depicted in rt. is Hereelf. Behind her stands, on
the Great Gallery, no two savants are another felide beast, her Son, known
quite agreed ; perhaps the interpre- to the Greeks as Attis of Phrygia,
tation which is most gonerally known whose incestuous union with his
and approved, sees here a symbolical mother typifies the ruling principle of
meeting of the Great Goddess of Asia, Nature-worship, the self-reproductive
attended by her mystic Son-spouse, Foroe. The double-headed eagle
by her lions and female votaries, appears, as at Euyuk, but wo do not
( right-hand t oall) with tho Great God know wny. The other figures in the
of the South — Sandon or Baal -Tars — cortege must be priestesses, greater
attended by lesser gods, priests, and less, wearing the dress of their
eunuchs, hieroduU , and the like (left- Goddess.
hand t oall). If this be a true inter- It is much less oertain (but we
pretation we have a most interesting may hazard the guess) that the leader
monument oommeinorative of alliance on the left-hand side is a king of the
or fusion of the Syrian and Oappado- neighbouring city, sceptre on shoulder,
oian peoples. This interpretation, sword at side, erect on the necks of
however, rests only ou a brilliant subjects, or perhaps vanquished foes, if
guess, not on comparative evidence, the peculiarity of the facial type of the
and assumes perhaps too elaborate a two supporting figures is to be pressed
motive in such primitive art. Behind may be his sons standing on
If we apply the comparative method, mountains, symbolical of their land,
wo should expect a meeting, not of Following them come perhaps re-
two divinities, but of a divinity and a latives or subordinate priest-dynasts
mortal. On the rock of Ivriz (p. 159) in mystio dresses with mystic emblems,
we Bee a god meeting and conferring The two female figures, which have
benefits on his priest, perhaps a king no mystio adjuncts, may be wives or
of Tyana. At Fraktin (Rte. 97) mor- daughters.. Those who follow roay
tals pour libations before altars, at tho be nobles, soldiers, or priests, headed
other side of which stand or sit divini- by a figure, with the lituus, which
ties ; so again on a relief at Euyuk, occurs elsewhere in circumstanoes
sketched by Ramsay. The prooes- which indicate him to be High Priest
sions at Yasili Eaya may be no more of the Son of tho Goddess, and is in-
than elaborations of a similar idea, tended perhaps to appear a eunuch.
A female Divinity meets a King of The strange group (3) may be a re-
the city, accompanied perhaps by presentation simply of some mystic
members of his family, and divers emblem of Nature - worship, borne
types of his subjects. He devotes aloft like the Ark of the Covenant : a
himself, his people, and his land to file of unarmed, empty-handed figures
Her, perhaps after victorious war. closes the prooession.
She in return holds out the hand of The priestly figure with the Utuus
acceptance. Such a simple idea suits appears in the Small Gallery (17) in
better the usual character of primitive the embrace of a man identical to all
sculptures. The “ Reapers ” march intents with the Son who follows the
ing with their siokles in the Small Great Goddess. Alone, standing on
Gallery go to gather in the fruits of two hills, the Priest follows the God-
the earth under her protection. dess's Procession (II) appropriately
Digitized by L^ooQle
27
Route 10 . — Tasili Kaya—Euyuk.
enough. The heraldic device in the
Small Gallery (16) seems to reproduce
the Son’s head with the Mothers lions.
There remains little doubt that the
cult of the Great Earth-Mother and
her Son supplies the motive of these
Reliefs; and that it was dominant
in the city below them.
The two bestial headed figures (13,
14) may be keeping ward over the
connecting passage, as Perrot sug-
gests; but nothing countenances the
idea that this passage leads from a
Holy Place to a “ Holy of Holies.”
Both Galleries have independent
entrances, and their sculptures are by
no means certainly the work of one
hand at one time.
The meaning of the symbols, which
accompany the figures, is not known.
The most common at Tasili Kaya are
the oval, which has been thought to
be a determinative of divinity; the
human legs, by connecting which with
the oval Perrot formca a “man-
drake ” ; the flower , animal heads ,
Ac. Tho points of contact with other
44 Ilittite ” monumonts are many and
markod. Though not all tho product
of one period, they all seem to repre-
sent one artistic family, homogeneous
and regularly developed over a long
space of time. The latest date of
“ Hittite ” work is, roughly, the 8th
oentury b.o. Theee Yasili Kaya
reliefs roust fall considerably earlier
than that date, if we may judge by
comparative evidence of styla They
are still hampered by arebaio conven-
tions, while at the same time they are
manifestly the product of an Art that
has advanced far towards indepen-
dence. Many traces of Assyrian
influence survive, for instance, in the
character and attitudes of the winged
and bestial-headed figures, the winged
disks, and the supporting animals.
But there are not only particular
features which cannot bo fathered on
any other Art, such e.g. ns the twin-
headed eagle, the peculiar litui, and
“ cloak tordera” but in general
ch a r acter the whole series of sculp-
tures could never be confounded by a
trained eye with either Assyrian or
Egyptian art The great fact which
gives its'Jmportanoe to “Hittite” re-
search is the existence of this wholly
distinct Art The name by which
we are to call it is another matter;
and these Cappadocian reliefs most
be compared with a wider series of
parallels than are known at present
before we can venture to assert
positively who carved them or what
they mean. At the least we must
wait for the decipherment of the
“ Hittite n script
From Boghas Keui the road runs over
well-cultivated undulating ground,
that parts the waters of the Delijo
Irmak from those of the Chekerek
Irmak, to Kvlah, whence there is a
fine view E. over the great Kumbet
plain. Shortly afterwards the araba
road from Sungurlu to Alaja is
crossed, and the route continues to
Xuyuk (4 hrs.), on the top of a
mound, on one side of which ore a
gateway flanked by “ sphinxes,” and
a series of remarkable sculptures.
Tho “ Sphinxes" (Plan, Nos. I, 2>—
These have really more in common
with Assyrian human-headed Bulls.
Two blocks of trachyte or basalt have
been fashioned at the anterior onds
into the semblance of human-hcadod
beasts 7 ft 3 in. high. No. 2 bears
between the legs the mark of its sex.
Across the breast a band of rosette
ornament; on the head a fillet, and
a head-dress like an Egyptian Jdafl,
with curling lappets falling on the
shoulders. On the outer side a pen-
dent ribbon. Rings in the ears.
Traces of superstructure remain on
No. 2. On the inner face of No. 2
is a twin-headed eagle, similar to
that at Yasili Kaya. Above it, the
edge of a robe and a foot (Fig. 4).
Traces of an eagle can be discerned
also opposite on No. 1. Note the
holes loft by the gato-hingra.
The Bas-reliefs. — The Gate is ap-
proached by a Dramas, 13 ft long,
from whose entrance walls return
outwards at right angles. On the
huge blocks which formed the lowest
courses, are a series of reliefs.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
28f Route 'iO.—EuyukV
The Uft 'returning toaU (82 ft: long), rt., but their toes pbint 1. ; heads much
— -(8.) Fore part of a Hull moving rt. deoajed. 1
with an Ark or Altar on his baok; (5.) 3 figures : (a) shine stature as 4 ;
before his ohest a ring and nnder his faces 1. towards his followers, flame
belly a disk. All muoh decayed. dress, except skull cap (?) with frontal
(4.) 2 figures, marching, in short liorn. Long hair on the back and
tunics, confined by sashes with pen- large ring in the ear. In the up-
dent ends. No. 1 plays with rt. hund lifted hands an object with crescent-
on a mandoline (?) held in 1. ; two handle held to‘ the mouth — perhaps a
ribbons depend from the keys. No. 2 musical instrument, but more like a
holds a small animal (?). both face sword, (b) 2 only half as tall. No. 1
has sliort clock al>ovo tunic, but for sloovod mantles, moving rt. lit. hands
the rest is like a. lie stanas at the raised. No. 2 has litnue reversed,
foot of a clumsy ladder, half-way up No. 8 has Utuue in 1.
which is No. 2, mounting. Latter (7.) A figure, similar to 6, leads an
lias no cap (?), but a single pigtail of ibex or goat by the horns. 8 rams fill
hair tails over the crown of his head the field behind, represeutodoneabove
on his book. The sculptor has turned the other instead of in ]>erspoctive
the ladder full to the spectator, and Finer work (Fig. 5).
then, unable to carve No. 2 except (8.) A gap, and then 2 figures
in profile, has been forced to put face rt. tp an altar, reeombllng a table
him on the 1. upright instead of the with broadeuing foot. No. 1 has long
rungs. robe with oblique folds, girdled ; long
(6.) 8 draped in long robes and hair on back, and cap with lappets.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
29
Route • 10.-^8hmiL
Rt. arm raised ; I. folded over the
forearm of rt Cloak-edge indicated
No. 2 draped to feet m robe and
44 chasuble ; ” lituus in rt ; L raised
towards altar. In dress and tjpe
identical with Noe. 5 a and 11 at
YitsiliRayo.
(9.) Forepart of a Bull facing 2,
standing on pedestal with projecting
cornice. Homs, dewlap, generative
organs, and muscles boldly carved.
The Dromo* : left wall. — (10.)
On the lateral face of block 9 are
4 figures, (a) 2, facing, grasp with
rt a single staff fixed on the ground.
Doth dad in shirts to mid-thigh ; feet
nude (?> No. 2 has bristling hair
and large earrings. (6) Small nnde
figure ; feet not reaching to the rock-
plinth : one arm pendent the other
raised to the head. Facing him, a
figure in long robe and *' chasuble In
rt. a staff ; m 1. a sword, grasped just
below crescent-shaped hilt (or do both
hands grasp the staff?).
(11.) Block turned over by Perrot
0 figures march in filert Short
tunics with sashes; clenohed hands
empty : oaps (?) cf. No. 5.
(12.) Block turned over by Wilson
and Ramsay in 1881. Soems to have
stood next to Sphinx on rt. side of
Dromos. Figure, draped to feet, sits
on throne with flower (?) in rt. hand.
Oeneral attitude of hands that usual
with females in Cappadocian art.
Figures, similar to 8, advance, and
leader pours libation from vase on to
seated figure’s foot 2 more figures
behind much decayed.
Right returning wall. — (18.) Cor-
responding to 9, a draped figure on
throne looking rt., cf. 12. In uplifted
hands flower-like objects.
(14.) 8 decayed figures move 1.
with hands uplifted. Strap crosses
under 1. arms ; cloak-edges or rim of
shield (?) indicated.
(15.) 8 similar, very faint
(16.) In the Tank wall a Bull with
couched horns, cf. 9.
(17.) At N.W. angle of the Tank a
fine Lion, crouching over a prostrate
ram. Body in relief on lateral face
of the block j head detatihed boldly
on anterior faoe. Probably once
formed part of an avenue. The* lion
recalls m style the fiunous inscribed
specimen from Marash.
General Remark *. — Here, as at
Yasili Kaya, we have evident repre-
sentations of religious processions.
On the left M a eortige of figures,
headed by the chief priest ana the
chief priestess, approaches an altar as
if to offer homage to the god, repre-
sented as a bull ,Y — an idol elevated on
a pedestal. It is extremely probable
that this Bull is a local presentation
Fio. 4.
of the 8on of the Great Mother, who
appears at Yasili Kaya as a young
god, embracing a counterpart of the
priest who here approaches the altar.
We see next an attendant leading
sacrificial animals ; then more priests
with litui; then the strange ladder-
scene, which we oannot yet explain.
Minstrels follow, and another Bull
bearing the Altar or Ark of the gCd
whose form he wears, and totrhom
he is sacred, doses the Prooeesion.
Turning into the Drama* we find,
beginning on the rt. and finished on 1.,
Digitized by L^ooQle
30
Route 10. — Euyuk.
the Prooession of the Greet Mother, Id Professor Kamsay's words we
seated on her throne, adored by the have here, as at Yasili Kaya, 44 scenes
same priest and priestess (possibly and figures in the ritual of a religion
king and » queen of the country), which can be traced over the greater
followed by attendants. Two mystlo part of Asia Minor, modified by local
groups, which we osnnot explain, circumstances.’* The religion is that
close this Procession. On the right of the Great Earth-Mother and her
returning wall we have probably Son-spouse, personifications of the
remains of another similar cortege self-reproductive forces of Nature,
approaching the Great Mother, seated The priests and priestesses wear the
at the comer opposite the Bull. dress and are almost incarnations of
Fio. 5.
the Deities they serve. At the date single series to different periods ; it is
of those bat-relieft we can only guess, more natural to see in the diversity of
Naive conventionality and dependence style the trace of a plurality of hands
on Assyrian models would seem to more or less skilled. If all the reliefs
mark most of them as earlier work at Euyuk are of one period, it must
than the sculptures at Yasili Kaya, be that of the best, and the best are
yet there is apparently among them not much if at all, behind the finest
some work of more practised hands; works at Yasili Kaya.
the representation of sacrificial animals
(Fig. 5) shows in marked contrast to About 2 m. from Euyuk the road
the ladder-scene : the Lion from the passes the •remarkable isolated rook
Dromos is of a class of art vastly called Kala-hissar, upon which once
superior to the “ Sphinxes.” It is not stood a fort, probably tho acropolis of
reasonable to ascribe sculptures of a a town at its foot. There are rock-
Digitized by
Google
Route 10 . — -Alaja — Marsivan. 81
hewn steps and exoavations, appa-
rently for houses, similar to those on
Hi. Sipylus ; and a few fragments of
inasonry, some ancient, some modem.
At the foot of the rook are the re-
mains of a considerable town, pro-
bably Turkish, but builton the site of
an older settlement, perhaps Kharsia
or Karissa Many of the out stones
and inscriptions at Chorum are said to
have been taken from this plaoe. The
road now crosses a hill, near two
tumuli, to the village of Kalun-kaycL,
and runs through open treeless country
past Kis-karaja, to
Alaja (84 hrs.), alt. 2600 ft., a large
village with a fine modem mosque,
and ah extensive oemetery in which
are ^numerous fragments of a Byzan-
tine Church. The yillage, which Is
the residence of the mudir of Hussein-
abaa nahieh, is situated in the Hussein
Ova, a rich corn-growing plain, and is
the meeting plaoe of several important
roads. About 5 m. to the N., in the
gorge through which the Alaja Chat
runs, Is, Qherdek-kayasLn remarkable
rx)ck-liewn tomb with 8 Doric columns
of rude proportions. Most of the
villages in the district are inhabited
by iOzilbash.
[F*rom Alaja to ZiUeh (19 hrs.}, The
road runs by Choprachik, and the
Kumbet Ova, to Kazan Kaya, u the
cauldron rode ” (9 hrs.), alt. 1980 ft,
at the head of a rocky gorge through
which the Chekerek IrmcJc forces its
way; and thence up the Chekerek
valley to ZiUeh (10 hrs.). From Kazan
Kaya there is also a path to Amasia
(11 hrs.).
From Alaja to Amasia (19 hrs.).
The road passes over broken country,
and crosses a ridge to the lower and
more open portion of the Chekerek
Valley (8 his.) ; it then runs down the
valley to Amasia (11 hnX passing
through the rich but unhealthy plain.
CMdtngen Ota, There are several
Villages near the road.]
the Sams&n mad runs N. over the
plain from Alaja to Kursk (8 hrs.),
alt. 8400 ft, and then desoends gradu-
ally to Sarambey (8J hrs.) and
Chorum, Euchaita (8 hrs.), alt 2800
ft, a large town, in a side valley, at
the edge of the plain. The houses are
interspersed with gardens ; and there
are well supplied bas&rs. The principal
mosque was built by Murad II., and
repaired by Chapan Oghlu. On rising
ground to the 8. 15. are the ruins of a
castle, in the walls of which are several
inscriptions and broken columns, that
are said to have been brought from
Kala-hissar. Euohaita was attacked
by the Huns, a.d. 508 ; and between
886 and 911 it was made a metropolis.
S. Theodore, the patron saint, who
was buried there, is said to have killed
a dragon in the district. It was a
Pontio archbishopric, and a centre of
religious enthusiasm ; and its present
Moslem population is said to be fana-
tical. The small Christian community
are by trade potters and tile-makers.
[From Chorum to Amasia (18 hrs.).
The rood runs over broken country to
Hajji Keui (G hrs.) and follows tho
valley to its junction with that of tho
Chekerek Irmak, whence! it continues
over the plain to Amasia (12 hrs.).
There are roads to Euyuk, by Kuren
(9 hrs.); and to Changra, by Iskelib
(27 hrs.), see Bte. 4, p. 10.]
The road onward, after an easy
ascent of 2 hrs.. between hills covered
with brushwood, desoends to the broad
fertile plain, Doghanli Ova , in which
there is a village of the same name.
From the Doghanli Ova there is a
sharp descent of about 900 ft to the
plain of Marsivan, over which the road
runs for 4 hrs. by Alajik and KhAn
K., where the Gumush 8u is crossed,
to
Marsivan (12 hrs.) ; see p. 18. The
road now runs along the foot of the
Tavshan Dagk , ana, ascending tlio
valley of the Tersakan Su, passes
through the Sheitan JBoghax, * Devil’s
pass,” to Khavsa (5 hrs.), whence
Bte. 14 is followed to Samiftn (16
hrs.).
Digitized by ^.ooQle
92
Route 11 . — petnam—Cheikme Keupri.
ROUTE 11.
ANGORA— YUZOAT-6IVA6.
1IU*.
Belu&m (Gforbeous) . 7
Gtashme Keuprt . . 9*
. TnkMbll . ... 9
Nefcg Kent (ravium). . 10 *
Ytugat 4*
Gcdm (Mtapina) ... 9
MnriallMa-bltd (Sibora) . ll
Yenl-kbio (Siam) ., 12|
SIvm (SebaUta) ^ , 9
There are three roads from Angora
to Yuzgat. (i.) The northern rqad
(89| lira!), viA KaUjik (J1 hr*.), crosses
the Kizil Irtoak by a wooden bridge,
and passes through the beautiful
Bartek Dere to Kuchuk K. (9 lira.) ;
and thence to 8ungurlu (9 hrs), Bo-
ghat K. (5 lire.), and Yutgat (5J hrs.).
(ii.) The thorieet road follows Rte. 10
to Yaiahi'khdn (181 hrs.); it then
runs on to Bey-ovan , prettily situated
in an upland basin, and seat of a
niudir, and crosses the ridge to
KrlQngacji , . and Cherekli (8} hrs.),
standing on an elevation, between
two hills, about | hr. from tliq left
hank of the Del ije Irmak. Leaving
Cherekli, the road crosses the river
and runB oyer very hilly country to
Oeman K. (4 hrs.), whence thero is an
easy road to Yuigat (8 hrs.). (iii.)
The most interesting road is that
by the Kizil Irmak bridge, Chedime
Keuprt, The direct mule-track runs
ovor the E. shoulder of the Elma
Dagli, and after passing through
Erfilar (G hrs.) ana other villages,
crosses the KUreh /)., 4000 ft., to the
large village of Kara-kechili (7 lirs.'X
within 1 hr. of Okeshme Keupri.
The araba-roud, soon after leaving
Angora, ascends sharply, and, follow-
ing tho line of an old paved wuy,
crosses the Chat Dagh to an open
▼alley in which is the Mohun ueul
(8 hrs.). The waters of tho lake,
which run off to Angora through the
deep ravine of the Tnje Su , are mgcl)
frequented by geese, duck, und other
wila-fowL The road follows the Ei
side of fho lake, and passing through
Choked K. t ascends to
Bsinism (4 hrs.), alt. 8980 ft., a
small Moslem village, in a deep ravino,
near which Prof. Ramsay places Oor-
beout. [A riding path runs from tho
lake to Kara-oghUin K. t where there
are fragments of a Byzantine church,
and over a high spur of the Elma D.
to Beinam in 2) hrs.] After a short
ascent there is a long easy descent,
past some beds of chrome, to Tor K.
(24 hrs.), a Turkoman village on the
side of a broad well-cultivated valley,
Tubanli Dere , through wliioli a
stream runs to ioin the Kizil Irmak
below Yakshi-kh&n. After crossing
the valley, the road asoends to Athik-
oghlu K. (If hrs.), built of gypsum, of
which there are extensive beds in tho
vicinity, and, } hr. further, passing a
spring, it reaches the broad backed
top of the hill, alt 4250 ft., whence
there is a steady descent by tho
villages of Ali Bey t and Beugik and
Kuchuk Boyalik to
Chsshms, or Cheshnir Keupri (5 hrs.),
alt 2340 ft. By the uruba-road it is
11 hrs. from Beinaiu. Tho bridge is
about 120 ft. long, and 15 ft wide;
there is no parupet, and the roughly
paved roadway is only 13 ft 6 in.
wide. There are 12 arches, all
pointed and of Turkish construction,
but there are slight traces 6f older
masonry. The position of the bridge
has been well selected— at the point
where the Kizil Irmak, after flowing
through open country, enters a deep
picturyaquo gorge, and has a rocky
islet in its ccutro. In summer tho
water finds its way through a largo
high-pitched arch neur the riglit
bank, but in winter it flows through
all the arches, and tho buttresses arc
much inured by ico. On the left
bank is a mutilated marble lion ; and
on the right bank are a deserted
guard-house and the Turkoman village
of Keupri A'. The district on both
banks is largely occupied by Turko-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 11 . — Nefez Keut — Yuzgat . 33
mans and Kizilbash ; and at Haidar-
es-8ultan, 2 lira, from tho bridge, there
if a Kizilbash tekke, at whieh sheep
are sacrificed in summer. Prof.
Ramsay lias suggested (A. M . 250)
that tho bridge is situated at tho
point at which the Byzantine mili-
tary rood from the bridge Zompi (oyer
the 8angarius) crossed the Halve.
On the right bank, guarding the
passage, was, apparently, the fortress
Saniana.
[From the bridge a road runs N.B.,
oyer high ground to Dsnsk-madsni
(4 hra.), a growing town, with a
mixed population, Moslem, Greek, and
Armenian. There is a flourishing
Protestant community. Tho lead and
silver mines which wore being worked
when Arrowsmith yisitod them in
1886, and afterwards abandoned, are
quite unethnusted. The ore is rioh
in silycr, lead, antimony, and gold;
and it would probably pay to export
it in its rough state. From Denek-
madeni there are roads to Yakshi-
khfln (G lira.), and Ohorekli, near the
Dolije Irmak (8 lira.).]
The Yuzgat road, after passing
through Keupri K., wlioro there aro
no traces of an ancient site, makes a
long ascent, of 1200 ft, to the point
at which the Kir-ahehr rood turns off
to the right (2| hra.). It soon after
ontera the fertile valley of the KUij
8u and runs down it, passing noar
Merden-alt , in a ravine to the right
rirejik , and Btpli, to TahashU <6$
hra.), where it crosses by a wooden
bridge to the right bank of the riyer.
After following tl»e riyer for 1| hra.
the Yuzgat road leaves that to Cherekli
and Sungurlu (p. 20), and, turning
to the right passes through the
Turkoman village of Aivali ', and over
broken ground, to a bridge across the
DeLije Irmak f54 lira.), alt 2580 ft.,
$ hr. above Sekeli — a village on the
right bank. Front the bridge, which
has four pointed arches, and is in
very bad repair, Yuzgat can be
reached in 7 hra. by an easy road
through Serai K., ana np the valley
of the BaitUzU Chai. Anothor road
[Turkey.]
passes by Burunjik , Keurcheli , Hafji
Ormanli, and Gueutteh, to
Nefes Keui, Tavium (5 hra.), alt
3570 ft The modem village, of Ma-
mali Turkomans, is on tho loft bank
of a rocky ravine filled with vine-
yards, walnut-trees, Ac. There are
numerous large dressed stones, some
with crosses, and inscription*. The
ancient city was on the right bank of
the ravine, in which are rock-hewn
tombs. The site is a very beautiful
one. Several large springs gush forth
from the hill-side, watering the vine-
yards and orchards of the village, and
in front of them the ground is covered
with shapeless ruins and broken
pottery — most of the dressed stone
having been taken to build Yuzgat.
In front are three small elevations, on
one of which, nearest the ravine, must
have been the Acropolis ; here is tlie
cemetery, which contains inscriptions.
There is an easy road, 5) hra., .to.
Boghaz K. (p. 20). The way now*
runs over rough, broken ground, and
crosses several streams running to the
Delijo Irmak, before reaching
Yuzgat, or Yusgad (4} hra.), alt
4879 ft. Tho town stands on both
banks of a stream, and occupies a
central position near the head of
a narrow valley, through which the
Angora-Sivas road runs. It owes its
importance to tho fostering care of
tho Chapan (Ghoban, “shepherd”)
Oghlu family, whose founder raised
hiinsolf from a petty Turkoman chief
to become a powerful Dcre Bey,
ruling a wide extent of territory.
The third generation was created
Pasha, but resisting the reforms of
Sultan Mahrafid, lost their possessions
and their lives. Several members
of the family still live in tin; district,
and are much respected. The walls
whioh onoe surrounded the place
have been dismantled. On the heights
above the town are some fir-trees, the
solo remnant of a large forest, which
was carefully preserved whilst the
Chapan Oghlu family had power.
There are a good mosque and medresse^
built by Chapan Oghlu, out of the
D
Digitized by
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84
Ibmte 11 . — Qeune Mushallam- Jcahm.
mins of Tavium. There are good
baton, built of stone, and a large trade
In mohair, yellow berries, &c Yuzgat
hone* are oonsidered amongst the beet
in Anatolia, and there ie a large 1tor*e
and cattle fair in Juno or July. The
Christian*, whoso settlement in his
new town was much encouraged by
Ohs pan Oghlu, are very influential,
and had, until reoently, a largo share
in the local government
[From Yuzgat to Boghas Keui is
5} hrs. The road ascends very sharply
to the ridge above the town, and runs
close to the crest, with very rough
ground on either side, to the highest
point (I} hrs.), alt. 5370 ft. It then
descends to an artificial mound, near
Fithcl:, which possibly marks the line
of the Roman road K. from Tavium,
and runs through a rich, well-culti-
vated country to Boghas K. The gorge
( Jioghaz \ boforo reaching the village,
is very beautiful ; the stream flows at
tlie bottom of a deep, narrow cleft in
the limestone, whilst the road runs
along u terrsoe above it.]
side, and lining it with sun-dried
bricks. The roofs are made of logs of
wood and brushwood, with a thick
oovering of earth.
[From Gouno there is a road to
Ziuek (id hrs.), which crosses the
Chokerek by a weak stone bridge.]
One mile beyond Geune is Hammam,
a small hot sulphur spring, rising in
an open court, in wnich are some
fragments of columns. Shortly after-
wards the Egri-euz turns to the right,
and the road runs on over the level
plateau, passing several Circassian
and Turkoman villages, and cross-
ing almost iinpcrceptibly from the
waters of the Delijo to those of the
Chekerek Irmak, to Kara-maghara
(5 hrs.), a large Moslem village, and
seat of a mudir, at the foot of some
dark, baaaltio rocks. It is on the
old road from Kaisariyeli to Zillcli
and Amasia, that orossed tho Cho-
kerok at Yangi , G| hrs. distant (lUo.
12). The road continues over some-
what similar oountry to
On leaving Yuzgat the chautsie
ascends the valley to its head, and,
crowing a broad saddle, runs down
the valley of the Egri-euz , “crooked
brook,” to a bridge by which it crosses
to the 1. bank. Here it parts from
the Samsfln road (Rte. 13), and,
turning sharply to the right, con-
tinues down the 1. bank of the stream
to
(hunt (6 hrs.), the modem repre-
sentative of Kuagina , a station at which
the road K. from Tavium, which pro-
l*b)y crossed the mountain N. of
Yuzgat. diverged on the one hand to
Zela, and on the other to Cornu na
Pontica. At a later period it was
perhaps named Verinopoli * , after the
Empress Verina. It is the scat of a
mudir, and more than one>third of
the villagers are Armenian; thero
are few truces of antiquity. Here the
last two-storied houses are seen on the
plateuu; to the E. the houses are
•oderground, and are formed by
making an excavation on the hill-
Mushallam - kalesi (G hrs.), alt.
3750 ft., probably the Sibora of tho
Itineraries. The village lies at tho
foot of a high basaltic rock, crown cm I
by a cattle , with round and square
flunking towers, and a good approach
|»artly cut out of the rock. In its
present form the castle is compara-
tively modem, hut there aro many
fragments of a Byzantine church and
other buildings. The village has good
gardens, and an abundant water sup-
ply. [Ak-dagh-mudeni, a village where
the ore (argentiferous lead) from tho
mines in tho vicinity is smelted, is
3 hrs. from Mushallam. The miners
are Greeks.] The road onward crones
several streams rising in the wooded
heights of tho Ak Dagh on the right,
ana 2 hrs. from Mushallam passes
over a ridge, 4320 ft., above the village
of Kaput. In another 3 hrs. it crosses
a spur of the Ak Dagh, 4G50 ft., and
then rapidly descends to the broad
valley of the Ek\jik Su , on the rigid
hank of which is Ekijik (6J hrs.).
Thence tho road ruus up a side valley
Digitized by L^ooQle
35
Route 1 2 .- — Sulu-serai.
to the K i a l bas h village Kara-kaya
(1{ hrs.) and 2} hrs. beyond itoroseee
the low hill, 5110 ft., that separatee
the waters of the Iris and the Halys.
From this point tho road lies down
tlio Tftlloy of the Yeni-khan 8u to
Kavak and Yeni-khAn, Siara (4| hrs.),
whence it is 9 hrs. to Sivas by the
amba rood from Tokat (Rte. 14).
ROUTE 12.
YUZGAT— 8ULU~8ERAI — TOKAT.
HrniM (Knafjina)
Yrtngl
Ktiln-wntl (NrJ*i*tnpali»)
I Inti Inn (IVrfai).
Tokat (thuivum)
n*s.
t
9
6
«4
From Yuzgat to Qenne (Rte. 11),
and thence over the undulating
8 lateen to Mughalleh (3 hrs.) and to
ie commencement of the long descent
to a bridge over the Chekerek Irmak ,
which is crossed to Yang! f6 hrs \
About a mile before reaching the
bridge some mtns, with fragments of
Doric columns, are passed indicating
that this is the line of the Roman
road from Tavium to Sebastopol is.
At Y&ngi the valley widens out and
the road, for a mile, runs through
well cultivated fields; it then leaves
the river, which issues from a narrow
n e, and mounts, in 1} hrs., to
i-*hehr t a large village, on a hill,
to tho 1., whence there is a rough
mountain road over the Devije Dagh
to Zilleh. About $ hrs. beyond Kiwi-
shehr tlicro are numerous ancient
remaim (rt.); and 1} hrs. further
some Doric columns on a hill (rt.).
There is then a short ascent to Alaba ,
the cemetery of which oontains
numerous old remains; to the N.E.-
of the village is a salt lake, and to the
N. the lofty Devije D. ; the road now
paves over hilly country to rejoin the
liver, whioh it follows to
Here there are baths built by Musa
Pasha out of the ruins of 6ebastopolis,
over a hot spring, 101° F., and there
are a few Ionic capitals lying about.
Near the baths is a Circassian village,
where the Ohekerek is forded, and
the road then continues over the plain,
Artik Ova, for } hr. to
Sxtlu-fsrai, Sebastopolis (6 hrs.).
The modem village stands on a mound
and is built out of old material. There
are several inscriptions, including one
on the Roman bridge over the river,
stating that it was built by the archons
senate, and people of Sebastopolis-
Heracleopolis under the governor of
Cappadocia, Arrian (the historian),
a.t>. 187. [From Sulu-serai a mule
track runs through Tekke (| hr.),
inscription and ruins of a Byzantine
church, and over the Devije D. to
Zilleh (p. 44). Thoro is also an
old road passing through a gorgo, in
which it is rock-hown, to Bheildi Ali
Tekke. standing on an ancient site,
and Ekijik (4 hrs.) on the Sivas-
Yuzgat road (Rte. 11).] A short
distance above Sulu-serai the road
leaves the valley whioh narrows to
a gorge, and runs over the hills for
J hr.; it then re-enters the Artik
Ova, and for 5} hrs. posses over some
of the finest corn-growing country in
the world to Baulus, Vensa (6$ hrs.),
olt 8820 ft, a large village inhabited
by Moslems and Armenians. From
Baulus, Rte. 14 can be followed to
Tokat (0 hrs.), or Sivas (15 hrs.).
D 2
Digitized by
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36
Route 13. — Yuzgat — Terzili.
ROUTE 13.
8AM8UN—YUZGAT-*BOGHAZLAYAN
— KAI8ARIYEH.
ms.
Khavaa (Rtc. 14) . . .16*
AUJa(lUc. 10) . . . 28*
Yuzgat .. .11
Boghaslayau .If
Kauarlyeb (Cauarea) . 12
From SomsQn to Khavsa (16 hrs.)
by Rte. 14, and thenoe to Chorum
(17 hrs.) and Alaja (9$ hre.) by
Rte. 10. From Alaja there are two
roads to Boghazlayan : one, the
chausste, by Yuzgat; the other by
Terzili Hammam.
Leaving Alaja, the ohauude passes
a little to the W. of the celebrated
Shamaspur Tekke, where a oertain
Hussein Ghazi, from whom the Hus-
sein Ova takes its name, is buried.
The Tekke, which is kept by Bok-
tash Dervishes, appears to have been
a small cruciform church. There
are fragments of crosses and a Greek
Christian inscription. There is also
a fine spring with sacred fish that are
never caught. The road runs over
undulating ground dotted with Kizil-
basli villages, and well adapted for
farming, to Arah-seif (5 hrs.). Here
it rises to higher ground, from which
a distant view of Mt. Argaeua is ob-
tained, and then, after a long steep
descent, to the valloy of the Egri-
euz, follows Rte. 11 to
Yuzgat (6 hrs.), see p. 33. Beyond
the town the road winds up the hill
to the B.W., and on reaching the
summit there is a fine view on the one
hand of the Yuzgat valley, and on the
other of snow-cappod Argaeus. The
descent is rapid to the bed of a
stream, which is followed through
fertile fields and vineyards to the
bridge, Kara-biyik , “ black mous-
tache," over the Konak Su (7 lire.),
the main stream of the Delije Irroak.
There are no villages on the road,
but several, including Topji, Injirlu,
and Pasha K. t are hidden in the folds
of the ground to the rt. and L After
crossing the river the old road , the
line of which should have been fol-
lowed by the chaussco, runs through
the Armenian villages of Keller and
Chakmak to Yogu ^(artificial mound)
and Boghazlayan. The chaussee passes
to the L of Keller (3 hre.), ana runs
near TeWte (4 hre.), with a famous
tomb of a Moslem worthy. Here, and
in tho neighbouring villages, there
are many broken columns and marble
blocks, brought probably from the
ruins of tiioa-Buasai , a bishopric and
place of some consequenoe in the 4th
cent., which Prof. Ramsay (d. M. 304)
locates at or near Yog&nes or Yon-
liiasar on the old road. One hour
from Tekke there is a fine view over
the plain in which lies
Boghazlayan (3 hrs.), a good speci-
men of the better class of the adobe
towns on the plateau. It has a mixed
population (Turk and Armenian), and
is the ooutre of a large and fertile
grain country. Gemerek (p. 50) is
12 hrs. distant, via R&m-digin.
The old araba-road from Alaja
follows the chausste to Arab-seif (5
lire.), and then runs through Esafakh -
ali and Dishli to the Egri-euz. Here
one road crosses the river and runs
by Yasili-tash and Burun-kreslda to
Boghazlayan ; whilst the other fol-
lows Rte. 11 down the river, for ubout
3 m., to Gsuns, Euagina (5} lire.). At
Hammam (p. 34), about 1 m. below
Geune, the road turns S., and runs
over low hills, leaving Dasldi-aechid
(Armenian) to the rt, to Sari-hamza
(2{ hre.), a village with a popula-
tion of Armenians, Protestants, and
Kizilbash, living together in perfect
harmony. The way now lies through
Peuhrenk (Armenian), and over a high
grass-covered ridge, from which sev
veral tumuli are visible, to Inevi, a
village of Pehlian Turkomans, and
Tendli (3J hre.), a flourishing Ar-
menian village, on the L bank of the
Terzili Su, with a large school, trees,
and gardens. In the sobool is a long
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 13 ,
inscription brought From the celebrated
baths Tersili Ham mam, 1 hr. higher
up the valley. These baths, iaen-
tiflod by Prof. Ramsay with the
ancient Saravenae, and later
Basilica Therma , a bishopric of
Cappadocia Prime, near which Phocas
was defeated by 8clerus, a.d. 978, are
visited every year by large numbers
of people, from Kaisariyeli, Chorum,
and other places, who livo in tents
during the bathing season. The spring
rises m a large basin, and its waters,
though not very hot, are said to be
efficacious in ail kinds of diseases.
The front of the old Roman bath,
which appears to havo boon a largo
edifice, is very interesting; near it
thero are traces of other buildings.
At tho fresh water spring is an ta-
scription. From Tersili tho road
runs through IZya to Menteshe (8|
hrs.), whenoe Boghazlayan can be
reached in 8 hrs. over a dreary plain,
or tho direct road through R&m-digin,
" tho lady of Rftm,” to Kaisariych
(17 hrs.), which crosses the Kizil
Irmak by a ferry, may bo followod.
From Boghazlayan tho chauseee
runs over bare undulating country to
Tomu Ch&pni (3 hrs.). On the hill
8.E. of this village, overlooking the
Halys, and visible for many miles
round from every point of view, is
Yedi Kapuluy “the seven-doored,'* a
ruined church, near which are traces
of an ancient wall ; and about 1} hrs.
towards Rfim-digm there is a small
but well-preserved temple, one of the
most remarkable ruins in the district
The chaussie descends to the Kizil
Irmak I near Bagireak Dcrcsi, '* Intes-
tine valley " — a ravine that has been
the scene of many robberies and
murders — and before reaching the foot
of the hill passes through a cutting
in the chalk which, at this point, is
remarkable for its fineness and smooth-
ness of grain. Before tho introduction
of M crayon," it was tho only source of
supply for the shops and schools in the
district, and it is still largely used.
The river, here a swift, treacherous
stream, is spanned by a picturesquo
bridge.
—ErkeUt. 8 ?
Chok-geus Ksuprisi (3 hrs.;, ( * bridge
of the many eyes," of 15 arches rising
irregularly towards tho middle. The
river, when low, runs on tho 8. side
of the valley, leaving a wide sandy
space that affords an exoollcnt resting-
place for caravans. A little below the
bridge, where the river makes a sharp
turn, a steep face of tufa rock is
piorced by numerous artificial oaves
of various form, some of which aro
inhabited. Tho caves open into one
another, and form a sort of corridor
within the face of the cliff, but thoro
are no inscriptions or ornament Be-
yond tho bridge the rood rises steeply,
by zigzags, to tho hilly ground be*
tween the Halys and the Itaisariyeh
plain, and passes near Kemer , perhaps
anot Cambcy and to the 8. of a promi-
nent mound, crowned by tho ruins of
a Seliftk building. From tho mound,
which stands on the edge of the plateau
1200 ft above the plain, there is a
sharp descent of } hr. to
Xrkelet, probably Arkhalla (3$ hrs.),
a largo villago (Turk, Greek, and
Armenian) on tho steep hillside over-
looking tho Kaisariyeh plain. The
houses nro substantially built of stone,
and tho fine air, luxuriant gardens,
and splendid prospect of Argaeus,
make it a pleasant summer resort.
The chaueetc, which passes more than
1 m. from Erkelet, descends for about
2 m. by sharp zigzags over which
careful driving is necessary. It then
runs over a plain coverod with vol-
canio stones and dust, and, crossing
the Sarumsak Su by a stone bridge,
oontinuos to
Kaisariyeli (2} hrs.). 8ee Kte. 20.
Digitized by L^ooQle
88
Route 14 . — Kavak
ROUTE 14.
8AM8UN — AMA6IA — TOKAT*"8IVA8.
further on, and the road then crosses
a pine-clad ridge, 2700 ft., from which
the sea is seen for the last time, to
Chakal Kirin on a tributary of the
Merd Irmak. The stream is crossed
by a stone bridge, and the road then
ascends another ridge by steep zig-
zags through beautiful forest scenery ;
and from the summit, 2750 ft., descends
to
lius.
Kavak 8
KliaVaa ( Thermae I'hiucwunila-
rum) 8
Ama&ia 8
YcDi-lwzar Kliin 6
C'hcugcl 3
TurkruU (Mora,)' ... 3
Tokat ( l/azinum) 8
Cliiflllk 6
Yeui-khin ( Siara ) ... 6
Sivas (Sebastea) ... 9
This road is the northernmost sec-
tion of tlie groat trunk-road of Asiatic
Turkey, whereby communication
passes between Constantinople and
Baghdad. The road is a chausste ;,
originally well engineered aud con-
structed, and supplied plentifully
with khans where refreshment and
rough sleeping quarters can be pro-
cured. Unfortunately the repairs,
effected by the local authorities, do
not keep pace with the wear and tear
of the elements and the enormous
wheel troilio which passes over the
road, and the traveller’s araba will
be jolted over many rough spots and
have to circumvent some broken or
rickety bridges. Like all great trade-
routes the Baghdad road is infested
from time to time with footpads, but
well-armed and compact parties of
five or six men need be under no
apprehension. The journoy by araba
usually takes 7 days ; the stages are
Kavak, Khavsa, Amasia, Cheugel,
Tokat, Yeni-kh&n, Sivas.
From 8amsftn (p. 3) the road
climbs steeply to a shelving plateau,
extensively planted with tobacco.
Large villages (many Greek) ore seen
rt., and the valley of the Merd Irmak
L; and, ini) hrs., two tumulus-like
hillocks are passed whioh form a con-
spicuous land-mark, visible from far
out at sea. The tint khan is } hr.
Kavak (8 hrs.), alt. 2000 ft., a small
town, partly Christian, with numerous
Id td ns and kalivehs, offering indifferent
accommodation. There is a mediaeval
casUe on a hill above the town, and
a few Byzantine inscriptions are built
up in its walls; a milestone of Con-
stantine II., in a small graveyard,
shows that an ancient road passed
this way.
The old road to Amasia (15 hrs.)
descends to a fertile valley up which
it runs for 2 hrs. to Uch Klriidar , “ the
three kh&ns”; it then crosses the
Kara Dagh (3100 ft.), which separates
tlio waters of the Merd and Yesliil
Irmaks, to Ahmed- serai, a largo vil-
lage about i m. from the right bonk
of the Ahmed 8u that runs from the
Ladik lake. It lay, apparently,
from a milestone found by Prof.
Ramsay, on the line of a Roman road ;
and there are easy roads E. to Sunisa,
in the Tosh Ova, and W. to Khavsa,
on the Tereakan 8u. The road on-
ward runs over low hills to Ladik,
Laodicea Pontica (7 hrs.), alt 2640 ft,
a small town, seat of a mudir, at the
W. end of a rich plain bordered by
thickly wooded heights and contain-
ing a small lake ( Sliphane Pains).
The Amasia road crosses the hills to
tho valley of the llaivali So, and
thence to Derinos Kirin, situated in
a romantic glen, where a direct road
from Ahmod Serai joins it From
Derinos the road descends by upper 7
Aaheuren Kirin , to the lower kb&n
of tbe same name where it joins the
chutissce from Khavsa.
The chauss6i follows the old road
from Kavak for a short , distance be-
yond Uch Kh&nlar ; it then turns to
the right and, crossing Kara D., passes
a guard-house, in front of which traces
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 14 . — Khavsa — Amasia.
89
of an old Roman road are very evident*
and deeoends to
Xhavsa (8 hrs.), a small town, on
the line of the projected railway from
Shids&d, Til Bafra to Amasia. It is
built round the famous hot springs,
anot Thermm Phaxenxonitarum which
are much frequented during the
summer season. The waters rise at
a temperature of 127° F., and are fjood
for gastric and rheumatic affections
and skin complaints. When cold the
tasto of the water is good. In the walls
of the eld mosque and baths are Greek
inscription*, and, in the Serai, somo
Homan milestones. There arc a Greek
monastery on the hill, a good basdr,
and several barraek-like khan* for the
accommodation of bathers and travel-
lers on the rood. The old marble
bath is well worth a visit ; and there
are fragments of oolumns and other
remains.
. [From Khavsa an easy road — a
continuation of the important roads
passing through Marsivan . ami Vizir-
koiiprr (It tea. 2, 0, and 10>— runs lo
Ladik (5 hn.). Thence it follows tho
S. shore of the lake, and crossing the
mountains by an easy pass, 2740 ft,
descends the picturesque valley of the
SepeUi Su, through fine forests, to
Sunisa (10 hrs.), alt. 800 ft About
2 hrs. from Sunisa the Yeshil Irmak
is forded, and the road then lies over
tiie Tash Ova to Herek (5 hrs.),
whenoe it is continued to Niksar and
Kara-hissar (Rte. 16).]
The road oontinues down the valley
of the Tersdkan Su for 2 hrs., and then
crosses to the left bank by a stone
bridge, where it is joined by an
araba-road from Marsivan 8 hrs. dis-
tant It now cross es an open upland,
dotted with numerous villages, and at
the lower, Agltenren Khdn , it is joined
by roads frmn Ladik and Maraivun.
Here the rich plain, Sulu Ova, through
which the Tersakau 8u partly runs,
ends, and the river enters a beautiful
B full of hamlets and gardens be-
sg to the rich Amamotes. Tho
roaJ follows the left lank for | hr..
then crosses by a good bridge to the
right bank, and in another hour
cross e s the Tethil Irmak, ** green
river,” by a good stone bridge, and
enters
Amasia (8 hrs.), alt 1580 ft, the
most picturesque town in Anatolia.
It lies in a deep gorge, through which
the Yeshil Irmak , anct Irts , flows,
and tliere is such a wealth of gardens
above and below tho town that it wus
called by the Scljflk* the 44 Baghdad
of Rflm. The houses are mainly on
the rt bank, where they run several
hundred feet up the hillside. On the
L bank rises a towering crag crowned
by a castle containing remains of all
periods from that of the Kings of
Pontus downwards, and a remarkable
passage out down through the rock to
a largo spring of pure limpid water.
The cnstle, which stands 1000 it.
above tho river, withstood a seven
months’ siege by Timflr after its re-
storation by Als-cd-din (1219-86).
Lower down, in the face of the rock,
are cut the remarkable Tombs of the
Kings mon Hotted by Strabo, a native
of the place. These great Sepulchres,
cut out so as to stand free in the oliff-
faco are well worth a visit They
aro flvo in number and in two groups ;
and, though showing traces of Persian
influence in their form and design,
are probably of the 2nd or 3rd cen-
tury n.a On some of them arc the
names of French prisoners dated 180L
Below the tombs are considerable
remains of the old walls, which can
also be traced up the hill. The lower
part is Roman and apparently belongs
to the walls described by Strabo. The
bridge immediately below is con-
structed on the top of an older Roman
bridge. The Wets either up or down
the river from this point is very
striking. A beautiful Mosque, built
by Bnyczid 1 1., on the rt. bank, should
be visited ; and in various parts of the
town there are inscriptions, Ac., of the
Roman period and line specimens of
Seljflk architecture. About 2 m. from
the town, on the L bank of the Iris,
is tho largest and most perfect of the
tumlis, known us the Mirror Tomb,
Digitized by L^ooQle
40
Route 14 .— rTurkhal.
from it* smooth polished surface, and a match manufactory, and have
The entranoe is about 15 ft. above the introduced many improvement*. There
base, and over it, in letters some 2 ft. is a very good k/mn, and the bazar is
high, are the words TH 2 APXI IEPETX one of the best in Anatolia. The
Below the tomb is a defaced in- lower port of the town is liable to
scription ; in the inside there is a Hoods, and here, and in the gardens,
loculus for the body, aud on the walls which are irrigated by largo water
are twelve figures, apparently the wheels, fever is common. Fruit of
apostles, painted when the tomb was all kinds is abundant, and the large
used as a chapel Am&sia apple, from an English stock,
Amasia was the cradle of the power is highly prized at Constantinople ;
of Pontus in the 3rd century b.o., good wine is made; and the wheat
but the father of Mitbridates the grown in the vicinity is of the finest
Great transferred the seat of govern- auality. There are a large and in-
men t to 8inope, and there his famous fluential Armenian community, a few
son was born. At Amasia the latter Greeks, anti many Kizilbush amongst
assembled his forces for the invasion the population There are Americun
of Roman Asia in b.o. 80, and again and Jesuit Minion Stations, and good
to resist the counter-invasion of Lu- Armenian doctors and chomists. In
cullus in 72. Thither he returned the winter it is the resort of many of
from Armenia to renew tho war in C7. the wealthy Si vast is.
Made a free city by Porapey in G5, Leaving Amasia, the road runs up
Amasia was incorporated, after the the rt. bank of the Iris for { hr.,
time of Doinitian, in the Iloinun pro- having on its loft tho rock-1. own
vince of Pontus. Under the Comneni conduit that Ferhad made for Ioyo of
it was one of the chief towns of the 8hiiln. Hero tho valley opens out,
kingdom of Trebizond, and it retained and a mule -pat ) *, rough though
its importance under the Danishmund practicable, turns un tho glen fnun
Emirs and the Sclj&ks. Ala-od-diu which the conduit derived its water
Kai Kubad I., early in the 13th cen- supply, and creeses the Feihad Dayk ,
tury, adorned it with mosques, imlrets direct to Yeni-bozkr Khln in 3 lira,
and medresses, of wliioh fragments The araba-road skirts the mountain
of great architectural beauty remain, side for 2 hrs., aud then procoeds up
Late iu the 14th century it was cap- an open, fertile valley, passing khans
tured by Bayezid I., and became a and prosperous villages, to Yeni-basir
provincial capital, much favoured by Ihln (5 hrs.), alt. 2280 ft. Thence
the early Osmund buhans. Mu ham- it is 3 hrs. by the bridle-path , and
rnsd I. and Bayezid II. were gover- 5 hrs. by the chaussde, over a ridge to
nors of the province before their Chengel (two good khans) in n pic-
accession, and the latter's son Selim I. turesque glen, Ultcngel Dcre* which ut
was born in the town. There Busbe- one point is no moro titan a nurrow
quius, the envoy of Ferdinand II. to passage through the ruck. At the
Sultan Suleiman, found the court mouth of the glen tho road is joined
established, and we huve later by a mule-track from Ilorck in tho
accounts of tho town Ir in Evliya Tasli Ova, 12 hrs. distant, and in
Effendi, and Otter, a Bwudish envoy another hour it enters the valley of
of Louis XIV. of Frmnoe. Strabo, tho Yeshil Jrrnak, and ascends it to
the geographer, was a native.
Tho modem town owes much to the Turkhal, or Keshan, Jbora (G hrs.),
late Zia Pasha, the poet of the alt. 2040 ft. It is a badly built town,
“ Young Turkey " party, who drained with a wretched kahcch , and small
the streets, built a large konak and batdr. A picturesque ruined castle
clock tower, and constructed the rises on a high rock above the river,
metalled chausset ; and also to the which here flows through deep
^ enterprise of the Messrs. Krug, who meadows of extraordinary luxuriance.
Nsve established steam flour mills, Tho lower courses of the castle w alls
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 14 . — Tokat.
41
(
are of an early period, and from the 41 Eudoxia.” The town, which in clean
presence of Grech inscriptions out on and well built, is embedded in gardens,
panels of ruck, and tombs in various and the red-tiled roofs of the houses
spots near, there can be little doubt give it, from a distance, a European
that Turkhal represents the Byzan- aspect. The castle, one of tho most
tine bishopric of Ibora. It waS pro- picturesque in Anatolia, contains no
bably also the earlier Pontic fortress masonry earlier than late Bysantinc,
of Gosiura, near whioh Lucullus* and no inscriptions except on some
lieutenant, Triarius, was attacked, in ancient Armenian tombstones. There
b.o. 67, by Mithridates. In the grand is a rock-hewn passage, which pro-
gorgo through which the Iris runs, bably, like those at Amosia, and
about 3$ m. below Turkhal, Basil is Turkhal, led down to water. Tombs
supposed to have once lived as a of the Roman period exist under the
hermit Gregory Naxianzen describes town. The oluest of tho baths and
the spot as situated in a narrow glen the Eski Jami’ are worth visiting,
among loftv mountains, which keep Tokat has always been a place of
it always in shadow and darkness, great commercial importance, and
whilo far below the river foams and much frequented by merchants. A
roars in its rocky, narrow, precipitous continuous stream of traffic passes
bed. Not far from Turkhal must through it and there are good khans.
havo been tbo family estate at Fruit is abuudant in season ; tobacco
Annesoi, on the Iris, where Basil and and Indian com are extensively
Grogory Nyssenus wero bom, whero grown ; and tho hemp , from which
tlioy often went to live, and whore cssrAr (hashish) is ramie, is stealthily
their sister Macrina died. [From cultivated. There is a largo manu-
Turkhal a road, which crosses the faetureof common cotton cloths and
Iris by a stone bridge, rims over handkerchiefs, which nro printed in
gentle undulations to ZtUch (4$ hrsA j colour from wooden blocks, vegetable
The main chausstfe doos not actually dyes being used. Copper utensils
touch Turkhal, but koo]is about 1} m. and yellow leather nro also mado.
to the E., passing Dosya Khan — near The copper, brought in a rough state
a village of the same name standing from Rohan Maden, was formerly
on an ancient site — and a tumulus on remclted hero for transmission to
a hill (rt.). It then turns E. up the Constantinople. There aro a large
Kas Ooa , 44 goose plain,*’ anct. Dost- Armenian population, an Armenian
monitis, where was formerly a royal monastery, a considerable Greek
estate of the Byzantine Emperors ; a population, a Roman Catholic oora-
boundary stone of tho Emperor Mau- munity with Jesuit school, a small
rice stands in a roadside graveyard Protestant community and several
about 5 hrs. from Turkhal. Other Jews.
Byzantine remains a ill be seen in 'The old summer road from Tokat, on
the graveyards, Ac., but nothing of leaving the town, ascends sharply by
special interest A horse-trade crosses a narrow ravine, and crossing a spur
tne river, here called Tosanli Bu, of the Kurt Dagh enters a beautifully
by a ford about 5 hrs. from Turkhal, wooded valley — a common haunt of
and follows the 1. bank to the town ; footpads ; there is then a steep nsoont
and a summer road, to avoid the flies to the crest of the Kurt D. (4 hrs.),
in the valley, keeps to the hillside alt 5650 ft Here the trees give
on the rt. bank. Tlie chaussds follows place to grass and a mute path, kcep-
tho rt bank, and, cvontually crossing tng to the high ground, crosses the
the river by a solid masonry bridgo Chamli D. near its sei>aration from
of 6 arches, passes through extensive the Kurt D., and joins the old arnbn-
graveyards and gardens to road below the Greek villago of
Awiran. The araba-road keeps to
Tokat, Dasimon (8 hrs.), alt. 2280 the rt.,and follows a bright mountain
ft., called by Armenians Evtoghia, stream (running through a well-
Digitized by
Google
42
Route 14. — Kargin— Siva*,
wooded valley to the Artik Ova), to
the large Circassian village of Batman-
task (1 hr.). It then crosses the
Chamli Bel (5500 ft.), and follows
the valley of the Tildiz Su to
Kargin (3* hra.), alt 4850 ft, a
large Moslem village and post-station,
whence the asoent of tha YildiiDagh,
M Star Mountain,” can be made. The
road is easy to Sarilar (1 hr.}, where
a guide can be obtained, ana thence
there is a steep asoont, partly on
horseback, of about 2 lire. There are
several springs ou the mountain side,
and from the highest there is a well
made path of large flat stones to the
summit — a narrow dyke of trachyte
about 100 vds. long, and higher at
each end than in the centre. The
path runs first to a small chapel
at the E. end, and then along the
ridge to the W. end, where each year,
in August, the villagers assemble to
roast and eat a lamb. The chapel
and pa tli are similar to those made
by the early anchorites in tho Penin-
sula of Sinai. Tho vieto from tho
summit, 8540 ft, is one of tho finest
in A. Minor.
From Kargin the road runs down
the picturesaue valley of the Yildiz
Su, fording the river twice, and then
crosses a narrow ridge to a lekke
(3 lire.) on the rt bank of the Ozmush
Su. It then asconds to the rocky
plateau, Mdekuxn , which extends to
the edge of the Kizil Irmak valley.
The descent from tho plateau is at
first abrupt, and then gradual, past
tho Armenian monastery, to Siva*
(5 hra.).
The main road , or chaustSe, runs
up the Tokat valley, through gardens
und well-wooded country, and crosses
the Kurt D . to Ohiftlik (6 hreA a
large village in the Artik Owl Near
Finn*, } nr. to the N.E., is a salt
spring in the gypsum. From Ohiftlik
there is a direct mule-track to Sivas,
in 11 hre., which crosses tho Chamli
D. by a pass dosed in winter. The
chaussfe continues across the rich
plain, and after passing an old kb&n,
and the villages of Kizik (IX &°d
Kargin and Urla-curen (rt. ), crosses
the Chamli D. v 5800 ft., by an easy,
but pioturesque, pass to
Yeni-khAn, Siara (6 hre.), alt.
4820 ft The village has a mixed
population, Moslem and Armenian,
ana stands on the edge of an open
plain, which is possibly the Byzantine
camping-grouna Balhyt Rhyax. From
this point Sivas can be reached by a
mule track in 6} hre. ; the chaussee
follows the right bank of the Kalan
Su for 2} hre., and then, mossing it,
runs over hilly ground to tho Yildiz
Su , and the banks of the Kizil Irmak ,
which are followed for 1} hre. It is
now joinod by the road from Kaisa-
riyeh (p. 49), and in another hr. enters
Sivas, Sebatlea (9 hre.), alt. 4420 ft,
the capital of the vil&yet and residence
of the Vali. The town covers a wide
aroa, and is situated on the Murdan
Su, a tributary of the Kizil Irmak,
which is about 1} m. distant. It
oooupies a position of great strategic
imi>ortance, and tho surrounding
country abounds with the necessaries
of life.
The town was called Megalopolis
after Pompey, and under the early
Empire it took the name of Sebazte a.
Under Diocletian it became the capital
of the province of Armenia Minor, and
in the 7th century that of the Sebas-
tian Theme. Its walls were restored
by Justinian, and under the Byzan-
tine Emperors it was next to Caesarea,
the largest and richest city of A.
Minor. In 1021 Senekherim, king of
the Armenian province of Vasbura-
gan, dreading the growing power of
the Seljflks in Persia, ceded his do-
minions to Basil II., and reoeived in
exchauge Sebastea and the adjacent
country, which he engaged to govern
as a Byzantine viceroy. During the
following years there was a steady
stream of fugitives from Armenia, ana
from that time onward a large part of
the population of the town and sur-
rounding district has been Armenian.
Under Senekherim's successors,
David, Adorn, and Abusahl, Sivas
remained a capital and Armenian
archbishopric until it fell into the
Digitized by L^ooQle
43
Route 15 .
hands of the Turkomans after the
defeat of Komanus IV. in 1071. After
the Danishmand Emirs had ruled it
nearly 100 years the town was taken
hy the SeljOks (1172), under whom it
became ono of the largest and most
populous cities of the Empire of Bflm.
It was entirely rebuilt by Ale-ed-din
Kai Kubad I., about 1224, and when
besieged by IHmftr, in 1400, not lone
after its submission to the Osmanli
Sultan, liayezid I., it contained
100,000 inhabitants. After its cap-
ture by Timflr the bravest of the
defenders, including a son of Bayezid,
wore massacred, and 4000 Armenians,
who had shown conspicuous bravery,
were buried alive in a plot of ground
now known as the “ Black Earth.’*
The citadel was rebuilt by Muham-
mad II., but tho town never recovered
its capture by TimOr. Sivas was the
birthpluce of Mckhithar (1676), the
founder of tbe Mekhitharist Order,
who follow the rule of S. Benediot,
and of the well-known Armenian
Monastery of 8. Lazarus at Venice
(1717).
Tho most interesting monuments
are tho ruined m edresses, which are
amongst the finest remains of 8e\jfik
art in A. Minor. The decorative de-
tails of the gateways and of some of
the minarets, are extremely delicate
and beautiful. One was built by a
oertain Muhammad about 1211 ; two,
including the GeuJc, “ Blue,” rmdrmm
of which the architect was a Greek,
Kalftnian of Konia, by Gliiyas-ed-din
Kai Khusru 111. about 1272 ; a fourth
by Ghazi Seif-ed-din about 1272 ; and
two by Izz-ed-din Kai Kft-fis. Izz-ed-
din, who largely extended tho Soljflk
Empire, died at 8ivas, in 1219, and
was buried in one of his own me-
dresses, in a remarkable round tower,
partly of masonry, and partly of
brick and blue glazed tiles, where
his tomb may still be seen. The
citadel stood on a rocky eminence of
no great height near the W. end of
the town, but little of it is left.
Amongst the Churches are : 8. George
(Greek) in the Armenian cemetery
called 8jev Hoghjcr , * Black Earth *’;
the Holy Virgin, 8. 8ergiut , 8. Minot,
— Sivas.
and 8. Saviour (Armenian) ; 8. Bla-
sitis (R. C.) ; a Protestant, and a
Jesuit church. Near 8. Sergius is the
old Church of the Illuminator , now a
mosque. About j hr. from the town
is the Armenian Monastery of the Holy
Cron, in which are kept 8enekhe-
rim’s throne, and other relics of the
Armenian Viceroys. On a height to
the E., separated from the town by
the Pirkinik Su, and commanding a
fine view, is the Moeque of Ahd el-
Wahab, built on old foundations, and
still called by Christians tho Church
of 8. John.
The winter at 8ivas is severe; in
January, 1880. the mean temp, was
14° F., and the minimum, — 18° F.,
but these temperatures were excep-
tional. Tho principal industries aro
tho manufacture of woollen sock*, flour,
and pasdirma (jerked beef). There are
extensive bazars, and numerous khdns
and baths; the large publio bath is
worth a visit. There is a flourishing
American Mission Station with well-
attended schools, and a more rocent
Jesuit Mission. Thom is also an
American Vice- Consulate.
ROUTE 15.
AMA8IA-ZILLEH-8IVA8.
iirn.
ZUleh (Ida) . H
Baal us ( Verisa) . .Ill
Sivas (SMxutea) ... IS
The rood, aftor following the Tokat
chaussds for about 2 hrs.. skirts a
swamp, in whioh there is fair pheasant
shooting (with dogs) ; and, after pass-
ing numerous gardens and old silk-
worm houses, crosses to the 1. bank of
tho Veshil Irmak (fordable in summer)
by n wooden bridge (8J hrs.). The
Digitized by i^ooQle
44
Route 16 — Zilleh — KalagaUa.
valley here becomes narrower, and is
filled with gardens and woods, amidst
which the red-tiled roofs of several
villages can be seen. The varied
colour of the rocks adds to the beauty
of the scene ; and, about | hr. above
the bridge, tbe river sweeps round a
grand cuff, 1000 ft. high, as it issues
from its picturesque gorge (p. 41).
Here the road, originally made by
Zia Pasha, turns to the rt and, cross-
ing the Alti-agack />., 4G00 ft., de-
scend* through a narrow ravine, which
was the scene of Caesar’s u veni, vidi,
vied” victory over Pharnaccs II., to
Zilleh, Zda (6 his.), alt 2630 ft.
The town lies at the foot of an isolated
hill, situated in a rich plain, and is
surrounded by gardens and vineyards.
Tho hill, which Strabo calls the mound
of Semiramis , is a natural feature, and
on it are the ruins of a mediaeval
cattle and tho barracks erected by
Zia Pasha. In the castle are a few
fragments of cornices, Ac., of late
date ; a Greek inscription ; and a
rock-hewn passage that once led to a
Bpring, but is now choked with
rubbisn. In the town are a few Greek
inscriptions t and some fragments of a
Byzantine Church.
Zela was one of the most celebrated
seats of tbe worship of Anaitis, to
whom the Persians erected a temple,
probably on the bill, in commemora-
tion of a victory over the Saoae. The
town was governed by a priest-king,
and it was inhabited chieQy by the
sacred attendants of the temple.
Pompey made it a city, and, in
Strabo’s time, it formed part of the
territory governed by Queen Pytho-
doris. Tho modem town is tho centre
of a largo ooru-growing district ; and
has a mixed, Moslem and Armenian,
population. {Easy roads lead to
Tokat(ll lira.) and Turkhal(4J lira.);
and there are roads to Alaja and
Yuzgat (Rtes. 10, 11).]
On leaving Zilleh the road crosses
the fertile plain to a very narrow
gorge where it is cut out of the rook
and overhangs the stream. About
} hr. beyond the gorge the track
over the Devije D. to 8ulu-eerai
(p. 35) turns off to the rt., whilst the
Sivas road pa mow, by a gradual
ascent, up a long valley, with villages
rt and L, to the Circassian village of
Tashbunar (8} hrs.), and Baulos,
Vcrisa (3 hrs.), in the Artik Ova.
From Banlus (p. 35) to Sivas by
Rte. 14.
ROUTE 16.
AMA8IA NIK8AR — 8HABIN KARA-
HI88AR.
IIUS.
Ucrck 16 }
Niluor (Xtucacsarsa) . . H
Koilu-klas&r .... IS
SliAbin Ksra-huwar (tb&mia) . 11}
Leaving Amasia the road follows
the rt. bank of the Iris, and runs for
3 hrs., through a deep narrow gorge
filled with gardens and orchards to
Sene K . It then crosses to the L bank,
and 2 hrs. later, after passing some
rapids, and Ousgus KUisse , anct.
Palalce (?), recrosses to the rt. bank.
The valley now opens out into the
Tash Ova, near the edge of which
stands
KalagaUa. Kdtoe (8J hrs.). The
road on ward lies over the low hills
that border tbe Tash Goa, anct
Phanaroea , a very fertile plain at the
junction of the Iris and the Lyous in
which, though the olive-trees that
existed in Strabo’s time have dis-
appeared, tobaooo, opium, and hemp
are largely grown. Pussing the Greek
village of KizU-doghan , “Red Fal-
con, ’’A ujAu/, and JfHdi, anct. Pida ,
the road enters
Hsrek or Erbaa (8 hrs.), a large
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 16 . — Nile ear.
village In the Tash Ovo, on the 1.
bank of the KdkU Irmak, anct Lycus.
[From Herek a rough mountain path,
over the Masdn D., anct Amazonia ,
leads in 12 lira, to Oharehanba; and
anotlier difficult rood to the same
place passes the isolated rock on
which Boghatrhissar Kaleh stands,
and follows the course of the Yeehil
Irmak through a gorge, remarkable
for the Alpine character of its scenery,
to the Charshanba Ova, anct Themis -
eyra. The plain, which |is watered
by the Iris and Thermodon ( Terms Su),
is described by 8trabo os being
extremely fertile, as supporting large
numbers of horses and herds of cattle,
as well wooded, and as the resort of
all kinds of animals. It is still noted
for its fertility, for its luxurisnt woods
and rich pastures, and for the abun-
dance of game, pheasant wild boar,
deer, Ac.; but its chief interest is
derived from its being the reputed
home of the fabled Amazons. From
Charahanba it is 6 hra. to Samsftn.]
On leafing Herek tho Karo-hissor
rood runs for about 4 m. over tho
Tosh Ova, and then crosses some low
hills to a stone bridge over the Kelkit
Irmnk, usually in bod repair f4$ lire.).
From this point the rt bonk of the
river is followed to a largo plain,
partly marshy and liable to floods, at
the E. end of which is
Hiksar, Neocaesarea, previously
Cabira — Diospolis — Sebaste (8 lire.),
sit 1520 ft The town is remarkable
for its plentiful and good water supply,
its picturesque situation on the sides
of a deep ravine, and the extensivo
remains on the acropolis. There are
a fair bazdr of recent construction, and
some verv dirty khdns and kahvehs .
Most of tlie inhabitants are Christian,
aud their houses are clean and well
built
Few places in A. Minor have as
much to show of the Homan and
Byzantine periods as Niksar. Re-
mains of aqueducts and early buildings
greet the traveller as he approaches
the modern town, and the materials
•f which the huge fortifications of the
46
acropolis are constructed are all relics
of pre-Ottoman times. A stone stair
conducts to the summit and the
visitor finds himself among a wilder-
ness of ruins; a hexagonal tower at
tho lower extremity or tho rock con-
tains much Homan brickwork, and is
probably wholly ancient The ruined
citadel at the higher end stands on
Homan arches, but lias been built up
in later times. There are no inscribed
stones or sculptures visible in the
walls. The acropolis rock is i sol a tod
on all sides, and must in ancient times
have been of extraordinary strength ;
the view over the Lycus plain is very
striking. In the walls of the Berai
are some sculptured fragments of no
particular interest, and the remains
of a Homan bridge may be seen near
the principal modern one, which
crosses the ravine. A gate and turbe
of Persian style on the Tokst road are
noticeable.
Tho place was originally Oabire, a
royal Pontic stronghold with park and
pnlnco, and a holy city of the god
Mon Pliamocos. After the defeat of
Mithridatcs Pompoy rofounded it as
Diospolis, and Qucon Pythodoris,
widow of Polcmo, called it Scboste.
It had become Neoonesnrea by Pliny’s
time, and in Christian days was
an important metropolitan see. An
ecclesiastical council was held there
in a.d. 814, and it was the birthplace
of Gregory Thaumaturgus.
Two routes, neither of them prac-
ticable throughout for araboa, run
from Niksar to Koilu-hissar. The
lower road (19 hra.) leaves the town
8.E. and strikes into the gorge of
the KeUcil Irmak, or Oermili Choi,
gradually ascending for 3} hra. by
the villages of Tenevli and Uljak, to
the elevated district known as Geden,
a region of pine forests, meadows,
streams, and scattered wooden chalets
of very Swiss character. It lies at an
olevation of about 4500 ft. on the
mountain wall above the rt bonk of
the river, and is one of the prettiest
and pleasantest parts of A. Minor,
inhabited by a hospitable Moslem
population of shepherds and wood-
Digitized by L^ooQle
46
Route 1 7 . — Zina — Koilu-hissar.
cutters. Passing through pine forests
the road reaches
Zina (7 hro.), and thenco descends
into a lovely valley half filled by a
mirror-lake. Passing through Mcujho-
dun and BardaJdi it strikes the lviTlkit
opposite Chat Dere, and follows the
rt. bank to Kundu, where it crosses
the river by a wooden bridge. In the
gorge there are traces of an ancient
road, and } m. above Kundu are the
abutments of a Byzantine bridge.
The path now runs through a beauti-
fully wooded district, in which are
many Kizilbash villages in a very
S rimitivo state of civilisation, to
[udasu (7 lira), whenco there is a
bridle path to Tokat. 4 hrs. further
a huge rock, crowned with a rained
castle, A$ha Kaleh, projects into tho
valley ; it was probably one of tho
Mithridatie strongholds. Just below
it is a Inigo empty khan, and a
covered bridge, by which tho road
rcorosses to the rt. bank, and tlicnce
ascends in 1 hr. to
Koilu-hissar (5 hrs.), alt. 2800 ft.,
a village of 300 or 400 houses scattered
up and down both sides of a ravine.
There are a few shops, and a little
trade, duo to its position on the Sivas-
Ordu chaussie (Bte. 19). It is called
Koyurdu-hissar in the “ Jihan Numa,”
but there are no antiquities.
Tho uprter road (22 hrs.), which
koope on high ground to tho N., in
longer, but being easier and cooler is
more used. It runs for 1 hr. across
the plain, and after a long steep
ascent through wooded country de-
scends to Baili Chiftlik (5 hrs ). It
then continues over undulating
wooded country to Ermaniz (3 hrs ),
Danithmanli (4J hrs.), and A/an
(4 hrs.), whenco one path leads direct
to Koilu-hissar in 5} hro., and another,
in 7} hro., by Chardak and Bagirsak
Dere. An alternative route (23 hrs.)
runs from Bash Chiftlik over high
ground to the valley of the Melet
Irmak and Hamadieh Kassaba or Melet
( Melos ), and thence through dense
forest to Koilu-hissar. On leaving
this last place the Ordu-Sivas chaussee
(Bte. 19) is followed, for 1} hro., to
the point at which it crosses the
Lycus, whence there is a road to
Enderes (p. 48). The direct road to
Karn-his8ar kcojw to tho rt. bank of
the river, passing 1. the fine castle of
Koilu-hissar on a precipitous crag
commanding the deep gorge, and
running through Arpajtk (6) hrs.) to
Shabin Kara-hissar (5 lira.). See
Bte. 18.
ROUTE 17.
TOKAT — NIK8AR — UNIEH.
IlltS.
(Hunenck (Oomana Pontica ) . 2
Hlksar (Noocatxarea) H
Uuieh ( Oenoe ) .... is
A good chaussSe descends to the
Ye8hil Irmak, and ascends tho 1. l>unk
for 2 hrs., when it crosses the river by
a wooden bridge on stone piers.
Before reaching the bridge remains
of ancient brickwork and rubble
masonry, ombunking the river, and
the abutments of an ancient bridge,
are passed. And, after crossing to the
rt. bank, there appear 1. a huge mound
of formless debris, and rabble walls
of more modern construction. These
remains (os inscriptions built into tho
piers of the modern bridge tell us)
are those of Comana Pontica , famous,
like its Cappadocian homonym, for a
great sanctuary of the goddess Mo,
who was served here by G000 hieroduli.
The high priest was, even under
Borne, a semi-independent prince,
master of a considerable territory,
and rich from the favourable position
of his town and the proceeds of the
licentious rites of his goddess. The
temple lies, probably, under the mound
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 18. — Gumeneh — Zara.
47
awaiting an excavator. The district
in which it lies is called
Oumsnsk (2 hrs.). The chaussee
now leaves the river and passing
Bigerij with its Armenian Church,
which contains the highly venerated
tombstone of S. Chrysostom, reaches
the water parting between the Teshil
and Kelkit Irmaks in about 4 brs. A
shorter mule path follows the rt bank
(passing through Kizil Keui and
Kara-kaya ), and rejoins the chaussSe
near Omala, a large village containing
Roman milestones and other antiqui-
ties. From the watershed the chaussSe
descends near Oktap , and through
JJuntkm to the deep marshy valley of
tlie Kdkit Irmak, snot Lycus, whore
rice and tobeooo grow abundantly.
The road crosses the river by a weak
wooden bridge, nearly 800 yds. long,
and } hr. later enters
lfiksar (8 hrs.), see Rte. 1G. From
this place the chatuste is continued
through a wooded district with several
Greek villages, and over the Demirlu
JfeZ, about 4000 ft., in 18 hrs., to Unich
on the coast (Kto. 1).
liOUTK 18.
8IVA8-8H ABIN K AR A-HI88 AR—
KERA8UND.
HR*.
Tan (Zara) .... 12
Kccbtat S
Kndcrf* t
Sbsbfn Kwo-h lunar ( [Colonia ) 8
Tnmlor* T
Kmlrghan -111
Kerasund (Vhamacia) 7#
The ehaussts runs up the open,
fertile valley of the Kizil Irmak, keep-
ing about 2 m. from the rt bank, and
after 2 hrs. reaches a fine spring. Jt
then continues past Hama and Govdun
to Gavra, where is a large spring of
braekish water ; it then crosses a spur,
and in 1 hr. reaches
Koch-hissar (6 hrs.), alt. 4620 ft, a
largo Armenian village, clinging to,
and half excavated in the soft face
of a cliff. There are a few shops and
a good clean kahveh. On the 1. bank
of the river, opposite the village, is
Ktmis , anct. Camita, which gave its
name to Camisene, a district of ancient
Cappadocia ; no visible antiquities of
interest. The rood now keeps along
the crest of low hills, above a ohain
of marshy salt lakes, full of fish, and
in 2 hrs. roaches Yara-hi$$ar , where a
track from Yenije crosses from the L
bank by a wooden bridge. Some mom
salt lakes are passed, and the road
then runs up the valley to
Zara, Zara (6 lira.), alt. 4760 ft., a
small town, chiefly Armenian, at the
junction of the Kizil Irmak with a
tributary coming from the N.W. It
has a fair baxtir , aud fine now churcti ;
but tho hhSns are bad. The road is
here joined by a chausete from Divrih If,
distant 18 hre., which crosses the river
on a wooden bridge with stone piers,
and by a direct horse-track from
Shabin Kara-hissar via the Ulu Ohai
valley and Ashkhar.
Tho ahaussde now enters a wilder
and more broken country, in places
only just practicable for wheels, and
in 8 hrs. roaches a small khtin at
Artttrfa Keupri . Thenco it ascends
through pine forest to the watershed,
5050 ft, between the Halys and the
Iris. A cool upland valley, with
Greek and Circassian villages, is suc-
ceeded by a gradual descent to the
main stream of the Iris, here called
TotanU Su . The valley is one of
extreme beauty, and an excursion of
1| hrs. down it to Ittoshun is recom-
mended. Tho road now mounts tho
opposite slope to a khan, alt 5300
ft., opposite the large Armenian
village of
Xsohiut (6 hrs.). In the church-
yard is an interesting Greek inscrip-
tion of Justinian’B time, relating to
Digitized by L^ooQle
48
Route 18. — Enderes.
an imperial estate in the vicinity.
Here the road to Ordu (Rte. 19) turns
off to the 1., whilst that to Kara-hisaar
crosses the watershed, 5850 ft be-
tween the Iris and the Lycus to the
Greek village of l)ermen-tash (4 hrs.).
A shorter hone-track runs by Oetuuk
(Greek) to the edge of the Lycus
valley, where a magnificent view over
the deep cleft in which the Lycus
flows, nearly 4000 ft below, bursts on
the traveller. Over all the region
from Zara to the vicinity of Kara-
hissar is spread a Greek population,
representative of the pre-Moslem in-
habitants, which has retained its
faith and language. The latter, how-
ever, is now indescribably corrupt and
quite unintelligible to any one ac-
quainted only with ordinary modern
Greek. The race is industrious and
handsome, and maintains itself stoutly
against Government interference and
Kurdish depredations. From Derrnen-
tash the chaussee runs along the hill-
side high above the river to
Endorse (3 hrs.), alt 8670 ft, at
the W. end of the fertile plain, Athkhar
Ova. But a path may be followed
by Sis — an Armenian monastery, on
high ground to the rt. in which is a
church said to have been built by
Senekherim of Sivas in the 11th cent
Enderes, a pleasant little town with
several shops, a good kahveh , and
extensive and luxuriant gardens, is
the seat of a kaimnknm. It has taken
the place of Nicopdis, founded by
Pompey on the field of his great
victory over Mithridates (b.0. 65).
The site of the great Roman town
lies under and near a large Armenian
village, Purkh, 8 in. S.E. There are
extensive remains of the walls, and in
the houses are many columns, mould-
ings. &c. f and a few inscriptions, Greek
ami Latin. Here was a great military
and civil poet a centre-point of the
ancient road system. In the valley of
the Vlu Chat, S.E., was fought the
second battle of Nicopolis (b.c. 47), in
which Pharnaces defeated Cue8ur*8
lieutenant, Domitius Cal vinus; hence
he marched west to meet Caesar at Zela
(p. 44). At Eski-shehr, 1 ra. E. of
Purkh, is the site of an ancient for-
tress, perhaps of au earlier Nicopolis.
Remains of the Homan road from
Sebastea (Sivas) to Nicopolis may be
seen near Athkhar, in the valley of the
Ulu Oliai, through which the horse-
track from Zara runs. At Gemin in
the mountains, 4 hrs. from Enderes
towards Zara, an antimony mine is
being worked by an English company.
From Enderes the chaussde follows the
N. sido of the ABhkhar Ova, where a
road to Erzingan turns off to the rt..
and after crossing the Enderes Su and
Kelhit Irmah , ascends the valley to
Shabin Kara-hissar, Golonia (8 hrs.),
alt. 4860 ft, the ohief town of a
Sanjak. It is called Shabin, “ Alum,*'
from the alum mines at several places
in the vicinity, but its official name is
Kara-hissar Sharki , or “East** K.-
hissar. The Armenians call it Nilah
voli, a name transferred with the
bishopric from the ancient city near
Purkh. The town is well built
round the base of a lofty rook,
crowned by a castle built, according to
Moslem tradition, by the hero Forbad.
It was taken in 1473 by Muham-
mad II., and has been in Osmanli
hands ever since. On the principal
gate is a double-headed eagle. At
Die N. end is the keep, and near it
are the remains of a Byzantine church
with a long inscription. There are
largo rock-hewn cisterns for rain
water, and a subterranean passage
leading down to a spring. The Ar-
menian population is numerous and
rich, and there are a few Greek
families. There is a good bazar. As
Colonia the fortress was of great im-
{ xirtance in the frontier wars of the
ater Byzantine Emperors. Michael
Attaliota calls it Maw'ocastron . As a
station on the great land route from
Constantinople vid A mania or Tokat
to ErzerOm and Persia it has always
retained some importance.
Two roads lead from Kara-hissar
to Keros und. The old road (22 hrs.)
is a rough mule-track; it crosses a
plateau over 8600 ft. high, which ia
a favourito summer posture ground,
Digitized by ^.ooQle
49
Routes 19 , 20 . — Skahr-kisMa.
and after passing Kumbet, 5620 ft,
in a ?alley filled with vegetation of
interest to the botanist descends the
valley of the Ate Su to the coast 5 m.
E. of Kerasund. The ehauesfe (26
hrs.)> which runs through a well
watered country, and is well laid out
passes by Tansara, and ascends to
the celebrated alum mines of Lijessi
<8| hrs.), alt 5500 ft The mines
are ancient and were probably worked
by the Romans who used alum largely.
The forest that once clothed the
mountain has disappeared, the trees
having been out down for the process
used in extracting the alum. Hero
aro also the mines of argentiferous load
worked by an English oompany. From
the mines the road runs over the hills
to Tundere (8J hrs.), alt 5500 ft;
it thon desoends past Karinja to a
bridge over the Ak Su, near BashlaJc ,
whence there is an ascent of 2000 ft,
in 6 m., to KulaJe-Jcaya (7| hrs.). It
now descends gently to Aya Tepe,
and afterwards more rapidly to
Emirghan (4 hrs.), and then to Lappa,
and Kerasund (7| hrs.). See Rte. 1.
ROUTE 19.
8IVA8 — ZARA - ORDU.
Sivas.
Zara (Zara)
Koita-hlnar .
Kwli-eercn
Kllimvandl Kbin
Ordu (Ootfora).
Hits.
12
13
S
«*
10*
This road, the best from Sivas to
the coast follows Rte. 18 to Zara and
Xeehiut (18 hrs.); it thon runs
through wooded hills to a bridge over
tho Kelkit Irroak (p. 46), and thence
over the cliaussrfo (Rte. 16) to Xoilu-
hissar (7 hrs.). The road now crosses
to Xadi-suren (6 hrs.), on the head-
waters of the Melet Irmak (Melos),
[ Tnrhry .]
and thence runs over the Koch Bel
(4400 ft) to the bridge over the
Kara-geu* Su (4) hrs.), alt 8100 ft
From the bridge there is a gradual
rise to Xilimyandi Khin (4 hrs.), alti
4800 ft, and then a steady descent
through fine forest scenery to Kaliqjik
(5 hrs.) and Ordu, Cotyora (5} hrs.).
See Rte. 1.
ROUTE 20.
8IVA8-8HAHR-KI8HLA-KAI8A-
RIYEH.
Kaya-dlbl ....
Shah r*K Uhl* (Magellan**)
Gemerek ....
Tuz-hiasar
Kalaarljeh (Oaetarta)
This road (for tho chauntfe, see
below), whioh was of importance in
tho 11th and 12th centuries, follows
tho Samsfin ckautote, past a pretty
Soljftk tomb, for about 4 m.. and then
crosses the Kizil Irmak by a fine
stone bridge. After crossing, it mounts
a high ridge, from the summit of
which there is a good view over the
Sivas plain, and runs parallel to the
Kisil Irmak valley, over open undu-
lating ground, by Kaya-dtbi (8$ hrs.)
and Euyuk, whore it is joined by a road
from Kangal (Rte. 98) and Tunus, to
fihahr-kishla, Mayalassus 9 (5} hrs.),
a small Moslem town in tho oentre of
a oom-growing district. It is the
residenoo of the kaimakam of the
Tunus Kaza, in whioh there is a mixed
population of Turks, Kurds, Circas-
sians, and Armenians ; large numbers
of carpets (Kilim) arc made in the
villages. A path leads to a passage
over the Kizil Irmak at Top-aaach (Ar-
menian i). The old road now lies across
the plain, where the only fuel is dried
II us.
. 8 |
•
7
. 5*
8
Digitized by L^ooQle
50 Route 20 .-^Qemerek—Kai$anych
oow-dung (te*ek\ to Chaiutin and
Kaya-buncur, where a fine spring issues
from the rock; it then rune over a
bare oountry, with hamlets hidden in
the folds of the ground, and passing
Intanli and Kara-geul (Armenian),
rises sharply to
Gemtrek (7 hrs.), a large village,
chiefly Armenian, with a flourishing
Protestant community. [There is a
direct road from Gemerek to Yuzgat,
which crosses tho Kizil Irmak at
Shakrak Keupri. 1 The road continues
over low hills, wlence there are occa-
sional glimpses of the Kizil Irmak;
and in about 2 hrs. there is a fine view
of Mt Argaeus, of the Salt Lake, Tum
O etd, covered with white incrustation,
and of the fine, richly-coloured cliffs
on the rt. bank of the river. Tho
colouring is very brilliant, and not
unlike that of the hills round tho
Dead Bea. After a short descent, u
level, fertile plain is crossed to
Palas (4 lira), a Moslem village of
mud houses, where the salt collected
from the lako is stored. Prof. Kamsay
has suggested (A. M. 800) that Pulas
represents the bishopric Aipolioi, and
the Eulepa of the Antonine Itinerary,
but there are no ancient romaius. The
road now runs over tho plain, and
ascends to Tus-hissar (1 i hrs.). About
1| hrs. beyond Tus-hissar is Lale
Bel— a place connected by legend with
Julian the Apostate, and noted for a
terrible wind, called Qtumcj , which
resembles a 44 blizzard,” and has caused
the death of many travellers. Here
a deserted guard-house marks the
boundary between the Bivss and An-
gora vilAycts. About U krs. further
the old road is joined by the cltaussec,
and both roads cross the Saruinsak Su
by a stono bridge near Manama,
perhaps anct Sorpara, where there
are rock-hewn tomb*.
Tbs Sivas-Kaisariyth chauss6e fol-
lows a slightly different route from
Shahr-kishla. It passes about 1 m.
from Otmerek , and runs by the large
Tillage of Sarioghlan (rt) to Sultan
Khtin, which derives its name from
a magnificent rulnod khdn built in
1268. It then crosses a low ridge,
and leaving Sarumsaklu, where there
are fine flour mills with European
machinery, to the left, joins the
old road near the Bursama bridge.
After crossing the bridge the roads
again separate. The chatmsev jxishcs
some distance from Manjusun. The
old road runs through a district of soft
volcanio rock which, in places, has
been worn down by tho traffic to a
depth of 20 ft., and, passing Gain
Khun , where there are a good spring
and many rock-hewn tombs, reaches
Xanjufun (5 hrs.), from which tho
celebrated Armenian monastery of
Surp Garabed (p. 58) is about 1 hr.
distant. Here the plain is entered,
and the road passes Jirkala (rt.), Hu-
marlu , with rock excavations (1.), and
Germir (L). The last village, which
is almost wholly Greek, lies on both
sides of a ravine in which there are
good gardens. Some of the houses
are excavated in the soft rock, but
others are well built of stono, and
there are several largo churches. Tho
narrow streets, the projecting balconies
of the houses, and tho stone gargoyles
give it tho appearance of a mediaeval
town. For another hour the road
runs over tho plain, and then passing
some fine old Soljftk tombs, enters
Kaisariyeh, Mazaca — Eusebca —
Caesarea (3 hrs.), alt. 3500 ft. Mazaca
wus the residence of tho kin^s of
(tap|Nidociu, and its name is suid to
bo derived from Moeoch tho unccstor
of the Cuppadociuus. It was taken
by Tigranes, tho ally of Mithridatcs,
and its inhabitants deported to Ti-
ers noccrtu. It wus later called
EuscIjcu, and, afterwurds, on its ro-
foundution by Claudius, received tho
uumo of Cucaurca. In a.u. 268, tho
population then being 400,000, it was
takeu by Sapor and many of tho
people mussucrod. Cucsarca probably
adopted Christianity at au early date
(1 l'et. i. 1); Gregory 4 *thc Illumina-
tor" was taken to it as a place of
refuge (a.d. 257 X and there ho was
consecrated (302) first bishop of
Armenia. The Empress Helena, on
Digitized by L^ooQle
51
Route 20 . — Kaisariyeh
her wav to Jerusalem, stopped and
founded the monastery of the Taxiarch
( Yanar Task). J ulian, who had lived
with the monks and anchorites, and
know the strength of the now religion
in the place, hated it so much, after
his apostacy, that he took away the
name Caesarea and expunged it from
the list of cities. The whole city was
then Christian, and the great temples
of Zeus Poliouchos and Apollon
Patroos hod long been destroyed.
Caesarea wos the birthplace of
Basil, who became its bishop (870),
and successful ly resisted the attempts
of Valens to force Arianism on its
church. Justinian mndo it a fortress,
by drawing in the line of defence,
and rebuilding the walls, and placed
a strong garrison in it Here in 971
Phocas, when he rebelled against
John Zimiscos, assumed the title of
Emperor. In 1064 the town was
token and plundered by the Soljftk
Sultan Alp Arslan. The relics of
8. Basil were profaned, and amongst
tliw plunder carried away to Peraia
were tho doors, inenisted with gold
and pearls, of the church of 8. Basil.
In 1243 it was taken by tho Mongols,
and afterwards it passed into the
hands of tho Osmanlt Turks.
Old Caesarea, the Graeco-Roman
city, now called Bski-shehr , was about
1 m. S.W. of tho modern city, and its
ruins, — fragments of masonry, site of
stadium, tombs, Ac., — may bo seen
amidst the vineyards that cover the
slopes of a low spur of Argaeus.
Modem Caesarea had its origin in
the new city, or ecclesiastical centre,
containing churches, orphanage,
bishop’s palace, Ao, established by
Basil. It was tho walls of this town
that Justinian threw down when ho
re-fortified Caesarea. The walls were
rebuilt in their present form, partly
on old foundations, by Ala-ed-din Kai
Kulftid (121!) -86), and afterwords re-
stored in 1577.
The extent of Justinian’s city is
unknown, but it probably included
the churohes of which the ruins are
now outside the town. One of these,
of which the apse is visible, was ap-
parontly the old Church of S. Jtasu.
A sooond, possibly the Church of
& Mamas, has been completely de-
stroyed; and a third which had a
polygonal apse and three aisles was
tho Church of the Virgin in wliioh
Basil preached. By the apse of this
church is a slab of black basalt on
whioh corpses are laid whilst the
funeral service is read. About 1 m.
E. of the town are remains of the
Monastery of 8. Mercurius . in which
the death of Julian was foretold to
Basil; and 8. of this is Keurklar, a
grotto, with a number of incised
cresses, which is much visitod by the
Christians on the 3rd Sunday before
Easter. It possibly marks tho site of
the monastery dedicated by Basil to
the 40 martyrs.
Kaisariyeh lies in the plain, and is
still partly surrounded by walls. The
old castle, built on the foundations
of that of Justinian, has large
picturesque towers, and has, on cither
side of the entrance, a Scljftk lion in
bold relief. It was restored in 1897.
Tho most interesting building is the
Mosque, erected in 1238 by Houcn,
pronounced Houvani , — a companion
of Hajji Bairam, and founder of an
order of dervishes, — ou his return
from a pilgrimage to Mecca. A lino
portal gives access to tho haram,
which is surrounded by an arcado
with arches of “ horse-shoe ” form.
The jam? is simple in stylo and plan,
and resembles the Arab mosques of
8yria and Egypt. The tomb is an
octagonal building of tufa, richly
ornamented and supported on an
elegant base of white marblo; it
contains 3 marble cenotaphs* Ad-
joining the mosquo is a large medresse
with cloistered oourt, and cells for
students.
Tho town oontains many well built
houses, and tho Ixizftrt sro exten-
sive and woll supplied. Tho streets
are narrow, but occasional attempts
have been made to pavo and keep
them clean. The climate is not severe
in winter, but in summer it is very
hot, and everyone who con leaves tho
town to live amidst the vineyards attd
orchards on the slopes of Argneus.
s 2
Digitized by
Google
52
Route 20 . — Talas.
Slight earthquake* are common; the
last severe shock was in 1885. Cotas,
day tablet* with ennoiform inscrip-
tions, engraved done s, Ac., may occa-
sionally bo purchased at fair rates.
Outsido tho town aro a hoepital , uud
some hne octagonal tomb * apparently
Bel j Ok. Tlie surrounding plain l s
▼cry arid, but when irrigated is ex-
tremely productive. The vineyard*
and orchard* on the surrounding hills
are of great value.
The position of Kaisariyeb has
made it in all ages a place of great
commercial importance. As Mazaca
it was on a well-frequented trade
route from the Euphrates to Pteria
and Sinope ; and as Caesarea, it was
on the great Roman highway from
Ephesus to the Euphrates. It is still,
though its trade nos fallen off, tho
most important trade-centre in Eastern
A. Minor. Hoads radinto from it in
every direction, aud its pushing traders
distribute goods over a wide area.
Thero aro important taltpetre works
W. of tho city; pntdirma , “jerked
hoof,” of superior quality, is mode;
and cotton and wool tissues, carpets.
Aides, yellow berrie s, almond* , and
dried fruit are exported ; but the dis-
tributing trade is the priuci]»al occu-
pation of the people. Ptar * and
apricot* urc extensively grown on the
slopes of Argucus, and the old Turk-
ish proprietors take great pride in
their production. Mucli t oine is made,
and thut from Injc-su is highly es-
teemed. The volcanic soil and the
climate are admirably adapted for
vine-culture. Vine* grow luxuriantly
and yield abundantly, and when rail-
way communication is established
thero will Ihj an enormous increase
in the wine industry. Grope-treado
(jtel.mez) is largely made.
Kaisariy eh merchants retain a great
affection for their birthplace, and
return to it when success onablcs them
to settle down. The villages in the
vicinity, Tulas, Gerrair, lnje-su, and
Everck are full of hue houses, be-
longing to men whose names have
been well known in Constantinople,
Smyrna, aud even in European marts.
The experience gained by mixture
with Europeans should have advanced
the tone of society, but the travelled
Cappadooiau seems proud to re-adopt
his native costume and customs, and
except in the superior display of bis
houses, and porhaps a different style
of feeding, thero Li little visible trace
of Western influence. The Mosloms
are much divided amongst themselves
by the faction of rival houses, but
many of the landed proprietor^ are
wealthy men with liberal idoos.
Thero are a Greek bishop, who
resides at Zinjir-dere, and bolds a
very high position in the hierarchy
of his church; an Armenian arch-
bishop; a B. 0. bishop; and a Pro-
testant pastor, who is the official
representative of the Protestant com-
munity. Caesarea, the headauarters
of tho prosperous American Mission
in Cappadocia, was first occupied as
a mission station in 1854. The church
was built with funds raised in England
and Scotlaud, and was dedicated in
1878. There aro a High School,
Kindergarten, Ac. In 1881 u school
was opened by the Jesuits.
[There is a road from Siva* to
Kaitariyeh by the right bank of the
Kizil Jrmah , which is longer than that
by tho left bank. It passes through
Serai (7 lire.). Karaja-eurcn (8 hre.),
and Chepne (8} hre.); and, crossing
the river by tho Shahrak Keuyri (3J
hre-X runs through Palo* (4 hre.) to
Kaisariych (9) lira.).]
Environs. One hr. 8.E. of Kuiss-
riyeh, at the mouth of a narrow gorge
in tho volcanic rock, ut the foot of
Ali Dagh , is Talas, a flourishing
village, with a large nml influential
Protestant community, a church, with
native |mstor, and a school for girls
conducted by members of tho Ameri-
can Mission. Talas was a flourish-
ing place in Byznntino times, and
was the home of 8. Saba, tho founder
of the oelebratcd monastery neur
Jerusalem. On Ali D., near Talas,
is a church of S. Bat if, held sacred by
Greeks and Armenians. N. of Talas
is tho Greek village of Tsvlasun, with
its houses |«irtly rock-hewn and partly
Digitized by e^ooQle
Route 20 . — Evereh
63
of masonry clinging to the sides of a
deep ravine.
The Greek Monastery of 8. John
the Baptist is about 4 hra. S.E. of
the town at the large village of Zinjir-
dere, which is reached by a path that
runs between Talas and Ali D.
There are a good oollege, and a school
for girls. Tne monastery, which is
the residence of the Greek bishop,
contains relics of S. John ; and it was
here probably that the Metropolitan
Marcns was barbarously murdered by
Gagig, last King of Armenia. The
Armenian Monastery of 8nrp Garabed,
** the Forerunner,” is at Evkere, about
4 hrs. N.E. of Kaisariyeh, and is the
country residence of tbe Armenian
archbishop. According to tradition
it was founded by 8. Leontius, bishop
of Caesarea, who here const crated
8. Gregory “the Illuminator.” The
monastery is picturesquely situated,
clinging to the side of the hill ; and
threo poplar-trees standing above, on
the crest of the ridge, are very con •
spicuous. There is little of interest
in the monastery, but it is a favourito
resort of the Armenians, and largo
numbers of pitorims visit it during
the ffites of 8. John the Baptist,
whoso tomb is shown to the credulous.
In the vicinity are large numbers of
pigeon-houses. In the same vulley
is the Monastery of 8. Daniel, in
which is the tomb of Ashin, or Osliin,
King of Lesser Armenia (1308 — 20).
The cells of the monkB are excavated
in the tufa. The Greek Monastery
of Yanar Task, with the Church of
the Taxiaroh (Archangel), is } hr.
from Evkere. The church and
monastery were rebuilt in 1835 on
the site of the buildings said to have
been ereoted by the Empress Helena.
Over one of the windows of the ohurch
is the translucent stone, a piece of
tapis epecularu, from which the vil-
lage and monastery take their name.
The lectern , with inlaid work of
tortoise-shell and mother-of-pearl, is
deserving of notice; About J m. from
Yanar Tash is Misak, or Hires, with
a rook-hewn chapel dedicated to 8.
Gregory, and a subterranean spring
in which he is said to have been
baptized.
The low swampy ground which,
according to 8trabo, King Ariarathes
converted into a lake by damming the
Biver Melas, now Kara Su, lies about
5 m. W.N.W. of the city. The Kara
8u issues from a marsh into which
the flood waters of the Sarumsok 8q
fp. 50) flow from the N.E. ; and the
dam must hare boon at or near tho
head of the ravine (Rto. 21). through
which the river runs off to the Kizil
Irmak. In summer the Sarumsak is
oonflned to its bed and joins the Kara
8u, where it issues from the marsh.
Ascent of Argaeut. Tho most fa-
vourable time of year for the ascent is
from the 1st to the 81st of August,
and the best point from which to moke
it is Evorek on tho 8. side of tho
mountain. If tho traveller returns to
Kaisariyeh the excursion will take
8, or, preferably, 4 days. Evcrek can
be reached in 10 hrs. by a road ranking
through Zinjir-dere, or in 8) hrs. by a
direct road which, after passing the
double cone of the Ali D. (I.), alt 6200
ft, rises sharply over lava and basalt
to a plateau oovered with gardenb
and vineyards. After 4 hra., an exten-
sive Stony upland, whence there is a
good view of the snow-fields on tho E.
side of the mountain, is reached ; and
then, after crossing the highest point
7500 ft, there is a long wearisome
descent to
Brerek (84 lira), alt 4100 ft The
village is built on lavs and has a copi-
ous spring of limpid water, which is led
off to irrigate tne extensive gardens.
Here the first night is passed and a
guide for the accent can bo obtained.
Tbe Rev. H. F.Tozer and Mr. Crowder,
who made the ascent in 1879, rode
some distance up the mountain and
took with them a baggage horse to
carry a tent camp-beds, nnd provi-
sions. They left Everek at noon, and
“ ascended between some of the lowct
craters, first gradually, and then more
steeply, in : the direction of the highest
peak.” After 2 hrs. they reached a
Digitized by ^.ooQle
54
Route 21. — Kirskchr.
copious spring,— the lust water on
the mountain ; and 2 lira later, after
ascending a steeper slope, they halted
for the night, on the mountain side, at
on altitudo of 8000-9000 fL It is pos-
sible to ride higher, as Hiuniltou did
in 1837. Leaving their horses at tbo
bivouac, Messrs. Tozer and Crowder
started at 2 a.m. (August 2nd), the
thermometer being 28° Ft, and after
2 lira, of moderately rapid ascent, up
a gully which winds down from the
higher peaks, reached the first patch
of snow. Hero began a climb of
1600 ft, which occupied 2 hrs. more,
and was as hard a piece of work as
either of them had ever experienced,
“ for the angle was extremely steep,
and the face of the mountain was
covered with loose stones, and masses
of fallen rock equally untrustworthy
to the foot" In ordinary seasons, the
gully by which they ascended is half
lull of snow, and there is then much
risk from falliug stones which become
detached from the hardened snow
when softened by the heat of the sun.
At 6 a.m. they “ reached the ridge,
where there is a long arete of snow,
joining two sets of summits, at the
head of a vast snow-slope on the N.
side, which forms a conspicuous object
when seen from KaisariyeL” By
cutting a few steps in the frozen snow
they reached a point some 200 ft.
higher, at the base of the final peak,
which rises about 50 ft. above, and is
perpendicular and only to be ascended
with the aid of a rope. The altitude
of the highest point is 13,100 ft.
The view from the summit is very
extensive. “ But far the most remark-
able feature was the mountain itself,
for the lofty pinnacles of red porphy-
ritio rock, rising from among the snows
around and beneath us, veritable
aiguilles, were as wouderful a sight
as can well be conceived. The crater
or craters, which once occupied the
summit, are too much broken away to
be eusily traceable, the best marked
being that which faoes east; but below,
all round the base of the mountain, is
a belt of volcanic cones." The rocks
on the summit are, in places, perfo-
rated with ancieut human habitations”
and out* of them had rude niches hol-
lowed in the sides. The descent to the
bivouac took 2 hrs., and thence they
returned to Everck.
From Evorok the traveller can re-
turn to Kaisariyeh, or oontinue his
journey by Develi Kara-hissar to
Nigdeh (Bte. 55) ; by Injesu to Nev-
shehr (Bte. 58) to Ferakdin (Bte. 37 ;
remarkable “ Hittite ” relief), and
thence over the Gez Bel to 8hahr
(Comana); or by Funtsh to Adana.
A pleasant and interesting Excursion
is to descend to Oereme, where are
the remains of a Byzantine ohurch
and other ruins, without returning to
Everek, and to complete the tour of
the mountain by passing through the
villages of Kitili, Kulpak , SheiUi
Choban, Surtme , Kizileuren , HajiUar ,
— all lying on the mountain-side, hi
Kaisariyeh.
ROUTE 21.
ANGORA— KIR-§HEHR-KAI8ARIYEH.
HUB.
Cheahme Kcupri (Rte. 11) . . lot
Kur&nji 104
Kir-sbshr ( Mocissu »-J tuti niamo-
H«JJI*BekUah .* .* ?{
Ktlttuljeb (Caesarea) . let
From Angora Bte. 11 is followed
to Cheshme Keupri (16} hrs.), and
for 2} hrs. beyond the bridge. The
lvir-shehr road then turns off to the rt,
and, passing through a fine corn-
growing district with several villages,
crosses the watershed between the
Kizil and Delije Irmaks 1} m. before
rouohing Xuranji (10} hrs.), a small
Moslem village on the edge of the
So/ular Ovasi. The Kurt Bel is now
crossed to the plain of
Xir-shehr, Mocissus-J ustinianopol is
(CJ hrs.), alt. 3330 ft., a large town of
Digitized by
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55
Route 21 . — Mujur — Hajfi Bektash.
mad houses on a tributary of the
Kisil Irm&k. It has extensive gar-
dens, and within it is an artificial
mound, about 50 ft high, with steep
sides, on the top of which there is a
large building— a mound of Semi-
ramis, similar to that of Tyana. There
is a fine mosque, with minaret, of the
Seljflk period; and the tomb of Melik
Ghazi, with an imdret, deserves a
visit. The town was partially de-
stroyed by fire in 1876, and has uever
quite recovered its prosperity. The
bazdr is poor, but Kir-shehr gives its
name to the rugs that are made in
large numbers in the district. There
are several TeJcl res of various orders of
dervishes, and barracks for tho
troops. The Christians are principally
Armenian merchants from Kaisanyeh.
Mocissus , an insignificant town on
the Tavium-Archelais road, rose to
importance when the direct road from
Aucyra to Caesarea w us constructed,
and tho longer road bv Parnassus on
the 1. bank of tho H ilys fell into
disuse. Justinian adorned it with
churohos, hospices, and baths ; named
it Justinianopolis ; and mado it tho
metropolis of a large division of
Cappadocia. In the Byzantine period
it was one of the chief cities of Cappa-
docia, and Kir-shehr now holds a
similar position. At Uch Ayah, about
5 hrs. N. of the town, are ruins, pos-
sibly of a temple. There is a hot
rprina near the cemetery close to
Kir-snehr ; and at Kara Kurt, 2} hrs.
distant, there are very hot sulphur
springs. From Kir-shelir there is an
easy road to Kessik Keuvri (3J hrs.),
a flue bridge over the Halys, whence
there are roads 8. to Ak-seiai, anct.
ArchdaU (Rte. 54); and S.E. up the
Halys valley to Tuz Keui (salt mines),
Yaropsun, and Nev-shehr (p. 169).
The Kaieariyeh rood, 3J m. beyond
Kir-shehr, passes the mound of Oeul -
kissar ■, and, in 4 hrs., reaches Xqjur,
a large village noted for the rugs and
saddle bags made in its vicinity. It
has an old Greek church; and there
are extensive gardens, and several
springs. Here the chaussie keeps to
the 1. and runs through Yeni Yapan ,
Topaklu , and Ummst-dede to Tek-
geuz Keupri (see below). The bridle
path continues over a a uninteresting
oountry and past some rock-hewn
houses, to
Hsjji Bektash (7| hrs.), all 4800
ft, the seat of a mudir , and residence
of the Superior of the Hajii Bektash
order of dervishes who lives in a
Tekke attached to the Zidret, in
which the founder is buried. Close
to the village is a large artificial
mound, marking an ancient site, pro-
bably that of the bishopric Doara
{A. M., p. 297). The limestone rocks
in the vicinity are full of fossil*, sup-
posed to have been made by Hmji
Bektash. The founder of the cele-
brated order of dervishes is said to
have been a native of Nishapftr, and
to have lived in a hollow in the rock,
where his footprint is now shown. He
was intimately connected with the
foundation of the Janissaries, and
gave them their name. M Yenicheri,”
his blessing, a standard — a white
cresoent on a rod ground — and the
two-edgod sword of Omar. The
Janissaries were affiliated to the
Bektash dervishes. Bight dervishes
prayed day and night for their suooess,
and the head of the Order was always
Colonel of the 99th Regiment. With
the destruction of the Janissaries
(1826) the dervishes lost their politi-
cal influence, most of their property
was confiscated, and they were only
allowed to exist on sufferance.
The tekke is managed much like
a monastery; travellers reoeive free
board and lodging for three days;
the guest rooms are well kept ; and
the dervishes are hospitable and cour-
teous. The superior is elected by the
mombers, and his office is believed to
oarry with it power to heal skin
diseases. He wears a black dress,
whilst the dervishes wear a long white
coat, and the to/— a white cap, not
unlike in shape that of a Greek
priest. The dervishes take vows of
oelibacy, and are good gardeners.
The tUrbe of Hajii Bektash oontains
his tomb, covered with rich cloths,
Digitized by ^.ooQle
56
Route 22 ,-
the bonuer he brought from Khoras-
ean, and many votive offerings. In
the mosque adjoining the thrbe are
the tombs of the dervishes, arranged
in formal rows, which present a
marked oontrast to the picturesque
oonfusiou of the tombs of the Mcvlevi
dervishes at Konla (p. 183).
2} lira. beyond Hajji Bektosh an
araha- road runs rt to Avanos— a vil-
lage which supplies many of the
Sultan’s servants — and Nev-shehr.
The road then passes through a red
sandstone district to Oenisin (4} hrs A
a Moslem village clinging to both
sides of a small ravine. Many of
the houses with their stables, store-
rooms, Ac., are either partly or wholly
rook-hewn. On the hills above are
several tumuU . About 1} m. further
is the partly rock-hewn village of
Orta Keui . Here the ara&a-road
keens to the L, whilst the horse-track,
in | hr., passes Qoynuk, and 4} hrs.
beyoud it reaches a fine spring and
numerous rock-hewn houses, licuco
there is u shuro rough descent, of 4 hr.,
past a ruined costlo, Ahmad Kalch,
to tho Kizil Irmak about 4 m. below
Tek-geus Keupri (C hrs.), a fino
bridge of single span, built by Mu-
hammad II., near , the head of a gorge
through which the river runs. On
tho rt. bank, near tho bridge, are hoi
sprinas and baths. About 4 hr. after
crossing the bridge the road passes
OhifUil f, on the Kara Su, anot. Mela s,
anil then follows the stream for 2 lire,
to the head of the ravine in the basalt,
through which it runs down from the
Kaisurivoh plain. The dam con-
structed by Ariarathes, to form a lake
on the plain, must liave been at this
point, but uo traces of it remain. A
few yards further the Kara Su is
crossed by an old stone bridge, of 7
arches, over which the road to Injo-su
runs ; and hence the way lies over
tho swampy plain to Anbar and
Xaisariyeh (5} lira.). See Rte. 20.
-Ahbunar,
ROUTE 22.
CONSTANTINOPLE TO ANGORA, BV
RAIL.
The journey takes two days, and
the night is passed at Eski-shehr,
where there is fair accommodation.
Luncheon for tho first day should bo
carried from Constantinople, and for
the sooond from Eski-shehr.
For the line as far as Eski-shehr,
Dorylaeum (1944 m.), see Rte. 3,
Handbook to Constantinople, do. On
leaving Eski-shehr the line runs for
nearly 100 m. down the valley of tho
Pursak Su, anct Tembris, and crosses
that river three times before its junc-
tion with the Sakarfa. Tho first
station is Ak-bunar (2089 in.), whero
there tint u fino spring and an inscrip-
tion. N. of Ak-bunar arc metrschaum
mines ( Handbook to Constantinople ,
p. 119), which deserve a visit
From 3 to 4 m. beyond Ak-bunar
the line passes close to the shapeless
ruins of Kara-euyuk , which probably
mark tho site of Midaeum , where the
son of Pompey was taken prisoner by
the generals of M. Antony, and after-
wards put to death. The next station
is Alpi Keui (219 in.), whioh takes its
name from a small village, on the
opposite bank of the river, in which
there are a few inscriptions. Lower
down the broad open valley are Beylik
Akhur (232| in.), Sari Keui (252 m.),
Bioher (2684 m.), Basilar (281} m.)—
the station for Sivrihissar (p. 17),
and Beylik-keupri (2904 m.), where
there is a substantial railway bridgo
across tho Sokaiia. E. of tho rivor
tho lino runs through a fertilo district
to Folatli (3024 m.), Mali Keui
(3244 m ')> Sinjan Keui (3424 m.)
— the station for lstanos, and Angora
(8584 m.). For Angora, see Rte. 9.
Digitized by L^ooQle
67
Route 23, — Kutaya — Liyen.
ROUTE 23.
BRU8A— KUTAYA— AFIUM-KARA-
HI88AR.
1I1IS.
B&aarJIk (Rte. 9) ... 17
Purdurkor S
Kutaya (Cbtyasum) . .6
Dover 9
Afltim Kara-htamr ( Aenxnus ) . 8
The araba-road follows that to
Eski-shehr (Rte. 9), through Aine-
geul (9 lira) and Basariik (8 hrs.),
to the vicinity of the bridge over the
Kara 8u (p. 16). Here it turns S.
up a narrow valley and passes ovor
high ground, well wooded with oak
and pine, to Durdurkar (5 hrs.), a
small Moslem village of log houses,
with somo overturned columns nml
tlio remains of a Uyziintitio church.
The road onward lies portly through
pino forest and partly through a ricli,
well-cultivated district to
Kutaya, Cotyaeum (6 lira.), alt
8160 ft, situated on the lower slopes
of a hill that is crowned by the nuns
of a large castle. Cotyaeum — the
city of Gotys — according to one aooount
the birthplace of Affisop, was the
largest and richest city of Phrygia
Salutoris. From the second century
onwards it was the seat of a marked
typo of Christianity, and undor the
Iconoclast Emperors it was made an
Archbishopric. In 1182 it was taken
by the Soljftk Turks, and when the
8eli<lk Empire broke up (circ. 1300)
it became an independent province,
ruled by Kermian and his descen-
dants. In 1390, when it passod into
the hands of the Osmanli Sultan,
Bayexid I., it was an important plaoe
with a palace, mosques, medr eases,
batlis, Ac., but in 1402 it was sacked
and burned by TimOr. The to#n
must, however, have soon recovered,
for in 1432 it was governed by a son
of Murad II., and the castle, with its
triple walls, was oooupied. Kutaya
was the furthest point reached by the
Egyptian army, in its advance on
Constantinople (1833); and Ibrahim
Pasha's camp at the hot springs of
Yunfe, 8 hrs. distant, was the soene
of the negotiations that followed the
intervention of the European Powers.
The modem town contains little of
interest; the ancient town probably
lay within the walls of tho castle, but
the only visible remains are those of
a Bysantine church. Kutaya was
formerly oelebrated for its potterie s,
and ad attempt, partially successful,
has been made in recent years to
revive the industry. FViift— pears,
apples, grapes, Ac. — grows well, and
the plums and Morelia cherries are
highly esteemed throughout the
country. About | of the population
is Christian, the Greeks being most
numerous. Near the town are largo
barracks.
The bridle-path from Brftso, which
in summer. It loaves tho plain of
Aine-geul at Harnmand i, and after
asoending through a magnifioent
beech forest, runs past several guard-
houses and the village of Arslanli to
Kutaya.
There are two ar aba- roods onward
to Addin Kara-hissar, the old one by
Dover, and the new one, passing near
Altin-tash ; (1) the first runs up the
valley of the Pursak , and in 2 hrs.
crosses that river by a bridge near
Arra K ., whence Kumbet (p. 141) can
l>o reached in 10 hrs., via Ak-olnk and
Kirk-ogha (Kirka). It theu con-
tinues over undulating ground, pass-
ing an andont site, and some groups
of rock-hewn tombs to the village of
Dover (9 hrs.). The road now lies
through rocks that assume fantastic
forms, and ofTer great facilities for the
excavation of houses and tombs, and
in 1 hr. reaches liyen, a small village
close to a most remarkable group of
Phrygian monuments (Rte. 45). The
road continues past Bey K. t and a
tumulus ( inscription, p. 135) that ap-
parently marks the line of the Persian
Digitized by
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58
Route 24 . — Kirmasli Kassaba .
“ Royal road ” to the hot springs and
bath at Kaili-geul Hammam (4 hrs.).
A mile from the bath is a spring of
slightly aperient mineral water, not
unlike seltzer water in taste. A
narrow ravine is now desoendod to a
wide plain, over which the road runs,
(passing near Ambanax , anot. Ampun ,
through whioh Alexius Comnenus re-
tired when pressed by the Turks in
11 1C), to Ajlum Karaltissar (4 hrs.).
See Bte. 44.
(2) The new road crosses the Pursak
Su some distanoe higher up, and
running through Tenije (4 hrs.),
passes 1 m. E. of Altin-tash (5 hrs.),
a small quaint village with a tekhe,
fragments of old marbles, and inscrip-
turns , — possibly the anct. Soa, where
there was a priestly college, Ben-
neitae, of Zeus Bcnnius ( A . M. 1 1 1).
The valley of Altin-tash belonged to
the tribe Prupenisseis, and the villages
N. and W. of Altin-tash abound in
inscriptions. From Altin-tash the
road continues over the plain to Eirct ,
and descends a long narrow ravine to
tho broad valley at the 8. side of
which is Afium Karahissar (9 hrs.).
ROUTE 24.
BRU8A — RHYNDAOU8 VALLEY-
KUTAYA — AZANI— U8HAK.
HRS.
Akchelar 6
Kirmasll 7
YenI Keui 6
Itayjlk (ncuir ifadriuni) .111
Ta valuta li 14
Kataya (Cutyaeum) ... 8
Chavdir Hissar (Atani) 81
Gedix (Cadi) . 4 |
Uxtaak 8
This route, as far as Kutaya,
traverses one of the most picturesque
districts of A. Minor. On leaving
Brfisa it passes through Chekirgeh and
runs W. to Akohelar (6 hrs.), near
the E. end of the AbuUiont Qetd ,
anct. Artynia Lhnne , a pretty lake
with several islands, on one of which
is AbuUiont, anct. ApdUonia. It now
follows the S. shore of the lake to
Kara-oghlan K. % and then crosses un-
dulating ground to
Kirmasli Kassaba (7 hrs.), a small
Moslem town, on the banks of the
Edrenos Chai, anct. Rhyndacus, near
which are the remains of a Byzantine
cAstle. Here possibly was the By-
zantine Aorata , near which the troops
of Alexius Comnenus, under Kamyt-
zes, were defeated by the Seljhks in
1113; whilst the shapeless ruins at
Harrmandi , 1 hr. N.W., mark the site
of llteia Qerme. The road now ruus
up the valley of the Rhyndacus to a
gorge, abovo which are the ruins of
the castle of Kestelek, well situated
to comniaud tho pass, aud probably of
Byzantine origin. Higher up tho
valley at Teni K. (G hrs.) there is a
ferry by which travellers cross to the
L bank. The road then ascends the
wooded hills, from whioh there are
striking views of the river running
between high limestone cliffs, ana
passes through a wild, hilly district,
partly clothed with pine forest, in
which the scenery is almost Alpine
in character, to the small Moslem
village
Sagirlar (6 hrs.) alt. 2390 ft. The
road now descends to the Edrenos
Chai, opposite Deli-baba , on the rt.
bank of the river, here crossed by a
wooden bridge. Ou a low rocky hill
on the L bank are the ruins of a large
castle, and, close to them, the remains
of two Btone bridges, and a rock-hewn
road mark the line of the direct
road from Prusa to Hadrian!, at the
foot of a hill 1} in. S.W. The ruins
of Hadriani consist of part of a large
building of white marble, apparently
a gymnasium, of which the wall is in
places 30 ft high; a gateway; the
remains of two temples— one Doric, the
other Ionic ; and numerous fragments
Digitized by ^.ooQle
59
Route 24 . — Bryjilc — Ohavdir Hismr.
of columns, oornices, Ac. One hour
from the rains is
Beyjik (54 hrs.), where several
Greek inscription*, brought from
Hadrian!, have been built into the
walls of the mosque. Near Beyjik
are rieh Chrome mines. A steep
ascent through beautiful and romantic
scenery leads to a guard-house, 3700
ft, 5 m. short of Harmanjik (7 hrs.),
alt 2380 ft, in a valley on the L
bank of the Edrenoe ChaL An alter-
native route, by which the fine scenery
of the gorge of the river can be seen,
crosses to Haidar ( inscription ) on the
rt bank and ro-ernss^s to Hartnanjik.
The track now strikes S.E. across a
hilly country with fine forests and
occasional hamlets of log huts; and
in about 4} hrs. passes some sepul-
chral chamber s cut in the rocks, Deltkli-
tash , to the L of the road. They
appear to be Phrygian in diameter,
but only one is tolerably perfect
After descending a narrow valley, the
llhyndaeus is crossed to Maimul, at
the head of the fine gorge through
which the river flows. Hero are
many marble fragments of ancient
architecture, several inscriptions , and
a fountain containing large fish that
ate not allowed to be caught About
1 m. further is the largo well-built
town
Tavsbanli (7 hrs.), standing on the
slope of a hill that dominates an ex-
tensive plain. There are numerous
sepulchral monuments built into
fountains, and the walls of streets;
but the name of the ancient town
from whioli they came is unknown.
Tavsbanli was of importance during
the early Turkish period as a station
on the great roaa from Kutaya by
Belat, and Balikisri to the Dardanelles
tfnd Gallipoli. Roods lead from it
up the valley of the Rbyndacus and
by Assarlar, in 10 hrs. ; and over the
high ground on the 1. bank of the
river, in 8 hrs., to Asani.
The road E. runs by Euren K., and
the warm baths of Yunje (p. 57),
noted for their efficacy in cases of
gout and paralysis, to Kutaya (8 hrs.),
see Rte. 23. From Kutaya tho road
leads up a glen filled with gardens
and fruit-trees, and through woods of
fir and oedar to an ancient site ; and
then, after passing the crest of the
ridge, 4860 ft, descends to Hajji K.
ana
Chavdir Hissar, Atani (8J hrs.),
alt. 3480 ft., situated on the banks of
the Rhyndaeus, in a rich, fertile
plain. Asani is historically unknown.
Stephanos mentions that Euphorbus
was the first priestly dynast of the
temple, and was appointed because he
taught the proper method of sacrifice.
He prescribed the saorifloe of the
hedgehog (If tv) and of the fox (obarour),
hence the name of the city, which
ought strictly to be 'Ktovdrovr. The
Zeus of Azani is doubtless of the
same character as tho Zeus of 8oo, of
Dorylaeum and Nacoleio, and was
apparently the god of the European
tribe which overran Phrygia about
900 b.c. or even earlier, and adopted
the religion of Cybole and muon of
the civilisation and oustoms of the
old or race, among whom it settled as
a conquering caste ( A . M. 147).
On a slight orainenoo in the centre
of the town stands the graoeful lonie
temple which, when first explored by
M. Texior, was one of the most perfect
and beautiful in A. Minor. Since
that time it has suffered much; but
it is still of great beauty, and several
of the interesting public documents
inscribed on its walls remMin. About
} m. from the temple, on the slope of
a hill, is the theatre, fairly well pre-
served ; and in front of, and imme-
diately connected with it, though at a
lower level, is tho stadium, of which
part is well preserved. The view
from the theatre, looking in a direct
Hoc over the stadium to the temple,
must have been very fine. Behind
the theatre, on slightly rising ground,
are numerous fragments of sarcophagi.
In the cemetery, and in the walls of
the houses and enclosures of the
village, are manv mutilated inscrip-
tions , chiefly sepulchral, and fragments
of sculpture.
In 8} hrs. from Asani the road
Digitized by ^.ooQle
60
Route 25 .—Qediz — Ulubad ,
passes a fountain built out of old
material (inscription); And it then
runs through a pretty pass and crosses
a ridge, 4120 ft, to
Oedis, Cadi (4) hra.), picturesquely
situated in a deep hollow surrounded
by precipitous hills, and intersected
by a small but rapid river, which
escapes through a narrow gorge. On
the E. side the town is hemmed in by
lofty volcanio rocks, extending from
N. to 8. in a semicircular form like
the rim of a crater. The oontrast
between the black basalt aud the
white rocks round it is very striking.
Cadi, derived from Cadys, a Lydo-
Phrygian hero, was a Macedonian
colony but, excepting blooks of marble,
the only antiquity is an inscription
built into the bridge over the river.
The Gediz Kata is noted for the good
quality of its valonea acorns, and its
opium.
On leaving Qediz the road descends
tire valley of the Gediz Chai , and in
1} hrs. crosses the Hermus by a
bridge. The river, here deep and
unfordable, rises in the vast mass of
the Murad Z>., anct. Mt. Dindymus ,
sacred to the great goddess Cybele.
The araba-road now lcoeps down the
valley, and, winding round the lower
slopes of the Kizil 1)., reaches Ushak
in 10 hrs., whilst tho bridle-path
ascends at once through a fine forest
of valonea oak and crossing the moun-
tain, 4450 ft., descends through vine-
yards and gardens to
Ushak (8 hrs.). See Rte. 44.
ROUTE 25.
BRU8A- BAUKI8RI— BERQAMA.
UBS.
A bull loot (Apollonia) .... 8
Mubulfch (MiUlopolit) ... 6
Sasurlu 8
lialikiari 7
Kercseu 81
8oma (Germs) 6
Bergsm* (Pergamum). ... 7
Three hours after leaving Britan the
TJlftsr Chui 9 anct. Odrytse •, is crossed
by a stone bridge ; aud tho way thence
lies partly through hilly country to
Bash JL (0 hrs.), and
Abulliont, Apollonia (2 hrs.), tho
Theotoltia of the Councils of 680 and
692. The town stands on a small
island at the N.E. end of a lake of
the same name, and is connected by a
long wooden bridge with a narrow
promontory. On the island portions
of the walls remain ; and on tno pro-
montory a massive wall of defence,
the foundations of small buildiugs,
probably tombs, and tho position of
the theatre. There are a few inscrip-
tions. On a small island, Kiz Adasi ,
near tho town are tho remains of
ancient walls. The lake, Artynia
LimnSy is about 100 sq. m. in extent,
and is noted for its fish. It is 20 to
25 ft. deep, and in summer, when
much of it dries up, it is nearly
everywhere fordable. The road fol-
lows its N. shore to Issiz Khdn , where
tho track from Mudania, 9 hrs.
distant, comes in ; and { hr. further
is u long wooden bridge over the
Rhyndacus, about 200 yds. below its
exit, as a deep muddy river navigable
by steam launches, from the lake.
On the 1. bank of the river is
Ulubad, Lopadium (4 hrs.), an im-
portant fortified post, protecting the
bridge, which is frequently mentioned
in the Byzantine wars. There are
considerable remains of the walls and
Digitized by
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Route 25 . — Susurlu — Balikisri.
61
towers of the fortress. On slightly
rising ground, between the Rhyndaous
and Macestus, and about 8 m. from
their junction, is Muhalieh, Milcto-
polis (2 hrs.), a large town with
several mosques and kh&ns. An un-
interesting road, partly over the
swampy plain, and partly oyer low
hills, leads tbenoe to a bridge over the
Macestus at
Susurlu, properly Su-stgirli . “place
of buffaloes ” ( 8 hrs.). a small village
on tlio 1. bank of the river. Two
large khdns, with fine doorways, attest
its former importance as a station on
the old Turkish lust-road to Smyrna,
which ran by Mendokhora (8 hrs.),
Kurugeuliik (8 hrs.), Baah-kolombe
(5 hrs-X Balamftt (8 hrs.), aDd Ma-
nisa (8 hrs.). After ascending the
valley for 1 hr. the rood turns to the
rt, — to the valuable Boracite mines,
worked by an English company. The
miners are nearly nil Circassians, and
the ore is carried down the river to
the island of Kalolimno , where it is
shipped to England and France. To
facilitate the transport the Boracite
company have canalised the Macestus
for about 70 ni. for steamers drawing
4 ft. of water. The hills are now
crossed by an easy pass, in which is
bemir-kapu Devrend, to the plain of
Balikisri (7 hrs.), alt. 575 ft., a
largo town on rising ground above
the fertile valley. It is the centre of
a fair trade in opium, tilk, and ce-
reals. There are several mosques, and
nearly one-fourth of the population is
Christian, the Armenians being most
numerous. Prof. Ramsay identities
it with lladrianoutherai — a towu
founded by Hadrian after a lucky
boar hunt, and important in late
Byzantine and early Muhammadan
times as the fortress and bishopric of
Akhvraous — but thisplace was perhaps
at Kebsfid (p. 62). It passed into the
hands of the Osmanlis after the defeat
of the Boljfik ruler of Knrasi in 1836.
serven, and there is a steady ascent to
Kurugeutftk (7 hrs.), a large village
in an upland plain. A well-wooded
ridge is then crossed to Bash-kclembe
(5 hrs.), and the read continues past
some rock-hewn tombs and over easy
ground to Ak-hissar (5 hrs.). Bee
Rte. 81.]
There are two roads from Balikisri
to Bergamo. The first runs 8. over a
well-cultivated plain to Xessrven (1|
hrs.), and then crosses the Utunja />.,
— noted for its fine forests, and the
excellent pasture of its yatlcu , — to
Xeresen (7 lira.), alt 980 ft. The
road now descends through hilly,
wooded country to the valley of tlio
Bakir Chat , anct Caicus, and Soma
(5 hrs.), whence Rte. 81 is followod
to Bergamo (7 hrs.).
The second road crosses tho Kara-
gedik D., 1300 ft, and, keeping S. of
the silver mines at Balia, which woro
worked in ancient times, runs over
undulating ground to Ivrindi (6J hrs.).
From this village there is a fine view
of the Madug D.. over which there is
a good rood to Ifavran and Kdremid
in 10J hrs. The rood to Bcrgama
asoends by Yaghla , Kayapa , and Ye-
nije A., and crosses the forest-clad
ridge, 1750 ft, that divides the waters
of the Tarsius and Caicus, to Orkfit
C7J hrs.). Hence there is a steady
uescont through picturesque forest
scenery to Bski Bergamo (8} hrs.),
which is now identified with Pafoee-
gambrion. After crossing the Ili
Chai by a stone bridge, the road
runs through Ahmed Bey K. and over
tho plain to Bergamo, Pergamum (4}
hrs.). Sco Rte 81.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
62
Route 26 . — Susurlu — Kilxsse Keui,
ROUTE 26.
PANDERMA — MAOE8TU8 VALLEY"”
QEDIZ.
UBS.
Ksiskll 6
Susurlu 91
Kobsud T
Ilogadich 6
Silver 11 4
Straw (Synaus) 17
lied is (Cadi) 9
From Pandemia, Funormus , which
ia 8 lira, by steamer from Constanti-
nople, there are two roads to Susurlu.
By the direct road, which passes B. of
Maniyas Gcul, anot Aphniiis Limne ,
and crosses the Kara Cfhai below
its exit from the lake, it is 12 hrs.
The more interesting road runs
through Kulafii, and by the W. shore
of the lake to KsiafrH (5 hrs.); a
settlement of Oossuck or Russian
schismatics, who left their homes
more than 100 years ago, and have
preserved their language, religion,
and national costume. They are
export fishermen, and Die lalte, which
is 70 sq. m. in extent, teems with
fish. On the hills above the lake are
soveral villages of Bulgarians, who
removod from Koumolia about 200
years ago, and have retained their
language and nationality. From
Kazakh it is 12 hrs. to Balikisri by
a bridle path that crosses the Kirmas
I)., 1780 ft., to Shandi. The Susurlu
road runs S.E. over the plain, and
crosses the Kara Chat, anot. Tarsias,
2} hrs. before reaching Maniyas (5}
lira.), whore there are tho remains of
a Byzantine fortress, occupying the
site of the acropolis of an ancient
town, perhaps Foimanenon , and con-
structed with the ruins of its public
buildings ( inscriptions ).
Susurlu (4 hrs.), in the fertile valley
of the Macestus , here called Susurlu
Chai (p. 01). The road follows the
L bank through beautiful scenery to
the gorge of Tash-hapu (ruins of
bridge and castle), where it leaves the
river to rejoin it at Ildis (3 hrs.).
Some rocky hills are now crossed to
Xebsfid, or Xsspit (4 lira.), in a plain,
on the rt. bank of the river, about
4} lira, from Balildsri. There are
many inscriptions rudely cut on
blocks of red trachyte, indicating
proximity to an ancient site, perliaps
Hadrianoutherai (p. 61). The road
now crosses a range of low chalk hills
to tho village of KiWurja , built on a
moss of red trachyte, and then ascends
tho valley of the Macestus, now called
Simav Chai, to
Bogadieh (G lira.), in a fertile plain
at the foot of a hill on which are tho
ruins of a castle. Much opium is
t iroduoed in the neighbourhood. Borne
ow rocky hills are crossed, and the
Simav Cfhai is forded 1 hr. before
reaching
Siqjerli (4 lira.), whenco Ak-hissar
can be reached in 11 hrs. by a road
over the western prolongation of tho
Vemirji D. The road hero turns B.
up the valley, and in 3 hrs. passes
near somo hot sprintjs ( Ilija ) of so
high a temperature that 1 ni. from
the sources the water is 95° F.
Round each spring thore is a mound
of calcareous aoposit, and, wlioro tho
water falls over a cliff, stalactites are
formed as at Hicrapolis (p. 104). The
valley which now becomes narrower
and moro picturesque is followed to
Xilisse Keui, Ancyra-Sidera (14
hrs.), at tho W. end of the Simav
GevX. There are a remarkable hill, —
the Acropolis ; traces of a theatre ;
numerous broken columns and largo
marble blocks, and a few inscriptions.
On the plain 8. of tho lake is Simav,
Synaus (3 hrs.), ult. 2686 ft. There
are several interesting inscriptions in
the walls of the mosques and houseB ;
and on a low hill near the town are
the ruins of a castle. From Simav a
road runs 8. of the Ak Dagh, by
Kaiblar , and Cheliikji K. to
Gedis, Cadi (9 hrs.). See Rte. 24.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
— I
Digitized by
Route 27 . — Eeki Stamb&l.
63
110 UTK 27.
DARDANELLES — TROA 8 — A88O8 —
EDREMID— AIVAU- 8 MYRNA.
IIV.
GcyikJi 9* .
Ettkl BUmbol (Trvat) .... 1*
Bekhratit (j4«im) 9
Kdremld (Adramyttium) . . . 144
Alvali {Hera ded) 94
Ajfvutmand (AUe o) 34
Smyrna, by Steamer
From Chanak Kalosi the rood runs
through Eren K. (3 hrs.) to Chiplak
(2J lira.), in the immediate vicinity of
Troy ( Hissarlik ), and then over the
plain of Troy to Bunarbashi (2 hrs.).
For description of Hissarlik, the
plain, and Dunarboshi, see Handbook
to Constantinople. After leaving
Bunarbashi a raised terrace, partially
wooded, is crossed to Dari K. and
Geyikli (2 hrs.). The road now leads
pasta number of stone cannon balls,
mado out of the columns of Troas,
and through a pino wood of valonea
oak to Geyikli Scala , whereabout can
bo hired to visit Tenedos. A little
further is the small village of Dalian
(1) hrsA dose to the ruins of Troas,
now called
Elki Stamb&l. 'IVoas was founded
by Antigonus under the name Anti-
gonia Troas, aud peopled with settlers
from Scepsis and other towns; but
the name was afterwards altered by
Lysimuchus to Alexandria Troas.
During the reign of Augustus it was
made a Roman colony, and it was one
of the most important towns of the
province of Asia. It was the city
from which S. Paul first sailed to
curry the Gospel from Asia to Europe
(Acts xvi. 8-11') ; where he met those
who had preccacd him from Philippi
on his return from Greece ; and where
he raised Eutychus from the dead
(Aets xx. 5-12). In the timo of
Trajntt a long aqueduct, of which
remains may still be seen, was built
by Herodes Attious. It was the seat
of a bishopric, but its later history
is unknown. The ruins have long
been used as a quarry, and some of
tho most beautiful marble columns
were carried away by Muhammad IV.
(1049-87), to adorn the mosque, Ymi
Valideh Jam ?, erected by his mother
at Constantinople.
The ruins cover an extensive area,
on ground that rises gently from the
shore; but the site is so overgrown
with oak that no general view is
possible. The walls, with their
square flanking towers, can bo traced
thronghout their extent ; and amidst
the mass of ruins within them are the
remains of a gymnasium with baths
attached to it ; of an aaueduet which
joined tho N.E. angle or tho building ;
of a Doric temple ; of a theatre ; and
of a large platform supported on
arches. The port from which 8. Paul
sailed is easily traced. It had a
mole and an inner and an outer
basin. Round the inner basin are
traces of a quay and a colonnade, and
hero are three largo granito columns,
one broken. From the higher port of
the old town there is a flno viow of
Tenedos, Itnbros, and tho moro distaut
Lemnos.
In a valley 8 m. 8.E. of Troas are
hot springs, ( Uija ), which aro reached
by a road passing between several
vaulted tombs. Tne water, which is
salino and ferruginous, lias n tomporn-
ture of 117° F., and is muoh esteemod
for rheumaticand cutaneous affections.
There are remains of ancient baths,
and a rude modem bath, which is
much frequented in summer ; in the
house is the toreo of a woman.
[From Dalian an excursion may be
made to Ohigri Kalesi, Neandria
1 2 hrs.), or it may be visited en route
to Iue (p. 67), or Aiv^jik. The road
leads through the village of Koch-ali
Ovasi , where are ancient quarries, in
which mav be seen nine large granite .
columns similar to those on the beach ’
at Troas. Neandria, according to
Cedroitus, was pillaged bv Dioniodcs
during the Trojan war. This anoiant
Digitized by ^.ooole
64
Route 27 . — Bekhram .
stronghold stands on a grey granite
hill, of groat natural strength. “ The
summit is divided into two separate
peaks, tho highest of which served as
the Greek citadel while the town
stood on the plateau, between them
and on the sloping ground on the
S.E. side below. The whole is
surrounded by a wall of well-built
masonry in a wonderful state of
reservation, which runs up to the
ighest part of the citadel. On the
S. side there are 7 walls rising one
above the other, the lowermost of
which (more than 1 in. in length) is
pierced by 8 gateways flanked with
towers. The lintels of each guto
consist of large monoliths, and tho
blocks of stone with which the way
was paved are still in their places.
On the N. side tho Hellenic wall,
which is here pierced by 1 1 drains, is
joined by two walls of Polosgio
masonry.’* Within the walls aro
remains of houses. The early date
of tho town is indicated by tho
]M»lygoual character of tho masonry,
us well as by tho absence of in-
scriptions or cement, and the rarity
of any kind of ornamentation. The
position of Cbigri Kalosi accords with
that assigned by tho geographer
Demetrius to Paiaeoscejtsii, and tho
namo seems to be preserved in Eski-
slaipchi, a village N.E. of tho ruins.
Tho view from tho summit is very
fino.]
On leaving Troas the road to Assoa
runs over rough ground to Tubakli,
and tho largo villago Kiusss-dsresi
(31 hrs), at the mouth of a pretty
valley. It then crosses a spur and
plain toTnsla(ll lire . \ a small village
at tho mouth of a romantic, rocky
glen. Tho mosque was built a.i>. 1376
out of the ruins of a church. Tho
porch is paved with stoues, on many
of whicn aro defaced crossos, and
there are ether fragments in tho
cemetery. Tho hot salt springs from
which the village takes its name are
very numerous. Tbo hottest, about
} m. above the village, is so hot,
almost boiling, that a fowl can be
cooked in it. Thu wuter from tno
spriugs below tho village is led oil'
into salt pans, in which salt is pro-
duced by evaporation. This is
probably the site of tho ancient salt
works of Tragasai.
[At the foot of a hill, on the 1. bank
of the Aivajik Su, and 1 hr. from
Tuzla, is the picturesque village of
Ktdakli, with gardens, amongst which
are the rains of the Temple of Apollo
Smintheuty excavated in 1866 by Mr.
Pull&n for the Dilettanti Society.
The temple, built of white marble,
was a fine example of the Ionic order,
and fragments of the capitals, columns,
and entablature still lie on the ground.
Tho statuo of Apollo, which was of
wood, was carried to Constantinople
by one of tho Byzantine Enqieror*.
From Kulakli it is 2 hrs. to Baba
Bumu, Gape Lecture, and thence
there is a beautiful ride of 4 hrs.
along tho coast to Assoe, passing tho
site of tho shrino of tho hero I'ala-
inedes, at Pohjmedion, discovered by
Mr. Clarke.]
Leaving Tuzla tho mad runs by
TabaUur to the Aivajik Su , a net.
Satnioeis , a pretty stream, running
between steep rocky hills, which is
mentioned by Homor in tho Iliad.
After crossing tho rivor the way lios
over rough grouml to Bagae, and
Bekhram, Atsot (4 J hrs.). The site
of Assoe is otio of tho finest in A.
Minor. From tho shore of tho narrow
strait that Be|*irates Lesbos from tho
Trood an isolated cone of tracliyto
rises abrupUy to a height of moro
than 700 ft. Tho rock is broken iuto
natural terraoes, mounting tior upon
tier, which wore enlarged by srt, und
adorned with public buildings; and
above these, on tho summit of tbo
crag, was a temple of Athene.
A teas is said to huve boon foundotl
by .££olio colonists from Methymna ;
but, if wo may identify it with w steep
Podasos,” on tho Satmoeis, over which
Priam’s father-in-law reigned, iU
history goo s back beyond, Hellenic
times. Little is known of Assoe ex-
cepting the interesting fact, recorded
by Strubo, of its quaai-indepondouoe
during t lie lute Persian period. A
certain Eubulus, who liad made liim-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 27. — Bekhram. 65
self despot of Amos, was suooeeded
by the eunuoh Hermeas, an ex-slave,
and latterly his minister. Hermeas.
who had been a pupil of Plato, invited
Aristotle and Xenoorates to his court,
and save his niece in marriage to
the former, who spent , three years
(n. 0 . 348-45) at Assos. Hermeas was
seized by Persian treachery and
crucified. The philosopher escaped
to Qreeoe. • After the death of Alex*
ander, Assos formed part of the King-
dom of Lysimachus, from whose rule
it passed to the Rings of Pergamum ;
and finally, at the death of Attalus
III., it was incorporated in the Roman
Empire. 8. Paul and S. Luke visited
it on their way from Troas to Mitylcne
(Acts xx. 18). A bishop of Assos,
Maximus, was present at the Council
of Ephesus (a.d. 481). After this
the town almost disappears from
history; but the remains show that
it must have been partially bccupied
in the Byzantine and early Turkish
periods. According to the historian 1
Duces it was called Machramion, from
a Byzantine offloer Machr&m, and
hence its modem name— Bekhram,
After the Crimean war Assos booame
the quarry from which much of the
stone required for the new dorks at
Constantinople was obtained. Many
of the buildings were destroyed, but,
eveu in their present state, the ruins
give a good idea of a Greek city, and
the walls form the finest example of
Greek military engiueerlng in ex-
istence.
At the foot of the crag is the little
harbour , protected by a mole from
southerly winds, from which the
valonea “ acorn -efipe,” collected in the
vicinity* are shipped. The ancient
harbour , from which 8. Paul sailed,
was about 150 yds. to the E., and a
portion of its quay wns uncovered
some years ago. in making a garden.
Climbing the kill, by a steep rooky
path; we first reach the site of the
theatre, of which little is now left
On a terrace above are the bathe, and
other buildings. Oil a higher terraoe
cure the market-place, once flanked by
a splendid oolonnade, with the Dorio
Temple of Auguetue near it, the public
[Turkey.]
treasury, and the gymnaeium. The
retaining well of this terrace is well'
built, and the character of its masonry
deeervee attention. From the terrace
a path leads op over the rough
trachyte — here broken into quaint
forms— to the summit, where the
traveller may recall the line of
Stratooicus: —
"If yoa wish to hasten joof death try and
climb Isms."
The plan of the Doric temple of
Athene was for the first time com-
pletely and scientifically determined
by the excavations carried out by Mf«
Clarke in 1882-3, for the Arohae*
ological Institute of America. The
temple was built, perhaps, not earlief
than about B.O. 470; and fbr the
history of some details in the Dorio
style its interest id unique. Most of
the bae-relief* were given to France
by Sultan Mahmfld II., and are now
in the Louvre, but tbe American ex-
plorers found fragments forming eight ,
complete reliefs from tbe same series.
The sculptures form one of the moot
important links yot found between
Oriental aitd Greek art No temple
had a grander site. The view is
mugnificent In front, across the
blue waters of the stmit, is tbe u noble
and pleasant island” Lesbos, with
the promontory and citadel of Mo-
thymna. Mount Lepethytunus, and the
far-distant peak of the Lesbian
Olympus. The whole 8. onast of the
Tro&a is visible from Cape Lectum
on the rt to the inmost rooesees of the
gulf on the L ; and, awav in the dis-
tance, may be seen tne hundred
islands, or “ islands of Apollo ” (He-
oatonneei), and the outline of the
hills that run southward to Per-,
gamum. Oh the E. rise the heights
of Ida, the domes of Gargarus and
Ootylus, and, at a lower level, Mt
Alexandria, filmed for the judgment
of Paris. 44 Northward the Satnideis
is seen winding through the yellow
fields and verdure of its rich valldy,
from a rugged gdrge in the east to
tbe oak-forests in the folds of the
wettern hills.”
On the summit are the remains o t
f
Digitized by
Google
6 & ; Houle 27 .— Edremid— Await.
a Turkish fortress , partly built on
older foundations, in the masonry of
whieh are fragments of the temple.
North of the temple-platform are two
deep vaulted citterns, and a large
square mediaeval tower standing on
Hellenic foundations. Near tlie latter,
on a rook-hewu platform, is a Byzon-
tine church , now used as a mosque.
It is a square building, with a briek
dome; and old material, partly from
the temple, has been used in its con-
struction. On the lintel of the central
door is a rudely cut Greek inscription .
There is a porch with two white
marble columns. In front of the
church is the large village of Bekhram,
and beyond the village is the city
wall.,
The inner wall which runs down
from the Acropolis is a fine specimen
of Hellenic mural masonry ; it is 8 ft
thick, and consists of a core of selected
stones faced on either side with well-
dressed stone, sot without mortar, in
courses from 12} in. to 18} in. high.
The wall is pierced by an interesting
aaleway which, on its external face,
has a lintel, and, on its internal, a
horizontal arch. The outer wall is
protected by square flanking towers,
about CO ft. apart, which project
about 15 ft. . The masonry is similar
to that of the inner wall, and at one
point the coping remains. N. of the
village is a remarkable semi-circular
tower , 20 ft. in diameter, which is
evidently of the same date as the
wall. It has 4 loop-holes, and above
them a passage in the thickness of
the Wftll. The entrance is from the
rear, and is covered by a fine semi-
circular arch of 13 stones, of equal
size, set without mortar. To the W.
of the tower is an ancient paved road.
but the gate by which it entered
has disappeared. The principal gate-
t oay, on the N.W., has teen destroyed,
but its massive flanking towers re-
main. Without the gate are numbers
of saroophagi, and handsome public
seats, rising in terraces above the
payed road by which 8. Paul must
nave approached Assos. Some of the
sarcophagi are highly ornumented
and have defaced inscriptions; others
are of very large size. They ird all
of trachyte — apparently the u lapis
Aseius,” which, according to Pliny,
had the property of wasting the bodies
entombed in it ; hence the term sarco-
phagus, “ flesh-eating.**
At the hurteur boats can be hired
to go to Molivo, anct. Methymna ; to
Mitylene; or to AivalL The coast
road , which is in places rough, runs
£. from Bekhram through Kodu ,
Satli, picturesquely situated, Demirju
and Arikli, anct. Oaroara, to Narli
Iskelesi (7} lira.), whence Evjdar
(p. 68) can be reached in 8 hrs. by
a road over the wooded spurs of
Mt Ida. Following the coast by
Papasli Iskelesi; the site of An-
tandros ; Evjilur Iskelesi; and IUjOy
anct. Astyra, the road runs on to
Edremid, Adramyttium (7 hr*.), ft
town of wood houses, situated in the
plain in tho midst of viaoyardb and
olive groves. It has u good trade im
olive oil, raisins, and timber, which
are shipped at two ports 4 and G
miles distant Of toe population
}th is Greek. There is no trace of
the ancient city fouuded by Adramys,
brother of Croesus, which was sub-
sequently colonised by the Athenians.
Under the Kings of Pergamum it
became a sea-port of some note, and
under the Romans an assize-town.
It was in one of its ships that 8. Paul
sailed from Caesarea (Acts xxvii. 2).
Leaving Edremid the read runs over
tho pluin to Kemer (2} hi*.), a town
which ships much olive oil and
valonea at Kara-tash — a place identi-
fied by some writers with Adramyttium.
From Kemer, Pergamum can be
reached in 14 hrs. by a direct road
over the mountains. The coast road
passes through Geumech (3} hrs.) to
Aivali, Heradea (3} hrs.), called
by tho Greeks Kydonia. Tho town
was founded iu 1781, by John Econo*
mos, and had special privileges
granted to it by the Sultan. It grew
rapidly, aud when the Greek revolu-
tion broke out it was a prosperous
lace with churches, hospitals, & cele
ruted college, aud a population of
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67
Route 28. — EMtne—Cebrehe.
30,000 Greeks. Ou the 14th Jane,
1821, when the Greek fleet wee lying
off Maekoneei, the wealthy inhabi-
tants sent a deputation to the Greek
Admiral begging him to assist and
protect their embarkation on the fleet.
Next day, whilst the embarkation was
proceeding, the Greeks were attacked
by the Osmanli troops and a warm
engagement ensued, during which the
town was horned to the ground and
completely destroyed. A large pro-
portion of the inhabitants were saved,
but many were killed or taken and
sold as slaves. For nearly 80 years
the site lay waste, but when building
was once commenced the town grew
rapidly ; and it has now a population,
all Greek, of about 40,000. It is
prettily situated on the slope of a
hill, on the summit of which are the
Monastery of 8 . Elias, and several
wiodmills; and it is one of the most
thriving places in the Levant. There
are 12 churches, a hospital, a gym-
nasium, schools of various grades for
boys and girls, many shops, and two
hotels. Alvali is oelebrated for its
raW, and large quantities of olive oil
are made. There are also soap manu-
factories , and a fleet of over 100
fishing boats , which supply the Con-
stantinople and Smyrha markets with
fish. A British Vice-Consul resides
in the town. On the island of Mus-
honesi , separated from the mainland
by shallow water, there is a large and
growing town of the same name,
which is also almost entirely Greek.
From Aivali the road runs over un-
dulating ground to Ayasmand, orAyat-
mat, Attea (2$ hrs.), once an import- ■
ant Moslem town and post-station,'
but now a Greek village. Thence
the ooast is followed to Dutsll (5 hrs.),
the port of Pergamum, which is 6 hrs.
distant It is a rapidly growing town,
and exports valonea and ootton. From
Dikeli the traveller can Join Bte. 81
at Elaoa (5 hrs.), and follow it to
Menemen and Smyrna ; or he can
prooeed by steamer direct to
Smyrna, See Bte. 29.
ROUTE 28.
DARDANELLES — INE — BAII^MlOH-*
MT. IDA.
feuoArbflth! # . « «
Ine
Bainmtch, by Cebrene
ErJtUr
Ascent of Ids . . .
nts.
n
3ft
•ft
From the Dardanelles ( Chanak Ka -
lesi) by Bte. 27 to Bunarbashi (7J
his.), and thence up the L bank of
the Menders Chai, anct Soamander ,
passing through a basalt district to
Arablar , Sarimsak Keupri , and
Brins, or Ins (2| hrs.), whence
Alexandria Trots can be reached in
5 hrs. Outside the town is a natural
mound. Sovran Tepe , which, by false
analogy, has been taken to be the
tomb of Aeneas. From Ine there is a
direct rood up the rich well -cultivated
valley to Batramich in 4 hrs. But it
is mord interesting to turn off after
2) hrs., at I'urkmanli, and visit the
ruins of
Oshrsns, on the Chal Dagh(3\ hrs.).
Cebrene is one of the strongholds,
mentioned by Demetrius of Scepsis,
the inhabitants of whiob were trans-
ferred to Alexandria Troas by Anti-
gonus. The t calls are distinctly trace-
able in their whole extent ; they are'
8 m. in circuit, 8-10 ft wide, and, 1
where perfect, over 10 ft high. The
masonry is of different dates, partly
Cyclopean, and partly dressed stone,
in more or less horizontal courses.
There are traoes of five gates, and of
a causeway on the hill-slope towards
Beuyflk Bunarbashi (1 hr.), a group
of springs at the foot of the moun-
tain. The water rises with great
force, and is reoeived into a marble
res e r vo ir overshadowed by fine plane
trees. The vapour which hangs over
the reservoir during the cold winter
f 2
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68
Route 28 . — Bairamich.
months has given rise to a native
belief that the water is cold in sum-
mer and hot in winter. The stream
from the spriqgB may perhaps be the
river Cebren, the mythical parent of
Oenone ; and two tumult are pointed
out as the tombs of Oenono and Paris
i hr. before reaching
Bairamich (2 hrs.), a well-built
town, prettily situated on a terrace
above the Scamander, which is reputed
to be the coolest plaoe in the Troad
during the hot season. A forest of
pines to the S.E. of the town is an
agreeable plaoe of resort, and is muoh
frequented by the inhabitants. Ev-
jilar, the best starting-point for the
asoent of Ml Ida, can be reached
in 4 hrs., but, by making a short
ditour, the interesting ruins on Xnr-
shunlu Teps (2 hrs.) can be visited.
This isolated hill stands out conspi-
cuous on the rt bank of the Soaman-
der. On the N. side, half way up, are
the foundations of a Roman building,
of white marble, about 90 ft long
and 50 ft wide, without any traces of
ornamentation. To the W. of this are
the ruins of baths; further on are
fragments of a Doric entablature,
ana, beyond, pieoes of Doric columns,
which appear to have been rolled
down from above. A winding road
leads to the summit where, amidst a
clump of oaks, are some Cyclopean
walls built of enormous stones. On
the E. and W. are two circles of
stones, arranged like Druidical crom-
lechs. Tills ancient liieron belongs
to a period of the earliest antiquity.
The vie to from the summit is one of
the finest in the Troad, and the site is
supposed by Mr. Pullan, partly from
the ooins ho found there, to be that of
Scepsis. Recrossing the Scamauder,
by a bridge at tlie root of the hill, the
rood runs through maguificent scenery
to
Svjilar (4 hrs.), a small Turkish
village on a mountain stream. •* Look-
ing up the confined valley in which
the crystal river flow* you see the
pioturesque wooded sours which
descend on either side oi it from the
main chain, beyond which rises the
great mountain itself, clothed with
dark forests until within a thousand
feet of the summit, which rises bold
and bare, a mass of grey limestone
surmounting all.”
At Evjilar a guide must be taken
for the ascent of Mt. Ida . The path
leads by the easternmost of the two
streams into which the river here
divides. After about 4 hrs. ride the
wooded district is abandoned for the
bare side of the mountain. From
this point there is a fine view towards
the N., and the four peaks of ML
Ida — Cotylus, Pvtna, Alexandria, and
Gargarus — are distinctly seen. From
the limit of vegetation, it is an hour’s
climb over rocky ground to the sum-
mit of Gargarus, 5750 ft. When
there is ice on the upper part of the
mountain, the asoent is extremely
diffloulL But if the traveller finds
it possible to road) the highest point
he will be amply rowardod by the
prospect before him. Constantinople,
the Sea of Marmara, the Asiatic
Olympus, the Propontis, and the Hel-
lespont, the shores of the Thracian
Chersonese, Assos, the islands of Im-
bros, Sainotlirace, Lemnos, Tenedos,
Euboea, the Gulf of Smyrna, and
parts of Mysia, Bitliynia, Lydia, and
Iouia, are included in this glorious
y unorama. Here Horner represents
upiter seated to watch the move-
ments of the Greek and Trojan armies,
and J uno approaching him in a purple
cloud from Locturn ( Baba JJumu).
Ida had a sacred charucter among
the Greeks, and several monasteries
and oells were built on its sides, the
ruins of which may still be traced.
On the Greek festival of Elijah— to
whom the summits of many moun-
tains are dedicated — numbers of
people from the neighbouring villages
pass the night on Uie mountain-side,
and have service on the summit
Whou descending to Evjilar, the
sources of the Soamander may be
visited in a cavern called Beupuk
Maghara. It will be necessary to
light pine torches, and wade for about
100 ft through the rocky cavo, where
a spacious hall, gradually rising to
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 29. — Tenedo — Oulf of Smyrna .
69
a groove at the top like the “JEar
of Dionysius” at Syraouse, will be
reached. At the farther end of this
the dear water gashes out— a suitable
fountain-head for one of the great
Homerio rivers. Lower down, the
main stream branches into numerous
cascades, which unite to form one
grand waterfall. Henoe the Homerio
appellation of the •* many-fonntained
Ida.” From EvjUar the traveller can
return to Bairaraioh and the Darda-
nelles, or cross the spurs of tbe Kax
Dagh (Mi Ida) to Narli (8 hrs.), and
Kdrmnid (7 hrs.). (Bee Rte. 27.)
ROUTE 29.
CONSTANTINOPLE TO SMYRNA, BY
BBA.
Unless time be an object, the most
interesting route to Smyrna is that
followed by the steamers of the Aus-
trian Lloyd Company and of other
lines, calling at Mltylene. From
Constantinople to the forts that guard
the entranoe to the Dardanelles, See
Handbook to Constantinople. On issu-
ing from the straits, Imbros and “ far-
distant” Bamothraoe appear on the
it., and the tombs of Achilles and
Patroolus, the 8igean promontory, and
Yenl-shehr , on the L Tbe steamer
keeps near the shore, passing between
the small islands, Tavshan Adalar.
“ Rabbit Islands,” anot Lagussae and
Yeni Keui t on tbe mainland, and
crossing BesBca Bay, where the British
and French fleets assembled in 1853
prior to their passage of the Dar-
danelles, and where the British fleet
under Admiral Hornby lay in 1877-8,
during the Turoo-Russian war, to
Tenedo, the chief town of the
island of Tenedoe. The town, which
is surrounded by walls, occupies the
lower slopes of a hill that is crowned
by a citadel. Steaming 8. past Alex-
andria Troae , we round Baba Bumu,
anct Ledum, with its fort Baba Kalesi,
and take an easterly direction between
tbe mainland and the beautiful island
of Mitylene, anot Lesbos. On tbe rt,
on entering the strait, is MoUvo, anct
Methymna, and, further on, ML Le-
pdhymnue ; and on the L the black
volcanic oone of Assos is conspicuous,
and, further E., the whole range ot
ML Ida and the Gulf of Adramythium
are visible. Turning 8. the steamer
passes the islands of Mushoneei , anct.
Heoatonnesi (l.), with- -a large Greek
monastery, beyond whioh are the wind-
mills of Aivau (p. 66), and calls at
Kastro, Mitdene, on the E. coast of
the island. It is a prettily-situated
town, with a considerable trade, and
the residence of a British Vice-Con-
sul The principal objeots of interest
are the two harbours, the castie, and
the Greek college. There are few
remains of the ancient city. 8oon
after leaving Kastro the steamer
passes IHkeli (LX the modem part of
Pergamum, and the Kara D., anct
Mt. Cane (LX and then crosses the
stormy Oulf of Chanderli, at the end
of which are tbe ruins of Blaea , the
anoient port of Pergamum. Further
on is the entranoe to the piotureeque
Oulf of Smyrna. On the rt, at the
end of the Ionian Peninsula, is Kara
Burun, anct Melaena, forming the
N.W. extremity of the massive Bos D.,
anct ML Mimas (4000 ftX On the L
Focha, or Phokia (Gk.X anot Phoeaea ,
the metropolis of Marseilles. As we
advanoe, the beauty of the gulf in-
creases. On the N. are seen Yaman-
lar D 8500 ft, aod the loftier heights
of ML Sipylus, 6000 ft; on the E.
Nif D., the Ionian Olympus, 6000 it ;
ana on the 8. the continuation of the
Bos D., and the fine peaks of the
“ Two Brothers 3000 it Steaming
between Macronesi, M Long island,”
anct Drumussa (rt) and Lefke, anct
Leuoae (L), we pass the scala of Vurla,
anct dawmenae, with the quarantine
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70
Route 29 .—Smyrna : Description. .
establishment ; and then, turning B.,
keep close to the southern shore to
avoid the shoals, formed by the silt
brought down by the Hermus, which,
until the course of the river was
diverted to the coast N. of Leucae,
threatened to close the approach to
Smyrna. The narrowest part of the
ohannel, only } m., is opposite Sanjak
Kaleti, an old Turkish fort which
has been converted into a modem
battery for heavy guus. Soon after
passing the fort, and some pretty
suburbs, we reach
SMYRNA.
General Description. — Smyrna, It-
mir, the capital of the Aidin Yil&yet,
and residenoe of the Yuli, is situated
at the head of a gulf SO m. long, in
Lat. 88° 26' N. and Long. 27° 9' B.
It is the most important town in A.
Minor, and one of the principal ports
of the Ottoman Bmpire. Lines of
steamers run to London, lJverpool,
Marseilles, Genoa, Brindisi, and
Trieste ; and there is direct communi-
cation by steam with all the principal
sea-ports in the Levant. Line* qf
railway , that run up the Hermus
Valley to Ala-ahebr, and by way of
the Maeander Valley to Aidin and
Dineir, bring down the rich produce
of the interior, and greatly facilitate
excursions to the remoter districts.
The city is built partly on level ground
and partly on the lower slopes of Mt.
Pagus ; and the first view of it from
the sea is one that lingers long in the
memory. From the bright blue waters
of the Gulf, the eyo wanders over the
harbour crowded with ships of all
nations, and instinot with life, to the
stately liue of buildings that border
the quay, the towers and cupolas of
the Christian churches, the tapering
minarets, the tall cypresses in the
cemeteries, the picturesque ruin that
crowns Mt. Pagus, and the more dis-
tant hills, whose graceful outlines are
sharply marked against a cloudless
sky.
Giaour, M Infidel,” Smyrna, ns it is
f^|}ed by the Turks, is divided into
five Quarters, whioh are occasionally
dovetailed into each other in a curious
manner. The Modern Quarter is easily
recognised by the white minarets ana
dark cypresses that rise in its midst
The houses inland aro built tier above
tier on the hillside, and most of them
have a balcony, whence a fine view
may be obtained. The streets are
narrow and overhung by projecting
windows and roofs. Near the shore
the Quarter has been modernised, and
here are the new Prison, the Konak or
Government House, the Barracks,
and a College. The Basdrs partly
occupy the site of the ancient harbour,
of winch traces were seen by Tourae-
fort and Pococke (1788). The Castle,
Cromido-oastro , of this harbour, once
occupied by the Knights of 8. John,
was pulled down some years ago, and
a new baz&r built on its site.
The Jewish Quarter lies between
the Turkish, Armenian, and Greek
Quarters, and covers a considerable
area. This is the poorest part of the
town, and though there has been
much improvement of late years, there
is still much poverty and overcrowd-
ing. The Armenian Quarter lies E.
of the Greek Quarter, and is marked
by the regularity of its streets and its
general cleanliness. It suffered from
a fire in 1845, and in rebuilding, the
streets were widened and other im-
provements made. The large new
Church of 8. Stephan is a prominent
object from all points of view.
The Greek Quarter lies between the
Armenian Quarter and Frank Street,
and its appearance indicates a high
state of prosperity. The Greeks,
though oooupying this Quarter almost
to the exclusion of other races, are
also found in the other Quarters. High
up on the hillside, in the midst of the
Turkish Quarter, a Greek colony is
clustered round the Church of 8. John ;
and Frank Street is occupied by
Greeks and Europeans. In the lower
town the strict division into Quartern
is no longer maintained. The Euro-
pean Quarter runs along the shore
from the Church of S. Photini to the
Point. The principal thoroughfares
are Franjc |3tre^ an<} Parallel Street,
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Route 29. — Smyrna : Climate . 71
both running parallel to the shore —
the former under the names Tristrafcon,
Frank 8 tree t, Fared I a, Trftssa, and
Bella- vista. Frank Street proper con-
tains most of the shops, ana the houses
on either sido are well built as far ns
Bolla-vista. The well-known wind-
mill tower at the Point is now sur-
rounded by buildings, recently erected
on ground reclaimed from the sea.
Parallel Street and the Marina are
bordered by fine houses, that give this
part of the town a European character.
The quay and harbour were con-
structed by a French Company (1870-
75). The former runs the whole length
of the sea front, about 2 *m. ; and be-
tweon the harbour and the Konak there
are large warehouses. There are good
hotels near the landing-plaoe, and a
tramway runs the Whole length of
the quay from the Konak to the Point
Rly. Station.
The Population is an interesting
study. Whilst lees than one-fourth of
a total population of about 250,000 is
Moslem, more than one-half, including
45,000 Hellenes, or Greek subjects, is
Greek. There are large Armenian
and Jewish communities, and oolonies
from Persia, the United 8tates, and
nearly every country in Europe.
The wealthier Moslems wear Euro-
pean clothes, with a fez; the poorer
retain the turban and loose trousers
fastened below thd knee. The lower
classes are employed as agricultural
labourers, saddlers, and tanners, and
in the manufacture of copper utensils,
camel bells, horseshoes, looks, chains,
drums for packing Jflgs, clothing for
home use, Ac. The Smyrniote Greeks
have regular features, and a vivacity
which Is in strong contrast to the
apathy of their Moslem neighbours.
The upper, and most of the lower
classes have adopted European
oostume. The Greeks are eminently
Successful as professional and mercan-
tile men; they are merchants, law-
yers, hud doctors* and the trade of the
port is passing more and more into
their hands. The lower classes, who
are small tradesmen, artisans, boat-
men, AA, are intelligent, and eager tp
Improve their position. The Arme-
nians are tall educated and intel-
ligent. They are distinguished by
their mercantile enterprise, and are
as a rule Wealthy. There are some
Roman Catholics, but most of them
belong to their national church. The
Jem are readily distinguished by
their personal appearanoe; they are
tall and almost fair-haired, and they
aro commencing to adopt European
dress. Many families speak French,
but the common language is a corrupt
Spanish. The petty trades are in
their hands, but there are a few
wealthy men.
Looal Government. — At the head of
the Vilayet is the Vnli, or Governor-
General, who is assisted by a Council ,
in which the Grfeek and Armenian
Archbishops, the Chief Rabbi, and
the representatives of the Roman
Catholic and Protestant Armenians
have seats. The town is governed by
a Municipal body. The affairs of tlie
Christian and Jewish communities
{millets) are managed by their religi-
ous heads, assisted by councils elected
by the people. Europeans are under
the jurisdiction of their Consuls.
Cases between Europeans and Otto-
man subjects are brought before the
“Tribunal of Commerce ” ( Tefaret ),
on which each Consulate has a repre-
sentative.
The olimate is variable. The spring
and autumn are temperate and delight-
ful ; the winter , though snow lies only
on the mountain tops, is comparatively
cold, and a damp, chilly wind that
springs up suddenly, blows down from
the mountains; the summer heat is
intense, the shade temperature being
frequently 102 J Ft in the day, and
92° at night, but it is tempered by a
sea breeze,, the Imbat, which blows
nearly etery day throughout the
summer months.
Smyrna is on the whole a healthy
(owh, but travellers should take pre-
cautions against chills, and not need-
lessly expose themselves to the night
air when the wind b)ows off the land.
Fever of a mild type if eopimou. Thorp
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72 Bouts 29.— Smyrna : History.
are occasional outbreaks of typhoid
and diphtheria ; but, in spite of its
crowded population, and comparative
neglect of sanitary precautions, the
city has, with the exception of the
outbreak of oholera, not of a very
malignant type, in the summer of
1893, for many years been remarkably
free from serious epidemics.
The Geology of the Smyrna district
is described by W. Strickland in the
Transactions of the Oeologuxd Society ,
vol v., 2nd series. t
F History . — Smyrna is a very ancient
city. When, b.o. 1100, the Aeolians
from Oyme founded the first oity, it
was on around that had already been
oooupied by a settlement of the Le-
leges. This town was at the N.E.
corner of the bay, where there are
considerable remains of cyclopean
masonry. The town was conquered
by Ephesian Ionians, aided by Colo-
phonians, and, about b.o. 688, it passed
to the Ioniun Confederacy. It was
unsuccessfully attacked by Gyges,
King of Lydia, and taken, b.o. 627, by
his son Alyattes. For more than 300
years it was organised “ on the native
Anatolian village system, not as a
Greek nlAis and, after the capture
of Sardis by Alexander, it was rebuilt
by Antigonus and Lysimaohus, about
3 m. from the old town, op the site
oocupied by the modern city. Under
the successors of Alexander, Smyrna
was pre-eminent amongst the cities of
Asia; and throughout the Roman
period it was celebrated for its schools
of science and medicine, for its magni-
fioent buildings, and for its wealth.
Poring the Mithridatio war it re-
mained true to Rome ; but it suffered
afterwards when Trebonius, one of
the murderers of Caesar, was besieged
there by Dolabella.
When Phooaea lost its political
power, Smyrna, besides being the
outlet for the produce of the Hermus
and Oayster valleys, shared with
Ephesus and Miletus the oommeroe
of Anatolia. The town claimed to be
a M Metropolis ” of the Provinoe of
Asia? was dignified by the title
Prole Asiast was allowed to erect a
temple to Tiberius, and styled Neo-
coros; and retained its privilege of
coining money throughout the Roman
period.. In a.d. 178 and 180 it suf-
fered much from earthquakes, but was
restored by M. Aurelius. Smyrna is
one of the “ Seven Churches ” alluded
to by 8. John in the Apocalypse
(ii. 8-11); and S. Polycarp, its first
bishop, was burned, a.d. 155, near the
stadium where his tomb is now shown.
During the Byzantine period
Smyrna suffered many vicissitudes.
In 1084 it was Beized by a Seljfik
chief, Ohakas, who held it for about
13 yean., when he was driven out by
John Ducas, the brother-in-law of
Alexius Comnenus. Ohakas again
took possession of the town, but, after
having been driven out a second time,
he perished by treachery. Early in
the 13th cent, the Emp. John III.
Ducas restored the castle on MtPagus,
a fact recorded in an inscription on
the N. doorway. In the beginning of
tho 14th cent, when the Seljfik Em-
piro fell to pieces, Aidin, tho govornor
of Qiizel-hissar , anot Tralles , declared
himself independent His territory
included the valleys of the Maeander
and Cayster, and his principal towns
were Aidin (Tralles), Ay asolfik (Ephe-
sus), Birghi (Dios Hieron ?), and Smyr-
na. During the rule of his grandson,
Omar, the Knights of Rhodes seized
the lower castle, Oromido-oastro, and
in an attempt to retake it, in 1318,
Omar was killed.
Smyrna was unsuccessfully be-
sieged by the Osmanli Sultans Murad L
and Bayezid I. ; but after the battle
of Angora (1402) it was captured by
Timfir. The Mongols constructed a
mole across tho harbour, and, after
a heroic defenoe by the Christian
knights, the town was taken by storm.
The victor then erected a tower, as
a trophy, into which the heads of a
thousand captives were built When
Timfir left, the town fell into the
hands of Juneid, the insurgent chief
of Ayasolfik, who was defeated by
Muhammad I., and finally overthrown
(1424) by Murad II. The province
of Aidin now passed to the Osmanlie,
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Route 29 . — Smyrna : Topography. 73
and during the development of their
empire, Smyrna attained a high degree
of prosperity, which it has since main-
tained. In 1702 Tonrnefort estimated
the total population at 27,200, viz.
15,000 Moslems, 10,000 Greeks, 1800
Jews, 200 Armenians, and 200 Roman
Catholics.
The city suffered severely from
earthquakes in 1688 and 1788; and
some damage was caused by the earth-
quake of 1880. Slight shocks are felt
every year ; and, as a measure of pro-
bation, most of the houses are now
built of masonry, with a framework of
wood. During recent years there have
been several destructive fires in quar-
ters where the houses are built of
wood.
In 1858 the two lines of railway ,
which have so greatly contributed to
the prosperity of the city, were com-
menced by English Companies ; and,
in 1870-75, the quays, which give
Smyrna such a European character,
were constructed by a French Com-
pany.
Ancient Topography.— Smyrna has
experienced so many vicissitudes, that
few remains of its ancient buildings
have been left There are, however,
certain objects of interest, and the
extent of the old Greek city can be
traced.
The Acropolis of Lysimachus stood
on the W. part of Mt. Pages, where,
in the lower part of the wall, some
Greek masonry may still be seen.
From this point the t calls of the town
stretched W. and N. In the first case
the wall ran up the hill above the
stadium, enclosed the Tnrkish ceme-
teries, crossed the hill above the old
Jewish cemetery, and reaohed the sea
near Karatash. Some years ago frag-
ments nearly 6 ft thick Were visible.
On the other side tho wall, starting
from the N. W. angle of the Acropolis,
ran l Jn a straight line to the Basma-
khftneh 8tation ; there it bent at right
angles, and, enclosing the Armenian
Church, ended at the Castle of 8. Peter,
Oromido-castro. Remains of it may
be seen near the Theatre, near the
Station, and in the oourt of a house in
the Armenian Quarter.
The flanking towen have disap-
peared, but the names of some of them
are known from inscriptions, as the
towers of 44 Good Fortune,” 44 Happy
Year,” M Michael the Great Emperor,”
u Heracles,” the 44 Dioscuri," Ac. The
sites of two of the gates are known.
One, in the 8.W. part of the Turkish
Quarter, whero a portion of the old
E averaent is preserved, was probably
nown as the 44 Ephesinn Gate." The
other, a little above the Basma-khlnoh
Station, Is still called Kara Kapu ,
"Black Gate," by the Turks. An
inscription found here mentions the
restoration of the walls by Heradius.
The street which connected those
gates was oalled the 44 Golden Street"
Smyrna possessed the Homerium,
erected in honour of Homer, and
numerous Templet, including those of
the Nemeses, of Oybele, called 14 the
Metroum," of Aesculapius, of Jupitor
Acreus, of Apollo, of Anubis, of Scra-
pie, of Artemis, and of Venus Strato-
nicaca. There woro also a Prytanaoum,
a Theatre, a Stadium, an Odeum, a
Publio Library, and beautiful two-
storied Portiooes. Of these monu-
ments bat few can be traced.
The Theatre, on the slope of Mt.
Pagus, was one of the largest in Ionia,
ana oould hold 20,000 spectators. AH
that remains is a vaulted passage with
a peculiar arrangement of the key-
stones. The proeoenium and orchestra
are built over, and of the oavea nothing
is left but the natural hollow. The
large Vizier Khan has been built out
of the ruins.
The Stadium lies to the N.W., a
little above the theatre. The sub-
structures that existed a few years ago
have boon destroyed to make room for
a Turkish ltouse, and it Is now only
possible to distinguish the general
plan. The Turkish tomb , with the
oypress-tree at the N.W. corner, is,
according to tradition, the memorial
tomb of 8 . Polycarp , who suffered mar-
tyrdom here. Pocooke relates that a
governor of Smyrna, wishing to stop
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Route 29 . —Smyrna : Mount Pogue.
the disorders at the festival of the
: saint, turned the tomb into a Turkish
. santon, and that the Christiana then
ceased to visit it, A fragment of the
i town wall that, until recently, stood
at the head of the stadium, was erro-
neously supposed to be part of tho
« church of 8. Polycarp.
Between the Turkish and Jewish
'Quarters, there are extensive ruins,
.chiefly beneath the surfuce, which
i probably mark the site of one of the
• Porticoes mentioned by Strabo; and
the numerous oolumns of breccia in
the Turkish cemetery above appa-
rently belonged to tho same building,
and not as supposed to a church of 8.
John. In the courtyard of M. Sidi’s
house is the entrance to a wide, vaulted
passage, which is said to run far up
Mt. Pagus, it is now walled up about
40 yds. from its mouth. The hill was
honeycombed with such passages in
connection with tho water supply, and
a fow yean ago several of the open-
ings were visible. On the hill above
the old Jewish ooraotery, Mt. Cory -
plteum, now covered with houses, stood
a large building, variously identified
with the Temple of Jupiter , or Aescula-
pius. It was destroyed to obtain
material for the barracks. Near the
sea, towards Kara -tosh, and in tho
oemetery itself, is the site of another
temple.
Caravan Bridge, over the so-called
Melee, where caravans halted before
the introduction of railways, hits Greek
or Roman foundations ; and the frag-
ments of the wall that bordered the
river on both sides are of the same
date. The position of the Elver Meles,
at the source of which Homer com-
posed his immortal poems, is much dis-
puted. Those who place Old Smyrna
at Agia Triada, or Bariakli , identify
it with the stream near Hajji MQtso;
Kiepert has given the name to the
rivers of Uflrnabet and Hujiilur ; Prof.
Ramsay and M. Red us identify the
source with Halka-bunar , or “ Diana’s
bath** (p. 77); and others find it in
the stream that rises in the plaiu of
Colophon, near Beidi Keui, and runs
down bejtijud Mt, Pagus. 1} is po*.
sible that when the site of Smyrna
was ohanged the Meles went with it ;
but it is more probable that the river
was always that flowing from u Diana’s
Bath/’
Mount Pagus, the most interesting
place in Smyrna, is about 460 ft.
high. It is composed of trachyte and
trachyte conglomerate, and on the
N.E. side are beds from which the
loam used for the flat roofs of the
homes is quarried. The oastle con-
sists of two parts : the keep on the W.,
and a fortified enclosure, on the B.,
with walls of the Byzantine period.
The total length is nearly 600 yds.
In recent years the walls have been
largely demolished for building pur-
poses. Near the centre of the enclo-
sure stood an anoient mosque, with the
four columns mentioned by travellers.
It is now level with the ground, but
was at one time wrongly supposed to
be a ohuroh in which 8. Polycarp had
preached. Near this ruin is a largo
reservoir , covered by a vaulted roof
carried on pillars, which was con-
structed by the Emperor who restored
the castle early in the 18th cent
There are other smaller cisterns to-
wards the E. The walls and towers
of the Aoropolis proper oontatn frag-
ments of Greek masonry. At their
feet are large well-dressed stonos, and
above them Byzantine and Turkish
masonry. The three different styles
are well seen from the outside in the
round totoer at the 8. W. oornor. There
was a chemin des rondes reached by
several flights of steps. The entrance
was on the E. through a well-built
tower ; and, on the N., a gate led to
the fortified enclosure. Here there
was an inscription (p. 72), and near
it a beautiful bust of Apollo, or of an
Amazon, of which Tournefort gives
a oopy. The view from Mt. Pagus,
which inoludes the whole Gulf of
Smyrna, and extends to Chios and
Mitylene, is one of the most beautiful
in the Levant.
Numismatics. — Smyrna is a numis-
matic capital to which coins from all
parts pf A* Minor find their way
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REFERENCE.
t. Kenak (Goeemmsnt House) C 5
а. Municipal Buildings D 5
3. Fire Brigade Tower O 4
4. Telegraph OJUe and Landin g Place. — E 8
5. Imperial Ottoman Bank . E 4
б. Credit Lyonnais. 7 4
7. British Consulate 7 4
a. American „ O 8
9. French „ O 4
so. German „ G 4
is. Mu seum S 4
sa. Grand BeteL 7 4
13. Hotel de la VUU 7 S
>4 Baema-khaneh Railway S tati on 7 6,7
ss. Caraean Bridge Railway Station I 8
s6. Railway Station for Buja K 4
*7. Central OJiee Smyma-Aidin Railway.... E 5
Eur opean Steamb oa t Agendas k Poet ORet* 7 4
18. Tobacco Regia. K 4
Churohoo.
19. St Stephen (Armenian) 7 6,6
to. SL Catherine (Greek) H 6
as. SL Constan ti n „ I.K 8
аа. SL Dimitri „ G 6
83. Agia Phcdni It
•4. SL George E 6
15. St John „ I S
аб. SL John (Apano Mahala), Greek. D 7
ay. Agio Nicola (Greek) H 7
a8» Agio Vuklo O 7
English Church (Protestant) K 4
American „ „ G 6
eg. SL Ccsur de Jesus (R.C.) 7 4
30. SL Jean „ G 4
3s. SL Marie „ E 4
3 a. S S. Pierre et Paul ,, K S
33. SL Polycarpe I t
34. Synagoguse D 6
35. Hisear Joed * D 6
36. British
Hoopttalo.
37. Armenian
38. Roman Catholic . . .
39. French
40. Greek
41. Dutch
43. Jewish.
43. Imperial Ottoman
44. St Roooo
...7 6
. 06
...7 6
H.I t
...7 5
7,0 6
...D 6
.. B 6
G.H 6
Khans. 4c.
45. Beuyxtk Vidor Khan E 5
46. Dervish Oghlu Khan E 5
47. Kuchuk Vizier Khan E 5
48. Brasserie Prokcps K S
49. Armenian Reading Room F 6
Club dee Chasseurs F S
Cafe Luca Saduca. F S
European Casino F 4
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Route 2$.— Smyrna : Mosques .
Greek autonomous and Imperial coins,
Persian, Roman, and some early me-
diaeval ooins may be obtained. Collec-
tors of ooins are numerous, and Mr. A.
Lawson and Mr. Wiedemann have
good collections. There is a Greek
curiosity dealer in the Bezesten who
purchases a great many coins from
ihe natives. The visitor must be on
his guard against forgeries , as there
are expert forgers in the town.
The earliest coins of Smyrna are
tetrad rachms of Lysimachus(Head of
Oybele turreted). Tbe other silver
coins are Alexandrine tetradrachms,
Cistophori (Head of Oybele), and auto-
nomous tetradrachms and drachms.
The Imperial coins range from Augus-
tus to Gallicnus. They bear on their
faces one of the honorary titles of the
city, the representation of a deity, the
Hermus or the Meles, or a Fountain.
The ooins with Homer seated, perhaps
a oopy of a statue in the Homerium,
were called Homerea. The Nemeses,
the seat of whoso worship was at
Smyrna, appear on many doins; on
one two Nemeses arc represented ap-
pearing in a vision to Alexander asleep
Under a plane-tree, and urging him to
found the city of Smyrna. There are
also alliance coins with Athens, and
with many cities of A. Minor.
Mosques. — In tbe Moslem Quarter
there are more than 40 mosques, but
only one of them, the Hissar JamC , is
of any interest This moSque was
built A.H. 1228 (aj>. 1812) on the plan
of the Arab mosques ; it is 100 ft long
and €6 ft wide, and its dome is sup-
ported by some beautiful marble co-
lumns. It was never, as some suppose,
a churoh, though its site may have
been oocupied by a church during the
rule of the Knights of Rhodes. Kes-
tine Bat&r JamC , identified by some
authorities with OhristGhurch, was re-
built some 20 years ago. The slabs
with the Kufle inscriptions, and many
of the marble blocks, were brought
from the great mosque at Ayasolfik.
Churches. — The Greek Cathedral of
p. fkotipiy and the Armenian Catbe-
dral of 8. Stephan, are interesting, and
should be visited. '
Schools. — The Turks have a Ly-
ceum, a girls' school, and schools for
boys ; the Greeks have a gymnasium
and school accommodation for more
than 6600 boys and girls; the Ar-
menians, Jews, Protestants, and R.
Catholics have also schools for both
sexes. At Smyrna there is a much-
frequented English Commercial School;
the Scotch and American Missions have
schools for boys and girls ; at B&ma-
bat there ato an EnglLh school for
boys and one for girls ; and at Big a an
English school for girls.
Orphanages. — There are a Turkish
Orphanage; a Greek Orphanage and
Foundling Hospital for all nationa-
lities ana religions; a IL Catholic
Orphanage, witn dispensary, managed
by Sisters of Charity; and a Pro-
testant Orphanage managed by the
Deaconesses.
Hospitals. ^Tho Turks have a civil
and a military hospital ; the Greeks a
very large, well-managed hospital,
with lying-in #ard« dispensary, Ac.,
in which patients of all religions are
received; the Armenians a hospital
built bv M. Spartali; the Jews a
hospital and dispensary founded in
1831 by Baron 8olomon do Roths-
child ; and the B. Catholics tho large
hospital of 8. Antonio. Tbe English
have a hospital for sailors, and the
Austrians, Dutch , and French have
hospitals--all well -conducted.
Museums, Libraries, As. — Tbe Mu-
seum and Library of the Evangelical
School was founded in 1874 by a
committee of Greek gentlemen. The
Museum contains a large number of
marble sculptures, terra-cottas, glass
objects, inscriptions, and some 15,000
ooins. Deserving of notice are tho
Heads of Aphrodite and Doryphorus
from Tralles, of Augustus when young,
and of Lucius Adius from Ephesus ;
the statue of a Muse, without heed and
feet, from Sardis; a Caryatid figure,
witliouf head^ from Tralles ; .Statue of
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Route 29. — Smyrna : Amusement * .
Baeehus; and one of Arfodn* in a
recumbent position. Amongst the
weights are old Greek weights in lead,
and Byzantine ones in bronze. Some
of the sculptures are in the ohurchyard
of S. Photini ; and some of the inscrip-
tions have been built into the wall of
the girls* school, Home ri urn, where
they can be easily read. The Museum
publishes occasional volumes of Tran-
sactions. The Library contains about
80,000 vole. and 200 MSS. Amongst
the latter are a Testament (10th cent.)
with illuminations and commentary ;
Physiologos , a unique MS. with co-
loured pictures; and Disoorides, an
ancient botanical work with coloured
pictures.
The Armenian School has a library
and small museum. In the garden of
the Ottoman Lyceum, Lyde imperial,
there is a collection of sculptures, Ac.,
including 16 blocks from Teos, repre-
senting centaurs and women ; a lioness
with Hercules as a boy on hor book ;
ahead of Medusa from Caravan Bridge ;
a stele with a bas-relief representing a
lady attended by two servants; nume-
rous Greek and Roman tombstones, a
large number of inscriptions, and
several statues from Magnesia ad
Maeandrum. In the garden of the
Konak , or governor's residence, there
is a colossal statue, without baud, with
Oriental draperies from the Opisthele-
prian gymnasium at Ephesus. There
are also some sculptures in the wall of
the Armenian churchyard.
— The Smyrna*Aidin Railway
the sportsman to get to locali-
ties where there is good shooting. In
winter there are snipe, wood-cow, and
wUd-fowl in abundanoe, and in the fig
season beocafioo. Partridge and hares
are found nearly everywhere, wild boar
in certain localities, and leopard occa-
sionally. A stranger should not go out
shooting without a tezkere, or permit
to ourry arms; and he should oonsult
one of the many resident sportsmen as
to the best places for game.
Water Supply. — Water is brought
from Paradise by aqueducts, and dis-
tributed by lead pipes.. There are
several public fountains in the Turkish
Quarter, but only one or two in the
b&zirs are of interest There are a
large number of artesian wells which
supply very good water, but in most
cases it has to be pumped up.
Cemeteries. — There are a great many
Turkish burial-grounds with oyprous
groves, but those within the city are
not used. The Greek cemetery at the
Point is extensive, and contains somo
interesting monuments, and the
Church of 88. Michael and Gabriel.
The Armenian, Protestant, R. Catholic ,
and Jewish cemeteries are 8. of Cam van
Bridge, on both sides of the railway.
In the British cemetery etc the pyramid
and remains of the soldiers, who died
at Smyrna during the Crimean War,
whioh were originally on the hill above
the old Jewish oemetery.
Ann— meats. — During tho carnival
time tho Casinos give subscription balls
for some benevolent object. In summer
there are French plays and Italian
operas intbe Alhambra garden theatre,
and Greek comedies at the Thdltre dee
Quais. There is also music, some of it
good, at the oaf—. In winter there are
occasional concerts at the casinos, and
© lays at one of the oafds. Ouoe a year,
the Thursday after G reek Easter, there
are horse races at Baja. The Dancing
(MevUvi) Dervishes have a Tekke in
the upper Turkish town, and the
' M m di ng Dervishes in the Armenian
wrter. _
Baafcrs, Rhine. — The bazirs, though
not so extensive as those of Constan-
tinople, are well worth a visit A guide
is necesea ry. The only khin of in-
tcrost is the large Visier Khdn .
Trade. — The discovery of America
and of the Gape route to India ruined
the trade of Smyrna, and it only began
to re vivo at the ond of the 16th oent
The Dutch monopolised the trade for
a long time, but towards the close of
the 17th oeut England supplanted
Holland, and tho I ^ rant Company
exploited the oomiuercv of A. Minor.
Austria took pajrt in tho trade iq tho
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Route 29. — Smyrna.* Excursions.
18th cent, and Franoe, Switzerland,
and Germany in the early part of the
19th cent The Smyrna bade reoeiyed
a great impetus from the Crimean
War, and the town is now the trade-
centre of the islands of the Turkish
archipelago, and of the richest districts
of A. Minor. The port is one of the
finest and safest of the Mediterranean,
and it has a large harbour that oan be
entered in all weathers.
The export s, of which nearly half go
to Great Britain, are valued at oyer
8) millions; the imports, of whieh
Great Britain supplies about 80 per
cent, are yalued at over 8 millions.
Smyrna is the chief seat of the trade
in figs, raisins, valonea, opium, drugs,
and sponges; and before the rise of
New Orleans it was a great cotton
port Figs, a speciality of Smyrna,
are grown in the Mae&nder Valley,
The ouring of them is a Smyrna mys-
tery which may be seen performed, by
men and women, in the fig-houses in
September and October. Raisins come
next in importance. The best sponges
ore found in the Spomdcs, and tho
supplies oome from Rhodes, Syme,
and Kalymnos. There are fiye kinds
in oommeroe, and about one-third of
the supply goes to England. The
tea* of Smyrna, which ismuch esteemed
for its purity and whiteness, oomes
from the wooded districts of Melas,
Mughla, 8a tali a, and Rhodes.
Tne silk trade, which almost died
out in consequence of the silkworm
disease, has commenced to revive since
the inttfduction of new seed. Liquo-
rice root and paste oome from 8okia
and Nasli. Madder-root has been little
grown since the introduction of aniline
ayes. Wool and hides come from the
interior, fend Turkey carpets and rugs
from Ushak, Gilrdiz, ana other towns;
Leeches are largely exported to Aus-
tria, France, and Italy. Emery is
brought from Sokia; Axizieh, and Kos-
bunar;. and antimony , chrome , and
iron ore are also exported.
The industrial production is small.
Silk, hOlfsiUt, and cotton stuffs are
manufactured for local use, and the
home-made lace, point de Smyme, is
good. The helva, a sweetmeat made
with honey and sesam, is famous, and
is exported to Greeoe and Russia;
pebnes . and macoaroni are also^made.
Soap is extensively manufactured ;
furniture is made on a large scale;
and there are ironworks at tne Point,
saw-milts, where the wood for the fig-
boxes is prepared, gas works at tne
Point, managed by an English com-
pany, and an ice manufactory on the
road to Bhmabat
The principal imports from Engluud
are cotton goods, woollen dotlis, cali-
coes, linen, ooffee, sugar, potatoes,
butter, leather, ooal, iron, iron-ware,
petroleum, Ac. The merchants havo
a Bourse and a Central Hall for mer-
cantile transactions.
Railways. — Two lines of railway,
one following the course of the Maen-
der, the other that of the Hermus, run
eastward from Smyrna. The Ottoman
Railway runs to Ayasoluk (Ephesus),
Aidin, and Dineir, and has branch
lines to Odemish, Sokia, Denizli, and
Ohivril. The same oompany also works
the suburban lines to Bdtja and Seidi
Keui. The Smyrna and Kassaba
Railway runs to Kassaba and Ala-
shehr (Philadelphia), and has a branch
line to Ak-hissar (Tliynteira) and
Soma. The Oompany also works the
suburban line to B&rnabat
Excursions. — (l.) A picturesque and
interesting walk, up the Valley of 8.
Anne, to Paradise, following the new
road that skirts the foot of Mt Pagus.
Return by rail from Paradise station.
(2.) A walk to Halka-Bftnar ( well
of the ring), or IHana’s Bath, less than
a mile beyond Caravan Bridge, The
road runs E., on the L the Church of
Constantine and Helena, and the
Gherman Wein-kdlerei, on . the hill
of Tepejik ; on the rt. the French
Orphanage of 8. Joseph, Many ancient
tombs havo been found along this road,
and early in tho 18th oent. some sepul-
chral monuments could still be seen.
At the fountain, rt., the road to Kuk-
lujft turns off ; and a little farther, L,
is 11 Diana’s bath.” in private pounds,
to which there is always admission.
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Route 29 .—Smyrna : Excursions.
The spring, the moat probable source
of the Males, is a large one, and its
waters are dammed up, so as to form
a pond, whence a steady stream runs
off to drive a mill. Many fragments
of marble have been found here, in-
cluding a status of Diana — hence the
name. The supply is nearly constant
summer and winter. Behind a cottage
opposite to the entrance is a sarco-
phagus with sculpture in relief.
(8.) To Old Smyrna (5 hrs.). Luncheon
should be taken. By steamer, looal
line, to Bariakli , and thence walk
along the shore-road to Aaia Triada;
here leave the country houses and
gardens to the 1., and make for the
valley to tho N., following a stony
toad, Petrota . A rough ridge of rooks
soon comes into sight ; this is reached
by two flights of steps out in the rock
on the N. side. On the top is an exca-
vation, about G ft long, whioh is sup-
posed to have been a tomb or sacrificial
ditch. The walls surrounding the area
should be examined. The road now
runs along the ridge, half an hour's
hard work, to the Aoropolis, about
120 ft. long and 60 ft wide, with walls
of Cyclopean masonry. It is ap-
proached on tho E. by a remarkable
gate , in a massive wall, which was laid
bare by M. Texier, in 18 GO. In the
interior was a quadrangular building
where fragments of tiles and pottery
were found. At the N.E. corner is a
sort of tower, and the N. wail shows
various modes of construction. The
ditch close by was a reservoir pro-
tected by a wall on the outside. On
the E. there is a t called enclosure in
front of the oastle. The view is very
fine, and almost equal to that from
Mt Pagus. The site is identified with
the 8myrnaofthe Aeolians by Hamil-
ton. Ramsay, Ourti us, Kieport,Hir»ch-.
fold, and others. Below the Acropolis,
on a small level space, is a pool about
SOft long, ofteu dry, which Texier
supposed to bo Lake Matos (p. 81).
Continuing along the ridge, towards
the 8.E., {the monument, odled by
Texier theTomb of Tantalus, is reached.
It is a circulur tumulus , 112 ft in dia-
meter. The masonry at tho base is ft*
fine specimen of the polygonal style.
The internal vault,expmmi hy Texier’s
excavations, is interesting. It is simi-
lar to the vault of the “ Treasury of
Atreus,” at Mycenae, in which the
stones of each successive course pro-
ject beyond those below until they
meet in the oentre ; the comers of the
stones have been out away to leave a
smooth surface. Plans, <fcc., in Texier’s
Asie Mineure , and Q. Weber's le Sipylos
et see Monuments. There is a rival
“ Tomb of Tantalus " in the Hermus
valley J hr. E. of the Niobe monu-
ment (p. 821
On the hillside, towards the Bfirna-
bat plain, there are 44 partially de-
stroyed tombs , near some of which lie
the phalli that surmounted them.
The isolated hill, with a farm on it,
was once an island protecting the har-
bour of old Smyrna, which is now
filled with silt brought down by a
stream that some writers regard as
the original Mdes.
Visitors afraid of the climb to the
Acropolis cau proceed direct to the
Tomb of Tantalus from Bariakli.
Near Bfirnabat, M. Weber has found
another large fort with round towers
at tho angles. The interesting ruins
of Ada, and some rook-cut inscriptions
of Mormonda , are 3 hrs. N. from the
shore.
(4.) To B&mabat and the HiU of
Bd-kahvch. Rail to Bfimabat, a
charming summer resort of the Srnyr-
niotee. Some of the villas with their
gardens are very picturesque, and
those who wish to see what the
fashionable life of Smyrna is like
should visit the place on a summer's
evening. There are an English Church
built by Mr. C. Whittall, and English
schools; a R. 0. Church and girls'
school ; and a Creek Church andBohool.
The mediaeval name was Prinobaris,
but some remains in tho mosque and
Turkish cemeteries prove a previous
Roman occupation. The Turkish
name is from Bumu Ova. On the
oolumn in the mosque there is an
interesting inscription praising the
heoliug powers of tho river-god Moles*
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 30.-
From B&rnabat it is a 2 bn.’ car-
riage drive through the villages of
NarU and Hajjilar to Bd-kahveh,
the Cafi in the pass that leads to
Nif % anct Nymphaeum. Half way
up the hill is some fine Cydopean
masonry. The old town occupied the
summit, bat only traces of the walls
and the Aoropolis remain. The view
from this point over the plain of Bftr-
nabat and the Golf of Smvroa, on
one side, and over the Valley of
Nymphaeum on the other, is very
beautiful. Return direct to Smyrna
bv Bunar-bashi, IshOeler , Kukliya, and
Diana's bath. This excursion may be
combined with a visit to Nymphaeum,
and the so-called Sesostris monument
(5.) Ascent of the Two Brothers
(1 day). By tmm or carriage through
the suburbs of Kara-tash, and Geus
Tope, to Kogar-yali ; thence on horse-
back or on foot, at first through fine
olive groves, passing, 1., the Baths of
Agamemnon. The ascent is from Narlt-
dere by an easy path, which runs just
below the two summits. On the south-
ern and higher of the two peaks is a
primitive Moslem tomb. The view is
extensive — Samos, Iuaria, Chios, Mity-
leue, the peninsula of Erythroe, tho
Gulf of Smyrna, and tho plain of
Menemen lie, spread out like a map,
at the feet of the spectator.
-Menemen. 79
British enterprise, was commenced iu
1864 and opened as far as Alw-shehr
in 1878. A branch line from Manias
to Ak-hissar and Soma haw since
been opened. The Smyrna terminus
is
Basms-khinsh Station, on leaving
which the line soon enters the gardens
and orange-groves that border the
town. After crossing the so-called
stream, usually dry, wrongly called
Moles near Caravan Bridge, and the
Smyrna-Aidin Railway, it runs over
marshy ground to the eastern end of
the Gulf of Smyrna, and leaving
Bftroabat with iu pleasant houses ana
gardens to the rt, winds round the
foot of the Yamanlar D. t on which are
the Tomb of Tantalus, and tho ruins
of Old 8myrna (p. 78). The line
here keeps close to the sea-shore,
affording fine views of 8myrna and
the S. shore of the Gulf, but the hills
gradually recede as we approach
Gordelio (6f m.), a pretty village on
the coast, which is a favourite summer
resort of the Smyrniotes. Beyond
Cordelio the line keeps to the foot of
the hills on the rt., and has on the L
the great level plain that has been
formed by the Heroins. Bart of the
plain is rich corn-land, but the pyra-
mids of salt, so conspicuous in the
distance, show the existence of large
salines nearer the sea. As we advance*
tho hills on the rt become lower, and
after passing tho small stutions of
Chigli (4 m.) and BluJak (4) m.) the*
line runs through an opening in the-*
low hills to
ROUTE 30.
SMYRNA t- MAN ISA — SART— ALA’
SHEHR, BT BAIL.
MIIJM.
Mtneioen lit
lfantu {Magnesia ad Sipylum) . 41
' Kama ha S8
Sart (Sardis) 76»
, AU^webr (PkUaddphia) . . . 106
j The Smyrna— Ala - shehr Rail may t
the construction of which is duo to
Kenemsn (4 m.\ a large town witlr
fine gardens and fig orchards. It has
taken the place of the ancient Temnos,
which is deserted. It rose to import-
ance in late Byzantine times, but
there are no objects of interest Be-
ond Menemeil the line follow^ the
bank of the Cedis Chai , anct Hermus*-
which runs between prettily-wooded
hills to Amir Alsm (44 m.\ opposite
which are tho ruins of Temnos. Soon
afterwards it . enters a rockv defile,
Menemen Boghas , through which the
Digitized by ^.ooQle
80
Route 30 .— Manisa.
river runs. Tlie pass opens out on to ocoupied by Timur, who rnude it the
the wide-spreading, fruitful Hyreanian depot for the plundered wealth of
Plain, and the line, keeping near the Smyrna, Sardis, and Thyuteira. After
foot of the range of Mt. Sipylus on the retreat of Timfcr it oame again
the rt, runs through cornfields and into the hands of the Osmanlis. In
vineyards to Hamidieh, or Giaour K. 1419 it was the scene of a dangerous
(11 in.); Horos X. (44 m.), with a insurrection raised by a fanatic, Bodr-
emall church to which the Greeks ed-din, who preached poverty, equal-
make a pilgrimage on the day of S. ity, and community of goods, and was
Anastasia, early in May ; and mined by Moslems, Greeks, and Jews.
Bedr-ed-din was defeated by Prince
Manisa, Magnesia ad Sivylum (1 J Murad, who afterwards, as Murad II.,
in.). The town lies at the foot of built a palace in the town, to which
ML Sipylus about } m. from the Slat., he retired after his two abdications,
at which omnibuses and carriages Manisa was much favoured by the
wait the arrival of the trains. It is early Sultans, some of whom, as Bulei-
the capital of the Suru-khftn Sanjuk, man I., and Murud III., had resided
aud residence of a Mutcssarif. in the town as governors of the prin-
The Origin of Magnesia is doubtful, cipality of Saru-kh&n before coming
but its coius show that the people to the throne. Murad IIL (1500-74)
attributed its foundation to the Ama- built a large mosque, with an imaret^
zone. Under the Seleucids it became and medresse, a bath and a khdn
an important town, and it was beneath whioh still exist, At a later period
its walls that Antioohus the Great was Manisa became the residence of the
defeated, b.o. 190, by the two Scipios powerful Dere Bey family of Kara
in the memorable txittle that mode Osman Oghlu, whoso bead, known as
the Romans supreme in A. Minor. In “ Prinoe of Karamania,” ruled the
the reign of Tiberius the town was oountry almost independently of the
nearly destroyed bv an earthquake. Porte. The family lived in prinoely
Goins show that it flourished down to state until 1822, when Mahmftd II.
the third century, and in later Byzan- abolished the feudal ohiefs. The Kara
tine times it was one of the greatest Osman of thut day submitted to the
cities in Western Anatolia, hi 1204, Sultau and saved his estates; and
when the Orusadors established the members of the family still live at
Latin Empire at Constantinople, John Manisa, who are large landowners,
Ducas took possession of Magnesia, and have a high reputation for hospi-
and, after he succeeded Theodore Las- tality
caris, made it the seat of government The modern town contains many
of the Byzantine Empire. The rapid traces of its importance under the
conquests of the 8eljfiks, who in 1801-2 SeljQka and early Osmanli Sultans,
ravaged UieHermus Valley and threat- though the Epicurean retreat of
enea Magnesia, induced the Emperor Murad II. with its beautiful gardens
Andronicus to call in the aid of tho has disappeared. There are over 20
Catalans under Roger de Flor. In mosques, of which the more important
1305 the people of Magnesia massoored are: tne EM Jam?, built by l*hak
the Catalans in the city and seized Chelebi, son of Saru Kh&u, in which
the treasure which Roger had placed the carving of the mimber , pulpit,
in the citadel for safety. The city should be noticed; the Muradiyeh ,
was at once besieged, but it withstood built by Murad II., which has fine
all theussanlts of the Spaniards, who Persian tiles, stained glass windows,
were obliged to raise the siege. Eight two minarets, an imdret, a medresse ,
years later, however, it was taken by and a library ; and a mosque, with a
the Selj&ks under Sara Kh&n, who minaret decorated with coloured tiles,
made it the oapital of his principality. which was once a ohurch. In the
In 1898 it submitted to the Osmanli court of the last are fragments of
Sultan Bayezid I. ; but in 1402 it was columns and capitals ; at one door are .
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 30.— ManUa.
81
some defaced Greeds inscriptions , and
in the mosque itself a curious Genoese
clock. Other building* are : the
Palate of Kara Orman Oghlu; the
Konak, or Government house ; the
Teikke of the Mevlevl dervishes, built
by Ishak Ohelebi, whose head ranks
next to the Ohief of the Order at
Konia ; a lunatic asylum, founded by
Murad IIL, and rebuilt in 1884 by
Sururi Effendi, then Governor ; a fine
hhdn built by Murad II., and a large
public bath. There are a few remain*
of the citadel
Manisa is the seat of a Greek
bishop, a very prosperous station of
the American Mission, and an impor-
tant commercial oentre. It has a
ootton spinning factory, and the sur-
rounding district produces good grapes,
tobacco, cotton, Ao. It Is famous for
its kaimak, dotted oream, and its
bazirs are always well supplied.
There is an fa*, and good quarters
can be obtained in private houses.
There is a resident British Consular
Agent, and the .Imperial Ottoman
Bank has a branch in the town. Coins ,
of whioh 180 are given in Mionnet,
can sometimes be obtained. No one
should omit a walk to PldHnistria . —
a cafe, on the bank of a torrent, shaded
by gigantic plane trees. Smyrna can
be reached in 6 hrs. by a path over the
Sabanja Bel
About 4 m. E. of Manisa, on the
northern slope of Sipylus, are “ many
traces of a very ancient city, — sepul-
chral tumuli, rock-cut tombs, and a
small acropolis perched high on an
almost inaccessible peak. On both
sides of it are the sanctuaries of its
religion : on the W. a rook-cut image
of Cybele, on the E. the hot springs
and sacred cave of a god called by the
Greeks Apollo.” The image of Cybele,
whioh is generally known as the lfiobe,
Surat Task, 44 stone bust,” is at a con-
siderable height above the road that
runs up the Hermus valley, snd a
rough scramble is necessary to reach
it. The figure is in a niche about
80 ft. high, and is that of s woman of
oolossal size, seated on a throne with
hands laid on her breast The legs
and feet, or perhaps the two hills on
[Turkey.]
which the feet are plaoed, are rudely
indicated. The whole is, however, so
roughly sculptured and So weather-
worn, that it has in great measure to
be montally restored. Water does not
trickle down the face after rain and
give the appearanoe of tears, as has
sometimes been stated. In a niche on
the 1. hand of the figure, and on a
level with its head, are some “ Hittite”
symbols, first notioed by Mr. G.
Dennis, which make it certain that
the image is one of a series that ex-
tends from Oappadooia over Phrygia
and Lydia down to the jEgean Sea.
The figure Is doubtless the very
ancient statue of the Mother of the
Gods, made by Broteaa,son of Tantalus,
which is mentioned by Peusanias. It
does not appear to bo that writer’s
figure of Niobe, though it may be the
Niobe of whom Homer sang :
Upon arid 8lpyloa, upon the rocks of tho
desert mountain .... Niobe, though turned
to etone, still broods over the sorrows the godt
hare sent upon her.
And Ovid says:
She weens still, and, borne by the hurricane of
, a mighty wind,
She Is swept to her boms. There, fastened to
the cliff of the mount,
8be weeps, and tbs marble sheds tears era
now.
About } m. E. of the Niobe, the
mountain wall of Sipylus is cleft by
a ravine about 100 ft. wide, from
which issues a little stream. The
sides are perpendicular, and on a
curious crag, standing out from the L
bonk, is a rook-fortress, closely re-
sembling that near the Tomb of
Midas, which was first brought to
notioe by Herr Hnmann. “Chi the
top are numerous rock-cuttings, 7 or 8
large bell-shaped cisterns, 20 or 30
beds for the foundations of houses
such as are oommon on the rooky hills
of Athens, and in some places a para-
pet wall about 8 ft. bigb, out out of
the solid rock along the edge of tho
dizky precipice.” On the highest
point there Is a square-cut hole that
looks like a large , seat, which is
possibly the Throne of Pelops, of Pan-
sanias. The tiny lake beneath the
Niobe Is apparently ; the Lake Saloi
Q
Digitized by
Google
82
Route 30 . — Kamaba — Sart.
in which the city of Tantalus dis-
appeared. 300 yas. E of the ravine,
beyond some artificial tumuli , is ft
vpry beautiful tomb cut in a sloping
rock at the foot of the mountain.
This tomb, and not that beneath Old
Smyrna (p. 78), is apparently the
Tomb of Tantalus. } m. E. of the
tomb is a hot spring, which was a holy
place, and probably the seat of Apollo
iv nirioif, one of the gods by whom
the Magnesians swore.
Soon after passing the Niobe the
range of Mt. Sipylus terminates
abruptly, and near its E end is
Ohoban-isa,“ Shepherd Jesus" (81 m.).
Thence, after crossing the Nif Ghat ,
and the broad open valley through
which it flows to the Hermus, the
line runs on to
Kassaba (8J m.), a large town with
a considerable trade. It is the centre
of a ooUon district, and is celebrated
for the excellence of its melons . The
baz&rt are good, and in the Christian
Quarter there are some cotton factories.
Fragments of ancient marble that have
been found indicate that Kaaaaba oc-
cupies an ancient site. The line con-
tinues up the valley to Urganli (7J m.),
and, after passing two small tumuli (rt.),
Ahmedli (5} m.). Here a good view
is obtained of the Necropolis of
Sardis (L), with the tumuli. Bin
Tope, of the ancient kings of Lydia.
After leaving Ahmedli, the hills on
the rt are prettily broken into sharp
peaks, and fine views, up and down
the valley, are obtained as the train
approaches
Sart, Sardis (6 m.). Sardis is said
to have been fortified by a king Moles,
who reigned before the revolution that
led to the murder of Oandaulea, and
£ laoed Gyges and the dynasty of the
[ermnadae on the throne. In the
reign of Ardvs, son of Gyges, the town
was taken by the Cimmerians, but
the citadel resisted all attaoks. The
Cimmerians were driven out by
Alyattes, under whose son, Croesus,
the last Lydian king, the city attained
its greatest prosperity. It was famous
for its fruit*, its woollen stuffs, and
gold ornaments, and to it the Spartans
sent to purchase gold to gild the face
of the Apollo of Amydae. The gold
is said to have been fumisheid by the
sand of the Pactolus^ a stream which
came down from Tmolua, and ran
tlirough the agora by the side of tho
temple of Cybele. Its commercial
importance was very great, and it was
the first town \o mint gold and silver
coins. Croesus was defeated by Cyrus
on the plain in front of the town, and,
after sustaining a 14 days' siege in the
citadel, was taken by the Modes.
After the overthrow of the Lydian
jnonarchy Sardis became the residence
of the principal Persian satrap. When
Artaphernes, brother of Darius, wa*
satrap, the Ionians revolted, and,
assisted by an Athenian army, took
the pity, but were unable to obtain
possession of the citadel. On this
occasion the town and its publio
buildings, including tho temple of
Cybele, were burned This attack led
to the invasion of Greeoe by Xerxes,
who assembled his troops at Sardis
before his march to tho Hellespont.
It was also from Sardis that Cyrus the
younger marched against his brother
Artaxerxes. The town submitted to
Alexander, and after his death came
first into possession of Anti^onus, and
the murder of Seleucus Ceraunus,
Achaeus, who had proclaimed himself
king, was besieged by Anliochus the
Great. The citadel only fell after a
year's siege when Lagoras, the Cretan,
scaled the walls at an unguarded
point. After the battle of Magnesia,
Sardis submitted to the two Soipios;
and when the province Asia was
founded in 133, it became the capital of
a oonventus. It was partly destroyed
by the earthquake in the reigu of
Tiberius, and rebuilt by order of the
Emperor.
Sardis is of peculiar interest as one
of the “ Seven Churches of Asia" to
which S. John wrote, and a reference
to the voluptuous habits of the Lydians
is perhaps intended in Bev. iii. 4.
The town was ravaged by the Goths,
and at a mnoh later date by the Seljfik
Turks. In 1301 the citadel was
Digitized by
Google
Route 80. — Ala-shehr.
83
divided into two forts— one held by
Greek, the other by Seljflk troops. It
afterwards passed into tbe hands of
Bern Khan ; but in 1402 it was de-
stroyed by Timur, and has never since
recovered. The#© are now* only a
small miserable village, and the tents
of wandering Yuruks.
The ruins of the city are on the
lower slopes of the hill upon which
stood the triple-walled acropolis built
by Melcs. The hill rises 950 ft. above
the plain, hnd Jit is an hour’s hard
scramble to reach tbe summit from the
station. The view over the Gvgaean
Lake and the plain is magnificent i
but the remains are those of the Byzan-
tine fortress. The walls were built
with old material, and there are several
fragments of friezes, oornioes, Ac.;
sptue mutilated inscription * ; and some
blocks on which grotesque figures are
carved. Hie hill has for centuries
been gradually crumbling away under
the action of the weather, and it is now
impossible to distinguish the path by
which tbe Median soldier nsocndod,or
that followed by the Cretan ofiloer
of Antioohus. The buildings of the
ancient city are partially buried by
the soil washed down from the acro-
polis hill ; but on the N. side may be
seen the ruins of a gymnasium, and on
the N.E. those of a stadium, and of a
theatre of the Roman period. There
are also the remains of two Byzantine
Churches in which are many sculptured
fragments. The most interesting ruin
is that of the great Temple of Oybele,
of which two columns alone are stand-
ing. It is of the Ionio order and
possibly of the time of Alexander.
The temple is 40 min. walk from the
station, and is reached by following
the course of the Pactolus through the
deep ravine that separates the acro-
polis hill from Mt. Tmolus. Of the
agora, through whioh tho stream ran,
thero is no trace.
Accommodation, can be obtained at
the Ely. Stat, and the Kavfts acts as
guide and guard.
The necropolis of Sardis, Bin Tepe,
is on the rt* bunk of the Hormus and
abdut 2 hrs.' ride from Bart. Ill late
spring' and summer the river can be
forded about 4 m. from the station ;
but at other times a long detour to the
E. is necessary. The Neoropolis con-
sists of a great number of large and
smell tumuli , whioh stand on a terrace,
between the Hermus and theGygaean
Lake, Mermere Oeul , whence there is
a commanding view over the plain.
The largest tumulus is that of
Alyattes, described by Herodotus,
which is ciroular in form and about
880 yds. in diameter. Excavations
have shown that the tomb had been
previously Opened and rifled. Other
tumuli have been examined, but no-
thing of importance has been brought
to light On the 8. shore of the lake
are the foundations of the temple of
the Gygaean Artemis, and a cause -
u>ay ; and in two plaoes there are re-
mains of Ldeustrine dwellings. There
is a settlement of Slavs from S. Russia,
who left their homes in the time of
Catherine, and still preserve their
features, complexion, and language.
They have boats on the lake, and ore
engaged in the valuable carp fishery.
After passing Sardis the line enters
the valley of the Kusu Choi, anot.
Cogamus, a tributary of the Hermus
ana, keeping close to the foot of the
range of Tmolus, runs through Balikli
(5} m.), a plaoe of importance os a
starting-point of caravans for the in-
terior, to Xonavak Kahveh (6| m.l
Dare Xeui (6$ m.), Alkan (4| m.), and
Ala-shthr, the M spotted city,” anot
Philadelphia (5} m.). Philadelphia
was built by Attains IL, Philadel-
f hus, of Pergmmutn (B.a 159-188).
t occupied an important position in
the valley of the Cogamus , near the
pass tlirough which ran the road from
the valley of the Hermus to that of
the Maeander ; and Was called “ Little
Athens " on acoount of its festivals
and temples. (Jlirislianity flourished
at an early period, and it was one of
the “ Seven Churches” addressed by
S. John (Rev. iii 7). The voloanio
soil was very favourable to the growth
of the vine, and the soundness of the
wine produced is oelebrated by Virgil.
a 2
Digitized by
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84
Route 81. — Ak-hisear.
The town raftered greatly from violent
ebooks of earth<fiaake, and daring the
great earthquake of Tiberias, it was
almost levelled with the ground. In
the later Byzantine time it was a
great and warlike city, and a frontier
fortress against the Torka In 1190
it was occupied by the Emperor
Frederic, who fought a battle near
it against the Byzantines. In 1804
it was besieged by the Beljdks, and
rednoed to such extremities that the
blood of a sheep or a pig was sold
for a byzant The siege was raised
by Roger de Flor and his Oatalana
In 1323 it was again besieged by the
Selj&ks, and reduced to the last
extremity by famine before it was re-
lieved by Alexius Philanthropenus.
After this it was cut off from the
central administration of the Byzan-
tine Empire, and as a neutral city,
surrounded by the territories of hostile
Emirs, attained considerable com-
mercial importance. In 1890 it sur-
rendered to Bayezid I., in whose army
was a Greek contingent commanded
by the Emperor Monuol II. Iu 1402
the town was ravaged by Timfir, who
is said to have erected a wall of
the bones of slaughtered prisoners,
the site of which is still shown.
Ala-tkehr stands partly on a terreoe
beneath the range of ML Tmolus,
and partly on lower shelving ground.
Two streams that have cut through the
terraoe mark the limits of the ancient
town. On the terrace are the ruins of
a cattle, and of toallt of mediaeval
date, which extend to the lower
ground, and a moss of briokwork near
the Kondk is said to be part of an
ancient cJturck . There are also many
fragments of columns, Ac. In the
lower part of the town, and also in a
valley running back into the heart of
the hills, there are large gardens.
There is a liquorice manufactory ; and
small quantities of attar of roses are
mode. The hot tpringt mentioned by
Byzantine writers ore still muoh used.
Alo-shehr is the seat of a Greek bishop,
and about one-fourth of the population
is Greek.
ROUTE 81.
SMYRNA— THYATKIRA—PCRQAMUM
—SMYRNA.
ass.
Manias (Magnesia). by
Rail. .
Si
A k-htaaar < ThyaUira\
by Rail
1
Soma ( Germe\ by Hail
. #
1
Bargain* (Pergamum)
.
s
Menemen .
. ,
14*
Smyrna, by Rail.
•
If
From Manisa (Rte. 80) a branch
line runs N. over the Hyrcanian plain,
and, omasing the Hermus by a fine
bridge, keeps to the right bank of the
Kum Chat , anct. Hyllut. The stations
are Kara-agachli. Saru-khinli, or
Sarhanli; — at Papatli, 2 hrs. E. of
the station are the ruins of Hyroania.
Xikhaili. Kaishlar. Kspakli
Palamut , once an important station
on the military road from Smyrna
to Constantinople, is 1} lira, to the
1., and near It are the ruins of
ApoUonit, re- founded by Attalus II.
2 lira, to the rt. of Kapakli, beside
the villages Bei-ova and Sas-ova, are
the ruins of Hierocaetarea , where the
cultus of Artemis Peraica is said to
have been founded by Cyrus.
Ak-hissar, Thyateira (2 hrs. by
rail.), a large town of mud houses, on
the Qeurdeuk Cltai , ancL Lycut , a
tributary of the Hyllus, which is
almost hidden from view by the luxu-
riant vegetation of its gardens. Thya-
tcira, the “ town " of Thya, was origi-
nally called Pelopia, and Semiramia.
It was peopled with a Macedonian
colony by the Seloucid kings in tlio
3rd oentury B.a It became an im-
portant place, and Antioch us the
Great was camped before it when the
two Scipioe landed in Asia. After
the defeat of Antiochus it was given
to Per gam urn. Thyateira was one
of the 8even Churches (Rev. it 18),
and one of its inhabitants, Lydia, is
mentioned in Acts xvi. 14. Many
buildings were erected by Osracalla,
but nothing now remains in a perfect
Digitized by ^.ooQle
85
Bouts 31 -
state. On a slight elevation are the
ruins of a temple, and there are broken
column*, sarcophagi. , and inscription*
in the houses. Near the town are the
ruins of the castle, from which it takes
its modem name.
Ak-hissar is unhealthy in summer,
when fever, due to a large marsh in
front of the town, is very prevalent
Half the population is Christian
(Greek and Armenian), end there are
a few Jews. A road, following the
line of the Roman road, runs from
Thyateira by Mermere and Bin Tape
(p. 83) to Sardis in 9 hrs.
[On the Kftm Chai, about 87 m.
from Ak-hissar is Gttrdis, where the
best prayer carpets are mode.]
The railway runs over the plain to
Buleimanli, and then crosses the low
ridge between the waters of the Hyllus
. ana those of the Caicus. Boon after
passing Xh&nli, the fine village of
Bakir, Nacrasa , is seen at the foot of
the hills to the 1., and the line then
runs on to
Xirk agaeh, Chliara , prettily situ-
ated at the foot of the limestone
hills. It has 8 cotton factories, and
has a good trade in cotton, cereals,
dried fruits, and honey. Coal has
been found in the hills behind the
town. The population is mixed,
Moslem, Armenian, Greek, and Jew.
The station is on the rich plain, down
which the line continues to Boghas
Xahveh and
Soma, Oerme (2 hrs. by rail.), situ-
ated on the side of the hill beneath
the ruins of a castle. Here, in 1804,
Roger de Flor defeated the Beljfik
army on his way to relieve Phila-
delphia. The station, the present
terminus of the branoh line, is on the
rt. bank of the Caicus. The rood
onward runs down the broad valley
of tho Caicus, now Bakir Chai , through
a beautiful country to Xinik (5 hrs.),
and Poirajik ; and as it approaches •
Bergama, Pergamum, (3 hrs.), fine
views are obtained of the steep and
rocky conical hill which rises to a
height of 1000 ft. above the town.
Bergama .
On either side of this natural fortress
— the site, no doubt, of the first settle-
ment, and in later times the Acropo-
lis of Pergamum — a stream runs down
from the North. On the W., the*
Bergama Chai , anok Sdinus, flows
through the latter, Roman town;
whilst on the E. the Kestd Chai , anot.;
Gctiu*, washes its walls.
The Pergamenians regarded them-
selves as the descendants of Greek
colonists from Arcadia, who settled
in Asia under the Heradid Tele*
phus, and derived their name from
Pergamus, a son of Pyrrhus. The
latter, it was said, came to Perm-
mum with his mother, Andromache,
and assumed the sovereignty of Teu-
thrania after a single combat with its
ruler Arius. Alter Alexander’s death
Pergamum belonged to Lysimachus,
who deposited 9000 talents in it,
under the guardianship of Philetaerus
of Tium. On the defeat and death of
Lysimachus, Philetaerus (b.o. 283-263),
mode use of the treasure to found
an independent Hellenic dynasty,
that of the Attalids, at Pergamum.
Under his nephews, Bumenes I.
(263-241) and Attains L (241-197),
the kingdom, as the result of
much hard fighting, was consolidated
and enlarged. Attains I., after de-
feating the Gauls, took the title of
king, and added Mysia, Lydia, Caria,
Pamphylia, and Phrygia to his king-
dom. Me it was who enlarged the
town, and by oreoting magnificent
buildings made it the most beautiful
city in the East. Under his son and
successor, Bumenes II. (191-159), the
most illustrious of the Attalid lungs,
Pergamum was at the zenith of its
power. He assisted the Romans
against Antioch us, and was liberally
rewarded, acquiring immense wealth,
which he devoted to the encourage-
ment of aft and learning. He adorned
Ids capital with stately buildings, and
foundod tho oelobratod library, con-
taining 200,000 volumes, which were
afterwards 1 given by Antony to
Cleopatra. Eumenes was also the
builder of the Zeus altar, 40 ft high,
which was ornamented with sculptures
representing the battle of the Gods
Digitized by Tooele
pbbgamuh. (From Plan by Dr. Karl Humane.)
1. Temple of JulU. I 6. Bysenttae Church. I. Church.
2. Temple of Borne end Augusta*. • 6. Temple of Athene. 10. Greet Terrece.
3. Library. I 7. Ionic Temple. [ 11. Alter of Zeus.
4 . Stoee. 1 $. Tbeetre. 1 12. Temple of Dionysus.
made the Bomans hia heir. After hi® on hia defeat, b.o. 129, it became a
death (188), the kingdom waa aeixed Roman Province. The town flourished
by hia natural won^ ArUtonioxu ; and under live Roraana, and it ia called by
Digitized by ^.ooQle
87
Route 81 .- — Bergamo, : ' Temph$„
Pliny “the most celebrated town in
Asia.” It was noted for its ointment*,
its pottery, and its parchment — a name
domed from Pergamnm. It early
embraoed Christianity, and was one of
the seren ohnrohes addressed by S.
John (Bey. iii. 2-17). In A.d. 1804
it passed into the hands of the Selj&k
Emir Karasi, from whom it was taken
by the Osmanlis, under Orkhan’s son
Suleiman, in 1886.
The Acropolis. Horses or donkeys
can be hired by those who are unable
to make the ascent on foot The
approach to the Acropolis, upon which
Herr Humanu carried out his remark-
able excavations for the German
Government (1879-86), is from the
side of the Cetius, and commences
below the Armenian Cemetery. The
path winds up to the Roman wall, to
whioh the Turks have added Several
towers, and follows it to a Roman
gateway. After passing through this
it turns 8., and soon reaches the site
of an old gate in the wall of Attains,
whenoe it runs W.. along the ancient
street, to a point that affords a fine
view over the town and the valley of
the Caious as far as the Gulf of Elaea.
Beneath this point are the “ Demeter
Terrace," and, further east, the ruins
of a fine Gymnasium of the Roman
period. The path now turns N., and
rises steadily to the first terrace on
whioh are the ruins of the Agora, with
its basdr, and, on the N.W. side,
the foundations of the small Temple of
Dionysus (12). On the same level as
the Agora is the great “ Theatre
Terrace" flO). which runs along the
slope of the nill. On this are the
ruins of a small church (9); of the
Theatre (8), whioh is supposed to have
had a scene of wood; and of an Ionio
Temple (7) of the finest Hellenic
work.
Immediately above the Agora, to the
N.» is the second terrace on which
stood the Great Altar of Zeus fll>
Nothing Is now left but the vast Dase
of solid masonry, round whioh, at a
height df about 8 ft from the mound,
ran ihd : great friete of the QiganU*
machia . Of this friexe, nearly three-:
fourths is now in the Berlin Museum.
The proper altar of sacrifice, which
consisted of the piled-up ashes of burnt
victims, rose from about the oentre of
the base; and there are reasons for
supposing that it was surrounded by
a hall of Ionio oolumns, open towards
the outside, but closed on the inner
side by a wall upon which was a
smaller friete representing the story
of Telephus. From the altar a path
leads to the gate of the Acropolis, on
passing through whioh the visitor has
the ruins of the Temple of Athene
Folios (6) on his L, and those of the
palsoe and other buildings in front.
Of the temple little is left, and its site
is partly oooupiod by a Byzantine
Church (5) of some interest ; butof the
stoae (4) that bordered three sides of
the oourt there are many remains.
Attached to the north stoa was the
Library (31 and beyond it, occupying
almost the highest part of the hill, is the
terrace that supported the Angus teum,
or Temple of Rome and Augustus,
oalled the 44 throne of Baton” in
Rev. ii. 18 (2), whioh like the Temnlo
of Athene, had stoae on three sides.
Here there are many sculptured blocks
of marble. On the E. side of the
Acropolis are the ruins of the Palace
buildings ; and at the N:E. corner
there is a well-preserved portion of
the AcropoUs wau, — a very fine speci-
men of the best Pergamenian period:
At the end of the hill, at a slightly
lower level, was the Temple of
Julia (IX daughter of Augustas; and
from this point there is a fine oiew
over the valleys of the Belinus and
Cetius. On the ridge between the
valleys may be seen the remains of the
conduit which brought water to the
city from the Mapa D^ about 19-20
miles distant. In its ooustruotion
inverted stone siphons have been
used, as at Patara and other places.
The Roman Town. A guide should
be taken to the Roman rains, within
and without the modern town.
Amongst the former are the so-called
Basilica, probably Thermae, with its
lofty walls of red brick ; ana, near it*
Digitized by
Google
88
BouU 31 . — Ali Aghcu
a curious double tunnel through which
the Selinus runs, and upon which
modern houses are built. Between
the Thermae and the tunnel is the
early Byzantine Church of S. Sophia ,
now a mosque. There are also some
Bowan bridge t, and the remains of a
Byzantine palace, having its front
decorated with marble pilasters. N.W.
of the town, near the Selinus, is
the stadium ; and beyond it, in a deep
ravine, through whioh runs a small
stream, is the amphitheatre. By ar-
rangements for damming up the
stream, the arena could be converted
into a miniature lake for nautioal
•ports. 8. of the amphitheatre was
the Roman theatre ; ana some distance
W. of this again was the celebrated
Temple of Aesculapius, with its school
of medicine. In front of the town are
three tumult, which were shown to
Pausanias as the tombs of Auge, the
mother of Telephus, of Andromache,
and of Pergamus. In the largest
there are a tine vaulted passage and
chambers. To those who have time,
a rido up the iovoly glen of die Selinus
is rooommonded.
The modem toum has little of inte-
rest There are 15 mosques, several
khans, and a large number of shops.
The trade is in ootton, valonea, opium,
and wool; and leather of excellent
quality is made in the tanneries. The
Ureek section of the population is
energotic and increasing, and has good
schools for boys and girls.
There are two ways of returning to
Smyrna. (1.) By Dikeli. Ride or
drive to Dikeli (6 hrs., but carriages
usually take only 3 hrs.), a small
Greek town on the coast. The road
is over open, almost level ground, and,
about half-way, passes an isolated
mound (L), the supposed site of Teu-
ihrania From Dikeli by steamer to
Smyrna.
(2.) By Elaea , Cyme, and Menemen.
The road runs down the valley of the
Caious, crossing the river by a ford,
to K&s K, Elaea (5 hrs.), the ancient
port of Pergamum. There are a few
fragments of walls, but the site is now
oocupied by marshes and lagoons, and
the harbour is partly silted up. The
road now follows the coast to the
site of Orynium (14 hrs,), an Aeolian
city, which contained a sanctuary of
Apollo, with an ancient oracle, and
a splendid temple of white marble, the
position of whioh is marked by a few
fragments of marble. From Gryniuin
there is a direct road by Ouxd-hissar
(3 hrs.), and tfkilz K. (I hr.), to Mene-
men (8 hrs.), The coast road con-
tinues to
Kalabak Serai, Myrina - Sebasto-
polis (1 J hrs.), at the mouth of the
Kqja Su, anct. Pythicus. Myrina,
originally an Amazon, and later an
Aeolian city, was a small but strong
place with a good harbour. It suf-
fered much from the great earth-
quakes in the reigns of Tiberius and
Trajan. There are remains of a Hel-
lenic wall, and on the slope beneath
the city numerous graves. Higher
up the Pythicus, about 5 hrs. from
Myrina, is Vexnrdd Kalesi, Aegae, an
Aeolian city. Some low hills are now
crossed to
Ali Agha(l hr.), a largo liouso, and a
village, on a pretty bay, belonging to
M. Baltazzi of Smyrna. On a rook
near it is an inscription , marking the
boundary between Pergamum and
Oyme. Beyond Ali Agha are the
ruins of Cyme (1 hr.), an Amazon city,
and later “ the largest and noblest of
Aeolian cities,*' which occupied two
low hills facing the sea. As a com-
mercial town it readily accepted
Persian rule, and after Salamis the
remnant of the Persian fleet wintered
in its harbour. In a.d. 1413, when
garrisoned by Juneid, it was stormed
by Muhammad I., who put the garri-
son to the sword and dismantled the
walls. Fragments of marble and pot-
tery alone mark the site.
The direct road from Cyme runs to
foils K. (14 hrs.) and Burunjik, La-
rissa (1 hr.), an old Pelasgio city
which suooesafully resisted the Spartan
army under Thimbron after the dose
of the Peloponnesian war. About 4 m.
to the E., at Yanik K., was the rival
city Neonteichos (remains of Hellenic
Digitized by L^ooQle
89
Hauls 32 . — Nif.
walls on a massive rook, which formed
the Acropolis!. Descending from
Bnrnajik to the Hennas valley, the
river is crossed by a ferry 2 m. from
Xenemen (2 lire.), on the Srayrno-
Kassaba Bailway (Rte. 80). In 1886
a canal was oonstrncfted to carry the
waters of the Hennas, which were
forming a bar across the Golf of
Smyrna, from a point below Menemen
direct to the gulf,
A longer road from Cyme runs by
Yeni Foeha, Nea Phokia (8 hr*.),
founded by the Genoese in 1421, on
account of its proximity to the rich
oZum mines in the hills. Tho Genoese
worked the mines for 140 years under
a treaty with the Seljftks, and after-
wards under treaties with Muham-
mad I. and Murad XL Here probably
was the Oyllene of Xenophon, or the
Aseanius portus.
Said Foeha, Phooaea (2) brs.), the
most northern of Ionian cities, fouoded
by emigrants from Phocis. Before
its spirit and power wore broken by
the Persians, Phocaea commanded
the trade of the Hennas valley, and
rose to great eminenoe. The Pho-
caeans were the first Greeks to un-
dertake distant voyages, and one of
their colonies was Marseilles. The
town took an active part in the Ionian
revolt, and a Phocaean commanded
in the disastrous naval action off the
is l a nd of Lade (p. 111). The modern
town is surrounded by walls of late
date. Nothing is left of the ancient
fortifications, excepting the beds cut
in tho rock to receive tne stones ; and
little to mark the site of the temples
and buildings that covered the island
of Baochium.
Xsnsmsn (6 brs.). See p. 79.
ROUTE 82.
SMYRNA— NYMPHAEUM— SARDIS.
nas.
Nif (tfympkaeum) 4i
Kustbt 6
Sort (Sardis), by Balt • 1
The road leaves Smyrna by Cara -
van Bridge, and, after skirting the
foot of the hills on the right, turns up
the KavaJdi Dere to Bd-Kahvek (2J
hrs.). From the Cafe (p. 79) there is
a short, steep ascent to tne heed of the
pass, 980 ft, and the road then runs
down the right side of the fertile
valley of the Nif Chai to the noted
cherry orchards of
Hi i, Nymphaeum (1 f hrs.), alt. 720 ft
The town is picturesquely situated at
tho mouth of a rocky glen, through
which runs a stream fed by soveral
springs that rise in the inner recesses
of the hills. In a cherry orchard are
the ruins of the palace built by Andro-
nicos IIL the Younger; and in a
public fountain is a Brian tine sar-
cophagus. Above the town are the
remains of a castle, and in the cliff
beneath are rock-hewn tombs. John
III. Ducas died at Nymphaeum, and
it was a place of importance in later
Bysantine times, and during its occu-
pation by the Genoese. Prof. Ramsay
(A. If. 1081 supposes it to be the By-
zantine bishopric Sosandra. Near
the town are ancient silver and anti-
mony mines.
About 2 hrs. from Nif are the re-
markable Sesostris Monuments. The
road to them at first runs up the
pioturesquo valley of the Savonta
Chai, ana then crosses a low ridge to
the narrow-wooded glen, Kara Bel,
“ Black Pass,” through which passed
the ancient road from Ephesus to
Sardis and Smyrna The "Pseudo*
Sesostris discovered in 1839, is on
tho rt bank of the Kara Su, and is
Digitized by
90
Route 83 . — Batndir — Tireh.
out in low relief on the cliff, about railway terminus at Odemish, is one
70 ft above the road through the pass, of the most picturesque districts in
It represents a man with a conical A. Minors whilst the wild mountain
head-dress and boots turned up at the tract, in which the river rises, is
toes, holding in his right hand a bow, almost Alpine in character,
and in his left a spear. On the right
side of the figure are “Hittite” From Smyrna the railway (Rte. 84)
symbols, and the sculpture is an in- is followed to Tfirbali (30 m.), where
teres ting specimen of “Hittite” art a bianob line turns E. up the valley
The seoond figure is sculptured on a of the Cayster; and, keeping near
piece of rock about ten minutes 9 walk the foot of the MahvUtd D. on the N.,
bom the first, and is on a level with runs past Gfirgfir (33) m.), Arik-
the W. side of the old path which bashi (38| m.) 7 and Ghiplak (42} m.),
has long been disused. It bears a to
general resemblance to the Pseudo-
Ifesostris. and is probably the figure Bain dir (47} m.% a large modern
described by Herodotus. The spear town (| Moslem, } Greek), with a
is held in the right hand and the trade in cotton, raisins, and tobaooo.
bow in the left, as he distinctly A path leads from the town over the
asserts, and though the head and range of ML T mol us, by llija (small
breast are mutilated there are traces lukewarm sulphur springs), and
of a belt running across the latter, on Ovajik, to Parta (7} lira.), on the Nif-
which characters may have been in- Kassuba road. From Baindir the line
soribed. At the mouth of the pass is turns 8. over the plain to Ohatal
an artificial tumulus called M Treasure (52} m,), the junction for
mound.”
Tireh, Teira (509 in.), which is
About 1} hrs. from the monuments reached by a short line that crosses
is Kisil Jaii — a clean village, half the river. Tireh, the largest uud
Greek, half Moslem, in a pretty glen, richest town in the valley, is situated
at which good accommodation can be amidst gardens and vineyards at the
obtained. From Kizil Jaii it is foot of Mt. Messogis. It has a oon-
5 hr*, and from Nif 6 hrs., over the siderable Greek and Hebrew popula-
plain ou the rt bank of the Nif Chai, tion, and does a large trado in raisins,
to Kassaba (p. 82), whence Sardis can wheat, rice, cotton, tobacco, and oil.
be reached by rail (Rte. 80). There are also manufactories of sack-
ing and ropes. The streets are well
watered, and there are a large baidr,
numerous mosques, churches, baths , etc.
The only remains are a few columns,
and blocks of marble built into the
walls. Teira— a native word for
u town was apparently once called
ArcadwpoUs; and in 1308 many of
the inhabitants of Ephesus were re-
moved to it by Sasun. A path runs
ROUTE 33. from the town, over ML Messogis,
to Kara-bunar (p. 101) and Aidin
THE VALLEY OF THE OAY8TER. ( 9 *•«.).
The valley of the Oayster, Kuchuk
Menders, “ Little Maeauder,” well de-
serves a visit The western section
has a fertile soil which supports many
flourishing towns and villages; the
eastern, now cusily reached from the
At Ghatal the line turns E. again
and pusses Dare- bashi (57) m.) aud
HaJJlli (62} m.) before reachiug the
terminus at Odemish (68} m.), a large
town with a Moslem, Greek, and
Armenian population. A mountain
Digitized by L.ooQle
91
Route 33. — Tapae.
stream runs through the town, and
there are manufactories of rope and
sacking. The Greek church was built
in 1840, oat of the ruins of Hypaepa ;
and in the school are a statue of Venus y
and inscriptions from the same place.
Several routes may be followed from
Odemish, all passing through fine
mountain and forest soenery.
(1.) To Kansaba (12 hrs.), by Kara
K. y and over the Mermere D. t 1800 ft.
(2.) To Hypaepa and Sardis (11
lirs.). The road ascends the hill in a
N.W. direction to Tapes, Hypaepa
(1} hrs.), all. 800 ft., on the direot
ancient road from Ephesus to Sardis.
“ Little ” Hypaepa was one of the
seats of the worsh ip of Artemis Persica,
and Pausanias mentions some curious
details about the Magian priest of tho
goddess, her spontaneously flaming
altar, and the religious invocation in
a strauge language. It was celebrated
for the beauty of its women and the
of their dancing. The town
through Roman Into Byznntiiio
times. There are coins as late as
Gordian, and a bishop of Hypaepa
was present at the Council of Chal-
cedon (451).
Tapae is traversed by a deep ravine,
over which there were five bridges,
but of these only three remain. In
an olive plantation near the second
bridge is the substructure of a large
templet consisting of two vaults with
the shafts of granite columns between
them. These oolumns are united by
granite walls, and the arrangement is
so unlike that in Greek and Roman
buildings, that some writers have
supposed the remains to be those of
the templo built by Artaxerxes. The
theatre in on a hill on the other side of
the bridge. The seats have been
removed and the prosoenium de-
stroyed. The statue of Venus, in the
school at Odemish, was found in an
angle to the right of the orchestra.
Further on are the ruins of a small
temple with spirally fluted oolumns.
The walls are still in fair preservation.
On living Tapae the road runs E.
to Geneses, and then mounts rapidly
through fine forests to the pass ever
Mt Tmolus, 8250 ft. The view from
the summit is magnificent ; to the 8.
the Caystriau plain and the shadowy
outline of Messogis; to the B. the
highest peaks of Tmolus, Bos D.*
6500 ft., and to the N. the broad
valley of the Hermus. Immediately
N. of the pass is a mountain lake
(8) hrs.), in' which the Tahak Chai
rises, and to the W. are the sources of
the Pactolua. The whole of this
elevated district, the favourite summer
resurt of the Seljflk and early Osmanli
governors of Mnnisa, presents a suc-
cession of beautiful mountain scenery.
The descent from the lake to Sardis
takes 6 hours.
(8.) To Birge, Keles , and Buladan
(8 days). Birge, or Berki (21 hrs.),
delightfully situated on a mountain
torrent spanned by a picturesque
bridge, was the summer residence of
tho Emirs of Aidin, and gave its name
(Birgui), as on alternative to Aidin,
to the principality. It was noted for
its fine air, its good water, its sylvan
scenery, and tho excellence of its
pomegranates. In the great mosque
are the tombs of the princes of the
house of Aidin, and of Juneid, who
rose to brief power after the retire-
ment of TimCtr. Sardis can be reached
from Birge in 81 hrs. by a path that
runs into (2) near the lake.
Leaving Birge the road runs over
high ground and amidst lovely soen-
ery, beneath the peaks of the Box D.,
to the head waters of the Cayster,
and follows the stream down to Keles,
Coloe (41 hrs.), well situated in that
part of the valley known as the
Cilbian Plain, In the Roman period,
with Palaeapolis, it struck ooius under
the name Cilbiani; and under the
Se\jftka it was noted for its pome-
granate and apple orchards, its
cypresses, its poplars, and its clover.
Roads lead from Keles to Here K.
(p. 88) in the Hermus Valley in
6 hrs. ; to Ine-geul (p. 108) in 2 days ;
to Bviadan (p. 108), by Derhend and
Assar K. y in 2 days ; and to Nasli* by
Baliam-bolit in 13 hrs.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
92
Route 34. — Buja^Seidi Kent .
(4.) To Baliam-boli and Naslt (2
days). The road crosses the broad
Talley to Baliam-boli, Palaeapolis
(7 hrs.), also called Nioopolis ; whence
one path crosses by the ruins of
Matlaura (p. 102) to Nazli (8 hrs.),
and another to Sultan-hissar (Bte. 34)
in the same time.
(5.) To Boidemne (8) hrs.) and,
oyer Mesaogis, to Kiosk (74 hrs.) in the
Maeander Valley (Bte. 34).
ROUTE 34.
SMYRNA TO CPHE8U8 AMD DINEIR,
BT BAIL.
N.B — The Post tr&ln tearing Smyrna at
7.30 reaches Ayaaolftk at 0.30 a.m ; and
the Poet train leavee for Smyrna at 3.20 r.a.
A traveller can thus hare 6 boars to see
Ephesus and return to Smyrna the same day.
Point Station, the Smyrna terminus,
which is at Tutli Burnu , “ Salt Point,' '
can be reached by tram or carriage.
It has good accommodation for traffic,
and a jetty at which steamers can lie.
The line runs through gardens planted
with orange aud mulberry trees, and
orosaes the so-called Meles and the
Smyrna -Kassaba line to
Caravan Bridge Station (1} m.), near
the cypress groves of two large
Turkish cemeteries. The line passes
the Christian and Jewish burial-
grounds, and ascends the valley of
8. Anne beneath Mt Pag us by a
steep incline. The small stream that
flows down the valley is spanned
by a fine aqueduct built two cen-
turies ago by one of the Keuprilis
when Grand Vizier. Higher up there
is another but older oqueduot. On
tko rt. is the Church of klia* t a great
resort for pilgrims on July 31st and
August 1st.
Paradise Station (4 m.), for the
hamlets of Great and Little Paradise ,
where there are some remains of
Roman and Byzantine villas. A
branch line runs to Bflja, a village of
5000 inhabitants, and one of the
great summer resorts of the Smvrniotes.
There are many well-built villas and
houses, and that of M. Bpartali
(formerly Baltazzi’s), was visited by
Sultan Abdul Aziz in 1863. An older
house was visited by Lord Byron.
There is an English Church , “ All
Saiuts.” rebuilt in 1865. The Roman
Outholies have a Church , u seminary
directed by Capuchins, and a Girls*
School. The Greeks have two churches
and schools tor boys and girls. The
Moslem population is small and poor,
and their Quarter has been rebuilt by
M. SpurUili. 8. John's day (July 6th)
is a general holiduy, and the native
musio and dancing on the occasion
are interesting.
The matn line passes the Smyrna
race-course^ and crosses the Bflja plain,
leaving to the rt a Turkish oemetery
with fragments of columns, and, higher
up, the white summit of Akche Raya
with its ancient aoropolis. It then
crosses the river, and passes through
broken oountry covered with vine-
yards to the plain of
Xasamir Station (84 m.). A branch
line on the rt. leads to Seidi Keui, a
summer resort of the Smyrniotea, with
about 5000 inhabitants and some good
villas. It was, 100 years ago, the
chief residence of the English and
Dutch merchants. After passing the
summit , the line runs over a series of
plains, having, on the L the Takhtali
mountains, Olympus, Tmolus , and on
the rt. the Alrnati mountains, Corax.
Jim-ovasi Station (14 m.) takes its
name from the village on the rt., once
a large Turkish town.
Develi Keui Station (17} m.) is the
starting-point for Malkajik, Tracha
(Old Colophon), Christian Koui (Clarus
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Route 84 * — Ephesus. 98
and Notium. or New Colophon), see
Bteu 86. Towards the B.W. the
mountains of Samos can be seen
through a gorge by which the Takh •
tali Chai passes to the sea. Kayas
Station (22) m.), a favourite re-
sort of sportsmen, is very unhealthy
on account of the marshes. Trianda
Station (27 m.). The village, 1 m.
from the station, derives its nttme from
Triakonta, being nt the 30th milestone
on the Ephesus-Sm vrna road. On the
rt. are fne ruins of an aoueduct that
carried water to Metropolis.
Tftrbali Station (80 m.). Tftrbali
is the principal village in this part
of the Oaystrian plain. There are
numerous remains Drought from Me-
tropolis, of which the present! name is
a corruption. An important branch
line runs E. to Baindir, Tireh, and
Odemish in the famous Oaystrian
plain (Rte. 83). The fertile plain is
rounded on the N. by ML Tmolus, on
the 8. by the range of Messogis, and
on the W. by Ml. OaUesium. A little
beyond Tftrbali, on the L are a ceme-
tery and Tepe Keui. Opposite, at
the foot of the hills, between two vil-
lages with whitewashed mosques, the
walls of Metropolis can bo soon. The
Greek acropolis , on the summit of the
hill, was enlarged in Byzantine times
by carrying two walls half-way down
the slope. Remains of a Doric tom pie
were built into the towers and the lower
wall. The sito of the theatre can be
traced ; there are many broken statues,
fragments of columns, Ao.; and the
beautiful Turkish cemetery in the
plain is full of ancient marbles. The
ruins are identified with Metropolis
by an inscription found at Teni Keui.
The line now crosses the Fetrek
Chai , anot. Phyriles , and runs through
a marshy plain ; on the rt. Lake Pega-
sus, In winter tho plain is flooded,
and the water, which breaks in waves
against the railway embankment,
runs off to the Cayster near Jelat
Kahveh Station (86{ m.). Here the
defile that separates the upper plain
of the Oayfeter from the plain of
Ephesus, commences. On the rt Mt
Gallesium, on the L hills rioh in
emery.
Koe-bnnar Station (41) m.), with a
small village. Above the station Is
Kechi Kcuetiy “ Goat Castle/’ a
stronghold of the Sefjftk Sultans of
Ayasolftk, whenoe there is a fine view
from Samos on the W. to the Bos
Dagh on the E. The architecture of
the oastle is interesting. On a spur
of Messogis to the L is a ruined tower
lately restored. On the top of a hill,
a little further on, is a tumulus with a
wnlled passage leading to 8 chambers.
At the foot of the hill is a rock-cut
sanctuary , rebuilt in Roman times.
The line passes curiously shaped hills,
and a niche out in the rock, and cross es
the Cayster, Kuchuk Menders, near
an ancient bridge. The plain of
Ephesus, with the castle of Ayasolftk
now comes into view. A small valley
on the L leads to Kirkinjeh, the in-
habitants of which are said to be
descendants of the ancient Ephesians.
An aqueduct crosses this valley, and
higher up, on the L, is a cave-church.
Passing through groves of fig-trees
the line reaches
Ayasolftk Station (48 m.). The
village is a feverish place with only
about 150 permanent inhabitants.
The hotel, built by the railway oom-
pany near the station, gives fair ac-
commodation, and horses, with English
saddles, oan be hired for visiting the
ruins. The plain is extensively cul-
tivated by the Greeks of Klrkiigeb
who own the soil. Ayasolftk may be
reached by landing at 8cala Nova ,
with which it is connected by a
carriage-road ; distance 10 m.
EPHESUS.
General description. — Travellers
should first proceed to the hill behind
the station and obtain a general view
of the Site. The Plain of Ephesus is
bounded on the N. by ML OaUesium,
on the E. by the Pactyas, and on the
8. by ML Coressus and Prion. On
the W. it is open to the sea, which is
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94
Route 34 . — Ephesus : History .
about 6 m. distant. On the N.E. is
the narrow valley by which the
Gayster enters the plain — a natural
route followed alike by the anoient
road to Sardis, and tha modern rail-
way- The Selj&k castle, Kechi Kalui ,
a prominent feature in the landscape,
guarded this pass. On the 8. a second
valley, through which ran the ancient
trade route to Magnesia ad Maean-
drum and the East, leads up, between
Coressus and Pactyas, to Azizieh.
Here also the railway follows the line
of the old road. In winter the flood
waters of the valley bring down large
quantities of silt that are constantly
raising the surface of the plain.
To the S.W. is Ephesus. In the
immediate foreground is the great
Mosque of tsa Bey , and a little farther
are the excavations that mark the site
of the Artemisium. About a mile
beyond the latter is Mt. Prion, with
its double summit orowned by the
ruins of a city wall. At its N.W.
end are the Stadium and Praetoriwrn,
and at its 8.E. end the OpiMholeprian
Gymnasium. Behind Prion is 3ft.
Coressus , on which can be seen the
wall of Lysimachus running along the
crest and terminating on the W. in
the tower known as 8. Paul’s Prison .
This tower and the hill of Ayaaolftk
show the double character of one of
the most remarkable cities of anti-
quity, and typify the long struggle
between the Greek immigrants and
the Asiatic hierarchy. 8. Paul’s
Prison marks the site of the Athenaeum,
the first settlement of the Greeks;
the Artemisium, at the foot of the hill
of Ayasolflk, was the seat of the
saoerdotal power of the great Aaiatio
goddess.
History.— The mouth of the Gayster
was one of the most ancient ports of
A. Minor. The first inhabitants were
Garians, amongst whom the Phoeni-
cians introduced the cult of their
protecting goddess of the sea and
trade, who was worshipped under the
symbol of the moon. This sanctuary
Boon became an organised hierarchy
of priests and priestesses closely con-
nected with the most holy plaoes of
the interior. The high priest was
oalled Megabysue, “ Goa -.given,” a Per-
sian title; the priests were named
Essence, “ King bees," and the priest-
esses Melissae, “Bees” Bands of
armed men and women formed the
guard of the sanctuary. The country
was administered according to Comae ;
the tillers of the soil dwelt round the
temple; and the inviolability of the
sacral territory, asylum, attracted
many settlers.
This state of affairs lasted until
the arrival of the Ionians at the
mouth of the Gayster (ciro. B.a 1040).
The Greeks, under Auidroclus, son of
Godrus, King of Atneus, met with a
strenuous resistance from the Garians
and Leloges ; and their combats with
the armed virgins who defended the
temple gave rise to the famous legend
of the Amazons. At last the Greeks,
according tQ the ingenious theory of
Erast Gurtius, established themselves
round the Athenaeum, now 8. Paul’s
Prison, and founded a Greek city
contiguous to the Asiatic power of the
temple. Hostilities ceased, and oaths
of allianoe were taken by both parties,
possibly on the rock-cut altar, in frout
of the stadium.
The Ionians also maintained peace-
ful relations with the Heruclidae who
ruled in Lydia ; but the Mermnadae,
who replaced the latter (circ. b.o. 700),
endeavoured to gain possession of the
Greek coast towns. Smyrna, Colo-
phon, aud Miletus fell to the succes-
sors of Gyges, and Ephesus alone re-
mained independent. A wealthy citizen
of the town, Melas, married a daughter
of Alyattes, and their son, Pindarus,
was Tyrant when his uncle, Groesus,
came to the throne (b.o. 568). Pin-
darus having refused to submit to
Lydia, Groesus attacked Ephesus.
One of the towers of the wall gave
way, but Pindarus connected the
walls with the temple by a rope,
one mile long, and so placed the
town under thejprotection of Artemis.
Groesus, who, as a Lydian, reverenced
the great Asiatic goddess, was dis-
armed; but the Greek oity was
broken up and Us inhabitants settled
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Route 34 . — Ephesus : History.
found the temple. Under Croesus the
influence of the priesthood was largely
increased ; and, the first great temple
being then in course of construction,
the Lydian monarch dedicated most
of the columns (fragments of which,
with port of his dedicatory inscription
and name, are now in the British
Museum), and some golden bulls.
When Croesus fell (b.o. 549) the Per-
sians respected the tempte. It was
tho only temple spared by Xerxes,
and it was to Ephesus, to the care of
Queen Artemisia of Caria, that the
Great Kiog sent his children after his
defeat at Salamis (b.o. 489).
Until the battle of the Granicus
(b.o. 834), Ephesus Bliared the fortunes
of the other Ionian cities. An awful
sign presaged the new era. On the
night when Philip’s son was bom
(b.o. 3561 Erostratus set fire to the
temple or Artemis. Alexander put an
end to all contentions; assigned the
taxes raised by the Persians to the
temple ; and fixed the right of asylum
at a stadium from the walls. At this
time the new temple of Diana, one of
the “8oven Wonders” of the world,
was approaching completion. It was
erected by Dinooratee, on the founda-
tions of the old temple, but on a
grander scale. In b.o. 295, Lysima-
ohu8 settled the inhabitants on Mt
Prion, erected new walls on Ooressus,
and transplanted the people of Colo-
phon and Lebedus to tne town, which
ne called Arrinoi , after his wife. The
old name, however, survived, and
under it Ephesus became one of the
most flourishing cities of the East
Theatres, gymnasia, and temples were
erected ; art, science, and poetry were
developed, and Parrhasius and Zeuxis
founded a school that produced works
of world-wide fame.
During the long struggle between
the 8eleucids and tne Ptolemies, Ephe-
sus retained its importance. The
priests having lost their independence,
strove to extend their right of asylum.
Mithridates, to propitiate the goddess,
shot an arrow from a comer of the
temple to mark the new limit ; but it
fell only just beyond the boundary of
Alexander. Antony doubled the dis-
tance, and thereby caused the greatest
disorders. Octavius put an end to
them by restricting the territory of the
temple, and building a new poribolus
The discovery of a comer of this en-
peinte (A), with the accompanying
inscriptions, was one of the best results
of Mr. Wood’s excavations. Augustus
established a new oult beside tnat of
Diana, — an Augnsteum by the side of
the Artemirium. Ephesus now became
tho recognised capital of the Province
of Asia, and an important trade
centre.
The temple was really oecumenio.
Rome honoured it, and after the great
earthquake of a.d. 29, the town was
restored by Tiberius and Claudius.
The Ephesians were proud of the title
Neocoii, u temple sweepers,” of Arte-
mis, — the great goddess, whose supre-
macy was unchallenged until 8. Paul
preached the Gospel at Ephesus. The
riots caused by Demetrius (Acts xix.)
were soon put down, but henoeforward
there was a colony that oould make no
truce with the ancient idoL The
temple, to which Trajan presented
now bronze doors, appears on theooins
of Hadrian, and on those of Valerian,
100 years later. It was plundered
and destroyed by the Goths (a.d. 269),
but Ephesus retained its commercial
importance. As metropolis of the
Churches of Asia, the city even ac-
quired fresh dignity, which was
enhanced by the memories of Timothy,
its first bishop, of 8. John, of the
Virgin, and of 8. Polycarp. Six Coun-
cils were held at Ephesus; amongst
them the third, at which the Nestor-
ians were condemned (a.d. 481), and
that known as M the Brigandage ” of
Ephesus (a j>. 449).
After the founaation of Constanti-
nople (a j>. 880), the history of Ephe-
sus is merged in that of the Eastern
Empire. Having ceased to be the capi-
tal of Asia, its population decreased.
New walls, suitable to the smaller
town, were built from the summit of
Prion, along the theatre, to the inner
port, and the harbour was gradual ly
silted up by the Oyster. About a.d.
580, Justinian built a magnificent
Cathedral on the hill above the temple,
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Bdute 34 . — Ephetus: Ruins.
97
on the site of an earlier bhnroh of S.
John ; and, from this time maj perhaps
be dated the transfer of the inhabi-
tants from the old town to the site now
occupied by Ayasolftk. Throughout
the Middle Ages the Church of 8 . John
played the same par$ that the Temple
of Diana did in ancient times. Every
year there was a great festival, aooom-
panied by a fair. The annual revenue
of the Church, derived from the Cus-
toms dues, amounted to about 18,0001.,
until they were reduoed, to relieve the
merchants, by Constantine VI * when
he visited Ephesus after his victory
over the Arabs at AnUsa (a.d. 795).
Most of the pilgrims to tho Holy Land
passed through Ephesus to worship at
the shrine of S. John, whose tomb was
shown to Willibald (722). and Shewulf
(1102). Many of the Crusaders also
passed through Smyrna and Ephesus
on their way to Palestine.
In 1116 the Seljflk Generals, Tan-
griperm and Marash, conquered
Ephesus, but they were driven out by
John Duoas, brother-in-law of Alexius
Comnenas. In 1206, Theodore Lasoaris,
Emperor of Nicaea, regained the town
which had fallen into the hands of the
Soty&ks a second time. When the Sel-
jftk Empire fell to pieces (ciro. 1300),
Aidin Bey, one of the Provincial Go-
vernors, founded a kingdom of which
Aidin, Ayasolftk, Smyrna, Tireh, and
Birge— where the family tombs of the
dynasty may still be seen — were the
principal towns. In 1333, Chidr Bey,
Aiding grandson, was Governor of
Ephesus, and it was probably Ohidr’s
nephew, Isa Bey, who built the great
mosque at Ayasolftk. In 1402, Timftr
took Ephesus, and is said to have de-
stroyed the Church of S. John. In
1424* Murad II put au end to the in-
dependence of Aidin, and Ephesus,
having ceased to be a oapital, rapidly
declined. Throughout the Middle
Ages, Ayasolftk, under the name AUo
Luogo , was one of the principal marts
of the Levant; and the coins struck by
the Seljftk Sultans, with the Greek
word u Theolofos,*’ show considerable
intercourse with the Italian merchants
of that period. With the 17th oent
the era of modem travellers begins.
[Turkey.]
Ruins. — AyasolOk (• Aytos 9sek6yos\
at the foot of the . hill, crowned
by the ruins of a Turkish castle, is
full of remains dating from the Seljftk
period. Mosques and baths, spread
over the plain; attest its ancient im-
portance ; but the discovery of the site
of the temple of Diana first showed its
true relation to the history of Ephesus.
It is interesting to remark that the last
remnant of population is found on the
spot where, long before historio times,
tne Caro-Phoenioians founded their
sanctuary. Ayasolftk, though always
closely connected with Ephesus, was
never absorbed by it. The Roman
Aqueduet, which forms such a charm-
ing feature in the landscape, was pro-
bably built by Justinian. Its pillars,
45 ft. high, on which storks have built
their nests, are constructed of marble
blocks taken from ancient monuments ;
the vaults, where extant, are of brick.
Ascending the hill we reaoh an
Aneient Gate, flanked by projecting
towers, and built with the seats of the
theatre and stadium. It was orna-
mented by throo bas-roliofs, and, from
a fanciful interpretation of two, repre-
senting the deaths of Patroclus and
Hector, it was called the Cate of Per -
seeution . The third, and only re-
maining slab, has boys rolling over
goat elans on it This gate was the
entranoe to the Christian citadel in
whiob stood the famous basilica of
S. John. Passing near the ruins of a
modem chapel we reach the site of
the Chutch of 8. John. Large frag-
ments of brick-work, rains of fallen
vaults, four bases of pilasters in situ,
the enclosing wall on the W, and the
capitals with Greek crosses, are the
only remains of Justinian's basilica.
The Turkish Castle on the summit is
of slight interest; a Byzantine cistern
and a ruined moeque are all that is
left. Deeoending the hill we reach
the
Mosque of Isa Bey, which was
“ oriented'’ on Mecca and highly
deoorated in the Persian style. The
court, tarot*, was surrounded by a
Corinthian colonnade, and had a foun-
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98
Route 84 . — -Eph eeus : Artemmum.
tain in its centre. The four columns
of the mosque, JamC, monoliths, about
80 ft high, are from the great Gymna-
sium. The western facade is built
with marble blocks from this cell a of
the temple of Diana. The portals and
the tracery of the windows should be
noticed. A few hundred* yards from
the mosque is the
Artemisinin. — The substructures of
the walls, the base of a column, and
some fluted drums are the only rem-
nants of this celebrated temple. But
the fragments found by Mr. Wood,
and now in the British Museum, con-
firm the statements of the ancients
respecting its Ionio stylo, its sculptured
columns, and its grand proportions.
The temple, which was 7 stadia
(nearly a mile) from the city wall,
was rebuilt seven times, always on
the some site. The sixth, erected by
Ohersiphron and Metagenes, was the
first to become famous. The seventh
was destroyed by Erostratus. The
lost, rebuilt by Dinocrutos, was ono
of the largest and most magnifleeut
temples in the world. According to
Pliny it was 425 ft long, and 220 ft
wide ; 127 columns supported its roof,
and 36, eighteen at each end, were
sculptured, — one by Scopes. It had
eight columns on the facades, and was
surrounded by a double colonnade;
and its platform was 10 ft above the
pavement. In the Ephesian Gallery
of the British Museum are tlireo of
the sculptured drums, the base of one
of the ooliunns of the peristyle, a
portion of the frieze, two capitals, a
lion’s head from the cornice, and other
fragments.
An original statuo of the goddess
which, according to tradition, came
down from Jupiter, diopetes , was of
wood (a xoanon ) ; but the great statue
of Artemis, the figure of which has
come down to us, was of gold. The
face and head are hare and surmounted
by a mural crown ; the body is covered
with breasts and animals to show that
she is the supporter of life and mother
of all things; the legs are encased
like those of a mummy. The temple
contained the finest specimens of
sculpture and painting in the ancient
worfd; and its treasury was a plaoe
of deposit for all Asia. After its
destruction by the Goths it became a
convenient quarry for Byzantines and
Selj&ks, and finally its floor : was
covered to a depth of 22 ft. • by silt
from the rivers. Mr. Wood has told
the story of its discovery in his * Dis-
coveries at Ephesus*
Return by the new road, pass the
old mosque with Corinthian columns,
follow tne Azizioh road to the last
mosque » on the rt., and then make
straight for the dip in Mt. Prion. A
via sacra t bordered by Greek, Roman,
and Byzuntine tombs, ran along the
foot of Prion. 200 yds. to the right
of the junction of the path from
Ayosolfik with this road is the Cave
of the seven Sleepers (B), with a rock-
hewn church close by. Proceeding S.
we find the numerous tombs Mr.
Wood unoovered, the most important
being the Tomb of Androdus (0) ; the
beautiful cushion masonry has been
covered up Eurther on, oil both
sides, are the pedcstulS of the Colon -
node, erected by Damanius to shelter
the processions on thoir wuy to the
Artemisium.
The Magnesian Oates, flanked by
two towers, mark the entrance to the
town. This gate was double, one
portal leading to Magnesia, the other
to the temple. It was restored in
Roman times. On tho rt. ore the im-
posing ruins of the Opistholeprian
Gymnasium (D), one of the most com-
plete monuments of its kind. In the
foreground the Xystus , then the Di-
aulus running round three sides, the
Ephebeum, or principal hull in the
oeutre, Ac. Some 800 • yds. from ■ the
gymnasium, Mr. Wood excavated the
front of a Roman Temple in white
marble, of the Ionic order,, with a
faqade of 6 columns. Close to it in a
quadrangle ore the remains of a
Circular Monument (E), 50 ft. in
diameter, to which the name “ Tomb
of 8. Luke” has been attached, by
a conjecture of Mr. Woqd. It
consists of a cylindrical substructure
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Route 34 . — Epliesus } Theatre.
faced with marble slabs ; the interior
was oovered by a circular Vault resting
on a Central pillar and the extehiu
wall, which wal pierced by 16 win-
dows. Above the Substructure there
was a peripteral temple with 16
columns. When this was destroyed
the Christians constructed a small
chtqiel, unsymmeiricslly, in the baso-
mcnt, and ornamented the door with
iambs taken from older buildings.
The left Jamb is broken And the frag-
ment on the around' has an incised
cross; the right one, lying on the
ground, is divided into two panels,
on the lower of which is a Well carved
Oarinn bull, and on the upper a
Byzantine cross. The different cha-
racter of the work shows clearly that
the bull is ancient, and that the cross
is a subsequent addition by the Chris-
tiana. The small cross on the bull’s
hump is incised; the figure on the
side may have been chipped off by a
shepherd of the district. The build-
ing was perhaps a Polyandrium.
Further on is the 'Wool-market, so
■called because Mr. Wood found an
inscription; on one of tho podestols in
front of the building, stating that the
wool merchants, hxnarii, had erected
a statue to Vedius Ahtoninus.
Opposite the Circular Tomb, which
resembles that of C. Metella on the
Appian Way at Borne, and at the foot
of Mt. Prion, is the Odeum. It was
of white tnarble, and surmounted by a
Corinthian colonnade in red granite ;
the proscenium, with five doors, shows
traces of several restorations, — tho
last under Antoninus Pius. 2800
spectators could bo seated. A fine
vie to from the W. corner. A little to
the W. is the site of a Temple (F) which
overlooked a part of the lower town.
It was built ou a platform having a
wall of well-dressed stone. The Ionic
capitals have, on each side, a project-
ing cow's heed between the volutes.
Near it are the remains of a Byzantine
Church. BeloW the temple are a
public fountain, a mass of uncertain
ruins, and then the Agora (G), with
its artistic arrangement In the centre
the puteali as in European towns of
99
the Middle Ages; bn all four sides
r icoes With stalls behind; and on
W. a long avenufe forming the
approach. On the 8. are the remains
or a Roman Temple (HI known as
that of Clandins; the Anted mono-
lithic oolninns, and massive fragments
of ornate work attest -the richness of
its architecture.
•
Tho Great theatre (I) on tho rt*
capable of .seating 24,500 persons, is
tme of the largest in A. Minor. The
events mentioned in Acts xix. took
place here. The proscenium , 22 ft.
brood, is a heap of colufrms, archi-
traves, fHozes, capitals, Ac. Tho
seats have been taken away. Mr.
Wood found here 110 . Greek and
Latin ibscriptions. In front,' to the
rt, is a Gymnasium like that at Opis-
tholepra; and beyond the Forum, at
the head of the city port, is the Great
Gymnasium (K). These *• extensive
ruins, on an artificial terrace, were
long supposed to be those of the
Temple of Dtouo. It is a Roman
structure, built after the great earth-
quake of a.d. 79, when the town was
enlarged and the inner harbour, which
reached to the theatre, was reduced
to its present dimensions. This ex-
plains the existence of a Forum beside
the Agora, and the siibtenWneon
galleries of the gymnasium, to wbjoh
there is an entrance in the S.E. pier
of the central hall. The Forum (J)
is quadrangular with a water-tank in
the centre.
From this point an ascent may be
made to the Greek Tower (R), callod
8. PauVs Prison. It is a two-storied
fort with 8 chambers, and the upper
story is reached by an external stair-
case. The view hence is splendid.
The gate on the E. side is interesting.
There were 3 similar towers on the
adjacent hills. To the S.E. was tho
Coressian Gate (8), which led to
Coressus near the sea.
North df the Gymhasiubi is the
oldest Christian mbnutaent at Ephesus
— * Double Chur eh (L), in whioh the
h 2
Digitized by
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100
Route 34. — Azi&eh—Tekke.
third Oecumonic Council . was held
(431). E. of the Forum is the Marble
Basin, wrongly called a Baptismal
Font N. of this is the Stadium, 700
ft. long, with an amphitheatre at its
E. end. The vomitories on the N.
are standing; they led to: a wide
terrace and double portico, remains of
which lie scattered below. Oppoaito
the Stadium is the rook-cut AUar (MX
wrongly called Serapeum; there are
no traces of superstructure!. Near
the Stadium is the Praetorinm (N),
built ou a terrace supported by vaults.
Here there was a city gate that led
to Colophon. On the S. side of the
Stadium stands a Roman Gate of late
date but very conspicuous. Passing
through the Smyrna Gate (O), and
along the Via Sacra with its many
tombs, we now make for the new road
and return to Ayasol&k.
, Visitors with more time at their dis-
posal may explore the wall of Lytima -
chus on Mt. Coreesus, «*n interesting
specimen of Greek fortification ; the
course of the Cayster to the sea. pass-
ing the silled-up harbour of Panor-
mus; Agamemnon* 8 Temple, in the
quagmire of the 8eHfiurian lakes ; fhe
paved cautexoay through the marshes ;
the isolated hill Syria, with the ancient
bridge, Ac. (See Weber's Guide du
Voyageur h Ephise.)
Soon after leaving Ayasolftk the
railway climbs the mountain side by
a steep gradient, runs over a high via-
duct, passes the hamlet of Azajile with
some ruins, and enters the Ephesus
Pass, through which runs a stream
bordered by myrtles, oleanders, and
ferns. In the valley is a fine Roman
Aqueduct ; and in a glen to the rt. are
the ruins called Eskx Azitieh. After
passing through a 4 ehort tunnel, and
then the summit tunnel , the line
emerges at
Asisleh (55 m.), alt. 700 ft It is a
small place beautifully situated and
very healthy. In front of the village
is a conical hill with a tumulus. At
the station are a Roman milestone,
erected by Manius Aquilius, and a
sarcophagus . The line now runs down
the pretty ravine of the Lethaeus to
Balachik (62 m.), the oentre of one
of the fig districts in the Maeauder
Valley, whence a branch line runs to
Sokia (Bte. 87). Horses can be or-
dered by telegram to meet travellers
who wish to visit the ruins at
Tekke, Magnesia ad Maeandrwn, an
hour*s ride from the station over a
marshy plain, dry in summer. The
oldest Magnesia, of which the site is
not exactly known, was situated near
the Maeander. It was an Aeolian city,
founded by Magnetos of Thessaly,
and at one time rivalled Ephesus in
power and prosperity. After its de-
struction by the Cimmerians (ciro.
b.o. 726), it was rebuilt by the Mile-
sians or Ephesians. This town was
the occasional residence of the Persian
satraps of Lydia, and Themistocles
lived and died in it b.o. 460. In the
beginning of the 4th oenty. b.o. the
town was built at a higher level, at
the foot of Mt. Thorax , round the
temple of Artemis, and partly on the
banks of the Lethaeus. After the
defeat of Antioohus it was addod by
the Romans to the Pergamonian king-
dom, and is rarely mentioned after-
wards. There are, however, ooins of
Aurelius and Gallienus, and it was
one of the bishoprics of Asia. Mag-
nesia was celebrated for its Tempts of
Artemis Leuoophryene, which, accord-
ing to Strabo, was superior to the
temple of Ephesus in beauty and the
harmony of its parts, but inferior iu
size and the number of its treasures.
As early as the 6th centy. b.o., when
Magnesia was many stadia distant,
the temple of Artemis was famous,
and traces of this ancient shrine have
been uncovered during Dr. Humann’s
excavations in 1890-93. The temple
was rebuilt by Hermogenes of AJa-
bands, and Vitruvius cites it as a
model of a pseudodipteral temple,
The order was Ionic, more than usu-
ally ornamented, whilst the oolumns
of the colonnade of the peri bolus were
of the Doric order. The walls of the
peribolus are standing to a height of
about 20 ft, but they are of a later
period. The ruins of the temple,
which was 195 ft. long and 30 ft broad)
Route 84. — Atdin.
101
oonsist of Attic bases and capitals, in- anoi. Maeander, with its splendid fig
termingled with wall and architrave orchards, to Deirmenjik (67 m.), Her-
stones. The Whole area has been beyU (71 m.\ and Kara-bfi^ (744 mA
cleared out daring the excavations, a small village, with an English
The sculptures of the frieze, which cotton-ginning establishment, at the
represent a battle with the Amazons, foot of the pass that leads over Mt.
were in great part removed by M. Messogis to Tiieh, in the valley of the
Texier to the Louvre ; the remainder Cayster. Still proceeding up the rich
are in the Museum at Constantinople. Taller, with Messogis on the 1., and
In very ancient times a village, called the Maeander some distanoe to the
Leucophrys. a dependence of the oldest rt, the train reaches
Magnesia, lav round the temple.
Passing through the wall of the Aidin (81 m.), OUsel-hissar, the auct
peribolus. by a Provylaeum, to the Tralles. It is situated on both banks
w. of tne temple, is the Agora, a of the Eudon, an affluent of the Mae-
quadrangle with a oolonnade on each ander, at the foot of the preoipitons
side. No trace has been found of the hill upon which the ancient city stood,
monument of Themistooles, which and is a great mart for cotton and
was apparently in the older town. figs. There are large tanneries where
N. of the Agora is a Temple of Jupiter , fine morocco is made, and the helva
near which many inscriptions were and other sweetmeats are famous,
found. The city walls can be traced The quarters of the town are oon-
on the hills to the 8. and for some nected by bridges spanning the Eudon,
distanoe in the plain. and the Turkish Quarter is partly
At the S.E. corner of the town are surrounded by a wall in which are an-'
extensive ruins of an arohed building cient fragments. There are several
apparently a basilica, 8 . of the mosques , a Tekke of Mevlevi Der-
terople, at the foot of the hills, is the vtshes, a large bazdr , many Wi&ns, 2
theatre . The plan of the Greek locandas, and numerous fountains, in
theatre was discovered below the most of which there are old oolumns,
Roman superstructures. The walls or fragments of sculpture. The Greeks
of the two aisles, and the subterranean have a cathedral, schools, and a hoe-
passage to the orchestra, deserve pltal. In summer the town is rather
notioe. W. of the oity wall, towards hot, feverish, and unhealthy.
Mt Thorax, is the Roman necropoliti Tralles stood on a small plateau
with many sarcophagi. Not far off is a above the modern town, and accord-
stadium , and in the plain a gymnasium, ing to 8trabo was founded by Argives
There are also the foundations of a and Tralli (warrior) Thracians, whence
square JleroOn near the river Lethaeus, its name. Numerous other names,
a tributary of the Maeander. In the such as Anthes, Erymna, Larissa,
vicinity of Magnesia there was a &o., are said to have been given to
temple of Dindymene, the M mother of it It was the strongest fortress in
the gods," of whom the mother or the Maeander valley, and was “a
daughter of Themis tocleS was priestess, stronghold, first of the Seleudd kings,
M. Texier identifies a cave near as is inferred from the names 8eleuoeia
Gttmush with the Cave of Apollo, whioh and Antiooheia, Which for a time sup-
according to Pausanias was at Buie, planted that of Tralleis, and after
dose to Magnesia, and contained a B.a 190 of the Pergmmenian rule, as
very ancient image of the god. Close
to GOmush there is an old silver mine.
[Magnesia may be easily reached
from Morali , a station on the Sokia
line, but the trains are inconvenient]
From Balaohik the line runs up the
broad valley of the Menders Chat ,
is shown by the great number of ois-
tophori coined there." Attains is said
to have had a palace there. The dis-
trict was subject to earthquakes, and
much damage was done to the town
by a violent shook in the rdgn of
Augustus. The inhabitants were
noted for their great wealth, and
Digitized by
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102
Route S+^Serai Keui — Oonjeli .
many of them held high offloe in trace* of a theatre and amphitheatre ,
the proyinoe. During the Middle on the borders of the stream that runs
Ages it fell into decay, but was: ye- through the village. Strabo frequented
built by Andionicus II. (Palaeologas), a famous school at NyBa. After poss-
otro. 127$, who intended that it should, ing Atohe, or Akche (102 J m.), the
under the name Andronioopolis, or line reaches Ifasli (108) m.), an im-
Palaeologopolis, perpetuate his glory, portant town with a large liouorioe
It was however taken, a year, or two manufactory established by Mr. Forbes
afterwards, by the 8eljaks, under of Sokia. Nine miles to the N. are
Aidin and Mentesh, and became the the ruins of Mantaura, now Mastavro,
capital of the independent province an episcopal city in Byzantine times,
of Aidin, receiving at tko same time consisting of old walls, vaulted cham-
the name QOtel Jlittar , •• Beautiful bora, ana foundations of Hellenic
Castle.” The emirs of the house of masonry. The next station is Kuyujak
Aidin retained their independence (1161 m.), whenoe a road leads past
until Isa Bey, a learned prinoo who Antiochia ad Maeandrum to Geira,
ruled prosperously for 40 years, no- anot Aphrodisios (Itte. 41). The lino
kno wlodged Bayozid I. os his suzerain now ascends a narrower and less fertile
(ciro. 1390). At a later period ,it was part of the valley, and passing Hoy-
governed by members of the Kara annlu (1231 m.), and Ortakche (182 m.),
Osman family, who exercised fdmost where is a fine Roman hot bothy } hr. 1.
sovereign power in the valley of the of the line, crosses the Maeandor by
Maeander, until their power, in oommon a bridge to
with that of other Dere Bey*, wa*
broken by Mahmfld II. Serai Keui (1431 m.\ on the river
The principal mine are on the Caprut, an important commercial
terrace, which is reaohod by a steep oontro, in opcu ground near tha junc-
patli, and is prettily wooded with turn of the Lycus and Maeander.
olive, Here are the Konak of About 2 m. W. of Serai Keui is Khan
Tejtk Panha, with some sculptures, a Keui , in the territory of the anct.
new oollege, the remains of a Bytan - Attuda , with the famous temple of Mep
tine church, in one of the vaults ot Kara; and ubout6m. further W. aro
which are trace* of fresooe, and an- the hot- springs of Carura. Up in the
other ruin apparently of a church, hills, tp the S.W., near Atsar , was
At the S. end the ground rises ab- Trapetopolie. To the N. are BvXadan ,
ruptly to the site of the acropotis , and and the site ot }ho ancient Tripdlia ,
here there is the cavee of a theatre, overhanging the Maeander ; ana tho
with a stadium, from which the seats white cliffs to the E. mark the site of
havo been removed, in front of it. At Eierapolif. The |ipe now skirts tko
the N.W. corner are three colossal curiously-slmpcd sandhills that lie at
arches, called UchGeut, Three Eyes,” the foot of the Baba Dagh , opet.
which formed part of Roman Thermae; SaVbacus , and ascends tho valley of
on some white marble slabs in the tire Lyons, Churuk Su , to 8h«unli
upper part are Greek inscriptions. On (149} in.), and
the E. side of the terrace is a wild
gorge, with a tumulus on its L bank ; Oonjeli (156 in.), at the foot of tho
ana the views over the well-culti- hill covered with the ruins of Lan-
vated valley of the Maeander are very dicea. From this station, where a hotel
fine. . affords fair accommodation, tho ruins
of Laodicoa and Hiorupolis can L>
Tho lino continues up the valley visited. . A branch line runs to Denial}
through vineyards end orchards to (6 m.), a large Turkish town, which,
Omurlu (87} m.) ; Kiosk, or Keuthk from its beautiful situation at the
(92} m.) ; Chifte-kb&n (96 m.); and foot of the Baba Dagh and its Inxu-
Bultan-hissar (99 m.), pear which to riant gardens, ha? been called the
the N.W, are the ruin* of Nyea, with Damascus of Anatolia. There aru
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103
Boute 34 . — Hierapolis.
numerous tanneries, good kli&ns, and
a bazAr. \
Laodieea ad Lyonm, now Eski-
hissar , stood on rising ground between
two streams, one of which wns called
4*opu». It was easy of aocess, well
fortified, and situated on the great
Graeco- Roman highway, which passed
ont from it through the u Syrian Gate.”
Laodieea, originally called Diospolis
and Rhone, was so named by Antio-
ch ns 11. (Theoe) in honour of his wife
Laodice, when he rebuilt the town.
It was founded “as a stronghold of
Seleudd power and oontre of Groek
influence, and soon attained great
wealth and importance. . Although it
suffered during the Mithridatio wars,
it rapidly recovered and became one of
the most flourishing commercial cities
in A. Minor. In the reign of Nero it
was completely destroyed by an earth-
quake, but was restored by its inhabi-
tants. It was the : chief city of a
Roman eonventus, and at an early date
became a chief seat of Christianity
and residence of a bishop. It was one
of the Seven Churches to which S.
John addressed the Revelations (Rev.
L 11 ; iii. 14), and it is mentioned in
close connection with Colossae and H ie-
rapolis (Col. iv. 13, 15* 16). There
wns apparently a large Jewish com-
munity in the town. It was taken by
the Seljflks in 1097, retaken by
John II. Comnenus in 1119, and re-
built and fortified by Manuel I. Com-
nenus. From its position it naturally
suffered much during the wars be-
tween the Byzantines and the Turks,
and it finally passed into the hands of
the latter in the 13th century. The
date and cause of its final desertion
are unknown, but probably it was
ravaged by Timflr and its ruin com-
pleted by an earthquake.
The whole area is covered with
ruined buildings, but none of them
are earlier than Roman. There are a
well-preserved stadium, with its seats
ooraplete, near the 8. end of the town ;
an Odeum ; two theatre*, one in almost
perfect preservation ; gymnasia ; a
street flanked by the mins of a co-
lonnade, and numerous pedestals ; a
necropolis, and numerous toreophagi ,
near the Lyons ; fragments of the ofty
waU * ; the foundations of three .
Churohe $ ; and the sites of several tem-
t>le i. Water was brought to the town
Dy an aqueduct, of which many of the
arches remain, and it was carried
aoross the valley by an inverted w*
phon made of stone pipes, like those
at Patara and near Jerusalem.
Hierapolis, the “Holy City,” alt
1250 ft, now called ParnbUk Kalesi,
“ cotton castle,” from the white deposit
from the springs. The road to it after
crossing the Lycus, runs over the plain
to the root of the oliffs above which
the city stood. Its extensive ruins,
its mineral springs, and the singular
beauty of its position — on a broad ter-
race commanding an extensive view
of the fertile valley and of the fir-dad
ranges of BaJbaeus and Cadmus, on
which the snow lies till summer —
make it one of the most interesting
sites in A. Minor. «
Although the ruins of Hierapolis are
more extensive than those of Laodieea,
little is known of its history. It was
on the road from Sardis to Aoamea,
and was “ the oentre of native feeling
and Phrygian nationality in the
valley.” It was called originally
Kydrara, and probably owed its cele-
brity and sanctity to its remarkable
springs, and its Plutonium, — a “ hole,
just wide enough to admit a man,
reaching deep into the earth, from
which issued a mephitic vapour, the
breath of the realm of death.” Hiera-
polis was the seat of an early Christian
Church (Oolos. iv. IS), and was made
a metropolis by Justinian. In a. n.
1190 a battle was fought beneath the
town between Frederic Barbarossa
and the Byzantines.
Tho ruins of Hiernuolis are ex*
tensive and well worthy of study.
There is a large building, partly silted
up by the deposits from the springs,
which was apparently a gymnasium
oombined with baths. And overlook-
ing this, in a hollow of the hill to the
N is one of the most perfect theatres
in A. Minor, with a portion of thepro-
soenium still standing. There are also
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104
Route 34 . — Cdkmaa .
a triumphal arch ; a fine colonnade con-
necting the aroh with one of the city
• gates ; the ruins of a temple , a basilica,
and several Christian churches ; re-
mains of the city xoaU, partly Hellenic,
partly built witn material from older
Duildings ; and numerous fragments of
columns, friezes, Ac. Some of the
sepulchred monuments , including the
small mausolea in stone, are interest-
ing. The principal necropolis , which
contains numerous inscribed monu-
ments, is to the N.W., but there are
other tombs — one with the facade of
a tetrastyle temple — near the S.E.
gate.
The celebrated springs rise in a deep
pool above the gymnasium. Their
waters, once confined within proper
bounds and chanuels, have for centu-
ries spread ovor the terrace, and fallen
over the cliff iu front in a series of
cascades. They are remarkable for
their calcareous deposits, which have
in places raised the level of the terrace
from 15 to 20 ft, and partially covered
many of the buildings. The deposits
are of snowy whiteness, and the stalac-
tite formations in front of the cliff
present the appearance of frozen cas-
cades. The water now runs over and
amidst the deposits, and, where it falls
over the cliff, it forms a series of beau-
tiful basins, from the lips of whioh
hang brilliantly white stalactites. New
basins ore continually forming, and
where the water comes in contact with
twigs and. bronchos, it quiokly inornate
them. At one point a natural bridge
has been formed by the deposits. The
water in the innumerable little basins,
seen under a brilliant sun, has a lovely
eau de nil colour, and the whole effeot
is most striking. The water, which is
tepid and not unpleasant to the taste
was, according to Strabo, much used
for dyeing. The springs ore slightly
sulphurous, and the large escape of
? is explains the phenomena or the
lutonium. The Plutonium was below
the theatre and its mouth, whioh has
since disappeared, was seen by Cock-
erell, as he ranoied, a.d., 1812, between
the theatre and the springs. But
Ammianus says it could no longer be
seen in the 4th century, and it was
probably oovered up by the Christians
after a.d. 320. The waters are still
resorted to by the natives for rheu-
matism. In a deep gorge 2 or 8 m.
N. of Mandama, a village about 4 m.
N.W. of Hiorapolis, is a rude cave,
the sanctuary of Leto, on the roof and
sides of whioh are many graffiti.
From Qonjeli the railway oontinues
the ascent of the Lycus valley, past
Euren Keui and Ak-khdn t to Bqjali
(161$ m.), whence the site of Colossae
(3 m!) can be reached. The road runs
past the railway bridge and up the
narrow gorge, Kessen Boghas , “ cloven
gorge ,** through which the united
waters of the Churuk Su, Ak 8u y and
Khonas Su find their way. The gorge
is 2} m. long, with cliffs from 50 to 60
ft. high, ana the river runs in places in
a narrow cleft about 8 ft wide. Here
and there the water from the irrigation
canals, falling over the cliffs, forms
beautiful stalactites ; and at one point
the stream runs underground for a few
yards. The Ak 8u, whioh covers
everything with calcareous deposit, is
the river that according to Pliny
would u convert brick into stone.”
Colossae was situated at the head of
the gorge, a little below the junction
of the three streams. On the left bank
of the river are the hill of the acropolis
in whioh is the hollow cavea of a
theatre ; large blocks of stone and
foundations; fragments of columns
and pottery ; and traces of the wall.
On the right bank is the necropolis
whioh contains some curiously shaped
tombstones one is to be seen at
Appa Station further on. Colossae is
mentioned by Herodotus as a great
city of Phrygia. Xerxes halted there
on his march to Sardis, b.o. 481 ; and
when Cyrus the Younger marched
through it, b.o. 401, the city was large
and prosperous. It was oelebrated
for its wool, and the Colossians derived
great profit from their skill in dyeing
it. Colossae was the seat of an early
Christian Church, to whioh S. Paul
sent an Epistle, but it does not appear
that the Church was founded by the
Apostle himself. Philemon and his
Digitized by L^ooQle
105
Bouts 34 . — Kkonas — Appa.
■lare Onesimug, Arohippus. and Bpa-
phras, were dwellers in Colossae, and
it has been inferred from Col. i. 7,
iv. 12, that Epaphras was the founder
of the Church. Pliny classes Colossae
among “ famous cities,’* and for some
centuries after the Christian era it
continued to prosper. It then rapidly
declined, ana was apparently deserted
between 692-787, when its name was
supplanted by that of Khonae, an
important fortress on a high preci-
pitous hill to the south.
The statement of Herodotus that
the Lycos at Colossae enters a rift in
the earth within the very city, and
reappears at a distance of five stadia,
has been explained on the supposition
that the two oliffs of the gorge were
once connected over the stream, and
that the crust was subsequently broken
by an earthquake. The existence of
ancient tombs in the N. wall of the
gorge shows, however, that this theory
is wrong ; and it seems probable that
Herodotus has inaocarately described
the present gorge from hearsay. Prof.
Hammy considers that he has con-
fused tho gorge and the connection
of the Lyous with Lake A nova.
The worship of angels, against
which 8. Paul warned the Colossiani
(ii. 18), reappears in the worship of
8. Michael, to whom, at a later period,
the people attributed their deliverance
from an inundation. A Church, in
honour of the Archangel, which ex-
isted till its destruction by the Turks
in the 12th century, was built on the
rt bank of the Lycus, and its ruins
may still be seen E. of Colossae.
Even when the centre of population
was moved to Khonae, tho miracle-
legend and the Church continued to
exist on the old site till the 12th centy.
Khonae, now Khonas, is 8 m. 8. of
ColossacL on a steep spur of Mt. Cad-
mus, and the road to it lies through a
succession of vineyards. It was pro-
bably founded by Justinian as part of
bis general defensive scheme of roads
and forts ; and it is often mentioned
as a strong fortress in the wars
between the Byzantines and the
Turks. It became an archbishopric
about 858 ; and was the birthplace of
the historian Nicetas Choniates. The
ruins of the castle are on a rooky plat*
form above the village in which stands
the Churoh of 8. Michael.
After leaving Bqjali the line crosses
the Lycus by a fine iron bridge and
then enters the celebrated Pass 6/
Chardak , — the only .one that affords
easy access to the upper plateau of A.
Minor. Through this pass Xerxes and
Cyrus the Younger, Byzantine Em-
perors, Seljftk Sultans, and Crusaders
nave marched ; and during the Roman
period great part of the commerce of
A. Minor passed through it Possibly
its importance may again be restored
by the railway. The| ascent is easy
to Khoja Bash ( 170 m.) and Kaklik
(176 m.), shortly before reaching
whioh there are deposits (rt) similar to
those at Hierapolis. The line soon
afterwards emerges from the hills,
and crosses the plain to Chardak
(191) m.) near the W. end of the salt
lake Aji-tu* Qetd, anct Lake Anava,
alt 2600 ft A little E. of the village
Is a fine Be Ijtik KhAn, with an inscrip-
tion and ruae representations of a lion.
The salt left by the evaporation of
the water of the lake in summer and
autumn is collected by the peopto of
Chardak. Beyond the village the line
runs between the lofty precipitous
clifft at the foot of Besh-parmakVagh ,
“ Five Anger mountain,” and the N*
shore of tho lake to
Appa (208) m.V Here the line turns
N. and, leaving tne old rood to Apamea
to the right, crosses the bare plateau,
Tom Kiri, that separates Lake Anava
from the valley of the Maeander.
There is an easy asoent past Bolatli
(1.) to Evjiler (213) mX and the
ground theu falls to fh&tlqj (221) m.%
whence a branch line runs across tho
broad valley of the Maeander— the
plain of FeUae and Eumeneia — by
Sendurlu (9) m.\ with its rock-hewn
bas-relief, and Ixge Kent (14) m.) to
Chivril (19 m.), where there is a
stele with a Christian inscription
dated 249. From this plaoe a visit
Digitized by
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106
Route 34 '. — Dineir. \\
should be paid to Ishekli, Eumeneia^ wild r animals ; the Maeander .flowed
on sloping ground at the foot of a through the park, and also through
conical hill, about 3 m. to the E. The the city, its souroe being in the palooeJ
town was a Pergamenian colony, and It would appear from Strabo that , the
named after Eumcnes II., and was a joint souroe of the Maeander, and
seat of the worship of Isis. A stream, Marsyas was a Lake Auloorone (now
the Cludrue of Pliny, formod by Bunar-ba*h{), which gave its namo to
springs within the ancient city, runs the plain (p. 147).
off to join the Maeander. In the oliff
above the stream there are caves, or Xerxes, Cyrus, and Alexander
excavations, and in the town there marched by Oelaenae, and its import-
are inscriptions, and fragments of anoo grew with the development of
ancient buildings, columns, Ac. The the eastern trade route. The site
villages round ishekli are full of in- had been selected for its safety and
sorlptions, some of which show strong military strength ; but, during the
traces of Christian influenoe in the centuries that followed the death of
third century. W. of Ishekli is the Alexander, ease of access and corn-
river Olaueue ; and in tho plain be- mercial convenience became impor-
tween Kara-agachlar and Yaka Koui tant considerations. The town was
was Felloe, deserted, and Apamea was founded
The main line , after leaving Sutlej, near it by Autioohus Soter os a centre
makes a bend to tho S.E., and ascends of civilisation. The site selected was
the Maeander valley to ;on lower ground, at the exit of the
Marsyas from the hills, and the new
Dineir (284 m.), or Geyiklar, 44 Plaoe town was named after Apama the
of Stags,” Cdaenae- Apamea- CHboius, mother of the founder. It became a
alt 2845 ft., at the mouth of a glen, seat of Seleucid power, from which
from which a fine stroum issues. Tho roods radiated in ovory direction ;
position, commanding the great rood and a chief oentre of Graeco-Roman
from the Lycus valley to the interior, civilisation and commerce. Thore
is one of much importance ; and the Antiochus the Great fled after the .
view over the plain to the low white battle of Magnesia and made his
hills that mark tho line of the ancient treaty with the Romans. Fqr a
road to Colossac, and down the broad long time it was one of the greatest
valley of the Maoander, is of great cities of A. Minor, but, alter the
interest There are an hotel , a well- foundation of Constantinople diverted
frequented mariref every Monday; and the trade routes, it rapidly decayed,
numerous flour mille. The town suffered greatly from earth-
quake* before the Mitliridatio war,
Cdaenae w us a town of great size and also iu the reifp of Claudius,
and importanoe. The acropoli* was when changes are said to ltavo taken
on a lofty precipitous bill, and oon- place in the lakes, streams, and
sidered by Alexander to be impreg- springs. Possibly the spiring JIuda~
noble Beneath it were the palace verdi , which burst forth about 50
built by Xerxes, and the agora. In years ago, had its origin in an earlh-
or near the latter was the great cavern quake. At the commencement of the
in whieh Apollo hune up the skin of Christian era thero was a tradition
Marsyas after the oelebrated contest that the mountain, at the foot of
In the valley of Aulocrene now which the Marsyas rises, was Ararat,
Domhai Ovaei ; and whence the and coins of Severus, Macrinus, and
Afarspas issued to rush down, a turbu- Phillip have representations of the
lent, noisy stream, to the Maeander, ark with Noah and his wife. The
a circumstance to which it owed its tradition may perhaps be attributed
name Catarrhactes. According to to the name Cihotue (arkX which
Xenophon, Cyrus had a palace at Apamea boro os early as the time of
Oelaenae, and a large park full of Strabo. ,
Digitized by L^ooQle
107
Route 35 . — The Seven Churche*.
Dineir is built out of the ruins of
Apamea ; everywhere, in the walls of
houses and gardens, blocks of marble
and sculpture attest the grandeur of
the ancient city. On the hill N. of
the village is the cavea of a theatre,
but few buildings can be traced.
Many intcriptiom have been found.
On tne top of the hill, above the source
of the Marias, are the remains of a very
early church , which has been connected
with the belief that Noah's ark rested
on the hill of Celnenae. The church
was built with large well-cut blocks
of stone, without ihortar, on which
are numerous crosses.
The most striking feature of Dineir
is the group of springs that form the
headwater » of the Maeander . A coin
of Apamea shows the four streams
Maeander, Marsyas, Orpas* and
Therma grouped round the patron
goddess of Apamea (a deity of the
Ephesian . Artemis type). The
Marsyas, famous in mythology and
poetry, is the stream that rashes
tluough the village. Its source,
S&y&n Ba*hi, is about a mile distant,
at the foot of a cliff whore there
-appears to have been a large cavern.
Tho stream bursts forth full-grown,
and runs down the rocky glen turning
several, mills in its oourse. The
Maeander rises a mile to tho 8. in a
lake full of reeds called Mendere*
Duden ; and is joined, near an ancieni
bridge on the Kochiborlu road, by the
Iwjerli Su. The Orgas, Sheikh Arab
Chat, is separated from the Marsyas
by a hill , The springs rise quietly
in many heads amidst reeds and
small stones at the foot of the rocky
hills, and the water, after forming a
small marsh, runs off a copious stream
to the Maeander. Above the springs
is an isolated rock with two oells, on
one of which is inscribed Nikodemos
M(onochosl The Therma, llija Su.
is a small stream formed by tepid
springs, that bubble out of a flat tract
at the foot of a naked slopes After
irrigating some gardens, it; joins tho
Maeander near the railway bridge.
t ; t
itOUTE 36. '
TOUR OF THK SEVEN CHURCHES.
All the seven churches, except
Pergamum, are easily accessible by
rail. Pergamum can be reached from
Smyrna either by steamer to Dikeli
and thenoe by horse or carriage (p.
88X or by rail to Soma, and thenoe by
home or carriage (Rte. SIX A tour
of the seven churches takes at least
10 or 11 days, but for travellers not
pressed for time a more extended
tour, 17 days, including a visit to
Magnesia ad Maeandrum, the fine
ruins of Aphrodisias, and the elevated
plain of Tabae. is recommended. The
latter is given here.
1. Smyrna to JSpheeut by rail.
Sleep at Ayasol&k or Aiizieh (Rte.
34). 2. To Balaehik by rail : visit
ruins of Magneeia ad Maeandrum-
and continue by rail to Aidin and
Natli (Rte. 84). S, 4 and 5. To
Aphrodieiat and Denixli on horse-
back (Rte. 41). 6. To OonjeU , and
visit ruins of Laodieea and CeUonae ;
sleep at Gonjeli (Rte. 34).
7. On horseback (7$ hrs.). Gonjeli
to Hierapotti (2 hrs., see Rte. 84).
From Hierapolis follow the side of
the hill to Cherhee K. (1 hr.); then
cross the valley to the bridge, Ah
Kevpri, over the Maeander (3 hrs.),
and on to lent K. (1} hrs.), one mile
from the ruins of Tripoli*, near the
gorge from which the river issues
from the mountains. Tripoli*, also
oalled Antonionolis, was on tho great
road from Sardis to Laodieea. and is
said to have been visited by 88.
Philip and Bartholomew. It was
founded by the Pergamenian kings
to counterbalance the Seleuoid pro-
clivities of Laodioea. Most of the
buildings have disappeared, but the
Digitized by L^ooQle
108
Route 86. — Sivri-hissar .
sites of the theatre, stadium, and gym -
nasium oan be distinguished ; and
there are portions of the city walls.
There are targe numbers of rock-hewn
tombs , and sarcophagi . Near the
town is a hot ferruginous spring still
much used by the natives. From the
bridge a direct road leads to Buladan ,
anct. Apollonos-Hieron (3 hrs.), in the
midst of fine scenery and a better
resting-place than Teni K.
8. On horseback (8 hra). Ascend
through a pretty country to a guard
house (1$ hra) and thence to the
broad saddle, covered with pines,
which separates the waters of the
Maeandor from thoee of the Hermus
ROUTE 88.
8MYBNA-TE08—LEBEDU8—
8MYRNA.
Hftlki
8tvrt-hlsur
Stghajik (Tea)
Xlngi (Ltbedus)
Xotium .
Devell Keul
Smyrna, by Rail.
nits.
6
St
1
St
•
St
Teoe may be reached from Smyrna
by two Routes.
(1J hra), alt 1950 ft. Descend a
narrow valley by Derbend (1J hra) to
Ine-geul (4 hra) in the valley of the
Oogamua Here there are a few
sarcophagi. From Buladan to Ine-
geul is 7} hra
9. On horseback along the foot of
Mt Tinolus to Ala-shehr , anct. Phila-
delphia (4 hra, see p. 83). 10. By rail
to Sardis ; visit the Acropolis and
tombs of the Lydian Kings (Rte. 30).
11. To Manisa by rail ; visit Niobe
and Mt. Sipylus (Rte. 30). 12. To
Thyateira by rail (Rte. 31). 13. To
Soma by rail ; and Kinik on horse-
back (Rte. 31). 14. To Pergamum
on horseback. 15. Pergamum. 16,
17. On horseback to Ali Agha ,
Menemen , and Smyrna (Rte. 31).
1. By Sivri-hissar . — The road fol-
lows the ooast through Kara-tash ,
and past the fort Sanjak Kalesi (rt.),
the hot springs of llija (1.), called
the “ Baths of Agamemnon ” to Kilis-
man, about } hour from the shore;
it then runs inland to HaVci (6 hra),
a small Moslem village on the hill-
side. From Hits point the rood runs
for 1 hr. through wooded country,
and then crosses a barren plateau to
Sivri-hissar (3J hra), a town with
a mixed population, in which there
are many sculptured blocks brought
from Teoe. The road now passes an
isolated hill, near a small lake, at the
foot of which are marble quarries.
Many partly hewn blocks with short
inscriptions remain on the ground.
Sighajik (1 hr.) is a walled town at
the head of a small, but safe harbour,
much frequented by coasting cruft.
The walls are almost entirely built of
marble blocks (on many of which are
inscriptions), brought from the ruins
of Teos which lie on a peninsula 1) m -
to the south.
2. By Vurla . — From Smyrna to
Vurla Iskdesi . by steamer. On a
small island, adjoining the soala, now
connected with the mainland by a
sandy isthmus, was CUuomenae , one
of the principal towns of Ionia.
Nothing remains, the stones having
been carried to Smyrna for building
Digitized by L^ooQle
109
Bouts 36 . — Vurla — Xingi.
purposes, but a partly submerged
causeway. The fine bay of Vurla
has often been the rendezvous of the
British and other fleets. From the
scala the way lies through cultivated
fields and vineyards to
Vurla (1 hr.), a prosperous town
built partly on a hill and inhabited
chiefly by Greeks. [From Vurla an
excursion may be made to BitrL
Bryihrae (7 hrs.), on a land-locked
harbour, at the W. end of the pen-
insula. The Hellenic walls with
their gateways are very interesting ;
the Acropolis , a mass of red treohyte
near the sea-shore, is a remarkable
feature ; at the springs, near the E.
gate, are many remains of aqueducts,
walls, terraces, and foundations of
buildings, of which one perhaps
marks the site of the temple of Her-
cules; there are also a theatre and
many inscriptions. The return jour-
ney may be made by Baliklava
(2| hrs.), and OUlrbaghche (3 hrs.) to
Vurla (2| hrs.), following a pictur-
esque road that skirts the Gulf of
Smyrna. From Vurla to Cheshme
(p. 170), is 9} hrs.1 The road from
Vurla to Sighajik f3| hrs.) runs over
cultivated ground, and low hills
covered with brushwood.
Teos, originally a Carian town, was
afterwards colonised by Athenians
and Boeotians. When attaoked by
the Persians the Teians abandoned
their city and removed to Thraoe.
At a later date it became a flourish-
ing commercial town, and was noted
for its fStes in honour of Baochus.
In a naval action off Teos the fleet of
Antioohus the Great was defeated by
the combined Roman and Rhodian
fleet The ruins of the city occupy
an isthmus, about 2} m. broad, con-
necting a rooky peninsula of no great
extent with the mainland. The walls,
which can be traced for the greater
part of their extent, are from 3 to 4 m.
in circuit, and are built of large
blocks set without mortar. The
foundations of the ceUa of a Corin-
thian Temple , probably that of Baoohus.
are visible ; and near it stand ooupled
columns, apparently marking the site
of an agora. Of the theatre the vomi-
tories alone remain.
Outside the walls, near the 8.E.
corner, there are the remains of a
small Homan temple. N. of this ruin
there is some marshy ground on whioh
the via sacra can be traoed by the
lines of lids and other portions of
sarcophagi. In the middle of the
marsh, near the bank of a small
stream, are the ruins of a square
building, apparently a mausoleum,
which stood within a peribolus formed
by pilasters of grey marble with
engaged columns at the sides. N. of
the walls are remains of other tombs.
Leaving Teos the shore is followed
past some tumuli to HypsiU (2 hrs.),
where the road turns to the left and
descends to the hot springs, Ifya;
here are a modern bath-house, and
the well-preserved ruins of a Roman
bath. About } m. nearer the sea are
the foundations of a Greek building.
Xingi, Lebedus (1} lire.). The ruins
consist of masses of stone and brick-
work, the basement of a small temple,
and some Doric columns. Lebedus
was an Ionian city, which owed its
prosperity to its trade, its fertile
territory, and the hot mineral springs
in its neighbourhood. It was nearly
destroyed by Lysimachus, who trans-
planted the population to Ephesus.
In Roman times the actors of all
Ionia had an annual mooting at
Lebedus, at which games were cele-
brated in honour of Dionysus. The
road onward leaves Megala Kimituria
to the left, and crosses the Develi-
keui Chai to Micra Kimituria (2 hrs.1.
It then runs over cultivated ground,
and passes some Hellenic ruins on a
hill 1 hr. before reaching Christian or
Giaour X. (6$). On a hill near the
sea, about 2 m. from Christian K., are
the ruins of
Notium, or Nea Colophon, the port
of Colophon, which was some distance
from the ooast Here Mr. Pullan’s
excavations brought to light a draped
colossal statue, much mutilated, a
Digitized by L^ooQle
110
Route 37.— Samsun Kalesi .
figure of a Roman Emperor, a rude
group representing *a lion devouring
a bull, and some large figures in high
relief, apparently belonging to a frieze.
The site of the theatre and part of
the town wall may still be seen.
Near Notium was Clarus , where there
was a temple of Apollo, and an oraole
of high antiquity, which, when con-
sulted by Germanious, foretold his
speedy death. The site is placed by
Ohandler at ZttU, & hr. from Christian
K., on the road which runs past
Tracha (old Colophon or Tratea ) and
Malkajik, a form belonging to Mr.
Van Lennep, the Norwegian Consul
at Smyrna, to
Develi K. (5J hrs.), on the Smyrna-
Aidin Railway (Rte. 34).
ROUTE 37.
SMYRNA — PRIENE — BRyiCHID4E~“
I A86U8 — BUD RUM.
HU.
PolotU (IfOrfui)
HterontU ( BrqncAidae )
Asia Kales! (last m) .
Qeurerjlnli for Bargylia
Budr&m (Halicamautu)
From Smyrna to Balachik> by Rte;
34, and thence by branoh line to
Morali , close to the ruins of Magnesia
ad Maeandrum (p. 100), Kemer , and
Sokia, a flourishing town which
derives its Turkish name 8o*uk K.
from the cool north wind which blows
down the pass behind it, and makes
it one of the healthiest places in the
plain. 8okia, which in great' part
owes its prosperity to the liquorice
manufactories established by British
enterprise, is situated at the foot of
the high rocky ridge, Myoale, Chat
forms the N. boundary of the broad
plain of the Maeander, as the *Five
Finders,” JBesh Parmak, of Mt. Latmus
do its southern boundary. Ifi the
neighbourhood are mines of lignite
cool, which is used in the liquorice
works, of emery t and of lead. There
are also some very fine fig orchards.
Them are good . khans and kahvehs r
but travellers should, if possible r
obtain introductions to the represen-
tatives of tho English firms. Scala
Nova can ho reached in 8 hrs. by a
path over tho hills. From Sokia tho*
rood onward follows the foot of tho
hill, past the Qreck village KeUbesh f
to
Samsfln Kalesi, Priene (2) hrs.).
Priene was one of the twelve Ionian
cities, and took a prominent part in
the religious solemnities at the Pani-
onia. It was the birthplace of Bias,
one of the seven sages ; and was visited
by Alexander, who, according to au
inscription, fouudud the temple of
Athene Polios.
The ruins of the ancient city rise
terrace above terrace on the steep
hillside. The old road to the Acro-
polis is now almost impracticable, and
the ascent is usually made by a path
that leads through the city walls to
an Agora , surrounded by drums of
Doric columns, at the side of which is
a massive platform of masonry. Here
stand the ruins of the Temple of
Minerva Polios , excavated by Mr.
Pullan for the Dilettanti Society in
1869. The excavations laid bare the
pavement and the walls of the colla,
which were found standing in some
places to a height of 6 ft The plinths
of the columns of the peristyle wero
found for the most part in situ, and
the columns of tho posticum were
standing to a height of 13 or 14 ft
The style is Dorio of the finest charac-
ter, and the exocutiou so porfect tliut
the joints of the stones are hardly
perceptible. Some fragments of the
colossal statue of Minerva mentioned'
by Pausanias, a fine head in the*
highest style of Greek art, several
interesting fragments of sculpture.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Ill
Route 37. — Palatia^— HierondoL
and inany valuable inscription* which
were uncovered by the excavations, are
now in the British Museum. The
other ruins are those of the city walls,
the bath*, and, on a lower level near
the plain, the foundations of a stadium,
and aymnasium. It is an hour’s climb
to the top of the Acropdis, whence
there is a magnificent view, embracing
Mt. LatmuS, the sea of Bafi, the ruins
of Miletus, and tho islands of Calym-
nofe, Patmos, Nicaria, and part of
Samos.
The sea washed thfe walls of Friene
hi the days of its prosperity, forhiing
a bay which extended as far oaths
Sea of Bafi (p. 115) i 1 but, during suc-
cessive centuries, the deposit brought
down by the Maeander has silted up
the bay, and the site is now 8 m. from
the shore. [From Prifene it is 2 hrs.
by a rough mountain path over Mycale,
to Chami, the site of the Panionium,
and thence 81 hrs. to Scala Nova.] A
ride of 2 hrs. from Priene, across the
plain* In the direction of the great
theatre of Miletus, which ik visible to
the naked eye, will bring the traveller
to a ferry ovter the Maeandor* and
after crossing the river he will soon*
reach r
Palatia, Miletus f3 hrs.), a fever-
stricken spot whicn should on no
aeoount be selected as a sleeping-plaoe.
MiletUs, originally a Oarian town,
became, after the arrival of the Ionians,
the most powerful maritime and com-
mercial oity of Ionia. Its ships sailed
to every part of the Mediterranean,
and on the shores of the Buxine it
founded over 75 colonies. Its most
prosperous period was prior to its
oonquest by the Persians (b.o. 494).
After the failure of the Ionian revolt,
and the defoat of the Ionians in the
naval aotion off the island of Lade,
now a mound in the plain 2 m. W. of
Palatia, the oity was plundered, and
its inhabitants expatriated. After the
battle of Mycale, the town joined the
Athenian confederacy, but towards
the ilose bf the Peloponnesian war it
threw off the yoke of Athens, and
defeated the Athenian fleet in ad
actio? fought undto its walls. After
its capture by Alexander, the import-
ance of Miletus declined; but, when
visited by 8. Paul (Acts xx. 17), it
enjoyed some prosperity, and it con-
tinued to exist for several centuries
after the Christian era.
The deposits of the Maeander have
filled up the four aheient harbours,
and turned the Tragasaean Islands,
which protected them, into mounds in
a swampy plain. The plan of the old
city cannot now be distinguished ; ex-
cepting a few fragnients, nothing is
visible but the theatre — the largest in
A. Minor — which, contrary to the
usual pnLctioe of the Qreelcs, stands
free, and is not out in the side of a
hill. E. of the theatre are the remains
of a tomb, which, like that at Cnidus,
was surmounted by a lion, how much
mutilated and lying on the ground.
From Palatia the road leads to Ak
Kent (Greek) ; and thenoe southwards
to
Hitronda* or Isronti (4 hrs.), come
time beforS reaching wliioh the stately
Ionic oolunins of the Temple of Apollo
Branchidae, the largest in* A. Minor,
are visible. Here was the most cele-
brated oracle of Apollo in Asia. The
history of its origin is obscure, but its
reputation was so wide-spread in the
7tn century B.a that Pharaoh Necho
sent it rich offerings ; Croesus also
sent gifts as magnificent as those be
offered at the sister shrine at Delphi.
After tho burning of tho temple by
Darius it appears to have been partly
rebuilt, but its destruction Was com-
pleted by Xerxes. It was subse-
quently reconstructed with greater
splendour; and Strabo says that on
account of its great size it had no
roof. •
The temple was apparently over-
thrown by an earthquake. It was
decostyle and peripteral, and had a
double row of columns round it On
the N. sidd* two of the outer row are
standing* surmounted by their archi-
trave ; on the 8. side one of the inner
row is unfitted. The columns are
60 ft in height, but are now buried
for ohe-third of their height Upon
the site of the pronaos a windmill is
Digitized by L^ooQle
112
Route 87. — A*in~kale$i — Budrtim.
built upon a maw of fallen stones.
At the other end the bases of several
columns are in situ. Within the oella,
the walls of whioh have fallen, is a
stone with a winged figure and foliage
soulptured on it, of the highest style
of art, and on the N. side ore soveral
beautiful capitals. Several of these
ate engraved in the Ionian Antiqui-
ties of the Dilettanti Society. From
the temple to the sea, a distance of
about 2 m., there was a via sacra,
bordered on either side by seated
figures and other sculptures, whioh
was excavated by Sir 0. Newton in
1859. The best preserved of the
figures are now in the British Museum,
and they show the connection between
early Greek and Egyptian art
From Hierouda the line of ooast,
which is barren but picturesque, is
followed to Akbu Keui (4J hrs.), where
there is a kahveh ; and thence a rough
mountain path leads to
Asin-kalesi (4} hrs.), a small village
wlioro shelter for the night can bo
obtained. A mile from the village
are the ruins of Iassus, a town of
Curia, which oocnpied the whole of a
small island now connected with the
mainland. It was founded by Argive
colonists, and acquired great wealth
from its fisheries and trade in fish.
During the Peloponnesian war it was
taken by the Lacedemonians, and
it was afterwards besieged by Philip V.
ofMaoedon. The walls, partly ancient,
partly mediaeval, are standing in
places. The best preserved building
is the theatre, the seats of which, orna-
mented with lion's paws, are almost
all in plaoe. One or the side walls is
Hellenic, and is pierced by a door
similar to that at Assos (p. 66) ; the
other appears to be a reconstruction
of later date. There are numerous
inscriptions and remains of Hellenic
buildings, but the ground is so oovered
with brushwood that exploration is
difficult. On the mainland is an ex-
tensive Necropolis, whioh contains
Roman, Greek, and earlier tombs;
and near it is a massive defensive
n built of large stones, the object
ioh is not clear. . The mountains
near Iassus furnished beautiful
marbles, of a blood red, and livid
white oolour, whioh were in great
reaueet for ornamental purposes. The
red marble was used in decorating the
Ohuroh of S. Sophia at Constantinople.
From Asin-kalesi the road winds
round the head of the dulf of Men •
ddia , and crosses the Sari Ohai before
reaching TeUrhambar (2) hrs.)— a
feverish place, apparently Passala ,
the port of Mylasa (p. 115). 1 hr. from
the village are the ruins of a Greek
temple on a small eminenoe. The
road continues through Sertmash to
Oeuvsxjinli (8) hrs.), which is 2 hrs.
8. of
A ssarilk, Bargylia . on a peninsula
jutting out into a shallow salt lake
that was once an arm of the sea.
The ruins include a small temple, a
small odeum, a Doric portico, and a
temple on the shore. At Bargylia
was a statue of Artemis Oindyas,
upon which it was said neithor snow
nor rain evor fell. The site may
also be visited from Sertmash. From
Geuverjinli the route partly follows
the line of the old paved road to
Budrfim, Halicarnassus (5 hrs.),
beautifully situated on the shore of a
small bay, divided into equal parts
by a promontory on whioh stands tlie
Oastle of S. Peter. On the W. of the
castle lies the Turkish town, consist-
ing of detached houses in the midst
of gardens and a small bazftr on the
sea-shore. On the E. side is the
Greek town, following the line of the
beaoh.
The site combines great beauty
with other natural advantages. The
climate is one of the best in the
Levant— subject to no extremes of
heat or cold. The harbour, when pro-
tected by its mole, must have been a
secure one, and it is still muoh fre-
quented in winter. In the bay E. of
the oastle there is anohorage for
men-of-war, protected by the island
Orak Ada (Aroonnetitt). In the gar-
dens along the shore the fig, almond,
lemon, orange, and olive trees grow
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 37 .-
in great luxurianoe. The inhabitants ,
chiefly Moslems, are remarkable for
their orderly and industrious habits,
and for their courtesy to travellers.
There is a fair Ichdn.
Halicarnassus waft one of the six
towns constituting the Dorio Hezapolis
in A. Minor, and was the largest
and strongest city in Oaria. It sub-
mitted to Persia, but does not seem to
have lost its Greek character. Under
Persian rule there was a dynasty of
Carian princes, founded by Lygdamis,
and these vassal kings resided at
Halicarnassus. Queen Artemisia
fought at Salamis with the fleet of
Xerxes. The most celebrated of the
family are Mausolus, and his wife and
sister Artemisia, who, on the death of
Mausolus, erected in his honour a
monument, the Mausoleum, which
was one of the Seven Wonders of the
ancient world. Alexander destroyed
the city, but could not take the
acropolis, Salrnaois, and from this
blow it never recovered. Halicar-
nassus was the birthplace of the
historians Herodotus and Dionysius.
Vitruvius describes the topography
of tho city with groat aoouraoy. The
site, he says, is in form like a theatre,
bounded on either side by a horn
(promontory) jutting out into the sea.
In the centre, on the shore, is the
Agora, overlooking which, half way
up the curve, is the Mausoleum, and
between the fortified heights above, tho
Temple of Mars. On the right horn is
tho Temple of Venus and Mercury , on
the left the Palace of Mausolus, over-
looking a closed port for triremes, and
an arsenal.
The harbour bends round in a curve,
terminating on one side in a promon-
tory, and on the other in a rock con-
nected with the mainland by a sandy
isthmus. These two headlands are
the “ horns ” of Vitruvius. Along the,
shore of the harbour lies a narrow strip
of fertile ground sloping gradually
upward to the foot of steep rocky
heights, which shut in the view north-
ward and form the natural defence on
the land side.
The form and extent of the anoient
dty ate defined by the walls, which
I Turkey .]
— BudrUrn . 113
are in fine preservation throughout
the greater part of their circuit. That
part of the E. wall near the sea was
used by the Knights of 8. John in the
construction of the castle. The flank-
ing towers of the gate on the W.,
leading towards Myndus, now Tem-
isMu, are in good condition. As these
walls must have been built by
Mausolus when he enlarged the city,
they are valuable as a specimen of
Hellenio fortifications of about b.o.
360 .
On the E. side of the harbour, the
ruins of an ancient mole mark the
position of the small closed port men-
tioned by Vitruvius. As the Palace
of Mausolus stood on the left horn,
overlooking this port, it probably
occupied an eminence, immediately
E. of the Turkish oemetery on the
isthmus, where the rock has been
levelled to reoeive foundations. The
arsenal probably extended from the
port to the oemetery. The rocky
peninsula now occupied by the Oastle
of 8. Peter was apparently the for-
tress in the island mentioned by
Arrian in his account of tho sioge of
Halicarnassus by Alexander tho
Great. Probably the fortress was
once separated from the mainland by
a canal, And connected with the
palace and arsenal by a drawbridge.
The position of the Palace of Mausolus
being fixed, the site of the Temple of
Venus and Mercury must be looked
for on or noar the opposite point,
Kaplan - kalesi. No trace or the
temple has yet been found, nor has
the fountain Sdlmacis , near which it
was situated, been identified. The
fortress Sdlmacis mentioned by
Ahrian, probably Stood dn Kaplan-
kalesi.
The central positions in the descrip-;
tion of Vitruvius are fixed by Sir C.'
Newton’s discovery of the site of the'
Mausoleum immediately N. of the
Konak. The site of the tomb itself is
marked by a small mound raised
during the excavations. Several
Turkish houses still oocupy the plat-
form, and in their Stills may bo seen
fragments of marble from the Mauso-
leum. A little N. of tho site is a*
i
Digitized by
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114
Routs 37. — Budrum.,
large platform which occupies a com-
manding position, corresponding to
that assigned by Vitruvius to the
Temple of Mar*. Here Sir 0. Newton
uncovered the foundations of a large
Ionic temple, probably erected by
d a u bolus, as it seems to bo of the
same period as the tomb.
A little to the N. of the Mausoleum
is a theatre in which may have been
recited that tragedy by Theodectea,
and that oration by Theopompiw to
which, respectively, were adjudged
prizes at the funeral games instituted
by Artemisia in honour of Mausolus.
To the E. of the Mausoleum is a
Doric Colonnade , of the Roman period,
half buried in the soil. On one side
of these columns, whioh perhaps
formed part of a stoa or portioo, a
coarse tesselated pavement was
found. a _
The picturesque Cattle of S. truer
was built by the Knights of Rhodes.
It was commenced in 1404 when de
Naillao was Grand Master, and, from
the natural advantages of its site, its
uiuasive walls and its loirgo l’osso, was
a place of great strength. In tho
walls are the shields of nearly all the
Grand Masters from de Naillao to
Oaretto (1518-21), and with them are
associated the shield of the Order,
and the shield of the Captain of the
Castle for the time being. The tower
at the S.E. angle containing the Re-
fectory was built by Englishmen.
High up on the W. wall art the arms
of England, and over the doorway on
the N. side is a fine display of English
heraldry. The oentral shield con-
tains the arm, of Henry IV. ; and of
the 22 shields beneath, 17 are those
of Knights of the Garter 6 bear the
arms of Plautagonet, and 16 the arms
of well known soldiers of distinction.
In the outer Bayle is a small chapel ,
now a mosque. The castle was partly
built out of the ruins of the Maiwo.
leum, and part of the frieze (12 slabs),
which had been inserted as ornaments
in the walls, were obtained for the
British Museum by Lord Stratford de
Redcliffe. Six colossal lions heads,
in Parian marble, which had also
been inserted iu the walls, were re-
moved to England in 1857 by Sir 0.
Newton's expedition. .
Outside the gate on the Which
led to Mylasa, the ancient road i*
marked by tombs, several of which
were opened by Sir 0. Newton. On
the W., outside the gate loading tq
Myndus, the ancient road was bordered
by tombs and massive sarcophagi, and
cippi of the Roman period.
According to Pliny the Maueoleum
was 140 ft- high, and 411 ft. in cir-
cumference- A peripteral building
or Pteron , surrounded by 36 columns
and surmounted by a pyramid, formed
the principal feature in die design.
Above the pyramid was a colossal
group of a churiot with four horses,
executed by PythiS. The height of
the Pteron was equal to that of the
pyramid with the chariot, each being
87 J ft This gives 75 ft., and leaves
65 ft for a lofty basement. The
sculpture was executed in Parian
marble, and was esteemed of the
highest merit The excavation* carried
out by Sir O. Nowton in 1857-58
brought to light four slabs of the
frieze, a colossal equestrian figure,
several lions, the entire order of the
Pteron , two’ colossal figures in several
pieces, the halves of two horses on
the same scale, and fragments of a
chariot' wheel. These sculptures,
which formed part of the chariot
group, are now in the British
Museum.
The results of the excavations are
embodied in the restoration of the
Mausoleum made by Mr. Pullan, and
may be briefly summarised. The
Mausoleum stood on a lofty basement
of green rag-slone. The order of the
Pteron was Ionic, and its height Was
found by measurement to be very
nearly that given by Pliny. Every
detail of the architecture was executed
with the utmost refinement, and set
off by red and blue colour, which, on
many fragments, was quite fresh on
their first discovery. The frieze, of
which four slabs were discovered, was
the external frieze of the Pteron ; but
portions of two other friezes were
found. The lions wore evidently
numerous, and wore probably placed
Digitized by
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Route 88. — Mildi.
115
in the inter -colomniations of the
Pteron.
Budrftm can be reached by boat
from Koe, which is about 15 m. S.W.
ROUTE 38.
SMYRNA— MILA t-HMAKRI.
Solds, by Rail.
Sekls-tmrna (Pyrrha ?)
Bell ....
mhi> (smomi .
Kild-htaMur (Straicmktn)
M&gfet* (JMoUa)
Ktnjet
Mskrt (rrfwttwi)
6
•*
•I
13*
19
From Smyrna to Sokin by Uto. 37.
Thcnoe for 4) hrs oyer the plain of
the Maeander, passing near a monml
Eut-bashi (1*)» to Sari-kemer \ a bridge
oyer the river, built chiefly of old
material. The left bank of the
Maeander is now followed down to
Mds-buxmu, Pyrrho ? (6 hrs.),
which is 1 hr. from Miletus (p. 111).
The road now lies partly over wooded
hills that fall steeply to the 8. shore
of the Bafi Deniti, “Sea of Bail,”
ancL Latmient Sinn*, a deep bay that
has been turned into an inland lake
by the deposits of the Maeander. On
the N. snore of the lake is Beth
Parmak D. (ML. TxUmut), celebrated
in Greek mythology as the plaoe
where Artemis kissed the sleeping
Endymion, Here there are mine* of
hematite iron ore of the finest quality
which have been worked from the
earliest periods, but always in a rode
way.
Bafi (6 hrs.), a small village among.
wooded hills. About 2 hrs. from
Bail are the rains of Reradia ad
L atmw m* beautifully situated, on the
shore of the lake at the foot of Latmus.
Here are the oella of a small Doric
temple, an agora, and several h ous es
of late Roman or Bysaatine times.
A cava near the town was shown as
the grave of Endymion, The way
now lies for 8ft hra. over the spurs of
the KatikU D., and through a well-
wooded pass to Mendelia — a pic-
turesque village with an andeot gate,
whenoe It is 6 hra to Tekirbambar
112). Half an hour beyood Men-
fella is Takli, near which are the
ruins of Euromutj consisting of a
beautiful Corinthian tempi*, standing
in a recess in the hills, and the foun-
dations of other buildings.
Kills, Mylaea (Sf hra), a place of
considerable importance, situated in a
fertile plain, at the foot of a steep
overhanging mountain, partly com-
posed of white marble. It has fine
lemon and orange groves, and a large
moeque, built out of the ruins of the
Temple of Augustus and Rome.
Mylaea was a very ancient Oarian
city, and the residence of the Oarian
princes before they moved to Hali-
carnassus. It was noted for the
number and beauty of its temples,
but of these little is left Every
house and wall, however, is built with
the stones* of the old town, of which
some mall*, a beautiful Corinthian
arched gateway, and a single fluted
column, remain standing. The great/
temple of Zeus Carius is supposed to
have been on the acropoHe, A little
outside of the town there is a maaso-
loum, which stands on a high, square
basement The upper part terminated
in a pyramid, the lower steps of which
still remain. [From MUde to BndrAm
by Geuveijinll (Kte. 37) is 11 hrs.1
After crossing the plain the road
runs over broken ground to
Sski-hissar, Stratonieea (64 hra),
a small village, in and around which
are the ruins of the town founded by
Antioohus Boter, and named after his *
wife Stratonice. Near it was the .
I 2
Digitized by
Google
116 Route 39. — Mdghla — Arab-hwar.
Temple of Zeus Chrysaoreus, at which
the confederate towns of Oaria held
their meetings. The ancient city
covered a large area. One cells of a
temple stands in the centre of the
town, and on its walls are many
inscriptions. There are also the re-
mains of other temples , and of a theatre,
in which are the inscribed pedestals
of several statues. All the buildings
appear to have been of white marble.
Many broken columns, and 2 or 8
fine arches and doorways, are still
standing. From Eeki-hissar the road
lies up the valley of the Giimush
Chai, and over the slope of the hills
on whioh stands
Mfighla, MoboUa (6 lira), alt-
2000 ft, a large Moslem town witk
fine vineyards and flg-ordtards. About
1 m. to the N.B. is a steep rock,
apparently the acropolis, from the
summit of which there is an extensive
view. The approach to it is marked
by square niches and grottoes which
have ueen cut in the rock. On leaving
MOglila the road runs over the plain
and crosses a ridge to Ula (3} hre.).
It then passes through a fine forest
district, and over several mountain
spurs to the valley of the Namlam
Chai , which it follows, pertly over a
swampy plain, to the Keujex Oeul.
On the shores of the lake are Yangi
and
Keqjei (9 hrs.). The road now
crosses a high ridge, from which good
views of the lake are obtained, to the
valley of the Dalaman Chai, anct.
Indus, and, after fording the river,
runs on to Dalaman (6 hrs.). From
this point it is 4 hrs. by a rough road
over wooded hills to Qeujek, a store-
house on the ooast, near which several
rook-hewn tombs and niches, some of
much beauty, are passed. The route
onward, one of the most picturesque
in A. Minor, passes over wooded hills,
and descends to the ooast plain 1 hr.
before reaching
Kakri, Tdmessus (10 hrs.), charm-
ingly situated on an almost land-
locked harbour. The plaoe is very
unhealthy on aoooimt of the marshes
on the plain, and in summer it is
almost forsaken by its inhabitants.
Tdmessus, one of the most anoient
towns of Oaria, was oelebrated for the
skill of its diviners, who were con-
sulted by Croesus and Alexander.
There is no Hellenic masonry on the
acropolis i the walls are mediaeval,
but contain some inscriptions . There
are traces of rock-hewn houses similar
to those in the Phrygian towns. The
theatre is in good preservation; but
the sarcophagi of Lycian type, and
the remarkable rock-hewn tombs, are
the principal objeots of interest The
most important tomb has an Ionio
portioo. Drawings of some of the
tombs and sarcophagi are given by
Follows (A. Minor). On the W. side
of the Qulf, on the promontory that
ends in Cape Suvla, Mr. Theodore
Bent discovered the mins of Lydae (a
temple, tombs, and two well-preserved
heroa).
ROUTE 39.
AIDIN'”" ALABANDA — MUQHLA*—
MARMARICE.
HRS.
Arab-hlsur (Alabanda) . . a
Heins (Lagina) .... 7
Mfiglil* {MoboUa) ... 8
Geuk-Absd (Idyma) . . .6
Marm.irice (Phytcut) . . .7
After leaving Aidiu the rood crosses
the Maeander and runs up the valley
of the China Chai, anct Marsyas, to
Arab-hissar, Alabanda (8 hrs.).
The ruins occupy an area 1 m. long
and | m. wide ; and all the walls aro
of granite. The roads to the gate-
ways are marked by lines of soroi,
some of them bearing inscriptions.
There are the remains of a theatre.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 40 . — Onidus.
117
and near it a fine oblong structure,
with a oornioe 80 ft above the ground,
and above that the bases of pilasters.
The interior is a mass of ruin, and
affords no olue to the former use of
tlio building. The Ionic Order alone
seems to have been employed in the
town.
[ AraJb-hissar to Mild* (13| lire.).
The road runs by the large village of
Karputu to Dsmirji-dsresi, Alinda
(41 hrs.). The ruins of the old town,
which was one of the strongest places
in Caria, are picturesque ana in-
teresting. Its situation on a steep
granite crag is perfectly Greek. In
places wide flights of rock-hewn steps
give access to the city. A wide paved
road lined with soroi leads to the main
gate. Near this there is a terrace
wall 330 ft. long, beyond it a series of
sauare rooms, and above them a row
of square pilasters, with a half Doric
column on each side of them. Ad-
joining it is the theatre : most of the
seats and a great part of the enclosing
wall remain. There aro many other
ruins of largo buildings. Above all
is the acropolis , which consists of a
tower and walls of cxoellent Greek
masonry; some of the stones are 14 ft.
long.
from Alinda the road ascends
through forests of pine and pictur-
esque soenery to the head of the pass
over the range of Mt Latmus (41 br&X
whenoo there is a good view over the
valley of the Sari Choi. In descend-
ing, the cella of a temple witli columns
in antis , and lighted by windows, is
passed about 12 m. from Milas (5 lire.).
SeeRte.8 8.]
The Mflghla road runs over the
hills to the small village of
Ileina, Lagina (7 lire.), in which is
a mosque built with old material.
About 1 bn distant are the ruins of
the Temple of Hecate, whioh was
apparently overthrown by an earth-
quake. There are many inscriptions .
The road now runs over the spurs of
the hills to Sski-hissar (2 hrs.),
whenoe Bte. 88 is followed to XfighU
(6 hre). Some hilly ground is now
crossed and there is then a sharp
descent to the ooast An old castle,
whioh was perhaps a Greek acropolis,
is passed about 4 hr. before reaching
Geuk-abad, or Giova, Iduma (5 hre.),
a feverish place with a good anohorage.
The hills behind the village rise to a
height of 2600 ft The road now lies
over rough ground to
Jfarmarios, Phvscus (7 hrs.). The
beautiful land-locked harbour of Mar-
marice has frequently been the station
of the British fleet during troubles in
the Levant, and Nelson anchored in
it shortly before the Battle of the Nile.
The village is a wretched place with
bad water. It is opposite Rhodes
(80 m. distant), and was defended by
a castle built by the Knights. At
Assarlik, about J m. off, are remains
of Hellenic walls, and of a mediaeval
castle.
i
ROUTE 40.
ONIDU8.
This place, is reached with diffi-
culty. it is situated at the extre-
mity of a peninsula 90 miles long,
which has but few villages, and which
contains no other object of interest
Few travellers would willingly en-
counter the tedious journey necessary
to approach it by land. It can, how-
ever, be reached by kalk from Budrftm
in about 8 hre, or from the island of
Kos in 3 hre Its modern name is
Kavo Krio.
Onidus covered a great extent of
ground, partly on the mainland and
partly on the Triopian promontory a
bold headland, once an island, united
to the peninsula by a narrow isthmus
Digitized by L^ooQle
118
Boute 41. — Qeira.
There was a port on each side of the
isthmus ; the piers and sea-walls still
remain. The acropolis stood on a
precipitous mountain on the W. of
the town, and below it on ground
descending to tho harbour are nu-
merous terraces on which the chief
structures of the city were placed.
Cnidus possessed several temples, but
it was chiefly renowned for the Shrine
of Venue and for the statue of the
goddess by Praxiteles. The sites of
these temples and their enclosures are
clearly marked, and the whole plan
of the city can be traced by any spec-
tator who looks down upon it from
the acropolis or from the top of the
promontory.
In 1867-58 Sir 0. Newton excavated
a temenoe dedicated to Demeter and
Persephone, and found there the fine
seated figure of the former, which is
now in the British Museum. On a
promontory about 3 m. from Cnidus
was discovered the enormous Cnidiau
lion now in the British Museum.
The lion stood upou a lofty tomb of
the Doiio order.
Cnidus was the ohief city of the
Dorian Ilexapolis, and here were cele-
brated the Triopian games. There
were two theatres and an odeum here ;
the last is in very perfect condition.
Tho necropolis extends for several
miles outside the city to the E. Here
may be seen tombs of all shapes and
dutea. Almost all of them have been
rifled years ago.
The nearest village, Yasi Keui , is
6 m. from the ruins. It lies in a small
plain surrounded by mountains. The
chief village on the peninsula is
DcUsha, 4 hrs. from Cnidns.
ROUTE 41.
SMYRNA— NAZLI— APHRODI8IA8—
DENIZLI.
BBS.
Nszli, by B*iL
Ksra-so . . .7*
Osin (Apkroditiat) . .. .a
Ksra-hlassr . . . 8
Denlsli . . .9
From Smyrna to Nadi, by ltte. 34.
About 1} hrs. after leaviug Nazli, tho
Maeander is crossed by a wooden
bridge, and the road then runs up
the I bank of the river to the valley
of the Kara Su, anct Morsynus , from
the mouth of which there is a fine view
of the range of Messogis behind Nazli
and Aidin. Here the road turns to
the rt, leaving Antiochia ad Maean -
drum (acropolis walla, stadium, and
small theatre) to the loft, and ascends
the pretty valley of the Kara Su to
Ali-agha Chijtlik , Yenije (4J hrs.).
aud Kara-su (3} hrs.), a village, noted
for its pottery, which stands on the
hill-side above the valley.
Oeira, Aphrodisias (2 lirs.), alt.
2000 ft., on level ground at the foot
of Baba D. } anct Aft SaOxums.
Aphrodisias was a town of Caria, and
a place of old foundation. One of its
privileges, confirmed by Oosar, was
the rignt of asylum. About the end of
the 4tn century it was made a bishop-
ric, metropolis of Eparohia Oarias,
and from tho last word comes its
present name. The name was also
changed to Stauropolis , to avoid
speaking of Aphrodisias. It was a
bishopric as late as 1450.
Tho ruins are amongst the best
preserved in A. Minor. The city walls,
rebuilt in the 8rd or 4th century,
on old foundations, with material 1
from earlier buildings, ore interesting.
Broken capitals, architraves, friezes,
columns, drc., of various dates, have
been used, and on many of the blocks
are inscriptions. Four of the gates are
Digitized by
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Houle 42.— Vaicif. ' lift
in a fair state of preservation. The
principal rain is that of the Temple of
Venoa, Aphrodite, from whom the
town took its name. It waa of the
Ionio Order, oc tasty le, and dipteral.
16 Ionio oolumna, tome bearing in-
scriptions, are standing, but of the
oeila nothing remains, aa the temple
waa tamed into a church, on the rains
of which Christian emblems and in-
scriptions may be seen. Within the
temenoe, wbioh was richly decorated,
are some small baildinjr^-one of them
of the Corinthian Order, poMib|y »
heroon. Two of the spiral oolumna of
the facade are still standing. The
stadium, oh the N.W., has 26 rows
of seats, and is well p r eserved ; there
is also a theatre Near the village
are the rains of a Corinthian building,
perhaps an agora. The whole ground
is covered with prostrate columns of
marble and granite; and there are
many tombs and sarcophagi, some of
the latter finely Sculptured, in the
fields and gardens. Drawings of the
rains were made many years ago for
tho Dilettanti 8ociety.
[There is a direct bat difficult toad
from Geira to Dcnisli (about 15 hr*.),
by Assnr (Attuda) and Kadik (7m-
petopoUs), on tbo N. slope of Baba D.]
On leaving Geira the road runs over
fairly level ground past Emir K. and
Tekke K., and there ia then a long,
bnt not steep ascent to the bead of
the pass, Cham Bel (5} bra.), alt.
3800 ft On the way up there are
constantly changing views of snow-
capped ^olbocus, and on reaching the
summit there ia a grand View over thS
upland plain Davos Ovdsi , to Khonas
V. (Mt. Cadmus ), and the lofty range
of the Bos D . The descent to Kara-
hlssar (2| hrs.) on the plain, alt 3300
ft, is easy. From this point it is 4 brS.
to Davos, abet Tabae , on the 8. side
of the plain, where there are remains
of the old town.
[A road runs, from Kara-hissar,
across the plain to Utun-bunar (3
hrs.), and Kit iJJa (1 hr.), wlioro sonio
scattered mamas of stone mark the
site of SebastopoHs. From KJnUa the
road cr osse s a low, easy pass, Damon
BA, to AJi Pamam (fi hra), prettily
situated at the 8.W. end of the great
plain of Kara-euynk-basir (p. 120).
Tbcnbe the road runs along the 8. end
of the plain, and crossing tho OerMt
Chai ’, aoct Indus, to Seder Beg (2
lira), keeps np the valley to Khartum,
anci Cwgra (5 bra). Bee Eta 42.]
The Denial! road runs E. to Takt£
HeraoUa ad 8aJbaeum (| hr.), where
are the remains of a temple, an amr
nkitheatre, and an acropolis. The
large size of some of the stones is
remarkable. It then continues over
the plain to Kilija-boluk (1) bra),
whence it is 6 hra to Kara-euymk-
batdr, by Kara Ova and Kisil-hissar.
At Kilga-boluk the road turns N.
and cross e s Mt Salbacns by the Bcdra
Pass f it passes through some very
fine mountain soenery, at times run-
ning at the edge of precipices from
800 to 900 ft. high, and at others
through magnificent forests. There
is a steady ancon t of 2} lira, to the
bend of tho (him, 4 100 ft, and Uiun a
rapid descent of H lira to
DenisU (7} hra), see Ulo 34.
ROUTE 42.
SMYRNA— DtNIZU— «J*AU—
AD ALIA. . J
‘ DenltH, by lull.
K*ra-«tiyiik-h*iir (Tksmisonit
Kborium (I'tbym) .
SUgfll . . .
Blmall •
YeniJ* Kshvch (Yma^wiw)
AdsUs ( AUalie ) , ,
0
•
U
9
13*
e
From 8myrna to Denial i * by* tail
(lUo. 31). Tho rood from Dcnizli
runs up tlw glen of the Chukur Qu,
Digitized by L^ooQle
120
Route 42.— Tefenni — Istanoz .
and oyer the pass, Kotik Bet, 8800 ft.,
between the Baba D. (SaWacus), ana
the Khonas D. (Cadmus) to Kisil-
hiflsar (7} bra.). The scenery is fine,
and the path near the head of the
pass, on both sides, iq steep and
rough.
Kara - enynk - b&sfcr, Themisonium
(2 hrs.), alt 2650 ft, in a lam upland
plain which, in spring, is in jplaces
an almost impassable morass. Beside
the yillage is a large tumulus , and
through the plain runs the riyer
Catanes, a tributary of the Indus.
[Kara-euyuk-baz&r to Dineir (241
hrs.). The road runs by the Saida
QetU, anct Aulindenus hums to Kaya-
dibi, Diocacsarea - Ocretapa (4 hrs.),
which lies under the snadow of a
lofty peak ; and then on to Yarashli,
Taliina (5} hrs.) — sarcophagi and
inseriptions. It then follows the N.
shore of the Buldur Qeul, Ascania
Limne (p. 150), to Kilij (9 lire.), and
runs on to Kechi-borlu (p. 149), and
Dineir (6J lire.), see Rte. 84J
Two routes may Ijc followed from
Kara-euyuk-hasdr to A dahlia.
(1.) By Tefenni and Istanoz (841
hrs.). The road lies along the plaiu at
the foot of the eastern hills to K&m-
afshar (5 hrs), passing (L) the site of
Ertza, near Dere K., beside which is
a market in the plain, Ishkian Bazar ,
and that of Phylacaeum, near Dodurga,
in a fertile valley. 1 hr. beyond the
village it turns to the 1., and orossee
the wooded hills to
Tefenni (6J hrs.), a small Moslem
village, with a fine spring, near which
was the Imperial estate of the Ormdeis.
At Tefenni, and also at YuvdLik, 1)
hr. distant, are rude reliefs cut in the
rock which, from the Greek inscrip-
tions, appear to be connected with the
worship of the Phrygian “ Saviour
Qod,” Sozon or Saoazius. After
crossing the Tefenni plain by Euyuli ,
there is a slight ascent to
Hasten Pasha X. (8 hrs.), whence
it is 2} hrs. N.E. to the ruins of
Olbasa, on a hill commanding the
1 >lain. The road now crosses the
ower spurs of the Kararkaw D. t and
asoends the valley of the Ghent Choi
anct. Ly$U, to a low col (4 hrs.), 5200
ft., beyond which lies Barsak Yailasi.
After a sharp descent through a narrow
rooky ravine ( Sdlamurt Boghaz), to
Sirlekler , the valley of the Istanos
Choi , anct Colobatus , is followed to
Istanos, Isinda (4 hrs.), a large vil-
lage on the rt bank of the river with
small hasdr, and good gardens. The
modern name is from tls r& Srcrd.
[Another rood from KQin-nfshar is
along the N. side of the Siigiit Geul
( Caralitis P.), 8. of Rabat D., and
then either by Ali Fakhr-ed-din
Yaila (Lagbe) to Barsak Yailasi (by
which route the Romans under Man-
lius marched in b.o. 189), or, keeping
by tho lake, past Manai direct to ls-
tanoz.] The rood now runs E., and,
after fording the Istanos Chat, orosses
tli© broad valloy to Xsklijs Kahveh
(2J hrs.), alt 8000 ft., at tho mouth of
the rocky glen, up which lies the way
to Injerlik Kahveh and Yenijs Kahveh,
(3) lire.), alt. 1800 ft. The pass is
rough and impracticable for wheeled
transport which has to follow the road
down the Istanoz Gliai to KiziL-kaya.
Close to Yenije Kahyeli are the rums
of
Termessus, a Pisidian town noted for
tho natural strength of its position,
and for its formidable fortifications.
Alexander tho Great forced tho defile,
but made no attempt to storm the
town. Manlius, after relieving Isinda,
approached Termessus, and obliged
the people to pay 50 talents ; he then
continued his march down the valley
of the Istanoz Chai, anct Taurus .
The ruins cover a large area, aud, tho
site never having been oocupied in
Moslem times, they are most interest-
ing. The path leads up the steep
mountain side, and in } hr. an
ancient guard house is passed ; from
this a paved road lined with sarco-
phagi leads to a secoud guard house,
with two arched gateways 20 miu.
Digitized by L^ooQle
121
Bouts 42 . — Khorzum^-SugUt.
higher up. In another 20 min. the
path peases through the first wall and
enters a narrow ravine on the L which
is shut in by lofty precipices. Here
is a confused neap of limestone blocks ;
on the L are many tombs and sarco-
phagi, and on the rt. a lam gateway
belonging to a temple. About half-
way up the ravine is a fine spring,
and a little further the second wall,
extending from cliff to cliff across the
ravine. Above this is a second spring ,
near which are the remains of large
buildings; and at the head of the
ravine, the third wall , which barred
all aooess from the valley below. On
a spacious terrace beyond this wall,
and only approached by a long flight
of steps, was the upper city. Here
were a grand portico , the pedestals of
which are tn situ ; an agora with
buildings round it, and large cisterns
under its pavement ; a Doric building,
and two small temples near it ; a well-
preserved theatre to which a street of
columns led from the agora ; and on
the N.W. and N. many sarcophagi
atid rock-hewn tombs. The only Chris-
tian building is a monastery wi th church
attached. The walls, which are very
perfect, nro Greek ; the othor bnildingB
are principally Romau.
From Yenije Kahveh the road con-
tinues down the pasB, in which are
many anoient cisterns, and reaches
its mouth in about 1$ hrs. ; it then
ruos over a plateau for 2 hrs., aud
descending to a stony plain, covered
with brushwood, crosses it to Adalia
(6 hrs.).
(2.) By Cibyra and. Elmali (45
hrs.). The traveller can follow the
E. or W. side of the broad valley
to Khorzum ; the distance is the same
in either cose. In the former the
road passes through KAm-afshar and
Cham K. ( inscriptions ). In the latter,
it runs to Beder Bey (4 hrsA Here
the two branches of the Indus, both
flowing through wide fertile valleys
— one Trom the N., tho other from the
8. — unite before running off south-
ward, as the Qerenis, and lower down
the Dalaman Chai, to the sea W. of
MakrL Tho village of Yusufji is
passed 1 hr. before reaohing
Xhorsum (5 hrs.), a village with
orchards and fine walnut-trees at the
edge of the groat plain. The ruins of
Cibyra are 500 it. above the plain,
ana the way to them lies up a ravine
in the chalk hills. At the head of
the asoent, on the L, is the stadium,
partly excavated in the hill-side, and
higher up, to the N.W., is the theatre.
8. of the theatre is a well-preserved
Odeum. A paved road bordered by
tombs and sarcophagi leads to one of
the gates.
Cibyra was the ohief town of a
tetrapolis, the other three towns being
Bubon, Balbura, and Oenoanda. It
was under tyrants and became so
powerful that it could put 80,000 foot
and 2000 cavalry into the field. It
was noted for its good laws and the
skill of its people as workers in iron.
Manlius, on his march to Galatia,
compelled Moagetes the tyrant to pay
100 talents and 10,000 medimmi of
wheat The last tyrant, also a
Moagetes, was deposed by Murena
B.a 84. During the Roman period it
was a place of groat trade in iron
obtained from mines in the neighbour-
hood, in wheat, and in wool. A road
ran from Cibyra through tho Ormoleis
(Trfenni\ Tymbrionassus ( Einesh ),
and by the shore of tho Ascania Limne
(Buldur Geul) to Apamea ( Dineir\
After leaving Khorzum, the river
is forded, and the road runs over the
plain passing, in 2) hrs., Oeul-hissar
(rt), on a rooky islet in a lake,
connected with the mainland by a
causeway. 2} hrs. further is Baindir ,
on a large stream, and then, after
crossing some grass-covered hills, the
SUgiit Gmd , anot Caralitis Palus, on
the 8. side of whioh is
flttgttt f 7 } hrsA The lake is a large
gloomy sheet or water, half covered
with a thick growth of reeds and cane.
It has no outlet and partially dries
up in summer. On the N. shore rises
the high rango of Bahat />., at the
foot of whioh is the road used by
Manlius. [From Sflgttt it is 8 hrs. to
Istanot by the 8. side of the lake;
aud 1 1 hrs. to Keklije Kahveh (p. 120)
by Ilia.] The Uunali road crosses
Digitized by
Google
122 Route 42. — Elmali — Adalia.
the hills to Ohoban-tsa, and 3 hrs.
further enters
Klmall (9 hrs.), “ place of apples,"
a large town in a recess in the nills,
whioh rise closely round it on every
side exoept the 8.WV On this side
there is a broad opening, filled with
orchards and gardens, to a wide plain,
at the lower end of whioh is the lake
Avian Oeul. There is a larjje mosque
with a fine court, but the chief interest
lies in the people , who have little
Turkish blood in their veins, and
whose costume is picturesque and
varied.
[Two roads, both passing through
lovely mountain scenery, lead in 3
days from Elmali to Makri (p. 116).
The first runs through Eski-hissar
(ruins), and over the Kuyali Bel ,
6300 ft., to 8 eidUar YaUa , and on
by Oenoanda ( Inje-alilar ), and Araxa
< [Euren ) on the Xanthua, to Telmessus
(Makri). The second runs S. of the
A k D., and Massicytus. about 1 0,000 ft.,
and passes through Komba (Qeumbe)
and Aranda (Area) to the Xanthua
valley 8. of Tlos (Rte. 43). An
interesting route runs in 3 days from
Elmali to Finelca (p. 125) ; it crosses
the plain to Podalia, anct Podalia ,
and passing round the Avian Geul
runs over tlie hills to the valley of
the Bash-keuz Chai t anct. Arycanduz,
in whioh lie the ruins of Aryoanda ,
and much lower down, those of
Limyra (p. 124).]
From Elmali it is 9 hrs. to Iztanoz
aud thenco 12 hrs. to Adalia; but a
shorter route runs, through an un-
interesting district, direct to Keklije
KaJiveh (10 hrs.), aud thence (see
above) to Yenije Kahveh and
Adalia, or Antalia, Attalia (9 J hrs.),
one of the most interesting towns on
the 8. ooast of A. Minor.
Attalia, the Satalia of the Middle
Ages, was founded by Attalus Phi la
delphus, and came into possession of
the Romans uudor the will of the
last Pergameue king. It wus au iiu
portant sea-port town, ahd from it 88.
Paul and Jlaraabas sailed to Antioch
(Acts xiv. 25). It was afterwards me-
tropolis of Pamphylia. In 1148 it
gave shelter to the harassed troops
of Louis VII., who Bailed thenoe to
Syria. After its capture by Ghiyas-
ed-din L (1203-10), it was retaken by
the king of Cyprus, but was recap-
tured in 1214 by the Seljhks,* who
restored the walls and erected many
fine public buildings. After the fall
of the Seljfiks it formed part of
Kermian, and was later, alternately in
the hands of the Venetians, Osmanlis,
Mongols, and Genoese, until it was
finally conquered (1432) by Murad II.
In 1472 it was ineffectually attacked
by the fleet of Pietro Mooenigo.
During the reign of Mahmfld II.,
the town, then in the hands of the
rebel Dere Bey, Tekke Oghlu, was
besieged and taken (1812) by the Im-
perial troops. For a short time (1832)
it was occupied by the Egyptians.
Adalia is situated at a re-pnteriug
angle in a flat limestono terrace,
which terminates seaward in a cliff
about 120 ft high. A small recess
in the cliff constitutes the inner har-
bour, beyond which there was an
outer harbour formed by u strong wall
with flanking towers, of which there
are several picturesque remains. The
entrance was closed by a chain. A
large spring wells up beneath the
salt water in the harbour, and makes
it almost sweet. The town , which
rises up from the harbour, and spreads
over tho terrace above, lies jmrtly
within, and partly without, the old
walls. There are two approaches
from tho sea ; one by a grand flight of
steps, said to be Venetian, which leads
to a water-gate, the other by a remark-
able cutting in the rock.
The outer wall , which has fine
square flanking towers, and is pro-
tected by a ditch, is of various dates.
From the water-gate it runs 8. to a
fine round tower which appears to be
Pergamenian, and then sweeps round
to the N. side of tho harbour. Be-
tween the tower and the first gate
the wall is built out of the remains of
unoieut buildings. The next section.
Digitized by L^ooQle
houte 42
In whioh is a modern gate, contain*
many ancient tombstones with inscrip-
tion*, and extends to a fine three-
arched gateway erected by Hadrian.
This gate, through which ran the road
to Porgc, is richly ornamented, and on
its architrave there was an inscrip-
tion In large bronze-gilt letters. On
either side is a tower ; one, built by
the impress Julia, is still perfect,
the other was partly rebuilt Dy the
Seljfiks. Close by, the aqueduct,
through which the troops of Mahmftd
II. entered the town, runs beneath
the wall. Beyond Hadrian’s gate the
wall extends, post a fourth entrance,
to tho main \jate, restored by Mahmfid
II., through which most of the traffic
. now enters the town. Outside this
section are a cemetery, the bazdrt, and
an aqueduct with quaint stalactitio
piers. Further W. are the kondk,
and prison, outsido d well-preserved
portion of the wall in which are a
small gate leading to the Top-kh&nch
terrace, and a long Greek inscription.
Beyond the Top-kh&neh gate, the
wall, which here has a deep rock-
hewn ditch, turns N. and descend^
to tho harbour. A rampart, which
rims round the inside of the wall and
forms a pleasant walk, ewes aocess to
the towers, in one of which, near the
bazars, is the ooat of arms of a Vene-
tian or Genoese knight. According
to inscriptions the wall was largely
rebuilt by Ghiyas-ed-din II., and
partly by the Emir of Kermian.
The town is divided into Quarter t
by walls which formerly Separated,
and, to some extent, still separate the
different communities. The Christians
live in the 8. part of the town, and
here are several Greek oh arches, and
a mosque, whioh is, in part, an old
church. The Moslem* occupy tho N.
quarter of the town ; and outside the
walls, near the konaJc, are colonics of
Morootos, whose fathers ldft Greoco
after the revolution, and of liberated
slaves. In the Moslem Quarter are a
Medresse of AJa-ed-din L, a mosque
and medresse of Qhiyas-ed^lin II., and
other mosques, medresses, tombs, and
fountains Of the Boljfik period. The
ornamentation of some of the door->
.—Adalid. ' ; JL23
ways is very beautiful, and one of the
mosques has a fine minaret of red
and blue glazed brick. The tekhe of
the Dancing Dervishes, an octagonal
tomb , with pyramidal roof, and a largo
sarcophagus , deserve notice. At tho
entranoe to the Top-khaneh, is a
fragment of an arch, apparently of the
same date as Hadrian’s Gate; and
here tradition places the palace.
Amongst the people, the Greeks are
the most interesting from their pre-
servation of many ancient habits and
customs, and the Jewish character of
the dress worn by the women. The
town is surround od by magnificent
aardens; and it* exports large quan-
tities of oorn, timber, pine nark,
liquorice root, cotton, valonea. Ac.
There is a British Vice-Consul , and
the Ottoman Bank has a branch.
Adalia is well supplied with water
by aqueducts from the Duden 8u , anot
Catarrhactes , which, after running
underground from Kirk-geuz Kh&n
(p. 153), reappears about 1# hrs. from
the town, ana flows at the bottom of a
deep cleft in the limestono terrace.
A shaft leads down from the terrace
to a chamber immediately above tho
point at which the river flows noise-
lessly from the rock, and near its
mbuth are some shapeless ruins and
rock-hewn tombs. The rivet now
falls from the diff to the sea in a
Aeries of cataracts, but at one time
it apparently ran in a deep ravine W.
of the town.
1} hrs. W. of Adalia, at Papas
Oghlu’s farm, is an Ayasma, or sacred
spring, in which tho faoe of the Virgin
is said to have been seen. It is
believed by Moslems and Christians
to have wonderful healing properties,
and is much visited by both.
Digitized by L^ooQle
124
Route 43. — Tekir-ova — Limyra .
surrounding hills are covered with
the ruins of houses erected by the
Venetians.
ROUTE 43.
AD ALIA — LIMYRA — MYRA“PATARA~
XANTHU8 — MAKRI.
Tekir-ova (Phasdit\ by Sea 6
Dellk-Ush (Olymput% by Se* . 3
Ak-Uah (Qag<u\ by Land
Flneka, vui Limyra ... 6
Dembre (Afyra) ... 9
Audiltlo ( AnUpkeUut) 114
Ruins of Patera . .11
ftunfk (Xantkut) ... 3
Dover (71m) . . . . •
M inarm (Pinara) ... 34
Mmkri ( Tetmesnu ) ... 44
The path from Adalia up the valley
of the Chandir Chat , and over a pass
4400 ft. high to Kasarasi, and thenoo
by Kemer to Pliaselis, is long and
difficult Travellers consequently
find it more convenient to go by sea to
Tekir-ova, Phasdis (5 lira, by boat),
on a headland at toe foot of the
TakhUdi />., anct. Solyma. Phaselis
was a Dorian colony and rose to some
importance as an independent state.
During the Roman period it became
the haunt of pirates, and was taken by
Servilius Isaurious. From this disaster
it never recovered. It had 3 small
ports, of which there are interesting
remains; and it was famous for its
attar of roses, and its Temple of Athene,
in which was preserved the spear of
Achilles. There are the ruius of a
theatre, a stadium, and a temple ; and
many fine sarcophagi of white marble.
Dslik-tash, Olympus (3 hrs. by boat),
derives its name from a natural bridge
of rock which connects the ancient
city with the coast. Tho town was
rich and flourishing when taken by
Servilius, who carried away many of
the statues to graoe his triumph at
Rome. The rutns are Greek in cha-
racter, and include those of a theatre,
several temples, porticoes, and tombs.
Amongst the inscription* is one con-
taining the name, Olympus. The
About | hr. from Delik-tash — first
ovor a small plain, and tlion up a
wooded glen— is the Yanar, famous as
the Chimaera of the ancients. It is a
jet of inflammable gas, which issues
from a crevice in the rook, and burns
unceasingly with a small but steady
light The place was called Hephaes-
tion, and near it was a temple of
Vulcan.
From Delik-tasli a path leads in
3 hrs. to Atrasan, and tneuce to Ak-
tash, Oagae (6 hrs.), near Yenije K.
The ruins here are extensive, but of
no great interest. The road now lies
partly ovor the plain, passing some
distance to the 8. of the sites of Cory-
dulla and Rhodiapolis, and partly
over rising ground. On the way are
clusters of tombs with Lycian inscrip-
tions. One inscription is Graeco-
Phoenician with tho Greek lottors rod
and tho Phoenician blue. In 4) hrs.
tho ruins of
Limyra are reuched. Hero thcro
uro hundreds of sarcophagi and rock-
tombs. One large saroophagus bears
the first Graeco - Lycian inscription
published by Cockerell. Two or the
rock-tombs have facades with Ionic
pilasters. Tho inscriptions are chiefly
Lycian, deeply cut, and in inuuy cases
richly colourod — the letters being
alternately red and blue, or in others
preen, yellow, and rod. The few Greek
inscriptions are merely scratched on
the surface. There are a long wall
with towers, and a pretty theatre.
Near the latter, a little higher up the
hill, is a fine sarcophagus. On the
side of the arched lia is a chariot and
horses, and beneath an egg-moulding
of pure Greek style is a series of bas-
reliefs, very much injured ; to the 8.
a priest holding a sacrificial vase, and
a Youth grasping the horns and muzzle
of an ox ; W. an old man, and naked
youth; £. a sitting figure. In the
valley of the Arycandus, about 1 hr.
from the ruins, there are largo numbers
Digitized by L^ooQle
125
Bouie 48 . — Fineka — Dembre.
of rock-tomb*. The road from Limyra,
after crossing the Aryoandus, and
other streams bj bridges, enters
Fineka (6 hrs.), a small Tillage on a
navigable river 2 m. from the sea.
There are many palms, from which the
{ >laoe takes its name. [From Fineka
t is 5 hrs. by boat to the harbonr of
Kokova , anct Aperlae (temple, odenm
hewn out of the rook, tombs, and
Inscriptions), in front of whioh lies the
long rocky island of Kek-ova. anct.
DolichuU.'] A steep and diffloult
mountain track, from whioh there are
fine views R. of Gape Khelidonia
{Prom. Sacrum), is now followed. It
passes over high ground, 4800 ft,
where there are saroophagi, old walls,
and square Greek towers, and descend-
ing to the valley of the Dembro Qhai ,
anct. Jfyras, crosses the river to
Dembre, Myra (9 hrs.). The hill of
Myra is at the angle between two
valleys, that of the Myras, end that
of the Andruoe. and the old town
stood partly cm the hill, and partly at
its foot It would aptieer, from walls
constructed with the albris of ancient
buildings, that during the late Byzan-
tine period the town extended into the
plain. 8. Paul touohed at Myra
(Acts xxvit 51, or its part, on his way
to Rome ; and at a later date Theo-
dosius IL made it the capital of Lycia.
In 808 it was taken by the troops of
Harfln er-Rashid.
On the W. stands a fine old hmak
carved and (minted. TheOeaire, witli
its enormous oorridors end double
galleries, is one of the most imposing
in A. Minor. It has a broad diazoma
separating the two tiers of seats. The
soene was decorated with oolumns of
the Composite Order, and one with
the adjoining pilaster still supports
the entablature. Borne of the decora-
tive details are elaborate and beautiful
— wild animals, graoefal foliage,
tragic masks, Ac. Above and round
the theatre is a remarkable group of
rook-tombs ; Some entirely detached
from the surrounding rook, and bearing
Lyoian inscription is. Here there are
also good bas-reliefs representing
funereal oeremonies. On the heights
above are the remains of recent fortifi-
cations. On the E. side of the hill,
facing the Dembre Choi, is another
group of rock-tombs. The rook rises
perpendicularly, and the general view
is finer than that of the celebrated
necropolis at Petra. The tombs are
reached by crossing a Turkish ceme-
tery in whioh are remains of Greek
sculpture and inscriptions. The prin-
cipal tomb is approaohed by a long
flight of steps ; a series of statues, life
size, adorns the sides of the faqade.
The inner front of the tomb is so far
set back as to leave a square chamber,
with open framework in front; and
the two side walls are enriched with
good sculpture of domestic groups,
life size, whioh, being protect! from
the weather, retain their original
oolours. Copies of these are in the
British Museum. On the plain to the
8. are several tombs of the Roman
period, one of whioh has the form of a
small temple.
On the road to Andrace (AndrakCy,
the port of Myra, is the Monastery of
8. Nicholas , with an old Byzantine
Church similar in style to that at
Dore-oghosi, but smallor. A little
modern church has been built in tbo
centre of the older one. Good quar-
ters can be obtained in the monastery.
8. Nicholas, who was born at Patara
in the 8id cent, became bishop of
Mvra, and was buried in the church.
His relics are said to have been re-
moved to Bari in 1087. Beyond the
monastery is the bead of the Android
Su , where are the remains of an old
bath. On the banks are many sarco-
phagi; and on the N. side of the
entrance is a granary \ erected, aooord-
ing to an inscription, by Hadrian,
aj>. 119. A bar has now formed
across the mouth of the river. It was
here that the fleet of Brutus and
Lentulus anchored during the cam-
paign against Lycia. and that 8. Paul
was put on board a ship of Alexandria.
1} hrs. from the monastery are the
rains of Sura (saroophagi and Lycian
inscriptions).
Digitized
>gle
126
Route 43 . — Kamaba — Patarc^.
[4-bout 3} lira., nearly due W. of
Myra, is Geul-bashi, Trysa, where is
the heroon from which the Auatrian
Government obtained the remarkable
reliefs now in the Vienna Museum.
Geul-bashi has an altitude of 2475 ft.,
and can be reached by rough mountain
paths from Myra or Kek-ova. There
ore ruins of the acropolis and of the
old town. The heroon stands on the
rocky ridge of the acropolis, and con-
sists of a peribolus wall 60 ft. by 72 ft,
within which rises the tomb, hewn
out of the living rook. The relief)?
which decorated the peribolus wall
are amongst the most interesting and
beautiful remains of pure Greek art.]
Following the gorge of the Dembre
Chai for 6 hrs. the traveller reaches
Dero-aghasi, where there is a side
valley and a conical hill rising steeply
from the river. The hill is crowned
by the walls of an ?ld Christian town,
and at the mouth of the vidloy is a
large and well preserved Byzantine
Church , apparently of the 8th century.
It lias a narthex, an exo-narthex, and
a dome oyer the transept. To the rt.
and 1. are circular buildings— the
baptistery and the sacristy. In the
vicinity are Lyoian tombs. Here the
Myrus makes a sharp bend, and the'
road runs S. up the broad valley to
Kassaba (7 hrs.), a modem village
surrounded by trees and gardens.
The ascent of the valley is oontinued
for 2} hrs., through magnificent
mountain scenery, to Bunar-bashi %
whence it is an hour's climb through
forest to the ruins of PheUu «, now
Ftto. There are massive terrace walls,
Cyclopean masonry, monolithio tombs,
and Lyoian sarcophagi. The latter
part of tlio descent to
Andifllo, AntipheUui (4} hrs.), is by
a good road. Portions of the walls
of the old town remain ; the theatre
is small, and its proscenium has dis-
appeared ; the agora was on a terrace
at the foot of the acropolis hill ; on
one of the lower terraces is a circular
church. Many of the tombs are
remarkable; one of them, isolated
from the surrounding rook like the
tombs at Amasia (d. 89), is pure
Dorio. A large number of thp sarco-
phagi are Homan imitations of those
of Lycia with their peculiar arched
lids. TJiere are many Grqeoo-Lyciau
and Homan inscriptions. In front of
Andifllo is the island of Castelortio
(Seot. IV.)p yrith which there is con-'
slant traffic. A steep ascent leads to
Sftrst (3} hrs.), where there are rock-
tombs, sarcophagi, and old walls ; and
the route then lies through grand
mountain scenery to Batarqian Yaila
(3} hrs.), and Furnat, about .2 hra.
from the ruins of
Patara (4 hrs.), whioh lie on the
sea-shore a little E. of the mouth of
the Xanthus. Patara was a flourish-
ing commercial city of Lycia, and
was famous for its temple and oracle
of Apollo. Ptolemy Philadelphus
enlarged the city and gavo it t)io
name of Arsiuoe, but thte pbvor sup-
planted the ancient namo. The mils
can easily bo traced, fts well as the
situation of a castle that commanded
the harbour, and of several of the.
flanking towers. Within the wal|s
are the remains of temples, altars,:
pedestals, Ac. A large triumphal
arch , with three gates, bears the
inscription, “Patara, the metropolis
of the Lycian nation." The thermae,
according to an inscription, were built
by Vespasian. The theatre, which is
exoavated in the N. side of a small
hill, is 2G5 ft. iu diameter. It has a
dinzoma dividing the tiers of soats,
and a broader (Jiazoma between tho
lower seat of ' the cavea and the
orchestra. The proscenium with the
adjoining rooms is very complote.
An inscription shows that it was built
by Qu. Volins Titionus und dedicated
by his daughter Volia Proolaf a.d. 145).
A small ruined temple stands on the
side of the same lull, and close by,
but nearer the summit, is a deep
circular pit with a flight of steps
leading to the bottom, conjoctured by
Beaufort to be the seat of the oracle.
Outside the walls are large numbers
of sarcophagi, many of whioh bear
inscriptions. In a wood E. of the city
Digitized by
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Route 48 . — Xanthus
127
ia a rock-tomb , with Greek inscription,
which appears to have been occupied
by early Christians. One of the most
remarkable remains is the aqueduct,
which at one point takes the form of
an inverted stone syphon. The situ-
ation of the harbour is. clear, but it is
now a swamp, and choked up with
sand and busncs. From Patara there
is a road oVor the plain, partly skirting
a large swamp to Gunik (3 hrs.),
wlibnco it is 2 m. to tho ruins of
Xanihue, which lie on the E. bank
of the Eshen Chat ', and Xanthu * . The
city was one of the greatest and most
celebrated in Lvcia. In the reign of
Cyrus It was taken by a Persian army
under Harpagus. Herodotus relates
that the Xanthiahs set fire to tho
acropolis, in which they had placed
their wives, children, and property j
ahd then, sallying out, perished sword
in hand. During the oivil war that
followed the murder of Csosar, Brutus
took it by storm, and on this occasion
also the people preferred death to
submission. The principal buildings
wOro tho temples of Sorjicdon and of
the Lycian Apollo. The river is
mentioned by Homer.
One of the most conspicuous monu-
ments is a square $tde, about 16 fL
high, which stands on the E. slope
of the rocky heights above the city.
The white Parian marble slabs, let
into the upper part, are visible from
the sea, shining like a star against the
deep blue sky. Immediately below
and E. of this is the base of the cele-
brated Paiafa tomb, now in the
British Museum. When perfect it
formed a beautiful feature in the land-
cape, breaking tho monotony of the
aspect os the eye wandered along the
“Lyciao dumeta," and contrasting
with the view looking to the river, the
calm sea, and the sacred hill of
Patara. Bohind the rocky heights
to tho N., in a thicket of oak, lies tho
sarcophagus of the “ Chimaera tomb/'
of which the lid is in the British
Museum. On this side there are
many Lyoian rock* tombs. several still
very perfect Below the site of the
Paiafa tomb are traces of polygonal
masonry, and a gateway with enor-
mous sideposts. Near this stood the
“ Lion tomb, 9 * now in the British Mu-
seum.
The principal path, leading up in
the direction we nave followed, passes
a well-built wall, with oolumns and
pedestals, whioh may have been the
Barpedonium. Above this, at the foot
of tne heights, 8. side, is a handsome
sarcophagus with a Lyoian inecription.
On the top of the hoights are mios
of Chrittian buildings, apparently a
monastery, which are interesting from
their amngement, the very hard
stucco on the walls, and the colouring.
The apse of the Church remains,
and at the W. end is a large square
court with a well in the centre.
The cloister was paved with small
rod tiles. Below, and to the E.
of the Sarpedonium, was another
Church.
On the plain is a city gatneay ,
erected, according to an inscription,
in the reign of Vespasian. The me-
topes were ornamented with busts of
Diana, whioh are now in the British
Museum. B. of this gateway is an
earlier one bearing traces of an inte-
resting Greek Inscription. Above,
and immediately N. of the gateway,
rises a cliff on which is the base of the
Ionic monument now in the British
Museum. This monument, from its
lofty position over the plain, must have
commanded the admiration of every
approaching traveller. From the
gateway a road led direct to the
theatre which faced N. The prosce-
nium has disappeared, but the seats
and some separate stone chairs are
very perfect of the sito of th£
ptoscenium ore a large Lycian monu-
ment representing a wooden building ;
and a broken steto, which is closely
covered on four sides with Lycian
charaotere; the inscription on one
side begins with a line from Simo-
nides. On the W. side of the theatre,
the curve of the Boats was broken so
as not to disturb two tombs. One of
these is the famous M Harpy tomb ” of
which th^ frieze, representing the
harpies carrying off the daughters of
King Panrinrns, is now in the British
Digitized by L^ooQle
128
Route 43 . — Duver — Minara .
Museum. The other is a sarcophagus, mounted on Pegasus. Near the tomb
with arched lid, on a large square is a large Lyoian inscription. On the
pedestal Beyond these monuments plain is a pedestal with a represen ta-
W. is the brink of a oliff overhanging tion of the siege of Tlos. The theatre
the river; and from this spot there was large and elaborately finished,
is a beautiful view looking up the and the mouldings of the seats are
stream to the snowy heights of the supported by lion’s paws. Near the
coast range. The walls of the aero- theatre are remains of large Roman
polu are of various dates. From the buildings. From Duver the road, at
8. wall some of the finest early Lycian first, lies down the valley and then,
sculptures in the British Museum, 'crossing the Xanthus, ascends the
which had been used in its con- hills on the rt. bank to
struction, were obtained. On the E.
side of the acropolis a Roman house
was discovered, with a fine mosaic of
Leda and the swan, in colours. Some
of the polygonal masonry on this
side is very fine. Across the river
are remains of an old Turkish
fort The fig and pomegranate grow
well, and the dense vegetation in
some ports of the valley is very
beautiml
[Near the village of Doduraa , about
3| nra. W. from Gunik, are the small
but interesting and well-preserved
ruins of Sidyma. They OQnsist of
temples, a theatre, an agora, tombs,
&o. ; and are situated on a spur of
Mt Oragus, at an alt of about
2500 ft]
From Xanthus the road lies up the
picturesque valley of the same name,
and, 4 m. N. of the ruins, passes a
defensive wall that stretches across
Xinara (3) hrs.), which preserves,
almost unchanged, the name of Pinara 9
one of the largest oities of Lycia, in
which the Lycian hero Pandoras was
worshipped. The ruitu, which were
discovered by Sir 0. Fellows, are at
the foot of Anticragus, and are about
1 m. from the village. The acropolis
hill — a singular round rocky cliff (the
pinara of the Lycians) — rises in the
midst of the ancient city, and is per-
forated with oountless tombs. The
theatre is very perfect, and its sub-
structure of Cyclopean masonry is
interesting. Some of the tombs are
richly decorated with sculpture and
have Lycian or Greek inscription*.
From Minara a rough rocky road runs
over a pass, 4000 ft, between the
lofty Buba D., anct Antierague (6800
ft), and the Mendus D. (5150 ft.) to
Xakri, Telmemu (4| hrs ), Rte.
38.
the valley.
Duver (6 hrs.\ near the fine ruins
of Tlo $ , one of tne six cities forming
the Lycian confederacy. The town
was situated on a spur of Ma»$ieytu8 9
and it is more than an hour’s climb to
the aeropolis, whence there is a grand
view of the surrounding mountains
and of the Xanthus valley as far as
the sea. The lofty, precipitous rook
of the acropolis is honeycombed with
tombs of various dates, some like those
at Telmessus, others with Greek in-
scriptions, one of which mentions the
senate and people of Tlos. One tomb
with a curious portico is ornamented
with a bas-relief of Bellerophon
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 44 . — Knla — Ushak .
129
ROUTE 44.
SMYRNA— USHAK— AF|0m KARA*
HI88AR — KONIA.
HR*.
AU-#hehr (bj IUI1).
KuU (OpnWon) ... . 5
Ushak (Temenothyrae) ' .14
Ahal Keul (Ahmonia). . 8
Islam Keul (Asramon Jpora) S
Dungioh 8
AflAra Kara-hlaear (Aeroenia) T
Obiil (fonts) .... 8
Ak-sbeur (PhOovuHum) * 8
Ilghln (Tfriaeum) .8
Kadln Kbin (SinctXandus) . 4
Y organ Ladik ( Laodicea Combusta ) 6
Koala (Zconitm) * • 8
Smyrna to Ala-shehr by rail (Bte.
80). From Ala-shehr the road crosses
the Valley of the Cogamut ; reaches the
foot of the hills in 2 hrs. ; then asoends
rapidly for 2 hre., during which there
are grand views down the Valley of
the llermut and of the Box Dagh on
the opposite side ; and in another hour
reaches Kula. [A road, once very
important, leaves the railway at
Salikli, crosses the valley to Darascdi
at the foot of the hills, and, after a
long ascent to an old guard-house,
passes over the plateau to Kula (10)
Knla (5 hrs.), alt. 2260 ft. (Intcrip*
tiont ), mentioned by this name in
late Byzantine times, is probablv
the Byzantine fortress ( Kaleh ) Optt-
hion. It is the ohief city of the
ancient Katakekaumene , and is famous
for its manufacture of rugs, its fine
air and water, and the beauty of
its women. The town is situated
in a volcanic district not unlike parts
of oentral France, and near it is a'
large volcanic cone, with water in the
orator, to which the Greek residents
go in procession every January. The
nooses of Kula are of black and red
stone; and the black dogs harmonise
well with the ruddy black oolour of
the surrounding couutry. Ico and
[Turkey.]
snow are preserved for summer use
by oovering them with pumice stone.
TTie intenpiicm have been brought
from various ancient cities, Maeonia,
Ac., and especially from Sandal (anot.
Satala ), one hr. N.W. of Kula, the
seat of a cultus of a goddess Artemis*
Anaitis-Leto, which appean to have
been the ohief religion of the Katake-
kaumene.
[A road runs from Kula to Adala
on the Hermus, 8 hrs. ; and thenoe
across the valley in 9 hrs. to Sardis.]
The road now dcsoends over un-
dulating ground to the Hermus (2)
hrs.), and, crossing to the right bank
by a ford, near a spot where the
softer rook underneath the basalt is
weathered into quaint columnar
shapes which rise tier above tier to
a height of 600 ft, enters a gorge
(boghax). Close by are the ruins of a
Roman bridge and Davala (anct
Tabala). The river is again crossed
by a bridge (3 hrs.) partly of Roman
construction ; and the road then
crosses a high spur (from the top of
which there is a good view over the
volcanio district round Kula), to Yeni-
thehr , a small will. (2 hrs.), with two
deserted mosques. Thenoe it follows
the valley to Kureh (2) hrs.), and
afterwards crosses to Ushak on a
tributary of the Maeander.
Ushak (4 hrs.), alt 8160 ft. (J«i-
seription$) % probably the anct Terns-
nothyrae, has several mosques with
metal-tipped minarets, and is prettily
situated in a rich oountry which,
with its red earth, green vegetation,
fields, and hedges, is not unlike parts
of Devonshire. It is in the oentre of
the valonea district, and large quanti-
ties of barlev, wheat, and opium are
grown in the vicinity. But it is
chiefly famous as the head-quarters
of the manufacture of the heavypile
carpets, Khali, known to us as “ Tur-
key carpets,” and in France as M tapis
de Smyine.*
There are about 2000 looms, and the
industrv employs some 8500 women
and girls, ana 500 men. The women,
K
Digitized by
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130
Route 44 . — Tahnak.
who are chiefly Moslems, weave the
carpets; the men wash and dye tho
wool, which is purchased from the
nomad tribes in the interior. The
carpets are made in private houses,
and the process is simple and easy.
A wooden cylinder, over which the
web is passed, is fixed in the upper
part of a large frame, whilst in the
lower part is another wooden cylinder
which receives the carpet as it is
woven. The workers, from one to six
or seven, according to the size of the
carpet, are seated in a row in front of
the frame with the dyed wools, spun
into yarns, hanging above them. To
form the design each woman breaks
off a couple of inches of yam and
knots it on to one of the threads of
the web; tho wool is then combed
out, cut level with large shears, and
beaten down with a comb-shaped
hammer. The work is done with
great precision and dexterity, and
each woman weaves about 10 inches
of a carpet 2 ft. wide in a day. The
foundation of the best carpets is of
inforior wool, but it is often made
from the hemp and flax of old bags.
The colours, originally, were, for the
most part, produced from madder
root (rubia tinctorum), which gives
the flue old “ Turkey red ” ; in-
digo, brought from England or
India; and the seeds of Rhamnus
aiatemus , which give the yellows.
Cochineal was brought into use in
1850 ; and at a later date the
adoption of aniline dyes introduced
brilliant, startling colours, with a
falling off in quality and solidity.
The great demand for Turkey carpets
has had the effect of largely replacing
tho inimitable free Turkish designs
by stiff modern patterns. Carpets of
any size are now made to order, and
the patterns are frequently supplied
from France.
In buying carpets care should be
taken to seleot those in which the
old vegetable dyes have been used for
dying the wool, in preference to those
dyed with the more fugitive aniline
oolours. The smaller rugs, or “ prayer
carpets,'’ sqjadeh ; the “ cushion car-
pets," Yafsdih-yuzu ; and the “ corner
carpets," Keushe-khaliH , are made
principally at Giirdiz (p. 85). The
well -Known oblong carpets, KUim t
sometimes called Karamanian, are
often made by Greek women; but
the best are produced in the tents of
the nomad Yuruks and Turkomans.
Even in these the dearness of tho
best dyo-stufis has led to the exten-
sive use of aniline dyes, and it is
becoming increasingly difficult to
obtain really good carpets.
The Inscriptions are on stones built
into the principal mosque, the foun-
tain, several houses, and in the Ar-
menian Cemetery. At Qiaour-curen,
2 hrs. E.N.E. of llshak, are the ruins
of Trajanopolis-Grimenothyrae, with
rock-tombs in tho hills to the N.
[Much of the trade from Usbak to
Smyrna is carried direct to Ala-shehr.
There are two routes: (1) in 21 hrs. by
Takmak, a small vill., which is half
way. The road is ruggod and un-
interesting; 7 to 8 hrs. from Ushak
aro extensive mins, but with no
striking features, on tho N. side of
the rood. Takmak is G hrs. from
Eula, and the road (vifc Ak-ta$h)
traverses a dreary and rough country.
Soon after leaving Takmak the road
to Ala-shelir begins a long steep
winding descent, which lasts several
hours, to the Cogamus valley. (2) The
other route, 22 hrs., by Ineh, is much
easier. The road leaves Qeubek
(G hrs.) ( Inscr .) to the 1., and reaches
Ineh (Inscr.; anct. Nats) in 7 hrs.
Thence it traverses a rather diffi-
cult country to Yuruk Kent, 7 lire.
Two hours further on is a hihveh , at
the summit of a very steep descent to
a little stream, in a glen which opens
on the Cogamus valley at another
hihveh, 4 hrs. Hence 4 hrs. across
the plain to Ala-shehr.
2 hrs. 8. from Geubek and from
Ineh is Suleimanli, with the in-
teresting ruins of Dlaundus (acrojmlis,
aqueduct, Ac.), on the river Wp-
pourius , a tributary of the Banat
Chat (Senarus). The rivers in the
southern Dart of the great plain, called
Banat Ova , which stretches from
Murad Hugh to Chal Pagh, and from
Digitized by
Google
181
Boute 44 . — Afi&m Kara-hissar.
Yuruk Keui to Sivasli, run in very
deep canons, which become deeper and
deeper as one goes 8., till at last the
river Maeandor, south of Geuneh,
flows through a wonderful and most
picturesque gorge, 1000 to *2000 ft.
deep, to tho Lyons valley. A great
deal of tho Ushak trade is now carried
by a good carriage-road to Chivrtl.'J
From Ushak the road runs along
the foot of tho Murad D. (alt. 7000
ft), through a rich undulating
country dotted with villages, and fine
groves of valonea oak to Ahat Keui,
Aenumia (6 hrs.). There are here the
remains of two theatres, two temples,
an acropolis, &o. Hence in 2 hrs. to
Isl&m Keui, Keramon Agora {Liter.),
traversed by Xenophon during the
Anabasis, it is a miserable village,
with one or two shops, and a small
wretched kh&n. It is unhealthy in
summer. All the villages as far as
Aghar-hittar to the E. are full of an-
cient fragments.
[An araba-road leads due 8. from
IslIL m K. to Chivril, tho terminus of
a branch of the Ottnnmu Kail way
(10 lire.). Tho road keeps up on the
hills E. of tho Banaz Chai, and is
rather difficult to find for the first
4 hrs. Then it reaches a large
plateau, entirely covered by a forest of
valonea oak, and in 2 hrs. more reaches
Bivasli, Sebagfe. Phrygiae , a very rich
village, with two mosques and fino
odat. It is full of ancient remains,
the most notable being a long in-
scription, built into a fountain in the
main street, ond recording tho for-
mation of a “ Oerusia n in the Roman
period. The road continues over tho
plateau, but tho forest ceases 2 hrs.
Deyond Sivasli, and at 3 lire, the crest
of the ridge is reached and the hhekli
plain seen below. Thence a descent
of 1 hr. brings the traveller to Chivril
(p. 105), where there is now a consider-
able bazftr, and a fine kh&n, built for
the Ushak traffic.]
From Isl&m K. the road runs up
a well watered and prettily Wooded
valley to Trh Bunar , a cold healing
spring (1 hr.) ; it then ascends to the
water-parting between the Maeander
and Rangarius, and continues over un-
dulating ground to Dusagaeh (8 hrs.),
a pretty, hospitable village, with a few
Byzantine remains, which lies well
out on tho plateau of A. Minor.
Tho great mountain upon tho left is
the finrad Dagh, the ancient Aft.
Dindymut , famous for the worship
of Cybele. Just beyond KeuprUu
(4 hrs.) the road crosses a low range
and descends by Nar into the plam
of Afiftm Kara-hissar; in the pass
it is very rough, but elsewhere good.
Below Nar it strikes into the post-
road from Kutaya, which may be
followed to the town post some strik-
ing rock scenery ; or a short cut may
bo made in summer across the marsh,
passing rt. of Chorja , to a point } hr.
from
Aflftm Kara-hissar (8 hrs., alt 3500
ft.), whose extraordinary citadel, rising
800 ft. out of the plain, was the Byzan-
tine fortress of Acroenus. Afifim Kara-
hissar is now a nlaoo of great import-
ance on tho road from Constantinople
to IConia ; tho batdr is one of tho
largest and best supplied in Anatolia;
there are several khan s, but none are
good. The largo Armenian quarter is
the best built and cleanest part of the
town. To get a view of tho cha-
racteristic town, of the strange rock
formation near it, of the marshes, aud
tho distant Phrygian mountains, the
cihidrl should f>o ascomlcd. On its
summit are mediaeval Turkish fortifi-
cations ; the approach is by a stairw ay
cut in the rock. Acroenus is first
mentioned as a fortress in a.p. 740,
when the Arabs, under Sid cl-Battal
el-Ghazi (p. 144), wore defeated near
it. The fortress passed into the hands
of the 8eliftks at the end of the 12th
century. There is a large and wealthy
Armenian population, descended, ac-
cording to tradition, from a colony
transplanted from Persia by one of tho
Seliftk Sultans. The Armenians have
a church, in which are several Greek
inscription *, and schools in which
more than GOO boys and girls are edu-
cated. The A. cemetery also contains
k 2
Digitized by L^ooQle
132
Route 44 . — Cfhai — Alcshehr.
inscriptions. There are numerous
Mosques, but uninteresting, a Tekke
of Mevlevi , “Dancing” Dervishes, and
several Moslem schools. A. Kara-
hissar is the centre of the opium
(Afium) district, and has a large trade
in opium, wool, yellow berries, bees-
wax, cereals, Ac. It was formerly the
gathering point for caravans from the
interior to Smyrna ; but the opening
of the railway to Dineir has led to a
diversion of the traffic to that place by
way of Chai, — another instance of tho
tendency of trade to resume its old
course. If the Ry. is further extended
to Konia a branch line to A. Kara-
hisssr is projectod. From A. Kara-
hissar tho post-rood runs over the
plain to Chai, passing, 1} hr. after
starting, the site of Prymnessus at
Seulun.
[An alternative route is by Boliva-
din, Polybotus (9 lire.), where Alexius
Comnenus defeated the Sclj&k, Saisan,
in 1115. Here there is a small boz&r
and kliftn, but nothing of interest
Thence to Cliai (2J lire.), partly by a
raised causeway across the marshes at
the N.AV. end of the Eber Geul.]
Chai (9 hrfl.) is a small well-watered
town with a few shops and a good
kh&u (Armenian). It lies near, but
lower dowp than, the site of Ipsus,
famous i'oi the great battle b.o. 301,
in which Seleucus I. and Lysimaclius
defeated Antigonus the One-eyed, and
his son Demetrius. The former pair
caroe respectively from Cappadocia
and northern Phrygia, and, forming a
junction, met at the head of the
Paroreus Valley their opponents, who
hod marched up from Synnada. The
battle must have been fought in the
plain near Chai, and possibly the
tumuli, seen there now, commemorate
it. Near this place was Caystri
Pedium , where Xenophon relates
that the army of Cyrus the Younger
halted for 5 days in b.o. 401, and muti-
nied to gain an increase of pay. From
Kara-hhsar to Konia the traveller
follows the march of this famous ex-
pedition. The post -road continues
along the valley, having the Sultan
Dagh t rt., and the Emir Dagh t L For
some distance the track in use avoids
the macadamised rood. Ishakli
( Kahvehs ), half-way, stands on the site
of Julia , which in Christian times sup-
planted Ipsus ; two or three inscrip-
tion*, ifco., remain. No other villages
are actually on the road, but Yasnat)
(Xenophon’s Fount of Midas ) is close
to it 1., 2) lire, from
Ak-shehr (9 hrs.), a large town
at the foot of the mountains. The
bazftr (Thursday) is not very good ;
nor are tho kh&ns. The Arme-
nian one is the best. It is sur-
rounded by pleasant gardens, |but the
streets are narrow and dirty, and en-
cumbered with ruined mosques and
houses. At a short distance from the
western entrance of tho town is the
sepulchre of Nureddin Khoja, a
Turkish saint, whose tomb is the
object of Mussulman pilgrimage. It
is a stone monument of the usual
form, surrounded by an open colon-
nude Hiipi>orting a roof ; tho columns
have lieen tuken from some ancient
Greek building. The buryiug-ground
is full of remains of Greek architec-
ture converted into Turkish tomb-
stones. These are relics of Philo-
melium, a Pcrgamenian foundation on
this spot. The place was visited by
Cicero when proconsul of Cilicia, and
to the Philomelians the inhabitants
of Smyrna wrote the letter which
describes the martyrdom of Polycarp.
Later it was one of the great cities
ol Hamid. Tho lake of Ak-shehr,
sometimes called that of the 14 Forty
Martyrs” is 6 m. from the town.
[Ak-sliehr to Konia , by ChigiL — A
direct road, practicable in great part
of the distance for wheels, goes room
Ak-shehr to Konia (22 hrs.), pass-
ing by Aghait , 2$ lire, (mentioned as
A gait by Ryzontiuo historians in the
twelfth century), Egri-geuz, 3 lire, (the
city named Thymbrion, and after-
wards Hadrianopolis, was situated
near), Doghan-hissar , 6 hrs., Bus , 7}
hre., ChigiL, 11 hre. (Kabala, with in-
scriptions), Dervent Keui t 13 lira., then
over a pass and down a stream which
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133
Route 44 . — Torgan Ladik — Konia.
flows to the Konia plain. The road
from Yalovach, Kara-agach, and Kizil-
enren, crosses the stream by a bridge,
and joins this road at Kavaklu, about
5 hrs. from Konia.]
Passing Tepe Kcui (2 lira) and
Arkhut Khdn (5 hrs., Inter . ), where
are two Kahvebs, Ilghin is reached
in 9 hrs. from Ak-shehr. Here
are a wretched baz&r, a fine
mosqne, and one of the largest
kh&nt in Turkey. It retains a
fow traces of tho anciont Tyriaeum,
where Cyrus reviewed his troops.
[A bridle-road runs from Ilghin direct
to Konia in 16 hrs., vi& Otmanjik
(4$ hrs.) and Kunderat (6 lira), at
both of which are inscriptions. 20
min. beyond the latter, 1. of road, is
a graveyard containing many inscrip-
tions, one in the unknown Phrygian
dialect. The road now ascenas a
high pass, and after descending the
course of a stream for 1} hrs., leaves
it and winds over the hills L to
Tat Keui (7 hrs. from Kunderaz). A
guide is essential for tho latter part
of the road. Thenco vifc Silleh to
Konia (8 hrs)J We cross the Khoja
Chai (anct. Karmeius) by a bridge,
and reach Xadin Khin, Sincthandus
(4 hrsA 2 kh&ns. The baz&r is miser-
able ( Inter .). Left of the road, 2) hrs.
from Ilghin, a M Hittito ” inscription
is lying on a part of the rampart of a
fortified camp.
Yorgan Ladik (6 hrs.) (Inter.), a
large plaoe, famous for its manufac-
ture of carpets. Here are to be seen
many marbles, altars, columns friezes,
cornices, 4c., the remains of taodicca
Combusta (KaraxcKaupirri), anciently
the most considerable city in this part
of the country. At less than an hour’s
distanoe from the town, on the way to
Konia, are a still greater number of
remains of tho samo kind. Boon
after, tho road ascends a ridge,
whenoe is a view of Konia and the
lake which oocupies the centre of the
plain. This lake only exists during
the winter inundations. E. are the
lofty summits of Hnsssn D. At
tho S.E. extremity of the plain is a
remarkable isolated mountain, called
Kara D. (Black Mountain X about
60 m. distant ; and beyond it, are seen
the summits of the Karaman range,
at the distanoe of 90 m.
Konia, Iconium (9 hrs.), alt 8320
ft., is the capital or a ViUyct. The
circumference of the walls is between
2 and 8 m., beyond which are suburbs
not much less populous than the town
itself. The warn, onoe strong and
lofty, and flanked by square massive
towers, which at the gates wore built
close together, are of the time of the
Beljflk Sultans, who seem to have
taken considerable pains to oxhibit
tho Greek inscriptions and the re-
mains of architecture and sculpture
belonging to the ancient Iconium,
which they made use of in building
their walls. The latter are now ruin-
ous ; in many places tho mud core bears
faithful impressions of ancient in-
scriptions and reliefs, whioh had been
inserted face inwards. The visible
remains, however, of Greek or Roman
Iconinm are few and trivial. The
palace of the Sdj&k Buttons of R4m
is on a low but conspicuous mound.
Its ruins, and a mosque built among
them, contain some few remains of
Roman columns and massive and
elegant Seljflk architecture. One gate
of inlaid marbles, and another near
it of white marble, are fine speci-
mens of the latter style. Near the
palace are the mosque and tomb of
Ala-ed-dln with some good tiles.
Within and around the city are the
ruins of numerous Seljflk mosques,
tombs, and im&rets; they show un-
mistakable signs of Persian influ-
ence, especially in the use that has
been made of representations of
animals, in some cases, for the decora-
tive details ; and of blue tiles in the
minarets.
No visitor to Konia should miss
seeing the Tekko of the Blovlevl
Dervishes and the great TUrbe,
whioh contains the tomb of Hazret
Meviana, founder of the Order, and of
his Buooessors. The beautiful court-
yard, the carpets and hanging lamps
in the interior, and the tombs them-
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134
Route 45. — The Phrygian Monuments .
wives, are well worth seeing. No
difficulty is made about Europeans
entering, provided they take off their
boots. The bazars are not very good,
and the houses have little to recom-
mend them to notice, but thu now
Konak, built by Said Pasha in 1887,
is one of the finest in Turkey. The
Qreek community lives at Silleh (2
lira N.). At its head is a metro-
politan, but the Greek language has
only recently been used in the church
service. Prayers are printed in
Turkish. The Greeks and Arme-
nians have each a church in the
city. The gardens round Konia,
especially about Meram, abound in
fruit-trees, and the country supplies
grain and flax in abundance. Car-
pets ore manufactured, and blue and
yellow leather prepared hero. Good
embroideries may also bo procured.
Oottou, wool and hides aro sent to tho
nearest station on tho Smyrna Rail-
way by arahat and camels.
Iconium is a very old city, and,
aocording to one myth, was the first
place to emerge after tho Delugo. It
is spoken of by Xenophon as a town
of Phrygia, near the eastern border of
that province. In Roman times it
was the capital of Lycaonia. Its
chief importance lay in its central
position, being on one of the great
lines of communication between Ephe-
sus and the western coast on tho one
side and Tarsus on the other. Several
leading Roman roods intersected each
other at this point. Iconiutn was
therefore a well -chosen place for
apostolio missionary operations. S.
Paul firet visited it in company with
Barnabas, coming from Antioch of
Pisidia (Acts xiv. 1). His preaching
was successful; but tho enmity of tho
Jews forced him to leavo tho city.
He returned again to Iconium (xiv.
21). He came again to it on his
second great missionary journey, and
here he seems to have attuched to him
his cherished disciple Timothy (Acts
xvL 2). Iconium wus the scene of
tho curious apocryphal legend of 8.
Theda. The city became a Roman
colony in the reign of Hadrian. In
1099 the Selj&k Sultans of Rum made
it their residence, and rebuilt and
embellished tho city. It was subse-
quently taken by assault by Frederio
Barbarpssa, on whose death the Sul-
tans re-entered their capital, where
they reigned in splendour till tho
irruption of Jenghiz KMn broke the
power of the SeljClks. On the death
of the last Sultan (1307) it passed into
the hands of the Emir of Karamania,
and finally, after a long struggle, was
added to the Osmanli Empiro.
ROUTE 45.
SMYRNA TO GON8TANTINOPLE, BY
THE PHRYGIAN MONUMENTS.
A visit to tho Phrygian monuments
is one of the most interesting and de-
lightful tours that can be made in
A. Minor during the summer months.
The pine forests and tho keen invigo-
rating atmosphere of the hills, in
widen the monuments are situated,
make the district a perfect sanatorium;
while tho artistic and antiquarian in-
terest is very grout, ami an observant
traveller may probably make impor-
tant discoveries.
The monuments may be approached
from Smyrna by 3 routes. The direct
roads are given here ; but it is expe-
dient in each cose to pass through
Afium Kara-hissar to cull on the
Mutcssarif, and mako arrangements
with tho Government officials. If this
be not done, the traveller’s presence
will soon be reported at headquarters,
and zaptiehs will be sent out to bring
him to Kara-hissar.
(1.) By Ala-shehr to Bey K. (Rail,
1 day; horseback, 39 hrs.). By rail
to Ala-shehr (Rte. 30) ; and thence by
Rte. 44 to Isl&m K. (27 hrs.). From
this poiut thu roud to A. Kara-hissar
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135
Route 45 .— The Phrygian Monuments .
(p. 131) is followed for 8 hrs. to the distance. Here the road to the monu-
water-parting between the Maeander ments tarns off to the l. f through
(j Eammam Bu ) and the Tembrogias Tunlu-bunar , and Arslanlar (4) hrs.),
( Pursak Su\ where there is a high (where the road to Abia, anot Appia ,
tumulus, crowned by a half-ruined diverges to the 1.) to OhcU K., and
Turbe, which is visible from a great thence through a hilly, picturesque
district to Besh-karish-euyuk ( 3) lira.),
where the water of the hill region
finds its way to the open plain of
Altin-tash. Near the village, at the
mouth of the glen, is a large mound.
Henoe the traveller can make a dAtour
of 1} hrs. to Altin-tash (p. 58), or go
straight across the valloy to Bey K.
(4 hrs.1 where the region of the monu-
ments begins. One milo 8. of Bey K.,
at the entrance to the glen is a tumu-
lus, in which a large block of lime-
stone, with a 1 * Hittite” inscription, dis-
covered aud copied in 1884, is buried.
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136
Route 46 . — The Phrygian Monument*.
(2.) By ChivrU to Bey K. (Bail, 1
day; horseback, 22 hrs.). By rail
to Ghivril (Etc. 34) ; thehce, after
visiting the remains of Eumeneia
(p. 106), follow the araba-road (p. 131),
through Sivasli (Sebaste) to Islftm K.
(10 hrs.); and thence by (1) to Bey
K. (12 hrs.).
(3.) By Dineir to Bey K. (Bail, 1
day ; horseback, 24 hrs.). By rail to
Dineir (Bte. 34) ; thence by Bte. 46
to Aflfim Kara-hissar (18 lira.), and
thence by Bte. 23 to Bey K. (6 hrs.).
The Phrygian monuments are in
two groups, one between Ayaz fn and
Liyen, the other about 4 hrs. N.N.W.
in the vicinity of Kumbet The first
group is connected with the ancient
Metropolis, “City of the Northern
Qoddeas ” ; the other with a city which
had disappeared from memory even in
the Bomun times, being replaced by
Merus, a village that became iii Byzan-
tine times a bishopric.
Travellers wishing to visit all the
monuments are recommended to take
the following route from A. Kara-his-
sar to Eski-shehr : — Kazli-geul Ham-
min (by Bte. 23, 4 hrs.) ; Ayaz fn (2
hrs. ; from this place it is 4 hrs. by the
direct road to Bakshish, or Yapul-
dak); Demirli(2 hrs.); Bey E. (1 hr.);
Liyen (1 hr.); Gherkes K. (2 hrs.);
Bakshish(2hrs.); Yapuldak(l£ hrs.);
Kumbet (It hrs.); Midus-monuinout
(l{hrs.); Bardakchi (3 hrs.); Seidi
Ghazi (4 hrs.) ; Eski-shehr (8 hrs.).
An alternative route may be followed
from A. Kara-hissar by Docimium
and the famous quarries to Ayaz fn.
(tee below). Travellers intending to
make a longer stay to study the monu-
ments will find Derairli a convenient
camping-place for the first group, and
Kumbet or the vioinity of the Midas-
monument for the second.
Firet Group . — At Ayaz fn, M Caves
of Hoarfrost/ 1 the monuments are cut
in the whitish cliffs of a soft crum-
bling volcanic stone. They are for the
most part sepulchral chambers, with
a faqade supported by columns, which
being of the triable rook, are generally
muon worn, and the . ornamentation
has sometimes entirely disappeared.
Some of these monuments are very in-
teresting as specimens of later Phry-
gian pre-Hellenic work ; the period
to which they probably belong is, as
a whole, that of the Persian domina-
tion in A. Minor, although some are
older. The view from the opposite
side of the valley towards the village,
and the background of cliffs honey-
combed with tombs, is very piotur-
esque. The facades with relief re-
presenting a pair of lions facing each
other are especially to be noticed;
and in the village travellers ought to
inquire for Bmall antiques, in the
hope of finding something of an early
period.
Many of the sepulchral chambers
have been used again in the Christian
riod. Several which lie E. and W.
ve been remodelled into small'
churches. In at least two cases there ;
are small chambers, which appear to*
have been originally cut as churches.
One, a little 8. W. from the village, ha»
an inscription round the apse in Tetters-
not earlier than the 6th or 7th cent ▲ Jr,
Another, which is situated at the ex-
treme S.W. point to which the rock
cuttings extend, is larger, more elabo-
rate, and would well repay careful
examination by an architect : it con-
tains a dome, is very complex, and
highly ornate.
About 11 hrs. N.N.W. of Ayaz fn
are the most interesting monuments
of this group ; the path turns off from
the Ayaz fn valley, close by the
domed rock -church, passes a fountain
(1 hr.), then a small rock tomb (L),
then a mill and a stream flowing
8.W., beyond which are low rocks.
Numerous rock-hewn monuments are
found in these rocks — around the
head waters of another tiny stream
which flows away S.W. ; and the
path leads struigut past them to
Demirli, 1 hr. further on. The most
striking of all these monuments is
represented in the accompanying
figure. It is certainly uinong the
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137
Route 46 .— The Phrygian Monuments.
oldest of the Phrygian monuments, and Phrygian art is not imitated. The
oan hardly be later than the ninth devioe may be, and probably is, much
oentury b.o. The resemblanoe of the older them the 9th cent. b.o. ; it was
device to that of the Lion- Gate of employed in Phrygia at all times,
Myoenae is very striking, though the and examples of it oan be seen in the
art which carved these heavy thickset country dating from all periods, down
animals is very different from that of at least to the 8rd cent a.d. In
the slender active-looking animals at this case (and probably also at
Mycenae. The Phrygian device is Mycenae) the animals are lionesses,
employed at Myoenae, but the for their cubs lie beneath them. They
LION-TOMB.
are represented in very high relief,
probably as high ns 15 inches, facing
each other, with tbdr paws resting on
the frame of the .small door that
leads into the rude sepulchre, about
17 ft. above the ground The door
is out in the base of a curiously
' -shaped pilaster, approximating to the
outline of a primitive Doric column,
which supports a very heavy plain
•cornice. The pilaster forms a line of
separation between the. lionesses, and
the oornioe frames them above. The
marking of the hair round the neck
and on the logs, the eyes, the teeth,
the small triangular ears, can all be
distinguished on a careful survey.
The entire monument forms a cube of
about 87 ft, projecting from the
main mass of the rocky hillside. It
was! discovered in 1881 by Trof.
Ramsay; hut ten years before Prof.
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138 Route 46 . — The Phrygian Monuments .
Ernst ‘ Curtins had expressed the
belief that some future traveller would
discover in Phrygia the prototype of
the Mycenaean gateway.
Opposite the Lion-tomb, and about
120 yards distant, is an isolated mass
of rock with perpendicular walls. It
can be ascended only by a staircase
which leads up from a cave on the
eastern side. This place has been
used as a fortress in a primitive time,
and a breastwork out from the rock
probably surrounded it on every side.
But owing to the disintegrating pro-
cess, by which large fragments of
this friable volcanio rock are from
time to time detached from the main
mass, only a small part of the parapet
is now remaining. On one of these
fallen fragments, on the west side,
lion’s hbad.
traces of work can now be seen, proving
that there was a chamber, probably
sepulchral, in the rock on this side.
About 1 mile N. on the opposite
side of a little stream which, like the
others, flows to the S.W., is an
interesting monument, a rock altar , on
the other side of a hill, with an in-
scription in early Phrygian characters
over it, obviously an invocation to the
deity who was worshipped there. It
begins, “Matar Kubilo”; but only
these words and the last ten letters
now remain, owing to the surface that
contained the middle of tho inscription
having scaled away. The inscription
was m two lines, written bouttro-
vhedon, and the top line was written
from right to left
About 100 yards from the Lion-
tomb, round the corner from it, are
the remains of another, which has
been the most striking in Phrygia.
Large masses of stone lie scattered
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Route 45 . — The Phrygian Monuments . 139
on the hill sidA One contains a
lion's head in high relief (about
18 in.); it measures 7J ft. from
the nose to the back of the head.
Though the detail, especially the
rendering of the hair and the mark*
ing of the muscles, is conventional in
style, and though the injuries to the
tip of the nose and to the teeth some-
nearly 8. Two fragments of the
sculpture that adorned the adjoining
face, looking W., are on the under
side of two other blocks, which lie
close by. The subject was two fully-
armed warriors, on the right and on
the left, with round shields and large
crested helmets, pointing their spears
at a hideous grotesque figure in the
bead is among the most remarkable chamber was in the breast of this
works of primitive sculpture, full of last figure. The. chamber must have
life and vigour. Beside it is another been of great size, probably 80 to
immense block containing the front 40 ft in length, while the breadth
paws of two other lions, belonging to was certainly 24 ft. Along one of
the same face, viz., that whioh looked the long sides there was a gallery.
ELEVATION OP WB8T INTERIOR, SHOWING RELATIVE POSITION OF EXTERIOR
SCULPTURE.
supported by columns with very re-
markable capitals, one of which is
still standing.
Two hundred yards further down
is another tomb , also presenting some
remarkable features. The face of the
monument is adorned with a geo-
metrical pattern, of style similar to
that of tho Tomb of Midas, described
below. The pediment is plain, but
supported by a pilaster in relief,
Similar to those in the pediments on
the end walls of the chamber in the
Broken Tomb. A short inscription
in arohAio letters is written on the
left side of the soulpturod face. Im-
mediate! |v behind, some accident has
disclosed the grave, whioh is at the
bottom of a deep well, originally hidden
by a closely-fitting stone inserted at
the level of the surface of the rock.
This grave is an important argument
for the view that several similar
sculptured faces, which have no visible
grave beside them, are really sepul-
chral, but that the grave has been so
cleverly concealed as to have escaped
detection. This monument is now
called Mai -task, “ the Stone of
Treasure and the traveller may be
entertained by listening to tales about
tho amount of treasure whioh was
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140
Route 45 . — The Phrygian Monuments.
found and carried away by previous lower part of her figure is not worked
travellers who made an excavation in into human form, so that she resembles
front of the monument one of those primitivo terra-ootta idols
in which the upper port of human
Close to Bey Xeui, 1 hr. W. of the typo surmounts a cylindrical lower
Lion-tombs, thoro are some rock - part. On each side of this goddess a
tombs, one of considerable interest, lion (or lioness) stands on its hind
with a short dromos out in the rock, legs, and rests its forepaws on the
leading up to a sepulchral chamber, shoulders of the goddess. On the W.
the entranoe to which is flanked by face of the rock is a griffin, marching
columns. In the high-pointed pedi- to the left, and on the E. face is a
ment over the outer doorway is a very tall lion (not a lioness), which
much defucod relief, showing two sit- rests its foropaws on the corner of the
ting animals — probably lionB — facing pediment The back of the rock was
each other, each placing its forepaw originally left plain ; but in Christian
on a small object, like a flower or times a hermit of the Stylite order
vase, between them. One hr. N. of made a sort of ladder of holes by
Hoy K. is Liyen, on tho old araba- which ho could ascend to a consider-
road from Kutaya to Kara - hissar able height ; there he cut out for him-
(Bte. 23). 1 m. N.E. from Liyen is self a tiny chapel, in which he pro-
a monument called Arslan Kayo, bably lived.
oarved in a conical rock about 60 ft. A little to the 3. of this monument
high, consisting of a similar kind of is a email Turbo, past which a road leads
soft volcanic stone to that which is direct to Demirli, 1} hrs. It is also
found in the whole of the monument worth note that both at Tekke Keui,
country; but thore is a horizontal 1 hr. S.S.W. from tho Lion-tombs,
sirutuiu, about 2 ft. thick, of a dif- und at Karaja Ahmed, 1 hr. S.W.
furent stone, near the base. The from Liyen (as well as at Altin-tush),
southern side of this rock has been there are religious establishments of
given a smooth surface, covered with much interest, having local legends
geometric pattern (now defaced), and miraculous tales connected with
surmounted by a low pediment, and them. These are probably survivals
having in its lower part a doorway, of local pre-Muhammadan religion,
The ceutral acroterion over the pedi- which doubtless had au origin before
ment obviously represents two snakes, even Christianity was introduced, and
and in the pediment is a relief re- which took upon them a Christian and
presenting two winged sphinxes, of afterwards a Muhammadan character
archaic type, marching towards each to suit the dominant religion. In
other. There was probably an in- many cases tho “Dede,* or “ saint,”
soription immediately below the pedi- may be considered as originally a
ment, but the letters are hopelessly deified anoestor, whose worship has
defaced by the action of the weather, been perpetuated in varying form
In this monument the door is repre- through oountlesa generations,
sen ted as open, the two valvae being
thrown back against the walls of the About a mile from Arslan KAya,
small cella into which the door gives and some distance to the 1. of the
access. The valvae are an imitation direct road to Demirli, is a monument
of wooden doors (probably covered of very similar typo to Arslan Kaya,
wi tli bronzo) studded with metal nails, but of simpler character; the pedi-
and having a lock or other means of ment, with sphinxes, is its chiof
fastening them. On the back wall of feature, but it is very much decayed,
the small cella is a remarkable relief, Immediately 8. of this is a conical
about 5 ft high. The goddess — ob- hill, rising to a height of about 500 ft
viously Cybele — stands in the centre, above the surrounding country, and
her hands, which are barely discern- forming a very prominent object. The
iblc, being laid on 'her breast. The rocky summit has been partly out,
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141
Route 45. — The Phrygian Monument !s.
portly built upon, so as to form a very
strong castle. This cnstle, Cbukuija
Kaleh, belongs to the period of the
Arab wars, when the predatory incur-
sions of the Saracens led to the con-
struction of a vast number of similar
forts all over tho exposed parts . of
Anatolia, to serve as temporary refuges
and strongholds. In this, as in many
other cases, it would be impossible to
provision the fort against a long siege ;
out the Arabs could not in their
desultory forays lay regular siege to
any plaoe.
There are many paths leading across
the central ridge of the Phrygian
mountains from the district we have
just been describing to the other group
of monuments. If we are right in
supposing that the “ Royal Road,”
from the Aegean coast to 8usa, the
Persian capital, entered the hill
oountrv at Bey K., it must have os-
oended the Bey K. stream to its
source, and on the other side have
descended by the monument of Kurt-
koja Dore, near the small village of
Bakshish; a neoond path runs from
Liyen, past Arslan Kaya and Cher-
kes K., and on the opposite side de-
scends past some late Roman and
Byzantine ruins ; a third leads from
Ayoz In to Yapuldak (4 hr*), or
Bakshish (4 hrs.); and a fourth from
Demirli to Bakshish (8 hrs.). These
mountains need further exploration.
But the most probable direction in
which other monuments may yet bo
discovered is in the district straight
north from Liven and Duver. Tombs
arc reported in that district, but all
those yet examined, though not a few
in number* have been of a late period
and devoid of special interest
The seoond ponp of Phrygian
monuments lies in the country round
the villages of Bakshish, Yapuldak,
and Kumbet, nil of which nro on the
upper waters of the river Parthenius,
which flows by Nacolia to the 8an-
garius. But the chief ruins are on the
crest of the watershed between the
Parthenius and another tributary of
the Bangarius, which flows towards
Ohifteler and joins the main river im-
mediately below the great fountains
in which it rises. This seoond tribu-
tary may perhaps be the XerabcUt* of
pseudo-Plutarch de FluviU.
Tho beautiful tomb in the Kurt-
koja Dere , near tho village of Bak-
shish, appears to belong to tho old
Phrygian kingdom which perished
about b.o. 675. It marks a new
departure in style, and is separated
by an interval from the older Midas,
and Arezsstis monuments (see below).
At Yapuldak there are remains of
a small rock-fortress with walls, gate,
honses, and a secret entrance by a
subterranean staircase, which can be
descended for a short distance. In
the highest rock, about 100 II. above
the plain, is a tomb with a phallio
emblem, which originally consisted
of two chambers, but which was, in
Christian times, enlarged and turned
into a rude church. On the walls are
Christian graffiti. Another interest-
ing tomb is a small chamber witji
arcosolia, and ornament of an archi-
tectural tvpe round the door both
inside and out. In the interior are
several sculptured gorgoneia whioh
Prof. Ramsay holds to be “ free
Phrygian developments of a Greek
type."
The village of Kumbet, Aferus,
stands on a rocky hill in a level
plain. The hill rises highest at the
N. end, where the rock is precipitous,
and it was occupied by a fortress
similar in character to that at Yapul-
dak. The most interesting remain is
at the N. end, where the rock has
been cut away so as to form a house
with several chambers. The rock-
walls are still 8 to 10 ft. high, and
there are two curious fire-plaoes of
the same date as tho house. A few
yards to tho 8. is a pro-Grook tomb
with a gorgoneion ; and there is also a
later tomb with two lions facing a
voso, and other ornament In the
rocks on the other side of the Valley
are several tombs, but none of great
importance.
Digitized by L^ooQle
142
Route 45. — Tomb of Midas.
The most famous and the most monument is really a large gravestone,
beautiful of all the Phrygian monu- The gray© was probably concealed in
ments is the Tomb of Midas, Yasiti a small oell with an inscription, on
KayOt “ the Written Rock,” discovered the left side of the monument, which
by Colonel Leake in 1800. This is a in 1887 had been taken as a store*
perpendicular rock surface, 54 ft. 9 in. house for one of the Circassian liouae-
by 50 ft, covered with ornomouts in a holds which in 1 885 sottled by foroe
complicated rectangular pattern (con- immediately in front of the monu-
tain lag maeander, crosses, squares, ment. In 1884 a little digging dis-
&c.). Over this is a low pediment, sur- closed the whole depth of this cave,
mounted by a central aoroterion, which but the disintegration of the soft
is unfortunately much injured by a volcanic rock hod made it impossible
break in the rock. Over this on the to assert that a grave had ever existed
left side is an inscription which can in it. This cave was once probably
be translated with much probability : completely hidden and approached
Ates Arkiaevais, son of Akenanolas, by a small (and probably secret)
erected (this monument) to Midas entrance: for examination of the
Lavaltas the King." We have here surface and of the inscription showB
in the name MlSar 'Aval either the that the side walls of the cave were
historical original or a namesake of once longer than they are now, and
the king Midas, famous in Greek that therefore a fragment of the rook
mythology and legend, as having the has fallen away from the front,
ears of an ass, which he vainly tried The Midas-monument is carved on
to conceal from human knowledge, the extreme northern rock of a small
aud known also to history ns having plateau elongated from N. to 8., about
married a daughter of Agamemnon, 2 miles in circuit, which was at ono
king of Oyme in Aeolis, and as having time, partly by scarping the rock,
committed suicide by drinking bull's partly by natural oloavuge, partly by
blood (an impossible method of attain- building (of which no stones remain
ing his end) after his defeat by the in position, but only numerous cuttings
Cimmerians about 675 b.o. But as it to receive the stones), formed into a
is recorded that the name Midas was fortress of extraordinary strength, pre-
borne by several kings of the dynasty, sentiug on all sides perpendicular
it is possible that the Midas of walls varying in height from 100 to
this monument was an older king. 300 feet It is an interesting study
Another inscription is engraved on to walk round the fortifications and
the right side of the monument. It observe the precautions taken at several
is to be observed that both these and of the entrances which cun still be
other inscriptions in this group are seen in good preservation; in somo
almost exclusively written from left few ports the line of dcfeuce has
to right, whereas in the other group almost entirely disappeared, and must
the inscriptions were written from have been chiefly or entirely artificial,
right to left. This is one of many On the E. side, about the middlo of
criteria which agree in marking the the long side, where the circuit is
northern group us later than the pinched in — as if the hill had once had
southern. The greater complicacy two peaks and a central depression
and dolioacy of the pattern, the elabo- inter duos lucos — is the chief gateway,
rate use of curves in the aoroterion, by which alone carriages cotdd enter
and perhaps the greater skill with the city. Parts of the cutting to
which the grave was concealed, mark receive the wheels can still bo seen on
the Midas-monument as later than the the road which leads up the slojie be
one called Mal-tash in the southern neath the rock-walls. On the vertical
group. Prof. Rumsay still holds to rock surface, to the right of the road,
Uie opinion, which is not accepted by were sculptured a series of figures in
Monsieur Perrot in his Ristoire de low relief, which diminish in hoight
VArt dans V Antiquity that the Midas- from about 10 ft. as one ascends. At
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 45 . — Piahmiah Kalesi .
143
last, just in front of the place where
the gate must have been, is an altar
on the right, beside which is a relief
representing the small figure of a
priest or god, about 8 ft in height.
Opposite, and at a lower level, on the
left side of the road, is an inscription,
which is identical, except in one word,
with the inscription on the right of
the Midas- tomb.
Within the city, about 100 yards
from the gate, is another altar with
inscription and a quaint representation
in incised lines ; and numerous cisterns
and other rock-cuttings can be seen
all over the plateau. Flint chips are
numerous — some have evidently been
worked; but the majority may be
nothing more than fragments used in
threshing-sledges. No fragments of
pottery which could give any indica-
tion of character and civilization have :
yet been found. Another very small
inscribed monument has been found
beneath the walls on the 8. side ; and
a very beautiful uninscribed monu-
ment, of later date, much smaller size,
but more delicate type tlion the
Midas-tomb, may be soon tinder tlio
walls about 300 yards S.W. from the
latter.
Opposite the Midas-tomb, about a
mile E. across the valley, is the
remarkablo early fort now called
Pishmish Kalesi. A round hill, on the
slopes of which may be seen several
early tombs (the most remarkable
being published by M. Perrot, Ezplor.
Archaeol ., p. 146) and the line of an
old roadway cut in the rock, is crowned
with a fortress partly cut in the rock,
and partly built There is an interest-
ing gate cut in the rock on the E.
side, and also a subterranean approach
on the W. side by a staircase cut in
the rock. This castle, whioh is much
tatter preserved than the city over
tlio Midas-tomb, is a very interesting
oxamplo of primitive fortification, and
is well worth careful and minute
examination.
From Tasili Kaya and Pishmish
Kalesi, a winding glen, bounded by
hills rising 100 to 500 ft, above it,
extends in a northern direction, and
in it ;rise several branohes of the
Xerabates (?); while feeders of the
Parthenius rise in the sides of the
Midas city. About f m. N.N.W. from
Pishmish Kalesi, on the opposite side
of the valley, is a monument , the
tomb of Arezostis, distinguished be-
yond all others in the district by
the length of the inscriptions upon
and beside it The complex orna-
ment on it, especially the acrote -
rion; is a curious study in geometrio
pattern. A little further N. the glen
opens in four directions, forming a
little valley nearly a mile in width ;
the water goes off towards the E.
On the N.W. side of this valley a
monument at once catches the eye by
its Doric ft*9ade, once supported by
oolumns, the shafts of which have
now fallen. The facade surmounts a
small portico cut ont of the rock ; and
two sepulchral chambers in the rock
at the back open on to this portion.
The monument has been drawn very,
inaoourately by Texier; and some
difficulties in regard to the chronology
of Phrygian art would probably bo
olearod up by a caroful architectural
survey of it It probably belongs to
the period when Greek influence was
beginning to affect Phrygia, in the 4th
cent. b.o.
About 150 yds. N.N.E. of this
tomb is another cut in the face of
an isolated rock. It consists of a
sepulchral chamber with a small door,
beneath which is some much worn
sculpture representing two horses and
a human figure. Inside the tomb are
Christian graffiti. Further N. is the
curious rock Voghan Kalesi. It rises
from an elevation in the valley, and
is about 70 ft high. The rock is
honeycombed with chambers, which
were reached by steps now worn away,
but they contain nothing important
The writing used on these monu-
ments in Phrygia is Greek, i.e. de-
rived from a Greek alphabet As
Greek kings of Aeolio Cyme were in
communication with the kings of
Lydia and Phrygia during the 8th
cent b.o., it is natural and probable
that the Phrygians adopted the
Digitized by
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144
Route 45 . — Heidi Ohazi — Eaki-ehehr.
Oymaean method of writing at that
time instead of the M Hittite” hiero-
ihios which they had previously
From Midas-monument there is an
easy road to Bardakehi, Santabaris
(3 lire.), whore aro extensive Byzan-
tine remains, and thenoe the foot of
the hills is skirted to
Seidi Ghasi, Nacolia (4 hre.), alt
3150 ft. There are also a direct
bridle-path from the monuments by
Tashlik in 4 hre., and a longer road
by Kumbct in 7} lire. Little is
known of Nacolia excepting that it
was the place where the Emperor
Yalens defeated the usurper Pro-
copius ; and that during the reign of
Arcadius it was occupied by a Gothic
gurriBon which revolted against the
Emperor. It must huvo been an
iin|>ortnnt place whon the road which
ran through it from Dorylaeuin (Etki-
shehr) to Santabaris, Caccabo Come
(Khosrev Pasha Khdn\ and Iconium
( Konia ) was in use. Boon after 787
it became an arohbishoprio. During
the reign of Ala-ed-dtn, 1237-57, it
was discovered, by revelation, that
the famous Arab warrior Sid el-Battal
el-Ghazi died and was buried hero,
and a Tekke was founded which
became a noted place of pilgrimage.
Seidi Ohazi is built in a semi-
circular recess in the hills, at one end
of which is a tumulus. Above the
town is the Tekke with the mosque
and tomb of Sid el-Ghazi ; and to the
L is the site of Nacolia, with remains
of the walls before which, according
to local tradition, the hero wue slain.
The Tekke consists of a largo pile of
brick buildings with domed roofs, and
a high square minaret. The site was
originally occupied by a Byzantine
monastery and church, and much of the
existing structure once formed part of
tho monastery. There is a short, steep
ascent to the entrance, whence a
passage, in which are 4 inscriptions ,
leads rt. to an open court where are
a fountain and several fragments of
the church. On the right side of the
court are large domed chambers with
enormous fire-places, and on tho left
are the mosque and several tomb
chambers* The door of the mosque is
elaborately carved with arabesques,
and the metal-work is richly ohasod.
On the floor is a very old carpet said
to have been a gift of the mother of
Ala-ed-din. On the rt. a door, plated
with gold and silver, leads to the
tomb-chamber of Sid el-Ghazi. The
tomb is 30 ft. long and covered with
the usual carpets, <fcc. At the top is
a fine head-dress, and at the foot is a
beautiful metal cup, with raiaod
figures of Christian design, which was
possibly a chalioe from the old church.
There are other finely worked metal
vessels in the chamber which are
apparently Persian, or of Persian
design. Beside the tomb of the 8id
is that of the Krai Kis , an infidel
princess, his roputod wife. The liiato-
rioul Sid ol-Battal el-Ghazi, tho
fame of whose exploits has filled
many volumes of Moslem romance,
and furnished some of tho tales that
have adorned the memory of the later
Oid of Spain, perished on the field of
Acroenus (Ajium Kara-hissar ) in 739,
when the Arabs were defeated by
Leo the Isaurian.
On the plain near Seidi Ghazi are
two tekkes , a tumulus, and the ruins
of a church; and 2} hre. N.E. is
Arab-euren , where are ruins and in -
scriptions. There is a good araba -
road partly over undulating country,
partly over level plain to
Eski-skehr, Dorylaeum (8 hre.), on
the Ismid- Angora Rly. (Rte. 22).
Alternative route from Aflftiu Kara-
hissar to the Monuments. The road
crosses the river by a bridge where is
a Roman mile-stoue, and runs down
the valley to Barmens, Augustopolis
(2J hre.), — a few inscriptions , and
traces of antiquity, and close by two
tumuli. Turning now to the L, and
entering the hills, the quarries from
which the oelobrated marble, called
Mygdonian, Docimian, Synnadic, and
Phrygian, was obtained are reach od
iu 2} lire. They are on the 1. bank
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 46 . — Sanduhlu
445
of the stream, and the marble forms
a striking oontrast to the adjoining
volcanic rocks. 8ome of the marble
is yellowish white, and has all the
qualities requisite for statuary, whilst
some has those rich purple veins in
which the poets saw the blood of
Atys. In the quarries are some rude
Christian and other sculptures.
Iotye Kara-hissar, Docimium (8}
hrs.), is curiously situated on some
basalt rocks, and in a gorge which the
stream has cut through them. There
are several inscription*, including
interesting quarry marks; broken
oolumns and other unimportant re-
mains.
Beidilar ( 1 ) hrs. ) ; the soft volcanic
rock has here been weathered into
quaint forms; and near the villago,
small chapels, chambers, and tombs
have been excavated in isolated rocks.
The village is built on the slope of a
picturesque rock, which was apparently
a fortress of tlio Phrygian type; in
the lower part arc many tombs. There
arc hero the ruins of a church, some
to eeripiione, a mosque, and a tekke.
Borne of the old Moslem tombs are
interesting. | hr. from Seidilar is
Kirk-in, a large isolated rock, in a
pretty glen, wnich appears to have
been a monastery. There are three
stones of rock-hewn chambers in
which the cross has been frocly used
for decorative purposes. In the lower
story was the chapel. From this
place a rough mountain track may be
followed by Baurdi to Ayas-tn (7)
hrs ), see p. 136.
From 8eidilar there is nn araba-road
by Gut -In (rock-hewn, chambers, Ac.)
to Beyat (3} hrs.), near which are the
ruins of dssar Kdtoi, probably
Cedrea ; ami Khosrev Pasha Khin,
Caccabo Come (4 hrs.) — a miserable
village, in the cemetery of which are
several inecripiione. The large khin
from which the place takee its name is
almost entirely built out of the ruins
of a Urge Bysantine church, and the
cross and other Christian emblems are
[Turkey]
visible in several plaoes. From the
khkn to the Midae-monumenl (8
hrs.).
ROUTE 46.
DINKIR TO AFIUM KARA-HISSAR.
(1.) Bw Sandukli (18 hra> This
route follows the line of the Roman
road from Apamea to Doryloeum as
far as Cidyessus. On leaving Dineir
(Apamea) the path runs up the glen
in whieh U one of the eourcee of the
Maeander, and in | hr. cr oes es a
rocky ridge, where traces of the
Roman road are visible, to the Dornbai
Oen*i f and pin in of Aulocrene. The
plain is enoloentl on all sides by hills,
and has no visible outlet Taming
N. by Domhai , the village of Afshar
is reached in 8 hra ; and soon after-
wards some low bills are crossed to a
broad open valley, down which the
rood runs past several villages, on the
hills rt and L, to Kuenra^ and thenoe,
passing Ilija (hot springs and baths
which are a great medicinal resort)
to
Sandukli (9 hrs.), alt 8640 ft, a
town of mediaeval growth, and seat of
a kaimakam. It is situated on the
E. side of abroad rich valley, through
which run the upper waters of tne
Glaueue , a tributary of the Maeander.
In this valley Uy the cities of the
Phrygian PetUapolie , of which the sites
were unknown until Prof. Ramsay’s
researches under the auspices of the
Asia Minor Exploration Fund. The
chief city Hieropolit was at Koefc-
hieear , where there are considerable
ruins that require excavation. The
other citiee were Ofrwt, now Gtar-
hittar ; Buearpia, now Emir hieear,
where are remains of the walls, and
L
Digitized by L^ooQle
146
Route 4 6,—OhiftU Kassaba.
1 m. N E. a row of tumuli on a hill ;
Brouxu s, now Kara-sandukli ; ami
Stectorium , near lie Mesjid , where are
ruins and a small theatre. From
Emir-hissor an easy ar aba-road runs
up the valley of the Aram Chai, and
down the A hat K. stream to Aomonia.
[Sandukli is connected with Kas-
saba (see below ), 6 lira, distant by a
road which crosses a ridge 6200 ft
high and descends by Bash-euren and
Aidin (rock-chambers). In the other
direction a road runs W. across the
plain to Koch-hissar and Kitilja K. }
and then over a rough mountain
district in 9 lira, to lihekli(Eumeneia).]
Proceeding N. from Sandukli, the
village of Hajan is reached in 2 hra. ;
and the road then crosses the hills to
the Sichanli Ova either by the Hassan
Bel to Vasha K. and Oeukche Euyuk ,
anct Cidyessus , or, leaving Savran to
the rt., to Senir K. From the Sichanli
Ova a ridge of rugged trachyte hills
is crossed to A. Xara-hissar (9 hra.).
(2.) By Kastaba (19 hra.). This
route follows the lino of the Roman
road from Ap&mea to Docimium and
Amorium. The path c tosses as before
to ;the Dombai Ovasi, and, running
N.E. over the plain, reaches Akche K.
in 2 hra. It then follows the line of
the old road over the hills to the rich
plain of the Chul Ova , in which are
Alp Arslan (6 hra.) and other villages
— some as Kboru, and Tatarli haviog
inscriptions . This plain is the Metro-
^ i us Campus in which Manlius
on his march from Sagalassus
to SynnAda, and in it lay the city of
Metropolis,
Two roads led northwards from the
plain. One singularly easy, and still
practicable for arabas throughout,
follows the line of the ancient road
from Ephesus through Apamea to the
East. It runs N.E. from Alp Arslan
to Tatarli, Kara-dxlli, Oeneli , whence
there is an easy road, perhaps that
followed by Manlius, to Kassaba,
Karaja-euren and Chai , on the road
to Konia (Rte. 44Y The other road
runs due N. over the plain for 2 hra.,
and then crosses a bare lofty ridge,
on tho slopes of which the outtings
and curves of the finely-engineered
Roman road are visible, to the plain
of Kassaba. Over this road, which
passed Baljik-hissar , porhaps Melissa,
where Alcibiadcs was killed, the
enormous monolithic columns of Do-
cimian marble were transported to
the coast. After crossing the ridge,
the way lies for 2 hra. over the plain,
past Mahmxid K. to
Chiffit Kassaba, Synnada (71 hra.),
alt. 8780 ft, a wretched village in
the centre of tho plain, and seat of a
mudir. There are large numbers of
inscriptions in the cemetery, the foun-
tains, the bridge, and in the houses,
which are chiefly built out of the
ruins of the ancient city; but thero
are no remains of importance. Syn-
nuda is first mentioned before the
battle of Ipsus, n.o. 301, and in the
march of Manlius against the Gauls.
Cicero mentions that he passed through
it on his way to Cilicia. The marble
from the quarries of Docimium was
called Synnadic, probably, as Prof.
Ramsay suggests (A. M. 170), because
the central office for managing the
quarries was at Synnada.
For 1 hr. after leaving Kassaba the
road lies over the plain. It theu
crosses the hills by an easy pass to
the valley of the Akkar Q hit, and,
afterwards, runs past Solar K. and
Stulun , whero are a theatre, and
many traces of the anct. Prymnessus , to
Aflfim Xara-hissar (5| lira.). See
Rte. 44.
Digitized by Tooele
Route 47. — Olu-borlu.
147
ROUTE 47.
DINEIR — YALOVAOH — KONIA.
DBS.
Olu-borlu (Sotopolis ) . . T
Yslovach (Antwch) . .13*
Kara-ogach (ffeapolu) 6*
Selkl-seral by Iflatun Bunar 8
Konls (Iconiwn) . .14
The rood runs over the pass to the
Dombai Ova$i (p. 145), And then
creeses the plain to
Bunar-bashi, Rhotrini Fonts# (2 bn.),
alt 8290 ft., where Selencns came,
from Apamea, to meet Manlius. The
water issues from the rock in number-
less tiny rills, and flows off to a lake
or reedy marsh in the plain where it
disappears, to come to light again as
one of the head waters of the Maean-
der. Hardly in Greece itself is there
a place more sacred with legend than
this beautiful spring. “ Here Athene
threw aside hor Ante, and Marsvns
picked it up ; here MArsyas con ten ded
with Apollo, and on the plane-tree
beside tne fountain he was hung up
to be flayed. In the plain below
Lityerse* was slain in the harvest-
field by the sickles of the reapers.”
[From Bunarbashi there are an
easy road by Iiye-tu to Kochi-borlu
(2) hrs.); and a bridle-path to Alp
Arslan (p. 146) in the Chul Ova
(8J hrs.).]
Boon after leaving the spring, a low
spur, on which are traces or the Roman
road, is crossed ; and beyond Chaparli
there is a steep ascent of 20 min. At
the hood of the pass, 4070 ft, is a
fallen pillar, with an inscription da tod
a.d. 185, which marks the boundary
of the Roman Provinoe of Asia. 1 hr.
further an easy road leads L to the
Ohul Ova; ana in another hour, after
passing 27ef, whence a good road runs
off. rt. to Keohi-borlu, a rocky ravine,
in which the Roman road is visible
is followed to the rich, fertile plain of
Olu-borlu, Apollonia-Sotopolu (5
hrs.), alt. 8880 ft The town is the
seat of a Kaimakam, is prettily situ-
ated on the lull-side, and has good
fruit orchards. In the old citadel,
built on a remarkable rock that stands
out from the hills, are the houses of
the Greek portion of the population.
A bridle-path runs over the hills to
Oeuneny and Konana , and Itbarla
(p. 150). ApoUonia was an important
city, probably founded by the Perga-
menian Kings. Prof. Ramsay suggests
(A. if., p. 4011, that it was situated at
Olukman in the plain, and that when
it was deserted in the 4th cent Soso-
polis was founded on the site occupied
by Olu-borlu. SotopotU was a place
of pilgrimage in Byzantine times. It
had a church and a statue of the
Virgin, from which oil exuded. The
church was founded, aooording to
tradition, by Mark, the cousin of 8.
Barnabas, and it has preserved an
unbroken continuance to the present
day. Sosopolis passed into the hands
of the 8eljflks, by agreement with
Michael VII., in 1074 ; was recaptured
by John Coinnenus in 1120; was un-
successfully besieged by the Bcljftks
in 1142; and was finally taken by
them in 1180.
On leaving Olu-borlu, the road runs
down the valley at the foot of the
Borlu D. to Bcnirgcnt , a large village
with two mosques and flue gardens,
and Tasti-suren, Tymandus - Tcd-
bonda (2} hrs.), where there aro a
mosque, a tekke, and several inscrip-
tion#. In the hill, } hr. 8.E., is a
fine spring called Ayaeman (ay(curpa%
to which the Greeks of Olu-borlu make
a pilgrimage in August; it was dedi-
cated, in pagan times, to Hercules
Rcstitutor. Below Beuv&k Kabaja ,
tho valley booomes a wide plain ex-
tending toYenije (3} lire.) on the shore
of the Hobran QeuL, alt 8080 ft, — the
northern of tho double lake, “ Limnac .”
From Yenije the shore of the lake is
followed, past DashgesH Devrend, for
2 hrs., to the swamp at its head, and
L 2
Digitized by
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148
Route 47 . — Yalovcuh—Kara-agach.
the road then rone oyer the Kaziri
Ova to Qond&ne, OanzaAna (41 hro.).
Here, in a cemetery by the road-side,
is an interesting inscription, giving a
list of persons with their abode, and
the amount of their subscriptions for
the purchase of certain articles em-
ployed in the worship of Artemis
Limnatis. In Christian times the
cultus of the Virgin Mother of the
Lakes succeeded to that of Artemis,
the Virgin of the Lakes ; and at the
present day there is a shrine of the
Virgin at Qhaziri , 2 hre. 8. on the
lake shore, which is an object of pil-
grimage for all the Christians in
Pisidia and Lyeaonia. Hence over
undulating ground to
Yalovach, Antioch (81 hrs.), alt.
8460 ft, a purely Moslem town, with
fine gardens and good water ; it is tho
seat of a kaimakam. Antioch is said
to have been founded by a colony from
Magnesia ad Maeandrum, and to have
been one of the 16 towns named by
Seleuous after his father Antiochus.
After the defeat of Antiochus the
Great, at Magnesia, it was added to
the kingdom of Pergamum. Later it
was made a Roman colony with the
title of Caesarea. It was connected
with Lystra by the “Royal Road"
made by Augustus. Under Claudius
(▲.D. 41-54), when it was visited by
Paul and Barnabas (Acts xiii. 14),
Antiooh was at the acmo of its im-
portance as tho governing and military
centre of the 6. half of Galatia. It
was called “ Pisidian Antiooh," to dis-
tinguish it from the Great Syrian
city of the same name; and later it
became the Metropolis of Pisidia. It
was at Antioch that S. Thecla, a
convert of S. Paul’s, was exposed in
the arena. During the first crusade.
a.d. 1097, the armiesof Bohemond and
Tancred, exhausted by their march
after the battle of Dorylaeum, found
welcome rest and shelter within the
walls of Autioch.
The ruins of the old city are on
tho rt. bank of the river Anikins, about
1J m. above the modem town. The
fragments of the t calls, and their
position, show that Antioch was a
strong fortress of the Fletfenistic and
Roman type. The whole site is
covered with blocks r jf marble, amidst
which are the remain* 0 f a theatre, a
temple, and a chur ch ; and the line of
the main street an be traced. At
one place there bj a remarkable rock-
cutting, nearly semicircular iu form,
with a square mass of rook in the
centre, which perhaps marks the site
of the temple of Men Ascaenus, who
was worshipped in the city. There
are considerable remains of a fine
aqueduct which brought water from,
the Sultan D. There are inscription*-
here, and also at Yalovach.
[There is a bridle path (6 hrs>>
from Yalovach to Ak-shehr ( Philo-
melium ). It climbs a steep rugged
glen on one side, crosses tne Sultan
D., about 6000 ft, and descends a
similar glen on tho other sido.]
The road onward runs over undu-
lating ground at the foot of the
8ultan D., and in 8} hrs. the water-
parting between the Egirdir and Bey-
shehr lakes is crossed. There is then
an easy descent to a plain, with many
deep wells, in which lies
Xara-agaoh, Neapolis (5$ hrs.). It
was formerly one of the principal
towns of the Seljfik principality of
Hamid, but is now a miserable town
of mud huts surrounded by gardens.
It is tho seat of a kaimakam, and has
a good water supply brought by
conduit from the hills. There are
several inscriptions . In the 1st oenty.
a.d. Neapolis replaced the earlier
Anaboura, which appears to have been
at the deserted site Enevre, about 7
m. to the W.
J 'From Kara-agach there is a diffi-
t araba-road (12 hrs.) over tho
Sultan D. to Ughin ( Tyriaeum ). It
leaves Charik-serai, anct. Pappa, one
of the towns of the Orondeis, to the
rt, and runs over hilly ground to
Makir-direk, where it commences a
steep ascent to the fine yailas of the
Sultan D. At DoyhanJilssar (7 lira.),
the hill-roud from Ak-shehr to Konia
Digitized by L^ooQle
149
J&otite 48.- — Kechi-borlu.
(p. 1 .»> is crossed, sod in a fountain
at Yun 4-ihehr, | nr. further, is an
in$c ration. Hence the desoent is
eas «, through Ddi K. to Hghin
(5 hia.)J
Beyond Kara-agach the road crosses
a jrour of the Sultan D., 4090 ft, on
w tifoh are traces of the Roman road,
b efoce reaching Xsreli(4 hrs.), — a poor
' Ullage 'df mud houses about 1 hr.
1 bom ‘Bey-thehr Geul , anct CaraUit.
Here is a milestone on the Roman
aoad, Antioch— N eapolis — Mis th ia —
OaraOia. Near Kereli, possibly at
JMbaojftr, most haye been Midhia,
tthe seat of a bishopric, which was
Ttriken by the Arabs in 712. Oontinu-
?ing oyer fertile ground for about 8
Ihrs. the road passes through Chukwr -
tjgent and Yenije to lilatun Bunar,
••‘Plato's spring." Here numerous
springs rise at the foot of a remarkable
i monument, and form a large pool
whence a stream runs off to the Bey-
ssliehr Lake. The monument, which
iis built of enormous blocks of basalt,
•consists of an unpierccd facade, with
part of a wall at right angles to it
From the remains lying about, it has
been supposed that there was a roofed
chamber behind the fagade, with
windows and a frieze of animals.
The facade is 22 ft. 6 in. long and
12 ft. 8 in. high, and is composed of
14 stones of different size, with well-
dressed joints and faces. On the top
stone, which is a huge monolith
22 ft. 6 in. long, and 2 ft. 8 in. high,
is a winged disc. Beneath this is a
stone, 15 ft 8 in. long, with two
winged discs, which forms a sort of
entablature supported by two pillars
7 ft high. On each pillar is a figure
with uplifted arms: that on the rt
has a round hat, that on the L a
conical one ; both head - dresses
resemble those at fcoghaz Keui (p. 24).
Between the pillars are two stones,
and on the outer side ef each pillar
are four more. Bach stone h** a
figure cut on it, those on the two
upper corner blocks being best pre-
■erred. The figures are of the same
type as those at Bcehaz K., and the
monume nt rosy perhaps hays been
raised to the God of the springs.
The stones of the side wall nays a
9J in. marginal draft and faces pro-
jecting one inch. The monument
may also be visited from Bey-shehr
(p. 154), 8 hrs. 8.B. The Konia road
turns N. to
Belki-ierai (4 hrs.), and thenoe
follows the line of the Roman road, of
which there are many traces. In
4 hrs. the remains of a large church
are passed at Yunudar , anct. Vcuada,
and after ascending a narrow valley,
between basalt hills, for 2 hrs., the
road enters a small plain, on the side
of which is KisU-euren (7f hrs.). In
the plain are an old mosque and khin,
and hence there is an aroba-road to
Bey-shehr. After crossing a oof,
4960 ft, the road follows a ravine to
another old khfcn, where it is joined
by the hill-road from Ak-shehr, and
from this place it is 8 hrs. over a
hill to
Konia (6} hrs.). See Rte. 44.
ROUTE 48.
DINEIR — BULOUR — 8AQALA88U8~~
I8BART A — EQIRDIR — KONIA.
HBft.
Kfchl-borln .... 41
Baktar •
AgbUtfln (Sagalaitui) 0*
ItbtrU (Barit ) . ... 3%
Eglrdlr ( Proitanna ) . •
Gkltndos (Amblada!) ... Si
K*r»-«ffftdb (JVeapotti) t
Koala (lamium) . n
An easy araba-road runs 8.E. along
the foot of the Ah. D. to Dikiji, and,
over the ridge separating the waters
of the Maeander from those of the
Buldur QeiU to
Xsohi-borlu (4J hrs.), a large vil-
Digitized by
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150
Route 48 . — Buldur — Isbarta *
logo in the midst of luxuriant orchards
of walnut, plum, cherry, and apple
trees, which arc carefully irrigated.
From a rock on one side of the village
there is a fine view over the gardens
and the plain that stretches down to
the lake. By following the direct road,
which runs through Paradis, anct.
Aporidos Come t, and crosses an easy
pass to the valley of the Oestrus,
labor ta may be reached in 6 hrs.' It is,
however, more interesting to prooeed
to Kilij, anct. Bindaeus-Eudoxiopolis
( Inscrips .), and thence round the N.
end of the lake to
Buldur (6 hrs.), alt. 8150 ft., tho
chief town of a Sanjak. It is about
2 m. from the lake, and is called by the
Greeks Polydorion. Buldur is a large
well-paved town, situated in the midst
of magnificent gardens, which form a
striking contrast to the desert charac-
ter of the surrounding chalk hills.
Tanning and dyeing leather, and
weaving and bloaohing linen, ure the
chief industries. The Buidur Oeul ,
anct. Ascania Limne , is a brackish
sheet of water with swampy shores,
about 18 m. long and stretching N.E.
and 8.W. The surrounding hills are
in part picturesque, and tho colouring
in earlv morning and evening is very
beautmil. Large numbers or pelican
and wild fowl are generally to be
found on the lake. On leaving Buldur
the road runs up a valley in the chalk
hills to Kuma, and thou crosses the
hills, 4760 ft., to Bash K., where are
fine walnut, plum, and oak trees, and
Aghlasfin (6} lira), a small village,
embedded in rich foliage, at the 8.
foot of tho AgMasun V. From tho
village, which derives its name from
(X)ay\a<r6», it is a sharp climb of
40 min. to the ruins of Bagalassus,
now called Budrikm. Sagalassus, or
Selgessus, was an important Pisidian
town, which was captured by Alex-
ander the Great. Inscriptions show
that its territory, partly laid waste by
Manlius, was of very wide extent.
The position of the ancient city is
most striking, and the view 8. from
the theatre is especially fine. The
buildings have apparently been over-
thrown Dy earthquakes, and the site is.
covered with the remains of temples,
palaces, porticoes, gymnasia, tombs,.
Ac. On the 8. side is an isolated
conical hill, with remains of walls*
which is apparently the acropolis
mentioned by Arrian. Above the
lowest terrace are the ruins of a fine
temple, from which a kind of via
tacra led to an agora or forum, near
the centre of the city, which was sur-
rounded by public buildings. Above
is a large theatre, of which the seats
and part of the proscenium remain.
Near the theatre are large numbers of
rock-tombs and sarcophagi; and at
the W. end of one terraoe is an oarly
Byzantine church.
The road from Aghlasfin, which
runs through the ruins, reaches the
head of the pass over the Aghlasfin D.,
5640 it, in 1} hrs. Thence there is a
very steep, rocky descent of } hr., and
afterwards the bed of a narrow valley,
through which the infant Oestrus flows
between blue limestono cliffs, is fol-
lowed. In the lower part of the valley
are the gardens that produce the noted
pears of
Isbarta, Baris (SJ hrs.), the ohief
town of the Hamid Sanjak. Isbarta
(sis BdpiSa) is beautifully situated
at the N. foot of the Aghlasfin D.
with a rich plain in front, and it is
better built than most of the towns in
tho district. Many of the houses havo
large gardens, and streams of water
run through the streets. At the en-
trance to the town is a large mosque
with a dome which was formerly gilt ;
and there are about SOother mosques.
There is a small Greek population,
whose language is Turkish. Baris
was an important city, striking coins,
and was the seat of a bishoprio ; but
excepting a few inscriptions and large
blocks of stone little is left. The
road now crosses the fine plain, dotted
with waluut and plum trees, and, after
a slight ascent, reaches the crest of
the ridge connecting the range of
Davras D. on the 8. with that of Borlu
D. on the N. From this point a pretty
view is obtained of the Egirdir lake
Digitized by
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161
Bout* 48. — Egirdir .
and its islands; and a sharp descent
leads to the picturesque Moslem
Tillage of
Egirdir, Prostanna (6 lire.), whioh is
situated partly at the foot of the
mountain, and partly on a small rocky
spit that juts out into the lake. The
konak, an old mosque with a fine
gateway, and akhfcn are on the narrow
part of the spit ; On the wider are the
walls of the old fortress built by the
Byzantines and restored by the Seljfik
Sultan AJa-ed-din. There are also the
tombs of several sheikhs, including
that of 8heikh Musli-ed-din* a cele-
brated scholar of the 14th century.
Near the town are two islands. The
nearest, } m. from the shore, is covered
with vines and gardens ; the second,
Nts Adasi , J m. further to the N., has
a few trees, and a small Qreek popu-
lation sneaking only Turkish. There
is an old Byzantine church, with some
much disooloured frescoes, and a
modern church. It was here that
Prof. Hirachfeld found some fragments
of the biography of Euthymius.
Prostanna was tlio scat of a bishop.who
took his title of Limnao from the twin
lakes. Timftr, after destroying Olu-
borlu, stormed the fortifications of
Egirdir (1402), and took the islands by
ferrying men over on rafts made of
inflated skins.
South of Egirdir rises the steep
Sivri D.j — the N. termination of the
Davras range, — on which is said to be
a castlo taken by Sid el-liattal el-
Ghazi, probably the anot. V tarot that
appears on coins of Prostanna. At the
8. end of the same range is the lofty
snow-capped peak, Davras D., which
is mentioned by Hajjii Khalfa as
Yalesaa Feros. The lake is a fine
sheet of water, oovering about 54 sq.
miles, which is divided into two
parts by projecting mountain spurs.
The 8. pirt, Egirdir Gcnl y is sur-
rounded by lofty mountains which
rise abruptly from the shore, exfcept at
the 8. end where the Boghaz Su
runs out through a deep valley. The
shore of the N. part, Hoiran Qeul, is
in places fiat and swampy, and in
plaoes bordered by low hills. The
whole lake was called Limnae , and
was noted for the abundance and
variety of its fish, and for the excel-
lence of the grapes grown on the sur-
rounding hills. In Jan. 1880, it was
partially, and occasionally it is com-
pletely frozen over. In the 14th cent,
numerous boats plied on its surface,
but there are now only a few frail flat-
bottomed craft The combination of
lake and mountain scenery is vory fine,
and many a far-famed European lake
is inferior in picturesque beauty.
[(i.) Egirdir to Antioch , 20 hrs. A
rough bridle-path, affording a charm-
ing variety of soenery, runs along the
W. side of the lake to Barla (5 hrs.),
KaJber (5 hrs.), Gondane (6 lire.,
p. 148), and Antioch (4 hrs.).
(ii.) Egirdir to Adalia, 26} hrs.
This route, which passes through fine
mountain soenery, follows the f. bonk
of the Boghaz Su by a large spring
Bunar-bazdr , and Tepe K. (2} hrs.) to
the N. end of the Koghade GmL The
Boghaz Su, a deep, rapid stream, only
reaches the Koghade Goul in winter
and spring. At other seasons it dis-
appears in a series of M dudens ” ( Kata -
bothra) — one of great size, down wliich
the water thunders. The dudens of
tho Boghaz Su aro perhaps tho most
important in A. Minor. The road now
runs over the hills to a tributary of
the Ostrus, whioh rises in the Geuk
Bunar , a copious spring apparently
connoctod with tho Koghado Geul. It
then crosses a spur, and, passing near
a ruined monastery, Khoja-assar and
Match Kalesi, follows the oourse of a
narrow ravine to Chandir , in tho Pam -
buk Ova (8 hrs.), whence Bte. 50 is
followed to Adalia (15} hrs.).]
Leaving Egirdir, the road runs
round the 8. shore of tho lake, and
crosses tho Boghaz Su, near its point
of exit, by a bridge. From this point
thorn is a delightful summer road over
the SorJrunji D. to Bclgeas on the
N.W. shore of the Bey-shehr lake. It
passes through Sart-idrts, and a suc-
cession of beautiful “ alps,” the yailat
of a Yuruk Bey. The soenery is in
places very fine, and the highest point
Digitized by L^ooQle
152
Route 49 . — Oirme — Bujak .
orossod is 2900 ft. above the lake. By
this route it is 11 hrs. to Belgeas, and
thenoe 5 hrs. to Kereli, which is 18 hrs.
from Konia (Bte. 47).
The lower road, on which are old
Seljfik khfcna, runs along the E. shore
of the lake over the narrow pass
Demir Kapu. Here the nigged
mountains rise abruptly from the
water’s edge, and tho scenery is most
picturesque. The road winds in and
out with every indentation of the lake,
and every projection of the crags, now
descending steeply to the water's edge,
and now ascending again to hundreds
of feet above it. The opposite shore
is bordered by lofty mountains, and,
looking back, the village of Egirdir
appears to grow up out of the lake
like a miniature Venioe. The moun-
tains are broken by the valley of the
▲uthius about 2 hrs. before reaching
Gelendos (8} hrs.), a small town on
the L bank of the river, about 5J hrs.
bolow Antioch. Near it was probably
Amblada , where many members of the
Xenoi Tekmoreioi, “ the Quest-friends
who use the sign,” — a society nnited
in the worship of the Virgin of the
Limnae, — resided. From this place
the road runs along the foot or the
Sorkunji D. to
Xara-agach, Neavolit (7 hrs.),
whence Rte. 47 is followed to Xonia
(22 hrs., p. 133).
ROUTE 49.
I8BARTA — OREMNA — AD ALIA.
runs over the pretty little plain
Mamak Ova, and, crossing two low
rocky ridges, enters the Bujak plain
at lnjir-baz&r Khan , one of the
Seljfik defensible kli&ns, now in ruins.
It has an ornamental doorway, on one
side of which are the lion and sun
of 8ultan Ghiyas-ed-din. Thenoe
the road crosses tho plain, leaving
Bujak to the L, and in 7 hrs. reaches
Karu-bunar (tee below). The more
interesting route runs partly over
hilly ground, from Aglilas&n to
Girmt, Oremna (6J hrs.), which
stands, as its name denotes, on an
eminence, — a sort of promontory
formed by the abrupt termination of
a ridge of white marble. From the
summit, which is reached after an
hour's climb, there is an enchanting
view of wild rugged mountains in
every direction. The fine ruins have
suffered much from exposure, and are
scattered over 3 m. — temples, theatre,
and other buildings. Most of tho
temples are Corinthian. Fart of tho
walls aro Cyclopean. Cross tho hills
to
Bujak (3} hrs.), a large village with
good water, and the seat of a mudir.
The road now lies over the plain past
Silsiiz and Ytu Khdn, — another de-
fensible kh&n in fair preservation,
with a fine doorway on either side of
which are two winged figures, ap-
parently seraphim, — to Kara-bunar
(2$ hrs.). Continuing S. of the Kestel
Qeul, through a district, anct. Milyat,
which is remarkable for the num-
ber of isolated hills that rise like
islands out of the plain, we reaoh Bot-
burun Kahveh in 2 hrs. Here the
araha-road from Buldur comes in
from the rt., and the road enters the
hills passing through fino orchards
and vineyards.
HKS.
AghUs&n (Sagalauui) 4
Ulrm« ( Oremna ) . . .
Bujak 3*
Ad*U* (Attalia) . . 14|
In 1 J hrs. from the kahveh a small
upland busin is reached and here ono
road keeps to the rt. and runs down
the Ghibuk Boghaz, whilst the other
runs S.E. and descends the Dushme
Isbarta by Rte. 48 to Aghlasfin Boghaz. The distance is the same
(4 hrs.). The direct road to Adalia by both passes. The Chtbuk Boghaz
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 50. — FamUr. 163
Is used by pack animals as the
r lien ts are easier, but it is very hot
summer; it is a narrow rooky
ravine, in places only a few yards
wide, is very winding, and quite
unfit for arabas. The road by the
Duthms Boghaty “ paved pass,” crosses
the plain, and rises slightly to the
remains of a gateway in a wall that
protected the city of Oretopolu from
the N. Tho ruins cover a largo area
to the L of the road, but they are not
important There is now a steep
descent of 800 ft over a roughly
paved road 8-10 ft. wide. The pass
is not a difficult one, but the pavo-
ment is slippery and uneven, and
there are many sharp turns. At the
foot of the pass are extensive but
unimportant ruins and sarcophagi.
The road, after passing through an
opening in some small rocky hills,
enters the Chikin Ova. This groat
plain is for the most part ooverod
with thick brushwood, amidst which
the track winds. It consists of an
upper terrace, from which the moun-
tains rise abruptly, and a lower terraoe,
which ends in the cliffs of the Gulf
of Adalia. From the pass a direct
track crosses the plain to Adalia,
whilst the usual caravan road keeps
to the rt at the foot of the hills to
Xirk-geus Khtn (6) hrs.), an old
Beljfik khln near a fine spring.
Boon aften leaving the khin we cross
the great causeway of 40 arches from
which it takes its name. It is about
000 yds. long, and in two sections;
the first, 9 ft. wide, crosses running
water, the seoond, 6 ft. wide, crosses a
swamp. Not far off the water dis-
appears, to come to the surfaoe again
as the JDuden Su (p. 128). The road,
after passing the remains of a deep
rock-hewn channel, apparently for
irrigation, and two rest-houses, de-
scends to tho lower plain, over which
it is 2 hrs. to
Adalia (5) hrs.). Bee Rte. 42.
ROUTE 60.
KONIA — FA86ILER — BEY-8HEHR —
KARA BAULO— ADALIA.
HUB.
Inlfin . . . . •
Fueller (Dali Hindu*) 3
Dej-ebebr ( OxrnUia ) . . 3
Iskelas 3
Keetne •
Kara- baulo Yalta, near Adada . 10
Baulo 3
Chandlr 4
Adalia (AtUUid) . 15*
The road lies through Meram, tho
garden-suburb of Konia. in which the
Pasha and wealthy Turks reside, and
runs up the plain S.W. for 2 hrs. ; it
then enters tne hills and reaches in
1 hr. Chairbaghy a straggling village
with numerous gardens. 2} nrs. over
bare hills to Buiumia f 4600 ft.), where
is a small bazAr. Thence the toad
ascends tho stream, passing a fountain
and mill; tho valley soon narrows;
on the cliff, 1., ore rock-cut tombs. A
ruined Beljfik khAn is seen 1 hr. up
tho valley, and sarcophagi, rt After
1} hrs. the rood leaves the stream and
crosses the 1. ridge, descending to rt
of a large village, Inliju (9 lira).
Hence the general direction is S.W.
by W., but the road, which winds
over a very broken country, is difficult
to find, and necessitates a guide.
Fassiler, Dalitandu* (8 hrs.), is a
rich village, inhabited by men of a
singular facial type. In a dors, 5 min.
W., lies a remarkable monument, dis-
covered by Prof. J. R. 8. Sterrett, in
1884. It is a stele about 20 ft by
6 ft by 8 ft, detached from the bill
side and shaped; on the upper side
Is carved in very high relief a figure
in tho familiar *' Hittite ” tiara, stand-
ing on the head of a female whose
hands clasp her breast; on either side
of the latter are couchant lions. The
female is evidently a goddess of the
Cybele typo, and the position of the
upper figure is strongly suggestive of
Digitized by L^ooQle
154
Route 50 . — Bey-ahehr — Kava-baulo Yaila .
a “ Hittite ” origin for this porten- (Insert vs.), and shortly before reach-
toualy ngly monument, for a similar in£ Iskelas (3 bra) turns S. Near
attitude is familiar at Bogh&z Keui, this point was Parlaii, a Homan
and on Hittite seals. Like the reliefs colony and seat of a bishop : a hill
at “Plato’s Spring,” however (p. 149), covered with late ruins about 3 m. S.
this sculpture cun only certainly be of Iskelaz, perhaps marks the site,
pronounced native Lycaonian. On In 1| hrs. Kcuhaklu is reached, a poor
the opposite cliff inscribed niches and village standing just above the marsh
tombs of the Roman period ^rill be and unhealthy. One m. 8. of the
noticed. * village the track leaves the main
After passing through ChichthUr , road, and turns W. up a valley that
where an interesting imeription is runs down from the Anama$ D. (guide
built into the fountain, the road runs essential). A climb of 4} hrs. up a
on to good path, and through beautiftil
scenery, brings us to the crest of the
Bey-shehr (3 hrs.), a wretched un- ridge, about 6000 ft., whence exquisite
healthy town, which is formed by two views are obtained back over the lake,
villages, less than 1 m. apart, occupy- and forward towards the Eurymedon
ing the horns of a bay of the Bey- valley. Descending for } hr. to the
shehr Lake. It was one of the six yaila of Kesme, 4500 ft., and passing,
great cities of Hamid, and near it 1 hr. below it, a curious ruin of Roman
must have been Carallia , but there date (rt), we reach
are no antiquities of interest. There
are a poor bazdr and a fair hJtdn, ffesme (9 hrs.), a small village.
The Bey-thehr Lake , anct. CaraUU , is The path onward requires a guide ; in
a fine sheet of water with numerous 2 hrs. it passes through a conspicuous
wooded islands. The E. shore is gap in tho ridge to tho W. ; and in
bordered by a brood open plain, the another hour crosses the magnificent
western by lofty mountains. In 1142 oaHon of the Eurvmedon, a very steep
the islanders, who from intercourse descent of nearly 2000 ft, and an
with the Turks had adopted many of equally steep ascent of 1200 ft. to the
their customs, preferred Setfflk to wretched village of Kasinder, Be-
Byzantine rule, and John II. Com- yond the village the ascent is more
nenus was obliged to capture tho gradual to Toia Bel Yaila (about 7
islands by forco of arms. One of the hrs.), alt. 5000 ft, a good halting-
islands is now inhabited by deacon- plaoe with abundant water and pas-
dants of prisoners taken during the ture, and fine forest soenory.
wars with Russia.
The route from Bey-shehr is per- Kara-banlo Tails (3 hrs.), where
haps unequalled in A. Minor for the there is a fine spring in the precincts
attractions it offers. Nowhere is lake of the mosque, is } hr. from the rums
and mountain scenery of equal beauty of Adada, which are Amongst the
combined with so remarkable a spec- most remarkable in Anatolia. Adada,
taole as that of the ruins of Adrnla ; a Pisidian bishopric, was on the road
whilst the sportsman will find in the from Perge to Antioch traversed by
wild Pisidian valleys a great variety 8. Paul, and the name Baulo possibly
and abundance of game, large and commemorates his visit The ruins,
small. The journey should be mode first described by Schonboro, and, in
in summer, ub at other seasons two- 1884, by Prof. Stcrrctt, are situated
thirds of tho “yailus” are without at the W. edge of tho Zettgi Ova in
inhabitants; and the snow lies deep the midst of mountains not capable
in many of the passes until late in of being cultivated ; yet the extent of
the spring. the ruins shows that Adada was a
Leaving Bey-ghehr the road to town of great wealth. They consist
Alava is followed along the 8. shore of a walled acropolis, an agora with a
of tho lake. It passes near Badevdu flight of steps leading to a high plat-
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 51.— Seidt-ahehr.
155
form, streets, temples, and oolonnados,
among whose remains are many In-
scriptions. B. of the agora are the
ruins of a pnblio hall, once two
storied, and S. of tills nre two temples,
bat little rained, of which the most
complete is dedicated to the Aagasti
and Scrapie.
[Travellers not wishing to proceed
to Adalia can reach Eginlir (p. 151)
in 8} hr*, by Ispahilar, Dreskene,
and the Boghaz Su valley; or they
oan strike the Eurymedon Valley at
Aivanla in 4 hrs., then ascend the
valley for 8 hrs. to Bazir K. f and
thenco reach Egirdir in 4 hrs. by
Yilanli K., and a high pass, whence
fine views are obtained of the N. and
W. slopes of the Ananias D.]
Banlo (8 hrs.), a rich village on the
mountain side, boworcd in orchards.
A roagh mountain path leads henco
to the Pambuk Ova. In the lower
part of the Baulo Dere is Suyun
(Teas*, the source of the Koja Ba,
where a large body of water bursts
forth from both sides of the valley.
The river rushes off through a narrow
gorge, artificially widened, and is here
80 ft deep, and full of fish. In this
wild spot there was a sanctuary to
Apollo, and there are still three
imeriptions on the rock ( YasiH
Kayo). 1 } hrs. lower down, the Koja
8u is crossed by a stone bridge,
Eyiler Keupri , to
Chandir (4 hrs.), in the Pambuk
Ova , whence a path leads across the
Ah Su, anct Cettrm , and up the
Balanijc Dere in 5} hrs. to Cromna
(p. 152). The track to Adalia is
rough and hilly, and runs through
the Kirk - gechid Pass, a narrow,
winding, stony ravine between high
hills. The stream, which is a roaring
torrent in winter, is Cordod many
times. Boon after leaving the moun-
tains we reach the small village of
Torumlar or Hajji Omari (9 hrs.),
oh the Ghikin Ova (p. 158). About
I hr. from the village the Ak Su is
forded, and 2} hrs. rarther the track
leaves the valley by a ravine, in
which are remains of an old paved
road and an' aqueduct that carried
water to Pertre. Continuing over
level ground, the Duden Su (p. 128)
is crossed by a stone bridge, and the
road enters the extensive gardens of
Adalia (6$ hrs.). 8ee Rte. 42.
ROUTE 61.
BEY-8HEHR~~I8AURA — KARAMAN, .
RM.
Setdl-flbehr 6
Ula-bonsr (Jfcaura) . iff
Mmmm ... 84
Esrsmso (/sranda) 8
After leaving Bey-shehr, the road
runs down the valley of the river,
Bey-shehr Su, that drains the lake,
to
Beidi-shehr (6 hrs.), a town noted
foT its good climate, but containing no
traoe of antiquity. It then passes to
the N. of the 8ogkla GW, anct.
TroaitU , through Kara-curen and
Ak-kilisse, in both of which are in-
scriptions . The lake, into which the
Bey-shehr Su pours its water, occasion-
ally disappears. When the mouth of
the “ dudon,” near Arvan, is open the
water rushes down it, and the lake
dries up ; but when the “ duden ” is
dosed tne water runs off by the Char -
tkenbe Su , into the marshy fakes on the
Konia plain. The rood continues
through ttristat (10 hrs.), the chief
town of the Boz-kir Kata, at which
the ore from the lead mines to the 8.
was smelted. There are several in-
scriptions, and in the bridge a bas-
relief, representing a spirited hunting
scene.
Digitized by L^ooQle
156
Route 62 . — Khatin Serov,.
Ulu-bunar (2J hn.) f a double village .
in a rough country at the foot of
Anar D., whence it is 20 min. steep
climb to the N.W. gate of Isaura
Fatal, now called Zengibar Kalesi.
Isaura was wealthy, populous, and.
well fortified. When besieged by
Perdiccas the people set fire to the
city, and destroyed themselves and
all they possessed. It was rebuilt,
and having become a stronghold of
the Oilician pirates, was destroyed by
Servilius Iaauricus. It was after-
wards ceded by the Romans to
Amyntas of Galatia, who built a new
Isaura out of the ruins of the old. In
the 3rd centy. a.d. Isaura was the
residence of the rival Emperor Tre-
bollianus. Outside the N.W. gate
are several rock-tombs ornamented
with eagles and lions, and one repre-
senting the facade of a temple. On
the stones of the gate are the arms of
Isaura — a sword and shield, cuirass,
greaves, and helmet The town is
built on the top of a hill, and there
is a magnificent Wow from it in ull
directions. Above the gate, m a
saddle between two peaks, are the
remains of the Stoa ; and immediately
E. of it a fine arched gateway, with a
cross on the keystone, and an inscrip-
tion of Hadrian. E. of this are the
ruins of a church, still called Monastir.
8. of the Stoa, on an eminence, is a
large building, with a tower, the walls
of whioh equal those of Assos. The
quarries from which the building
material was obtained are inside the
walls. Below the 8.E. gate is a
fine spring. Traditions still exist of
the plundering propensities of the
Isaurians.
From Ulu-bunar the road passes
through HajjUar {Inscrip$.) t and then
runs over broken ground, covered with
oak scrub and juniper to Elmasen
(8} hrs.), whence Rte. 52 is followed
to Karaman (8 hrs.).
ROUTE 62.
KONIA— KARAM AM-EREOL |—
TAR8U8— MERSINA*
HRS.
Kbatln 8eral (Lystra) • *•. •
Elmasea . • • . . •
Kass*b* (Pyrgot) . .. '. 3|
Ksrtmsn ( Laranda ) . ► H
81a Bir KuJsm (Barata) * . 6
Ambsnruai ( Caetdbala ) . . 1
Eregll (Cvbietra-HeracUa). •
Bounti Kbfta ( Podandu * ) . .. 17*
Qnlek Boghss Sutton . . 13
Tarsus snd Martins, by Rail.
An araba-road all the way. The
road runs due S. for 3} hrs. to i laiyat,
a miserable village on the E. slope
of the low hills which bound the
plains. Crossing these by the 0 halam
Bel, a fountain is passed, into * which
is built a Latin inscription. K hatin
Borai is now scon in the plain In jIow ;
the road passes through a gravi >yard
full of inscription* and cross es a
bridge into which others are built , just
outside the village.
Khatin Serai, Lystra (6 hr* \ a
village of some consequence. Lj r stra
was a Roman Colony and the pi 'ace
where 8. Paul healed the impish *nt
man, and with 8. Barnabas was wi »r-
shipped as a god (Acts xiv.). H »©
actual site is a low stone-strewn mourn i
20 min. N.W. of the village ; near il '•
are the ruins of a small church with
a spring issuing underneath. Littl*
remains tit ilia, but in the village are*
many inscriptions, several in Latin : a in
inscription, found beside the mound,,
enabled Prof. Sterrett, who visited the
place in 1884, to identify it with
Lystra. The first bishop of Lystra is
said to have been Artemas, one of the
Seventy Disciples.
[At Kilter a, about 2} hrs. 8. of
Khatin Serai, are numerous rock-hewn
houses, chapels, and tombs. Some of
the tombs are small monolithic mor-
tuary chapels, baying ope or three-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 52. — ( ludelimn — Karaman. J57
apses; and there is a Very beautiful
cruciform tomb-chapel in good preser-
vation. The graves are excavated in
the floors. In the apse of one tomb is
a painting of Christ j
From Khatin Serai the road pro-
ceeds 8.B. to Kavak (1} hrs A in the
graveyard of which is a milestone,
inscribed M Oolonia Lystrensium.” The
best water comes from a well 10 min.
'8. of the village on the road to Dinorna.
Hence a good araba-road leads S.E.
by Elgarun to a group of villages at
the N.W. end of the karaman plain,
the principal of which are Kara-
nentr and Blmasen (7} hrs.). The
flne peak which rises S.E. of these
villages is variously called Hajji Baba
or Masallah D. ; in the distance due
E. is seen the isolated mass of Kara
D. , and beyond it, if the weather bo
clear, tho snow-streaked heights of
the Bulgar and Ala Daghs in the
main chain of Taurus. Two miles
E. of Elmasen, in the plain, is the
mound of
Ondelissin, wliioh probably marks
the site of the Roman Derbe, visited
by 81 Paul in a.d. 46. The iden-
tification is not quite certain; but
it is dear from a comparison of
ancient authorities that the later Derbe
lay in this plain at the foot of Hajji
Baba D., and of all the possible sites
this at Gudelissin shows most
traoes of a oity of tho Roman period.
The ruined structures on the mound
are modern, but quantities . of pot-
sherds, squared stone and architectural
fragments, bear witness to earlier
inhabitation. Many of the materials
of which the city was composed and
many inscriptions have been carried
to the half-deserted village of Lotia
or Zo§ to, lying to the east and to
. Elmasen on the west The earliest
dty of Derbe must be looked for in
the mountain on some site at present
Unknown; about the middle of the
first century B.a it was the residence
of a robber chief. Antipater, who also
possessed Laranda {Karaman). Ho
was slain and Dcrbo taken by
Amyntas, King of Galatia, at whose
death it passed to Borne, and was
probably transferred to a site in the
plain. It was at times incorporated
in the eleventh strategia of Cappadocia,
but was finally included in Lycaonia.
The road passes Loeta (rt); and
Boeeola, where is a ruined Se^jUk
khkn ; and so to
Xassaba (3| hrsA a half deserted
town with crumbling walls of the
late Bysantine period; here is a
kahveh and small oazir. This pictur-
esque town probably represents Pyrgoe,
passed by Frederick Barbarossa on
May 29, 1190, on his march south-
wards to the sea. Before the famine
of 1878-4 it was a plaoe of some im-
portance. A high road comes direct
ovor the plain from Konia to Kossaba
in 15 hrs., passing by Chumra and
Ali Bey Keui. After passing Hisra,
tho site of the Lycaonian dty Hittra ,
whioh has nothing of interest to show,
we reach
Karaman (4} hrs.), the and La-
randa (a name still in uso among tho
Christian inhabitants). The bazkr is
well supplied; part of it was burnt
down in J uly, 1 890. The headquarters
of the Rlgie for a large district is
fixed here. There are two khans ;
that opposite the KonaJc being the best.
The only manufactures are coarse
cotton and woollen stuffs ; but hides,
wool, and acorns used in dyeing arc
sent to the neighbourhood of 8myrna.
Laranda was probably, like Isaura,
a northern stronghold of the Oilician
pirates, against whom Romo sent P.
Servilius Isaurions in b.o. 79. A few
years later it belonged to the robber.
Antipater of Derbe, from whom it
was taken by Amyntas of Galatia.
On his death it passed to Rome, and
shared the lot of Dcrbo. It was the
capital of a Turkish kingdom, whioh
lasted from the time of the partition
of the dominions of the Seljdk Sultans
of Iconium until 1472, when all
Karaman ia was reduced to subjection
by the Osmanli Sultan Muhammad II.
During this period its Emirs played a
considerable part in history, oppress-
Digitized by L^ooQle
158
Route 52.— Eregli*
ing the kingdom of Lesser Armenia
and fighting with the* Lusignan
princes of Cyprus and the Knights of
Rhodes for the possession of Qorrhigo
(Cory cus) and other strong places on
the Oilician coast Karaman derives
its name from Karaman, whose grand-
son, Mahmfld, on the death of Saltan
Ala-ed-din III., about the year 1807,
made himself master of Ioonium,
Cilicia, Pamphylia, Lycaonia, and of
a large portion of Phrygia and
Cappadocia. The Osman 1 is, upon
obtaining possession of Karaman,
subdivided it into Kharij the outer,
and Ichili the interior country ;
Iconium, the former Seljflk capital,
became the seat of the Osmanli
pashalik ; and the deoline of the town
of Karaman may be dated from that
period.
Of ancient Laranda nothing re-
mains, but of mediaeval Karaman
there are some notable relics. The
castle west of the town is well worth
a visit, being one of the best preserved
in Asia Minor ; tho foundations
appear to be Byzantine, but tho
greater part of the towers and walls
are of the time of the Emirs, and
resemble in construction the Venetian
buildings of Cyprus. Two mosques,
one south, the other at the west end
of the town, are fine ; but nothing in
Karaman, and hardly anything in
Turkey, equals in beauty the ruins
of a medre$$e or college, which is
situated S. of the main street just
west of the bazftr. The outer gate
affords one of tho finest examples of
marble “ stalagmitic ” work in Asia
Minor. A door in the interior is also
worth examination.
Hence a road made by Said Pasha,
who was governor of Konia till 1887,
strikes across the Taurus to Selefke :
hone roads also branch to Mut and
Ermenek (Rtes. 61, 62).
From Karaman, tho direct road
goes by Ambararassi to Eregli ; but
a detour may be made to visit Bin Bir
Kilisse, or lladen Shehr (5 lire.), on
the N.B. flanks of Kara D., where are
the very interesting rem ains of Barata.
The “ Thousand and Ome Churches ”
are really about a score in number;
some are in very fair preservation,
and a historical study of them by a
competent authority on Byzantine
architecture is much required. They
aro built of rod and grey trachyte,
and one, an octagonal church, is par-
ticularly deserving of notice. There
are also tombs, sarcophagi, and cis-
terns. A saint John, who lived many
years at the bottom of a well, was
connected with Barata and Cybistra.
The direct road is rejoined at Akohe-
shehr (5 lire.), which has a large
mosque built by Karaman, partly out
of the ruins of a church. Thence it
runs on to
Ambararassi (2 lire.), where is the
site of au ancient town, probably Cus-
tabala , with somo inscriptions, and
a very large and richly sculptured
marble sarcophagus, which is Duried
iu the ground. Continuing along the
S. side of Ah Oeul and passing the
“ Duden,” by which the flood waters
of the lake escape, wo reach
Eregli, Gybistra-Ueraclea (6 hre.).
The baz&i: is fair; there is a large
kh&n with a good room over the door-
way. Nearly all the houses are built
of sun-dried bricks, and stand in
gardens watered by the abundant
stream whioh flows down from Iyriz.
All kinds of fruit are plentiful in
season. No antiquities of interest
As Cybistra, this town was important
under tho semi-independent Cappa-
docian kings. It is mentioned in
Cicero’s correspondence. It was much
harried by the Arab invaders, being
captured in 805 by Harfin er-Rashtd,
and in 832 by el-Mamfln; but it
remained in Byzantine hands up to
the 11th century, in whioh it becamo
a metropolis.
[No one who visits Eregli should
fail to make an excursion to Ivris
(S bra.), a village lying due S. on
the lowest spur of the Bulgar D.
(Taurus). It is possible also to see
Ivriz, and then rejoin tho high road
to the Cilician Gates, viil Zanapa
and Tdn, at a point a few miles
L
Digitized by L^ooQle
169
Route 62 . — Ivrin.
E. of Eregli. Ivriz is remarkable In 1840, Her. E. J. Devil in 1875, and
alike for its natural beauty and for Sir 0. Wilson and Prof. W. M. Bamsey
the wonderful “ Hittite n sculpture, in 1882, and photographed by Mr.
find n*en by a 8wode named Otter, in Hogarth in 1890 and Mrs. Ramsay in
the early j»art of the last century; 1891. The relief shows a god, simply
revisited and drawn by M^jor Fischer attired, but wearing a high cap, deco-
MOHUMKHT IT fTBflL
rated with horns, presenting to a king
or priest (probably of Tyana), the fruits
of the earth, symbolised by grapes
and corn. Near the head of the god,
behind the priest, and below the sculp-
ture, are three legends in 44 Hittite "
characters, not yet certainly inter-
preted. Tho lowest legend is often
concealed by the waters of the mill ,
stream which flows at the foot of the
rock. Many points are noticeable;
the expression of the god, the detail
of his hair and beard, the curiously
ill-drawn left arm of the priest, the
strange object, perhaps part of a
plough, between tho legs of the god
Digitized by
Google
160
Route 52 . — TJlukishla — Quick Boghaz.
the general resemblance to Assyrian Taurus. 8 m. down the course of
art, and the fine pictorial effect of the this stream a long u Hittite ” inscrip-
soulpture as a whole. This “ written tion was discovered in 1876, high up
rook ” is situated on the left bank of on the left bank, above Alt Khoja
a stream which issues suddenly from Tokar K. This was first copied by
the ground a few yards higher up. Messrs. Hogarth and Headlam in 1890.
It is at the farthest oud of the Yillugu Henoe wo may follow the stream down
from that at which a visitor from a gorge of marvellous beauty to Ali
Eregli would enter, and is nearly Khoja and rejoin the main road at
opposite the mosque. The gorge Chifte Khan (4 lira, from Bulgar
above it, the remarkable source of the Maden).]
river, and the luxuriant vegotation
which extends for soino miles down If the detour to Bulgur Miulen bo
its course, combine to make this one not made, the high road may lie fol-
of the most beautiful, as well as re- lowed from the cemetery, direct to
markable, spots in Asia Minor.] Chifte Khin (5 hra.) ; hero are pastur-
age, and a guard-house. Hence to
The araba-road to the CUician Tukhta Keupri (kahveh), 11 hrs., the
Gates , on which some care has been road is very bad (1890). Hero the
bestowed, passes S. of the Turkoman horse-road from Nigdeh comes in.
village of Bulaurluk , and entering the Some little distanoo from the road, 1.,
low hills which bound the plains runs are well-known hot springs, much fre-
through them to UlukUhla (9 hra.), quented for various diseases ; the spot
perhaps Faustinopolis , on the Roman is called Uija. Continuing to Bosanti
road from Tyana. Here is a deserted Kh&n, Podandus (34 hra.), the road,
khin, with mosque and bath rebuilt which traverses a fine defile, is very
by Ibrahim Pasha. Faustinopolis was good ; about half-way it crosses a
built by Marcus Aurelius, and uamed bridge, Ak Keupri , dose to the 1. side
after the Empress Faustina, who died of which, on the rt. bank of the
there. Its original name was Halala. stream, is a oclcbrated spring, Tattu
Near it was the Byzantine fortress Su. At Podandus Cyrus and his army
Loulon, called by the Arab historians encamped ; and the place is referred
the “ Bulwark of Tarsus, 0 which com- to as tho point of junction of the roads
manded the pass between tho Cilician by the Maurianum and Carydium
Gates and Tyana. This fortress is men- passes. Tho direct horse-road from
tioned as tho first point in the line of Kaisariyeh by the latter comes in 1.
beacon fires, by which news of an Arab immediately before reaching Botanii
invasion was telegraphed to Con- Khdn. The scenery here is very flue,
stantinople, and it frequently changed and continues to be so to the Gulek
hands during the wars between the Boghaz ; villages are very rare in this
Byzantines and the Arabs. Small district, but in summer nomad en-
kahvehs now become frequent, this campments are pitched every few miles
being tho great trade route of southern in the valleys, where milk, eggs, and
A. Minor. 14 hra. from Ululrishla,and fowls can bo obtained. Teklce is not
dose beneath tho castled peak of far from the head of the pass. Good
Loulon, is a roadside cemetery, in water is to be found on all sides. The
which are inscribed milestones, and lines thrown up by Ibrahim Pasha are
hero a road branches rt. to on open ground about 1 hr. before
reaching
[Bulgar Maden (3 hra. from tho
junction), where are the richest silver Gulek Boghaz (4 lira.). The famous
mines in A. Minor, at present im- pass known in ancient times as the
perfectly worked. Here is a bazAr Fylae CUiciae, or Cilician Gates, has
and a kaimak&m, who is also director witnessed the march of many armies :
of the mines. It lies immediately Cyrus tho Younger, Alexander the
under tho crags of tho main range of Great, Cicero, Hardu cr-Rashtd, and
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route* 63, 54 .—Kara-bunar.
Ibrahim Pasha, : led ' their forces
through it, and it was the scene of
constant forays in both directions
during the oenturies of warfare be-
tween the Brain tine emperors and
the Arab Buttons. Above it is tho
Arab fortress Sak&liba, or Assaka l iba,
“ Castle of the Sclavonian guards/’ In
the pass itself is an inscription of M.
Aurelius on an isolated rook L of the
road and an effaced Roman milestone
rt The araba-road to the railway
station at Ovlek Boghan Station, 3 m.
N. of Tarsus (9 hrs.), is excellent, and
passes through lovely sofcnery. Hence
to tarsus ana Xersina by Rte. 64.
ROUTE 63.
KONIA-KARA'BUNAr-'KRKQU.
I*rall . .
Kara-bunar .
Eregll ( Cybiitra )
HRS.
IS
• ,
This, the shortest route from Konia
to Eregli,is of great;geological interest
It runs over the dreary plain on whioh
there is little water; but the mirage
effects kre very beautiful, and the
Kara D. is always a fine object in the
riew.
Ismll (12 hrs.), a fcmall village pos-
sessing large flooks of sheep. 8} hrs.
further a low limestone ridge is crossed,
and a distant view is obtained of the
extinot orators beyond. .
Kara-bunar (9 hrs.). Hero are a
mosque built oy Sultan Selim, a
medresse in ruins, and saltpetre works.
The Saltpetre is obtained by washing
the soil In hot wkter and evaporating.
The traohvtio orators, of which there
are several, oommenoe about 14 m.
[TWksy.]
161
from the town, and the road runs past
them, keeping to the N. side of the
Ak Oeul (p. 158X to Kirlj KhSn , tn
ruins, BeJUik, ana
Bregli (9} hrs., Rte. 52).
, ROUTE 64.
kONlA— AK-8KRAI-NEV-8HKHR—
KAI8ARIYEH.
Obrak
Saltan Kbln • • •
Ak-aarai (Gdrtatrtn • Cbiottia)
Artkdait) • . .#
Sebne
Ksarr’*? : :
Kabartjah (Cnmama) . . u\
Leaving Konia the road skirts the
base of the hills, and then strikes
across the plain ; in summer there is
a very gooa araba track, but much of
the plain is marshy in winter. This
great plain, the M Axylon ” of tho
Greeks, extends S. to the Taurus, and
N. to the Haimane and to the Phry-
gian mountains. Contranr to general
belief it is not a desert, being fertile
where cultivated, fairly supplied with
deep wells, and affording in many
{ >laoes good pasture; nor is it very
evel, being broken by the Bon D. and
other hills. Villages are numerous,
but not all inhabited in winter and
summer alike, for a village frequently
possesses land at some distant spot,
whither it resorts at harvest timo.
The north winds swoop with stoat
force over the plains, and the sir on
the whole is fresh and invigorating
even in summer, whilst tho nights are
oooL Curious mirage effects are often
seen in the heat of the day. Archi-
tectural remains and ' inneriptionn,
mainly of the later, Roman and
Digitized by
Google
162
Bmk 64 ^Qbruk — Virpn-shehr.
Byzantine periods, ooour in ; m&ny Saturday), well supplied with fruits iq
villages, e.g., Suarek and Ag-euren, the season. Its population is com-
tbe site of Savatra. posed of Turks and Armenians. In
the open part of the baz&r is a fine
Passing the village of Zeivcjik Sclj&k mosque, restored, and west of
f water) and several juinod khans (lie bazilr are ruins of another. A
(water not good at any), we roach few uninteresting inscriptions have
Obruk (9 lira.). Here is a little lake boon discovered here, but no other re-
90 ft. below the level of the plains, mains of Archelais seem to exist,
said to boil and be undrinkable for There is a fair kli&n nearly opposite
two weeks in December. Hence the the doorway of the great mosque,
road proceeds through Ortakuyu , Bak-
haralch , and Erdodu , to Snltan Khln [From Ak-serai (o Koch-hiuar is
(8 hrs.), a magnificent ruined khdn of 1 6 nrs., partly following the oourse of
the best Seljftk period. The western the Beyaz Su, and partly the shore of
court was used for the entertainment the Tux Oeul. The village is situated
of travellers, the eastern boing without at the mouth of a ravine, about 200 ft
ornament, and intended for stabling, above the pluin, and 2 hrs. from the
Its massive aisles supported on shores of the great salt marsh, anct
columns were evidently imitated from Tattaea Bolus, in the centre of tho
the basilica. Tho great gateway of tho Anatolian plateau. The marsh is
west court is one of the most splendid 60-70 ro. in circumference, and the
in Turkey, built of varied marbles water is so salt that no fish can live
and enriched with exquisite “ stulug- in it Hie remains of a causeway,
initio " ' ornamentation. Arabio in- built aorues a branch of it by Selim 1 ,
scriptions over tlio door give the effect ore nearly hid under an incrustation
of architectural embellishment, and of salt; and at tlio sjxit whore the
record that the* kli&n was built in road reaches the shore the bed of the
a.d. 1277. A small modern village, marsh consists of a crust of solid salt,
utmost deserted in summer, clusters The salt is coll coted at several places
round the E. and 8. sides of tho round the lake,
great ruin ; good water and pasturage. Two araba-roads lead from Ak-terai
Thence the road continues over the to Niadeh (2 days). • One runs 8. of
plain, passing a ruined kli&n half way, the Hassan D. by Bor ; the other N.
and wells and tanks (brackish) at of the sanie ringe by Agaohli K.,
intervals. The fine volcanic cone of Quljuk, and Hassa K. (p. 168). On
Hasson D. is conspicuous to the right the former, 6 hrs. from Ak-serai, are
of Ak-sorui. An hour from the town the interesting ruins of
Arotolu is passod 1., and tho road is
carried in plaoes over raised cause- Yiran-thahr. Thoy are situated on
ways into a rocky platform, just above some
oopious streams, which form a long
Ak-serai (8 hrs.), on the site of and deep lake, out of which flows
Strabo*s Oanauira , refounded as Ar- a small river that joins the Beyax Su
ehelaix by Archelaus of Cappddpoia in (white river). The streets and houses
the latter half of 1st cent. e.o. Tho of a peat part of the town are still
Emperor Claudius made it a oolony ; standing ; the walls, in some places 20
hence it is generally referred to later or SO ft high, are composed of rough
ux.CoUmia, Under the Byzantine rule Cyclopean blocks without cement,
and the 8olj&k sultans of Konia it The walls of the acropolis can be dis-
was an important place. It lies at tinotly traced, besides pome curious
>he extreme edge of the great Plains, vaulted buildings of more regular
about 8000 ft. above the sea, amid iqaaonry. The tombs are very qumer-
luxuriant gardens. It is well watered, pus, gnd are {n the Hellenic style,
but has an unhealthy reputation. It There are also the ruins of 6 Byzan-
lms an indifferent baz&r (Friday and tine . churches, of ancient and rude
Digitized by
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'198
Route 55 . — 8elne^-Inje-+u.
construction, hat of much more reoont
date than the rest of tho town.]
It is 13 hrs. from Ak-serai to Nev-
shehr by the direot wd, running
through Agachli K. and Heieb; bat
it is better to mak6 a d&ovr by
Mm (4 hrs.X a Tillage situated in
a deep gorge. The elm on the B. is
4-500 ft high, and at its foot are
numerous sharp, natural, cones, like
those at Ujissa (p. 169), many of
which hare been excavated for dwell-
ings. The whole oliff is honey-combed
with chambers, chapels, passnges, and
tombs, story rising above story ; and
here and there small temple fagado*
may be seen on the face of the diff.
People still live and die in these rook-
dwellings. 200 ft above the bed of the
valley. At Ikktara, on the other side
of the river, about ) m. 8. of Selme,
there are more rock-hewn dwellings,
and here the temple facades of the
tombs in the face of the cliff are very
conspicuous. A short distance E. tho
river gushes out at the foot of tho
cliff From 8elme it is 5 hrs. to
Kufulu Tatlar by an easy road which
runs through AlrytU, and passes 8or-
anrn (rib and Nenlxi (t) ; and thence
it is 2) hrs. over the lludak Ova to
Xslsgob, MaJaeopia (7| hrs., n. 169).
From this olace It is 6 hrs., oy the
Boghanli Uere (p. 168X to ueveli
Kara-hissar, and thenco 12 hrs. by
Bte. 55 to Kaisariyeh ; or Rte. 58 may
be followed to Kev-shahr (5 hrs.),
lajs-stt (8J hrs.X and
Kaisariyeh (6 hrs., see p. 50).
* *
ROUTE 55’
KAISARIYEH-tUOOKH-BOft—
SRKOU.
liOna S
D*t«U Kara-hJmsr . S
NUrfah . .IS
Bor S#
Rreftl (CjfMrm) . .IS
Two mads lead from Kaisariyeh to
Inje-eu : one, 6 hrs., makes a d/tour
N. to avoid the marshes at the foot of
Argaeus, and crosses the Kara Su by
a bridge (p. 56); the other, 5 hrs.,
which is often impassable in winter
passes between Yilanli D. and Ar-
gaeus, and hugs the base of the latter
modntain.
Inje-eu (6 hrs.X a large picturesque
village, built in tho bottom ami on
the rides of a small valley. The ap-
proach to it is marked by deep ruts
worn in the boft rock by the constant
passage of arabss and animals. Them
is a mixed population (Moslems,
Greeks, and Armenians), and a large
community of Armenian Protestants.
We now cross to a broad plain, whence
fine views are obtained of Argaeus,
and the high peaks of Ala D. The
greater part of this plain is under
water In winter, but is dry, and in
places swampy in summer. The road
passes a guard-house half way, and
keeping to the W. edge of the plain
enters the gardens of
Bareli Xark-kissar (6 hrs.X the scat
of a mudir, with a small baxkr, and
kahveh. An enormous tract of orchards
and vineyards rcnchos far out towards
the marshes. This is a good point
from which to visit the rock dwellings
and chapels of Soghanli Dere (Rte.
58X J hr. W. is situated a striking
mediseval castle on a lofty two-peaked
hill; \t is now called ZengibarKalmi,
and has been (probably not correctly)
m2'"
Digitized by L^ooQle
164
Route 55*~Nigdeh.
identified with Nora, where Eumenes
defied Antigonus in 320 b.o.
The poet-road now makee a con-
siderable ddtour , but a mule path*
diverges outaido the town and leads
obliquely up the hill-sides, and over
a well-defined gap to Arablu (8 lira.),
below which it rejoins the post-road,
which then runs over a high windy
plateau, without actually touching a
single village, to Nigdeh. This great
road is very good and much used by
arabas. 8 lire, from Arablu it leaves,
rt., Midi (p. 168), a Greek village,
and 8 hre. further it skirts, 1., 8am-
mandcrc, a mixed village. Hence, a
short cut leads into the post-road at a
point near Anduval, 1} lire, from Nig-
aeli. An inscribed “Hittite” stone
whs discovered here, in 1890, by Prof.
W. M. Ramsay, let into the floor of
tho church ; it had been , brought
probably from Tyaua ( Kisli-hissar ).
At Sski Andaval, near the post-road,
are the ruins of Andabalis standing
on a small spur at the head of the
brood fertile valley that extends past
Nigdeh to Bor. Here are interesting
remains of an early church, dedicated
to S. Constantine ; and the rich lands
below probably formed part of a
Roman imperial estate, variously
called Bragai, Brizes, or Villa Pal-
mati.
Nigdeh (9 hre.), alt. 8900 ft., a large
town with an important baz&r and fivo
or six khftns. Little is known of its
history, but after the full of the Seljftk
Empire, it was apparently the oentre
of a petty state, tributary to the Mon-
gols, which was not finally incorpo-
rated in the Osmanli Empire until
tho 15th cont. Iu 1460 it was fortified
by a Here Boy, Ishak Pasha. Nigdeh
consists of an old town, standing at
the end of a spur of soft volcanic rock,
and of a large suburb on the W., which
is almost entirely inhabited by Greeks.
In the old town are the remains of
the citadel , the lower part old; a
mosque, built by Ala-ed-dm the Great
in 1228, which has a very fine doorway
— the heads of two women appear in
the ornament, and the gargoyles have
quaint human heads; the “ white”
medresse, built by the same Sultan,
has a large and very beautifully orna-
mented portal ; the mosques of Sunkur
Bey and Hassan Chelebi; Pasha
Jam i* ; the Greek cathedral ; the resi-
dence of the Bishop of Ioonium ; and
a fountain, dated 1446. The most
remarkable buildiug, and the most
beautiful of its class in Anatolia, is
the Tomb of Havanda , in a recess in
the hill between the old and new
Quarters. Havnnda, according to local
tradition, was the wife of Ala-ed-din,
but the date on the tomb, a.h. 745
(1344), is a century later than his
reign. This interesting monument is
octagonal in plan, but at about three-
fourths of its height its form changes
to that of a sixteen-sided figure, with
fine w stalactitic ” ornament beneath
the projecting angles. The slender
columns at the angles are carved
with delicate tracery, and the sides
of the octagou are richly ornamented.
Amongst the ornaments are two eagles
with crowned female heads, winged
figures with human heads, animals,
Ac. Nearly . every stone bears a
mason's mark. Near this tomb is a
smaller one, also richly ornamented,
and apparently of the same date.
There are large Greek, small Arme-
nian, and smaller Armenian Protestant
communities. The head-dress of the
Greek women, who wear their hair in
long plaits kept apart by a broad band,
from which gold coins hang down, is
interesting. Several of the villages,
on the lower slopes of the Melendis IX,
near Nigdeh, are either wholly or
partially Greek, and have well-built
churches and houses. At Fertek ,
which supplies most of the wine and
spirit sellers to the Stambfll Casinos,
tlicro is said to bo an underground
town, in which the villagers took
refuge during the Egyptian war. On
leaving Nigdeh, the road passes
through a deep cutting in tho rock,
and near a hot spring, and then runs
for } hr. through walled gardens.
Bor (2} hre.), alt. 3650 ft., the modern
representative of Tyaua, whose actual
site lies, however, 3 m. to the 8. at
Kizli-hissar. Bor has a ruinous but
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 56. — Kixli-hmar.
165 1
not ill-supplied bas&r. There it a
large Christian population. The two
kh&ns are very old and dirty. Here
may be seen many architectural frag-
ments and inscriptions from the
Roman Tyana. A remarkable relic of
the earlier or 44 Hittite ” Tyana, an in-
scribed stone with the head of a king
upon it, was found in a house here in
1882 by. Prof. W. M. Ramsay. It
was bought by the English Expedi-
tion of 1890, conveyed to Nigdeh, and
presented to the Sultan. It is now in
the Imperial Museum in Stambftl.
The lower half, on which was the body
of the king and more 44 Hittite h
symbols, was seen later in a garden
near Bor by the samo expedition, but
not purchased. Near the cemetery on
the 1. bank of the river is the moeque of
Keur Ismail with a very beautifully
proportioned minaret Th,@ moeque of
Sheikh Ilfas in the same Quarter has
a fine marble pulpit
From Bor a good, but not made,
oraba- track leads directly to Eregli
in 12 hra. In 8 hrs.it passes a ehiftlik,
rt. ; In 6 hra. a well of indifferent
water ; in 7} hra. Atitieh Keui, J hr. 1. ;
and in 9 hrs. Bulgurluk, a Turcoman
village, a few minutes to l. By
making a short dMour the remarkable
springs of Rebut, 7 m. N. of Eregli,
can bs visited. A low ridge, con-
sisting Of calcareous and gypseous
beds, deposited by the springs in
former times, marks their position on
the plain. The springs S. of the ridge
are now dry, but several issue from
craoks in the ground on its N. side.
Some deposit pure salt round their
orifices, others pure sulphur, and others
again sulphate of lime or gypsum.
Some of the springs are cold, others,
from which large quantities of gas
escape, nearly 100° Ft • At the E. loot .
of the ridge is a fine spring of sweet
water. The plain is in itself unin-
teresting, very dusty, mid diversified
only by coarse herbage, and the count-
less burrows of a kind of lemming; but
the ring of mountains is very impres-
sive; on the N., the double-coned
voloano of the Haeean Dagh ; on the
E, the long jagged range of Ala
Dagh, towering over the low hills in .
the foreground; and 8., the main
wall of Taurus, here called Bulgar
Dagh.
Eregli (12 hra.). 8oo Rte. 52.
ROUTE 56.
KAI8ARIYEH TO MKR8INA, BY
NIQDEH.
i nu.
Nigdeh, by Rte. U . . .34
Klslt-bisaer (Trnna) 3
TekhU Keaprf ... Si
Golek Boshes Station, by Rte. 53 15
Mertioa, by Reil.
From Kaisarlyeh by Rte. 55 to
Nigdeh (24 hra.), and thence 8.W.,
leaving Bor to the rt, to
fcisli-hissar, Tyana (8 hra.), the
Dwana of Assyrian records, the Dana
of Xenophon, the chief town, under
Archelaus and the Romans, of one of
tho prefectures of Cappadocia, an<L
under Valens, the capital of the second
Cappadocia, and the see of a metro-
politan. It was captured by Harftn
er-Rashld in a.d. 805, and by the
Sejj (Iks about 1078. The town is built
partly on a mound in tho middlo of
the plain, agreeing with the descrip-
tion of Strabo, who says that Tyana
was built on the mound of Semiramis.
An aqueduct, extending for several
miles over the plain, conveyed water
to the summit or the hill. This aque-
duct is of greyish-white limestone,
supported on lofty but light and ele-
gant arches, believed to be of very
ancient construction. The massive
foundations of soveral large edifices
are seen in different parts of the
Digitized by
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166
Route 67 . — Eneghil.
town ; and ' one handsome marble
column still stands erect. All these
buildings, which are mostly Roman,
are ascribed by the natives to Nim-
rod. In the low ground N.E. of
the mound was found the Bor stone,
and probably that of Andaval too;
and few sites would better repay ex-
cavation. Great quantities of salt-
petre are manufactured here, tho
surrounding country being impreg-
nated with nitre. A very singular
lakelet in the plain, 2 m. S. of tho
town, answers to the description of tho
fountain sacred to Jupiter Asbamaeus.
This pond is about 80 or 40 ft. in
diameter. Tho water, which is turbid
and brackish, appears to be boiling up
all over, but particularly in the centre,
where a violent jet rises, nearly 1} ft.
in diameter, with considerable noise.
Notwithstanding this, the lake never
overflows; nor does any stream issue
from it, though the ground round it
is perfectly nut. There is a slight
smell of sulphuretted hydrogen gas
round it, and it is probablo that the
jet in the centre of the pool is partly
caused by the escape of a largo
quantity of gas.
From Tyanu the rood runs for 1 hr.
over the plain to Paraony and then,
after an easy ascent of 2 hrs., crosses
the dividing ridge, 5450 ft., near an
old hill fort. The view from this •
point, a perfect panorama, is one of
tho finest iu A. Minor. Ilenoo the
road descends, passing Imrahor (L),
and the ruius of Ourgt KaUh, on a
high hill (L), to
Bashmakji (4J hrs.), alt. 4030 ft,
situated on a hill between two streams.
At the foot of the hill are considerable
ruins, which were supposed to be those
of Faustinopolis, before the discovery
of a Roman milestone showed that
the road of the Itineraries ran by
Ulukishla (p. 168). The road now
descends, partly along the bed of a
rocky ravine, above which the course
of the ancient road, well laid out, and
in many places cut out of the rock, is
clearly visible. At Takhta Kaupri
(5 hrs.), alt. 2800 ft, it joins the road
from Mregli, and follows Rte. 52, to
Qulek Boghat Station (15 hrs.), and
Xersina (p. 184).
ROUTE 57.
KAI8ARIYEH TO MER8INA, BY BERE-
KETLI MADEN.
Areblu, by Bte. 66 . .
Eneghil .
Bereketll Maden
Bozantl Khan ( Podandut )
Qulek Boghti Station
Merabi*, by Rail.
HUS.
16
3
•t
12
13
This road is uneoualled in Asia
Minor for grandeur of scenery.
From Kaieariyeh to Arablu (15 hrs.),
by Rte. 55. Here the road leaves that
to Nigdeh, and proceeds, 1., in 1 hr. to
Qordelet. About } hr. 8.E. is a late
site with rifled tombs of no interest
Ene g hi l (8 hrs.), the principal vil-
lage of the district ; the oaz&r is poor.
A single column of Roman period
stands N. of tho villago to bear wit*
ness to ancient iuhabitution. Thence,
in } hr., the track leads E. of Fercnk, s
prettily situated village, and proceeds
due S., down a well-defined valley,
passing in 1 hr. BeuyUk-bunar , and in
another hour Kavak-tepe, where is a
large and hospitable chiftlik. Tho
road now climbs steeply for 1) hrs. to
the watershed, 4400 ft. ; the water on
the N. flows to the marsh below Ar-
gaeus, that on the 8. to the Medi-
terranean. The view, looking south,
is very grand. On L the precipice
of Ala Dagh; rt. a mass of moun-
tains backed by the snowy tops of
the Bulgar Dagh; in front a long
funnel leading due 8. towards the
Cilici&n Gates. [By turning off 1.,
Digitized by Tooele
Route 58 . — Bereketli Modem .
167
just before reaching thfe head of great poet-road from Nigdeh close
the pass, the gorge of Bogha* to Bdeanti thin (12 hrs.). Hence
Made n may be visited (11 hre. oil the Bte. 52 is followed to QuUk Bogha*
road). Here a stream issuing from
road). Here a stream issuing from
the main mass of the Ala Dagh
forces its Way through a gorge of
great grandeur. Just inside the
“gates” are disused silver workings,
guarded by a ruined tower. By
following the stream past Karabunar
Yaila the high road may be struck:
near a fountain (1 hr.), a short dis-.
tance beyond which a road branches;
rt to Bereketli Maden.] } hr. S.of
the pass; known as Gafydium in By-
zantine times, is Maden Bediei , and
| hr. furthor a road runs off rt to
brs. off the Bte. 52 is followed to
uing from Station (18 hrs.), and
Bogha*
MSrtinA (p. 184>
BerekaUi Maden (6} hrs.), alt
8500 ft, the principal placo of the
district It possesses a good bazftr
and hahveh, is a B^gie centre and sdat
of a mudtr , and has some 5000 inhabi-
tants, of whom a large proportion are
(Jliristians. It is surrounded by gar-
dens, and enjoys good water and
climate. Hie view looking across to
the Ala Dagh is very grand. As its
name implies, it used to be a mining
centre, but the workings are now dis- .
used. No antiquities exist hero.
In 1 hr. the main road is rejoined.
Here a gorge of great beauty is en-
tered, and for 6 hrs. the scenery is
very fine. At every two or three miles,
as far as the Ciliclan Gates, are small •
kahvehs, testifying to the great horse :
and camel traffic which passes down
the road. There are no villages on
tho road, but Yurnk encampments are
frequent all down the course of the
stream. 4 hrs. from Bereketli Maden
is a mill with shade and good water,
and at 6 hrs. a smithy, where the
stream bends away to 1., and cuts
its way through a deep cafton to
join the Sihiln. The road leases it:
and keeps due 8. over a broken :
country of muoh beauty passing
FundukUt a Turkish translation of
Oarydium. The road, though not a
made chauete, is good and easy to find.
Abundant fountains exist : at the
kahvehs. At last the edge of a deep
valley is reached, and the road winds
down to the water, and rejoins the
HOUTE 68.
THE TROGLODYTE MONUMENTS
OF OAPPADOOIA.
Kaiatrlreh (Uuiami).
Devell fciirt-htoar, by Rte,
Mtall, by 8ocb*nlI Here .
Hue Seal (Sturtma)
Gel vert (Carbaia) .
, Melegob (Malmcopia)
Nev-stahr .
Urgub i
liite-eii . ..
K*ia*rlyeb . . .. .
The volcanic district which lies
between ML Argaeus (E.) and Ak-
serai (W.) ; end Nigdeh (8.) and the
Hal ye (N.), is deeply interesting from
its connection with the lives of Basil
and Gregory Nasianzen, and Is re-
markable above all othors In A. Minor
for the number and variety of its*
rock-hewn chambers, chapels, and
tombs. Generally speaking it may
be described as a plateau of sort
volcanic rock,— tufa or ssh, which
can be easily out with simple instru-
ments, — covered by a stratum of hard
rook of greater or less thickness. Part
of the plateau, known as the Budak
Ota, is almost a dead level, and here
the rain and snow sink at onoe into
the porous rock, and form reservoirs
of water which are tapped by wells.
This is the region of subterranean
villages such as Haem K. and Melegob.
On ue edge of the plateau ravines
(dares) have been formed by the action
Digitized by
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168
Route &8.~Soghanli Dere
of the weather, and in the olifis of hissor (12 hrs.). and thenoe, partly
theee, often from 400 to 600 ft high, along the Nigdeh road, to
have been hewn dwellings, chapels,*
and tombs, — sometimes, as at Sogkanli Soghonli Dere (8 hrs.). Here the
Dere, in several stories connected by cliffs are honey-combed with countless
shafts and galleries. In oertain loca- excavations, and, os the valley narrows,
lities, notably at ZJjiua, Mackan , and the rock-hewn ohambora riao in stories,
Urgub, the rook bias been worn into — in one place in 16,— to their very
cones surmounted by disc-like caps summits. Some of the chambers have
of hard rock whioh have at once been broad openings and architectural
the cause of their formation and of fefodos, others small, like windows,
their preservation. The cones may In a few are arches supported by rich
be seen in all stages of development, pilasters, decorated oormcim elaborate
from the initial outlining of the cape, architraves, and oolumns all cut out
to the great cones, 40-100 ft high, of the solid rook. Here the chambers
which have been honey-combed with are in long suites, and there in stories
chambers, and those whioh, having connected by shafts up which niches
lost thoir protecting caps, are in in the rock are the only staircosos.
various stages of decay. Several of them are chapels, the walls
Of the age of these excavations of which were plastered and orna-
nothing is known ; they possibly range men ted with paintings of saints and
from the earliest period down to the scriptural or imaginary aoenes ; in a
{ »resent day. The subterranean vil- few the frescoes are still fresh. In
ages of the Budak Ova, with their some of the exoavations are oolum-
elaborate arrangements for conceal- baria. A few Greek loiters in red,
ment and defence, are probably very over the openings, ore the only in-
old ; whilst some of the houses in the scriptions. The ocoupants of’ this
existing villages ore quite modem, curious plaee appear to have hod but
The usual type of the letter is an one habitation for themselves, their
entrance cave at the foot of a oliff pigeons, and their dead; and the
whenoe a passage runs to the stables whole soene now presents a weird
with their rock-hewn , mangers, and a contrast between habitation and deso-
flight of steps leads up to the dwelling lation.
rooms excavated in the face of the
cliff with built walls, provided with Henoe the route runs to the small
windows, in front The soil of the Greek village of Xisli (54 hrs.), which
district is extremely productive, and has underground chambers and an
many of the deres, through which interesting subterranean ohurdi.
bright streams run, ore filled with Thence to Hassa K., Saeima (2 hrs.),
luxuriant gardens and orchards. The alt 4200 ft, on the level Budak Ova ,
people of this district are as interesting anct plain of Venae a. It is a group
os their dwellings. They are for the of mud and stone hovels, each of
most part Christians, speaking a bar- which has on underground story, cut
baroua Greek dialect, and they have out of the rook. These subterranean
Greek as well as Turkish names for ohambers are reached by winding
their villages. They belong, ap- passages, wide enough to admit a
patently, to the old Cappadocian horse, which can be dosed at will by
race, and the case with whioh they large solid discs of stone, that stand
could take refuge underground in in niches ready for use in case of
times of trouble, may perhaps explain alarm. The underground story oon-
the preservation of oertain typical gists of a large chamber with mangers
peculiarities. and bins, for grain, chopped straw,
do., for the animals, smaller chambers
The following tour includes most for the family, and a well Long
of the localities of internet From ' narrow passages, which can bo closed
Kaieariyek, by Rte. 66, to Dtvtli Kara- by stone discs, connect all the under-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Digitized by L^ooQle
Digitized by
169
Route 68.— JDtuMra — Ujisea.
ground houses. There is a large
modern church, evidently on the site
of an older one, which is dedicated to
8. Macrina. Beneath it is an under-
ground house, the well of which has
Become an u Ayasma.” There are also
churohes of the Virgin, and of 8.
George, 1 hr. E. c>f Hasm K. is GcuUik,
and IAmnae, a village mentioned by
Gregory Nazianzen.
The route now runs over the plain,
and, after passing Keutu K. or Path
lana , crosses a ridge, 5830 ft, to the
rioh voloanio plain, Mdendit Ova, in
which is Duvara (4 hrs.). Here it is
desirable to leavo the main road and
follow a rough mountain path over a
ridge, 5810 It, to tho well-preserved
ruins of a cruciform church, with an
aislo on its N. side, and the pictur-
esque village of 8ivri-his$ar (rock-
hewn dwellings and church), the home
of many of the bakdU of Btamb&L
Hence mere is a rough descent to
dslvere, or Kalvare, Carbala (2)
hrs.), alt 4510 ft, near which was
Ariantu*, the hereditary property of
Gregory of Nazianzus. It is a
Greek village with rook-hewn houses,
churches, and tombs; and it has a
church with relics of 8. Gregory. The
rock-dwellings at Selme and fkhlara
168) are about 1 hr. to the west
i easy road leads to
Banisi, Na*iOHgu$-Diooae$area (2|
lire.), alt 8950 ft, the birthplaoe of
8. Gregory. It is now a Moslem
village of wretched hovels grouped
round an artificial mound. There are
the tekke of Bikir Sultan, and an old
church now used as a mosque. 4 hrs.
W. from Nenizi is Mammatun* anct
Mamoamon, where is an old church,
containing relics, half of whioh is
used by the Christians and half by
the Moslems. An easy pass leads to
the Budak Ova, and the road then
runs past Tailor to tnvsnnsa, pro-
bably Venasa (8J hrs.), where there
was a sanctuary of Zeus. On a hill
near the village Prof. Ramsay found
a mutilated inscription relating to
this deity.
Xslsgdb, Malacopia (1 hr.), a:
Christian village on the plain, with
underground houses like those at
Hassa K. Here, however, 10 to 15 of
the houses have one deep well in
common. Near the village is an
ancient underground church, still
used, the approach to which is closed
by a stone disc. There is now a
slight rise to Insgi or Anakn (1) hrs.),
a thriving village with underground
chambers partly fallen in. } hr.
further the road leaves the plateau
and enters a ravine, falling towards
the Halys, in the cliffs of which aro
many excavations and the partly
rock-hewn villages of Kuvinjaltk and
Gorch . Lower down the ravine is
Bev-shehr, or Bsapolls (8} lire.),
all 8800 ft, near which must have
been Soanda. It is a flourishing
town, with large Christian com-
munities, commanded by a castle
built on a projecting promontory of
basalt [From Nev-shehr it is 4 hrs.
across a field of lava, and past the
troglodyte village of Alaja-tihchr (rt.)
to Tatlar, picturesquely situated on
the face of the rocks in a deep ravine.
Here are many rock-hown chapels
and tombs. In one of the chapels
Hamilton found, in 1887, a Greek
menologion, on parchment, of the 12th
or 18th cent ; and in some are
pictures of Byzantine saints. An
isolated cone in front of the cliff con- *
tains several chambers, in Stories, the
largest of which was a chapel. At
Bar and at Chat, respectively 1 and
1) hrs. from Nev-shehr, on the road
to Yarapsun, are houses, chapels, and
tombs excavated in oones, or in the
cliffs of the ravines.] Leaving Nev-
shehr, the road crosses the stream
and, climbing the rt bank, runs
towards a remarkable rock, honey-
combed with excavations, beneath
whioh is
Bjiasa(l*lirsA The village stands
on the edge or the plateau whence
there is an extraordinary view. In
the valleys beneath are many thousand
conical bills, in places isolated, in
plaoes so closely arranged that their
Digitized by
170 - IjUmte 69 . — Urgub. ^
bases touch each other, leaving only a 1
narrow path between them. In nearly
every one of these oones chambers
have been excavated, sometimes in-
several stories, and the entrances of •
some of them are arched, or cut so os ROUTE 69.
to represent the porticoes of temples. ■ '
Across the valley is the village of SMYRNA to ALEXANDRETTA, by
Maohan, Median * , an ancient bishop- uu.
ric, and tlie very centre of the oono 1 • ’
formations, and rock-bewn churches, Local lines of steamers run from
dwellings, and tombs. Here are Smyrna to Mersina, touching at several
several interesting churches with the of the islands, and at all important
Byzantine frescoes still on their walls ; coast towns. Some of the steamers of
in one is a picture of the crucifixion, the larger lines call at Chios and
Hence there is a road over the plateau Rhodes, whilst others proceed direct
to to Mersina. The course of the latter
is given here.
Urgnb (2 hrs.), a prosperous village After running down the Gulf of
built on the soft volcanic tufa. Here Smyrna, the shores of whioh present
also are many thousand excavations a charming panorama (p. 69), the
iu the cones and oliffs. Many of the steamer passes the headland of Kara
chapels and oratories have frescoes; Burun (Melaena) and enters the
in ono there is a picture of a martyr channel between the beautiful island
on u cross with angels ministering to of Chios and the mainland. On the
him ; and in auother of the dedication rt. is the island of Spalmatori, and L,
of a book or church to the Virgin. Goni, behind whioh is the Gulf of
Christ is alwuyB represented seated on Erythrae (p. 109) ; then rt. Kastro, the
a throne with his right hand raised, chief town of Chios, which suffered so
and the Gospel in his left hand. The severely from the earthquake of 1881 ;
throne is the bronze Byzantine chair, and 1. Chcshme, or Krmi, a favourite
supported by strange figures which summer resort of the Bmymiotes,
possibly represent demons or the evil which does a large trade in raisins
passions conquered by ChriBt The and fruit. The narrow waters between
road now lies through Karaja-eurtn, the two towns witnessed the destruo-
Kara-in, Boyali , and Bak-tath^ all tion of the Turkish fleet by the
having rock-hewn houses, Ac.; and Russians under Elpliinstone in July
across a ridge, whence there is a fine 1770, and that of the Turkish flagship
view of Axgoe us, to by Constantine Canaria on the 18th of
June, 1822.
Inje-su (5 hrs.), and thence, by Rte. On leaving the channel the steamer
55, to orosses the gulf of Scala Nova, at the
head of which can be seen the range
Xaisariyeh (6 hrs.). of Messogia (p. 90); and passes
between the lofty, fertile island of
Samos (1-)* and Icaria, and the barren
rugged islands of Phurni, anct.
Corauiae (rt.). The range of Mycalo
and the plain of the Maeander (p. 110)
now come into sight, and we pass the
islands of Tragia (1.), And Arki aud
Lipeo (rt.), behind which can be
plainly seen the monastery of S. John
on Patmoe. Then come the deep
gulf of Mendelia (1.), bordered bv
rugged mountains, and the islands
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route GOi—LMurtana.
171
of Left* and Calymna (rt). The
sfteamor now panes between Coe (rt.);
on wbioh can be seen the chief town
of the Island with its castle, end the
mainland, in a deep bay of which the
castle and town of Budrftin, anoi
ffalicamassut (p. 112), are just risible.
It then runs dose under Cape Krio,
the Triopian promontory, on which
are the rains of Cnidas (p. 117),
and thence steers direct for Rhodes,
passing the islands of Nisyros and
Telos (rt.) and Byrne (L).
Leaving Rhodes we cross a deep
{ julf, in which are the beautiful lana-
ocked bays of Marmarice (p. 117)
and Makri (p. 116), and come in full
view of the lofty mountains of Lycia,
aihongst which the snow-capped peak
of the Ak D. is conspicuous. We
pass in sight of Mt Cragus, the
valley of the Xanthus, and the ruins
of Patara Qf* 126). Next follow tho
island of Castelorizo, anct. Megiste ,
behind Which lies Antiphelius (p. 126);
tho island of Kekova, anct. Dolichitte
(p. 126), Finoka Bar, and Bhelidutt
Bnrtiu, or Cape Khelidonia, anct.
Promoniorium Sacrum, off which lio
five barren Islands. N. of the capo
can bd seeti the high peak of Takn-
tali D., anct. SMyrna, at the foot of
which is Phaselis (p. 124).
We now Cross the deep gulf of
Adalia (p: 122), and loee sight of the
land until we approach the Kara-
maulau conrit near Capo Anamur, the
most southbrlv point of A. Minor.
The steamer here keeps close to the
shore, from which the hills, backed by
loftier mbnntains, rise steeply ; and
passes Kix-limari Burns; the little
port of Kilindriit (p. 176), which has
a trade with Cyprus, visible (rt.) in
clear weather; the fine promontory
Capo Cavaliere, whoee white marble
cliffs rise perpendicularly from the
sea to height of 600 or 700 ft ; and
Ak Liman, the port of Selefke
(p. 177) — a small hay sheltered by
the low sandy spit, Rum Kapu, formed
by the silt brought down by the
(jalycadnus. Here the ooaSt trends
N.E., and we pan the remarkable
ruins whioh extend for several miles
on each aide of Ayash, anct SebatU
ft
178). As the ruins are all white,
they give the country an appearance
of splendour and popblousness very
different from its real condition. The
columns still standing on the site of
Pompeiopolis (p. 179), are visible
shortly before reaching
Martina (p. 184), the port of Tarsus
and Adana. The view of the lofty
range of Mt Taurus from the see off
the town is very fine, and the deep
cation from which the Cydnus issues
is plainly seen. After leaving Mer-
eina, the steamer rounds Cape Kara-
tash, the southern point of the great
Cilicion plain, and a fine view is
obtained of the Giaour D., anct
Amamls. I i then croesos the bay of
Issue to Alexandretta (p. 192), the
port of Aleppo and Antiocn.
ROUTE 60. ,
ADAUA-PERQA-SILLYUM-A8-
PENDU8 — SIDE.
II KM.
Mttr%Ah*( Perga) . ... 3 *
Anar Kent (Silly urn) . . 4 ,
ltel-kls Ken! (J*pe* du$) . 4
Ktkl AcUU* (SitU) . «t
Ad&lla (Attalia) . 14|
The road to Perga runs N.E. over
the level terrace on which Adalia
stands, and crosses the Dudcn Bn-
(p. 123) by a bridge. The terrace ter-
minates abruptly on the E., and its
edge, broken by ravines, and bordered
by outlying fragments, resembles a
rocky coast fringed with islands. On
one of the outliem, round whioh
sweeps the Sari Su, a tributary of the
Oestrus, was the acropolis of Perga,
now called, from the village at its
foot,
Murtana (8) hrs.). Perga was an
i Google
172
Route 60. — A»sar — Bal-lci ».
important city of Pamphylia, cele- lated hill, inaccessible exoeptonthe
brated for the worship of Artemis, in AY. side, where it was approached by
whose honour annual festivals were two ramps, rising respectively from
held. Both the goddess and her the N. and 8., ana meeting in front of
temple appear on the coins. The a fortified gateway. The ramps were
town was occupied by Alexander on partly rock-hewn, and their outer
his march eastward ; and in it 88. sides woro protectod by parapets. At
Paul and Barnabas preached the a later date the terraces at the foot of
Gospel (Acts xiii. 13 ; xiv. 24, 25). It the acropolis were built over and pro-
was the metropolis of Pamphylia tec ted by walls. The plaoe was so
Sepunda. but, during the Byzantine strong that Alexander did not attempt
period, it lost its Importance and to carry it by assault, and it contrived
Attalia took its plaoe as chief town of to maintain its autonomy, and later,
thejprovinoe. to enjoy the title of an ally of Borne.
Tne sides of the acropolis hill are With Perga it was joint metropolis
scarped, but the only ruins on its of Pamphylia Secunda ; and it ap-
summit are those of a church, and pears to have existed after Perga and
some broken columns, possibly belong- Aspendus were deserted,
ing to the Artemisium which Cicero Within the walls of the acropolis
accused Verres of robbing. On the are many ruins of houses, in places
{ >luiu to the 8. is the town, in sliape a partly rock-hewn, and near tne 8.
oug quadrangle, surrounded by walls wail are a theatre and odeum. E. of
with flanking towers, which, as last the odeum are the ruins of a small
reconstructed, are in good preservation, temple, and of Hellenio buildings. In
The 8. end of the town is a later one of the latter, which was converted
addition, and the anoient south gate is into a church, is a fine doorway with a
now within the waIIs. From the foot Pamphylian inscription in Greek dia-
of the acropolis hill a broad street with racters, that has not been translated,
covered portioocs ran 8. dirough the on one of its doorposts. N. of tlio
town, and for some distance beyond theatre are a church, a tower, and
its limits ; in the centre of this street other buildings constructed with an-
was a water channel crossed by foot cient materials. In the lower town
bridges. Towards the N. the street are a gate with round towers like that
was intersected by a similar one run- at Perga, and a large building, appa-
lling E. and W., and in this are the rentlv a palace. Outside the walls
ruins of a large building, dedicated are the stadium, and many tombs and
by Julius Cornutus to Claudius, and sarcophagi. From Ansar K. the road
or baths. Following the main street runs over the plain, partly through
southward there are, on the rt, a thick brushwood, to
basilica, and, near the 8. gate, large
baths ; and on the 1., the agora and a Bal-kis K., Aspendus (4 hrs.), on
basilica. Adjoining the agora is the the rt bank of tne Keupri 8u , anct
old city gate with fine round flanking Eurymedon, here a fine deep river,
towen. Outside the walls on the 8. W. Aspendus is mentioned by Thucydides
aro the theatre which could seat as a port to which vessels could asoend.
13,000 spectators, and the stadium, It was situated on a lofty hill from
both in a good state of preservation, which the sea was visible, and tho
On the W. and 8. sides are tombs and olive was much cultivated. It sur-
saroophagL About I hr. from Perga rendered to Alexander, and was then
the Ak Bu (Oestrus) is ferried and the a populous place. Cioero accused
track then crosses a plain thickly Verres of haying taken many fine
covered with brushwood and abound- statues from the town. At the
ing in game, to Council of Ephesus, s.n. 431, Aspen-
dus appears as Primopolis.
Assar K., Sitlvum (4 hrs.). The The ruins are partly on an isolated
town was origiually built on an iso- fiat-topped hill, which is divided into
Digitized by Tooele
Route 60 .—EM Adatia.
178
two uneoual parts by a smalt ravine,
and partly on the small rich plain
below. On the eastern and smaller
bill are cisterns, mnoh broken pottery,
and shapeless ruins. On the western,
amongst other remains, ore those of
an aaora, a basilica, a nymphaeum, a
small theatre, an areadeu and traces
of rock-hewn houses of the Phrygian
type (pp. 81, 141). There were gates
on the N., 8. and E. sides; and in
the ralley near the 8. gate are the
foundations of a temple. On the N.
side of the hill are fine remains of an
aqueduct; on the 8., some ancient
vaulted buildings, and the village of
Bal-kis ; on the W. many sarcophagi ;
and on the E. the stadium, and the
great theatre which was erected in
the reign of Antoninus and Lucius
Verne. The theatre is the most
perfect in A. Minor, and there are
several inscriptions in it. The pro-
scenium has two orders of columns
one above the other ; the lower Ionic,
the npper Corinthian. In the centre
of the colonnade is the figure of a
fcmalo springing out of the calyx of
a flower, and holding branches of
foliage in her hand. This is the
Bal-kis, 44 Honey girl,*’ the daughter,
according to tradition, of the King of
the Serpents, and the Queen of the
Dees, from whom tbeplace is supposed
to take its name. West of Baf-lrix is
a tract of rioh ground* partially
covered with brushwood, which is
impassable after winter rains, and
possibly marks the site of the aneient
lake or marsh Oapria.
[From Bal-kis it is two days to
Burk, Selge, romantically situated at
the foot of the lofty Bom Bmrun, The
road lies op the L bank of the Eury-
medon ana is very rough, but the
wild beauty of the soeoerjr will repay
the hardships of the journey. Below
the ruins, a bridge spans a chasm
through which the river flows, and,
after crossing it, there is a steep climb,
S irtlt over the old road, Colihiak^ to
e rich upland plain in which the
city lay. Beige was the most powerful
kna populous city of Pisidia, and was
believed to be a Greek colony. It
could pot 20,000 men into the field,
and, owing partly to the peculiarity
of its posi tion, — protected by im-
passable ravines falling to the Oestrus
and Eurymedon, it was never subject
to any power. It sent an embassy to
Alexander and gained his friendship.
The place was celebrated for its
fertility, and for an ointment made
from the root of the iris ; and there
are still many traces of terraoe-
culture.
The walls have been rebuilt at
some period ; the oldest are on the N.
side of the acropolis which was called
Cetbeditm, On the 8. are remains of
a city gate. On the Oeebedinm are
the ruins of an Ionio temple, of a
smaller temple dedicated to Artemis,
and a large reservoir supplied by an
aqueduct. E. of the Oesoedinm are
the agora, and a church on a knoll ;
and on a spur to the N. are a ball, an
Ionio temple, a large late Roman
building, a nymphaeum, a stadium,
a theatre, and a gymnasium.
Beige can be reached from 8illyum
in two days by a Tory rough mountain
mad ; ami from the N. by descending
the valley of tlie Eurymedon to
Balaam, and climbing thence a steep
mountain path.]
From Bal-kis the traveller can
return direct to Adalia in 9 hrs., or,
descending the rt bank of the Knry-
medon, cross it by a bridge, near the
remains of the Roman bridge, and
proceed E. to fiarilar (5| hrs.), where
SsU Adalia, Side (1 hrA on the
coast, where there are no inhabited
houses. 8ide was founded by Cyme,
and after surrendering to Alexander
received a Macedonian garrison. It
possessed a good harbour, off which
the fleet of Antioch us the Great was
defeated by the Rhodians. In the
1st oent no., when the pirates who
haunted the coast were at the height
of their power. Side was their chief
port, and the market at which they
disposed of their booty. Under the
Roman Emperors it was an important
Digitized by ^.ooQle
174
Route 61.-
plaoe, and it became lator the Metro*
polis of Pamphylia Prima.
The town ocoupied a low triangular
promontory, and was surrounded by
walls whieh are interesting specimens
of Greco-Roman fortification. At tlio
apex of the triangle were two har-
bours, still visible though almost
filled with sand and stones. The
base was protected by a ditch, and a
very strong, well-built wall ; and the
sides by sea walls, of which one is
partly covered by drifting sand. In
the centre of the land face is the
main gate, protected by round towers,
and approached by a road bordered
with sarcophagi. From this gate a
street with covered porticoes led to
the harbours, and on either side of it,
amidst the dense brushwood, are ruins
of public buildiugs. Near the apex
a largo theatre, in a fair state of
preservation, rises up like a lofty
acropolis. From it thore is a tine
view E. to Alaya, Selinti, and the
imposing mass or the Kestel D., W, of
the coast towards Adalia, and the
snow-clad inountuins of Lyoia, and
N. over the plain to the picturesque
rocky mountains and the fine gorge
of the Molas. Near the harbours are
remains of three temples ; and outside
the main gate are ruins of an aque-
duct aud a nymphaeum.
From Side a traveller proceeding
E. can reach Bazarjik (Rte. 61) in lj
hrs., and one returning to Adalia can
pass the night at Kit (4$ hrs.). From
this place it is 1} hrs. to the bridge
over the Eurymedou below Bal-kiz,
and thence 5 hrs. over the plain to
Istavros (6J lira.). Near the village
the Ak Su is crossed by an easy fonl,
ami a short distance further there is
an ascent to the terraced plain of
Adalia by an ancient road. 1} hrs.
from the Ak Su are the remains of an
aqueduct that carried water to Jfaoy-
dus on the ooast ; and soon after
several streams from the Duden Su
(p. 123), whioh fall in oasoades over
the cliff, are crossed. The rood then
enters the gardens of
Adalia (4 bn.).
Bazarjik .
ROUTE Cl.
. ADALIA — ALAYA — SELINTI — KILIN-
DRIA— 8EL£FKE— MER8INA.
KM.
Butijlk , . i. 14*
Alaya CCbracetiuvi) . , 1H
Selinti (Setinus). .10*
Cborak . . . l»
Kilindria (Celenderu) 13
Science (Sdeucid) . .18*
Korghox Kaleh (fi»rycn.s) .
llamas (/4mui) ' 4|
1C alas or Soli .... 7
Iderslna . .3
From Adalia follow Rte. 60 \o
Istavros, aud the bridge over the
Eurymedou below Bul-lciz (9 hrs.).
Thouco through TcuJui-uhthr and
Menavgat to Bazarjik (5} hn.), a
small town, the seat of a Mudir, on
the L bank of the Menavgat Chai ,
anct MeMu , which is crowed by it
ferry. About ) m below on the rt.
bank is a large eastlo. Tlio Melos is
a broad deep river whieh issues from
a fine gorge, and is navigable for
small oraft as far as Bazarjik. Tlio
road now crosses seyeral streams, in-
cluding the Karpuz 5m, aud passes
between the small village of Ohengir
(7 hn.) and the coast about } hr.
before reaching the Alara Su, pro-
bably the boundary betweeu Pam-
phylia and Cilicia Trachea. The
river is forded near its mouth, but in
flood time the ford is dangerous, and
it is then better to cross by the bridge
ut Allar about 3 m. inland. At Kara -
burntc on the ooast, } hr. beyond the
river, are extensive ruins with walls
and part of an aqueduct Thence
there is a good road along the ooast
passing several onoieut sites, amongst
which must bp Augae and Aunesis, to
Alaya, Ooracetium (8) hrs.), a place
of great natural strength not unlike
Gibraltar in situation. The old toum,
little changed since its walls were
rebuilt by Ala-ed-din in the 18th oen-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
176
Route 61 .—Alaya — Selinii.
tury, is situated on the E. side of a
rooky bill whioh rises abruptly from
a low, sandy isthrons, and is separated
from the mountains by a plain { m.
wide. On the W. and 8. of the pro-
montory are high cliffs, and here the
town was defended by a light wall
which has in great part disappeared.
On the N., or land side, where the
slope is steep, the line of fortification,
consisting of a wall with square flank-
ing towers, a ehemin <Usronde$ with a
light wall, and a deep and partially
rock-hewn ditch, is ?ery perfect On
the E. side the ground falls very
steeply to the harbour, which is ex-
posed to the 8. winds, and on this side
there are four walls. First, a sea wall,
with large towers at each end in which
are fire faults, each 100 ft long.
Small boats are now built in the vaults,
vhich, according to an inscription,
*ere erected by Ala-ed-din, possibly
foi his galleys. N ext comes a curved
wall enclosing a space in which was
the old baz&r. Beyond this wall
the louses of the town are built one
abort the other, on a succession of
ledget, in part artificial. Above the
houses is the third wall, apparently
Byzantine, but in places, os at tho
Kir KipUy built on oldor Hellenic
masonry A few houses, a mosque,
and the nine of a church lie between
the third and fourth walls; and be-
tween the fourth wall and the cliff
are three ’arge tanks, for rain water.
On the hghest point of the roak,
780 ft, are he ruins of a small cruci-
form churol (traces of frescoe) built
inside a larger basilica. From the
summit then is a fine view. On the
isthmus are the konak, the military
depOt, a smal baz&r, and some good
houses. Then are about 1000 houses,
of which 600 are in the old town.
More than onediird of the population
is Greek, hut ody Turkish is spoken.
. ? .
OomcfMum ms the only place on
.the Oilioian coas whioh did not sub-
,mit to Antioch* the Great. The
. rebel Tryphon, shen waging war
against the Seleioid kings of Syria,
. in the 2nd cent b.o., made it his
headquarters. It was the naval
station of the Oilioian pirates, and the
soene of the destruction of their fleet
by Pompey. In the 18th oent it was
occupied by Ala-ed-din the Great who,
as several inscriptions show, rebuilt
the wells (a.h. 623-8 > He made it
his principal naval station, and con-
nected it with Konia by a road which
crossed the Alara 8u at Allar, and
passed through Berdaniyeh and Seidi-
shehr (p. 155). From this restoration
comes its present name Alaya. On
the decline of the Sejjflks, it fell into
the hands of the Venetians, who, in
1471, transferred it to the Emir of
Kara man, then in revolt against
Muhammad II. ; it was at that time
called Castd Ubaldo .
On leaving Alaya we enter a rich
plain thiokly dotted with the ruins of
deserted Christian villages, some of
Vonetian origin. In 1 hr. the Dim
Chat, a fine stream issuing from a
deep glen is crossed, and we then
pass, I., the ruins of Kestd (from
Ca»tcUvm\ the great rock-mass of
Kettel D., and the ruins of several
ohurches. 2 hrs. from the Dim Chai
the road runs between a round-topped
hill with ruins (Laertt* ?), and a hill
about 1000 ft. high, on which nro
many sarcophagi, and extensive ruins,
apparently those of Sffdm. After
passing the ruins of a targe town on
the coast, the road crosses the valley
of the Sidrt Chai , whenoe there is an
easy path to. the ruins of Byedra.
The stream is forded near its mouth,
close to a small rock with ruins which
exactly corresponds to the Hamaxia
of Strabo. Timber is still floated
down the Sidre Chai for export An
hour beyond the river the road turns
inland to Damalan (6 hrs.) at the
mouth of a deep gorge. 2 hrs. further
we cross the Hack Bd y M Gross Pass,*’
the boundary between the Konia and
Adana VilAyets; and then, descending
to the plain, travel over.it to
fielinti, Sdinut-Trajanopoli $ (4)
hrs.), locally oalled Basani Kale*.
The bill of Selinti has high precipi-
tous cliffs on the sea side, and a steep
even slope towards the plain. The
old town was built on the hill where
Digitized by L^ooQle
176
Route 01 . — Ohorak—Ermenek.
are the ruins of walls and a castle.
The Roman town was on the plain,
and here arc several interesting tombs,
some with inscriptions, and many
ruins, amongst! which are those of a
temple, a gymnasium, an aqueduct,
and the smallest theatre in A. Minor.
On the rt. bank of the Injarkara Su
which runs past the bill are traces of
the old harbour. The Emperor Trajan
is said to have died at Belinus, and
hence its name Trajanopolis. 1J hrs.
up the yalley is Injarkara , the resi-
dence of the mudir of the Selinii
Nahieh, which takes its name from
the district Selenitis. From this
place a beautiful road, partly through
pine forest in which Bulgarian lum-
berers are generally at work, rnns
past Bujak (L), Qijik (rt.), and OSneh
(rt), near which are the remains of an
aqueduot, probably that of Antioch ia
ad Crngum, to ftsiak (7J hrs.). The
path now becomes very bad and rocky,
passing Kharadran , anct. Charadrut , at
the mouth of the Kharadran Ohai , and
Kelej ( OJ hrs.). A high spur, 1590 ft.,
is next crossed to the Sultan Su,
beyond which is
Ohorak (5} hrs.), the chief town of
the Anamur Kaza, which retains the
namo of Anemurium. Hence there is
a good summer road, following the
line of tho old Roman road, to Er-
menek. One hour from Chorak, after
crossing the Derenderes Chat , is
Mamurji Kaleh , a very large and
almost perfect castle with a ditch and
high walla 3 hrs. further is 8okhta
Kalesi , a castle built on the Blope of
an isolated hill. Soon after the ooast
is reached at an ancient site ( Arsinoe ? ),
and the spur which ends in the anct.
Prom, Potidium is crossed to Aksas
(7 hrs.). The path now runs along
the side of the hills aboye the sea,
whence Cyprus is plainly visible, and
| hr. after passing the pretty little
harbour into which the Sok Su runs,
enters
Kilindria, CdenderU (5 hrs.), the*
chief town of the Gulnar Kaza It
is situated on a harbour formed by a
small promontory on which are the
Konak, and mediaeval and other ruins.
Little is left of Oelenderis but numer-
ous tombs, and a beautiful little
Corinthian monument at the entranoe
to the town. Celenderis is supposed
to liavo boon founded by Phoenicians,
and afterwards to have reooiyed a
colony from Samos. It was connected
with Larauda by roads whiohl passed
respectively through Qermanicopolis
and Olaudiopolis, and was a flourish-
ing place in the middle ages. After
the complete subjection of Karaman
by the Osmanlis itwas almost deserted,
but since the British occupation of
Cyprus, with which it has a trade, it
has greatly increased in size.
[Kilindria to Karaman , by Ermenek
(41 hrs.). This route, though in
plaoes rough and difficult, passe#
through fine mountain soonery, and a
little known district full of interest.
It crosses the SeUi Bel, and then rvns
through Eleribas (G hrs.), Taih Ctuk
(2) lira.), alt. 4500 ft., and Ztrt*(7{&rs.)
to Ermenek, OermanioopolU (4f am.),
alt. 4450 ft, tho Beat or a kaiimkam.
It is a poverty-stricken place of about
1200 houses, built high up ina nook
in the mountains, on tho 1. lank of
the B. branch of the Oal'cadnus.
OermanioopolU was founded by An-
tiochus IV., a.d. 38, and naned after
OaligulA Germ anions. It vas one of
the Decapolis of Isauria, al of which
were situated in the valey of the
Ermenek Su. It was talon from the
Byzantiues in the 13ti cent by
Karaman, then Governorof Laranda ,*
and in it his son Malmftd resided
when consolidating his power on the
deoline of the Beljdks A mosaue
dates from this perfrd. Leaving
Ermenek the road cioees the Kamith
Boghas (6 hrs.), alt. 650 ft, and then
desoends to Bostan-* K. (4 hrs.).
The distriot was caled Oetis, and
near the road from Bmenek was pro-
bably Sbida, the nountain fastness
in which the Enperor Zeno and
his wife took refige (475-7) when
expelled from Oontsntinople. After
crossing the Boetwjik 8u by a stone
bridge, there is . steep asoent to
Melitt Tepe , anct. feloe (3 hrs.), where
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 01 .Sdefke. 177
was an important fortress guarding
the pass. Hence to Boyalar (8§ hrs.)*
and Karaman (4 hrs., see p. 157). *
KUindria to Karaman, by Mut
(87 hrs.). The road runs to Aine Baxdr
(6 hrsA the summer residenoe (yaUa)
of the kaimakam and merchants of Ki 1-
indria, who open a small bazir. Thenoe
direct to Mut (12 hrs.X or by Geuk
Helen (p. 180), in 20 hrs. From Mut
to Karaman (10 hrs.). Rte. 62.
Another road, not now used, led
formerly direct from Gelendens by
AdrasUs, on Adras D., N. of the south
branch of the Oalyoadnus to Afelito
Tame, and Laranda. On this road
(called the pass of Kiliudria or of
Adrisus) the Arabs were defeated by
the Bysantinee (a.d. 960).]
Tho Belefke road oroeses a hig li
spur to the mouth of the Dobadir Su,
anot Melanus, which flows through a
narrow valley, with high cliffs, in
whioh is Babadul (4 hrs.). We now
cross a high rocky spur that ter-
minates in fl?e points, Desk Parmak,
on ono of whioh must bo the ruins of
Aphrodisias. In 8J hrs. wo pass
Charleyik, and then follow an anoient
rock-hewn road to a pretty bay, on
the shore of which is Ov^jik Beala
(OJ hrs.). Hence a rood runs past some
mediaeval ruins to Porto Cavaliere .
Crossing to the Ovajik v&lley, we haye
(L) a castle, and (rt.) the promontory
of Cape Cavaliere, anet Xephyrium.
Off the const is the high precipitous
island of Provencal, onoe occupied by
the Knights or St. John. At the
mouth of the yalley is Takhta Liman,
whence timber is shipped in summer.
The road onward is rough nnd rocky,
following the line of the old road, and
in 4) lire, we pass EM Liman, the
port of Seleuoia, where are the ruins
of Holmi. The remains of a large
monastery and church are passed {
hr. before reaching Task Boala, or
Ak Liman (C| hrs.), the present port
of Selefke, where are a stone pier and
a few warehouses. The roadstead is
S en, and only partially protected on
e B. by the long sandy spit, Kum
Kobe, and Prom* Sarpedon. There
[Turkey.]
is a good road from the Boala, passing
through MeremU, where are ruins*
including those of a church, possibly
that of 8. Theda, to
Belefke, Seleuoia (If hrs.), the ohief
town of the lohili Sanjak. It is a
wretohed place, with a fine konak,
built out of the ruins of Seleuoia, and
stands on the rt. bank of the Oeuk Su,
and Calyoadnus* There are a few
Greek families and a church. SeUuciai
founded by Seleuous I., Nioator, circ*
B.o. 800, was preceded by an earlier
town,01bia, about 2 hrs. inland (p. 182).
It became the port of Isauria, and was
an important city striking coins; later
it was sometimes called Traohea.
There were a temple and oracle of
Apollo Sarpedonius, and a temple of
Athene — the latter on the Acropolis.
It was besieged in 1187 by Leon,
King of Ciliman Armenia, and here
it was that Frederic Barbaroesa was
drowned, 10 June, 1190, in attempting
to cross the Calycadnus. The town
remained in Bymntine hands until it
was taken for Sultan Ala-ed-din
(1287-57), by Nur Soil, fathor of
Karaman, who treacherously mur-
dered the Greek Governor.
The ruins oover a largo area ; the
acropolis was on a prominent hill,
470 ft high, which is now crowned
by the ruins of a strong picturesque
castle. The outer walls, and tho
ditch, with its masonry revetments,
arc in good preservation. On a rock
platform below the castle is a largo
tank, onoe fed by an aqueduot, and
near it are the old quarry and the
cemetery with sarcophagi, and rock-
hewn tombs of various types. Nearly
all the tombs have inscriptions, chiefly
Christian, and over many of the doors
are mutilated busts. Below the tank
was the theatre, of which only the
form remains, and near it are the ruins
of the gymnasium.
After crossing the Genk Su by a
good stone bridge the traok skirts a
marsh, extending to the sea, for about
8J hrs., and then crosses a series of
rocky spurs whioh. as far as the Lamas
River, are covered with the ruins of
ancient and mediaeval towns, of
*
Digitized by
Google
178
Route 61,—Korgho a — Ayash.
churches, monasteries, and tombs.
The whole district must have been
densely populated and highly culti-
vated ; now it is deserted exoept by
wandering Yuruks, and the terraced
gardens are overgrown with brush-
wood. There are many traces of the
Roman road, but it has lost its pave-
ment, and the modem track is rough
and rooky. The ascent 'of the first
spur, probably Strabo's rook Poecile,
which was out into steps, is very bad.
Further on is the site of Corasium,
rebuilt, according to a long inscription,
by the Governor of Isauria, during the
joint reign of Yalens, Valentinian and
Gratian. Then comes
Korghos, or Ayash Kalah, Oorycus
(5) hrs-X a large mediaeval fort at the
mouth of a ravine. Opposite to it is
the island of Korghoz, anct. Orambusa,
on whioh is a castle with Armeniaii
inscriptions. In 1432 the island
belongod to the King of Cyprus, and
in 1471 it was taken from the Turks
by the Venetians, who guvo it to the
Kaiir of Karaman. Cvrycus was
founded by Attulus, and was cele-
brated for its great cave where Zeus
kept bound the giant Tryphon. It
w«m the terminus of tho anciout road
which passed through the district of
Olba to Coropissus, and had several
towns along its course. The place is
frequently mentioned by mediaeval
pilgrims to Palestine; and it was
the lost Armenian stronghold to full
into the hands of the Turn (a.d. 1448).
Behind Korghoz Kaleh is Sheitan
Dere, a gorge with precipitous cliffs,
in one part of whioh are 18 rook-cut
bas-reliefs.
In the hills about 8 m. from the
shore is the Corycian Cave, called
Paradise by the Yuruks. It is an
oval depression 886 ft long, 65} feet
wide, and 98-228 ft. deep ; at the
8. end is the cave, which descends over
200 ft. into the bowels of the earth.
Here it was that the ancients placed
the prison of the giant Tryphon. At
the mouth of the cavern was a temple,
replaced by a later Byzantine church ;
and here Mr. Theodore Bent found a
Pagan and a Christian inscription ,
each couched in quaint language.
100 yds. from this cave is a second,
and on an eminence, about 1 m. dis-
tant, are the ruins of a Temple of
Jupiter , where Mr. Bent found an
important inscription , giving what he
considers to be a list of the Teucrid
dynasty, or priest-kings of Olba, who
ruled over tne whole of this district
in pre-Roman times, but whioh is per-
haps only a list of subscribers to some
purpose; The last name on the list is
that of Arohelaus, on whose death the
district became a Roman Province.
The track to Mersina runs through
the cemetery of Oorycus whioh con-
tains masonry and rock-hewn tombs,
and sarcophagi, many with Christian
inscriptions. After passing two large
churches and monasteries we come in
about ) hr. to
Ayash, Elaeusa-Sebasie. When Cili-
cia Aspera was given by Augustus to
Archekius (b.o. 20), the Cappadocian
monarch, whose daughter Glaphyra
nmrriod Herod’s son Anti pa tor, made
the island of Eluousu his home, and,
after embellishing the existing town,
called it Sebaste in honour of the
Emperor. It struck autonomous coins
under Antioch us IV. und Iota pc
(a.d. 38-72). The island of Elaeusa
lies within the horns of a small semi-
circular bay, and is now connected
with the mainland on either side by
an accumulation of sand and rubbish.
The ruins of Sebaste cover the island,
and the low hills round the bay. On
the E. promontory are the theatre,
ahd below it the gymnasium ; on the
shore, in the centre of the bay, is a
quay with the remains of an arcade,
half-buried in sand; and on the W.
promontory are two remarkable tombs
of Cyclopean masonry— apparently an
imitation of older work — rock-hewn
tombs, and on the highest point,
whenco there is a fine view, the ruins
of a small Corinthian temple lying as
they fell after an earthouake. The
visible ruins on the island are of late
date, Byzantine, Armenian, and per-
haps Venetian. The view landward
is even now striking, and when the
houses and buildings rose tier above
Digitized by ^.ooQle
.• ,f BotUe 6 1 ,^Hama*.
179
tier fiver the aroade of the quay, moat
hare been very grand. There are the
remaina of 8 aqueducts, of which one
brought eater from the Lamas River
about 9 m. distant; and in several
plaoes tho paving of the streets, about
U| ft. wide, is perfect.
OH the bills about 24 m. inland,
near Karwldunni, Mr. Theodore Bent
discovered a third cave, at a much
higher altitude than the other two.
Round it was a town called in an in-
scription , Kanygelli, a demeof Elaeusa.
8.E. of the cave is an ancient poly-
gonal fort, built by TeuCer, one of the
priest-kings, and dedicated to the
Olbian Jove. ‘ The walls of the cave
were decorated with bas-reliefs t and
Inscriptions. ' ’ '
The most interesting feature of
Scboste is tho necropolis through
which the road to Mersina runs for
about 1 hr. The tombs are of many
kinds ; some of the masonry structures
represent sinn 11 temples* and are clas-
sical in detail, whilst others are of the
rudest description. Some of tho sar-
oophftfi are attached to the rock by
their bases, others are separated from
it, and in many cases there is a simple
loculus sunk in the rock with a cover-
ing lid_ There are many inscriptions ,
nearly all illegible. Beyond the corner
tery are more ruins of monasteries aud
churches, and immediately after pass-
ing under an old portal we reaoh Ak
Kadsh, where are the ruins of a large
fortified monastery like those between
Antioch and Aleppo. There are a
fine oovered reservoir fed by a branch
of the Sebaste aqueduct, and a small,
pretty cruciform church. | hr. further
is a khAn, or rest-house, on the rt. bank
of the Lamas ffu, above which is an
old castle whenoe there is a fine view
of the mountains, l m. higher up the
hi . . . , . , .
' ' > . i»» * ’ *
llamas (4) lira), the seat of a mudir,
whence it is 80 hrs. to Karnmnn by a
rough mountain . path. The Lamas
8u runs for much of its course through
deep eaftofit, with olifis in plaoes
2000 ft high. Along the top of these
oliift, at every 8 or 4 m., are the ruins
of mountain fastnesses of pre-Roman
masonry. Of these, the most remark-
able is Pireneh, with zigzag steps cut
in the rock from the summit to the
river. At Tanurelti, Mr. Theodore
Bent discovered the ruins of Bemisus
on the 1. bank of the river. There aro
6 polygonal towers standing, a valley
of rock-cut tombs, ruins of theatres,
temples, and publio buildings, yet the
plaoe is not mentioned by ancient
geographers. The cliffs of the Lamas
gorge are in plaoes honeycombed with
the cells of anchorites.
Returning to the khin, the Lamas
Su is .crossed by a stone bridge, and
| in. beyond it aro the ruins of Lamus
(Cyclopean walls,' Ac.), 4 hr. furtbor
the Oilician plain is entered, and after
passing. Edemi (L) we cross the Alula
Su, which cuts its way through the
mountains in a cation that is a pro-
minent feature id the landscape (L).
At Arpaj KkAn, a reet-bouse, 1 hr.
further, are several pit tombs, in which
the tomb chambers load out of shnfla
about 5 ft deep ; on the shore,! hr. rt,
are ruins, perhaps those of Calanthia .
Tanuk (34 hrs.), seat of tho mudir of
tho Alvanli Nahieh. Continuing over
the plain and crossing several streams
we reach » the ruins of
Soli-Pompeiopolis (84 hrs.), on the L
bank of the MssetluSu, Soli, a colony
of Argos, was a Hob and important
maritime city of Cilicia when fined by
Alexander for its attachment to Persia.
It was taken * and destroyed by
Tigran es of Armenia, who trans-
planted the inhabitants to Tigrano-
oerta ; but was rebuilt by Pompey,
who settled in it some of the con-
quered pirates and called it Pompeio-
polis. There are the remains of a
port, walls, aqueduct, theatre, temples,
the long rows of columns on either side
of the main street, and many tombs.
Several of the columns of the colon-
node aro standing, but the other, build-
ings, out of which much of Mersina
has been, built, are rapidly disappear-
ing. The port was formed by two
Digitized by L^ooQle
180
Route 82 .~Alakli$*ia — Mut.
parallel moles, each 150 ft thick, and
21 ft high, which terminated in a
bow shape at the mouth.
Kanina (2 hrs., see p. 184).
ROUTE 62 .
8ELEFKE-MUT--KARAMAN.
BU.
Grok Belen . . . 7
Kut (Claudiopolu) . . . . Ilf
DftBftzIr(CbfvptM«u) • . 9
Kirtmin (Laranda) . ... 10
This is a very beautiful and in-
teresting journey; horse-road only.
Leaving Selefko the road passes B.
of the castle, and follows tne made
road to Aine Baz&r (difficult for an
araba ) as far as Qeuk Belen (7 hrs.),
a beautiful yaila, much frequented in
summer by Selefkiotes. Water is
very scarce along the road. A cut
which shortens tho toad by 1 hr. turns
oft* rt. 8 h». from Selefko and returns
to the high road at a Yuruk yaila,
2 hrs. from Gouk Belen (not easy to
find without a guide).
[From Geuk Belen the high road
continues to Aine Baz&r (8 hrs., p.
177), passing a fountain and shelter
half-way; and thence a good track
continues to Ermenek (10 hrs. ?).]
The Mut road descends through
Geuk Belen and winds along N. side
of the hills, rounding the heads of tho
dere*. The soenery for some distance
is of wonderful beauty. After 1) hrs.
it emerges into a more open country ;
and here, } m. rt. of the road are the
Remains of a small fortified town on
a crag overlooking tho river. Not far
beyond this point Laborde, in 1847,
saw remains of an aqueduct, perhaps
that of Diooaeearea.
Alaklissia (5 hrs.), a Greek village.
A ruined church testifies to the ancient
character of tho Christian settlement ;
a now church lias been built near it.
The mass of the villagers are ignorant
of Greek. Thence 1$ hr.'s. steep de-
scent to, Zeniya, a beautifully situated
Turkish village. The road descends
obliquely to
Zaradiken (4} h re.), a miserable
village on rt. bank of the river, which
is here crossed by a ford. The track
continues up L bank for 20 min. and
then bends N. away from the river at
a point marked by a rained bridge of
fine Byzantine workmanship, probably
crossed by Barbarossa on June 6,
1190. Thence it ascends over low
hills passing llbere (1} hrs.). Near
Kut, Ntnica-Claudiopolu (1 hr.), alt.
1000 ft.; sarcophagi and tombs are
scon rt., and remains of a colonnade
and other largo buildings of Roman
period 1. The first house L is tho
office of the Regie. Claudiopolu was
founded as a colony in 41 aj>. In
the walls of houses, and especially
of the castle, inscriptions ana archi-
tectural frugments nave been built.
Tho baz&r is very bod, and there is
nothing but an indifferent hahveh ; the
town is well watered, and has a repu-
tation for mosquitoes in summer. Tho
mediaeval castle is worth a visit. Tho
houses have improved since Lcako
called them “ a few hovels of reeds and
mud/’ and, as a natural consequence,
many of the vestiges of Clauaiopolis
seen by him have disappeared.
Leaving Mnt the traveller crosses a
Btream with the castle on his L and
descends in 1} hr. to a bridge (700 ft.)
over the Pirinj Su, which desoends from
the mountains abovo Kostel to the
Calycadnus. The villago of Balabanlu
is J hr. 1. of the road.
[1 hr. from the bridge are the ruins
on the hill of Sinabich , which lies E.
about 20 min. on the road to Ma—ora,
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 62 . ! — DaBazdr,
181
The remains of a mado rood wind np
from 8. ; on three sides the cliffs are
impassable, bat on the E. side there is
access, and here is a sacra via of in-
scribed sarcophagi, mostly in situ.
No building of importance can be
traced in the ruins which were dis-
covered in 1890 by Mr. D. G. Hogarth.
They are probably all that remains
of Dalisanausy a city of the Isaurian
Decapolis. There is water } hr. to
8.E. The ride np is very rough.]
After crossing the bridge the road
skirts a small plain, leaving Yapunlu
1., and in 1J hr. passes (1.) a little
spring, called Ilija. Not far above
this two roads diverge, either of which
will lead to Karainan. In this dis-
trict a guide is indispensable.
The lower road bears away N.W.
through a forest of oak and beech,
with an underwood of arbutus, lontisk,
ilex, and andrachne, to a fountain
(2$ hrs. from D^a), near a ruined
ohuroh. In sight from hore are the
grand ruins known as
Kcja Knlesi (3800 ft, 6 hrs.
from Mutt discovered by Laborde
and visited by the British Expedition
of 1890. These ruins are those
of a splendid monastery, the oldest
parts of which appear to be 5th
oentury or even earlier. The build-
ings formed a long parallelogram,
under the topmost cliff of the moun-
tain; the entrance is W. through a
gate adorned with reliefs of angels on
the inside of the posts. Proceeding E.
remains of a long hall and the living
apartments are traversed ; beyond this
alt open oolonnado scorns to have
connected tho body of the monastery
with the church. In the centre of this
colonnade is a curious shrine, and in
the rooks behind it are several tombs,
one inscribed with an opitaph dated
A.D. 461. At the oxtremo K. is the
ohuroh, a splendid specimen of 5th
century architecture, almost perfectly
preserved. It is conjectured with
great probability that this, monastery
U Apadna, stated by Procopius to
Itavo been restored by Justinian I.
The upper road climbs nearly N*
from Ilija towards a precipitous gorge,
and in 1 J hr. a fountain is reached at
its mouth (3800 ft). The road now
ascends the rt side of the gorge by a
series of zigzags, passing under an
isolated rock, which is a conspicuous
feature from afar. After 1 hr.’s climb
the summit (4900 ft) is reached,
and the track crosses an undulating
Wooded plateau, passing a spring, and
presently descenas obliquely into the
Upper valley of the Pirinj 6u. The
main track continues N. up to the
highest plateau of the Taurus, but it
is best to turn off rt. at a point 7 hrs.
from Mut (guide essential to find this
1 ' J/l
Da Bashr (9 hrs.), alt 4300 ft. situ-
ated near the headwaters of the Pirinj
Su. below the village of Kestcl, in
order to see tho remarkable ruins of a
city which successively bore the names
of Coroptssus, HicropoUs. and 8tbUia.
This site was discovered by Mr. Davis
in 1875, and revisited by the British
Expedition of 1890. It covers the
whole of a small plateau, isolated on
three sides by tho Pirinj Su and a
tributary stream. As Ooropissus-Hior-
opolis, this city was an important
bishopric, and the large church (8th
cent ?X which is the most conspicuous
object on the site, belongs to this
period. Under the Princes of Lesser
Armenia, it became Sibilia, and was
probably at that time only a fortress,
occupying the southern and most in-
accessible end of the site ; there the
shell of the Armenian citadel still
stands. Frederick Barbarossa was
kindly recoived hore in 1190, on his
march to Sclefko. The wall can be
traced round most of the city ; it had
square towers at intervals, and was
especially strong on the N. side, where
the slope is gentle. The rectangular
building outsido the wall on this side
is modern, but all within is ancient ;
tho sacra via of tombs runs from E. to
W. on tho N. sido. From the large
churoh to tho oitadel a street can be
traced, which was flanked for some
distance by colonnades, drums of whose
pillars remain in situ. Extensive mins
/Google
182
Bbute'(Mi*i-Ak Liman.
S.E. of the church appear to be thoee
of publio buildings, and not far S. of
them is an artificial platform, which
may have been the agora. 8., ruins
of a church and of many houses
may be seen. In the valley of the
Pirinj Su, 8.E. of the city, are the
ruins of a small aqueduct. There aro
no inscriptions, except a late epitaph
built into the modem building, N.,
and some Turkish graffiti in the church.
Water is obtainable either at Keitel ,
1 hr. 8. of the site, or at the group of
deserted huts 10 min. N.E., known as
Da Bazdr.
. Bence the road lies at first over low,
pine-clad ridges, and then up a grassy
valley, where are good wells and a
Yuruk yaila in summer, Emerging
from the head of this a fountain is
readied, 2} his., at which point the
main track from Mut is rejoined.
Immediately above this the watershed
(5200 ft.) is crossed, and a brood track
leads over the sterile plateau whioh
here forms the summit of Taurus. A
gentle descent of 1} hr. leads to the fine
fountain of Orenoluh (4700 ft.). The
track then descends more steeply by
the villages of Dana and Agin — the
latter partly hollowed out of the cliff
— into a deep cation, formed by a
stream which is followed, more or less,
down to Karaman. The rock dwell-
ings in the cation are curious. At
Fitandun 4 hrs. from Agin, is a fine
Byzantine diurdi, converted into a
mosque. Honoe the road follows the
stream for a short distance, and then
striking up the side of the Yalley, rt.,
joins the great Selefke road, to
Karaman (10 hrs., p. 157).
RQUTE 63.
SELEFKE TO KARAMAN.
< BBS.
Ak Liman.
Selefke 1|
Uzunjabuij (Olba) . . . •
liaghra . .4*
Karaman . . . IS '
This groat road was begun by Said
Pasha in 1885 while he was governor
of Konia; but owing to the absence
of villages and water on the line which
it takes across Taurus, it has never
been much used. It has fallen into
much disrepair, especially between
Maghra ana 8elefke, and in places
is barely practicable for an araba.
It starts from Ah Liman , the port of
Sclefko(p. 177), and passing that town
(Rte. Gl), crosses tho bridge over tho
Oalyoadnus. It thon proceeds nearly
due N., and, ascending by zigzags,
passes through a quantity of tombs
and remains of buildings of all kinds
half hidden in the brushwood : some
of the tombs have columnar facades
and aro inscribed. 2 hrs. from Selofke
these scattered remains coalesce into
those of a considerable town, covering
a round hill on the 1. Thoy extend
also rt. of the road. These are pro-
bably the remains of the ancient
city of Olbia , whioh preceded the later
Seleucia.
Proocoding, a large tower of poly-
gonal masonry, known as Maidan, is
seen a few yards 1. of the road ; other
remains of a fortress are to be traced
near it From the style and diaracter
of tho building, it seems to belong to
the 3rd or 2nd century n.o., and is no
doubt a relio of tho Oilician robber
chiefs, who asserted their practical in-
dependence of the Sclcucrfd kingdom in
the 3rd century, and grow rapidly in
lower aftor Rome had broken that
kingdom by the battle of Magnesia
Digitized by Tooele
Route d$.—Baghche Deresi. J88
(191 b.o.) and substituted nothing
stronger over most of A. Minor tlion
the rale of the Pergamene princes.
Oilicia was nominally left to the
Solenoids of Syria, bnt became practi-
cally “No Man’s Land,” held by a
number of robber-chiefs, whose for-
tress-towns were the refuge of every
broken man, and here the nucleus was
formod of that formidable Pirate
power, wliioh in the end of .the 2nd
and beginning of the 1st oonturies
b.o. dominated the Mediterranean,
organised itself as a belligerent, hired
out its fleets to the enemies of Rome,
kidnapped Roman citizens, and para-
lysed commerce. At last it interfered
with the corn supply of Rome itself,
and thus awoke tho dilatory Senate
to action ; in 79 b.o. P. Servilius
Ipauricus harried Oilicia, and in
67 b.o. Pompey, invested with an ex-
traordinary command, finally broke
up the Pirate power.
For a long way west from the
Lamas Gorge tho mountains are
covorod with fortress-towns, usually
built of rough polygonal masonry, and
probably relics of the Pirates. A very
fine example lies 4 hrs. from Selefke,
in sight from Said’s road, but on the
opposite bank of a gorge. It is now
known as Baghohe Deresi ; tho
ancient namo is unknown. It was
first visited by Mr. J. T. Bent in 1890,
and revisited by Mr. A. 0. Headl&m
in the summor of that year. Its in-
terest arises solely from its wonderful
position and the great strength and
complete preservation of its walls.
There is no water nearer than S m. ;
Yuraks camp not far away in harvest
time. Hence the high road gradually
ascends through deserted and almost
waterless gorges to Maghra (9 hrs.
from Selefke, see below).
Most travellers will prefer, however,
to turn off tho road rt at a point about
5 hrs. from Selefke, so as to see the
magnificent rains of Otha at Usunja-
buxj, where is a Yuruk yaila; the
rains are situated about 8 m. off the
road, but hidden by the hills. This
ditour is often made by native travel-
lers, as there are good wells at ITzunja-
burj, and the distance is hardly in-
creased. These great rains, first dis-
covered by Tohihatohcff, wero visited
by Mr. J. T. Bent, in the spring
or 1890; the British Expedition of
that summer also visited them. . The
most conspicuous object on the site
is a tower about 60 ft. high E. of
the city ; an inscription on it records
its erection in the timo of Teuccr
(probably 50-20 b.o.). W. are heaps
cn formless rain marking tho inhabited
part of the city, and at tho extreme W.
end of the plateau are the public build-
ings. First a very perfect theatre, re-
stored in the time or Marous Aurelius,
is soen on tho hill-side N. Then six
fine Corinthian columns are all that
ore standing of a colonnade , leading
apparently to the great Temple, pro-
bably that of the Olbian Zeus, which
is the most conspicuous object, next
to the Tower, on the site. This temple
is hexastyle of the Corinthian order,
and of Roman construction. In later
times it has been transformed into
a church. S. of this are large re-
mains of a building, whoee character
is not clonr. W. is tho elegant fa^mdo
of a hexastyle Temple of Fortune;
and N. a great triple gate , which
perhaps gave access to tho Agora. In
the cliffs N. of the site are innumerable
tombs, many inscribed.
8 miles E.8.E. are tho rains, pro-
bably of the older city, now called Ura.
A paved Roman road, part of that lead-
ing from Cory cue on the coast through
Olba to Coropissus (p. 181), conducts
from one oity to the other. The lower
city is a fortress town ; the most not-
able remains are thoee of an aqueduct
(bearing tho names of 8eptimius
Soverus and his family) and a curious
fountain.
[Hence the Roman road may be
followed by Jambaslu (interesting
tombs and rains), down to Agaek
(7 hrs.) : the road affords terribly bad
travelling, but is very interesting, as
perhaps the most perfect Roman high-
way still existing in tho country.]
The high road may be rejoined 2 hrs.
from Usuqjabuij, and in 2} hrs. more
the traveller reaches
Digitized by ^.ooQle
184
Route 04 .—Tarsus.
Maghra (4500 ft), the only village
on Bald’s road. Horo arc inscriptions,
a small kh&n, and a few houses, all
Christian.
[Henoe there is a road through the
mountains N.K. to Eregli (24 lira).
Guide essential. The first night
should be spent at Perchin Yaila
(8 hrs., 6200 ft.), where is good graz-
ing and water ; the second night at
JOtvle (9 hrs.); thence to Eregli
(7 hrs.); the last 3 lira on the post-
road from Karainan.]
From Maghra to Xaraman (18 hrs.,
p. 157) the rood lies through a coun-
try, uninhabited by anyone but stray
Yuruka 10 bra from Maghra a spring
can be found by a slight ae'tour off tlio
road L, but otherwise no water can be
obtained until 2 lira from Karaman.
The highest point (6100 ft) is reached
in about 5 lire, from Maghra. Thcro
are no objects of interest on tho road,
and tho scenery is bleak and without
grandeur.
ROUTE 64.
tides of grain, and other produce of
the interior and the ricn Oilician
plain, are shipped. Frenoh, Russian,
and other steamers touoh at the port,’
but they have’ to lie a long wav out,
and occasionally it is impossible to
land.
Many of the houses are well built,
and the streets are paved with stones
from the ruins of Pompeiopolis
(p. 179) ; the most important building
is the Greek Church. Behind the
town are extensive gardens.' The
population is chiefly Christian, but
there are many Ansariveh (an-Nusa
iriyeh) from Syria, who arc called
feUahin. There arc Austrian, British,
French, Greek, Italian, Spanish, and
Persian Vice-Consuls. The climate
in summer is bod, and most of the
residents then go to Balakli or Guezni
in the mountains. Transport can
always be obtained for a journey in
the interior. At Kara-duar , 8 m. E.
of Mersina, are the ruins of a town of
some size, perhaps Anchialus , but they
are almost oovorod with sand and
rubbish.
A macadamised carriage-road runs
in a straight line from Mersina to
Tarsus, passing (rt) several low arti-
ficial mounds, which have served as
signalling stations on the coast The
railway posses N. of the road, crosses
the Deli Chai by a good bridge, and
stops at Kudebas ana Haj Tiueb, be-
fore reaching Tersns Station (16) m.),
about } m. from
MER8INA — T AR8U8 — ADANA.
. . MILKS.
Tarsus, bj Rail .... 16*
Adana, by Rail . . .41*
The short line of railway wliioh
connects Mersina with Tarsus and
Adana was ooiupleted in July 1887.
Mersina, the port of Tarsus, is a
town of reoent foundation. A village
gradually grew up at the time of the
Egyptian occupation, and during and
after the Crimean war the village be-
came a town. It is now a place of
importance as the terminus of a rail-
way, and the port at whioh large cjuan-
Tersns, Tarsus, on the rt bank of
the anct. Cydnus. The river flowed
through Tarsus to a lagoon called
Rhegma , now a fever-breeding swamp,
which was connected with the sea,
and formed the port of tho oity.
Tarsus was admirably situated in a
fertile plain at the mouth of the passes
leading from Cilicia to Cappadocia
and LycaoniA; and Xenophon de-
scribes it as a great and wealthy city
containing the palace of Syennesis,
king of Cilicia. Some writers state
that it was founded by Sardanapalus,
others by Argives under Triptolemus.
Alexander caught a dangerous fever
when bathing in the Cydnus ; and at
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 04.— TarswA
185
the present day it is said that if any
ono bathe* in the river he is sure to
catch a fever. After Alexander's
death it belongod to the Belenoid
kings, but, for a time, was under the
Ptolemies. In the Civil Wars of Borne
it took Caesar's side, and on the occa-
sion of a visit from him, had its name
changed to Juliopolis. At Tarsus,
Mark Antony reoeived Cleopatra, who
sailed up the Cydnus in a magnificent
vessel disguised as Aphrodite. The
town was much favoured by Augustus,
who made it a free city. It was one
of the three great universities of the
pagan world, and the imperial family
of Rome sometimes selected the tutors
for their ohildren from its literati. It
was thus “no mean city " in which 8.
Paul was born, and in which he once
made tents but of the cloth called
eilieium.
Tarsus was a place of great import-
ance during the JParthian and Persian
wars of the Roman Emperors. The
Emp. J ulian died and was buried there.
Justinian made a canal through the
city to regulate tho waters of tiro Cyd-
nus, whicn had overflown and causod
great damage. The town was taken
by el-Mahrii, and fortified oirc. 782,
by llorfin er-Bashtd, who is said to
have turnod the river into its present
bed. Harfin's fortifications consisted
of double walls and a broad ditch, and
there were 6 gates, of which thatfaoing
the H Cilician Gates ” was callod the
“Gate of Holy War." HarOn's son
and successor, el-Mamfin, who died at
Bozanti, was buried beside tho great
mosque. In 965 Tarsus was taken by
Nioephorus II., who destroyed tho
mosques, aud carried off the bronze
gates to Constantinople. It is memor-
able for the disputes Detween Tancred
and Baldwin during the 1st Crusade,
■ and for the massacre by the Turks,
beneath its walls, of 800 Crusaders
upon whom Baldwin dosed the gates.
The walls were restored by Leo 1L
(1183-1219) and Hethum I. (1219-69),
and the town was alternately in the
hands of the Armenian kings, the
Arabs, and the Turkomans, until it was
incorporated in the Osman li Empire
by Bayesid J.
: The Hrfns of ancient Tarsus are
oovered with silt brought down by the
Cydnus, and now lie 15-20 ft below
the surface. Hosaios, inscriptions,
Ac., are frequently brought to light,
but there has been no systematic ex-
cavation. The modem town consists
of hbusfes of mud and stone, amidst
which the Armenian Church is con-
spicuous. There are a well supplied
batdr, several mosques and churches,
and cotton-cleaning establishments, —
one with 4000 spindles worked by the
river. The town is surrounded by
magnificent gardens whioh produce,
besides orange, lemon, and citron, a
variety of fruit and vegetables which
were first introduced before the Cri-
mean War by Mr. Consul Barker.
Tho population is a strange mixture of
Turin, Armenians, Greeks, Persians.
Afghans, Ansariyeb, Hindus, Ao. All
the watchmen are Afghans, and the
gardeners Ansariyeb.
Near the town is a mound where in-
teresting pottery and statuettes have
been found by excavation; hence
there is a fine view over the city and
gardens. Few traoee of the loads re-
main ; but there is the core of one of
the gateways, and another, the Demir
Kapu, was pulled down about 1877, by
order of Zia Pasha; both apparently
belonged to the wall of Harfin. In
the house of the U. 8. Vice- Consul is
a deep well, which is called 8. PauTs
weU. Some of the mosques are old
churches, and ono near tbe Adana
road has door lintels With Armenian
inscriptions. In the Armenian Church
is an inscription of Auchin, dated
a.d. 1319. Near the Cydnns, and in
tho ledge over whioh it falls, close to
the town, are rock-hewn tombs. The
bridge over tho Cydnus, on tho
Adana road, dates from the Armenian
kingdom.
The most remarkable monument is
tho Dunuk Tosh, “ overturned stone."
It consists of a long open court sur-
rounded by a wall about 24 ft high
and 21 ft thick, which is built of ex-
tremely hard concrete in courses 1-2 ft.
high. The upper portion, once perhaps
covered witn marble slabs, projects
beyond the lower, which was faced
Digitized by
Google
186
Route Adana.
with dressed stone. Within the oonrt
are two large cubical masses of conorete
of the same height as the wall ; that at
the S. end stands free, whilst that
at the N. end is attached to the wall
and was apparently ascended by ramps.
Outside the N. wall are two open pas-
sages whioh were once vaulted. Exca-
vations have thus far failed to explain
the object of the monument which has
been called by some writers the Tomb
of Sardanapalus. Modem tradition
makes it a palace, but it is probably,
as the German architect Koldewoy
has reoently explained, the substruc-
ture of a large Homan or Graeco-
Homan temple, similar to the large
temple at Pompeiopolis. In the out-
skirts of the town is a tomb venerated
by Christians as that of S. Paul and
by Moslems, as that of el-Mamftn.
2 hrs. from Tarsus is the 14 Moun-
tain of the Seven Sleepers,” Jtbel
S'hab el-Kehf. The cave, near which
is a small mosque, is a oelebruted
place of Moslem pilgrimage. From
the summit tlioro is a grand view of
Mt. Taurus, and of the Cilician plain
as far as Mt. Arnanus. At Chandir
Kalesi t 8 lira N.W. of Tarsus, are the
ruins of an old Armenian fortress and
church, with sevoral inscriptions in
Armenian.
The caniage-road to Adana runs
nearly due E. over the plain, and
half way, passes Yeniie Khan(3hn.\
where it is joined by the caravan
route from the Cilician gates to Adana
(31 hrs). The railway crosses the
Cydnus by a bridge, and at Qtdek
Boghax Station (21 1 m.) traverses the
great road from TarsuB, through the
Cilician Gates, to the Anatolian
plateau.
Adana (41} m.), the chief town of
the VilAyet of Adana, is built partly
on a low isolated hill, on the rt. bank
of the &tkdn, anct Sarut, and partly on
the plain at its foot. The broad nver,
which has a slight fall, and a very
tortuous course, is crossed by a
fine bridge, 300 yds. long, but only
portions of the piers and one arch date
from the time of Justinian. On thert.
bank at the end of the bridge are the
ruins of a castle built in 782 by Hariln
er-Hashtd. . The river often over-
flows its banks, causing great damage
and forming swamps whioh give rise
to fevers; on its waters are many
floating millB. .
Adana retains its name, but there
are no remains of the . ancient city
whioh rose to importance as a station
on the military road from Tarsus to
Issue. It is now a large prosperous
town, with good government build-
ings, several ootton mills, good bazftrs
and public bath, a theatre, and several
mosques. The American mission haYO
a ohurch, house, and school, the last
near the top of the hill. The principal
mosque, Ulu Jamf , was erected in
1542 by one of the family of R am aza n ,
a Khorassan chief, who conquered
and held Cilicia (1378-1515) prior to
the Osinanli occupation. It w us Ap-
parently built ou the site of a church,
and old columns, capitals, Ac., have
been used in its construction ; there
ore some good tiles.
The population is as mixed ns that
of Tarsus, with the addition of Kurds.
The climate is very hot in summer,
but not unhealthy ; in wiutor it is de-
lightful, except when the N. wind
blows. Malarial fever is prevalent at
tunes. There is a large trade in cotton.
The country round the town is very
fertile, and the gardens , irrigated by
water-wheels, are very productive,
sugar cane and date palm were intro-
duced by Ibrahim Pasha during the
Egyptian occupation. Adana is a
good starting point for the sportsman.
Woodcock and snipe are plentiful in
winter; gazelle and hares can be
coursed on the plain; wild boar are
found in the swampy junglo, and fran-
coliu and tJie little bustard on the
plain. It is proposed to extend the
railway B. to Aintab, and Birojik on
the Euphrates, or vid Marash and
Malatia to Kbarput ; and N. and W.
to Konia.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 65. — The
, ROUTE 66.
THE OIUOIAN PLAIN.
HIS.
Adsnt.
8ta (Siiium) . . . . 124
Anourba (Snasarbus) 4 j
Osmsnleli ..... 8
Ajss (Atgae) 13
a Ksrs-Usb (MaUlut) ... .8
' Adana . . . . . If
Tho great Cilioion plain, which is
clividod into two sections by low spurs
that nm out from the Taurus to
Missis (p. 191), is one of the mo#t
interesting districts in A. Minor.
In, or near it are the remains of
numerous ancient cities and strong-
holds; it has a motley population,
whose manners and customs will re-
pay close study; and the sportsman
will find on it a great abundance and
variety of game.
In the Western plain the soil is a
rich stoneless loam, and wonderfully
fertile, and here are the large towns
of Tarsus and Adana. Along the
ooest are sandhills about 10 ft high,
cane brakes, lagoons of salt and fresh
water, and two permanent marshes,
one S.W. of Tarsus, the other 5 m.
8.W. of Adana. The large rivers
which run through the plain have
frequently changed their oourses.
The CydnuB , which ran through
Tarsus to the ancient harbour, now
flows to the sea E. of both ; the Barut,
after passing Adana, runs S.W. to
enter the sea near the mouth of the
CydnuS ; and the Pyramus , which turns
E., below the Dede D., is closing the
mouth of Ayas Bay (p. 190). The old
beds, visible in many places, show
that the Sams once ran into the
Pyramus near Dede D. ; and that at
another period— possibly in the time
of Alexander — both rivers flowed in
one bed to the sea W. of Kara-tash
(p. 190). The Saras is navigable for
tugs as for as Adana, and the Pyramns
as far as MissU, but both have bars
Cilician Plain . 187
only passable by small boats. The
plain is owned and cultivated by
Ausariyeh, Armenians, Afghans,
Greeks, Kurds, Negroes, Turkomans,
Turks, and Turuks, who live for the
most part in villages of sun-dried
bricks. During summer about 100,000
harvesters used to arrive from Kliarput
and DiArbekr; but, for the present,
the Government have interdicted this
migration. Tho heat in summer is
great, but is always tempered by a
strong sea breeze.
The Eastern plain, called Chukur
Oca, in which lies Anazarba, is only
partially cultivated, and oontains
much marshy ground with thick cane
brakes, and some barren land. It is
watered bv the JihUn, anct. Pyramus,
and its tributaries : and bv line springs,
some of which burst forth as full-
grown rivers. The climate is un-
healthy in summer and autumn, when
the flies and the prevalence of fever
render the district almost uninhabit-
able. Tho usual inhabitants ore
Armenians, Avshars, Circassians,
Dngbistanis, Noghais, Tatars, Turko-
mans, and Yuruka; but every winter
the plain is crowded with Avshars,
Circassians, Kurds, and Yuruks, who
have journeyed south with their flocks
to escape the more rigorous climate of
the Anatolian plateau. The villages
are often only collections of cane huts.
The many centuries of border war-
fare, which the plain has witnessed,
have left their mark in numerous
rained fortresses and castles.
After crossing tho bridge over the
Sih&n at Adana the araba-road runs
over the plain to Missis, and thenoe
N. to Sis (Rte. 66), whilst the bridle
path turns NJ3., and crosses some
low hills to 8ai Geehst (7) hrs.), a
village of Sirkinti Turkomans, and
seat of a mudir. The path now runs
across the plain to the bridge over
the Qirym 8u, beyond which lies
Bis, Bisium (5 hrs.), on a striking
rocky hill, at the month of the
important pass to HAjin, and Geuk-
sun. The old native name Sis or
Sisium was replaced by a Roman
Digitized by L^ooQle
188
Route 66 . — Anazarba. \>.
name, but returned into use in the bo obtained at Hajjilar, or at Akdam,
later Byzantine period. In 704 thq an Armenian village (ruins and in-
Arabs besieged Sis, but the siege was seripUons ), { hr. S. of the ruins.)
raised by a sudden advance of the Acoording to Suidas the original
Byzantines. The town was rebuilt in name of Anazarbus was Oyinaa, a
1180 by Loo II., and it continued to nlaco which Strabo says was a deposit
be the capital of the Armenian kings for treasure in the time of Alexander
of Lesser Armenia until 1374, when it and his successors. The town was
was taken and destroyed by el-Melek favoured by Augustus and Tiberius,
el-Ashruf, Sultan of Egypt. was called Caesarea ad Anazarbum,
The hill of Sis, which is almost and was the Metropolis of Cilicia
isolated, rises abruptly to a height of Socunda. It was sovoral times mined
1100 ft above the plain, and on its by eartlmuakes, the last time in the
summit are the ruins of a fine oastle reign of Justin (525), who rebuilt tho
in which are Armenian inscriptions, town and called it. Justinopolia It
The modem town, on the hill-side, is was taken by Harfin er-Raslitd (802),
a wretched place with poor konak but recovered by the Byzantines,
and baz&r. It is the seat of a Mutes- from whom it was captured by Toros I.,
sarif, and also of an Armenian Oatho- King of Leaser Armenia (1100-23).
likos, who claims equality with the Toros rebuilt the fortifications of the
Catholioos of Echmiadzin. The only acropolis, and Anazarba became the
place of interest is the Armenian capital of the Armenian kings until
Monastery , containing the palace of the seat of government was trans-
the Catholioos. In the oourtyard is ferred to Sis. In 1130 a battle was
the great Church, built by Leo II., fought near the town between Bohe-
ond enlarged by his successors. It inond of Antioch and tho Sultan of
lias three uislos, with a largo central AlopjHj, in whioh tho former, though
apse. The side aisles liavo chapels victorious, lost his life. In 1137 John
dedicated to S. Peter and S. Paul, Comnenus took tho town, but it was
and in the N. wall is a chapel of the recovered by Toros 1L (1142-67). In
Holy Ghost In the ohurch are some the 14th century it fell into the hands
quaint old pictures, and the marble of the Sultans of Egypt, and in the
coronation chair of the Armenian reign of Bayezid I. passed to the
kings; on the sides of the chair are Osmanlis.
the emblems of the four Evangelists, Anazarbus consisted of a walled
and on its back a double-headed town situated on the plain at the foot
eagle with a cross in one claw and an of an isolated ridge of rock, near the
orb in the other. At the foot of the centre of which was the acropolis,
altar steps are two large bronze The ridge, whioh rises like an island
candlesticks whioh stood on bronze from the plain, is about 8 m. long,
lions of antique design. In a chest and 510 ft. high. It lies nearly N.
are some old Armenian MS., and the and S., and the crest is in places not
right hand and arm of S. Gregory, a more than 2-3 ft wide. The W.
relic also said to be at Echmiadzin, side above the town is a sheer preci-
In the hill are many rook-hewn pice ; the E. Bide, though abrupt, is
tombs. not inaccessible. Approaching from
From Sis the rood follows that to the N. we pass several rock-tombs —
Kara for 1) hrs., when it turns S.S.E., one with bas-reliefs, and a long de-
nt a large standing column, and runs faced inscription ; many sarcophagi ;
past the village and magnificent and a largo arched cave with insorip-
spring of Allah Bunar to Hajjilar. turn. The fortifications, which oonsiBt
Thence one of the aqueduots is fol- of an inner and an outer wall, pro-
lowed for 1 hr. to tected by a ditch, form a sort of half-
moon, the ends resting against the
Anasarba or Anavarsa, Anazarbus ridge. The walls are built out of the
(4} hrs.). (Fair accommodation can temples and other buildings of the
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Digitized by
189
Route 66 * — OimanteJu
Roman town, and in them are a few
Latin and Oufio inscriptions. There
are four gates, apparently of Arab
construction; Within the walls there
is a mass of ruin amidst whioh the
course of the two main streets can be
traced by their fallen columns. There
are also a fine triumphal arch, and
remains of a gymnasium, church. Ac.
The * town was supplied by three
aqueducts, which brought Water from
the N. : one, 7 m. long, from Hammam ;
another, 6 m., from Allah Bunar ; and
a third. 10 m.. from the great spring
at the head of the Sempaa Su. Many
of the arches are still standing.
Outside the S. gate is the stadium,
partly rock-hewn, to the centre of
whioh a street, bordered by oolumns,
led from the triumphal arch. Near
it in a reoess in the hill is a small
theatre.
Behind tho theatre there aro two
roads that lead to the acropolis. One,
a chariot road, partly rook-hewn and
bordered by sarcophagi, which passes
half-way the ruins of a large church ;
tho Other, a rock-hewn flight of steps.
Following the latter we pass (rt.) a
number of rock pedestals with defaced
Greek inscriptions, and, about half-
way, a vase apparently intendod to
bold water. On the treads of some of the
steps are Greek letters. On reaching
the summit we pass through the 8.
wall of tho acropolis, defended by
flanking towers, and enter an enclosure
in which is a small church originally
Byzantine, but rebuilt by the Ar-
menians. Over the highly ornamented
S. door is a short Greek inscription,
and a long Armenian inscription runs
round the building on the outside.
In the interior are traces of fresco.
At the N. end of the enclosure is a
rock-hewn ditch, and beyond it a
tower of beautiful masonry with a
long Arinotiian inscription of Toros I.
Hero the rock on cadi side is pre-
cipitous, and the view from tho tower
is magnificent N. of the tower is
another rock-hewn ditch, on the N.
side of which rises the wall of the
keep, whioh can only be reached by
olimbing the E. side of the ridge.
The lower part of the masonry is old,
apparently Hellenic, and perhaps a
reno of Cfyinda. N. of the keep the
ridge is very narrow, offering just
sufficient room for a wall that runs
along the crest to a tower whioh is
again connected by a similar wall
with a tower at its extreme N. end.
Leaving Haijilar the read prissos
the N. end of the Anasarba ridge and
then turns S.E. over the plain, oroesing
the Sempaa Su by a ford and the
SavrUn by a stone bridge, to Keehek TL
(8 hrs.l Here there is a ferry over
the Jihfihj which is about 80 yds.
wide and has a dense cane brake on
its L bank.
[From Keehek K. a path runs up
the rt bank of the river to Ourauje It,
a Turkoman village at the foot of a
hill crowned by the ruins of Hemita
Kaleh. Hence it is 1) hrs. to Budr&nt,
Hieropolis- Gastdbala (8 hrs.), on a
spur of the mountain about 9 m. from
tbe Jihfin, and near the poiot where
it issues from the mountains. The
ruins are those of a trailed town
through which a broad street with
porticoes ran from 8. to N. West of
the street are rhins of the acropolis, a
temple, an aqueduct, reservoirs, and
tombs. On tbe E. side are those of fc
theatre, thermae, a temple of Artemis,
the agora, aud a church. Outside
tho walls on tho E. aro remains of a
church; and on the 8. heroa and
tombs. Several inscriptions were
found by Mr. Davis and Mr. Theodore
Bent From Budrfim to Kare-baslr
is 6} hrs. j
2 hrs. beyond the ferry is the Tejerli
village of Kabuldu, opposite to which,
on rt. bank of the river, is Hemita
Kaleh. Henoe the road lies partly
through swamp and cane brakes to
Osmtnieh (5 hrs.), alt 470 ft, At
the W. end of the pass over Mt
Amanda (Rte 99), and on the line of
a projected railway to the Euphrates.
It is the seat of a kaimakam, has a
small basdr and good gardens, bat is
rendered unhealthy in summer by the
t
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190
Bouts 65. — Qezenne — Kora-tosh.
rioe fields. The water is bad. The kinds, — wild boar, gazelle, francoUqj
road onward lies down the valley fpr red-legged partridges, hares, wopdi
2 hra to Toprak Kalesi , a small village oock, snipe, wild fowl, Ac. Leaving
at the foot of an isolated hill of basalt, Ayas, the road runs round the bay for
250 ft. high, on which are the mins of 2 hra.* passing Hatrasl t, and other
an interesting mediaeval fortress with villages to Shirisk Tepe , whence it
triple walls. There are traoes of more crosses some low spurs to the ferry,
ancient masonry, but no inscriptions, over the Jihftn at Deirmenli (4 hrs.).
The fortress faces and guards a re- It then keeps across the plain to a
markable gap in the hills to the 6., stone bridge over the old bed of the
whioh has a level bottom, and for Jihfln, and 1 hr. further to
} m. is only about 300 yds. wide, with
cliffs about 100 ft high on either side. Xara-tash, Mallus (4 lira.), a small
In the pass are the remains of a wall village on the shore with bad water
that onoe closed it, and here probably supply. . On the point about 1 hr,
were the “ Amanian Oates ” (p. 192). 8. w., are a lighthouse, and the ruins
On reaching the 8. end of the pass, of Mallus, a town reaohed by Alex*
the path keeps to the rt., running on ander after throwing a bridge over the
an embankment beside an old paved Pyramus, whioh then flowed W. of the
road, and 1} hra. from Toprak Kalesi town. It was a place of some import-
reaches the extensive ruins oalled anoe, and, ss at Tarsus and Anazarbus,
its chief magistrate bore the name
Osseous. There are remains of a Demiurgus, common among Dorian
small theatre, a temple, a church, a oities. Behind it lay the famous
gymnasium, and of a street bordered Aleian plain. In tbo Middle Ages
by columns through whioh the road to it was called Malo, and its earliest
Buiao ran. The most striking ruin is Greek name appears on coius os
that of an aqueduct which brought Marios. Some inscriptions from
water across tne pluin from the Giaour Mallus may be seen in the flour mills
D. The ruins, which are nearly all of near the station at Adana. Returning
black basalt, are possibly those of to tbe bridge over the old bed of the
Epiphania , mentioned by Cioero, and Pyramus, we cross an enormous grass
referred to by Pliny as Oeniandus. plain, often flooded in winter, and pass
Leaving the ruins the track runs over through the Urail, the most fertile
the plain to the sea-ahoreL where it portion of the Cilioian plain, to
joins Rte. 66, and follows it to Kurt
Kulak (8 hra., p. 191). Thence low Adana (10 hra., p. 186).
bare hills are crossed to
Ayas, Aegae { 5 hrs.),a small village,
the seat of a mudir, in the interior of
an old castle on the shore of Ayas
Bay. The castle stands at the W. ex-
tremity of the ancient port, and outside
it are the ruins of Aegac, which was
an important naval station under the
Romans, and had a temple of Ascle-
pius that was destroyed by Constan-
tine. [From Ayas it is 6} hra. to
Missis by a bridle-path over J, en-
Nur; and 11 hra. to Adana, crossing
the Jihfln by a ferry at Yakshi.] Ayas
Bay is a favourite winter resort of
yachtsmen, and the ships of H.M,’*
Mediterranean fleet. The surround-
ing country abounds in game of all
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101
Route M.—Mtmt—Pijfas.
ROUTE 66.
At>ANA~MI88l8 — PIYA8 - AL8XAN-
DRKTTA.
Ilb.1*
i (Mopsouestia) ...
P1t 4» (Mae) ....
AtoxsndrttU (Alexandria ad It-
1*4
Two roads, both easy, but haring
little water and no shade, lead Et over
the plain from Adana to
•I . t ;
Missis, Mopsouestia (5 hrs.), a small
village of Moslems and Armenians, on
the rt. bank of the Jihftn, anoi Pyra -
mas. Mopsouestia, founded by Mopsus
after the Troian War, occupied an im-
portant position on both banks of the
Pyramus, at the point where it leaves
the low hills and is crossed by a sub-
stantial bridge. Pliny calls it a frto
city, and it was favoured by Trajan,
Hadrian, ond Justinian, who restored
the bridge. It was taken by Harfln
or- Rashid, made a border fortress by
cl-Mansflr, and recaptured by Nice-
phorus in 964. It passed later into
the hands of the Sultan of Egypt, but,
in 1097, it submitted to Tancred, who
fought a battle with the followers of
Baldwin beneath its walls. It was
frequently taken and retaken during
the Border warfare between Byzan-
tines, Armenians, Arabs, and Turks.
Theodore, Bishop of Mopsuestia (393-
429), the friend of S. Chrysostom, is
considered to have been primarily
responsible for the theological commo-
tions associated with the names of
Nestorius and Pelagius. The ruins on
the rt. bank are about 80 ft above the
river, and consist of fragments of
columns and of the oity gates and
walls. At the N. end of the site are
the remains of a stadium. At the 8.
is the acropolis . The beet ruins lie
N. beyond the village. On the L
bank the walls of the other half of
the oity oan be easily traced. The
brides was partially destroyed by
Ibrahim Pasha during the ‘Egyptian
War, but has been repaired sinoe. .
• [From Missis there is an arabo-road
over the Ohukur Ova to Bis (12 hrs.),
which passes Tumlo KaUh , an old
castle on a mound, and creeses several
streams. Other roads (Rte. 99) lead
to Osmanieh (11 hrs.).]
After crossing the bridge and pass-
ing two deserted khkns, built in the
16th century, the road runs up the 1.
bank of the river, along the foot of a
low rocky range of hills which cul-
minates in Jebet en-Nur t 1200 ft., and
separates the Chnkur Ova from the
plain of Issue. After 1) hrs. Ilan
ksleh, on the rt. bank (Rte. 99), and
some Circassian villages are passed.
Here a bridle-path turns rt over a
spur of J. en-Nur, and then continues
for 2 hrs. over the plain, whence there
is a gentle ascent to
Kurt Kulak, Tardequia (5 hrs.), a
small dirty village with a good spring
and an old kh&n. About 1 hr. from
tho village tho crest of the low hills
is reached, and an easy descent of | hr.
then brings us to a ruined gateway,
Karanlikt or Dtmir Kapu , apparently
the 41 Cilician Oates. 1 * It is of blade
basalt, hence its name, and has no
ornament A few minutes later tho
plain of Issue is entered, near a largo
mound that marks an ancient site.
The track now runs to tho shore of
the Gulf of Skonderdn, and follows it,
crossing several rivulets, and passing
(1.) a tumulus, to the Vdi Chat , anct
Pinarus (V), which is forded 2 hrs.
before reaching
Fiyas, Baiae (7| hra), the seat of n
kaimakom — a miserable village with
a fine old khin, a deserted baz&r, and
a castle. Towards the close of last
oentury it was seized by tho Turkoman
chief, Kuchuk All Oghlu, and was
then a flourishing place, with many
public buildings erected in the reign
of Suleiman I., and a large trade with
Egypt Kuchuk All, who levied blaok-
rnall on all caravans, seised foreign
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192
■ Route 66. — Skander&n. r
ships, and imprisoned the Dutch where he left his sick. He then
Consul at Aleppo, died in 1808. Hie pushed on to the Syrian (Beilan) pass,
eon, Dada Bey. haring committed where he heard that Danne had ooou-
eimilar depredations, the Porte fitted pied Issue in his rear. He at onoe
out an expedition whioh destroyed turned back, reached the Syrian gates
Piyas and reduced it to a mass of (Jonah's Pillar) at midnight, ana tlio
ruins.' battle took place next day. Darius,
Beyond Piyas the road crosses a who had crossed the mountains by the
river, apparently the Ptnaruz, and Amanian (Baghche) pass, reached
runs inland over rather stony ground the plain by the Amanian (Toprak
for 1} hrs., when it touches the shore Kaleh) gates, and, after occupying
again. We now cross two streams, Issus, pushed his troops forward to the
one of which, issuing from a deep deft Pinarus. Here, aooording to Arrian,
in the mountains, is perhaps the Oartu$ the plain was so narrow that, though
of Xenophon, and reach a guard-house there was suffident room for the
near the village of Sarueki (L). Here Macedonians to deploy, the Persians
the mountains approaoh the sea, and, oould not utilise their large force,
just beyond the guard-house, a rooky From this it would appear that the
spur is crossed on which are the ruins stream 8. of Piyas ana not the Deli
of a castle, and two pillars of black and Ohai is the Pinarus. From Jonah's
white stone, forming part of an old Pillar the road runs partly along the
gateway known as shore, and partly over a broad spur to
the levd ground on which is
Jonah's Pillar (2| hra), the “ Syrian
Gates." The Plain of Issus which has Skanderfin, or Alexandretta, Alex-
just boon traversed is entered by three andria ad Issum (1} hrs ), the port of
roads celebrated in ancient history, Aleppo aqd Antioch. The town is
each of whioh bail a natural and an very unhealthy owing to the pesti-
artifioial 44 gate " — that through the lential marsh behind it. This marsh,
Oilician pass, Oulth Boghaz (d. 163) in which may be seen tho ruins of
and Karanlik Kapu; that through houses once occupied by merchants,
the Amanian (Baghche) pass (Rte. 99), was drained by Ibrahim Pasha, and
and the Toprak Kaleh gap ; and that until tho canal was allowed to silt up,
through the Syrian (Betlan) pass, tiie place was quite healthy. Tho
and Jonah's Pillar. This explains town has recently made great progress;
tho events preceding the celebrated new houses have been built, the streets
Battle of lutu. Alexander, having have been paved, the water supply
reached Mallus by the Ciliciun pass, improved, and the marsh partly
marched round the head of tho gulf, drained, ’l’hero arc British aud other
through the Karanlik Kapu, to Issus, European Consulates.
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( 198 )
SECTION II.
EASTERN ANATOLIA AND TRANSCAUCASIA.
EASTERN ANATOLIA.
Qeegrapliy.— Anatolia is the country, in greet part an elevated table-land,
which lies between the Black Sea on the N. ana the roots of Mt. Taurus on the
S., and extends from Anti Taurus on the W. to the Russian and Persian frontiers
on the E. On the N. the plateau is buttressed by the coast range which rises
abruptly from the Black Sea, and on the 8. by the lofty range of Taurus which
dominates the plains of Cilicia, Northern Syria, and Mesopotamia. On the W.
and E. there is a more gradual rise from the lower plateaux of Western Anatolia
and Persia. Above the general level of tho plateau rise ranges of mountains
whose general direction is from W. to E., or from W.S.W. to E.N.E., and whose
peaks, as in the case of Ararat, sometimes attain very considerable altitudes.
These ranges are separated by high -lying valleys or plains, through which the
rivors flow K. and W. before they enter tho deep, nigged, and as yet imperfectly
explored gorges through which their waters escape to lower lovels. Thus imme-
diately 8. of the coast rango are the valleys of the Kelkit Irmak (Aye*#), and the
Choruk Su ( Acampsis ), ana beyond these are tho valleys of the Aims (A raxes), the
Kara Su (IK . Euphrates), and the Murad Su ( E . Euphrates ), and the basin of Lake
Tan. The approaches to the plateau from the N. and S. aro few and, with the
exception of that from Trebisond (Rte. 67), difficult ; whilst communication on
the plateau, especially from E. to W., is comparatively easy.
In proceeding S. from the Black Sea, there are well marked changes in the
character of the country and its scenery. The Northern slopes of the coast range
aro clothed with vegetation which, in some of the more confined valleys, is almost
tropical in its luxuriance. In this favoured district mountain torrents rush sea-
ward through sylvan scenery of rare beauty, and high above the topmost pine-
trees picturesque crags of rock are boldly outlined against the sky. On the
plateau there is little timber. The valleys are broad expanses of arable land,
and the hilly tracts which separate them are generally oovered with grass. In the
basin of Lake Van, where the volcanic soil is exceptionally rich and productive,
local Armenian tradition places the Garden of Eden. On the grass-covered hills
are the summer pasture grounds of the nomad Kurds. The aspect, on the whole,
is dreary and monotonous, but there are many picturesque spots where the rivers
break through the intervening ridges. Moses of Chorene and Lazarus of Pharb
have celebrated the beauty of the Ararat district ; whilst Lake Van, with its blue
waters, its girdle of mountains, and the line masses of Sipan D. and Nimrud D .
rising abruptly from its shores, presents a charming variety of wild, romantic
scenery.
On the 8. the plateau breaks down to the lowlands of Mesopotamia in a series
of rugged rock-terraces which are intersected by deep and almost inaccessible
ravines. In this wild district— a prolongation of Mt. Taunts— the bare mountain
peaks, especially near the Persian frontier, rise abruptly to a great altitude, and
their lower slopes are sometimes clothed with forests of oak ana pine. Here and
there, in the valleys and on the terraces, are smalj fertile plains, but, as a rule,
[Turkey.] 0
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194
Introduction. — Eastern Anatolia.
the uruhle laud id lardy sufficient to meet the modest requirements of tlie scanty
population. The scenery is often grand and impressive, more especially in the
magnificent gorges through which the Sihfin ana the Jilmn, the Euphrates and
the Tigris, and their principal tributaries tiow. The great gorge of the Euphrates,
which extends, almost without a break, from Egin (p. 251) to Samsat (p. 258), and
the deeply cut ravines of the Bohton and the Zab, present at almost every turn
views that for wildness and grandeur can scarcely be surpassed.
Tho physical features of tho country urc reflected in its history. The com puni-
tive isolation of the valleys ou tho plateau, especially in winter, explains the
tendency to separation which tho Armenian provinces displayed whenever the
central power was weak. The rugged mountain districts have always been the
home of hardy mountaineers who, generally independent, have from time to time
unwillingly submitted to control ; and they have also been the harbour of refuge
to which the lowlandcrs have fled under stress of persecution or war. Through the
long valleys of the plateau Seljuks, Mongols, and Tatars have swarmed to the
E l under of tho richer districts to the west ; and through them Osmanli Sultans
ave marched to the conquest of Persia. In one, a Byzantine Emperor was made
captive by the Seljuk Sultan Alp Arslan ; in another, Jclal-cd-din, the famous
sovereign of Khuresw, was vanquished by Ala-ed-din of Rfim, in one of tho
bloodiest battles in the annals of lsl&m ; and in a third, tho effeminate successor of
Ala-ed-din was overthrown by the soldiers of Jenghiz KMu. Once only, and that
in the depth of winter, has an army crossed from Mesopotamia to the Euxinc.
Tho terms Lazistan, Erinenistan or Armenia, and Kurdistan, that is the countries
of the Lazis, the Armenians, and the Kurds, are often used in a general sense to
denote respectively the coast range, the plateau, and the mountains to the south.
But no definite limits can be assigned to these countries, and the terms arc not
ollicially recognised. 1
History. — In the inscriptions of • Assurnatsirpal a kingdom is mentioned called
Umrdhu, the Hebrew Ararat , of which the classical equivalent is Armenia. This
kingdom lay to the N. of Assyria, and its native name was Biaina*, the Boutina
of Ptolemy and the Ivan of Cedrenus. According to Prof. Sayce the known
kings of Biainas were Sardinia I. (b.c. 888), who introduced cuneiform writing ;
Ispuinis; Menuas (b.c. *810) ; Argistis I., who subdued the Minni, and defeated
Assurdan, king of Assyria ; Sarduris II. (n.c:. 743), who, driven northwards by
Tiglath rileser II., made Armavir (p. 227) the scat of his government ; Ursa
(b.c. 714), who was defeated by the Assyrians \ Argistis II. (b.o. 705) ; Erimenas ;
Rusos ; and Sardinia III. (b.c. 640). The people of Bcainas were polytheists ; and
their language was neither Aryan nor Semitic. They have left numerous inscrip-
tions in cuneiform (noticed in the Routes), which thus far have only been imper-
fectly read. Assyrian influence has also left its trace in such names as Shemtram -
rud (Van) and Nimrud />. The Armenian * do not appear to havo arrived in tho
country before b.c. 640 ; and the name Armenia first occurs in an inscription of
Darius Hystaspes (b.c. 521-485). During the 6th, 5th, and 4th centuries the
country formed part of the Persian Empire, and was governed by satraps, but the
hill tribes were not completely subdued. It was during this period (b.c. 401-0)
that the
Ton Thousand made their remarkable march. After the treacherous seizure of
their commanders on the 1. bank of the Zab (p. 305), the Greeks elected other
leaders, and having, by the advice of Xenophon, destroyed their superfluous baggage,
commenced their arduous retreat. Crossing the Zab, apparently where the river
is still fordable in late autumn, they marched up the 1. bank of the Tigris by
Larissa ( Nimrud ) and Mespila (Knyunjtk, p. 294), and forced their way through
a hilly tract, probably by Zukho (p. 246), occupied by the enemy. They then
reached a spot, which must have been near Pinek (p. 246), where the mountains of
the Carduchi descended abruptly to the river. Here it was customary to cross
the Tigris and travel W. by the high road to the Euphrates, which would have
been their direct route towards Ionia. But the river being unfordablc and impos-
sible to cross otherwise, in face of tlie strong hostile force on I lie rt. bank, they
determined to strike N. into the mountains of the Ourdm-hi, with a view' to reacl^
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Introduction. — Eastern Anatolia.
195
iug Uic highlands of Armenia, where they might ford the Tigris and Euphrates
near their sources, and so reach the Buxine. After seven days of almost con-
tinual fighting with the warlike Cardnchi, daring which they experienced their
greatest losses, they reached the valley of the Centrites (Bohtan Su), which
separated the Cardnchi from the Persian satrapy of Armenia.
Tho Centrites was crossed by a difficult ford more than breast high, probably
that near Til (p. 245) ; and thence after two days’ march they reached the sources
of the Tigris, which must have been those above Bifelis. The next river passed,
after three days’ further march, was the Toleboas,— apparently tho Kara Sh
(p. 244), which flows through the plain of Mush. Four days' march from the
Teleboas they halted for a week at some Armenian villages near a castle, pro-
bably the ancient fortress of Melatgerd (p. 231). In this case their route would
havo been along the easy road, by Lis and .Gop, over tho Jiulanik plain — thickly
populated now as it was when the Ten Thousand marched through it. They
would thus have left Lake Van to the rt concealed by intervening hills and
mountains, a circumstance which may explain the omission, of any notice of the
lake by Xenophon. It was in traversing these plains that the Greeks first made
acquaintance with the Armenian houses which must have closely resembled those
of tho present day. As they had in this part of their march to wade through
snow, the warm dwellings must have seemed a delightful shelter, especially as they
contained provisions ana beer. At that time there was plenty of firewood ; now
the villages have to depend upon tetek for their fuel.
After leaving the Armenian villages the Greeks appear to have traversed districts
inhabited by mountain tribes that were not subject to Persia. The next point
mentioned is the Phasis, in the neighbourhood of which was a people called
PhasUni. The name is perhaps retained in that of the Patti a plain (p. 222).
This district was possibly reached by following the road through ZeutUan (p. 223),
and the Delibaba pass (Etc. 79), or perhaps that by Khinis Kaleh (Rte. 82). Their
course henceforward is extremely obscure, but having reached the Passin plain
they would naturally follow the route through the plain of Enerfim to Baiburt and
Trebbond (Rte. 67). If so. we may identify the Harpasus with tho Choruk #«,
and placo Gymnias near Baiburt. Sir H. Layard was of opinion that the Greeks,
on leaving Centrites, inarched by Jledvan (p. 245 ) and K her tan to the headwaters
of the BiUis Su, which he identified with tne Teleboas, and that they then followed
the road to Khinis Kaleh and Hassan Kaleh (Rte. 87). lie also held that they
did not pass near Erzerftm, as they would in that case have seen the sea for the
first time at a distance of not more than 6 or 8 parasangs from Trebbond.
Xenophon makes it five days’ march from Mount Theches to Trebbond ; but here,
os elsewhere in the narrative, u it is utterly impossible to explain the distances
given.” The “ Holy Mountain ” was probably some point on the Kolal Dagh ,
and in tho modem Tthkt there may perhaps be a trace of the name Theches.
Armenia, the Hayatdani, or Hoik of the Armenians, has been tho scene of almost
continual wars, and its political limits have been subject to frequent variation.
At present it is divided between Turkey, Russia, and Persia. Passing over its
more or less mythical history, we come to Tigran ei, the national hero, and friend
of Cyrus (n.c. 555), whose dynasty (the Haikian) came to an end with Vahe,
killed at the battle of Arbela (p. 805). In b.c. 817 the Armenians threw off tho
Macedonian yoke, and made Ardvates king ; but on his death, circ. b.c. 284, they
submitted to the Seleucidae. About b.c. 190, after the defeat of Antiochus the
Great by the Romans, Artaxias and Zadriades freed their country, and it was at
this time divided into the two kingdoms of Armenia Major, E. of the Euphrates,
and Armenia Minor , lying chiefly W. of that river. Artaxias, who became king
of Armenia Major, aifordod an asylum to Hannibal, and established his capital at
Artaxata (Ardathad, p. 229). Zadriades became king of Armenia Minor and
ruled at Garcathiocerta ( Knarput , p. 265), in Sophenc. About B.c. 150 the
Parthian king, Mithridates I., established his brother Valarsaces (Vagharshag) in
Armenia, and so founded the Arsacid dynasty. The most celebrated successor of
Valarsaces was Tigranes II., who conquered Armenia Minor, Syria, Ac., and built
Tigranocerta as his capital. lie joined his father-in-law, Mithridates of Pontus,
.in the war against the Romans, bnt submitted to Poinpoy, and was allowed to
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196
Introduction . — Eastern Anatolia.
retain Armenia, llo remained an ally of Rome till his death, circ. n.c. 65 ; but
his son Artavasdes, who followed a different policy, was taken by Autony and
beheaded at Alexandria, u.c. 80, by order of Cleopatra. A period of anarchy
ensued, during which Armenia was a bone of contention between the Romans and
the Parthians. In a. d. 68, Erovant, an Arsacid in the female lino, made himself
master of the kingdom ; but, after some years, he was driven oat by Ardoshes
(Exidarus), a uioro direct descendant of the Arsacids.
In a.d. 282 Chosroes the Great of Armenia was assassinated and his kingdom
annexed to Persia. A massacre of the royal family followed, from which Tiridatcs
alone escaped. Tiridates, in a.d. 259, regained the kingdom with Roman help,
and, circ. 276, was converted by S. Gregory, “the Illuminator ” : he was the first
sovereign to establish Christianity as the religion of king, nobles, and people.
In some districts, especially in the province of Daron, where the priests of the
old religion offered a stubborn resistance, the new faith was established by the
sword. Armenia now became the scene of a long struggle between the Romans
and Persians, and each Persian invasion was followed by a relentless persecution
of the Christians. This lasted till a.d. 890, when Theodosias ceded to Persia the
eastern and larger portion of the kingdom, which was thenceforward called /Vr*-
armenia. The western portion was annexed by Rome, and Arsaces IV., the
nominal king of Armenia, was appointed governor. It afterwards formed (tart of
the Diocesis PorUica. An Arsacid was made governor of Persarmenia, but after
428 that district was ruled by Persian governors ( Marzban a), under whom the
Christians were terribly persecuted. There were frequent insurrections, the most
important being that of Vartan, “ the Mamegonian.”
In tho 7th ceutury Persarmenia was conquered by the Arabs, and afterwards
ruled by Arab Einirs nominated by the Khalifs of Damascus and Baghdad. About
718, when the Arabs were distracted by civil war, ABhod, a member of the Ragratid
family, which claimed Jewish origin, made himself master of Central and N.
Armenia, and founded a dynasty which ruled Georgia until its annexation to
Russia in 1801, and ended in Armenia with Gagig II. in 1079. In 991 and again
in 1021, Basil II. invaded Armenia, which was at that time divided into several
principalities. Great changes were taking place in Asia on the dedino of the
empire of the Khalifs, and Basil’s policy appears to have been to obtain possession
of the great Armenian fortresses, and make them the first line of defence of the
empire. Senekherim, prince of Vasburagan (Kan), exchanged his principality for
the vice-royalty of Se bastes (SivatY. and the adjacent territory ; and the King of
Ani engaged to cede bis kingdom to Basil after his death. In 1046 Constantine IX.
compelled Gagig II. to surrender Ani, and receive in exchange certain estates in
Cappadocia. Thus “the oldest Christian kingdom was erased from the list of
inaependent states by a Christian emperor.’' In 1042 the Seljdk Turks raided
Vasburagan ; in 1048 they plundered and burned Arzen ; and in 1050, under
Toghrul Bey, they invaded the Empire, but retired after an unsuccessful attack on
Monzikert (Melatgerd^ p. 281). In 1068 Alp Arslan, Toghrul’s successor, con-
quered and laid waste the kingdom of Iberia, and in 1064 he took Ani, then held
by a Byzantine garrison. The Selj&ks, in advancing, drove the cultivators from
the plains, so that the country might be occupied by their own nomad tribes.
Many Armenians escaped to the mountains ; others followed the footsteps of those
who nod already migrated with Senekherim and Gagig. The exiles settled down
chiefly iu S.E. Cappadocia, where they founded Egin, Arnbkir , Albiituii, and
other towns, whilst the more adventurous spirits pressed southward, and presently
established themselves S. of tho Taurus. There they founded a state known as
“Lesser Armenia” (soe General Introduction ).
In 1071 Roman us IV. was defeated and mode prisoner near Jfelasgerd by Alp
Arslan, and Armenia was afterwards ruled by Seljflk governors until the death of
Sanjar (1167), tho last of the “Great *’ Seljuks. The country then split up into
petty states ruled by Arabs, Kurds, and Seljflks, until Ala-ed-din of Rfim
defeated Jelal-ed-din of Kharezm near Gurgenit (1229), and extended his frontier
.to Akhlat and Lake Van. From 1286 to 1248 the Mongols overran Armenia,
sacking towns and laying waste the country, and defeating Ghiyas-cd-din of Rfim
near Erzingan (1248). The rule of the Mongols came to an end with the advance
of Tim&r, whose operations (1886-1401) still further impoverished the country.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Introduction. — Eastern Anatolia.
197
After TimQr’s death Armenia formed part of tho states fonnded by the Ak-and
Kara Koytmln ; bat most of it passed to the Osmanlis after the victorious cam-
paigns of Muhammad II. (1478), and Selim I. (1514). The country suffered
much daring the wars between Turkey and Persia in the 16th and 17th centuries,
and in 1604 8hah Abbas forcibly transplanted 40,000 Armenians, and settled
them down at Julfa, a suburb of Isfahan. See also Central Introtluciion.
Kurdistan consists, roughly speaking, of the wild mountain district (/Jersim)
between the two arms of tho Euphrates; of the rugged range of Taurus from
Kbarput to the Persian frontier ; of the lower hills of Mt. Mnsius, 8. ot tlio
Tigris ; and of the mountains that extend from the E. side of Lake Van south-
ward to 8oleimanieh, and Karman-shah. These districts appear to have been
always inhabited by hardy mountaineers,— the Kardu of the Assyrian inscrip-
tions, the CardttcM of Xenophon,— whose organisation was tribal, and who
yielded a reluctant obedience, tempered by freauent rebellion, to Persians,
Macedonians, Parthians, Sassanians, and Arabs. Tne most flourishing period was
the 12th century, after Salah-ed-din, of the Rewendi branch of the Hadabani tribe,
had founded the Ayubito dynasty of 3yria. Kurd chiefs ruled parts of Armenia,
and established themselves as far south as Yemen. Since then tbo Kurds have
been temporarily subject to Mongols and Tatars ; and they are now divided
between Turkey and Persia, who havo greatly curtailed their independent power.
In modem times the Kurds have risen in 1634 ; in 1843 under Bear Khin Bey of
Bohtan ; and in 1880 under Sheikh Obeid-nllah of Shemdinan. On each occasion
the rebellions were firmly suppressed. .
The People.—' The coast range is inhabited by Lazis, Turks. and, near Trebizond,
by a Greek-speaking people. On the plateau are Turks, Armenians, Kurds, and
Persians; and. in the mountains to tho S., are Kurds, Ncstorians, Armenians,
and Yezidis. In tho country S. of tho coast range tbo population of the plains
is, as a rule, predominating! v Armenian, whilst the majority of the bill population
is Kurd. But part of tho Kurdistan mountains is occupied by the Nestorians,
and in many places there is a large Armenian population occupying, usually,
the more open and low-lying districts. For many centuries the rich plains of
Mesopotamia, and the fertile valleys of Armenia, were overrun by nomads —
Arabs, Turks, Mongols, and Tatars— whose one thought seems to have bora to
depopulate the districts they traversed, and convert them into pasture-grounds.
The Arameans who escaped from the Mesopotamian lowlands are represented by
the Nestorians of to-day. The Armenians who took refuge amongst the Kurdish
mountaineers were reduced to the state of quasi -serfdom, in which some of their
descendants still live. The Kurds are partly nomadic and partly sedentary,
and the periodical migrations of the nomads are a fertile source of disorder. (For
notes on the various races see Introduction.)
Climate. — On the coast the climate, in summer, is relaxing, and near the mouths
of the rivers malarious and unhealthy. On the hill-sides it is pleasant sod healthy.
In winter the climate is temperate, but there is much rain in late autumn and
B , and heavy snow on the mountains. On the olatean the climate is dry and
y, with great extremes of beat and cold. The summer is short, dry, and
hot, and the dust and glare are then trying. The winter is very severe ; the tem-
perature on the plains frequently falls to 15° below zero F., and the dry piercing
cold is often intensified by strong winds. Snow falls in late autumn and covers
tho whole face of the country till March. The limit of eternal snow is about
11,000 ft. In consequence of tho intense cold and drifting enow during the
winter storms and blizzards, many of the passes can only be crossed with difficulty
and sometimes danger. Men and animals are often frozen to death or buried in
the snow drifts when endeavouring to cross the higher passes. When the mow
melts the rivers are greatly swelled, and only passable where there are bridges.
On account of the severity of tho climate the villages are generally built on
gentle slopes in which the houses are partially excavated: The earth from the
excavation is thrown back again upon tho rafters of the roof, and pressed down
so as to form a solid mass which keeps out cold and heat, but is not im|iervious
Digitized by L^ooQle
198
Introduction . — Transcaucasia .
to rain and melting snow. In winter, when the flat roofs are covered with snow,
the presence of a village is often only detected by the dirt near the doors, and
the people standing about.
In the lower parts of the Kurdistan mountains the summers are very hot, and
in winter little snow falls, though the weather is cold and boisterous. The deeply
cut valleys, especially those in which rice is cultivated, are hot, unhealthy, and
malarious in summer and autumn.
The best season for travelling is from June to the end of October.
Outfit, Travelling, *«.— Excepting on the Trebizond-Krzerfim road, and on some
of the chaussets which are passable for arabas , all travelling is on horseback.
For outfit see Introduction. For winter travelling waim clothing is required.
The hotels are noted in the Index.
Sport.-— There is a large variety of game. Bear, panther, wolf, red deer,
moufflon, ibex, wild sheep, and the giant partridge are found on the mountains :
and great and little bustard, grey and red-legged partridge, pelican, snipe, and
wild fowl on the plains, hills, and lakes. There is excellent trout fishing in nearly
all the streams.
Books, 4o.— St. Martin, * Mdmoires sur l’Armdnie * ; Phahnazarian, * Esquisse
de Thistoire de l’Armdnie * ; Texier, ‘ Description de TArmdnie * : Texier and
Pullan, 1 Byzantine Architecture ’ ; Layard, ‘ Nineveh * ; Layard, ‘ Early Adven-
tures * ; Tozer. ‘ Turkish Armenia and Eastern A. Minor * ; Curzon, ‘ Armenia
and Krzerflm*; Binder ‘ An Kurdistan, dec.’: Bishop, ‘Journeys in Persia mid
Kurdistan’; Bord, 1 L* Uni vers Pittorcsque, Armenie*; Millingen, ‘Wild Life
among the Kurds * ; < -rough, ‘Armenians, Kurds, and Turks.’ Jfap. — Kiepert.
TRANSCAUCASIA.*
Ooography. — Transcaucasia, or the Asiatic provinces of Russia S. of the Cau-
casus, includes the old kingdom of Georgia, and a portion of that of Armenia.
It consists partly of a continuation of we coast range, and of the plateau of
Eastern Anatolia, and partly of a cluster of mountains, the “ Minor 1 Caucasus,”
separated from the main range of the Caucasus by the valley of the Kui\ aud
from the Anatolian plateau by the valleys of the Arpa Chat , and of the Aras
below its junction with that river. Next to Mt. Ararat, 17,260 ft., which belongs
to the plateau, the highest point is Alageuz 7)., 18,436 ft., N.W. of Krivan. The
country is fertile and well-watered, and includes much arable land.
History. — The history of Armenia has been already told ; for that of Georgia
reference should be made to special works. In 1801 the King of Georgia re-
nounced his crown in favour of the Tsar of Russia, and the Bagratid dynasty,
which had lasted for over 1000 years, came to au end. Imeritia and Gurian
followed the example of Georgia. In 1827 Paskievich, in the campaign against
Persia, took Erivon and Tabriz ; and by the Treaty of Turkman-chai (10tli
February, 1828), the Russian boundary was extended to the Aras (. I razes), up to
its junction with the Arpa Chai. In June, 1828, Paskievich crossed the Arpa
Chai and marched against the Turks. By the end of the year he had taken Poti,
Akhaltaikli, Akkalkalaki. Kars, and Bayezid ; and on the 27th May, 1829, after
defeating the Turks at Zevin (p. 215), he entered Erzerum. On the 27th July
he again defeated the Turks at Abort, N. of Baiburt, and brought the campaign to
an end. By the Treaty of Adrianople (28th August, 1829), Russia obtained
Poti, Akhaltsikh, and Akhalkalaki, and her boundary was pushed forward to the
Arpa Chai. The campaign of 1853-56 left the frontier unaltered. During the
campaign of 1877-78 the Turks, after obtaining temporary successes at Zevin ,
Eshek Elias (p. 222), Yagni , and Kizil Tepe, were completely defeated on the
slopes of tho Alaja D. t lost Kars, and were driven into Krzerfini. By the
Treaty of Berlin (13th July, 1878), which followed the war, Russia obtained
Bat fan, Artlahan, and Kan, and her frontier was advanced to its present position.
* See also ' Handbook to liusaiu.'
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction.-^— Transcaucasia* 199
The Peoplo. — It is impossible within the limits of the Handbook to give any
useful description of the various races in Transcaucasia. For such information
the traveller should consult the standard works on the country. The Moslem
population of the districts ceded to Russia by the Treaty of Berlin has to a latge
extent migrated to Turkish territory ; and its place has partly been taken by
settlers from S. Russia, and by Greek and Armenian emigrants from Turkey.
The Climate is at all seasons very pleasant, excepting towards the Persian
frontier during the summer months. The best teuton* for travelling are spring
and autumn, but the higher districts can l>e more conveniently visited in summer.
Outfit, Travelling, ke, — The outfit should include on English saddle, a portable
bath, an air cushion, a small cork bed (or a bag to be filled with hay and UBed as
a mattress at stations), and a good supply of Keating’s insect-powder. A small
cooking apparatus, and a store of tea, spirits, candles, preserved' meats, Ac.,
should be taken. ' (See also Introduction .) At the stations travellers will generally
find only a samovar or tea-urn, and nothing but eggs and black bread to eat ; beef
and mutton are rarely obtainable. The utmost the traveller will be able to procure
on his journey (except in towns) is very bad soup, or a fowl newly killed ;
vegetables and fruit are very scarce.
A passnort, duly countersigned, is requisite to enter the Russian Empire, and
the traveller should constantly carry it with him. At the first town, tho traveller
shoiild apply to the governor for a podorojna, or order for post-horses. These
orders are or two kinas, the “ single sealed ” ana the M double sealed.” The latter,
which is not always easy to obuun, exempts the traveller from all turnpike tolls,
and entitles him to insist, at the post stations, on having the first horses
available.
The usual mode of travelling on the post-roads is by troika, a small, strong, but
rather heavily-built open cart, resembling a shell mounted on four wheels. It
holds three persons, including tho driver, and a little baggage, and is drawn by
throe horses driven abreast. The expense and rapidity of this mode of travelling
depend on the podorqjna with which tho traveller is provided. If two or three
travel together with luggage, jt is cheaper and less uncomfortable to buy a
tar ant at, which at night affords accommodation superior to that of a crowded
station house. Fresh horses are obtained at every statidp, the distances between
the Stations varying from 8 to 22 versts, according to Uib nature of the rood:
'The hire of post-horse* is 3 cop. a verst for each horse (8 Versts =2 m.) ; no charge
is made for the troika, but the drivers expect a present of 16 to 20 cop. at each
stage. Before leaving a town it is necessary to secure a considerable number of
roubles in paper and small silver coin, wherewith to pay at feach station for post*
horses. In most parts of the country travelling is jierfectly safe, especial Iv
when official countenance has been obtained ; and wherever it is attended with
danger, no one is allowed to proceed without the protection of a sufficient guard.
Travellers should, however, avoid being overtaken on the rood by darkness, unless
attended by an escort.
Sport. — Large and small game are found in some of thd districts, and there
good trout- fishing in several of the mountain streams* '
Books, to — Telfer. ‘The Crimea and Tiinscaucksia ' ; Bryce, ‘Transcaucasia
and Arartit ’ ; Thielmann, * Caucasus, Persia, and Turkey ’ ; Brosset, * Voy.
Archeol. dans In Georgie et dnns l’Anmfnie.’: Map .— Russian official map. . ...»
Digitized by L^ooQle
200
Route 67. — Trebtzond.
ROUTES.
llOUTR 07.
TREBlZOND-BAIBURT-ERZERUM.
MILKS.
Jevlxlik \U
El gin* Kbin .... 24#
GQunuh-kbinch . • .21#
Khsdrtk m
Bsiburt 18#
KopKhin 25
llljft 41#
Enerflm (TkeodosiopulU) . .11#
N.B.— The dUUnoes ire In measured miles
slong the chautsrt. Tbs times *re : — GUmwsh-
klmneh (27 bra.) ; Bsiburt (16 bra.) i Eracrum
(24 bra.).
Trebisond, Trapezus, the chief town
of a vil&yet, and residence of the Vali,
occupies a remarkable position on the
S. coast of the Black Sea. 44 Here
two deep valleys, descending from
tho interior, run parallel at no great
distuneo from one another down to tho
sea, indosiug between them a sloping
table of ground — whence the original
name of the place, Trapezus, or the
4 Table-land ’ — which falls in steep
rocky precipices on the two sides.
The whole is still enclosed by the
Byzantine walls, which follow the
line of the cliffs, and are carried along
the sea-face; and the upper part of
the level, which is separated from the
lower by an inner cross wall, forms
the castle, which at the highest point,
where a sort of neck is formed between
the two valleys, is the keep which
crowns the whole. On either side,
about half way between this keep and
tho sea, tho valleys aro crossed by
massive bridges , and on the further
side of the westernmost of these, away
from the city, a large tower and other
fortifications remain, which must have
served to defend tho approach from
this quarter. It is difficult to con-
ceive anything more picturesque than
these fortifications and their surround-
ings.” Many of the towers in the
walls are covered with creepers, while
the gordons that occupy tho two
narrow valleys teem with luxuriant
vegetation.
Trapezus was a colony of Sinope,
and was a flourishing town when the
Ten Thousand found repose in it, and
were hospitably treated by the in-
habitants. Under the Homans it was
an important place. Trajan made it
tho capital of Pontus Cappadocicus,
and Hadrian provided it with a new
harbour and several public buildings.
In the reign of Valerian it was sacked
by the Goths. JuBtinian built a
church, a castle, and an aqueduct,
which he named after 8. Eugenius.
Some ceuturios later, when Constanti-
nople was occupied by the Latins
(1204), Alexius, a sciou of the family
of tho Comneni, entered Trcbizond
with an army of mercenaries, assumed
the title of Grand-Comnenus, and
founded an empire on tho shore of
tho Euxino. Tho euipiro, though
it never attained to real greatness,
lasted till 1461, when the capital was
taken by Muhammad II. after a two
months’ siege. Tho palace of Trcbi-
zond 44 was famed for its magnificence,
the court for its luxury and elaborate
ceremonial, while at the same time it
was frequently a hotbed of intrigue
and immorality." The imperial
family were renowned for their beauty,
and the princesses were sought os
brides not only by Byzantine Em-
perors, but by tho Moslem rulers of
Persia, and the chiefs of tho Mongols
and Turkomans. The Grand-Comneni
were patrons of art and learning; the
library of the palace was filled with
valuable MSS., and the city was
adorned with splendid buildings.
“The writers of that time speak with
enthusiasm of its lofty towers, of the
churches and monasteries iu tho
suburbs, and especially of the gardens,
orchards, and olive groves."
Amongst the principal antiquities
are the uuUs : the castle, which no
longer contains tho inscription com-
memorating the restoration of tho
Digitized by
Google
Route Q7.~- Trebizond.
201
public buildings by Justinian; ami
the Orta-hissar Jam f , once a church
dedicated to the Ponagia Chrysoce-
phalus, M virgin of the golden head,”
which is a well-preserved specimen
of n Byzantine edifice. On tno other
aide of the eastern ravine, occupying
a striking position opposite the castle,
is the Yeni Juma Jami\ formerly the
Charch of 8. Eagcnius, the patron
saint of Trebizond. It is a perfectly
plain building, but excellent in its
proportions, forming a complete Greek
cross, with a fine cupola, which is
pierced with numerous small windows.
Owing to its commanding situation,
this church, to which a monastery
was originally attached, played an
important part iii the history of the
city, and was the scone of the crisis of
the great siege which ended so dis-
astrously for the Seljhk army under
the son of Ala-ed-din I. The Imdret
JamV , in the suburbs, contains the
tomb of the mother of Selim I. In
the courtyard of the Metropolitan
Greek Church is a monument to
Solomon, King of Georgia, nndcr a
stone canopy. There are dagularlv
few remains of the original Greek
colony. Coins and other small antiques
are plentiful but very dear.
About 2 m. W., in a conspicuous
position overlooking the tea, is &
Sophia , the moet important of all the
churches, built by Manuel I. Though
now a mosque it is seldom used as
such, and the fabrio is in good pre-
servation. The pavement of many
coloured marbles is very beantiful.
The moral paintings, amongst which
was a portrait of Manuel, have been
oovered with whitewash. The outer
porch, with its triple arches and
elaborately carved capitals, is interest-
ing. About 100 ft from the W. end
is a tall massive campanile , from the
top of which there is a fltio view.
Some part of tho inner walls lias been
oovered by frescoes, the colours of
whioh are still fresh, but they have
been dreadfully defaced. On the face
of the Box Tepe, which rises behind
the Christian Qnorter of tho town, is
the Nunnery of the Vanagia Thro*
locus. In the vestibule of the church
was the lino fresoo representing tho
life-sized figures of the Emperor
Alexius lit., his mother Irene, and
the Empress Theodora, clad in their
imperial robes (Texier ami Pnllon.
Byzantine Architecture ), which dis-
appeared during repairs executed in
Tho population of Trebizond is
about 4u,000, of whom some 19,000
are Christians. Tho Moslems live in
tho walled town; the Christians, the
bazars, shops, and khdns, are outside
the walls. The older houses gener-
ally contain a ground floor only, and,
each having a walled garden round it,
Scarcely a house is visible from the
streets. When the trees are in leaf
the town is very picturesque. There
are 30 mosques, 16 khins, 13 baths,
and about 30 churches. There is no
safe port ; the anchorage is in a small
open bay, and in stormy weather
snips run to Platans, a roadstead 7 m.
W. (p. 4). Great Britain, and all
tho larger European States, have Con-
sulates, and thcro is a branch of the
Ottoman Bank.
Pretty silver-thread bracelets and
filagree work ore made at Trebizond
and sold to travellers. Tho neigh-
bouring mountains nbonml in rich
veins of copper and lead ore ; but the
mode of working the mines prevents
the development of this source of
national wealth. Fruit, wax, tallow,
boxwood, hazel nuts, tobacco, and
linseed are of local production. Much
of the trade of N.W. Persia, consisting
mainly in exports, silk stuffs, carpets,
tumbeki, and raisins, passes through
the port
The Romans arc supposed to havo
carried on their trade with India vid
Trebizond; and the Genoese con-
veyed tho productions of tho East
from the same place, through Con-
stantinople, to Europe. Trebizond,
besides being the port of Erzerflm,
Tabriz, and Teheran, was onoe tho
chief entrepdt between Central Asia
and Europe ; and it is not difficnlt to
perceive that, from its geographical
position, it would have maintained
its important character were it not
Digitized by L^ooQle
202
Route 67 . — Zigana Kltdn .
for the railway facilities afforded by
Russia which render competition by
caravan routes impossible. The
Batftm - Tiflis - Baku Railway tends
greatly to turn tho channel of com-*
memo from Trebizond into Eussiau
territory, as it helps to open the route
to Erivon, Tabriz, and tho whole of
Persia. Russia, however, for tho sake
of her own manufactures, is keeping
the railway closed to the transit of
foreign goods. The natural line of
commercial intercourse between the
Black Sea and Persia, is by Trebizond,
Erzcr&m, and Bayezid, and it is of
great importance that this be kept
open. In 1872 the Turks completed
the chaussde to Erzerftm described
below, and this is now the caravan
route to Persia.
The ehaussie soon (} m.) leaves the
coast and, turning S.S.W.. ascends
the valley of the Deirman Su , as far
as Matarajik (numerous khdns ), where
it crosses a stone bridge to the rt bonk
of the stream. It then runs through
a gorge, in which it is cut out of the
hillside, to Jevislik (17) m.) — a large
village, with several khans, at the
junction of the Deirman and Mera-
inona rivers. [From Jevizlik to the
monastery of Sumela (Rte. 68) ; and
to Erzerftm, by the summer caravan
route, over the Kolat D. (Rte. 69).]
After crossing the Meramana Su,
by a stone bridge, the traveller con-
tinuos the ascent of tho gorge amidst
scenery that increases in grandeur.
Several hundred feet below the road,
the Deirman Su, here a mountain
torrent, rushes seaward through the
picturesque valley; the hillsides are
clothed with luxuriant vegetation;
the red-tiled roofs in the villages on
the lower slopes add colour to the
Beene ; and, high above all, rise sharp,
craggy peaks, whose bold outlines are
sometimes hidden by the sombre forest
of pine and fir. At the Greek village
of Hamsi K. (13$ m., numerous kh&ns\
tho road windB round the head of tho
valley aud a huge spur, to regain tho
rt bank of tho Deirman Su, wliioh it
crosses $ in. beyond Behjiler. Tho
forest scenery near this point • is
superb. Magnificent timber of every
description rises from an undergrowth
of rhododendron, the intervening
spooes being car)>cted with wild
ilowers; and iu August aud ‘Sep-
tember the ground is ablaze with
many-hued crocuses. As the ascent
continues the vegetation gradually
disappears, uutil little is left but
Azalea pontica , from whose yellow
blossoms bees gather the poisonous
honey that intoxicated the soldiers of
Xenophon. The summit of the pass
(6588 ft.) is reached near
Zigana Kh&n (10$ m.). Over this
pass, perhaps, tho romnant of the *' Ten
Thousand” marched, and from ono
of tho rocky peaks hard by possibly
arose that shout of “ Thalatta” u Tha^
lotto,” which must have filled the
hearts of tho weanr soldiers with fresh
life and hope. From this Bpot, too,
the traveller obtains his first view of
the country he is about to visit As
he looks ». he will notice that the
luxuriant vegetation, the creepers, tho
mosses, and the lichens have dis-
appeared. The prospect is wild and
desolate. Before him stretch ranges
of mountains, bold in outline and
bright in colour, but arid and sterile.
The moisture laden winds from tho
Blook Sea discharge their contents on
the northern slopes of the coast range,
and southwards tboro is a drier climato
and clearer atmosphere. .
From Zigana Khan the road, here
entirely cut out of the rock, descends
sharply to the village of ZiganOf
which still retains the name of one
of the Roman military posts on the
frontior of the Empire. After an
ascent of 1} in., it descends a$ain,
winding along tho almost precipitous
sides of the valley at a dizzy height
above the stream ; and, finally, after
a tortuous descent, where tho road
suffers muoh from spring avalanches,
reaches Ardosa Khdn or Kcupri-bashi.
Here the Kharshut Su is crossed by a
stone bridge, nnd tho road then follows
tho 1. bank to Ardosa (16 in.), over
which hangs a mediaeval castle. Here
are a bazar , and many l;hdns. After
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route G7. — Oumush-khdneh — Baiburt.
203
re-crossing tho Kharshut, or Gtimtuh-
khdneh Su , it runs, for about 3 lire.,
through a gorge with high precipi-
tous hills on cither sido to Magnra
Khun. In summer there is not much
water in the river, but the largo
boulders in its bed, and tho broken
roadway, are evidences of a very
different state of things during the
molting of tho snows. At Magnra
Khftn the river flows botween preci-
pitous walls of rock, the width of tho
valley being not much more than
25 yards. The caw, “ magara,” tho
entrance to which is near tne bridge,
on the left of the road, is very fine,
and said to bo of considerable extent.
Its exploration, with proper caution,
would probably be of interest. The
mad now crosses, by a bridge, to the
1. bank ; the gorge opens out, and the
villages of Bem-kilisse and Khash-
rtk ore passed. Beyond the latter,
on a crag about 1000 ft. above the
river, stand the ruins of a mediaeval
castle. Passing to the left of some
orchards, lying between the road and
the river, we reach
Gttmush-khlneh (15} m.), the chief
town of a Banjak. Tho town; which
need not bo entered, is situntod on
high ground about a mile to tho
right, whilst tho khans, ft number of
houses, and a bazar , are on the road
(alt. 3778 ft.). Tho place was cele-
brated for its silver , “ Giimush,”
mines, mentioned by Marco Polo, but
they are no longer worked. Fruit
is largely cultivated by the inhabi-
tants, who are principally Greek, and
hospitable. Continuing the ascent
of the valley of the Gfimush-khAneh
Su, by an easy gradient, the road
crosses to the rt bank, after | m M and
again to the L bank at Sabran KhAn.
Tho valley, though wider, is sparsely
cultivated, except near villages ; but
the road is so out up by tho heavy
floods in spring that it is often barely
passable for fourgoni during the
summer.
A little B. of Tekke, a large vil-
lage, picturesquely situated on tho
mountain side (1.), the road from Joviz-
lik over the Kolat D. (Rte. 69) joins
the chaussee ; and that to Erzingnn.
vid KUsseh K. (Rte. 70), turns off
to tho right; at the junction of a large
stream, near the bridge opposite IVr
Ahmed. After passing Murad Khun
and Kalejxk , above which are tho
ruins of a castle, the road enters a
defile, with cliffs 200 ft high on
either side, and ascends the Dmnudrh
Jhre, where it occupies tho greater
part of a dry torrent trad. The ascent
is continued over tho bare slopes of
the WAumk, or W&toer D., alt. 5C42
ft., to
Khadrak (29} m.), alt. 5642 ft., n
village on a* neighbouring spur, be-
neath which is a kbftn, where the
summer route from Jevizlik over the
Kolat D. joins the chausste. The
road now follows the L bank of one
of the feeders of the Chorut: Sn to the
valley of Batakhor ; and 2} m. further,
where the valley contracts, it crosses
to the rt. bank. Leaving the river
at this point it traverses the plain to
the village of Vanahan, above which
are the mins of some mediaeval
Armenian edifices of elaborate design
trhich resemble, in many points, those
at Ani. The best preserved is an
octagonal building, which shows all
tho peculiarities of tho Armenian stylo
of tne 11th or 12th century; in its
ornamentation the reed-like columns
are tied together by true-love knots
instead of capitals. The elaborate
frescoes seen by 8ir A. H. Layard
have almost disappeared. Near the
buildings is an ancient cemetery, with
three tombs cut into the shape of
rams. Two hours' further is
Baiburt (18} m.), alt. 5114 ft., on
important town on the Ohoruk Sn.
anct. Acampeis, which here turns to
the E., after having run W. from its
sources near Erzorflro. Tho hatters
run Up the hillsides, on both banks
of the rivef, to a considerable height.
They are built of stone set in a frame-
work of wood, and the flat roofs of
earth arc supported by a strong sub-
structure of wood. This is the usual
mode of construction in Northern
Kurdistan ; tho earth keeps out tho
Digitized by L^ooQle
204
Route 67 .—Ath-kaleh — Erze.rdm.
cold and heat, and the 'wooden frame-
work is a protection against earth-
quake shocks, which are occasionally
severe. The bazdr is poor, and there
is no special industry in the town.
The Castle, built originally by the
Armenians and restored by the Scl-
jflks, stands on an isolated moss of
rock, running from E. to W., and
steep on every side, especially on the
E. above the river. The principal
gateway (Arabia inscriptions) is at tho
8.W. comer, and the approach to it
leads past tho tomb of a Moslem
saint. The walls arc most massive on
tho W., that being the weakest side,
and here the towers are highest.
There are the remains of a vaulted
chamber, of a Christian church* a
mosque, und two covered staircases
leading to the river. After admiring
the fine view the traveller can leave
point between Trebizond and Erzer Am.
The road now follows the crest of a
col for a mile, und then descending
the steep mountain side past a kh&n
(rt.), enters a narrow valley at the end
of which is the Kurdish village of
Pernekapan (10 in.). Turning to tho
left tlie valley of the Euphrates, Kara
Su, here from J to 1 in. wide, is
entered and followed to
Ash-kaleh (9* m.), alt. 518G ft., a
large village, whence there is a road
vii tho Mur jam Dagh to Pekarich
(Hte. 90). Near Kara-buyu/c , 2} m. up
the valley, the Kara Su is crossed, and
a little higher up is Kuchuk Chug-
daris , prettily situated below a steep
spur between the main stream and the
Chagdaris Su. The road now crosses
a spur and, parsing the mins of a
kli&n, where tne road from Erzingan
the castle by tho S.E. gate. joins the c haussde, desoends again
sharply to tho river to a group of
rFrorn Baiburt there are roads vid khfms called Yens Khan , whence
Kelkit Chiftlik to Sivas (Iito. 90) ; there is a track vid Jinis to ErzerAm.
to Sadagh and Erzingan (Hte. 71); The cliaussde crosses to the L bank,
to Ispir and the valley of the Ohoruk and follows it to the commencement
Su (Hte. 74) ; and vid Kitova D., of the plain of Krzer Am opposite the
and Kazikli D. to Mumji KhAn and village of Agaver. It then runs over
'Trebizond. 3 the plain to
The road now crosses to the right Ilija (22 mA at the end of the
bank of the river and follows it up lowest spur of the Zerdigeh Dagh,
the valley, between hills not unlike where there are hot-springs much rc-
the English South Downs, to Maden sorted to for rheumatism. Tho baths
Khun . From this point the old roud are said to have been origiunlly con-
followed tho Clioruk Su, or Massat strutted by Anastasias. The Kr/oruin
Doro, to Jaohpur and then turned 8 . plain , which slopes geutly to tho^ ex-
over the Khoshab-punar pass to Ilija, tensive marshes bordering the Kara
but it is now little used. The chaus - Su, is well cultivated and studded
stfe on the other hand crosses the with villages. The road across it
river and turns S. up a narrow sido from Ilija is slightly raisod above the
valley, which it follows to Xop KhAn level of tho ground, but its condition
(2S m.), a large but indifferent kh&u, is so bad tliat travellers usually prefer
alt 6G89 ft., at tho foot of tho oue of the tracks at its Bido. Passing
Kop Dagh — the great barrier seporat- the village of Qhez, from which a flue
ing the waters of the Black Sea from view of the city is obtained, the
those of the Persian Gulf. After traveller reaches the fortifications of
following the stream (trout) for about
2 m. the ascent is commenced, and Erser&m(lli m.), Theodosiopolisi?),
the Kop-dagh Khan at the head of Armn. Oarin, alt. 6200 ft It was
this portion of the pass is reached in at one time a frontier fortress of the
1 j hrs. A short descent followed by Byzantine Empire, hence its name, a
an ascent now brings tho traveller to corruption of Erzen tr-Hum. It is the
tho summit, alt. 7743 ft., tho highest chief town of a first-class vilayet , and
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Boule 67 .—Erzerum.
206
bas a population of over 42,000, in-
cluding more than 10,000 Christians,
2000 Persians, and a few Jews. It is
protected by earthworks, 7 miles in
circuit, and bv a belt of forts in strong
positions; and has a garrison of 4-5000
men. There are Consulate s of several
Foreign Powers.
Tho city is situatod 200 to 300 ft.
above a largo cultivated plain, 80 m.
long and 12 m. wide, through which
tho Kara Su (Frit or Western Eu-
phrates) flows W. past numerous
villages. To the 8. is tho lofty Falan -
token Dagh, “ causing the pack-saddle
to slip" for steepness; on the E. is
the Deve-boyun, “ camel neck,” pass,
800 ft above the city; and on the
N. tho plain is hemmed in by n ridge
that terminates, on the W., in the
Kop Dagh.
The great altitude accounts for the
severe cold in winter, — occasionally
10° to 25° below zero F. Snow has
in spring, when tho snow melts, thero
is hardly a dry firet floor in a house.
The snow, after a heavy fall, is
shovelled from tho roofs into tho
streets which sometimes, in narrow
places, become entirely blocked. Tho
streets arc generally dirty and badly
paved; but a few main arteries are
broad and kept in good ropair. Dogs
aro more numerous and more fierce
than at Constantinople.
There aro a largo number of woll-
built mosque s, none older than tho
16th century; several publio baths,
of which two or three aro fine build-
ings; some’ excellent khans; an an-
cient Greek church; and two larpo
churches, Armenian and Catholic.
The most beautiful building, however,
is a medresse , erected in the 12th
century by tho Seljftks. The door-
way is richly ornamented with an
elaborate pattern, and some of tho
windows aro of beautiful design. Two
been known to fall in June, and frosts
aro common in September. Few
winters pass without some persons
perishing in a tipi , — a snowstorm
accompanied by a strong gale which
whirls the fine surface ice-powder
into the air, and numbs and blinds
the traveller, whilst obliterating tho
track. Spectacles are indispensable
for winter travelling ; they should be
kept in place by elastic cord, and no
metal allowed to touch the skin. The
air is intensely dry and wonderfully
clear; and the sun soorclies fiercely
summer and winter alike, but the
maximum temperature rarely exceeds
84° to 86° F. The water, conducted
from springs in the vicinity to numer-
ous fountains in the town, is highly
appreciated by the Turks; and tho
climate, though rigorous, is very
healthy in spite of the abeenoe of
sanitary precautions. Typhus and
small-pox are the raoet fatal diseases ;
consumption is rare.
Tho houses aro generally built of a
dark grey volcanic stone cemented
with mud, and strengthened with
horizontal timbers to resist the earth-
quake shocks which are often very
sensibly felt. The roofs are flat and
covered with some 3 ft, of earth ; and
grooeful minarets, Chi/te Minareh ,
rise above tho dilapidated roof. They
aro built with thin red bricks, fluted
like Ionic columns, and their surfaces
aro ornamented by a regular pattern
in light-blue encaustic tiles. Tho
building now holds military stores,
but is in vory bad repair. Tho
citadel, built in tho middle ages,
occupies a commanding position on a
small hill near tho centre of the city;
a great part of its outer walls have
been romoved in recent years. There
are numerous cemeteries , and several
good Seljflk tombs dating from tho
12-16th centuries. The Bazars are
not very interesting, but there is a
small bezesten ; good Persian carpets
can be obtained without much diffi-
culty, and occasionally valuable furs.
The blacksmith's and coppersmith's
work is better than in most Turkish
towns ; tho horse-shoes and brass
work aro famous; thero are scvornl
tanneries; and Turkish boots and
saddles are largely made. Jorked
beef (pasdirma) is prepared in large
quantities.
In tho marshes, 5 m. below the
city, there is very good dock, goose,
ana snipe shooting ; large bustard are
very rare ; but small ( metmendeh ) are
Digitized by
206
Route 68. —Monastery of Sumela.
plentiful overy year; and there are
li limbers uf liorun and various kinds
of waterfowl. Iu the mountains there
uro hears, wolves, lynxes, foxes, and
hares.
Tho scenery in the neighbourhood
is. striking, — lofty baro mountains,
varied by open plains and long valleys
dotted with villages.
ItOUTK 68.
TREBIZOND — 8UMELA MONASTERY
— VARZAHAN — ERZERUM.
Jrvijtlik . . . 6 lii*.
Suuicla Moiumtcry • . 4 „
Tasb-kcnpri Khali . • 1 day.
KtuUi . . . . 1
Uaiburt . . • • 1 „
Kr/crAoi, by IUu. 67.
This littlo known route, which
pusses the fatuous monastery of Su-
molti, was followed by tho Bev. 1 1. F.
Tozor in 1876. The traveller should
start early, for the monastery closes
at sunset, after which it is difficult to
obtain admission. A zaptich who
known the road from Sumela to Var-
zahau should bo taken.
Tho road follows tho diatusSe, past
Mumji Khan, whore tho rood to
Krzerum over tho Kazikli D. turns
off, as for as Jecizlik (Rto. 67)* It
then ascends the valley of the Mcra-
tuana or Sumela Su, which has no
equal for beauty in Armenia or Kur-
distan. To Fallmerayer it recalled
the approach to the Grande Char-
trouse, which, however, lacks the lux-
uriant undergrowth of this southern
district Mr. Tozer compares it to
tho ride from Cauterets to the Pont
d’Espague in the Pyrenees, with more
oxtendod and more variod views.
“ Thore is nothing in tho Alps,*' ho
says, “ to whioh ouo can compuro it,
owing to tho clearness of the water
and the variety the vegetation.*’
The landscapo is ever changing.
Trees of all kinds torder the wolT-
mnde path; rhododcudrous and aza-
leas cover tho banks; tho wild tig
springs from tho clefts in tho rock ;
creepers innumerable hang from the
branches pf tho trees; and a profu-
sion of wild flowers givo oolour to
the soeno. At one point, wliero tho
valley narrows, the path usccndB se-
veral hundred foot to a projection
rock crowned by a small autpd, and
then, descending agaiu to tho rivor,
crosses to the rt. bank.
Soon afterwards a lofty preoipioo,
rising a thousand foot or more out of
tho luxuriant vegetutkm, comes into
view. Its summit is capped with
pines, and in a cavern half way down
its face stand tho white buildings of
the monastery, flankod on tho left by
tho arches of an aqueduct. Tho valloy
is shut in by rugged mountains of
varied form and nuo, and along its
bed rush the clear waters of the foam-
ing torrent (trout). Tho stream is
crossed by a covered woodon bridge,
and tho traveller then ascends many
hundred feet, by a zigzag path iu
tho faco of tho cliff, to tho aqueduct
whore ho dismounts. From this point
a flight of fifty stops, hown out of
the rock, leads to a massive pateway,
through the guiehet of which per-
mission to enter must bo obtained.
A flight of woodon stops now leads to
a terrace, overhanging tho precipice,
and at its further end is tho entrance
to the
Monastery of 8umela, which is de-
dicated to the Virgin (Panagia), and
said to have been foundod by Barna-
bas, a priest, and Sophronius, a
deacon, natives of Athens. It was
given a charter, and rebuilt by Alexius
Comncnus III., of Trebizond, a.d.
1360 ; and afterwards received a fir-
man from Muhammad II. The church
occupies the innermost recess of tho
cavern, The chancel and apse, of
which tho outer walls are covered by
defaced frescoes, are ulono visible
from outside. Tho interior is lighted
by glass cliaudeliers and silver lamps
suspended from tho roof of thqpavern.
Tho internal walls are oovertt with
frescoes and adorned with motures.
At the W. end is a gilt pulpit, sud at
Digitized by ^ooole
’ Route 60. — Madcn-khdn .
207
the E. end the altar screen, both richly
dooomted. * In tho sanctuary behind
tho screen hangs a small bat dilapi-
dated picture of the Virgin, said to
havo boen pointed by S. Luko.
Amongst other relies are tho skulls of
88. Barnabas and Sophronins ; a pioco
of tho true cross mounted in a richly
jewelled frame, and kept in a silver-
gilt casket, the gift of the Emperor
Manuel III. ; a Byzantine MS. of the
Gospels ; tho charter of Alexius III.,
the' flrmkn of Muhammad II. ; and
two onorraons candles, tho remains of
fire of similar size presented by
Selim I.
On one side of the church is a
belfry with 5 bells, and on tho other
a altered spring. • In front is a largo
wooden sounding board, sueh as is
still used instead of a boll in many
parts of the oountry. The guett
chamber* are large, well furnished,
and comfortable. A library is at-
tached to the monastery. The kitchen
is worth visiting. The 12 monks are
wealthy and hospitable*
Descending from tho monastery the
traveller ' crosses the Meramana 8u
by another wooden bridge, and then
ascends by a winding path through b
forest of fir, boech, sycamore, alder,
hazel, and mountain ash, with an
undergrowth of rhododendrons and
uzolcas. Flowers of tho lower Alps,
primroses, crocuses and ferns, carpet
the ground. The path becomes
stcopor and hardly visible beforo it
roaches tho crest of tho hill, whence
there is a lino view to the N. and
N.E. over the Black 8ea and the
mountains of Lazistan. It then de-
scends, winding round the E. side of
the Kaxtkli Dagh , to Task Kcupri,
where there is a kh&n. The track
now passes over a bare, hilly oountry,
and crosses several coU before reach-
ing a cemetery which contains tho
tomb of Haiji Vali, — a Turkish saint
who gives his name to tho plocc, Hajii
Vali Mezrah , and tho pass. A little
•further is a khan whero the night
may be passed. From this point it
is about 1' in. to Vartahan, whence
Rto. 67 may lie followed to Bnilmrt
find Erzcrfitu,,
ROUTE (ill.
TREBIZOND— KOLAt^DAOH-TEKKE
— ERZERUM.
lilts.
Jevixlik •
Ifodcn-kbAit ... 3
Tekko 61
Erxnrdm by llic. 67.
To JevizUk by Bto. 67, and thou
ascend a narrow spur betwoeu tho
valleys of the Deirman and Suinela
by a broad mule track, paved in
S laces and evidently of groat an-
iquity. The path follows the knifo-
like ridge, whence the deep valleys on
cither sido may occasionally be seen,
and runs through forest scenery to a
kh&n and guard-house (2} hrs. ) . Hero
the trees and rhododendrons give
place to azaleas, and the track, keep-
ing to the high ground above Hamsi
Keui (p. 202), reaches the mala ridge,
alt 8800 ft A path to the right
leads heuce vib Stavri-khan and
Itlavroe Bogha* to Qfimush-kliAneli.
The road now turns E. and tho tra-
veller has in front of him the summit
of the Kolat Dagh and, far below to
the right, the Krom valley , inhabited
by Greeks. After crossing the coL
whenoe there is a fino view N. aud
S., the road ascends to Maden-khAn
(i hr.), a group of buildiugs only
occupied in summer. Here the routes
diverge; one to the L, avoiding the
basin of the Kharshut Su, passes to
the N. of the Wawuk Dagh and de-
scends by an easy road to Khculrak
(p. 208). The other to the rt reaches
tho Krom valley by a steep descent,
and, passing near Shamana, ascends
the opposite ridge, which it follows
8.E. for 8 m.; it then descends by a
rough path to tho valley of tho Khar-
shut, and joins the ehansuds E. of
TeJckc (5J hrs.). Thcnco to KrzcrOm
by lUo. 67.
Digitized by L^ooQle
208
Route 70. — Kueaeh — Sadagh .
KOUTE 70.
TREBIZOND, VI& TEKKE AND KU8*
SEN, TO ERZINGAN.
1JKH.
Tekkc 24
K (taseli 6
Hutn-aerai .... 7
Erzingaii 2
To Tckke and the bridge over the
Kharslmt Su (p. 203) by Rtos. 07 or
09. Then ascend the rt. bank of a
large stream that joins the K harshut 8 u
from the S., and cross it at Pir Ahmed ,
and again at Kiirtiklti. The valley
is well cultivated and picturesque,
and the road is laid out os a cJiatUtfr,
but uot completed over the Sipikor D.
At Kiiriiklii tho valley forks, and the
road, taking the E. branch, rises
rapidly, partly through forest, to tho
summit; it then descends and runs
8.E. to a guard-house, beyond which
tho valloy narrows and is wooded on
both sides. About 6 m. from the sum-
mit the valley opens out, and 1 } m.
further is
Kiisseh (6 lire.), alt. 5020 ft. Here an
immense upland depression stretches
E. and W., having long eveu slopes
partly cultivated, partly woodod on
the N., and on tho B. hills covered
with scrub. After leaving Kiisseh,
tho road crosses an affluent of tho
Kelkit Su by a bridge (1 in.), and
runs post Uljush (1 m.), to
Sadagh, Satala (3 lira., Turk.). Hero
was the station for many centuries of
Lcgio XV., ApoUitiari*. Tho wall
and towers on the E. and N. have
left considerable remains. The acro-
polis has been stripped ; it lies E. of
the village, and on the neck was
found, in 1870, tho famous bronzo
head and hand of an Aphrodite, now
in tho British Museum. Built into
houses are many inscriptions, Latin
and Greek, and numerous gems and
small antiques are found by tho vil-
lagers. On the hill W. of the Tillage
are possible remains of a forty and rt.
of the roads are those of an aqueduct.
Honoe in 1} hn. to Bandotary where
tho mad runs 8. up a valley to 8ipiknr>
alt 5550 ft., aud then asceuds sharply
to tho head of the pass over the moun-
tains that form the N. boundary of
tho Erzingan plain. From the sum-
mit a track mm down the W. side of a
gorge to B&m-tsrai (4 hn.), and then
on through Wazgirt to Erzingan. The
more direct road, however, crosses the
gorge, and following its E. side, winds
round a spur, and dosoends rapidly
to Kuritetek on the plain. During
tho descont Wazgirt, with its cloth
manufactory and hospital, is visible
to tho W. Leaving the barrack* to
the W., and passing tho village of
Watoer, the road enters Erzingan
(2 lira., p. 249).
[From Kiisseh there is an easy road
to KtUtU ChiftUk (3 hrs.), whence
Erzingun may l>e reached by following
tho stream to Khatvor ami Ptukeh,
and then crossing the mouutains to
Yidunuz-hagh (10 ora.), in tho plain of
Erzingau, 3 m. N.E. of Wazgirt.]
KOUTE 71.
BAIBURT, Vli 8ADAQH, TO ERZINQAN.
(IKS.
i’lur «
Sadagb Uridgu . . . .3
Erzingan •
From Baiburt to Plur tho road
presents no difficulties. After cross-
ing a tributary of the Ohoruk 8u
(1 hr.), it follows tho N. spurs of the
Ottuti Del, and passing Ktanta (4 hrs.)
Digitized by ^.ooQle
200
Soule 12.-^Surmeneh—Off.
and Emir % reaches Plar (l hr.), a
Turkish villogo situated in a small
cultivated plain surrounded by low
hills. Hence there is a path (rt) to
Kelkit Chiftlik. The road continues
8. up the plain, whioh, above a spring
and two mills, becomes a narrow
valley; it then passes KWcUtlU, in a
valley (rt) ; a fountain at the junction
of the road from Terjan (L) ; Yakub-
abdul (1.) and Choroema (1.). It now
orosses the low hills separating the
Choruk from the Kelkit, and runs
down a broader valley to the bridge
over the Kelkit Su ( Lyeut ) opposite
Sadanh (8 hrs.). From Sadagh to
Bandolar and Erzingan by Rto. 70.
Falkos it crosses the vnlloy of the
Yamboln Su, up which thero is a
mountain track over the Kazikli D.
(p. 207) to Baiburt, and then runs
over an alluvial plain to
Bnrmsnsh, Susnrmaena (7 hrs.), at
the mouth of the Surmeneli 8u, anct.
Hytsut. Hyssiportus, afterwards called
Busarmia and Susurmaena, was a place
of importance, fortified, and garrisoned
by the Cohort Apuleia Civium Roma -
norma. The town, from which there
are tracks to the Kazikli D., is reached
in flood time by ferry — the animals
swimming, and the baggage crossing
by boat 1 hr. beyond Surmenen
are Artn Vera, and the roadstead of
Komorgan , or Yeni Surmeneh , whence
petroleum from Baku is carried by a
direct road to Baiburt (p. 20 3> Thero
is a largo trade in porpoise oil with
Trcbizond, the porpoises being netted.
The road oontinues past Charthi-
mahuri (weekly market), aud Termite
Itkdert to
ROUTE 72.
TRCBIZOND-mjfA-l8PlR-eRZE-
RUM.
SKA.
Snrmt'neh (Suturmaena) . 1
Off . 6
Wm (Mixta) . • . «*
.Until 13
Kjun ..... 10*
Tlftilk 13*
Krx^rfitn 3
On leaving Trcbizond, the road
passes the Erzcrftin ehatumfe (Rte.
07) and the Petroleum Depot; and,
after crossing the Deirman Su , fol-
lows the coast through orchards, olive
groves, and corn-fields to Yomnrn.
From this point a path leads B. up a
wooded valley to the district of Santa,
which lies below the Kolat D. (p. 207),
and is almost wholly occupied by
Christians. After fording tho Yomura
Su (trout in higher waters), tho road
runs first near the sea, and then over
a hill to Falkot ((rout). Beyond
[Turkey.]
Off (5 hrs.), situated in a valley up
which runs a track, opon for eight
months, with branches to Erzorfim
nnd Baibnrt The Moslems of the
neighbourhood, who furnish a largo
number of Boftos (students), are said
to be fanatical, but the small Crock
community liviug amongst them is
treated with great liberality. The
climate of this part of the coast is
unhealthy, fever is prevalent, and
travellers should take small doses of
quinine once or twice a day. Crossing
tno Off river, anct Ophts , and follow-
ing the shore at the foot of slopes
thickly wooded with ash, cheanut,
alder, oak, maple, poplar, Ac., the road
enters the picturesque valley of tho
Kalopotamoe , anct. tcaXbs wora/iSt, hero
400 yds. wide (liorsc ferry). A difficult
mountain track runs up tho valley to
Baiburt and Erzcrfim. Tho road now
posses to the B. of Fiji Burnu , with
its rocks of black conglomerate, and
continues over the hills to
210
Route 72. — Riza — Jimil.
Rhizus was a place of somo import-
ance and was strongly fortified. The
small modern town lies on the shore,
and is hemmed in by wooded heights,
above which rise tho peaks of moro
distant mountains. Amidst tho luxu-
riant foliage of tho lower slopes nostlo
homesteads and villas, which are
largely occupied in summer by visitors
seeking an escape from the oppressive
heat of Tiflis and other towns S. of
the Caucasus. The bazar is small and
poor, but Riza is noted for its scarves
and linen cloth. In all the adjacent
VAlleys flax is grown And bleached ;
aud fruit, including orange, lemon,
and olive, is largely cultivated. Tho
climate , in nrnrkod contrast to other
places on tho coast, is healthy.
The road now turns N. into the
mountainous district of LaziUan. This
region, which formed part of the
kingdom of Pontus, is bounded on the
8. and E. by tho Choruk Su , anct.
Acampti *, and consists of a lofty, in-
tricate chain of mountains, tho anct.
J'tiryudree, that ruos parallel to tho
coast. Its inhabitants, the Lazit , be-
long to the Georgian branch of the
Oancaso-Tliibetan race, and their lan-
guage is allied to the Thibetan, or,
more nearly, to the Georgian and
Suan. Like all mountaineers they
]M>ssess a fine physique, and, as a rule,
are short, thick-set, and broad-shoul-
dered. In character thoy are warlike,
brave, independent, and enterprising,
but revengeful and cruel. Secure in
their mountain fastnesses they havo
never been absolutely subdued ; and,
like the Denim Kurds (p. 250), they
are a race apart They are successful
smugglers, and the small armed bands
which carry on tho contraband to-
bacco trade, far beyond the limits of
Ijazistan, are always prepared to fight
their way through all obstacles. The
I *azis, strange as it may appear, are
skilled tillers of the sou, and every
spring hundreds go to Erzertim and
other towns to work as gnrdencrs,
returning to their homes at tho end of
autumn. Those employod in this
manner am conspicuous for their
quiet, ordorlv Inthaviour, for their in-
dustry, and tor their honest, straight-
forward dealing. The costume of the
men consists of a short brown home-
spun jacket, with tight sleeves, and
loose knickerbockers of the some ma-
terial, fitting tightly to tho lower part
of tho leg, which is generally bowed.
A white linon turban is worn ou tho
head, and a belt round the waist, with
a pouch containing various instru-
ments, amongst which tho L&z dagger,
with its ouriously constructed hilt,
is seldom absent. In some oases a
couple of old flint pistols are in-
cluded ; and the equipment is some-
times completed by strapping across
the back a long rifle, with a short
curiously worked stock.
There is no great caravan rood
from Riza to the interior. The short-
est route (pack-animals take a longer
round) follows on old and partly
paved path which leads over a spur
8. of the town to tho Atajor Dere y
through which a broad torrent finds
its way to the sou E. of Riza. It
then runs S. to a mosque at the junc-
tion of two streams, and, crossing
those, climbs the ridge tliat separates
tho Potamia district from tho upper
part of tbo Sciot Dere (trout), ami the
Atforot Dere. Here the main track
from Riza is joined, and the well-worn
path ascends to a stone Khkn (7$ hrs.),
alt. 6300 ft., situated amidst a forest
of fir, above the Pochachin Sn, a tri-
butary of the Aaforos. Tho scenery
here is very fine, and not unlike that
of the Kolat D. (p. 207). On leaving
the kh&n tho path follows tho ridge
for some distance, and then crosses to
a knife-edged ridge on which is a
yaila. Here a track runs 1. to Hem-
thin. Tho path now descends to a
feeder of tho KulopotainoH, and crosses
a col to an open grassy valley running
E. and W. on which, on the banks of
a trout stream, is
Jimil (5| hrs.), a village of wood
houses. After crossing tiie torrent by
a wooden bridge, and ascending a
stony valley for 4 m.,the road ascends
to tho muin oof, which is reached after
1 hr.’s steep climb, possibly (certainly
to the end of June) through deep
snow. Auoibor track over tho pass
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 73,
runs by a lake (E.). After descending
a very steep slope, the rood turns L
flown the valley. Here it is joined by
a winter road from Riza to Ispir by the
Kalo]x)tamos volley, Mtidirich, and
Chok-ser. Descending the valley,
and crossing the boundary between
the Trebizond and Erzerftm Yilftyets,
the traveller sinks deeper into tho
mountains. After passing Chabanz
(1A the valley becomes a rocky gorge,
and tho road emeses and recroeses
tlie stream by bridges. Beyond Nakh-
Uler, tho valley of the Choruk Su
is entered, and a bridge over a wide
deep chasm is crossed to
Kian (10) hrsA a large Moslem
village surrounded by gardens. Hence
a road rnns E. along the 1. bank of
the Choruk Su to Ispir (p. 214). After
a short descent the Choruk Su is
crossed by a bridge of two spans,
whence it is 14 hrs. E. by ihert. bank
to Ispir (Rte. 74), and lof hrs. W. to
Bniburt (p. 203). The direct road
runs S. up a narrow volley past Jfor-
tum, and ascends very steeply to a
bore col, from which there is a striking
view, looking N., of tho magnificent
mountain-range which has just been
crossed. The descent is at first easy
and then steep to
Kara-kaya Bridge (3 hrs.), whence
the brood open valley, in which are
the head waters of the Choruk Su
(trout), runs W. to Baiburt Near
tho bridge ate the 1 ruins of Vtran-
shehr. The road passes a ram sculp-
tured in stone (them are several in
tho neighbourhood), and roaches the
watershed by an easy ascent. The
district is here volcanic; there are
numerous extinct craters in the
vicinity, and a curious group of seven
1akc9, one of which is full of lake
trout. Tho road now runs over an
o|n?n grow country, tho Omjih , leas-
ing ilio villages of Injc-*n, Jlath-
Ucnul, Sitaalum, and Kilt (f m. rt.),
mid ascends by a steep zigzag to tho
head of the pass from which the town
and plain of Erzertim are visible.
Descending to Ort-yuzi at the N. edge
of the plain, tho Kara Sit is crossed
- Shipek . 211
at fifnfk (10} lire.), and thence the
road is easy to * • •»•••
Erser&m (3 hrs.). Bed Rte. 07. •
ROUTE 73. '
ERZERUM- TORTUI£-ER8l8—
: AftTVJN — BATUM. .
. 1 I 1 M 5 . , 'i
mpek ... . :
Vlkhik-kapusi . . 7
l* (lortum Tjake) ; 3
Brsla . ... H
Deurk Kfltaae , . . .4
Artvln .... 137 u
Batam . . ll+(6Sv.)
Tli is route rnns through some of
tho finest scenoty of the country, and
passes two of its best preserved ruins ;
there is excellent trout fishing in the
upper waters of tho Tortum ; aiul fair
shooting. Travellers proceeding from
Erzerfira to Trebizond, or vice v&nu,
who are not pressed for time;, are
strongly recommended to Bond their
heavy baggage by tho chawvtc, and
follow this route to Fetegrek, with
rod, gun, and sketch book ; and then,
after visiting Dourt Kilisse, to tarn W.
by Rte. 74 . to Baibnrt Zaptieh*
should bo taken. : . ' * /•; '
From Erzerfim follow Rte. 76 to
Kara-govak, and fcbofit 1 hr. beyond
it leave the Olti road (p. 218) and,
turning 1. through Kizil Kili**e,
cross the wrftcrshcd to 8hipek (7 hrs.),
in an open Valley nonr the lieiul-
witters of tho Nihhakh [Frorti
Shi)>ek a road runs doWn the valley
of the Nikhakb Su, where, in 1889,
tho villago of Kantzorik was buried
by a landslip, to KaUdibi (ruins 1 of a
castle). ’ Thertee Id ' (Rte. 76) may
bo reached by himjrff. (sculptured
r 2
Digitized by
Google
212
Route 73 . — Tor turn — Vikhik-kapusi.
ram), or tbo river followed to its road crosses and recrosses the river,
junction with the Tortum Su.] After passing the old archway of
Kiksa Kaputt, and the ruins of
Leaving Shipek, a ml, 7375 ft, is Abemes Saleh, we reach the small
crossed (fine view), and then, keeping hamlet of
to the L, thoro is a rapid closeout to
8aghsr, alt 4825 ft, a Moslem village Vikhik-kapusi (4 lira.), alt 3727 ft.,
on the Tortum Su. There is good situated at the junction of the Udiil;
trout fishing up and down stream, and Su, and opposite Sidi-vakas D. On a
shady camping grounds can be found low hill to the N. ore the ruins of a
in the gardens. A basket of 40 or small chapel. From this place an ex-
50, including several 2-pounders, re- cursion should be made up the valley
presents a fair day’s sport. Up stream of the Odiik Su to the ruins of the
the river, which runs through a rocky Church at Khakho. The path follows
gorge with precipitous sides from the first affluent on the rt. — the track
1000 ft. to 1500 ft high, can bo fished up the main stream is the winter road
as far as Fochenz , about 41 m. The to Mamas (p. 214), and Ersis — and in
scenery is grand, and, where the pin- 1$ hrs. roachos the churoh, which is
nodes of conglomerate are capped by surrounded by walnut and other trees,
slabs of trap rock, singularly striking, and is in a fine Btate of preservation.
Down stream the river, now running It is cruciform, with a bema at the E.
through verdaut meadows interspersed end, and a cupola, roofed With green
with gardens and orchards, can bo and red glazed tiles, in tho centre. In
fishod to its junction with tho Nik- the interior aro frescoes and other
hakh Su, below which there are no ornament, now much defaced. On the
trout S. sido aro small cloisters. On either
From Saglier a rood runs down side of tho church uro two detached
each bonk of the river through this chapels or tombs, and the wholo is
fortile oasis, in which rnuize, vego- enclosed by au old stone wall. Tho
tables, and fruit are largely grown, date of tho church is unknown, but
On tho steep hills, on either side, rock its existence shows that there mu9t at
partridges are numerous. The Moslem one timo have been a large Armenian
villagers of this district are tall, stal- population in theso secluded valleys,
wart mountaineers, who wear tho The nearest Armenian villago now is
peculiar dress of their neighbours, the Vorin K., about 4 hrs. up the vtdloy of
Lazis. They are hospitable, but poor, the Odiik Su. Between 1881-83 tho
and live principally on fruit and rich vegetation in tho valley was
maize, seldom touching meat of any covered by a sea of stones brought
kind. At the beginning of summer down by a great flood, and almost
they leave their villages in the valley, entirely destroyed,
to avoid the great heat and un- From Vikhik-kapusi the track fol-
healthy climate of the lower ground, lows the stouy bed of the Tortum Su,
and resort to their summer pasturages, or a |*uth, cut in tbo precipitous rock,
yailas , in the mountains. Kcopiug to so narrow that donkeys are used for
the L bank tho truck passes tho fruit and wood tra file iu preference
to horses or mules. In § hr. a remark -
Tortum (3 hrs.), at the foot of a able bridge is passed, indicating tho
rooky eminence, crowned by the ruins former existence of a better road ; and
of Tortum Knleh. It then runs J hr. further, on au emineuce in an ain-
through Mehrekom, and crosses to the phitheatre of rocks, are the ruins
rt. bank of the Tortum 8u, iramo- of Agushen Kaleh. Lower down the
diateiy above the point at which the gorge opens out, and here is a cluster
muddy waters of the Nikhakh Su of villages known as Azort, whence a
join that river. A narrow gorge, be- difficult mountain path leads to Azort
tween abrupt hills, from 1500 to Yailati, and thence vid Ardost to the
2000 ft high, is now entered, and the frontier and Nariman (p. 219). The
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route Id.— -Is — Deurt Kilisse .
213
track now crosses to tho 1. bonk, and
passcsJaia (l.)and Etkitsor (rt.) before
reaching
Is (3 bra.), alt. 3257 ft., a village
noted for its peaches, at the 8. end of
the Tortum Lake, Deniz-bashi. The
lako which is about 2} m. long, and
from 800 to 1200 yds. wide, was formed
by a landslip some 200 years ago. It
is surrounded by precipitous moun-
tains, capped with pino forest; and
its picturesque shore, broken into
numerous small bays, make it one of
tho most beautiful spots in the country.
Tho rivor runs out at the N. end, and
about 1 in. beyond it, falls over a
cliff about 125 ft. high. To reach
this waterfall, a primitive boat, con-
sisting of two trunks of troes hol-
lowed out, and connected by wooden
transoms forming a deck, must bo
obtained from Sihhik. Tho boot is
used to convey the fruit caravans
across tho lake; it is propelled by
two long sweeps, and the transit to
tlio N. end tokos about 4 hrs. On
binding tho 1. bank of tho rivor is fol-
lowed through fine scenery to tho
falls, whence can be seen to the N. W.
the mountain from which the land
slipped. Tho best view of the falls is
from tho valley beneath, which can
bo reached by a path on the L On
the rt. bank, at the foot of the falls, is
the village of Tev , and just below it
the river enters a short gorge, Keupri
DUxi , which is worth visiting. In the
shale below the lake largo ammo-
nites are found. On the return
journey the beauty of the soenery is
much enhanced by the evening lights.
N.B. — A Zaptieh should be left with
the boat during the visit to the falls,
otherwise it might disappear.
On leaving Is the path crosses tho
Tortum Su, and runs W. up a fine
r jo between WaiiJt D. and Kiadet
to Enshk (1 hr.). About 1J m.
further are the ruins of the Monas-
tery of Euehk , which seems to have
been specially designed for tho posi-
tion it occupies, so well does it harmo-
nise with the surrounding scenery.
Th© church i* cruciform ; 102 ft. long,
and 43 ft. wide at the transepts. Tho
capitals of the columns aro poor, the
bases are better finished. In the
apse an altar of stone is still in tUu.
Over tho porch on the 8. side, two
winced figures, and an oagle, with a
lamb in its talons, are sculptured;
and on the E. side of the 8. wall are
five figures about 5 ft. high. Tlio
two outer figures hold representations
of tho church in thoir hands. Tho
central towor is circular, with a conical
roof of brown .unglazed tiles. There
is no inscription to give the date of
this interesting building.
Tho track now ascends steeply, and
partly through pine forest, to the pass
over the Ditri D., 8176 ft ; it then
turns nearly due W., and desoends
abruptly to Erne Yailasu 3536 ft, a
collection of log huts which might
have been transplanted from Switzer-
land. The view of the Lazistan moun-
tains through the ^orge to tho N. is
also thoroughly Swiss. The valley is
now followed to
Ersis (4$ hrs.), alt. 4215 ft, the
chief place of tho Giskin Kaza. The
local Bey, who has a fine konak, is
noted for his hospitality. The track
descends by zigzag, through pine
forest, to the valley of the Ohoruk Su,
and crosses the river, here a succes-
sion of rapids and pools, by a wooden
bridge to Petegrek, 2090 ft, a strag-
gling Moslem village on the L bank.
Near the bridge are the ruins of a
castle. Vines and rice are grown on
both sides of the valley ; and wine,
which is sold to the R. 0. Armenians
in the vicinity, is made. The climate
is unhealthy and feverish. Following
the L bank of the Choruk for 1} hrs.,
we reach
Deurt Kilisse (4 hrs.), where the
ruins of a castle, and small chapel, on
a precipitous rock beyond tho valley,
are striking features in a landscape of
great beauty. On the rt bank is Qjik,
and high up, in the mountain above,
there arc rock-hewn dwellings in the
many-coloured sandstone. Henoo
there are rough tracks, one by the
volley, and another over the uioun-
D^dizeokby Google
214
Route 74. — Ar tvin — Ispir.
taints through lienh-anyel, Mulgur ,
Choi'da , and Shaldithimj to
Art yin (13} lira.), a small Russian
town inhabited by about 5000 R. G.
Armenians. • Hero the Choruk be-
comes navigable, and laden boats
leave frequently for Batftm, making
the journey in one day. A well laid-
out bridle-path leads to Borohka (24 v. ),
whence there is a good carriage-road
to Batftm. The latter, after passing
Ajaris Skala (16 v.) at the junction
of the Ajaris and Choruk, follows the
gorge, past Ydga , to Kapan-dibi ,
where there is a landing-stage.
Henco over a partly cultivated plain
to the foot of* the Kakhaba rango,
and between tho marshes to
Batftm (13 v.), at the E. end of the
marshy plain through which the
Choruk flows. It is backed by the
pine-clad ridge of KaJihaba , whence
there is a flue view of tho town, the
harbour, and tho mountains to the S.
Batflm was ceded to Russia by tho
Berlin Treaty, and since its cessiou
it has been strongly fortified. Tho
town, which consists of a long street
facing the sea, is divided into two
quarters : that on the E. is inhabited
by Russians, Armenians, Georgians,
and G rocks ; that on tho W. by tho
Moslems. In tho latter, quarter,
which, owing to its proximity to tho
marsh, is unhealthy, are tho oaz&r, a
mosque, and several cafes and Midn$.
The harbour, though small and in-
secure, is the only one on tho 8. sido
of the Block Sea ; two moles arc
being constructed on tho N.E. to
protect it from tho back-wash of tho
Choruk curreut. The climate is damp
aud unhealthy, especially during
summer, and precaution* should lx:
taken against (over. There is a fair
exp ort trade in timber, hides, wax,
and honey.
ROUTE 74. .
ERZERUM-ER8I8- I8PIR— BAIBURT.
Jhlrtk, by Ilto. 73
Ispir (Sfcer)
Kars-sgsch
Baiburt
it iv*.
•ii*
11
8 {
8*
Follow ltte. 73 to Ertu (224 lurs.,
p. 213), where the path turns W. and,
aftor passing tho ruins of a costlo,
orosses a col, 6715 ft, to Tungenz, in a
valley running to tho Choruk Su.
1} hr. down the valley is Nefri Qitkin ,
where are the ruins of a castle. Be-
yond Tungenz the rooks are green-
stone, porphyries, and columnar basalt,
and the scenery is very beautiful.
Tho path runs over rough broken
ground to Churgenii — a village con-
sisting of scattered groups of log huts,
— Tanzort , picturesquely situated
under an enormous mass of granite,
and Ftslik , where the country becomes
more open. From tho last place there
is a path to Khakho and tho Tortuin
Su (p. 212). A ridgo of rod sandstone,
clothed with pines, is now crossod to
Zagos (6 lire.), alb 5158 ft, a
Moslem village in a narrow valley
falling to tho Choruk. The path
now lies between a limestone and
a red sondstono hill, and, after
crossing a cxd, 6458 ft., and iiassing
Mamas (bridle-paths to Vikhik-ka-
pusi (p. 21 2), and Erzorflm), aud
other humlct* rb and 1., reaches
Varlam . 11 hr. further is
Ispir, 8 her, Arnm. SimpatalMu
(5 hre.), alt. 3858 ft., a small town on
the rt bonk of tho Choruk, at the
point where the rivor enters a deep
gorge. It is tho seat of a kaimukum,
and was once a place of importance
as the centre of a rich mineral districb
There are said to bo silver mines at
Kian (1 hr.), Kojuktfir(6 lire.), Sulci-
j nunl wir (4 hre ), and Semarik (4 hre.) ;
Digitized by i^ooQle
Route 75. — Hassan-kaleh.
215
copi»er mines at Ekirgir (7 bra.), and
coal at OhunnoH and Knrakon (5 hrs.).
Tho old caatlo which dominates the
town is tho only place of interest. On
souio of tho gateways ore Cuflc inscrip-
lion*. Tho rood now follows tho rt.
Umk for 1} hrs. td tho bridge over th6
Ohoruk, across whioh runs the road
from • Erzorftm to Kian and Riza
(Utc. 72). 1 hr. higher op tho river
is auotkor bridge, and horo a poth
leads 8. to tho Monastery of Surp HAr-
hannes (uninteresting). Further on
oro the ruins of a caatlo, to the L of
which is Semarik. . Here the road
leaves the river, and ascends through
bare, open country to the Moslem
villago of
rforkUkh (5* hrs.), alt 4908 ft
Above this point the narrow valley of
the Ohoruk opens, and is extensively
cultivated. fFrom Norkiakh there is
it rood vid Akpunar (5 hrs.), Mileni
(4 1 hrs.), Xshpunar (3 nrs.), and Hoik
(1 hr.), to Baiburt (1| hrs.).] The
usual road runs over hilly ground to
Xara-agaeh (3 hrs.), and KhoxcUpur ,
a ruined village, whence a path runs
ovor the mountains vid Takht to
Baiburt Tho road continues over the
hills to
Pigshi (44 hrs.), about | m. from tho
Ohoruk, and opposite Agunsos on the
1. bank. It then runs up the valley,
through muoh cultivation, to the Ar-
menian villago of Hath. Here fruit-
trees havo disappeared, and the people
are groat bee-keepers, sending noney
to Erzerhm and other plaoes. Noar
this tho Bema Su, flowing from tho
W. through a wido well-cultivated
valley, joins tho Ohonik. From Haik
the road skirts the plain, and follows
the Ohoruk south through a gorge to
Baiburt (4 hrs., p. 203).
. ROUTE 75.’
i »
ERZERUM W KAR6 ~ ALEXANDROPOL
t tTIFUS. .»
' ’ ’ iir*.
; Hassan-kaMi . * i ' '.
. S
Kara-urgan f • b . • . ■
..n
' * ‘
V MUTTS.
- Sarikamish . .
• . 3i
Kara . . , . . *•
. 6Y ,
AlcxandTopol . . ’
. 82
-Kara-kilinc i ’ *:;<• .
. 62
Delljan . . .
3S'.‘
. Kararanserai i. .
. 32 . •
Akstafa ...
’ Tiflls, bjRall . , . .
1 . f ' M'T •
. This route follows, from W.' te K,
the great military rood from Tiilis to
the Turkish frontier, and would be ono
of tho principal lines of Russian
advance In another war. From Ak-
itafa to Kars there is a first-class
metalled chauss& ; from Kars to 8ari-
krunish there is a i»rtially metalled
chtiussfe ; and from Sarikamish there
are well laid-out unmetalled roads to
Barduz, Kara-urgan, and Kara-kurt
on the frontier. Between Kara-urgan
and Hassan-kaleh the road, in
Turkish territory, is an unmade cart-
track.
Follow Rtc. 79 to Hassan-kaleh
(6 hrs.), and then cither keen to tho
road by Keupri K. (p. 222) and Jrdost,
or cross a senes of spurs, falling to the
Araxes, to Zantakh (10 hrs.) in an open
valley 1} m. 1o the rt. of tho rood.
Continuing past Sinamir (1.), there is
a short steep asoeni to the Zevin pla-
teau 6600 ft.— a strong position which
was successfully hcla ny tho Turks
when attacked by the Russians on tbo
25th June, 1877. descending from
tho plateau by a steep zigzag path,
the river is crossed at Zevin, where
are the picturesque ruins of a castle.
Tho track then turns L up the Valley
to the Turkish frontier post at Issi-su,
f From Kara-urgan the Ulriancca.are given
In versts j 1 v. = | m.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
216
Route 75. — Kara-urgan — Kars .
and soon nflorwards Russiau territory tho country, and build neat wooden
is entered at tho Custom House of houses. They are good agriculturists,
some of them using English iron
Kara-urgan (4 hrs.\ where pass- ploughs, and each house in their
ports are examined. Tho accommo- villages has its farm-buildings, for ni-
dation is bad. Hence a carriage-road yard, and garden. The Molokani
ruus up the valley to Sir Busan — a have ugly, irregular features, and
Greek settlement since the war of long straight light hair. In manner
1877 — and then, after climbing tho they are gentle, and they get on well
bare slopes of the Soganli X)., enters witn Greeks and Armenians. After
tho Soganli forest. In summer the traversing the Kars plain, and passing
horses are attacked by a large fly, Vladi Kars (Molokani), wo approach
which keeps to the shade of the pine- the heights above the town, which
trees, and care should be taken, when have long been visible, and, following
passing through the forest, to tethor tho rood to tho 1., enter
the horses, when halted, in an opon
glade. The district is volcanic and Kars (22 v.), alt. 5800 ft. The
large blocks of obsidian inuy bo seen town is situated in a deep gorge, on
by the side of the road. After cross- both bauks of the Kars Ohai (a tribu-
ing tho Soganli D., and passing a tary of tho Arpa Chai), which is
track up tho Baluk Dere to Barduz t spanned by three stone bridges,
and tho Greek village of Khan-dere, Above it is the old citadel. Kara is
another pine-clad ridge is crossed to memorable for its gallaut defence,
tho picturesquely situated village of during the Crimean War, by Gen.
Sir Fenwick Williams who, after
Barikamish (85 v.), alt. (H80 ft., repulsing an attack by the Russians
where troikas can bo obtained to on the 29th of Sept, 1855, was
coniinuo the journey. The villago obliged to copitulato on tho 28th of
consists of one straggling street, and a November. In 1877 it was again
small bazdr . Above it are large un- captured by the Russians, and it was
finished stone barracks and well laid- definitely assigned to them by the
out hut barracks and offices. An Treaty of Derlin. The improvements
open uninteresting country is now since made in tho fortifications, und
traversed to Kara-hamza (P.S.) just the attention given to the development
beyond the Armenian villago of tho of tho communications, show how
same nnme, and fully its strategic importance is recog-
nized by its new masters. With the
Beyli-Ahmed (35 v., P.S.), whence exoeption of planting some indifferent
there are rouds to Darduz and Olti gardens on tne bunks of tho river, and
(p. 219), and a track to Ardahan. establishing some poor inns, little has
Tho undulating plain of Kars, once been done to improve the condition of
thickly populated, is now entered, the town, which remains much us it
In 1880-81 tho Moslem population was before the Russian occupation,
emigrated westward en masse , and The official quarter is on tho 1. bank
many of their villages were occupied of tho river. [N.B. Travellers not
by Greeks from A. Minor, who were provided with a proper order for horses,
granted favourable terms by the Rus- podorojna , should obtain one at tho
sian Government, or by Molokani— a government office. If a “ double-
religious sect driven by persecution sonled” podorojna (p. 1991 cannot 1 kj
from their home iu tho Caucasus, obtained, it is better to hire a two*
Tho Molokani have no baptismal horse phaeton for the further journey.]
rites, and they build no churches.
They are steady, quiet, and indus- r Koutea from K «rs. u
trioqs, and tho use of intoxicating hitman— Igdir—Bayczid (about 117 vi).
liquors and tobacco is forbidden. The road, a good one throughout, passes
They make most of tho waggop* ip under the Isolated lull of ,1 fa-buga
Digitized by ^.ooQle
217
Route 75 . — Parget — Kara- kilme.
and through Char main (20 v., T.S.),
situated in a volley foiling to the Kars
Choi. It then leoves the nver and,
passing two “Sugar-loaf” mountains
(rt.) crosses a ridge to Upper Kemerlu
(20 v.. P.S.). Thence it descends to
letter Kemerlu (16| v., P.S.) in the
valley of the Bayam Su and, crossing
the Araxcs by an iron bridge, ascends
to Kaghisman (15 v., P.S.), a military
station surrounded by fruit gardens.
The population, 3300, is principally Ar-
menian. There arc barracks, military
buildings, and magazines. The road con-
tinues to Ak-chai (10 v.), Kulp (24 v.),
where ore extensive mines of rock-salt,
and igdir (25 v.), whence it is 10| hrs.
by Ktc. 80 to ltoycxid. N.U.— At the
junction of the Arjwi Chai with tho
Araxes, N. of Kulp, arc the rums of
Krorandashat , and there arc other in-
teresting ruins between that place and
^ it. Kars — Kaghisman — Dclibaha .
(117 v.). From Kars to Kaghisman
(71 1 v.) by (i.), and thence by a mule-
track, in places difficult, to Kara-vank
(monastery), Tash-oghlu Zarab-khanen,
Bash Keul (Russian frontier post),
Kara-kilissc (Turkish post), Jerason and
Dodu to Delibaba (Rtc. 79).
iii. Kars — 7 'oprak-knleh . Sec p. 223. ]
Leaving Kars the road runs down
tho docp gorge of tho Kars Chai, past
Kelli K. (11 v., P.8.), where tho
Ardahan road turns off, to Zaema
(13 v., P.8.), alt. 5,400 ft., whonco there
is a track N. to Lake Chaldir. The
road now leaves the valley, and crosses
on open valley to
alt. 4850 ft., a well !aid-out town to
the E. of a strong fortress of the same
name. The inhabitants are chiefly
Armenians, and tho principal object
of interest is the modern Armenian
church oj 8 . Gregory, built on the
model of the largest church at Ani
(p. 220). It is a handsome building
of red and black stone, with elaborate
ornamentation. The fortress contains
barracks for 4000 men, supplies of
military stores, and a large but un-
interesting church. There is a flue
view, E.8.E. of tho lofty isolated
Alageuz D., 13,450 ft.
[Alexnndropol — Echmiadzin — Bri-
tan, (i.) Tho summer road (122 v.)
passes K. of tho Alageuz D. nnd runs
over a black volcanic district through
Yeni Kcui (27 v.\Bash-abaran (16 v.),
Kara-kilissc (21 v.), and Echmiadzin
(40 v., soe p. 227), to Erivan (18 v.).
(ii.) The winter road (118J v.) paas<»
W. of the Alageuz D. and runs through
Khorut (17 v.), and Mastara (21 J y.)
to Sardarabad (39 v.) , beyond which
He the ruins of Armavir (p. 227).
Hence to Echmiadzin (28 v.), and
Erivan (18 v., seo p. 228).]
At Aloxandropol, a phaoton can bo
obtained for the journey to Akstafa
or Tiflis. Crossing the plain to Ak-
bulak (22 v., P.S.), and AmamZt (21 v.,
P.S.), tho road descends to the valley
of the Shish-kh&n river, and follows
it to
Parget (17 v., P.S.), whence there is
a fine view 8, of the Alaja D. t on the
sloped of which the Turks were
defeated, 16th of October, 1877, in the
battle that decided the fate of the
campaign in Asia. Descending again
to the valloy of the Kars Chai the road
crosses the river at the Shahin bridge,
and follows the gorge down to Argeena
(22 v., P.8.) Here the road leaves
the river, which runs away 8.E., and
after about 13 v. turns N. up the
valloy of the Arpa Chai , which is
crossed by an iron bridge shortly
before reaching
Alexandropol, Turk. Uumri (19 v.),
Kara - kilisse (19 v., P.&) at tho
edge of a forest. Here travellers by
phaeton usually pass the night, sleep-
ing, in summer, in their carriages to
avoid the vermin in the station house.
Tho character of tho country now
changes, and the way lies through
beautiful woodod scenery to tho head
of the pass over the Botkigf The
descent on the E. side through Hamzo-
chiman (18 v., P.S.) to the large pic-
turesque village, nnd military statiou
of
Pelijan (18 v., P.S.) is oven more
beautiful. The road continues to
Digitized by L^ooQle
318
Houle 70 . — Aksla/a — llinsk.
descend rapidly by a line succession
of zigzags, through grand scenery to
Turs-chai , and haravanaeiai (32 v.,
P S.) in the valley of the Akstafa
Bn. The next stations are Usun-tala
(17 v.) and
Akstafa (13 v.), u station on the
Tiflis -Baku railway, whenco the
traveller can reach Tiflis, by rail, in
3.hrs. The post road from Akstafa
runs up tho valloy of the Kur through
uu uninteresting country peopled by
Torekemans who wear the Kara-pavak
(mushroom-shaped fur hats), and live
in underground nouses, like the people
of the Kurdistan plateau. The sta-
tions are Forakh , Sai oghlu, Krasai ,
Modf t Alghet (41 v.), Zagluja , Sagan-
lug , and
Tiflis (45 ▼.). Pop. 30,000. The
seat of the government of the Cauca-
sus, and tho residence of tho Govornor-
Goneral. It is built on both sides of
tho wide gorgo in which the Kur ,
anot. Cyrus, flows. Tho principal
objects pf interest are : the Palace of
the Governor - General, the Topo-
graphical DcpOt, the Museum, the
Public Gardens overlooking the Kur,
the Botanical Gardens, the Woronzoff
bridge, the miueral springs, the
Georriau Cathedral — once the seat of
the Oatholicos of Georgia and now of
the Russian Exarch, in which is pre-
served tho cross of 8. Nina, the paost
precious relic in Georgia, — the Arme-
nian Church, the old Turkish fortress
Nari Kalcli (lino viow), and tho
Monastery of Mtatzminda (8. David)
in tlie chureh of which Griboyedof,
tho great Russian author, is buried.
Articles of gold and silver ( niello \
beautifully worked, and small tur-
quoises can be purchased at Tiflis.
Excursions should bo made from
Tiflis (i.) to the old Georgian capital
MtsJcheta and its celebrated cathedral,
1 hr. by rail, and (ii.) to the pictur-
esque town of Qoriy on the Tiflis-
Batflm railway, and the remarkable
rock-cut dwellings, and other excava-
tions of a pre-Christian era at Upli-
Utlho about 3 in. from Gori.
For full information on Tilljs and
the railways from it to Batftin, Poti,
and Baku, tec Handbook to Russia.
ROUTE 70.
A
ERZERUM— OLTI— ARDAHAN-AK-
HALT8IKH — TIFLI8.
Jlttt*.
Iter 7*
Id . . . . . . h
OlUf 7
YKKMT8.
Paunsk 2ts
Itourt-kiluMM »S
Ardahan . . . .34
Akbaltalkh . ... 81
Mikhailova . . .73
Tillte, by Rail.
Leaving Erzcrum by the Olti gate,
the plain is crossed to Soumk-chur-
muk , whence our road skirts the hills
on the E., and another, opon in July,
passes by Tutcanj to
Hinsk (2 lira.). Hence a road,
turning tho Devo Boyun position,
runs by Keshk to Tui and Kurujuk
(p. 222) in tho Possin plain. The
Olti roud continues up tho Gurgi
Roghax, and after crossing tho Kara
Su by an old stone bridge, passes the
Vonuu Su by a ford at Kura-govak,
alt 6209 ft. The lutter stream rises
high up in tho Domlu D., in a large
circular pool. 8625 ft, called by tho
Armenians Rhachapat, which is held
in great voneration by Moslems and
Christians as tho source of, the
Euphrates. The pool can bo reached
by following tho valley to Geungermet,
or from Hinsk. Beyond Karu-govak
the rood to Torturn (Rto. 73) turns
off 1., and soon afterwards the water-
shed, 6800 ft., between tho Black Sea
and tho Pcrrian Gulf, is reached,
f Prom OKI, Hie UbUiiccs are iu vents.
Digitized by
Google
Route 77. — Bar — Ardahan.
219
Tlienoc there is a descent over stony
hills to
Bar (5 } hrs.) where there arc salines.
Beyond Bar, the road crosses the
spurs, 8497 ft., of tho Karabazar D. ;
and then ascends to u narrow limo-
stono ridgo whonco, looking N. over a
chaos of mountains, there is one of the
wildest and most beautiful views in
tho country. Wo now cross a stony
platoan, 9472 ft.,' and, passing Todan,
doecend to
Id (8 hrs.), alt. 5122 ft, a pros-
perous village in tho valloy of tho Id
Su. [There are roads (i.) viA Liesgaff
to Tortum-kalok (Rte. 78), and (ii.)
to Hassan-kaleh (Rte. 79>] Half
a mile from Id the road turns N.
down the deep narrow gorge of the
Nariman Su, and, after ] massing the
frontier, on tors Nariman, situated in
a wider part of the valley. Here, or
at the Russian poet on the frontier,
passports are examined. On the 1.
oank is an old castle. The river id
now followed to
Olti (7 hrs.)* a small town pictur-
esquely situated in a deop glen;
amidst gardens and orchards, and
commanded by an anhiont citadel:
Tho post road runs down the valley
of tho Olti 8u, and orosses a spur
to
Pennek (28 v., T.8.), on tho Ponnck
8u. \Fcnnck to Kars (70 v.). The
road runs up tho valley of tho Potinek
to Kosur, Arecnck, and Tauskar;
and then, after crossing tho paw,
9000 ft., over the woodod Punar !>.,
descends by Zeloji K. to Kars.]
Leaving Pennek the road ascends to
Fanjuret (15 v., P.8.), and crossing
the Panjuret pass, 7728 ft, descends
to l)eurt Kilisse (24 v.). Thence it
runs through tho district of I/owor
Giulo to Komk , and, after passing
through Baghdad , enters
Ardahan (84 v., P.8.), a small town
on the Kur, which was a place of
considerable importance under tho
Turks. In every war betwoen Russia
and Turkey it has been the scone of
hard fighting, and, in the campaign
of 1877, it was the first place to fall.
Tho old castle on tho 1. Ijank of the
Kur has been dismantled by th6
Russians, who have ereoted barracks
and store-houses.
[(i.) Ardahan to Kars (77 v.). A
broad well laid-ont road (unmotollcd)
leaves Ardahan hy the valloy W. of tlm
Clelia Verdi Heights, and, keeping W.
of the Kissir D. runs across tho summer
pasture of the Kurds to the pass, circ.
8000 ft over the Gigerchik D . It then
descends to Kirk-kilisse and Jelouz, and
joins Rte. 75 at Melli K. (ii.) Ardahan
to BalAm. The road runs through a
difficult country rtd the Yaliniz-chamo
pass, Ardanuch , and Artvin (p. 214).]
There are two roads to Akhaltsikh.
The old road , 81 v., by Kar Kiadan ,
Zurmal (28 v.), Digvir (23 v.), aud
Vale (18 v.) ; and tho new road , 88 v.,
which crosses the Punsulvk D. % and
runs through Lower Takin, Lower
Tamal (28 v.% Khanion (18 v., P.8.)
td Badeln (22 v.% whenoo the Abbas
Turnon ehaussde is followed to
Akhaltsikh (20 v.). Thcnoo by
Rte. 78 to Mikhailova (73 v.); and
Tifiis.
ROUTE 77.
KAR8-ANI-ALEXANDROPOL.
)tu*.
Jala 1
Aid 1
KIxahovAnk .... I
AtexatMlrupol . . . . S
The road lies over tho plain of
Kara through Subatan (5 hra.) and
Jala (2 bra.) to the ruins of
Ani (1 hr.) on tho it. bank of tho
Digitized by ^.ooQle
220
Route 77. — Ani.
Arpa Chat, onct. Harpasu a, which
formerly separated Georgia from
Armenia. In tho 5th or 6th century,
a.d., Ani became the capital of the
Bagratid branch of Armenian Kings.
Iu 637 the Arabe invaded Armenia,
and in 887 they conferred a tributary
crown on tho lJugratid family. In
1046 the King of Ani transferred his
capital to the Byzantine Emperor;
and in 1063 the town was taken and
pillaged by tho Solj&k Sultan, Alp
Anhui. A fow yean later Aid was
ubandoned.
Tho rutns are situated on a penin-
sula projecting S. between the Arpa
Chai and a deep lateral valley. The
town was thus triangular in form,
and protected, naturally, on two of
its sides. On the third sido thero
were high massive walls flanked by
numerous round towers. Tho t calls,
which uro still in places 40-50 ft.
high, arc built of yellow stono ; and
a striking effect lias been produced
by tho introduction of courses, crosses,
aud ornaments in black basalt. In
tho walls were two gatoways ; one to
tho W. is blocked by fullcn frag-
ments. The other, near the centre,
wldch is still open, was a double gate,
with flanking towers; on the inner
gate are an Armenian inscription and
sculptures. The site is covered with
the debris of ruined houses, of which
about twenty were large public build-
ings. S. of the oentre gate is a large
eftarn/i, built in the form of a Latin
cross, and in a good state of preserva-
tion. The roof, composed of largo
slabs of stone, supported on arches, is
fairly perfect, but tho cupola is
wanting. On tho walls are many
inscriptions. Tho interior consists of
a nave and two side aisles ; the arches
uro round and rest on lofty pillars.
West of the ohurch is a high
miuaret with Arabio inscription ; uud
further 8. on the edge of a precipice
are the ruins of a largo inosque with
a minaret. On a rocky eminence in
the 8. angle, which appears to have
been surrounded by a wall, are the
remains of some small chapels. S.E.
of these is another chapel in good
preservation, with tho conical roof
common to most of the Georgian and
Armenian churches. Returning along
the W. side of tho town, there is first
an octagon chapel , 30 ft. in diameter,
and surmounted by a dome. Tho
extorinr is profusoly ornamented with
traceries, llutings, und deeply carved
twisted headings. Immediately to
the N.E. is anothor richly decorated
church having attached to it a chapel
with a beautiful arched roof, divided
into comportments, filled with mosaics,
and having its walls covered with
rich carvings and sculptured arab-
esques. On the edge of the ravine
near the N.W. comer of tho town aro
tho ruins of an extensive building,
several stories high, which is supposed
to have been the induce. The highly
ornamented gateway, with mosaic
liattcrna in various coloured stones, is
still standing.
Many thousand tombs and caverns
have been excavated in the sides of
tho W. ravine ; and tho interiors of
some of them have boon ornamented
with architectural designs, or rude,
ill-carved figures. On the E. side of
tho town are the buttresses of a high,
narrow bridge that apparently spanned
the gorge or the Arpa Chai.
1 hr. after leaving Ani wo reach
tho Monastery of Khodtevankj where
quarters can bo obtained for tho
night : and continuing up the rt. bank
of the river wo enter
Alexandropol (7 bra.), soo Ktc. 75.
Digitized by i^ooQle
Route 78. — Akhalkalaki — Akhaltsikh 221
ROUTE 78.
ALEXANDROPOL— AKHALKALAKI—
AKHALTSIKH — TIFLIS.
YKKKTf.
Shlsh-trpe ....
. 41
Akhalkalaki .
. m
Aspinza . .
. m
Akhaltsikh
. 30
Uorjom ....
. 40
Mikhailova
. 37
TUlls, by Hall.
Between Alexandropol and Akhal-
kalaki the road crosses a desolate
volcanic district, bare of trees bat
well watered. The villagers in the
8. part of this district are chiefly
Moslems and Greeks; those in the
N. part belong mostly to the religious
scot Douhobortsy, “wrestlers with
the spirit,” whose tenets are closely
allied to thoso of the Molokani. Tho
stations on the road are Jelab kcui
(28 v.), whence there is a fine view of
the Alageuz D.; Skish-tepe (18 v.);
Yefrcmovka (21 v.), alt 6500 ft, on
the shore of lake Madatapa; and
Jhgdafiovka (17 v.), alt 6100 ft., to
the E. of lake Khonchalu.
Akhalkalaki (18 v.), alt 5545 ft, is a
military station situated on a narrow
strip of tho bare plateau, betwoen
two deep ravines. Though it is said
to have been one of the finest cities
of Armenia tliero are few traces of its
former greatness. The citadel, carried
by assault in 1828 after a memorable
defence by tho Turkish garrison, is
now a barrack. The population is
chiefly Moslem and Armenian. There
is a tine view, E. and N.E., of tho
Mohri D.
[There nrc roads from A. (i.) to Tiflis viA
Lake Toporovan ; (ii.) to Kars rid Lake
Chaldir ; (iii.) to Aidahan ; and (iv.)
to Borjom, passing near Lake Tnbis-
khnri, and crossing the wooded heights
to Tsagveri ; this road, which is only
metalled from the watershed to Borjom,
is closed abont the middle of No-
vember.]
Leaving Akhalkalaki the Toporo-
van Su is crossed by a wooden bridge,
and the gorge is followed down to
Abbas Bey (18 v.), situated about
600 ft below the level of the plateau.
The rood now ascends gradually to
Ilixia Bavlos (Georgian), and runs
through llirir Herts (Moslem) to
Khertviu -a village, with terraced
gardens and orchards, in the angle
formed by the Kur, and the Toporo-
van. It is connected with the opposite
banks of both rivers by bridges, and
above it is an old castle. Following
the rt bank of the Kur, the road
passes an old round tower at Aspinza
(18 v.\ and a Georgian village and
church high up on a spur (L) ; and
crosses the river by a line bridge, 5} v.,
before entering
Akhaltsikh (30 v.),a military station
on a rooky plateau above the Poskov
Chai. It was an important town ot
Georgia, and its inhabitants are
largely of Georgian descent. Abovo
the old town, in which is a flno
mosque, is a castle ; and 8. of it is a
Russian and Armenian suburb, with
a college and library. Thcro is a
good trado in silk, honey, and wax ;
fruit is good and abundant; and
maize, wheat, flax, tobacoo, and cotton
are grown.
[From Akhaltsikh there is a good
road to Abbas Tuman (24 v.), the resi-
dence of Grand Duke George, brother
of tho Emperor, in a narrow pinc-clad
valley. Thence thcro is a jmst road by
Bagdad (88 v.), a primitive Hydro-
pathic Establishment, to Kutais (50 v.) ;
and another to Mikhailova (07 v.).]
After passing several villages sur-
rounded by poplars and fruit trees,
the road crosses the Kur by a bridge,
near tho old fortresses of A'/.ktir and
Sclcsar, and 12 v. further on enters
Stroshno Ohon (32 v.). Here the
open country is left, and the scenery
improves.
Boijom (14 v.), several villages and
Digitized by L^ooQle
222
lioutc 79.: — Hassau-haleh .
detached houses in a pine forest, is
much frequented in summer for its
mineral waters. H. I. H. the Grand
Duke Michael has a palace here and
owns much of tho land in tho neigh-
borhood. A railway , which runs
down tho gorge of the Kur t through
a forest of oak, Deeoh, &c., has recently
been opened.
Mikhailova (27 v.), whenco Tittis,
Potf, orBatftm can bo reached by rail.
ROUTE 79.
A A
ERZERUM-
BAYEZID-TABRIZ.
n us.
Hasaan-kaleti
.... 6
1 loll tabu .
. . 9*
Zeldikan .
. . . 9*
Kara-klltase
.... 6
Ditullii
. 10*
Itayezitl
. . . . o
Kara-alncli
. . . . 10*
Kh«l
. . . . is
FA Its.
Tabriz
. . . . 5»f
f 'Hie faraakh In from 3* to 4 Eng. m.
The caravan route to Persia is open in
winter, but it is intensely cold, and heavy
snowstorms and “ blizzards ” are not un-
common in the passes. Winter travellers
arc recommended to wear fur-lined lx>ots,
and have their stirrups covered with felt.
Accommodation and supplies are alike
indifferent.
Leaving Erzor&m by the Kars Gate,
tho rood runs between the Palon-
loken D. (rt.) and some fortified heights
(L), and passing a track (1.) to the
Monastery of Lusavoricli, crosses tho
Deve-boynn , “ camel’s neck,” Pass.
Prom tho summit there is an exten-
sive, but dreary view E. over tho
Passin Plain, and occasionally a
glimpse of Ararat. Tho viow fairly
represents the character of the district
that stretches E. and 8., — treeless
lains, partially cultivated, shut in
y hare mountain slopes. On tho
stoop rooky declivities in tho fore-
ground tlio Turks, under Muklitnr
Pasha, mode their final stand against
the Russians in the last campaign.
During late yoars the Deve-loyun
position hasbeen greatly strengthened
oy tho construction of several forts.
Desoending and fording' the shallow
Nebi Chfti, the Upper Passin Plain,
very fertile and 5-6 m. wide, is
crossed to KurnjuJ:, and
Hauan-kaleh (6 lira.), tho cliiof
town of tho Passin Koza. It is an
old walled town, at the foot of a 'spur,
projecting from the mountains to tho
N., on which is a mediaeval castle,
onco of great strength. On tho oppo-
site side of tho Nebi Cliai arb hot
springs (sulphur and iron), two of
which, temp. 105 1 * F., are ‘ much
frequented by tathora for their medi-
cinal properties. Tho road keeps to
the N. side of the plain as far as
Kenpri K. (2} hra.), where the Kars
rood (Rto. 75) turns off L, and, a little
further, crosses the A raxes by a fine
stone bridge of 6 arches, Choban
Kenpri. It then runs for six hra.
over the Lower Passin Plain, passing
Amralaim> Khosroveran t and Koman -
aor, to tho mouth of a gorge in which,
I m. up a sido valley, is
Delibaba (7 hra.), a small village,
whence a track runs E. to Kara-kilisse
(the Turkish frontier post), 4 hra.,
Bash K., 1| lira, and Surikamish,
II lira. Returning to the gorge, the
road runu between ilofty rocks of fine
colours, and in 1 J lira, passes a valley
up which a track runs 1., via Ghat,
to Mollah Suleiman in tho Alaslt-
gerd valley. At Ethel- Elias (Kurd),
where the Russians suffered a reverse
during tho last war, tho road is
joined by two mountain-tracks from
Ohoban lveupri, one of which passes
by Haidar Korn, and immediately 8.
of tho Yazili Tasli — a lofty crag, on
which there is a cuneiform inscription.
Digitized by e^ooole
Route 7i>. — Zeidikan— Viadin.
223
From Eslick Elias there are two roads :
one, the military road, Atkiar Ydt
keeps to the rt ; the other, from which
a truck loads rt. to Khinis, runs by
Dakar (4 J hrs.), whore tho Turks wero
defeated, Kith June, 1877, and ovfer
the pans, 7850 ft, to Kurd Alt , in the
valley of tho Shavian Su. Further
on the roads rejoin and run down
the valley to
Zeidikan (5 hrs.) iu tho Alasligcrd
plain, a district that suffered terribly
from tho ravages of war in 1829, 1854,
and 1878, and from the famine of
1879-80.
[(i.) Zeidikan to Melasgerd (p. 281).
16 hrs. The road rnns through several
Yczidi villages, (ii.) Zeidikan to Kag hu-
man. Over tho plain to Mollah Suleiman
and Toprak Kalah (S hrs.), the chief town
of the Alashgerd district, above which are
the mins of an old castle. The population
is Armenian, and on a stone built into the
Armenian school is a short cuneiform
inscription. A track crosses the range
to the N. by a pass between tho sharp
cone of Ktiusso 1). (1.), a lofty pyramid
5000 ft. above the plain, nod llio Kgrl
11. (K.)# The doscent on tho N. side is
very, difficult. From Kaghisman there
is a good road (p. 216) to Kars.]
The Bayezid road crosses tho Alosh-
gord Plain to* Kata-kililwt (6 hrs.),
the seat of a Kaimakam, and noted
for its carpots and felt. 1 m. to the
R. the Murad Su, after receiving the
Rlmrian, turns 8., and a rOad runs
down its ft. bank to Asmer and Melas-
gerd (p. 281): We now ascend the
narrow valley of the eastern arm of
the Euphrates, anck ArsantTts, called
Murad Su, from the numerous bli&ns,
bridges, and roads built by Murad IV.
in the district through which it runs.
The road keeps to tho rt. bank, through
Yunja and Kazi, and passes Sofian ,
Gerger (Persian), whore tho Alashgcrcl
dain ends, and Gelasur on tho 1. luink,
joforc entering
T&shli-chai (6 hrs.), a village of
Persians. \Tashli-chai to Kara-mdak
(15 hrs.). After following the Bayezid
road for 1 lir., tho track turns off 1.,
and ascends to the Kurd village Leshki
(2 hrs.), alt 6450 ft, and Areta. It
then crosses tho watershed, 8170 ft.,
whence there is a fl no view 8. over tho
Euphrates Valloy, to JUilutdi Gent.
7890 ft, a lako at the foot of tho bare
hills, which is oclobmtod for its ffsh
(three kinds of trout, running to 5
and 6 lbs., and carp up to 4 lbs.). The
descent is continued down the valley
of the Balukli C\in\ to Mossun (7 hrs.),
a largo walled village, whence there
are two easy passes over the Zor D. to
Igdir. The track runs on to the
walled village of Kuruk ; the largo
walled Armenian village of Arzab,
alt 5720 ft (easy pass to Russian
territory bv Kochu and Murchi) ; and
Kara-bulak (6 hrs.), whence by Rto. 80
to Igdir (7J hrs.).]
Uoh-Kilisse,or 8urp Okannss (2 hrs.),
a village on the 1. bank of the .river,
here crossed by a bridge, with a
monastery said to have been built
A . 9 . 306. The massive church, erected
according to tradition by the architect
of Echmiadzin, is the only ono loft of
Hid “ throe churches’* from which the
place is supposed to tako its name.
It is built of large blocks of black and
grey stone; ana resembles some of
the Lombard obnrohes.
Diadin (2} hrs ), alt 6400 ft, is a
largo village ( J Moslem, 4 Armenian),
once walled, on tho rt. bank of the
Murad Su, which here runs in a deep
gorge. . On the edge of the precipice
are the ruins of a castle. About 5 m.
tip the, rt bank of the Murad 8n,
which runs down from the 8., are
some romarkable* hot sulphur springs.
The water rises in numerous small
jets, and the ground is covered with
green, yellow, and white deposits.
Two great barriers of the deposit,
from which hang stalactites, stretch
across the rivor. Several rough baths
have boon cut in tho rock by the
natives, who are fully alive to tho
medioinal properties of tho water.
[There are three routes from Diadin
to Vfln. (i.) In 25£ hrs. by a summer
road over tho mountains to J’ergri
Digitized by ^.ooQle
224
Route 79 . — Bayeztd — Ararat.
(11 hrs.), and tlicnce by Rtc. 81 to Yah
(14$ hrs.). (ii.) In 36 hrs. via Karaja
(8 hrs.) : the Gaincspi Pass (3 hrs.), alt.
10,800 it ; the sulphur springs near
Nassau Avder (7 hrs.) and Aganz
4 hrs.). Thence by Rte. 82 to van
19 hrs.). (iii.) In 46 hrs. via Malkhas
(10 hrs.), and Patnotx (9 hrs.) to Aganz
(8 hrs.), and Yan (19 hrs.).]
The Euphrates is now left, and in
1 hr. the road crosses a not whence
there is a fine view of the broad mass
of Ararat. The views of tho moun-
tain from the Russian side are far
more striking, but that from the col
has a grand simplicity that can hardly
bo equalled. Descending to tho
valley of tho llalukli Ohui tho road
runs over a stony uneven plain. 4 hrs.
from Diadin, the caravan route to
Persia turns up a valley rt. to Kizil-
diza (see below), whilst that to Bayczid
koeps to the plain.
Bayesid (6 hrs.), alt. G000 ft., a
border fortress, nud the oliief town of
a Sunjak, stands on tho site of tho
old f Armenian town Vahovan, and is
picturesquely situated in the centre
of an amphitheatre of rocky hills.
On a hill commanding the town is
a fine old castle. The knife-edged
rocks of schist and slate S.E. of the
town aro of geological interest Tho
town is poor and lho bazar badly
supplied. The principal object of in-
terest is the palace and stronghold of
the former governors, which was built
by a Persian architect, and considered
one of the most beautiful buildings in
Turkey. It has suffered much from
war and earthquakes. During tho last
war Bayczid was noted for the gallant
defence of its oitadel by a small
Russian garrison, and for a massacre
of Christians in its streets.
Ararat The famous mountain
called by tho Turks Eyri £>., “ Painful
mountain,'* by the Armenians Mazsiz ,
and by tho Persians Kohi-Nuh ,
"Mountain of Noah," stands nearly
midway between tho Block Sea and
the Cospiau. With the former it is
connect d by the Rivir Acampsis,
with tho latter by the Araxes. It
rises from a massive mountain base
that dominates alike the plain of tho
Araxes and tho Armenian plateau,
and attains an altitude of 17,260 ft.
Ou tho same massive baso, about 7 m.
E. of Ararat, stands “ Little" Ararat,
alt 13,000 ft Both mountains ore
extinct volcanoes, and the summit of
the higher is covered with perpetual
snow. Ou “ Little ” Ararat the threo
Empires of Russia, Turkey and Persia
meet. Ararat itself is Russian, form-
ing part of tho territory ceded by
Persia in 1828.
Tho ascent of Ararat requires threo
days, and, as tho ]>ooploof tho district
believe the mountain to bo inacces-
sible, the traveller will have to trust
to his own resources during tho last
and most difficult part of his task.
Tho best route for a single man, or
Yory small party, is up the S.E. face
from tho Oossook post at Sardar-bulak ,
between tho two Ararats, which can
bo reached on horsoback cither from
Bayczid, or from Aralik on tho Rus-
sian side. Tho ascent from Aralik
has the advantage that the route is
outirely within Russian territory. It
has been made by Abich, Chodzko,
and Mr. Bryce. That from Bayezitl
was made by some of the British
members of the Boundary Commission
in 1856. The first ascent was made
in 1829 by Parrot, who encamped
above the Kip Geul, and attacked the
N.W. face. This route is prolmbly
the easiest and least fatiguing for a
party. The S. W. slope is also believed
to be practicable, but it has never
been attempted. The route from
Bayczid lies for 1 $ hrs. across a marshy
plain, on which thero is good shooting,
and then crosses tho ridgo between
Ararat and “ Little ” Ararat to Sar-
dar-bulak, where there is a well.
From this point Mr. Bryce, in 1877,
took 13| hrs. to reach the summit ; it
is therefore desirable to push on be-
yond it and sleep as near the snow-
line os possible. The summit is clear
in the early morning, but cloud begins
to form soon after 10 a.m. Mr. Bryeo
give s a graphic account of his ascent,
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route *t§. — Ararat.
225
Mid of the panorama visiblo from tho
summit. He thus writes:—
“All was cloud on every side.
Suddenly, to my astonishment, the
ground began to fall away to the
no^tli; I stopped, a puff of wind
drove off tho mists on one side, the
opposite side to that by which I had
come, and showed the Araxes plain. at
an abysmal depth below. It was the
top of Amrat Two or three, minutes
afterwards another blast cleared the
air a little to the west, which had
hitherto been perfectly thick, disclos-
ing a small snow valley, and boyond
it, a quarter of a mile off, another
top, looking about tho same height
as tho one I stood on. Remembering,
what I had strangely forgotten on
tho way up, that thcro aro two tops
— one sees tliem distinctly from Eri-
van end Aralik — I ran down tho
steep, soft sides of the snow valley,
across it in the teeth of tho blast, and
up the easy acclivity to the other top,
reaching it at 2.25 r.M. It is cer-
tainly tho liighor of tho two. Both
tops arc gently sloping domes or broad
convex hummocks of snow, on which
there is not a trace of rock, nor a trace
of tho crosses which first Turret and
afterwards Cltodzko set up, just ns
little os of Noah's ship ilscrlf. One
thought of the pictures of childhood,
tho Ark resting on a smooth, round,
grassy eminence, from which tho
waters aro receding, while tho
Patriarch looks out of tho window,
and compared them with this snow-
filled hollow, just largo enough to
havo held the vessel comfortably,
raised 15,000 ft abovo the surround-
ing oountry. Neither is there any
sign of a crater. You might describe
tho whole top as a triimgnlar undu-
lating plain, rather more than half as
big as tho Green Park in London,
descending gently on the N.W. with
extensive terraces liko fields of nM,
less .gently townrds the N.N.E., but
steeply on all other sides, and on the
E. breaking off, after a short snow-
field, in the tremendous precipices
that overhang tho chasm of Arguri.
Thero was nothing about it to suggest
an extinct volcano, were it not known
[Turk*]
to be one. But in the agos that havo
elapsed since tho time when eruptions
took place from the great central
chimney of the dome, a time probably
far more remote than that when tho
minor cones that stud the flanks of
the mountain were ootive, all sorts of
changes may have taken place, and
the summit we now see may be merely
the bottom of an ancient crater, whose
craggy rim has been altogether broken
away. Looking around, it was bard
to imagine that volcanic fires had ever
raged on such a spot, robed as it now
is in perpotual winter.
“ Immeasurably extensive and
grand as the view was, it was also
strangely indefinite. Every moun-
taineer knows that the highest views
ore seldom tho finest ; and hero wos
ono so high that tho distinctions of
hill and valley in the landscape were
almost lost. Ararat towers so over
all his neighbours, much more than
Mont Blanc or ’oven Elbruz do over
theirs, that they seem more hillocks
on a uniform fiat. Tho only rivals
aro in tho Caucasus, which one can
just make out all along the northern
sky. Kazbek and Elbruz, the latter
280 miloa away, pro visible.
“ More tluin 200 miles away I could
just descry the faint blue lops of tho
Assyrian mountains of Southern
Kurdistan, tho Qnrdu land, whero
Chaldee tradition places tho frag-
ments of the Ark; mountains that
look down on Mosul and thoso huge
mounds of Nineveh by which tlio
Tigris flows. Below and around, in-
cluded in this single view, seemed
to lie tho wholo cradle of the human
race, from Mesopotamia in the south
to the great wall of the Caucasus
that covered the northern horizon,
tho boundary for so many ages of the
civilised world. If it was indeed hero
that man first set foot again on the
unjtcoplod earth, one could imagino
how the great dispersion went as tho
races spread themselves from these
sacred heights along the courses of tho
great rivers down to the Black and
Caspian Seas, and over tho Assyrian
plain to tho shores of the Southern
Ocean, whence they were wafted
Q
Digitized by
Google
226
Route 80. — Khoi — Kara-Udak.
away to other continent® and isles.
No more imposing oentre of the world
could be imagined. In the Talley of
the Aroze8 beneath, the valleY which
Armenian legend has selected as the
seat of Paradise, the valloy that has
boen for 8000 years the high-road for
armies, the scene of so muon slaughter
and misery, there lay two spots which
seemed to mark tho first ana the latest
points of authentic history. One,
right below me, was the ruined
Artaxata, built, as the tale goes, by
Hannibal, and stormed by the legions
of Lucullus. The other, far to the
N.W., was the hollow under the hills
in which lies tho fortress of Kars,
where our countrymen fought in 1854,
and where tho flames of war were so
soon again to bo lighted.”
From Bayezid a road, skirting the
marshes, runs to the Persian frontier
post Surp-khdn , whence there is a
track, via Moku, to {ho Tabriz road.
It is better, however, to rejoin tho
caravan road at Kixil-disa (3 lira.),
tho Turkish frontier post, which ' is
6J hrs. from Diudin (p. 228). 2 hrs.
after leaving Kizil-aiza, we 'pass
Teperia K. t where tho rood to Van
(Bte. 81) turns off to the rt., and 1 m.
further we cross the KazliOedik Bel,
— a low cel. where tho Turoo-Porsian
boundary is marked by a ruined
tower. Descending to Ovajik , the
Persian frontier post, we afterwards
pass through Kilieae Xendi (Arme-
nian), Anw^diza (Armenian), in tho
cenlro of a plain, and Ak-dita, to tho
large village of
Kara-alneh (7} hrs.). Thonce the
road runs through Tegneah , Kirk-
kendi , and Zeiva to Zorava (7 hrs.).
Wo now cross some low hills to Fire
(7 hrs ), in the Kara-dasht Dere,
whence there is an easy rood to Kotur
(p. 235).
Shot (4 hrs.), an important com-
mercial town, situated in a rich well-
cultivated valley about 15 m. by 10 m.
Tho town is surrounded by a double
enceinte of mud fortifications, and is
entered by two gates. Canals from
tho Khoi Chai, bordered by willows,
run through the principal streets.
The bazdra, built of brick, are amongst
the finest in Persia. The plain, which
is shut in by mountains, produces
large quantities of corn, cotton, and
rice, and it is studded with Armenian
villages. The population of the town,
20,000, is, with the exception of about
100 Armenian families, Persian.
[From Khoi there are roods to Julfa,
Van (Rio. 82), Urmia, Ac.]
There ore two roods, both running
through rich, well-cultivated districts,
from Khoi to Tabriz. One vid Maraud
(Rte. 80) ; the other by Taauj (9 fain. ),
and Aliahah (8 furs.), to
Tabriz (6 fora.). See Rte. 110.
ROUTE 80.
BAYEZID— IQDIR— ECHMIADZIN—
ERIVAN— TIFLI8.
K&ra-bulak .
UBS.
. . . 3* »
Orloff
IgUlr. . .
• . • 8
Kchmiadsln .
Y BUSTS.
. 38
Eriv&n
. . . 18
Klenofka .
. «3
Deltjan
. 40*
AksUCa .
. . . 62
Tiflia, by Rail .
. . . 70
Ascending from Bayezid the road
runs N.W. over the plain, skirting
the marshes, and crossing tho stream
from Kizil-diza, and tho Balukli
Ohni, beyond which there is a track
(1.) to Arzab (p. 228).
Kara-bulak (8| hrs.), a small vil-
lage and frontier post whence there
are three routes to Igdir. The fi rat,
Digitized by L^ooQle
227
Route 80 . — Orloff — VagharshabacL
and most eastern, is a bridle-path
naming under the great western spur
of Ararat. The second, by the Hach
Bel, is also a bridle-path. The third,
by the Jili or Chengel Bel, is passable
for carts. It runs through Ortalu
and ascends the grassy slopes, by easy
gradients, to the head of the pass
(Russian frontier), — an open glade,
$ m. wide, all 6880 fl To the W.
are Jili, and a number of grassy
summits; to the N. is the plain of
Erivan, spread out like a map, and
beyond it rises the massive Alageuz
D. The descent is rapid, and near
the road are two old craters.
Orloff (4} hrs.), alt. 4100 ft.* a well
laid-out frontier poet (passports shown)
with a small barrack. The road now
descends to the plain, 2800 ft., and
crosses it to Sultan Emin, a suburb
of
Igdir (3 hrs.), all 2850 fl, a small
town surrounded by orchards and
gardens. It is the seat of a Russian
governor, and has a small garrison
of local troops. Most of tho people
are Tatars from Azerbijon who wear
the Persian costume. The plooo is
unhealthy and tho water bad.
[(i.) Igdir to Alcxandropol , 127$ v.
Near Amarat (25 v.), a military station,
are the ruins of Armavir (cun. inscr.),
the Armauria of Ptolemy, situated on
the 1. bank of the A raxes. It was the
capital of tho Armcninn kings of the
llaikian dynasty, and, according to a
cuneiform inscription it was at one time
a frontier town of Van. To the N. is
Sardar-abad (25 v.), whence it is 77$ ▼.
to Alecandropol (p. 217). fii.) There is
a road vid Tash-burun to Aralik at the
foot of Ararat (p. 224).] .
From Igdir a broad unmetalled
rood runs over the plain to Kara-
Koilu , Echdia,\uad the river Araxes,
which can bo ferried, or, in summer,
forded. On the L bonk is Markers
(18$ v.), whence there is a metalled
chausede to the hamlet of
Yagharshabad, or Viathataban
(19$ v.), the ancient capital and resi-
dence of the kings of Armenia until
a.d. 344, having been founded in the
6th oenl b.o. Pop. 3000. Wine of
ten sorts is produced in this neigh-,
bourhood. Here is the celebrated
Monastery of Echmiadiin, the cradle
of the Gregorian Oliurch and tho
residence of the Armenian Gatho-
licos.
Entering within the battlementcd
and tnrreted high walls by which the
monastery is surrounded, the traveller
will visit the Cathedral, which is
alleged to have been rebuilt a.d. 618.
Modern restoration in the Russian
style has preserved its ancient ap-
pearance only in the richly-carved
tower over the W. end and in the
beautiful belfry, which remains, in
red stone. The open towers above
each transept wing were erected in
1691, and the profusely sculptured
porch of red porphyry dates from
1655. Olose by are the tombs of two
Catholiooi in Oriental marble, and to
the rt on entering the edifice is a
handsome white marble tombstone,
placed by the East India Company
to the memory of Sir John Maodonald,
British envoy to Persia, who died in
tho neighbourhood from the effects
of the climate and over-fatigue.
Although richly paintod and gilt in
old designs, the interior is gloomy
and ineffective. In front of the altar,
in the middle of tho pem, or carpeted
raised course in the central aisle, are
paintings on alabaster of tho Apostles,
with tho Virgin and Child in tho
middle. The Prophets are repre-
sented in the transept chapels. U ndor
the dome, between the latter, is a
tabernacle marking the spot where
the Lord descended in a vision to
8. Gregory. The throne of hand-
somely carved walnut wood was the
gift of Pope Innooent XL (17th cent);
the other in tortoiseshell and mother-
of-pearl, of very intricate work, was a
gift from the Armenians at 8myrna,
1726. With the permission of the
Catholicos the SaerUty can be in-
spected. Its greatest treasure is
the head of the spear with which our
Saviour’s side was pierced. It was
brought to Armenia a.d. 34 by the
Q 2
Digitized by L^ooQle
$2d Route 80 . — Erivan - — Bash-garni.
Apostle Thaddctts. The next pre-
cious relic is the baud of S. Gregory,
with which the sick are healed and
other miracles performed : the Arme-
nian Patriarchs being also conse-
crated with it. There is also a piooe
of Noah's Ark delivered by an angel
to 8. James of Nisibis. The mis-
cellaneous eoclesiostical treasures
comprise vestments, mitres, crosiers
in gold, silver, Ac., iewellod orna-
ments and church plate; the only
profane object in the collection being
a gold coronet worn by Tiridates,
who is believed to have founded the
Ohs. of 8 . Rhipsime and 8. Quiane ,
near the monastery.
The Library, rich in old MSS. in
the Armenian language, is worthy of
inspection. There are about 1800
vols., many of immense size and on
parchment. We may mention a Testa-
ment of the 10th cent., beautifully
illuminated: 8 Bibles of the 13th
cent., one of the 14th artistically
illuminated, and another of the end
of the 17th cent., with arabesques
and figures.
To the S. of the monastery is a
large Reservoir ; also the Cemetery
with peculiur ancient Armenian tomb-
stones over the remains of monks.
Tho monastery is viewed with advan-
tage from this point. At Isolagerd ,
near Echmiadzin, are cuneiform in-
scriptions.
From Echmiadzin it is about 2 hrs.'
drivo through Shir-abad, and Jufar-
abud , where are the remains of a
brick tower, commemorating a Persian
victory, to
Erivan (18 v.), the chief town of a
province, on the 1. bank of the river
Zanga, Armenian Hrastan. The pop-
ulation, 15,000, is principally Arme-
nian. Eriyan, called Rewan by the
Persians, existed in the 7th cent.,
and was subsequently fortified by tho
Persian kings. It is overlooked by a
fortress which was carried by assault
in 1827 by the forces under Prince
Poskievitcn, on whom wob bestowed
tho title of “ Erivanski." Within
tho fortress arc the government offices
and the Palace of the Persian Vice-
roys. The town oontains a bazar ,
barracks, a club, two publio gardens,
a handsome Armenian church , dedi-
cated to 8. Sergius, and 5 mosques, of
which one ( Hussein Alt Khan ) has a
dome and minaret covered with glazed
blue tiles. The old Persian part of
the town, with its narrow crooked
lines, is of interest. (For further in-
formation , see Handbook to Russia.)
Travellers are recommended to
make an exeursion to Keghart
(Ghergar) Monastery. A drive of
4 hrs. in a carriage brings the tra-
veller through the singular basaltic
valley of the Garni, to Bash-garni, a
small but ancient village inhabited
by herdsmen and wood -cutters. On
the way two villages are passed, near
the last of which are clifis perforated
with crypts. The rutin of tho “ throne
of Tiridates," a temple or palace, are
to the S.W. of the present village.
Its walls of massive blocks of grey
porphyry are entered through an arch
of comparatively modem construction.
It was built by Tiridates, King of
Armenia, and is supposed to have
been erected by Greek workmen.
Traces of fortifications are visiblo
among the hills to the N.
From Bash-Garni, the monastery
can bo reached in a couple of hours
on horseback, by a bridle-path over
successive arid downs. It lies on tho
N. sido of a wild and nuked glen of
the OokclM valley , on tho summit of a
precipice at tho foot of which Hows
the Garm-chat. Capt. Telfer has
S ven a very complete and interest-
g description of this remarkable
monastery, and his work should be
consulted for details which cannot
find place in a Handbook. According
to that authority tho monastery was
the seat of one of the earliest bishop-
rics founded by 8. Gregory, the first
Patriarch of Armenia, in tho 3rd cent
The Ch ., restored 1136, is a smull
cruciform edifice under the ledge of a
rock; its arched entrance is richly
sculptured, and tho walls of the in-
terior (lighted from the dome) have
Digitized by
Google
Boute 81. — Tovin.
229
inscriptions recording its bistory.
Oapt Telfer soys it would fill a
Tolume to transcribe all those ancient
and interesting inscriptions, the most
important of which he has been the
first to rcproduco in a European lan-
guage. Forty crypt chapels and cells
extend from the Gh. in a westerly
direction. One of these, the Rusukna
Sanctuary . is of special interest
Another sanctuary (also 13th cent.)
has curious wall sculptures, of which
drawings will bo found in (Japt Tel-
ler's book.
Excursions can also be mado to
the ruins of Tovin, Armenian Devin,
founded by Kliosroes II. (316-25),
and for 6 centuries the capital of
Armenia. And to the ruins of Artax-
ata, Ardathad, said to have been
built by Hannibal for Artaxias (b.c.
189-159). Both places are within
easy reach of Erivan.f
form inscription; croseos the high
und between the snow peaks of
D. (11,711 ft) on the rt., and
Alageuz D. (13,436 ft) on the 1., to
Suhaya Fontanka (19$ v.); Nijni-
Akhti (12 y .) ; Elenofka (16$ y.), near
the shore of Lake Gokcha or Seyanga
(lake trout), which is surrounded by
volcanic mountains, and is 43 m. long
by 20 m. wide ; on an island, about
$ in. from tho shore, between Ele-
nofka and Semyonofka, is the pictur-
esque Armenian Monaztery of Sevan,
which is said to haye been founded,
a.d. 805, by Tiridatee; one of the
churches was built a.d. 880 by the
Armenian Princess Takuya; Semy-
onofka (21$ v.), near the N. end of the
lake ; over a pass, 7124 ft, to Delijan
(18j y.) ; whence by Rte. 75 to Akztafa
(62 y.) on the Tiflis-Baku Railway*
Tiflis by Bail (p. 218).
[From Erivan to Tabriz.\ There is
a post road to Julfa on the l. bank of
the Araxos, which is crossed in a ferry
boat to tho Persian Custom House on
the opposite side. Thence the journey
must be continued on horseback to
Tabriz. The stations are : — In Russia :
Aahamzali (18 v.) ; Kamarlu (15 v.),
where horses con be hired to visit the
ancient monastery of Khorvirab , con-
taining the well in which 8. Gregory was
confined • for 14 years, and where
travellers, intending to ascend Ararat
from the Russian side, turn off to
Aralik ; Davalu (18| v.) ; Sardarak
(18| v.); Rath Nvrathtn (221 v.) ;
Tala-Arkh (10 v.) ; Kivrag (19 v.) ;
Beuyuk Dinzinthaya (12$ v.) ; Nakhi-
chevan (21 v.), tho most ancient town in
Armenia, and, according to tradition,
the first abode of Noah after he left tho
Ark; Alcnji-chai (24$ v.) { and Julfa
(16 v.). In Persia Atrandibi (6 fore.) :
Maraud (6 fare.) : Sofian (4 fare.) ; and
Tabriz (6 fars.)j,
The post road $ to Akstafa runs by
Exlyartkaya (15 v.), where is a cunei-
f Consult •• The Crimea and Transcaucasia,"
by Capt. J. B. Telfer. K.N.
1 For details of this route, see ' Handbook to
Russia.'
f 8e? * Handbook to Rostfe,'
ROUTE 81.
BAYEZID — PERbRt~*VAN.
Bayexfd-agtia .
Pergrl ( Verkri ) .
Arcliag
Van .
nits.
10
6
*4
This rooto takes tlie traveller
through the summer pastures of tho
Haideranli Kurds, the most powerful
tribe in the oountry. The Haideran-
lis are generally at feud with the
tribee oyer the Persian border, and,
as raids are not uncommon, a Kurd of
the tribe should be taken as guide iu
addition to a zaptieh from Bayesid.
The guide will probably take tho
traveller through his camps instead
of by the direct read, but this will
Digitized by
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230
Route 82 . — Pergri.
give an opportunity of seeing some-
thing of Kurd habits and customs.
From Bayezid the traveller can
K rocood via Kizil-dizo, and Toperis
l. to Bayozid-agha ; or follow the
shorter route across the ridge behind
the town to Jemel-kartm (5 hra).
Thence after a long steep ascent, the
bare plateau, 8510 ft., held by Ismail
Pasha against the Russians during
the last war, is crossed to the plain
of Abatjha. This i»art of the road,
being liable to raids, should be crossed
in' daylight, and travellers should
keep well together. After 1 hr.’s ride
across the plain the Bcnde-Mahi river
is forded, and
Bayesid-agha (5 hrs., Kurd') reached.
Thence the road descends the valloy
of the Bcnde-Mahi, a dear, rapid
torreut which is forded several times,
to
Pergri, l'erkri (5 lire.), alt. 5G00 ft,
tho Bout of a kuiinakaiu. Pcrkri was
one of the important fortresses of the
Byzantine Empire that guarded the
reads from Persia. In the 11th cen-
tury it was in the hands of Aloim, an
Arab Emir, who delivered it up to
Romanus III. Aleim, with Persian
assistance, afterwards took tho place,
but it was recaptured by the Byzan-
tines and Aleim put to death. The
mins of the fortress occupy a detached
height overlooking the river. The
modern village is a wretched place.
On tho mountain side to the N. is the
Monastery of Husganvort, a place of
pilgrimage. From Pergri it is 2 hrs.
to tho Bcnde-Mahi bridge (p. 232),
whero Rte. 82 may bo joined.
The route by LakeArchag runs over
the plain to Bezdig K. % and Kordtoi
(2$ hrs., Armenian). It then rises
steeply and crosses a pass, 7250 ft., to
Akrbulaki and Pirsolan (3 hrs.) on the
Mermid 8u. A small plateau is now
crossed to Kara-kunduz (Armenian;
cuneiform inscription in church of
monastery), and the Arohag Gent, a
salt lake with deep blue water, edged
with a white incrustation of salt.
Tho scenery is striking from the con-
trast of colour betweon the lake and
the surrounding hills. From Arohag
(3 hrs., Armenian) Rte. 82 is followed
to
Van (6 hrs.).
ROUTE 82.
ERZERUM— AQANZ-VAN-KOTUR-
KHOI.
Madrak .
1 IR&.
64
Ko&lu
104
Kara-Cbobua
4
Mclssgcrd .
3
Aganz
16
Merek
10
Van . , .
0
A rebag
0
Serai.
)1
Kotur
tf
Khoi
IS
There is a choice of roads from
Erzerhm to Aganz : —
(i.) 49 hrs. By Rte. 79 to Zcidikan
(26 hrs.) ; over the Kilij Bel to Tut ah
(7 lira.), the chief town of the Antab
Kaza ; ford the Murad Su ( or, in spring,
cross it by a small sheepskin raft (held),
and over pastoral conntry to Vatnots
(8 hrs.) ; by Dcdclu and llaspi-sinck to
Aganz (9 hra.).
(ii.) 66$ hra. By Rte. 79 to Zcidikan
(26 hra.) ; via Khanzir, Derik (ruins
of anct. Armenian church), A *mcr t on
the Murad, and Kara-ugach to
gerd (16 hra.) ; Aganz (16$ hra.).
(iii.) 66 hra. By Rte. 79 to Aara-
kilisse (81 hra.) ; Mandaluk (7 hra.) ;
Suleiman Kumbct (8 hra.) : over the
Ala D.. by the Kilij-gedik Bel to
Zomig (3 hra.) ; Detlelu (4 hra.) ; and
by Chilkani (hot springs), Agbash, and
Vereshart to Aganz (7 nra.).
(iv.) 64$ hra. The post road. By
Rte. 79 to tlassan-kaleh (6 hra.) ^ across
the Passin plain for 2$ hra. to Kctivan ,
and over the hills to the Araxcs, which
is followed for 2$ hrs. to Mtyidlu
Digitized by
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231
Route 82 . — Madrak — Aganz.
(6} lire.), a small village and post sta-
tion ; up the fine gorge of the Araxes, by
a good road, to a bridge (8 hrt.l ; cross
the bridge and over the ridge between
the Araxes and the Euphrates to Agh-
reran (4 hre.) ; Khinis-haUh (8 hre.,
see Rte. 87 ) ; Kara-choban (8 hre.) ;
and Aganz (24 hre.).
(v.) 48| hre. The direct summer road
on leaving Erzerfim runs S. for 2 m.,
and then, ascending by a good road,
crosses the J'aUnioktn V. (979# ft.,
passable May to October), to ,
Madrak (5$ hre., Kurd). The Tek-
man district, with good trout streams
but peopled by Kurds of evil fame, is
now entered, and the road runs
through Tash-Keusseh, Dala , Denghiz ,
and Bhami , to the ford over tlio
Araxes. 1 m. beyond the ford is the
hospitable Kurd .village Chevirme, or
Chaurma (4 hre.), alt. 6645 ft. When
the water is high a longer route from
Dala to Kulli, and the bridge over
tho Araxes (iv.) is followed. From
Chevirme the road, passing several
villages (rt. and L), crosses the Tektab
D. to
Koslu (6J hre.) in the valley of the
Khinis ChaL The winter road from
Erzerfim crosses the Deve-boyun Pass
(p. 222), and runs in 11 hre. by Hertef
to Mejidlu, and thenoe in 9 hre. over
the Tektab D. to Koslu. The Khinis
valley, in which 44 great M and 14 little n
bustard, sand grouse, Ac., are plenti-
ful, is now followed down, past
Todveran, to
Kara-Ghoban (4 hre.), a large flour-
ishing village.
[From Kara-Choban to Alhlat (p.
286), there is a good road, (17 hre.), by
Karaghil to the ferry (raft of Melt)
over the Murad Su (4 hre.) ; by Tegut to
Gop (2 hre.)* the chief town or the
Biilantk Kaza ; by Perim to Natlb
Geul (7 hrs.), a pretty oval lako. 10 m.
N. to 8., surrounded by wooded hills,
alt 6000 ft., fine trout; Akhlat (4
hre.).]
One m. from Kara-Cboban tho
Khinis Chai is crossed by the Kara
Kenpri t and near the Kuminji salt
works the same river is forded. The
way then lies over stony uplands to
Nuxeddin (6 hre.), whence there is a
desoent to a ford over the Murad, *1 m.,
before reaching
•Melasgerd, or Manzikert, anct Mana-
vasagerd (2 hre.), now a village,
but once a place of importance. It
was ono of tne ancient towns of Ar-
menia, and preserved its indopondonco
until it was taken by the 8eljflk
Sultan Alp Arslan. The castle whioh
the Ten Thousand reached 4 days
after leaving the Teleboas was possibly
at Melasgerd; and near tho same
plaoe was. fought the battle (26th
Augt., 1071) in which the Byzantine
Emperor Homan us IV. (Diogenes)
was defeated and made prisoner by
Alp. Arslan. There are remains of
tho town walls, of black basalt, on
which are many inscriptions ; and of
the citadel ; and tombs with Armenian
inscriptions. The rood now crosses
tho lava bed N. of the Sipan D.
(n. 236), whioh rises majestically on
tho rt., and passos through tho villagoa
of Kara-haya (Armenian), Penauisk ,
Hachlu (6 hre.). Keuruklu, Zirsklu
(3 hre.), a good halting-plaoe, Panug
and Pertag , to
Agans (7 hre.), the chief town of
the Argisn Kan, and often called
Arpish from the ancient town Argish-
kaleh which it replaced. It is about
2| m. from Lake Van, and noted for
its melons, and the fertility of tho
plain in whioh it lies. Argtih-kaleh,
one of the capitals of the Armenian
Kings, and lstor a residence of the
8oljfik Toghrul Bey, was submerged
by a sudden rise of the waters of the
lake about 50 years ago, and somo
traces of it may be seeu on the shore
near Madna-vank. At Zcmak, 1 m.
E. of Aganz, ore extensive ruins of an
old town ; and at Yilan Task , near it
are tlireo tablots, two of which contain
cuneiform inscriptions of 8arduris.
In the ZGan Dere to the N. are hot
snlphur springs (145° Fah.) whioh are
held in high repute.
(From Argith to Serai (26 hre., p. 236)
Digitized by
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232
Route 82 . — Merck — Van .
there ia oil easy road (tbc shortest route
from Erzcrdni to Khoi) via Pergri,
(p. 230), Kachan, and Guliezin ; ana a
more direct path in 17. lira.]
There is a good carria&o-road, near
the shore of tho lake, from Aganz to
Van. It passes by Haidar-bagh, and
in 4 lira, reaches Ami s near the head
of tho arm of the luke that stretches
out to tho N.E., and is sometimes
called Iiuko Argisli. This part of the
lake is shallow, und according to local
report the remains of a causeway,
running from the vicinity of Amug to
tho N. shore, can be seen beneath the
waters in perfectly calm weather.
Nearly 2 hre. beyond Arnis tho
JBende-Mahi is crossed by a quaint
old bridge, and the road then runs
through ShuJiumbol (Yezidi) to
Xorek, Armenian Deramair (lOhra.),
about GOO ft. above the lake. It has
u shrine of the Virgin to which pil-
grimages aro made on the fepst of
tho Assumption (Aug. 12tli to 24th).
Tho carriage-road follows the shore
and reaches Van in 12 hre. via Shah-
geldi and the bridge over the Mermid
Su. The direct road runs S. for 1 J
hrs. to Janik , a large village, and
then orosses a series of spurs to
Kassim-Oghla (4| hre.), whore the
Mermid Su is forded. Thence it
passes by Poghanie (rt.), and through
.4 pari to Shah-baghi , whence it is
1 hr. across the plain, by the foot of
tho Zcmzem D. % an isolated cluster of
hills, to
Van (4J hre.), alt. 5200 ft., the
capital of tho Van Vil&yet, and a
military statiou. Population , 11,000
Moslems, 14,000 Armenians.
The foundutiou of Van is attributed
by Armenian historians to Semiramis,
and the town is called Shemiruma-
f erd, “the city of Semiramis,” by
loses of Chorene. This story has,
however, been disproved by modem
investigation. The town occupies the
site of Dhuspat , tho Thotpia of Pto-
lemy, the capital of a kingdom of
whi« b the uutiyo u-tmo was jtiaiflai,
the original of Van. The founder of
the oityr i£ unknown, bat there are
inscriptions of Sarduris I. (ctrc. b.o.
833 )j who introduced cuneiform
writing, and of some of hie suc-
cessors (p. 194). Tho citadel wo?,
built by Argistis I., and the fortifica-
tions were completed by his successor.
Sarduris II. not long before the town
was besieged (b.o. 735) by Tiglath
Pileser II. A later king, Rusas,
erected a palace near the city. In
tho Gth century b.o. Van passed into
the hands of tho Persians, and on the
S. side of the ’ citadel-rook there is an
inscription of . Xerxes. A short time
before the expedition of Alexander
tho Great, Van was rebuilt as an
Aryan town, according to Armenian
historians, by a native prinoe called
Van. This town must, however, have
been destroyed,, for \n b.ct. 149 Vag-
harehftg, or Valareaces, the first Ar-
menian King of the line of the Araa-
cidae, found it in ruins and rebuilt it
Tigranes, after his raid into Palestine,
established’ a large colony of Jewish
prisoners in the town. In the middle
of the 4th century a.d. it was cap-
tured by Sapor II., and until it was
taken by the Arabs (ctrc. 640) it was
the capital of an autonomous province
of the Sassanian Empire. Under the
Arabs it retained its autonomy ; but
in 908 the Armenian princes of the
Arzruiiik family mode it the capital
of tho independent province of Vas-
buragan. In 1021 the last king,
Senekherim, exchanged his province
with Bazil II. for the government of
the Sebastian theme (p. 42 ) ; but it
soon passed, a.d. 1050, into the hands
of tho Seljhks. At the end of the
14th century it was captured by Ti-
mOr, after whoso death it was nomi-
nally Persian until tho battle of
Kaldcran (1514) transferred the sove-
reignty to the Osmanlis, who, how-
ever, only occupied tho town in 1543.
In 1G3G it was taken by Shah Abbas,
but the Osmanlis soon recovered the
town, and their difficulty has since
been the management of the Kurds.
In 1845 the town was practically held
by Khan Mahmud, who eventually
surrendered, and w»»a e*ilpd,
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 82 . — Van .
233
Van f is situated iu a wide open
space about 2 m. from Avans, its port
on tbe lake. The castle-rock is about
1100 yds. long, and 800 ft high,
miming nearly due E. and W., and
standing quite alono in the plain. At
cithor end it rises by a gradual ascent,
with a slight depression in the ridge
on both sides of the long and nearly
level summit : in this way its outline
seems to be divided into three parts,
of which tbe two lateral heights are
crowned by forts, and the central one
by a castle. On the N. side, which
faces the lake, the slopes .though
steep are not abrupt, but in the oppo-
site direction the cliffs fall in sheer
precipices from top to bottom through-
out its whole length, forming, as Been
from that side, a most imposing wall.
The city, which is in shape an irre-
gular eblong, lies entirely beneath
this towards the S. ; it is not of great
extent, and is enclosed by a double
wall, partly destroyed, and a small
moat On this side of the cliff, occu-
pying on inncccs8iblo position half-
way down tlio procipico, and looking
llko a shoot of tho Timex newspaper,
is the great trilingual inscription com-
memorating the exploits of Xerxes,
son of Darius.
The castle is entered at the W. end,
and here the wall is built with im-
mense blocks of stone, and is evidently
of ancient construction. The ascent
is along the N. side of tho hill, and
just witliin the inner wall is tho mouth
of a naphtha well In both walls are
fragments of ounoiform inscriptions.
The panorama from tho summit is
enchanting. In front is the expanse
of the blue sparkling lake, with its
circuit of mountains, among which
Sipon and the Nimrud D. are conspi-
cuous ; whilst at a distance of 8-7 m.
in the opposite direction the Varak D.,
10,500 ft., a serrated mountain of
splendid form, dominates tho| plain.
To the 8. are the precipices of Ar-
doet, and the snow-capped mountains
of Kurdistan, and to the W. can be
seen tho peaked island-rock of Akh-
t 8 ms Tocer, • Turkish Armenia and Eastern
Asia Minor/
iamar and the rugged promontory of
Palu D. A little below the summit
of the rock, on the 8. side, are two
sets of rock-hewn chambers, appa-
rently sepulchral. On tho tamo side
but further W., and much lower down,
is another group of rock-hewn cham-
bers, called by travellers Khorkhor ;
near it is an inscription. On tho N.
side of the rook, near the oentre, are
three tablets with inscriptions, and
further E., some way up the hillside,
ore two arched recesses in the rock,
one of which contains an inscription.
At the E. end, above the Tabriz gate,
is another inscription. Some of the
caves are now used for storing ammu-
nition, and admission to the citadel is
refused.
The town is a poor plaoo, with flat-
roofed mud houses and narrow wind-
ing streets. It has four gates , and
amongst the more important mosques
and churches are the Sinanteh and
Khosrev Pasha's Mosques, erected about
1558; the Ulu Jam? ; ond the Ar-
menian Churches of 88, Peter and
Paul ( Chifte Kilisse), in which aro
tliroo cuneiform inscriptions, 8urp
Nichan , and Diramair . In the Church
of 8 . John (in ruins) is an inscription
of Sarduris I.
On the gently sloping ground out-
side the town, especially oh the E.
side, are extensive gardens surround-
ing detached houses in which the
Vali, the Consuls of Great Britain,
llussia, and Persia, tho American and
French Missionaries, and many of tho
woalthy inhabitants, resido. The
gardens cover an area of about 5 m.
by 8 m., and are chiefly vineyards and
orchards of apple, pear, quince, plum,
and apricot They are watered by
copious streams from tho Shemiram
Pud , an artificial eanal about 19 m.
long, which derives its supply from a
magnificent spring near Meshingerd
in tho Hnvazor valley. The canal
is carried across the Khoahab Su by a
wooden bridge, and follows the N.
side of the valley and the hills that
fringe the lake to the vicinity of Van.
Tho masonry of tbe retaining walls
is in part very ancient Tho water
contains sulphates and carbonate of
Digitized by L^ooQle
234
Route 82 . — Van.
lime, and is not drinkable. The ancient
system of underground conduits for
tho supply of water to the gardens
iq also interesting.
Trade is still in its infancy ; fifty
years ago Venetian beads were the only
European imports, but now the small
bazar is fairly supplied with European
goods. The dimale is very cold in
winter, hot in summer, and malarious
and unhealthy in autumn. Slight
shocks of earthquake are frequent, and
more severe ones occasional, — the lost
was February 6th. 1891.
Van is the head-quarters of a very
flourishing American Mission, with
resident doctor, which has established
oXcollont schools for boyB and girls,
and, in 1879, placed a small steamer
on the lake. There is also a French
(Dominican) Mission, with schools.
Environs . — Several excursions may
bo inode from the town. At Kalejix
(1 m. N.), called Lezk by the Arme-
nians, from a legend connected with
tlio restoration to life of the mythical
Kin^ Aram who fell in battle against
Somirarais, are a church, with an
inscription of Isbuinis, and a small
chapel on a height above. At Zem-
sem D. (2 m. E.), 800 yds: from the
buildings called Ak-lceupri , is a pre-
pared rock surface resembling a door,
known as Meker Kapusi, “Door of
Mitliridates,” on which is a much-
defaced cuneiform inscription contain-
ing the names of sovoral deities. Near
it, at Toprak Kaleh , excavations have
brought to light the foundations of a
temple, vases, statuettes, &o. In the
Varak D., or near its foot, are the
Varak Monastery, Yedi KUisse (8 m.
B.), whore are a few good MSS., four
ouneiform tablets, ana tombs of Ar-
menian kings ; Qarmi-vank, “ Red
Monastery” (5 m. E.), near Shu-
shanz, an old church and ouneiform
inscriptions ; Sikhkeh (5 m. E.),
church with cuneiform inscriptions;
and at Koehbans (8 m. E.), in the
monastery of Surp Krikor, are three
ouneiform inscriptions. West of the
town are Adramid and Akhtamar
(p. 237).
Sport . — Two kinds of moufflon, ibex,
chamois, boar, wolves, foxes, &c., are
found in the neighbourhood ; and the
royal partridge is often caught aliye
on the Shattak mountains.
Tho Lake or “Sea” of Van, alt.
5100 ft., is about 80 m. by 25 m.,
and covers an area about twioe as
large as the Lake of Geneya. It has
no visible outlet, and the level of
its waters is constantly fluctuating.
About fifty years ago the water rose
suddenly, submerging several villages,
and then fell; it is now said to be
gradually rising. The depth, nowhere
extraordinary, is greatest near the 8.
shoro; the Argisli arm, which was
possibly once a separate lake, is the
shallowest part. There are four
islands , which were at one time pro:
montories. Of these the largest iq
Akhtamar (p. 237), 2) m. from the S.
shore. The others are close to the E.
shore, and can be easily reached by
boats. Anahat , and the strikingly
picturesque rock, Odulz ( Oharpanak
or Lim ), have monasteries on them ;
the fourth is uninhabited. The ldko
is surrounded by mountains which,
in the case of the Nimrfld D. anq
Si pan D., rise from near the water’s
edge. The scenery is wild and pic-
turesque, and has more of a marino
than a lake character. The water is
too salt to drink, and a deposit of
alkaline salts, consisting chiefly of
carbonate of soda and chloride of
sodium, is obtained by evaporation,
and used in washing. A large spring
of fresh water rises in the lake near
the middle of the 8. shore. The
lake never freezes over, but in winter
severe storms make navigation dan-
gerous. The ouly known fish is tho
darekh , a kind of small herring, which
is taken in countless numbers at tho
mouths of the streams during the
spring freshets. At other periods of
the year tho darekh appears to keep
to the deeper waters of the lake.
There is a great variety of wild fowl,
cormorants, gulls, pelicans, flamin-
goes, heron, geeso, Ac. The ports are
Avanz (for Van), Argish, Adeljivos,
Akhlat, and Tad van, und ul>ouieig1ity
native boats ply on tho hike. Tho
Digitized by L^ooQle
BotUe 83. — Serai — Adeljtvas. 236
times from Van are Tad van (25 hrs.),
Adoljiva (15 hrs.), Argish (12 hrs.) ;
but travellers pressed for time should
not risk a passage, as they may be
delayed several days ; the traffic is
chiefly by night High rates are de-
manded. Lake Van is the ancient
Lake Arsene; called Thosvitis (Arme-
nian DospX through which, according
to Strabo, the Tigris flowed until it fell
into a chasm at the end of the lake,
whence it ran underground for a long
distance. The view of the anoient
geographers appears to have been that
the Jlende-mahi was tho Tigris, and
tlrnt it ran through tho Argish arm ,
Lake Arothusa, Arsene, or Arsisso,
to Lake Van , Thospitis. There it
disappeared in a katabothron, as so
many rivers do in W. Anatolia, to
reappear again as the Tigris, Bitlis
Chau The topographical features
might well have led to this belief.
On leaving Van the road runs B.
over the plain to Shah-bagh, and
thonce crosses tho hills to Archag
(6 hrs.) on the Archag Qeul (p. 280).
It then ascends tho valley of the
Mohmejik Su to Askara, and be-
yond Mulls Hassan (G lira.) crosses a
plateau, and runs through Asteju
(malarial fever common) and Mah-
mud-ullah to
Bend (5 hrs.), the chief town of the
Mahraudiyeh Kaza. It is aNestorian
village situated in a wide, well-
cultivated valley, and has a Custom
House, Quarantine Office , and small
barracks. From Berai it is 2 hrs. to
Sharab-khdneh, beyond which the road
crosses a ridge, and then desoends the
wild gorge of the Kotur Chai to the
Persian frontier village Raxi, Thenoe
it is 1 hr. to
Kotur (G hrs.), a block-looking
town, with a population of G200, and
a Persian Governor. [From Kotur it
is 26 hrs. to Urmia rid Jeranik,
Khanik (4 hrs.), a monastery (4 hrs.),
Nazarova, Salmas (8 hrs.), Ula, Serna,
G undervan (7 hrs.), and Urmia (8 hrs..
Rte. 111).] Beyond Kotur the road
keeps down the vnlloy through
Hahashia (Armn.), Makhin , and
Gurgut, to KaiaWc (8 hrs.), a small
village of Khurasanli Kurds; and
2 hrs. further entering the Balmas
plain, crosses it to
Khoi (5 hrs., Rte. 78).
ROUTE 83.
AQANZ— AKHLAT — BITLIS — VAN.
AdeUlvaa .
Aklilot .
# s
HRf».
. IB
# #
• <4
Tad van .
# #
. 7
Ibuh-khin
e •
. 34
Bltlta
• 34
Snrp (from Daah-khAn) .
. H
Voaian
• •
. IS
Van .
• •
s
This routo completes tho tour of
tho “ soa ” of Van, and posses through
grand picturesque scenery. After
leaving Aganz it lies for 1 hr. through
a rich cultivated district to Orvran
on the Erishat 8u (bridge), and Ak-
seraf (4 hrs.), a large Christian
village, with orchards, in a ravine.
Thenoe by an easy road near the lake
through Arinkar (4) hrs.). and at the
foot of the Sipan D. by Arun, Kojeri
(Armn.), and Ardia (Circassian) to
Adstiiras, or Eljivas f6) hrs.), the
scat of a kaimakam. It is a small
walled town on tho shore, with gar-
dens in whioh most of the peoplo
reside. On a steep rook, 400 ft. above
the lake, arc the ruins of a castle
which commanded the town. Withiu
the walls are 'an old mosque, now used
os a storehouse, and an anct. church.
Adeljivas, the old Armenian Ardzge,
was apparently the Byzantine fortress
Aljike, whioh was taken by Toghrul
Bey, the founder of the Heljftk dy-
nosty, towards tho middle of the 11th
Digitized by
Google
236
Route 83 . — Akhlat — Bash-Khdn.
eontury. In 1891 it suffered greatly Mongols and then to the Kurds, in
from an earthquake. whose hands it remained, really or
nominally under Turkish suzerainty,
Tho Ascent of the Sipan D., alt. cire. until it was at last incorporated in
12,000 ft., tho highest peak betwoon the vil&yet of Van.
Argocus and Ararat, can bo niado Tho modem toton consists of 8
from this place. The best way is to parts. On the shore is Akhlat Kaleti ,
ride to Northunjik , alt. 7000 ft., pass an old fortress with massive walls, in
the night there, and start for the which are two mosques, and a few
ascent about 3 a.m. next day. It is a houses. In the valley that here runs
rough climb, but nowhere difficult, to the lake, and on the heights above,
Tho summit is a “ largo and perfect is Kharab-thehr, “ the ruined city.**
crater with no break in its wall of In the steep sandstone cliffs are
circuit, about ] m. wide and 500 ft. numerous caves and artificial cham-
deep, the bottom of which was partly here similar to those in Cappadocia ;
occupied by a green pear-simped and above are tho ruins of a castle, on
lako.*’ The highest point is on tho old mosque, and several beautiful
E. side of the rim of the crater. Tho circular and octagonal Seljfik tombs,
view from the summit is extensive, with rich ornament, and inscriptions
and includes Ararat. The name in Kufio, like those at Konia and
sipan is a contraction of tu bhan-ullah, Kaisariveh. On the upper loVel are
“Praise be to God,** the expression, tiie Gardens , in which tne Kaimakam
according to native tradition, used by and most of the pcoplo live. An
Noah when tho ark touched tho excursion may bo mode hence to tho
mountain before resting on Ararat. great crater of tho Nimrfid D., about
About 1 hr. beyond Adeljivas the 15 m. distant,
spurs of tho Sipan D. rise abruptly
from the lako, and, for about 2 m., the From Akhlat tho road runs over
road is very rough; it then enters undulating ground past Agag and
cultivated ground and runs past Zigag (1.) to Qisvag (4| hrs., Arme-
several villages to nian) ; and thenoe, over spun of the
Nimrfid D., to Tadvan (21 hrs. Armo-
Akhlat (41 hrs.), a place of great nian), in the midst of fruit trees,
importance at an early period as an whence timber from the mountain is
Armenian town called Khelat. After shipped to Van. Thence S.W. over a
having been taken by the Arabs in level plateau and post a ruined
the 9th century it became tributary kli&n to
to the Byzantines, but passed again
from them until re-taken by Busil II. Bash-Kh&n (21 lira), a zaptieh
circ . 993. It then fell into Kurdish station, opposite Khukrev , on the
hands, and was besieged by a Byron- Mush-Bitlis rood (Kto. 87), whonoe
tine force commanded by a Frank it is 21 hrs. to Bitlis (p. 244). The
adventurer, Russel Baliol. In 1099 road now mounts a plateau, about
the Kurds were driven out, and a 450 ft. above the lake, called Hahva ,
Scljuk adventurer founded a dynasty which lies between the Nimrud D.
and took the title 8hoh Arman, and tho central mountains of Kurdi-
44 King of Armenia.** A flourishing stun, aud crosses it by Aleman (rt.) to
period followed, to which must be Ortab (2 hrs.) near the lake. Tho
attributed the tombs and other mouu- shore is now followed by Tukh, Elmali ,
moots In 1229 Akhlat was taken by Shamunis (whence there is a rough
Jclal-ed-din, the famous ruler of track up the Guzel Dere to Bitlis),
Kharesm, but after the sanguinary and Gharzit in a picturesque bay, to
battle of Nissi-chemen, near Erziu- Burp (6 hrs.) and
gan, it was for a short time in the
I tfjssossion of Ala-cd-din, the Sultan of Gueullu (2 hrs.), a good lialting-
(ftm. It afterwards passed to the pluvo iu a plain separated from the
Digitized by ^.ooQle
237
Route Qi-Pasha-
lake by d low rango of hills. After
crossing a high stoep ridge of mica
schist and passing Karens , and Hane*
vans (3 lira.), the road rang near
Pelo, and over another high ridge to
Angugh (1.), Surp ffagob church (1.),
TaJcmans (rt.), Khdn , an abandoned
Government konak, and
Pasha-yank (5 hre.). From this
place it is 2 m. to Haika-vank , whore is
a good farmstead in which the Catho-
licos of Akhtamar resides. Visitors
are most hospitably received, and,
weather permitting, can visit the
picturesque rocky islet, nnd its ancient
church, erected, circ. 028, by Gagig,
first king of tho Arzrunian dynasty.
The church is cruciform, and on its
massive walls are quaint bcts-reliefs of
scenes from the O. and N. Testament.
In the court of the ohnroh is a stone
with a cuneiform inscription of
Hennas. The Catholicate dates from
1113.
Vostan (2 hrs.), a prosperous village,
and headquarters of the Kavash Kaza,
was the capital of the Arzrunian kings
before they moved to Van. It has a
good 17th century mosouo. Near it is
the Monastery of Charfeapan with tho
tomb of 8. Jeghiche, one of tho trans-
lators of tho Armenian Bible ; and on
the mountains to the 8. are tho Monas-
teries of Narik and Ilu. From V ostan
a stony path may bo followed nlong
tho lako shore, or tho Khnshnb 8u
limy bo forded at Enghit , and tho hills
crossed to
Adramid (4 lire.). Near tho village,
on the rocks at the foot of which the
Bhemiram Rud runs, there arc 8
cuneiform inscriptions in a length of
about 2 m. A level road by the shore
leads to
Van (2 lire.), see p. 232.
tank — Bash-kata,
ROUTE 84.
VAN~BA8rt-KALA-bl*A-0frMlA.
nits.
Khoshab . . •
. . 0
Hash-kata • • .
. . **
Dina ....
tkilrga .
. . is*
. •*
Urmia
. . 13*
From Van tho road runs 8.B. over
tho plain past Kurubash (rt), nnd
tho Varak Monastery (rt.), and over
a col , 7100 ft., to Norohuk (4 lira.,
Armenian), in the wide valley of tho
Khoshab 8u. After ascending the
valley for 2$ hrs. the river is crossed
by a bridge. Here tho valley closes
in, and the 1. bank is followed to
Khoshab (5 hrs.), the chief town of
tho Mamuret ul-Hamid Kaza. There
is a picturesque ruined castle of tho
timo of the Armenian kings, which
was seized and held by rebel Kurds
during tho Inst half-century. Hero
the rood crosses to the rt. bank, nnd
1 lir. higher up it leaves tho river
and posses near Kasrik where tra-
vellers often stop the night. It then
crosses tho watershed between tho
Khoshab and the Zab by a high pass,
9100 ft., which is often blocked by
snow and, in winter, is sometimes
dangerous. The path is in places a
mere ledge in a steep slopo. Tho
rocky heights are much frequented by
ibex and wild shoep. The descent is
by a narrow valley to
Chukh (51 hrs., Armenian). After
descending the valley for 1 hr. to
Miramur , the track runs over the hills
by Khorasan to
Bash-kals (8| hrs.), alt 7180 ft,
tho chief town of tho Albak Kaza,
and an important military sfation.
It stands on the E. slope of the moun-
tains overlooking a wide valley, at the
further sido of which flows the Zab ;
Digitized by ^.ooQle
238
Route 84 . — Diza.
and above it ia a ruined fortress for-
merly occupied by a Kurd Bey. The
population consists of Kurds, Ar-
menians, Jews, and Persians.
[(i.) Bash-kala to Urmia (29 hrs.).
This route, by which a weekly caravan
comes from Persia in summer, is rough,
but passes through some very fine
scenery. The pain runs through Khor-
asan , and across the Zab to Bair (4 hrs.)
where are the ancient Armenian
Monastery and Church of S . Bartholo-
mew, erected on the traditional sito of
his martyrdom. Thu line old church
contains the tomb of the Apostle (his
body was taken to Rome) to which pil-
grims come from Russia, Persia, and
the surrounding districts. At Sorader \
(Armenian) on the rt. bank of the Zab,
about 2 hrs. N. of Deir, are an old church
and rock tombs ; and the whole district
is studded with ruined buildings that
attest its former prosperity. 8( hrs. from
Deir, after passing Khanasur (rt Kurd),
tho road crosses the open uplands on
the Turco-Persiau border, and in 8} hrs.
more enters the first Persian village
Xubik (7 hrs.). Thence there is a dim-
cult rood to Bahaas (3 hrs.). and. after-
wards, an easy one over tuo plain, by
Via and Sarna, to Guadanran (7 lira.)
and Urmia (8 lira. Rte. 111).
(ii.) Bash-kala to Julamerk (14
hrs.). There are two roods, one by
Manienan, Nebunar Yaila, ana tbe head
of the Kochannes valley ; the other
nearer tho Zab. Both are difficult, and
run through grand scenery.]
Jews, and Nestorians. There are
schools established by tho America ii
Mission at Urmia, and a resident
Chaldaean priest to represent the
Ghaldaeans in tho Kaza. On the edge
of tho plain are many Nestorian and
Kurd villages.
[(i.) Dixa to Neri (11 hrs.) and Mosul.
This route passes through Shemdinan,
a district of magnificent wooded moim-
tains, and foaming torrents, over which
in 1879, the famous Sheikh Obeid-ullah
ruled supreme. Tho paths aro very
difficult, aud the Kurds rather unruly.
There are a great many Nestorian vil-
lages. The best path is by Michlch ,
Serdatht , and Kiltsse , the seat of Mar
Khnaniahu the Nestorian Metropolitan
of Shemdinan, who is next in authority
to Mar Shimun, to Neri (11 hrs.), the
chief town of the Shemdinan Kaza.
Here are a konak and baz&r built by
Sheikh Obeid-ullah, who was eventually
exiled to Mecca and died there. From
Neri a difficult path, followed by Sir
A. H. Layard, leads through some of
the wildest and grandest parts of the
country to Itezun on tho Zab, and thence
by Bilti Kcupri (p. 210) to Vocal (p. 293).
(ii.) J)ita to kochannes (12 his.). A
rough difficult path by Kaprel ; Uurvata ,
at the foot of slopes rising up to the
great Jelu peaks ; tho Kurd villages,
A inshk, 1 lefais , Nerdivan ; and over a
ridge, 1G40 ft., to Bha-uto (Nestorian)
(8 hrs.). Thence, after crossing the Zab
by a ford, only passable in summer, to
Kochannes (4 hrs., p. 239).]
Beyond Bash-kala tho rood runs
nearly parallel to the Persian frontier.
In 2 hrs. Kilaqun is passed, and 1 m.
further the Zab is crossed by a bridge.
The way then lies past the Nestorian
villages Arji, Ate**, and Khusi (4 hrs.)
to Charderan ; and over rough hilly
couutry by the Kurd villages Khak -
haravokh , and Dit-deran to Muham-
mad Agha Keuprisiy and Kaprel
(8 hrs. Armenian), at the lower end
of tho Gamer plain.
Disa(l} hre.), alt. 5800 ft., the chief
town of the Gawer Kata, situated on
From Diza the road ascends N. in
2 lira, to Sheikh Amir (KurdX and in
2} hrs. more crosses the Ddasi pass,
7000 ft., between the waters of tho
Zab and those of Lake Urmia. Thence
it desoends for 2$ hrs. by tartan to
Bartan , in the Baradost valley, and
2} lira, further reaches the Turkish
ftxmtier post Baxirga (9 J lin.). About
2 m. from the post the frontier ia
crossed, and the road runs over the
plain by Gangaehin (2 hrs.), H a s sa n
(7 hrs.), aud Naslu to Urmia (4}
hrs., p. 819).
the N.E. side of the plain which is
evidently an old lake-bed. The popu-
lation consists of Kurds, Armenians,
Digitized by ^.ooQle
239
Route 86 . — Inioeh — Julamerk.
ROUTES 85.
VAN-JULAMERK-AMADIA-
M08UL.
ITBfl.
86knnl s . . . • . 11*
Kocbannes . . . .8.
Julamerk . ... . If
Limn ... . .13
A madia . .8
Splndarl . • . . .7
Sheikh Adi ... . . .7
Mosul ... .14
This route passes Kocbannes, the
seat of the Nestorian Patriarch, which
can also be reached by a road passing
through Khanjuruk, Mervanen (tbe
headquarters of the Niirduz Kaza
and an important Nestorian village),
and Kotranes. The best route, how-
ovor is that viA Sekunis, which, on
leaving Van, runs by KurtJxuh (rt.)
and over the hills to the valloy of the
Khosluvb, a fortilo district called
Havazor , in which is
Instosh (4 hra., Armenian). About
1} lire, beyond the village a ridge is
crossed to an affluent of the Bontan
So, on tho further side of which (1.)
is Agtye Xaleh (3} lire., Kurd).
8hortly afterwards the Norduz district
is ontered, and then the Dohtan Su ,
which runs in a deep ravine, is crossed
to
. Sekunis (4$ hrs., Nestorian). Not
far from this place, near the souroe of
ono of the tributaries of the Bohtan, is
the Armenian Monastery ITokotx-vank,
,; A11 Souls,” which is said to have
boen built on the site of an ancient
temple. In it is shown the tomb of
Tiridatex , who was converted and
baptised by 8. Gregory the Illuminator.
On leaving Sekunis there is a steady
ascent of more than 3 hrs. over upland
pastures to the head of the pass,
9800 ft, between tho waters of the
Bohtan and those of the Zab. The
path descends by the valley of Bervcur
(man y Nestorian villages), leaving
Khadalanex and Rotrane * to the L,
and then crosses another pass to tho
deep ravine in which lies
Koohannes (8 hrs.), alt 6970 ft
Tho little mountain village, which is
the ecclesiastical and polilicsal oentro
of the Nestorians, is aoout 8 m. from
the Zab, and stands amidst trees on
an alp at the foot of three imposing
peaks of bare rock. It is almost
surrounded by gorges and precipices,
and on the E. a rock rises like a wall
to a height of about 2000 ft It
consists of a church, built on tho
verge of a precipice, many tombs,
and scattered houses. Here is the
residence of Mar Shimun, the patriarch
of the Nestorians, and successor of
8. 8imon the Apostle of Assyria,
whose name he bears. Mar Shimun
exercises unquestioned authority over
the settled and nomad Nestorians,
whose oommou nsseverations are “ By
the head of Mar 8himun,” and “ By
the house of Mar 8himun.” In winter
all access is closod by snow. From
Kochannos a bridle-path crosses a
rough spur to
Julamerk (2| hrs.), the head*
quarters of the Hakkiari Saniok. It
is a small place in a lateral vnlley
running into that of the Zab, and
above it is an old castle. The place
is. so shut in by high mountains that
tho climate is very hot and bad in
summer. Near it are hot sulphur
springs. Tho Zab flows in a deep
valloy about 1 m. from the town, and
beyond it rises a chain of precipitous
rocky mountains in the recesses of
which lie the Nestorian districts of
Bax and Jdu. Below Julamerk tho
river flows through the Nestorian
district of Tiari Tbe Hakkiari
Baidak, formed in 1888, includes
most of the Kurdish district Over
which until a comparatively recent
date the Osmanli authority was not
completely established. In 1840 the
great Kurd Chief, Bedr Khfcn Bey,
was removed from the oountry, and it
was only in 1884 that the famous
6heikh Obeid-ullah was exiled.
Digitized by L^ooQle
240
Route 86 . — A madia — Sheikh Adi.
There ore two routes to Amadia,
both rough and difficult but passing
through flue scenery, (i.) The longer
route (21J hrs.) crosses to the 1. bank
of the Zab, and runs by Rabat (6 hrs.),
a Kurd village; Thornb (5 hrs.), a
large Ohaldaean village ; Jesti (Kurd),
Ben (Ohaldaean) ana ZtoAi, which is
1$ hrs. from the bridge over the Zab
(6 hrs.). After crossing to the rt.
bank tbe path runs by Dari and
Belli* to Amadia (4J lira.), (ii.) The
thorter route (20 hrs.) keeps to the rt.
bank of the Zab. It crosses several
ridges and runs through the country
occupied by the Tiari, an interesting
tribe of nomad Nestorians. The
principal places passed are Eehaya,
Leihun , Malota (6 hrs.), alt. 6200 ft. ;
Oalitha , Teretpino, Umra, Lisan (6
hrs.), near the Zab, on the L bank
of which is Jenan (Kurd), Qunduk ,
and Dari, the chief place of the Nesto-
rian district of Beravi.
Amadia (8 hrs.), alt. 4200 ft., the
scat of a kuimakam. The small
town stands llko an outpost of the
Hukkiuri mountains, on a remarkable
rock-terrace that can only be ascended
at a few points. It was formerly an
important stronghold of the Kurds,
but the walls of the town and of a
citadel are in ruins. The heat in
summer is very great, and partly from
the quantity of rice grown, the town
is feverish and unhealthy. The
pooplo are chiefly Kurds ond Jews.
There is good tport in the surrounding
mountains, some of which are covered
with magnificent oak forests; boar,
bear, panther, ibex, moufflon, &c , arc
found.
[.imadta to Rowandaz . This is a
difficult route through fine scenery. It
runs by Kwaneh (Nestorian) ; Tini
(6 hrs.), on the Zab ; Latka (8 hrs) ;
Pir-l-kalani (ruins of a bridge), Bila
Xeupri (9$ lira.), chief place of the Zibur
Kaza : Begil (6 hrs.) ; the Zab ferry,
and Kharakia hi.), to Bowandui
(8| hrs., p. 821). Thence to Urmia bv
Ilte. 112.]
From Amadia there is a rood to
Mosul by Daudieh , and Alkoeh , the
religious centre of the “New Chal-
deans ” who seceded from the Church
of Rome in 1869. But the usual
route crosses the valley of the Ghara,
and runs over a ridge, 5100 ft., to
Spindari (7 lira., Kurd) with many
vineyards. Thence over a range of
hills, and across the Ghazir 8u to
Sheikh Adi (7 hrs.), alt 2850 ft, a
oliarming spot, with beautiful trees,
where the founder of the Yezidi fuitli
is buried. The shrine seems origi-
nally to liavo been a Christian church
dedicated to Mar Addi, one of the
“ seventy disciples ” It is much visited
and the resident sheikh is greatly
esteemed. There is now a gradual
descent past many Yezidi villages to
Xhorsabad (9 hrs., p. 296). Thonoe
the road, after running over the plain
and through the mounds of Nineveh,
crosses the bridge of boats to
Mosul (5 hrs.), see p. 293.
ROUTE 8G.
VAN TO JEZIRE.
The most convenient route from
Van to Mesopotamia is that by Bitlis
and Sort to Jcziro (lltcs. 83, 87).
Thero is, howover, a direct road 16
Jozirc, and Bert may be reached
without passing through Bitlis.
[(i.) To Jezire direct . (45 hrs.)
Guide necessary. This route, a good one
for pack-animals, is much used in
summer. It runs through a little known
part of Kurdistan, a mountainous dis-
trict with high peaks, some capped with
perpetual snow, clear rushing streams,
mountain fastnesses, rugged ridges,
fertile valleys, pasture lands and oak
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 87. — Shattak—K'kmis, 241
forests. Boar And partridge are very
plentiful, and bear and ibex aro found
nearly everywhere. There are the
remains of numerous deserted villages,
many of them Christian ; and a few
isolated hamlets inhabited by Armenians
N. of the Bohtan, and by Ncstorians
and Chaldocans S. of that river.
The rood from Van crosses the Kho-
ehab (p. 287) by a bridge some;distance
above Enghil, and ascends to Heij
(M hr*.). It then runs past Kotis, Mus-
hova, Geurandash (6$ hrs.) and Sevdigin ,
to
Bhattak, Armenian Tank (5$ hrs.), the
seat of a kairaakam. Mohair shawls,
veils, Ac., are manufactured here. Not
far off is the fortress of Zel, noted in
the history of the Armenian kings.
The Bohtan Su in crossed before reach-
ing Xhumara (6$ hrs.), about 1 m. from
tho river. After crossing the ridge
between the Bohtan and the Khabur
rivers, this road runs through undulating
country partially covered with oak-
forest to
Bheraak (15 hrs.), a small well-built
town, and residence of tho chief of the
Ilartoshi Kurds. Thcnco there is a
Steady doscont to
Jarir* (10 hrs.), see Rte. 87.
(ii.) Van — Pelo — Khizan — Sert
(364 hrs.). This' route and (iii.) run
through a rough mountain district with
lofty summits and isolated valleys.
Here and there are forests of oak and
pine. Game abounds, and in some of
tho streams there is good trout-fishing.
They are summer routes, but the traces
of old roads, and the ruins of kh&ns and
bridges, show that they were once much
used.
The road follows Rte. 83 to Fda
18 hre.), alt. 6230 ft., whence it
csccnds a valley to Jfangasur and Baris
(44 hrs.), a large village on tho rt, bank
Qf the stream. It then runs, partly over
joug hground, to Kara Bu (4* hrs!), the
head-quarters of the Khizan Kasa, and
thence to Khizan (24 hrs.), a poor village
near which are said to be the ruins of an
old town, with inscriptions. Soon after
passing Kaden (6| hrs., Ncstorianb where
are mines now tinworked, the patn enters
the valley of the Bohtan Su, and
running near Kurnas (2 m. 1.), Ptdi (1.),
[Turkey.’]
Halanzor (rt.), and Kuleh a noted place
of pilgrimage (1.), descends to
8*it (6 hrs., p. 245), whence it is 27 hrs.
by Rte. 87 to Jerire.
. (iii.) Van — Mukns — Serf. (46 hrs.).
From Van by Rte. 88 to Vostan (6 hrs.),
and thence by the Monastery of Nartk
to Arpert (4^ hrs.) ; after which the
Yerervf D . is crossed by a very high
pass to Khoroa Kills— (54 hrs.), Monas -
tery of S. George , at the source of the
Mukus Su. Thence to Xukus (3 hrs.),
the seat of a kaimakam, near which are
old iron mines not now worked ; Bast
(5 hrs.), Baris (8 hrs.), and thence by
<ii.) to Best (194 hrs.).J
ROUTE 87.
ERZERUM-MU8H— BITLIB— 8ERT—
JEZIRE— MOSUL.
Khlufs Kaleh .
lias.
. 16*
Mush
. 16*
Ditlt*
. 16*
8ert . «
. IS
Funduk
• •
. #
. IS
Jerire
. 11
Zakho
. IS
Mosul
•
. 23*
The summer and winter routes fseo
Rte. 82 T) — one crossing the Falentoken
D., ana the other tno Dcvo lloyun
Pass— unite before orossing tho ridgo
that separates tho waters of (ho Cas-
pian from those of the Persian Gulf,
to Aghveran (12* hrs.). The road
then runs past KUitm (Armenian),
with an ancient cruciform chapel, and
a cemetery, in which are richly-carved
tombstones, to
, Prints, or Khanus Kaleh (S hrs.), a
largo village, and military station,
picturesquely situated in a ravine on
the E. side of the Bin-geul D. Above
R
Digitized by
Google
242
Route 87 . — Oharbukhur — Mush.
it are Uie ruins of a castle near which
are shown the spot whore Gain planted
trees, nnd fnigmonts of a wall built by
l4uncch. In the Rhinis valley is an
intermittent spring near a tilrbe much
visited by Moslom pilgrims. After
fording the Rhinis Chat at Arosh, the
road crosses a spur of the Bin-geul D.
to the Kizil Chai (ford), which here
separates the Erzer&m from the Bitlis
Vilkyot Beyond the river a steep
ridgo, 7715 ft., is orossed to the Cir-
cassian village.
Charbukhnr (8 hrs.), on a stream of
the same name, about 1 m. above its
junction with the Murad Su. [N.B. —
Travellers wishing to visit the Mo-
nastery of Surp Garabed (see below),
should leave the road at Arosh, and
sloop at Yckmal, proceeding next day,
via Avranz, to the monastery, which
is 7 hrs. from Musli.1 Descending
tho rt. bank of tlio Murad the rood
passes tho ruins of a castle (rt.), and,
entering tho great plniu of Mush,
readies Siluiva in 8 hrs. Tlionco it
is 2 hrs. across tlio plain to tho bridge
over tho Murad Su, once a handsome
stone one of twelve arches, and 2£
hrs. on to
Mush (7$ hrs.), alt. 4200 ft., the
chief town of tho Mush Sanjak, and
a military station. It is situated at
the mouth of a gorge in the moun-
tains, on the S. side of the plain, and
covers a steep mound and the sides of
the ravine. On the surrounding hills
are vineyards and oak-scrub. Mush
has the reputation of being the
filthiest town in Turkey, but it is a
thriving place, with a few good houses.
Tho castle, of whioh there are some
remains, is said to have been built by
Mushig, an Armenian king of the
province Daron, who founded the
town. A Khdn, with two stone lions
in bas-relief (Arab or Beljftk) deserves
notice. The bazar is poor, but good
embroidered caps can be obtained.
Mush is the seat of Gregorian and
R. 0. Armenian bishops, and there
is a flourishing Protestant community
with schools under the direction of
the American Mission. The climate
is healthy, but cold in winter, and
there is a heavy snow-fall.
The plain of Mush , 35 m. by 12 m.,
is very fertiio, and wheat and tobaooo
are largely grown. Vineyards are
numerous, and the wine has a certain
reputation. Wood is scaroo, and the
usual fuel is dried oowdung ( tezek ).
At certain seasons there are great
numbers of bustard. There are
several sulphur springs, and earth-
quakes are frequent and sometimes
severe. Tho Armenians of tho plaiu,
who are largely intermixed with
Rurds, are hard-working and vigorous,
with a reputation for courage. Some
of the women wear nose-rings. At
one of the villages, Khorni, near Ara-
kolcts Vank, Moses of Rhorone, the
historian, was born. It was on the
plain of Mush that Xenophon first
made acquaintance with Armenian
bouses, which havo little changed
sinco his day. In tlio mountains S.
of Mush, gold, copper, iron, and lead
are said to have been found; and
N.W. of the town good black marble.
f(i.) Mush — Surp Garabed — 7 > a/u —
Kharnut (66 hrs.). The road lies over
the plain, past numerous villages, to a
ford over the Murad Su (ferried in
spring bv a kelck raftb and thcnco
to Ziartt (5 hrs.), on the N. side of the
plain. From Ziarct it is 6 hrs. by tlio
direct road to lloghlan, but it is more
interesting to climb the steep path that
leads in 2 hrs. to the
Monastery of Burp Oarabod, “ S. John
the Baptist," generally known as Chan -
gcli Kilitse , the 44 church with bells,"
from the bells in its possession. The
monastery, which, as a place of Arme-
nian pilgrimage, ranks next to Echmi-
adzin, and Surp Garabed of Kaisariyeh
(d. 53), stands on a spur about 2000 ft.
above the plain. It was founded by
S. Gregory, the Illuminator, on the site
of a heathen place of worship belonging
to a colony of Hindus that bad been
established in Daron by Valarsaces about
b.o. 150. Above the monastery is a
fountain where S. Gregory is said to
have baptized 1000 heathen. The church,
which nas three towers, resembles in
stylo the churches at Am (p. 220). On
the facade are ornamental carvings in
interlaced patterns, closely resembling
Digitized by
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Route 87 .-—Boghlan — Palu . 243
what may bo found in Iretand. In the
interior are handsomely carved wooden
doors and poor frescoes. In the chapel,
at the end of the S. aisle, is a sarco-
phagus which is said to contain the body
of S. John the Baptist, translated from
Caesarea in the time of S. Gregory. In
the same chapel is a large AlS, of the
Gospels in Armenian, written on vellum
in gold letters, with numerous full-page
illuminations, which is said to have been
the work of a king Hethum. Beneath
the floor of the chnrch Sc m pad ohd other
Armenian princes are buried* The
chnrch is surrounded by four massive
walls to which are attached the dwellings
ft the monks, and the guest chambers
Tor the pilgrims who visit the place on
the Festival of the Assumption, August
24th. At the back of tbe church is
the fine tombstone of Bishop Mclkesidi-
kian, a.d. 1562. From the leaves of
the oak trees here, and in the glens
round the plain, manna is collected and
made into large cakes of a greenish hue
for export. From the monastery there
is a ride of 5 hrs., first along a terrace-
path (fine views) to the summit of a
ridge of mountains, and then down to
Boghlan (7 hrs.)* Thence the road
runs past Kharaba to Garbos (1$ hrs.),
after which there is a long stretch of
high uninhabited country to Banisor
(8 hrs.) in the Chabakchur plain. In
the same plain is Ohovlik (2 hrs.), the
head-quarters of the Chabakchur Kaka,
neat which are the rains of two ancient
towns where coins are said to have been
found. The road then continues bjr a
steep niggod track Over the mountains,
sometimes infested by Kurd robbers,
to Xalenda (4$ hrs.), Zoka, and Goiga
(5* hrs.), prhere the mountain country
ends. The road is now easy to Jlothmat
(Armenian) and
Palu, possibly the Khitarieum of
Procopius (6 hrs.). It is a large town,
seat of a kaimakam. on the rt.‘ bank of
the Murad Su (Euphrates), which flows
round it on three sides. The town is
built on tho sides of a peakod rock which
rises steeply to a height of 900 ft. above
the river. From the summit of tho
rock there is a fine view, and a little
way below it there arc walls of rou^h
construction forming a citadel. Within
these walls the companions of Jocelyn of
Courtnay wero probably confined in 1122
(p. 265) ; and hereon the N, side of the
rock is a tablet 12 ft. by 6 ft. with a cunei-
form inscription. Below tho tablet arc
three sets of rock-hewn chambers, appa-
rently the burial places of the princes of
Palu, which are reached by flights of
steps. One set much visited by pil-
grims is the traditional dwclling-pfaco
of S. Mezrop, the Armenian saint, who
invented the Armenian alphabet about
A.n. 406, and translated tno Scriptures
into that language. Hero the river is
crossed by a bridge to tho 1. bank, and
a good road followed to Burnus m>t«i
(8 hrs.), whence along the chaussee by
Rte. 98 to
Kharput (10 hrs., p. 93).
(ii.) Mush — Liz — Gop — A/elasgerd
(22$ hrs.). An easy route practicable
for arabas . It runs E. along the plain,
and fords the Kara Su before reaching
Tsrmsrd (6$ hrs.), where, in the church-
yard, is a stone with a cuneiform inscrip-
tion. Thence to Kalarast , and in 4$ hrs.
over a col, 6250 ft., to Ardgon and X*ia
(7$ hrs.) ( in the Dulanik plain. Tho
road then runs by Odunjlcr , Eunialu
near tho Murad Su, Gop (6 hrs., p. 231),
Mrj'ulln , and Verek to Molaogord (4 lira,
p. 281). Thence Bayezid can be reached
viA Zeidikan by Rtes. 82 and 79.
(iii.) Musk — Sasun— Sert (28$ hrs.).
This route runs through a wild motuw
tainous district with steep ascents and
descents. Villages are found wherever
k little level ground affords an oppor-
tunity for cultivation, but the condition
C ie people is peculiar. Tho Kurds of
valley are at feud with their neigh-
bours, and the Christians are almost in
a state of serfage to the Kurd Beys, who
are little submissive to Turkish autho-
rity 1 . The bridle-path leaves the road
to Bitlis 1 hr. from Mush, and passing
by Havaderik, and near German, reaches
the highest point on the road, 8620 ft.,
in 6 hrs. It then descends to Jsmalaa
(8 hrs.), alt. 4720 ft, and runs on bv
Sheikhan (Kurd), Gundcmo (Armenian),
Jrmuk, and Argamo to Haas (9 hrs.), alt.
8010 ft., tho head-quarters of the Bosun
Knza, where there are salt mines. Tho
road, now easier, continues by Ghiri ,
Zokh with the castle of a Kurd Bey, the
flourishing Armenian villose Bsrar (5$
hrs.), and a ford over the Bitlis Su, to
Bert (6 hrs., d. 245).
(iv.) Mush — Sasun — Diarbekr (81
hrs,). By (iii.) to Haas (17 hrs.), and
I hence rid Memfnrkin, the sent of a
R 2
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244
Route 87 .—-Kotni — Biths.
kaiinakam, by a fairly good road to
Diarbekr (14 hre., p. 205). j
On leaving Musk the road keeps to
the 8. side of tho plain, and runs past
JhujItekc-vaiJi, It as 1C. (a largo village
with sulphur springs), Arke-vank (5
lire.), and Mamik , to
Kotni (4 hre., Kurd). The Kara 8u t
the Tddboas of Xenophon, which is
forded several times between Mush
and Kotni, rises about J hr. above the
.'jitter place in a circular pool, 100 ft
diametor, apparently of volcanic origin.
Near it is t)ie fine liirbe of Kara-
Ixduni Agha, dated a.h. 687 (a.d.
1289). From the tiirbo there is a
gentle ascent of If lira, to Mokh , and
tho high ground, called Rahva (p. 236),
from which water Hows to tho Tigris,
tho Euphrates, and the Ioiko of Van.
Crossing the plateau to B&sh-Kh&n
(4 hrs., p. 230), tho road turns S. down
the rt. bank of tho Bitli * Su (E.
Tigris), and follows tho baro stony
valloy to
Bitlis, Armenian Paghesh (2$ hrs.),
alt. 4700 ft., tho capital of the Bitlis
Vil&yet, and a military station with
barracks and hospital. The infant
Tigris breaks into rapids and cata-
rncts in its passage through the town,
where it is joined by another mountain
torront; and the massivo stone-built
houses, with their courtyards and
gardens, climb up tho hill-sides, rising
ouo above tho other, with striking
effect. In the middle of the town,
between tho two streams, rises tho
flno old castle which, according to
local tradition, occupies tho site of a
fortross built by Alexander tho Groat.
In its walls are a few Arabic inscrip-
tions. and it is apparently an Arab
building. There are some line old
mosques and inodresses ; and tho
Armenians liavo a large monastery,
and a few churches. A branch of
tho American Mission, with schools
for boys and girls, oocupies a good
)K>sition with lino views of the town,
and of the lofty summits of the Kur-
distan mountains — the Niphates of
antiquity, on tho highest peak of
which Milton makes his Satan to
alight (Par. Lost, iii. 741). Tho
climate is healthy and the thermo-
meter never falls below zero, Fahr. ;
but there is a heavy snowfall, and tho
roods arc blocked. Tlioro aro chaly-
beate springs , one very liko Vichy
water, and stdphur springs , which are
much used. Tobaooo of an inferior
quality is largely grown, and manna
and gum tragacanth are collected.
The chief industry is the weaving of
a coarse red canvas cloth. Bitlis was
ruled by a semi-independent Kurd
Bey as late as 1836.
f(i.) Bitlis — Zokh — Diarbekr (-HJ
hrs.). This is part of tho shortest route
from Van to Skandenkn (p. 192). It
follows tho rt. bank of tho Bitlis Su to
Dukhan Keupri , and Ziaret (12 lira.), and
then crosses a rough mountain district
to Zokh (6$ hrs.), tho headquarters of
tho Kharzon Kaza, whore is a castle still
occupied by a Kurd Bey (p. 243). 8 hrs.
from Zokh, after (Missing several villages,
tho Yczid-kh&no Su is forded, and tho
route then lios through Xhaair (6 lint.),
Kollu, and Gurlashen , to tho Batman Su,
Which is crossed 1 m. before reaching
Binan (6 hrs.). Thence it runs by Solat
Dervish , Geogaver , BUxnil (6 hrs.) a largo
village on the Tigris, Sarti K. t and
Sadi , to Diarbekr (9 hrs., p. 265).
(ii.) There is also a bridle-path from
Bitlis to Mardin , via Zokh , in about 42
hre. It crosses tho Batman Su a little
above its junction with the Tigris, and
K sses that river by a ford about 1 hr.
foro reaching Alvzcre , wbero is a
tumulus.]
There are several routes from Bitlis
to Bert The eastern route, which, in
places, is hardly p&ssablo for pack
animals, runs through several villages,
and over tho difficult Tosil Pass. A
second posses through Zokh and
Berar (p. 243). Tho ustial road for
travellers and merchants, marked by
many ruinod khiins, runs through a
thinly populated district and is some-
times infested by robbers. In places
it is rough and bad. Tho path follows
the rt. bank of the Bitlis Su, and 1}
hrs. below Bitlis (Misses through a
tunnel. Deli/di Taslt , cut in tho de-
posit from a petrifying spring. 3 hrs,
Digitized by
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Bouie 81. — Seri — Ohelute . 246
letter down it crosses to the L bank by
a wooden bridgo, Dukhan Keupri, and
1 m. further passes beneath the Kurd
Tillage of 8hen. It then runs over a
cnl to the Ghzel Dere, and crosses a
ridge to
Bert (13 hrs.), alt. 2850 ft, the chief
town of the Sai\jak of Bert, and a
military station. It is a large place,
on a Well-tilled plateau between the
Bitlis and the Boh ten rivers, and its
white houses of adobe contrast prettily
with the green of the viries on the
hill-sides. There are some old
vwMUi'A, and a “ leaning” minaret
of brick and stone ; and a ca*tlc t
once the residence of a Kurd Bey.
The inhabitants are Moslems, Arme-
nians (Gregorian and ProtestantX
Chaldaenn8, and Jacobites ; and the
languages are Kurdish and Arabic.
Handsome pipe stems and walking-
sticks of ebony, ornamented with
silver, ore made. Bert, which occu-
pies an important position on the 8.
side of the Kurdistan mountains, has
been identified by some writers with
Tigranocerta , built by TigrnncS on the
river Nioephorius.
\(\.) Sert— Martin (36} hrs.). At
Badl , 4 hr*, from Sort, the Bitlis Su is
forded near its junction with the llolitati.
and a plateau, on which are several
villages, is crossed to &4d+tn (10} hrs.),
a large village, and seat of 'a kaimakam,
on the Yezid-khftnc Stt. It is a centre
of the Ycr.idis, and near it arc the mins
of the castle once occupied by the Yezidi
Emirs- There are also several Armenian
and JacobitC ( families, and a few Protes-
tants. Continuing by I)era-hum$o. the
Tigris is fordfed or crossed by a k elek
ferry opposite
Hassan-keif, Saphe (5 hrs.), on the rt.
bank, at the head of a gorge through
which the river tuns for many miles.
It was oiico the licndminrters of the
Yeaidis, hut is now a Christian village,
with two castles standing at the top of a
rock, that rises perpendicularly up from
the river. Below, on a level space, are
the ruins of a large town, and Itcnind
them the rock is honeycombed with
Wnbs. The people still live in rock-
hewn chambers, on both sides of the
water, tatween which flto the mins of a
Homan bridge, that once connected the
two banks. Water conduits, cut in tho
face of the solid rock, run past the
chambers. From Hossan-kcif the road
ascends a valley to Xefr Jose (5 hrs.) in
a small plain ; and thence runs over the
almost waterless limestone plateau of
the Jebd Tur. The plateau, which is
known as Tur Abdin , is intersected by
deep ravines, And forms part of the anct.
Mt. Mariut. It is an interesting district
inhabited by Turkish, Arabic^ Armenian,
Kurdish, and Syriac speaking people.
The road runs by Bhorisbak (4 hrs.),
Aprhe, Zeartty and Kassrta (7 hrs.). 2
hrs. further the edge of the plateau is
reached, and after descending to llithmil
the mail rises to MmtSIm (6 hrs., p. 292).
(ii.) A little thorter route (34 hrs.)
crosses the Tigris at Khoadok (9 hns.),
about 7 m. above the junction of the
Bohtan, and, passing through DcJXmoy
joins (i.) at Xsfr Joss (9 hrs.).
(iii.) Sert — Jledran — Diarbekr (34}
hrs.). By (i.) to Redvan (10} hrs.), and
thence, vila Swan (9 hrs., p. 244) and
Bismil (6 hrs.), to Diarbekr (9 hrs.).]
There are two roads onward from
Sert ; one, the longer , posses through
a rough mountainous country by D*h>
the chief place of tho Aro Kaza, Torik
and Shrmak. Tho tknrter and cosier
croesos the Bitlis 8u by a ford alxmt
1} hrs. from Bert, and follows the rt.
bank of the Bohtan Su, which ilows
between high precipitous walls of
rock for 2} hrs. to the ford over thot
river near Til. Tho ford, about 80
yds. wide, aiid 3 ft. deep, is apparently
that by which tho Ten Thousand
crossed the river Cent rite*. 2 lire,
beyond it 1 is Khana, and the road
thenoe follows the 1. bank of tho
Tigris, which hero forces its way
through a narrow picturesque gorge,
to Bataky Ghana Khan, and
Cheluk, or Jaluk (10 hrs.), a village
with houses on belli banks of tho
Tigris, whonoo there is a road to
Midiat and Mardin. Below Cheluk
tho road runs, for about 3 hrs., through
the gorgoof the Tigris amidst scenery
of great grandenr, and then crosses
tome spurs to Baraban ami Khotean ,
before ascending to Funduk (0 hrs.,
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246
Route 87 . — Finek — Zakho.
Kurd), alt. 3450 ft. This was appar-
ently the first halting-place of the
Greeks in the Corduehian mountains.
Henoo a rough descent of over 1000
ft loads to a small plateau which is
crossed to
Finek, PhentiM (0} lira.), the point
at which Xenophon was obliged to
leave the river and force the pass held
by the Oarduchi. Near this place tho
rocks are honeycombed with tombs,
and on the face of the cliffs are bas-
reliefs of the Parthian period, re-
sembling those discovered by L&yard
in the mountains of Susiana. About
2 m. oft* the road to Jezire are simi-
lar rock sculptures. From Finek,
where there is a ferry across the
Tigris, it is 2} hrs. to Mansuriyeh
(Clialdaean), and thence 2 hrs. to tho
bridge of boats which leads to
. Jezire ibn Omar, Besalxle (4} hrs.),
the soat of a kaimakain, on tho rt.
bank of tho river. Tho town lies
low, and is surroundocl by u inoat
which, when filled at flood-time,
forms an island — licnco tho nnmo.
Tho streets uro narrow and filthy, and
the town is feverish and unhealthy.
There arc extensive remains of tho
old mills, tho ruins of a bridge , some
line, mosques, and tho tiirbes of several
of tho Abbusido princes. Tho Domi-
nicans (French) have a dispensary
and schools in the town, and schools
in tho neighbouring villages for the
Glmldaeans and Jacobites. Good honey
is obtained from J. Kiave, where the
liees hive underground. On Jebel
Yudi , not for from the town, the Ark,
according to Kurd tradition, rested ;
and the summit, on which in the 4th
century there was a Monastery of tho
Ark, is much visited by Moslem pil-
grims. At Kharpoi , E. of Jezire,
arc extensive coal mines with deposits
of bitumen.
lktabde , from Beit Zabde, the homo
of tho Zabdcni, was a Roman fortress,
garrisoned in tlie reign of Constantins
by 8 legions. It was taken, a.d. 8(50,
by Sapor, who massacred many of the
inhabitants, and transplanted others
with their bishop to Persia. An un-
successful attempt to recover tho
fortress was afterwards made . by
Cons tan tius.
From Jezire the Tigris can be
descended by raft to Mosul, but there
is no fine scenery, and the voyage is
todions. Tho road, after returning to
tho 1. bunk, wlion the Khubur is ford-
able, crosses that river near its junction
with the Tigris, and runs by Feshapur
(Chaldaean) and Semil (Yezidi) to
Mosul. When the water is high, it
crosses several spurs and ravines, fords
the Nurdush, and runs by Kasr Delan
and Hubahi to the Christum villago
Nahravan (6$ hrs.). Thence, passing
several Christian villages, it runs on
to
Zakho (6J hrs.), alt 1400 ft, the
sent of a kaimnkam. The village is
built ou a low rocky island in tho
Kliabur river, which is connected
with tho 1. bank by a bridge, and with
tho rt bunk by a fonl. At tho )i.
end of tho island ore the ruins of a
castle, and tho tomb of Father Soldiui,
one of tho fouudora of tho Dominican
Mission.
Beyond Zakho tho range of hills
that runs out from tho Kurdish moun-
tains to the Tigris, and separatest h
plain S. of Jcziro from tho greuw
plain of Mesopotamia, is crossed by an
easy pass, 2700 ft, and tho rood then
runs post Asi to Tell Zeit (7 hrs.).
Thenco over the plain by several
large villages, of which the principal
are Semil (11 lira.), Gurapahan , Hata-
ra, Deiristun , and Filfil (9 lire.). From
this place the road, after skirting the
ruins af Nineveh, and crossing tho
Kbazr, passes the Tigris by a bridgo
])artly of masonry, and partly of lxxits,
to
Mosul (G hrs., p. 293).
Digitized by L^ooQle
247
Route 88. — Kara-$heikh — Shahverdian.
ROUTE 88.
ERZERUM TO DIARBEKR.
llRS.
K&ra-tbeikh .
. . 1
Bash-chiftlik .
. 10
Pskengoff . t
. 14
Shahverdian
. . 10
Heini . . .
- 9>
Dtarbckr (direct) .
. . 14
Diarbokr, viA Kgfl •
. . 30
This route, open for 7 months in
the year, is the shortest between
Erzerflm and Diarbekr, and, owing
to the abundance of excellent pastures,
is much used. It passes fow places
of interest, but, by diverging from it
at Heini, several ancient sites can bo
visited. In winter travellers have to
follow Rte. 89 through Erzingan.
Leaving Erzerflm by the gate under
tlio Koreinctlu fort, the road runs over
tho plain by Tuxja, and Tcpe K., and
then ascends a valley, Tokke Dere. to
the pass, 8500 ft, over the ridgo that
separates tho Erzerflm plain from
Terjan. Descending by Task Oghlu
(rt.) and Bash K. (1*X a swampy plain
is crossed to
Xara-sheikh (7 hrs.), alt. 7000 ft.
After passing Tuxla (salt works) there
is a steep ascent to the hoad of the
pass, called Sheitan Yokushu , 8900 ft.,
over the Khalkhal D., whence there is
a grand view of the Bin-geul D., an
extinct volcano covered with fine pas-
ture. After an equally steep descent
the rood enters a caflon in the basalt,
through which flows tho Hammam Su,
so-called from hot springs in tho
vicinity, and follows tho stream down
past Kara-hamsa (rt.) to
Bash-ChlftlikOOhrsA We now pass
near Chorik , and over the Boya Kara-
gedik pass to Kargha Baser, and the
Armenian village Ounig-kalsh (4 hrs.),
alt 0100 ft, the seat of a ka im aka m ,
whence there is a road up the valley
to Khinis Kaleh (p. 241). The ronto
now lies down the valley of the Ounig
Su , past Buran, to
Fakengop (10 hrs.). It then crosses
the Chabakchur plain, and, passing
E. of Ohevlik (p. 243), runs by MadraJt
to tire Kurd village Takvaran (5
hrs.) and Qharib (Arran.), on the 1.
bans of the Gunig 8u. A little
further the Murad Su (E. Euphrates),
which, up stream runs in a deep
harrow bed between wooded moun-
tains, and down stream flows to Pain
(p. 248) through a precipitous gorge,
is crossed by a fortl, or a ktlck ferry,
to Data Yent. beyond which is the
villuge of Timflr Agha (1) hrs.). The
road now runs over a ridge, 4100 ft., to
the valley of the ZU-hamein, in which
is Garib (Kurd), and crosses by a
rough stony pass, 4800 ft, the ridge
that separates the waters of the
Euphrates from those of the Tigris.
Beyond the pass lies
Shahverdian (341 hrs.), whence
there is a road, via Lija feoat of a
kaimakam) and Pis, to Dinrlwkr. Wo
now cross a rough hilly district to
TutUi, and a little further pass a
natural tuunel, 2 m. long, and 80 ft
high, through which the Dibene Su
flows. At the 8.W. end of the tunnel,
near Korkhar , there is tho figure of
an Assyrian kirig, with cuneiform
inscription, on the foco of tho rock
(rt. bank); and inside the tunnel is
another figure with an illegible in-
scription. The figures are those of
Tiglath Pileser, n.0. 1110, and Ashur-
izir-pal, d.o. 880. A few yards beyond
this is a natural arch, and high up in
the cliff above it are the remains of a
bridge. On the bill above tho tunnel
arc the ruins of a castle, with a rock-
hewn flight of steps and passage
loading down to tho subtormnoan
river. The sources of this interesting
head-water of the Tigris are about
8 m. above tho tunnel near an
immense stalactitic cavern with many
passages, one of which was followed
tor an hour by the late Mr. Taylor
Digitized by L^ooQle
248
Route 88 . — Heini — Egil.
when Consul for Kurdistan. Tho
place is called Bakirein. From the
tunnel there is a steep ascent to Sherli ,
and some bare stony hills are then
crossed to
Heini (9} hrs.), alt. S000 ft, a
pretty little place on tho slope of a
hill which is crowned by the ruins of a
castle. The people are half Armenians
and half Zaza Kurds. In the town,
which is surrounded by gardens and
pasture lands, are some Moslom build-
ings (inscriptions) and a large spring,
which is tlie source of the Ambar Su.
The limestone rocks in the vicinity
are very fossiliferous (fisli, mollusca,
&c.).
[The district S.E. of Heini. as far as
the Batman Su, contains several ancient
sites. At Kuithk-i-hak (8 hrs. vid
Fciter and Urch), on tho hills which
separate the plain of Lija from that of
Diarbekr, are vaulted chambers, the ruins
of a temple, and fragments of columns.
In the plain beyond, near Fit, ara tho
ruins of /‘hit on. On the Lija plain, tho
ruins of AUakh , anct. Atlucha. F urtlicr
S.K.. the ruins of the town and convent
of Taojil, the capital of Tcrjan. Still
further E. at Boshat are the ruinB
of a very ancient fort. At the base of
the rock on which it stood, above the
entrance to a rock-chamber, is a spirited
representation, in high relief, of a Par-
thian warrior on horseback, and of r
figure in a supplicating attitude. Fro
this point either Redvan or Sert (Rte
87) may be reached by descending th.
Kulp Su, and crossing to Arzcn (ruins). 1
The direct road from Heini runs
by Ak-viran (5‘hrs.) and Basar to
Kadi K. (G hrs.), whence, uftcr ford-
ing the Tigris lwlow the town, or
crossing by tho old bridge, it enters
Diarbekr (3 hrs.) by the Blardin Gate.
The moro interesting route runs
through the fertile valley of PdushlM ,
to the N. of which lies the district of
Nerib , mentioned in cuneiform in-
scriptions, and now inhabited by Zaza-
speaking Kurds.
Dibens (5 hrs.), a large Armenian
village, near which is a roc/i-hewn
church , “ venerated,” according to
Mr. Taylor, “by all Armenians os
the earliest temple of their faith.”
Near it Are several other rock-hewn
chambers. At tho junction of tho
Dibeno Su with tho W. Tigris are tho
ruins of Ammaneh Kaleh (3 hrs.), an
almost impregnablo fortress. It can
be approached with difficulty by a
single path on one side, the other
sides being precipitous cliffs over-
hanging the rivers. The eztensivo
area on tho summit is covered with
ruins, and reservoirs, of black basalt.
On tho N.E. side a covered stair, 280
ft. high and 8 ft wide, leads down to
the Dibeno Su.
Egil, Syrian AngU (4 hrs), on a
rocky mountain on tho rt. bunk of tho
Tigris, is the anct. Ingila, chief town
of Ingxlene , Armn. An/ceah. It was
also called Anchialus, and was plun-
dered, a d. 503, by the Persian sing,
Kobad. There are the ruins of a
oastle with a double wall, and a rock-
hown passage to tho Tigris. Imme-
diately W. of the castle is tho almost
obliterated figure of an Assyrian king
with an illegible cuneiform inscription.
Below the castle are four rock-hewn
tombs of pyramidal form, and in the
vicinity are many other rock-chamlicrs:
31 hrs. from Egil up the rt liauk of
the Tigris are the ruins of Jubiir
Kaleh.
From Egil the rt. bank of tho Tigris
M followed by Sherbet and Shilbe to
Diarbekr (8 hrs.). See Rte. 93.
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 89. — Mamakhatun — Erzingan. 249
ROUTE 89.
ERZERUM— ERZINdAN- EQIN~KHAR*
PUT— DIARBEKR.
Mamakbatnn .
. . . IT
Kndngan .
. 18*
Keoiakb .
. . 12
Kglu .
. . 19*
Arabkir .
. . . 10
Keban Maden
. . 9|
Ktuirpnt .
. . .10
Diarbekr .
. . . 31
From ErzerQm there is a choice of
two roods to Erzingan — a bridle-path
(89 hre.) passing through somo fine
sccnory, and an araba-road (35J lirs.)
over the bare hills.
(i.) The bridle-path, 8 hrs. after
leaving Erzorftm, onters the Haidar
Jloghat, and, after crossing tho llaidnr
Su (trout) and passing Osbeg (8| hrs.)
and Tamra, reaches the head of tho
pass, 7075 ft, by a good rood made
during the war of 1876-7. It then
descends to Yarmak (5 hrs.) and
enters a district remarkable for its
ealt spring s, of which 12 are worked.
Tho largest spring is at Muklus
Kalch, 1$ hrs. on tho road to Par -
maksis and Hultnk (4 hrs.), situated
in a fine gorge. In a lateral valley
near Hulenk ore hot springs which
throw up curious crystals of carbonate
of lime. The path now runs down to
tho Parmaksiz Su, and passing
through Qettbekviran descends to the
Ttizla Chai, which it crossed by a
deep ford. It then runs through
Karntkes (salt pans), Guvrenji (old
Armenian church), and other villages
to Xomsor (7J hrs.). Here tho Tuzla
Chai is forded and its L bank followed
for 1 hr., when the path crosses a
shoulder of the Magraba D . to Chak -
nits , and runs over hilly ground to
Abrenk and Herani (6} hrs.). One
hr. from Herani the KaraSu is forded
opposite Wijan, and tho path then
leads through Kachak to Jibija
E h A n (3] hrs.) on tho araba-road.
(ii.) The araba-road.
This important route, which is
rarely closed by snow In wintor,
follows Bto. 67 to llija and a ruined
khin (8 hrs.), where it leaves tho
road to Trebizond. It then runs over
tho bare hills past Yeni K . and Her-
jutlu, and crosses a ridge whence there
is a fine view of the uplands of Torjan,
including the curious rook-cappod
hill 8.W. of Mamakhatun, ana, in
the far distance, the groat deft in tho
Koelijan D., through which the
Euphrates breaks into the plain of
Erzingan.
Mamakhatun (9 hre., Kurd), alt
4440 ft, the chief town of the Teijan
Kaza, and Derezene , on the rt. bank
of the Tuzla Chai. In the . cemetery
is a handsome tomb , standing in a
circular court which is supposed to
be that of the daughter of a Sultan.
Some of the dccorativo details aro
interesting. The tomb is now a plnco
of pilgrinmgo (Xiaret\ and is much
frequented by dervishes who livo in
a deep hole in the central building,
where they are said to fast Leaving
Mamakhatun the course of the Tuzla
Chai is followed, and in 2} hrs. the
Kara Su, Euphrates, is crossed by
the Kotur Keupri , a stone bridge of
8 arches, and 150 yds. long. Aftor
keeping to tho rt. bank for a short
time tiio road ascends and, passing
Httssein Key Khan, runs over tho
Jibija D. to
Jibtya Skin (8} hrsA It then
crosses some spurs ana ravines —
passing a few villages,. and in 8 lira,
a khan on the Kara 8u — and enters
the plain of Erzingan which, though
marshy in plaoes, w fairly cultivated
and populous. The plain is about
20 m. by 8 m., and the road runs over
it through Kara-kilisse, Aiikend,
and other villages, before reaching
Erzingan, or Erziryan (10 hre.),
alt 8900 ft., near its western ex-
tremity. Erzingan is tho chief town
Digitized by ^.ooQle
250
Route 89 .-
of a Sanjak and an important military
station ; it is situated on the rt. bank
of tho Kara Su, about 1 m. from the
rivor, and is almost surrounded by
gardens. The houses are chiefly of
sun-dried brick, and in many cases
have gardens enclosed by mud walls.
There are large barracks , fine new
government buildings, a military
hospital, a large modern mosque, and
a good hatdr. The town has latterly
been greatly modernised, but ihekhans
are still poor. Tho principal industries
are tho manufacture of silk and cotton
stuffs, towels, canvas, clothes for the
troops, and copper utensils. At IPas-
aird, 1) hrs. N., are the government
Icatlior and cloth factories. The
dimate is hot iu summer, and mode-
rate in winter. The Armenians have
schools for boys and girls in the town,
and a seminary for the preparation of
teachers for the village schools at the
Monastery of 8. Nerses Khairabad.
In the church of this monastery is the
tomb of 8. Norses.
Excepting a fow fragments of early
Christian churches, capitals, Ouflo
inscriptions, &c., built into the walls
of tho old fort, there are no ancient
remains. But Brzingan was an im-
portant ploco early in the 4th century,
when 8. Gregory the Illuminator
lived there, and it probably occupied
a still earlier site. In 1784 it was
almost destroyed by an eartliquako,
in which the Governor-General and
several hundred persons perished.
The plain is traversed by the Kara
Su, which runs for a peat part of the
way in two channels, both bridged op-
posite the town, and escapes through
a narrow valley to the W. between the
Denim mountains and the Kora D.
On tho 8. side of the plain the
Denim mountains rise abruptly ; and
on the N. are the Ak D. and Khashish
D., the lower slopes of which are
thickly dotted with villages nestling
in a forest of fruit trees and Sysiphus
Rubra, which flowen in July and
August. Wheat, fruit, and cotton
are largely grown. Tho melons are
noted for their fine flavour. The
young vine leaves are collected and
- Erzingan .
preserved in salt and water for winter
use in the preparation of dolmas.
Butter and honey are plentiful.
There are iron and hot sulphur
springs, and a “ seltzer ” water spring.
The brittle in which tho Mongols
defeated the Sultan of Kfim (1243)
was fought on the plain.
In the vicinity are several Armenian
monasteries. 8. Nerses Khairabad;
Ketterij Yank ; 8. Kirogoe near
Brastik ; and Burp Krikor Linarovich,
8. Gregory the Illuminator (relics of
8. Gregory and 8. Nicholas, and a
piece of the Ark), 11m. S.W. of tho
town, near Mugsi on tho Meijan Su
(good trout fishing late in tho season).
Beyond the Merjan, near Kismikor,
are two large tumuli; and near the
head of the valley of the Kom 8u,
dose to Gavrenjor, is a remarkable
44 dripping *’ well, the water of which
petrifies everything it falls upon.
[Travellers who wish to visit the little
known country of tho D«rsim Kurds
can follow one of two routes to Kharput.
1 i.) By Jerfellu, 41100 ft. ; over the Mer-
an pass, 10,800 ft. ; Opik (84 lire.) ;
El-Kaya (9 lire.) ; Khozat (6| hra.),
6500 ft., the chief town of the Dcreim
Sanjak ; Pertck (74 hrs.), mins of Arme-
nian fortress ( pertck in Kurd) ; ferry ovor
the Euphrates ; Kharput (4$ hrs.). (ii.)
Kara-tcuz (4| hrs.) ; Fuluinor (6 lire.),
the chief place of the Kozlichan Kara,
and of the Kurds of Hussein Bey, whence
an ancient (Roman ?) rood ran down the
Dhor Boghoz to Mozgerd; Herdif (9
hra. Armn.) ; Kizil-kilisse (6J hrs.), scat
of a kaimakam : Palk (5 hrs.), seat of
a kaimakam ; Mazgerd, Armenian Ma-
nazgerd (44 hrs.), seat of a kaimakam,
ruins of Ancient town, citadel, and of an
altar (fire ?) like structure in terrakes on
the hill above the town, still reverenced
by Kizilbash Kurds ; Bali-shehr ;
Pasha-vank (8 hrs., Armn.) : Merjtnnck
(Armn.) ; Pertek (4 hrs.) ; Kharput (44
hra.). lioth routes cross a very rugged
couutry, with steep ascents and descents,
and fow supplies can bo obtained ; hut
the Kizilbasn Kurds and the .\nnenians
who live among them are on interesting
study.]
From Erzingan we can either travel
Digitized by
Google
251
Route 89 . — Kemakh — Egin.
by tho chauude to Ekrek and thence
by a bridle-path, via Ardos, Avak-
vank, and Garni (Armenian), or follow
tho old caravan route, nearer the
Euphrates, by Brantik (Kizilbash%
Millu Khftn, and Jlash-oghln (rt.>—
to the KUmer Su, u coal river,” which
is forded close to its junction with
the Kara So. Crossing the latter
Hvcr, which runs in a deep chasm, by
a good wooden bridge of a single span,
wo ascend a rocky slope, and then
descend by a wide stone staircase to
Kemakh, Camacha-Theodonopoli$(?\
Armn. Gumukh , Am (12 hrs.), tho
seat of a kaimakam. It is pictur-
esquely situated on tho L bank of
tho Kara Su, in Acilisene, Armn. Ege-
gheats, Tho old town was built on
an isolated rock 300 ft. high, partially
surrounded by the Euphrates and
the Tanajur Su. Tho latter runs in
a docp narrow valley which Timftr
filled up with stones and trees when
ho took tho plaoo in 1899. The rock,
though almost inaccessible, was
strengthened by filling up weak
places, and fortifying tbo exposed
parts. Tho summit is rt*achod by a
rock-hown road which passes through
throe massive gnteways, one appa-
rently Byzantine, the others Inter. On
oiio of tho latter is an inscription re-
cording tho capturo of the town by
Selim I. Tho ruins near the N.W.
corner, and a mosque, are of tho timo
of Sultan Soli in ; those between tho
outer and inner wnlls, and a largo
tomb nt tho E. end, are probably
earlier.
The modem town lies chiefly on tho
banks of the Tanajur to tho S.W. of tho
old fortress. There is a good kahveh
but no khdn. The houses are well
built, and are surrounded bv gardens
and fruit trees. The konaks of tho
Bore Beys, who are descended from
tho old fiimily of Saghir-zadc, and
whoso ancestors until roccntly enjoyed
feudal rights, aro prominent objects.
The owners are most hospitable.
The mineral itealth pr the district,
is prbbably considerable. In the
Kara D. (3 hrs.) is an uuworked coal
mine; and salt is obundnnt in tho
Kum or Dere. An ascent of tho
Marik D. (marble, limestone, fossils,
and coloured sands) should be mado
from Marik (1J hrs.} up the valley of
the Kilmer 8u. Wock cut in tho
mountains is fioatod down the rivers
for tho use of Egin and Keban
Moden.
Beyond Kemakh the L bank of tho
Kara 8u is followed for about 4 hrs.,
when the river is left, and some
heights, about 1500 ft. above the
river, ore crossed to Arshin (7 hrs.,
Kurd). Here the river, running in a
confined valley, is rejoined, but it soon
enters an impassable chasm with wnlls
of rock 1000 ft high on either side.
From Avshin there are two paths.
One follows generally the 8. side of
the canon, ana crosses a hilly country
to Vingan (Armn., p. 255% where
there is a bridge over the river, and
whence there is a track on each bank
(both difficult) to Egin. The mom
frequented path loaves the Kara Su
valley about 1 m. below Avshin, ami
runs over steep stony hills and through
narrow ravines to a Khls (GJ hrs ).
Thence it crosses the Khosti Jlcl to
somo open cultivated ground, and
finally reaches, by a steep stony de-
scent of 1000 ft, tho wooden bridgo
over the Kara 8u at
Egin, Armn. Agn, u spring” (6 lirs.%
on the rt. bank of the river; alt 3800 ft
It is a picturesque town, hung in a
theatre of rocks so steep and high that
there is very short sunlight in the
day. An abundant spring, whence
the name, rises at the top of the town,
and supports much vegetation, from
which the air takes a heavy, moist
character. The streets are mere rock-
ladders. The stone houses standing
in the terraced gardens, and orchards,
are amongst the best in Anatolia. The
bazar is good, bnt them is little out-
side trade. Cotton cloth (manurn) is
manufactured. There is no decent
khdn, and private lodging must bo
sought. Tne goitre is a common
disease in the district Of tho 10,000
inhabitants, half are Armenians, in
whoso largest church is preserved an
11th oenty. MS. of the Gospel*, said to
Digitized by L^ooQle
252
Route 00 . — Arabkir — Siva8.
be written by ft king of Sasun Tor his
daughter. There aro also some good
Persian tiles. The spring-bead and
mosque near it ore worth Beeing.
Many of the young mon seek work in
Constantinople, Smyrna, and other
towns; they have a high reputation
as bankers and money-changers, and
aro also found as cooks, iMikjis , and
hammals , at Stambftl. When they
have saved enough money they return,
build a house, and settle down. Egin
was one of the places in which the
Armenians who emigrated from Vas-
buragan, with Senekherim, in the 11th
centy., settled.
[(i. ) Egin — Ch imushgczek — K ha rout
(3» hrs.). This is a hilly route, but
passes through some good scenery, and
a part of the Denim country. The path
runs through Ashikta (6 hrs.) : Ankhitc
(8 hrs.) : ferry over the Kara Sii
( 1 hr.) ; Sinjuk (Arum.) ; ltiznek ; Chi-
lnuskgezek (41 hrs.), seat of a kainm-
kain ; Arevunik (6$ hrs.) ; Sulpeion (21
hrs.) ; Pertck (6} hrs.) ; Kharput (4}
lirs.).
(it.) Egin — Divrik (12 hrs.). A sum-
mer route over the Sarichichck D.]
her net aro made into .a paste, ealled
peitUc , for exportation, and into rdki
for home use. The people, like those
of Egin, seek their fortunes in the
western towns. Arabkir is a modern
town ; tho ruins of tho old town, given
to Senekherim by Basil II., aro at
Etki-thehr , 2 m. N.E. Hero there aro
the remains of a castle on a high rocky
and some old Seljftk mosques. ,
[Arabkir— Divrik (14 hrs.). The
road runs over the Sarichichek D., on
the crest of which are remains of an old
paved road (Homan ?).]
From Arabkir the road runs over
undulating country by Kiirihu to
Ssraijik (6$ hrs.), on tho Sivaa-Klmr-
} >ut road, whence Rte. 93 may bo fol-
owed to Keban-m&den (3} hrs.),
Kharput (10 lira.), and
Diarbekr (31 hrs.).
Leaving Egin the bridge over the
Kara Su is passed (1.); and the rt.
bank followed through magnificent
scenery. The chauudc, from insufficient
repair, is not now practicable for
wheels. After 1} hrs. the last gardens
are left, and after 3 hrs. moro tho
road, carried by zigzags up tho clifT,
leaves the gorge and runs down a
valley due 8. to Ashikta (5 hrs., Turk ),
alt. 4050 ft. This last stretch of road
is paved. Large villages, Turk and
Armenian, are seen on both sides.
At tho bottom of tho valloy tho Miran
Cluii is crossed, and the road then
runs by Kara-bunar , and Shrfik, and
across the Sarichichek Su to
Arabkir, Armn. Arapgtr (5 hrs.),
a thriving place, ubout tho sumo size
os Egin. on an elevated plateau. It
is noted for its gardens, its fruit,
and the industry of its people, of
whom about one-third aro Armenian.
Manuia is largely manufactured from
English yarn*. Silk is grown. 3ftd-
ROUTE 90.
6IVA8 TO ERZERUM.
There are three important routes
from Sivas to Erzer&m.
(i.) Sivas — Kara-hissar — Sadagh —
Erzorum (84} hrs.). From Siyos by
Rte. 18 to Shabin Kara-hissar (33
hrs.). Iieaving this place we pass by
Tanqra, and cross tho Koat Su by a
wooden bridge. Here the road should
bo left to visit tho
Monastery of Miramana, “ Mother
Mary 11 (1} hrs.), situated, like that of
Sumela (p. 206), in a cavern half-wny
up the face of a precipitous rock, and
Approached by a zigzag path. Tho
monastery is Byzantine, and though
Digitized by ^ooole
Route 90 . — Zil— Gurgeni*. 253
it contains litilo of interest it should
bo visited for tho magnificent viow
from tho terraco in front of the church.
Beyond the Monastery we cross some
rough hilly ground, and rejoin the
mod in tho fertile find thickly popu-
lated plain, Alashar Ova, after passing
remains of an old paved road. Thence
over a spur to
Zil (4 lire.), and up the valley of tho
Chagtcen , or Kara Su (trout), to Chal-
gan (2{ lire.). We now cross a finely
wooded pass (Scotch fir, pine, beech,
and oak) over a spur of the Giaour D.
to Geursaf (3f hra.), in tho Shoiran
Kaza, whence there is a rough moun-
fain path to Giimush-kb&neh (P- 203).
Tho rood continues through a pleasant
district, watered by tributaries of tho
Lycus, and past a few villages to
Teirsum (6$ lire.). In tho Tcireum D..
an offshoot of the Giaour D., behind
the village is a rich unworkod lead
mine , and on one of the lower peaks
are tho ruins of a monastery (frescoes).
After traversing somo cultivated up-
lands wo descend tho stoop sides of
tho Deve Yurnn , “ camel tiring ” hill,
and, passing Kom (1.), cross tho Kelkit
Su by a bridgo to
Kelkit Chiftlik (4J hre.), tho chief
place of tho Kelkit Kaza. It is situ-
ated in a fine plain, almost destitute
of trees, and was formerly a stud farm
( chiftHk ) for the use of tho Turkish
cavalry. In tho names of the Kaza
and the river are preserved the Arme-
nian Kail Ket , “ wolf river,” of which
Lycus is a translation From this
place there are two routes to ErzerOm ;
one (29 hre.) crosses the Elmoli D.,
through fine scenery to Kara-htdak
(Armn., 7| hre.), end thence runs
through a wild, wooded, mountain
district to tho valley of the Kara 8n,
and Ash-kaleh (10J hre.), whonce
Bto.67 is followed to ErterAm(\ 1 hre.).
The other (39 hre.) ascends the
valley of the Lvcus to Sadagh, Satala
(14 hre., p. 208), whence, after follow-
ing Rte. 70 for 1$ lira, to Bandolar ,
too pass through GeuidHxtir aud cross
tho watershed, 7000 ft. (fine view of
the mountains to tho S.), betwoeu tho
Lycus and the Euphrates, to
Bash K. (6} hre., Kizilhash Kurd).
In the cemetery are interesting tombs
of s&ndstono, built like English vaults,
ou the Bides of which are rudely-
carved swords, spears, shields, guns,
Ac. Above and at the end of each
vault is a stone slab. Descending
through a wild, picturesque gorge we
reach
Pulk (3) hre., Armn.). At the W.
end of the village is a pool with
sacrod trout. In the Malput />., } hr.
N., is an oil spring , muen venerated
by tho inhabitants, who visit it an-
nually for prayer, and to obtain the
oil, which is said to bo efficacious for
rheumatism. Near it are two salt
wells and a sulphur spring. Descend-
ing the valley of tho Pulk Su, and
fording tho Kara Su, 3 lire, from Pulk,
we reach
Pekarich (3} hre., Armn.), at tho
foot of a rocky einincnco on which nro
ruins supposed to bo those of a temple,
with a subterranean rock-hown stair
leading to a spring. Thence to Ma-
makhatun (4 hre.), and by Rte. 89 to
, Srserftm (17 hre.).
(ii.) Sivas — Enderes — Ertingan —
Erter&m (92J lire.). From Sivas by
Rte. 18 to Enderes (25 hre.). Tho road
continues to follow that to Karn-hissar
for 3 hre., but instead of croc-sing tho
Enderes Su it ascends tho valley to
Orta K. (5 hre.). Hero tho volley
narrows, and, after crossing a low hifl
to Agvanu, in the valley of tho Shns -
hara Su, we follow the stream up to
Chobanlu Tekke (5 hre.). Thence the
way lies over open country to
G urgent* (6 hre.), tho hmdnunrtcre
of tho G urgent* or Rifahieh Kaza, a
miserable place of wood houses in a
well-cultivated plain. The summer
road now follows the valley of tho
Gurgcnis Suto Ekreh,a nd then crosses
an easy pass, tho Chanlnldu Brl,
7900 ft, over tho range that separates
Digitized by L^ooQle
254
Route 01.
tho waters of tho Black Boa from
those of tho Persian Gulf. It was,
apparently, on this rango that Ala-cd-
din, tho Button of Kftm, defeated
Jelul-ed-din of Khorezm. Tho de-
scent is by tho yolloy of tho Chorduklu
Bu to Palanka (12 hrs.), whoro tho
volloy opens out into tho plain of
Eniiigan (4 hrs., p. 249). Thcnco
by Hte. 89 to Erserfun (35} hrs.).
N.B. — In winter tho Cliordaklu Bel
is often blocked by snow, and it is
thon nocessary to travelfromGurgenis,
via Khacher (2 hrs.), Kogari (4} hrs.),
uml Kemakh (3J hrs., p. 251).
(iii.) Siva* — Zara — Erzingan — Er-
zerum (87 hrs.). From Sivas by Rtc. 18
to Zara (12 lire.), on the rt. bonk of tho
Kizil Irinak. About 1 hr. higher up
tho valley wo cross to tho L bunk of
tho river, and follow it by Tdiko K.
and Ala-kiluse to Chit (6 hrs.). Hero
wo leuvo the main volley and pass
through Qulvar to Deli-baba (4$ lira.),
Ixjyond which wo cross tho Kuru-
hissar-Divrik road. After passing
Kara-chai , the road runs oyer a cot,
between the Kizil D. and the Kara
1 lei, amidst flno mountain soenery, to
Gemajuk (6 hrs.), a villago and
khan. Tlie mountain spurs are here
thiokly wooded with pine, and the
soenory is very fine. Above tho vil-
lago is an uuworkod load miuo (ga-
lona). Tbe road now descends to
Athaghi KioU , uud funs through
Kara Su to Churgenis (7 hrs.), whence
(ii.) is followed to Endngan (16 hrs.),
and Rte. 89 to
Erzer&m (35} hrs.).
— Dtvrik .
KOUTK 91.
8IVA8-DIVRIK— EGIN— MALATIA—
8AMSAT— BIREJIK.
Dlvrtk (Tbphi'ikc)
Pingau
Kgln. . .
Arsbkir .
Cheiinuk .
Malttia ( Mclitenc )
KlakbU .
S&msat (Sam osata)
KbalUt .
Blrqjik .
II us.
lu
U
is
U
0
20
13 *
15
6
After leaving Sivas wo cross the
Egri Keupri (p. 260), aud then fol-
low the 1. bank of tho Kizil Irniuk
by TMani uud Binacnl , to Gevrek
(5} hrs.). About 1 hr. beyond this
place wo loavo tho va)loy, and, pass-
ing Gelali (5 hrs.) and Beuikaza , cross
tho Kara Bd — an easy (miss ovor
grass slopes from tho wuters of tho
KUil Irmak, to those of tho Chalta
Chai. After having been joined by
the chau**£e from Zara, the road de-
scends through broken ground to Yar-
basan (9} hrs.), and then runs over
opon country to Sinjan (2} hrs.),
4280 ft., in tho valley of the Chalta
Chai. We now cross tho Dumlugh D.,
6250 ft., and join tho road from Ran-
gel about 2} hrs. boforo roapliiug
Divrik, Tephrike , Armn. Dibriuc (7
lira.), alt. 3650 ft., seat of a kaimakani,
on the rt. bank of the Chalta. The
town is still of some size aqd im-
portance; the green of its gardens
and orchards eon trusts pleasantly with
the arid rocky features of the E.
and N. hills. It is divided into two
quarters by a stream running iu a
ravine, which is spanned by 4 stone
bridges. In the N.W. quarter, amidst
the gardens, are tho konok, tho prin-
cipal houses, 2 mosques, the Arme-
nian church, and Armenian and Pro-
testant schools. In the S.E. quarter,
which is a mass of ruin, are tho bazar
and a few houses. On a height ahovo
Digitized by L^ooQle
255
Route 91 . — Pingnn — Chermuk .
this quarter aro the ruins of a eaaUe,
and a Heljftk moeque. Outside the
castle walls, and dominating the whole
town, is a splendid SdjiUc mosque,
used in part as a granary, but in a
good state of preservation. The prin-
cipal doorway is of surpassing beauty,
and two others, one leading to the
court of the mosque, and the othor to
tho medreeee attached to it, are also
good specimens of Scljftk art Tho
singularly rich, boldly relioved orna-
mentation is almost Gothic in cha-
racter. Tho great treasure of the
Mosque is a u Blue Stone,” i.e. a ball
of Persian porcelain suspended in a
cupola : a fabulous value and magic
properties are ascribed to it. In the
cemetery near it is a fine tomb , with a
pyramidal roof covered with turquoise-
oluo Persian tiles.
In the 9th cent, the Paulician here-
tics, escaping from the cruelty of the
Byzantine administration, established
themselves at Tephrike, where they
constructed a strong fortress, and
dwelt in a state of independence under
tho protection of tho Arnb Kinir of
Molitono. During tho roign or Basil I.,
however, Tephrike wag taken and de-
stroyed, ctre. 873, by the Byzantines.
In tho 11th cent, it was givon by
Basil II. to.Sonokhorim ; ana it after-
words passed into the hands of the
Beljftks, who built the mosaues. In
1243 it was taken by the Mongols,
and in 1 397 by Bayezid L; but ,the
town was practically in the hands of
the Kurd Dere Beys, who lived in
feudal state until the authority of the
Porte was enforced in tho present
century.
The winter road, after following
the Sivas chaueede for } hr., cro sse s to
the 1. bank of the Chalta, and then,
entering the hills, passes Piraeol (L),
and, 2 hrs. later, Homova (Aram).
After passing a tumulus and ruins, a
low summit is reached, whence we
dosoend a picturesque gully, for 2)
hrs., when Kara-geben (Moslems pro-
bably of Armn. origin) is seen L
Following the L bank of a stream for
8 hrs., tho fine gorge of the Euphrates
is reached at tho bridge of Pingan.
A nmmer track crosses tho river
under the castle and asoends in 1 lir.
to Venk (Turk). It then climbs steep
stony slopes, 1} hrs., from the top of
which (nearly 8000 ft) Taurus is
seen through mps in the nearer
range 8., and Dersim . is visible E.
as far as Erzingan. Thence we
desoond 2} hrs. to Keeme (Turk. ,aud
Armn.), and in 8 hrs. more reach
Pingan (10 hrs., Armn., p. 251), alt.
8300 ft, an important village, situated
in a natural theatre of rook on tho
L bank of the Euphrates. It has good
schools and a church with interesting
old Armenian tombstones. There is
no kh&n, but the people, though inde-
pendent, are hospitable. In tho
garden* across the river are some
ineeriptione , one (Latin) mentioning
Ala II. Ulp. Auriana , which was
stationed on the river frontier at
Dascuea (perhaps a fort 1 hr. E. on
the road to Hassan Ova). Our path
now climbs high and, after 2 hrs.,
turns into the hills, mossing first one
summit, 5900 ft., thon another lowor,
and in 8 hrs. readies tho end of an
unfinished chaueede, which is ]iartly
followed down a gorge to the rivor.
Tills route is very desolate, and
sometimes infested by Kurils. Wo
cross a wooden bridge to
Egin (7* hrs., p. 251), whence
Rte. 89 is followed to Arabldr (10 hrs.,
p. 252). After keeping to the Koban-
maden ch ausete for about 8 hrs. the
path leads to the rt, and descends to
the Soyui Chat, being joined, 20 min.
from tne stream, by tne Keban-maden
track. After the ford the direct
Malatia path forks rt., whilst ours
crosses a spur, and gains the bank of
the Euphrates near Malian, Tho
river here flows through a fine gorge,
along the brink of which the path
runs for some distance.
Chermuk (7) hrs.), a large Turkish
village very near the site of the
Roman post Kiaka, of which nothing
appears to remain. The path now
skirts tlto bonk, and tho Euphrates
here is as broad as at any point of its
^ Digitize!
Google
256
Route 91 . — Eski-shehr — Malatia.
upper course, but blocked by banks (1840), draggiug his guns ovor the
and islands. After fording the Mur pass by Geuz-kh&ne to Bosuo. Yon
Hamam Chat the path crosses a spur, Moltke was attached to the Turkish
passing, in 1} lira., KilisUik (Turk.) to army, and most of his famous letters
the Euphrates bank again opposite a on Turkey are dated from this place,
conspicuous hill crowned by a ruined The long occupation by Hafiz Pasha
church. Shortly after the river is left foroed the inhabitants to tako up
for good and the path runs over easy permanent residence at their bummer
country for 2 hrs. to a ford of the town Aspuzu^ “New Malatia,*' and
Kuru Chat. 1} hrs. further we roach the old town was allowed to fall into
the Sivas chautUe (p. 264), and the ruin.
old bridge, Kirk-geux Keuprisi , over The ruins of walls, mosques,
tlio TokJima Su; and follow the churches, khkns, Ac., oovor a very
chausste for 1} hrs. over tho rich largo area, but present almost nothing
Malatia plain to of interest. The best mosauo is tho
Ulu Jam?. There are almost no
Eski-shehr, “ Old Malatia,** Meli- visible remains of old Mclitone, nor
tene (7 hrs.), alt. 2800 ft. Tho founda- of tho standing camp of tho “ Thun-
tion of Mclilono is attributed to dcring" Legion. A few columns of
Semiramis, but tho oldest city was Homan period lie near tho Ala-mina-
probuhly at Arslan Tcpo (see hdow). reh Jam C. Tho cemeteries are very
The lloman city was founded hero largo, but contain nothing oldor thau
by Trajan as tho capital of all Kufic. An old Armenian church,
this region. It was an important half underground, is still in use.
point in tho Euphrates frontier line, There is a population of about 1500
being tho permanent station of the Turks and Armenians, a hahveh , and
famous Christian “ Thundering ** a few shot*.
lx)gion (XII. Fulminata). Molitcne Following tho chaussde and, in 1 hr.,
contributed many martyrs to the passing at some distance 1. a con-
Church. Justinian improved tho spicuous mound, Arslan Ten*, possibly
fortifications and mode it tho capital the site of tho earliest Meliteno, where
of his new provinco of Armenia a “ Hittite '* relief was discovered in
Tortia; but it soon became a point 1804, wo reach
of attack, and for several centuries
suffered all the vicissitudes of a border Malatia (2 lira ), alt. 2900 ft., tho
fortress. Near it Cliosrocs was chief town of a Sanjak, and a military
defouted a.d. 577, but towards the station. There are a fine new lihan
end of the next century it was taken and konak, and many other good
by tho Arabs. In 752 it was retaken stono buildings, erected sinoo tho
by Constantino Y. Copronyiuus, who earthquake of 1893. The Sultan on
transferred the people to Constant i- that oocosion contributed £T 8000.
nople, but it was recaptured by el- The Mosques lack interest, aud there
Mansur a few years later, and beoame are no antiquities. The concourse
the centre of a largo district ruled of Taurus Kurds in the baz&re is
by Arab Emirs. It wsb taken by the great sight. It is a trading
tho Danishmand, who made it their town of great importance, with lino
capital ; by Baldwin, Count of Edessa. bazars , and is reckoned the half-way
but recovered by tho Danishmand station on the post-road from Samsfin
Emira ; by tho Soljftks of Hfim to Baghdad. It has magnificent gar-
(1171); by tho Mongols (1235); by dens, and its peaches, apricots, and
Bayezid I. (1396); and by Tim Hr grapes are noted. The population,
(1401). When re-occupied by Selim I. about 30,000, includes ubout 6000
it was a mass of ruin. In 1839-40 Armenians of all denominations, and
Malatia was the headquarters of tho thcro aro Homan Catholic, American
Turkish array under Hafiz Pasha, and Protestant, and Native Protestant
from it ho marched to defeat at Nisib Missions.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 91 . — Kiakhta.
257
From MaIaIm to Kmkhta there are
several paths across the Taurus. The
easiest is said to oocupy 30 hours and
to take an easterly line, diverging
from the Kharput chaussSe between
Chiftlik and I*ogln ; it is said to bo
open in winter, and to present no
great difficulty for pack-horses. It
seems to be the rood over Taurus
from Tomisa to Bamoeata, of whioh
Strain* gives us Uio measurement in
connection with the “common road”
to the East Mr. Hogarth’s party
in 1894 followed a track which
forks 1. from the chaunee before
Chiftlik, and passing in 2$ hrs.
through Furinji , and rt. of Mamu-
rakka , ascends tho mountains. A
guide is essential. Thore would bo
no special difficulty about the path
up to the watershed (6500 ft) in sum-
mer ; but until late spring the snow
and swollen streams cause danger and
delay. Kurd settlements occur rt. of
the path, 2. lira.- and 4) hrs. from
Furinji. When the watershed is
crossed, the gradients booome steeper,
and tho path climbs in and out of deep
valleys, finally becoming so narrow
and steep as to bo practically im-
passable by loaded beasts. The last
8i hrs. from Karachu (Kurd) are fair
going.
Kiakhta (Syr. Gakthi) (20 hrs.), alt
2500 ft, the seat of a kaimakam, with a
strong police poet, and small garrison.
The Castle is the chief object of in-
terest } it is entered from behind the
Konak, and is now deserted and in
ruins. Its natural strength is very
groat, and it was long an impregnable
Kurdish stronghold. It belongs to
the early Arab period, and was taken
by Bayezid I. after the fall of Besne.
Below, on the E., is an interesting
contemporary bridge, spanning n
splendid gorge of the Kiakhta Su.
[Hence the famous Monument of
Antiochus I. of Commagenc, on the
peak of the Nimrud D., can be reaohed
m 4 hrs. It was discovered in 1881
by Ch. Seeter, engineer of the Diar-
bekr vildyet. The best description
[Turkey.]
is that of Humann and Puchstcin.f
Tho monument consists of a tumulus
about 160 ft high by 650 ft. in
diameter, flanked on the H., E., and
W. by three terraces levelled in the
rock. Thoeo on the E. and W. aro
adorned with much colossal statuary
in a bastard style, half Persian, half
Greek: all is much broken, and the
best fragments have been removed to
Europe. Tho soatod statue l rtro not
monolithic, but built up of several
blocks, and are very gross in execu-
tion. The relief e of the ruined por-
ticoes aro more artistic, but still
singularly coarse and ugly. . The
chief merit of the wbolo monument
is to be found in its marvellous
situation.
Approaching by tho jWith Wo see
on the L —
(а) B. Terrace, with soatod statues
of Horaklcs, Antiochus, Zone, Com-
magene, and Helios, flanked by lion
ana eagle at each end. In front is a
ruined altar and enclosure i bn either
hand remains of a species of colon-
nade.
Continuing round the tumulus Wo
come upon —
(б) W. Terrace, with the same
seated statute in reverse order, and
remains of colonnades on 8. and W.
N. is another colonnade, with reliefs
of Antiochus in oompany with , the
above-named personages : there were
found here also a lion with the king’s
horoscope carved on his side, and a
long Greek inscription, in which M The
Great King, Antiochus the divine,
just, illustrious, friond of the Roman
and Greek, son of King Mithridates
Gallinicus and queen Laodioe, divino
Philadelphia ” affiliates himself to
Persia and Greece, states tho motive
of the monument, and decrees cer-
tain commemorative observances. He
reigned betwoen b.c. 70 , and 81,
originally opposed the Roman ad-
vance under Lucullus, but made his
peace with Pompey in 65, and was
accepted as a client-king bv the
Republic. His capital was at 8amo-
sata, and he seems to have been a
f Remm in tffinatun mnd J Yordsfrun,
PP*M’
Digitized by ^.ooQle
258 Route 91 . — Adiaman — Samsat.
son of tlie builder of the Kara-kush
monument (y. infra).
(c) N. Terrace is devoid of statuary
or interest — a mere ruined colon-
nade.]
tlesoending steeply under the
cast}? rock, and crossing a spit of
low land, we reach the magnifloent
Raman bridge , by which the Bolam
Su is still crossed. Built by Ves-
pasian (?) and .restored by Beptiinius
Severn®, this bridge carried the fron-
tier road from Melitene to Perre and
Samosata across the Chabina. An
erased inscription of the first Em-
peror is on the L. bank terminal
column: four stelae ot Sovorus are
built into the balustrade. Four ter^
minal columns were inscribed by the
foqr cities of Commagene.in honour
of Bpvorua, his wife and two sons;
but GJeta’u has disappeared. Probably
all were once crowned with, statues.
Ttie,span of the arch is 112; 2 ft., and
jU 'height about $6‘1 ft abovo moan
water- lovel. The existence of this
splendid , monument of Boman rule
was first revealed by Von Moltke,
Who had see?} ft in 1839.
< petailed plans, $ o. t are given by
Ifrimann ana Puphstein. '•
¥*or j hr the rood keeps near the
Kiakhta Chai ; tlion, having ascended
jf hr., it passes within sight of the
Monument of Kara-kush (about 2 m.
t). This (as we learn from on in-
scription on the E. side) is the tomb
erected by King Mithridates of Samo-
sata (father of Antiochus I.) to* his
mother Isias, his sister Antiochis, and
his nieoe Aka(?), daughter of Antio-
chis. It is a smaller edition of the
Nimrud D« tumulus, about 65 , feet
high; at its base on the E. stand
two Dorio columns, and another has
fallen. They seem (to judgo from
fragments) to have borne a colossal
buu. On the S. is a single column,
supporting an eagle. On the N.W.
another with a high abacus, carved
with a relief of a male figure in
kingly tiara, bidding adieu to a
female. Near lie the remains of a
stone lion. The monument belongs
to the early part of the first century
[Henoe a direct easy road leads to
Samsat in about 10 hrs.]
Continuing Vo keep under the hills
L along an easy path, passing Kurdish
villages Omar K. (3 hrs. 20 min.),
Agh-ooa (1 hr. 10 min.X and Istron
(1 hr.). Near the latter are rock-cut
tombs. Hence a slight ditour rt. will
enable the traveller to visit the site
of Perre , an important Roman rood-
oentre. The site is entered by a
Byzantine bridge of three arches, ap-
proached by a paved road. There are
ruins of an aqueduct, cisterns, and
rock-cut tombs, the latte? woll cut
and in some cases inscribed with
their oooupants* names. Hence in
1 hr. we 'reach * *
Adiaman (8 hrs.), the seat of tli?
kaimakam of the Hisn Mansur Kazaf.
The town is well built, and : has
a good batdr ami fair khdn; water
is abundant and good, but thpro
are few gardens. The population,
Turk., Armenian, and a few Kurds,
is about 10,000. There is a Jesuit
mission. Small “ anticas ” are sold in
the baz&r, but the town itself has
replaced Perre in comparatively
modern times. We now proceed
along the stream, crossing aud re-
crossing, for 3 hrs. to Birgami (Kurd).
Thence over rolling hills by a very
good bridle-path, 1} hrs. to Harras
(Kurd). At Kursenik some distanoe
rt is an inscription. After } hr.
descend into the plain, and in | hr.
more reach
Samsat, Samosata, Armu. Shemshad
(5} hrs.), alt 1500 ft., on the rt bank of
the Euphrates. The modern village
occupies only the 6.E. corner of the
ancient site, the limits of which are
to be distinguished fairly easily,
especially on the N. and N.W. Only
the brick cores of a few fragments of
wall appear above ground. Fine re-
mains of the aqueduct whioh brought
water from the Kiakhta Ohai are to
be seen by following the river-bank
Digitized by
Google
Taking high ground again the path,
in 1J hr., reaches Ddiler (Kurd).
Route 91. — Samsat — Kkalfat. 259
if. 2 hrs. or more. The ruined ca$tle,
which ic 0 o conspicuous on a high
artificial mound N.E., is not in its
bJlit 1 tato tA .1 iff lit defloetioo rt . would bring
“ Clay Ufiatle,” and this oarth-monnd
is probably of great antiquity. Be-
tween the castle and the Tillage is
ferry j which crossed, fiemnk, (“ three
stones'* in Kurdish) could be visited.
Here is a tumuhu . like that at Kara-
hash, rising about 1| hrs. from the
lying a large block with HtitiU rditf Euphrates, and close to the rt. bank of
mnA 0.1 XI. _ L fha flw O £ 1
and imeription. Below on the river
bank are extensive remains of the old
river-ioalL In the houses of the vil-
lage are a few inweriptioii* and tiles of
Legio XVI, Flavia Fitma which was
quartered here.
8amsat has about 100 Kurdish
houses and 5 Armenian. Yusuf A gha
entertains strangers in the large
chifUik at the top of the village.
oamoeata was the point whence,
according to Strabo, started the groat
toad to India. ‘It seems probable
alsb that the Royal Road of Persian
times crossed the Euphrates here.
Later it becarhe the capital of the
Seleticid Kings of Oommagene, and
the Geuk 8u. There are Doric columns
N.W., N.E., and 8., and a mutilated
fallen sculpture pf two seated figures.
No inscription survives, but the tumulus,
approached by a dromoi , is doubtless a
royal Commagenian tomb. Hence the
it. bank might be followed, vid Rfim-
keteh, and Balkis-kaleh, to the ferry of
Birejik.j . 7
t '
i Leaving Deliler we cross the tree-
less plateau by several Kurd villages,
and redesoend into the gorge about
i hr. before reaching 1 1 «
Ehalfat (71 hrs.), alt. 1865 ft, the
Seat of a kaitnak&m, and the point
xuuko v* yuuuungiuio, .nuu «■ amuiuoui. wiu mm point
he such was besieged and taken by from whioh the Kurds of the region
Antony. It Was. seized finally by ccmtrollod. It is a small town,
Caesennius Paetus, legate Under Ves- dean and well-built, with a good
Ikisidd, and included in thehewprO- l ' f * 1 p
vinoe whioh that Emperor constituted.
Lucian was a native, and also the
heretic Paul, who maintained the
mere humanity of Ohrist. Later a
yilla&e, ManzaiudU, in its neighbour-
hood, was the birthplace of the Pauli-
cian heresy. . .
As the Geuk 6u, 4 hrs. below
Samsat, is only fordable near its mouth
in late bummer, it is best to oross the
Euphrates by the ferry to Kantara
(Kurd) on the L bank. — a tedious
pfooeas for which many hours must
bo allowed. ' The traveller should see
that not mbre than six horses kooom-
pany him in the boat. ThOn there is
a good path over Open rolling country
through several Kurd villages to
Rkrsald (7f hrs.), situated on ,a fine
bend of the rivOr— -here about 160 yds.
wide and running yHth a .rapid
current. In . the cliffs of the L bank
are rook-tombs, afid a mound above
fhe village tnarks the slid M ancient.
kahveh, poor baUr, and rich gardens.
The view of the Euphrates gorge is
very fine. There is a ferty, and a
direct road from the rt. bank, via
Khium and Urul, to Aintab (Rte. 100).
Leaving the gorge again we cross the
chord of an arc of the river, through
an open country with Kurd villages
to
Birejik (6 hrs.). See Rte. 101.
s 2
Digitized by
Google
200
Route 92 f — Ulash — Gurun.
110 UTK 1)2.
8IVA8 — QURUN— pERENDCH — ALBI8-
TAN-ZEITUN-MARA8H.
UBS.
MauJIlik . . . . . 16*
Ourun (tiauraina) . . . 10
Derendeh . . . . 7 •
AlbisUn (dUaitfa) . . . . 10
Zeitun 15
M«r*sli (C'ermanicia) . . 11
Tho cJtuussJ* on leaving Sivas runs
under an avenuo of trees to a stono
bridgo of 18 arches over the Kizil
Innak, which is said to have been
built by Senckliorim’s daughter in
the 11th century. It is called Sgri
Kcupri , “crooked bridge,” from its
form — designed to resist the pressure
of tho ice in winter and spring. Hero
great numbers of logs, iloated down
from the upper waters, are hauled
.ashore and sawn into planks. A
small stream, beyond the bridge, is
crossed, and the chausste then ascends
to the rich valley of BardaJbatk , a
Turkish village, near a small salt
lake ; it then passes over n high spur
to another salt lake, near which is
Ulash (6* bra.), alt. 4770 ft, a rich
Armenian village with a new khan.
Hence there is a road to Tunus and
Kaisariyeh. One hour beyond Ulash
tho road leaves that to Kangal and
Kharput (Rto. 93), and ascends to
Keramir (2J lira). In another J hr.
the watershed between the Halys and
Euphrates, 6100 ft., U reached, and
after a long descent to a tributary of
tho latter river there is an easy road
over the plateau to
Manjilik (6} lira.), alt. 5350 ft., an
Armenian village on tho N.E. edge of
the great upland of Dtun Yaila , which
is inhabited mainly by Circassians. It
is the seat of an Armenian bishopric,
and at the top of the village there is
a monastery with a small but very old
cruciform church. There is no ldidn %
but lodging iq readily accorded by
the villagers, who are large owners of
shcop, goats, and cattlo. Direct roads
lead to lvangal, Dorondeli, Tunus, uud
Azizieli. Tue road onwards runs up
a small ravine in the basalt, and
crosses undulating ground to Beuyiik-
deWi (3 lirp ), & Turkish village, with
a rude khan. Here it winds round a
bold crag, and crosses the low lime-
stone ridge, 6570 ft., thut separates
tho YaUas from the rocky district to
tho 8. O ver this rough broken ground
a mule track runs to Quran in 5$ lira.,
whilst the araba-road takes a wider
sweep and finally desconds a rocky
gully to
Gurun, Oauraina (7 Jira.), nit.
4770 ft. Tho town is built along
both banks of tho Tokhma 8u t a
tributary of the Euphrates, and is at
least 4 m. long. Indeod, there is no
considerable break in the chain of
g ardens und houses for double thut
istunco. About 3 lu. abovo the
central khan and bazar the river
breaks down into the gorge of Gurun
through a narrow cleft of wild end
beautiful character, well worth seeing.
On the rt. bank at the mouth of tho
cleft, and a few yards up the hillside,
are two Hittite inscriptions, one on
tho cliff face above a small spring,
the other on an isolated block ; both
are badly worn.
There are a good khan and an ex-
cellent bazar. Waist- shawls uro largely
made here. A preponderance of
Armenians in the population gives
tho place a clean and prosperous up-
pear&ncc. Circassian influence) is
predominant in the administration ;
and among the Moslem population
are many Kiztibath , and even a few
Yezidis, or dovil-worahippera. The
Americau Protestaut ami tho Roman
Catholic missions have stations, but no
permanent missioners. As Qaur&ina,
the pl&co was of no importance, and
there are no antiquities, except the
Hittite inscriptions mentioned abovo.
Modern Quran owes its importance to
colonisation by Armenians “ of the
Digitized by ^ooole
Houle 92 .— Derendeh — Albistan, 261
Exile** in the 12th century a.d.— the
period at which Aiizieh was given ill
lief by Ihe Byzantine Emperor Con-
st anti no IX. (Blonomachus) to Gagig,
tho last fugitive king of Ani. When
the Armenians had pressed south-
ward into Cilicia, Gurun passed, to-'
getlier with all the Anti-Taunts region,
into Seljftk hands.
The direct road to Albistan (18 hrs.)
leaves the gorge by a narrow ravine,
and, after crossing the high plateau,
runs over broken ground to yapalak
and the plaiit in which Albistah lies.
That by Derendeh follows the L bank
of the Tokhma Su. Several, detached
sections of a chaussfe have boon con-
structed, but (1892) without bridges,
and often without metal. Tilen, a
large miked Village with very Exten-
sive gardens; is reached in 1 hr., and id
2 hrs. moro Thoren , on rt bank of the
stream, is passed. The rocks behind
the village are vftry striking. At the
head of a lateral gorge, about 8 miles
off the direct road, and 6 hr*, from
Quran, lies Ashodeh* a mixed town of
2000 houses, with small bazdr and a
famous, but dismantled, Armenian
monastery, built against the face of a
cliff S. of the toWn. Ashodeh dates
from the 11th century, and is still a
place of wealth and importance.
Derendeh (7 hrs.) bos a population
largely descended from Armenians,
who colonised tho place iu the 11th
centhry. . The old town, now partly
in tains, lies in the narrowest part of
the river gorge* and is dominated by
a strong Castle on the rt. bank. The
new town extend* a long way down
the river; and lies in a more open
part of the gorge, heto very fertile.
Thence a much-travelled mule-road
continues to follow the cOuree of the
Tokhma 8u to Mnlatia and Kharput ;
and there irf reason to think that the'
Royal Road of Persian times took the
first part of this rout*. ‘ Thd road
onwara leaves the gorge, and ascends
ih 3 lirs. to Palanga ChifUik, on the
plateau { hr. 8.E. of Ashodeh. Here
are a small basaltic lion built into a
gateway, and an inscribed fragment
of a Hittilo stnlue, Imtli brought,
lidssibly, fiotu
Arslan Task, a wayside graveyard
1 hr. further 8. Left of the road are
two stone lions, of Hittite origin, dis-
covered by Von Vinckc. Only ono is
now upright ; the pair probably
flanked tho gate of a palace, whose
traces could perhaps be laid bare by
excavation in the graveyard. One
mile rt* is the village of Yeni Kent
(Kurd). 8 hrs. from Arslan Tash is
BenyVkipr Yokari ) Yapalak (Turkish),
with numerous remains of Byzantine
or early Armenian buildings in its
cemetery. One hour further, in the
plain, Is Kuchuk Yapalbk (defaced
Hittite intcription in the cemetery),
which is 2 hrs. from
Albistan (10 lir*.), alt. 8800 ft.,
situated iti a curve of the hills on rt
bank of the Jib fin, a little below its
main source. The road Enters over a
wooden bridge. The town was known
as Ablcwtha to the Arab and Armenian
chroniclers, but dates only from late
Byzantine times, having risen to im-
portance os Arabissus ( Yarpuz) de-
clined. It was in Seljftk hands in'
the 12th century, but was hold for a
short time by the Crusaders (a.t>.‘
1097-1105).
It is a flourishing town, with a
mixed population, a fair barer, and
a considerable garrison, designed to
watch Zeitftn. In the cemeteries are
late Greek inscription* and Roman
mile-Stones, brdUgnt from the anoient
Military Road which passed about
4 miles N. on its Way from Caesarea
to Mclitene (Rte. 95). A very not-
able inscribed Hittite monutrumt was
brought hero from Isghin in 1891;
and is now in Constantinople. Albis-
tan has the reputation of being un-
healthy ; and tne commonly recorded
variant of its name 4 * Kl Jlosian ” (tho
garden) is either an ertor or has ito
raison d'etre, owing to any Unusual
fertility or luxuriance. /!
There is a direct road to Marasli
(28 hrs.) vi& AmhbraraH (6 hrs.),
Hajin OgJtln (7 lira.), and the Jihftn
Digitized by L^ooQle
262
Route 92 .
gorge to Paj (p. 268). It is more
laborious than that tn’4 Zeitftn,
aud often almost impassable aftor
rains, but it passes through magni-
ficent scenery. The ZetiUn road
reorosses the Jihfin bridge, and follows
the rt. tank, crossing the Khurman Su
by a wooden bridge near its junction
with the main river. It afterwards
joins a direct track from Yarpux,
which, near Kavak-agach (8 hrs.),
runs off to the L down the rt bank of
the Jihftn, towards Hajin Oghlu.
This is the line of the famous Byzan-
tine pass between Arabiasus aud
Germanicia, and perhaps of a future
railway whioh is to oonnect A. Minor
with the Euphrates valley. The
Zeit&n road bends away from tho
Jihfin, crosses the Qeuk Su by a
ford, and passes near several Turk,
and Circassian villages to JSrejik
(4 hrs.), where is a small barrack
occupied by a military force, guarding
tlie mouth of the pass ( [Beiru(je Bet)
over the Beirut 1). The road noif
strikes iuto the mountains, and follows
the course of a stream flowing from
the N. face of the mighty Beirut Pugh,
whose snow-streaked crags tower pn
the left In summer there are Yuruk
yaUas just below the head of the pass
(7450 ft), and one of Zeitfinli Arme-
nians at Ala-bunar Oedik (4 bra.),
just over the highest point. Thenoo
the path lies down a precipitous gorge,
and is narrow and often crumbling.
The stream has to be crossed pnd re-
crossed ou bridges, rickotty at best
aud frequently broken by nature or
man. At 2} lira from Ala-bunar,
Zeitfin is sighted from a point high
up on the rocks. The descent to the
Zeitun Su occupies. hrs. and is
frightfully steep. Crossing by a
wooden bridge (8830 ft), an ascent
of J hr. leads to the famous Armenian
fastness , ....
, i . ,
. ZsitAn (4 lira.), whose importance
dates from the capture of the last
Armenian King at Gabon in 1375;
it has been a thorn in the side of the
Moslem lords of the plains N. and S.
pver since. Its pop. is about 10,000,
all Armenians or various dc nomine-
-r Zeitun.
lions, there being many Catholics
and Protestants. It is an Episcopal
see. There are a small bat&x • *
garrison, and a fort with guns com-
manding the town.
The houses cluster, terrace above*
tornuso, on a spur oyurlianging.tho L
tank of thu stream. The streets ate
narrow and winding. A castle of
some antiquity stands on tlie extreme
end of tho spur, and commands the
valley. The view either up pr down
the narrow gorge, cultivated where-
ever soil can lie on the steep sides,
is very beautifuL Olive plantations
are frequent, and these have given
the town its name Zeitun, M olive.** , . .
Zeitun does not seem to correspond
to any Byzantipe town, and. if existent
before 1375, can have been (like
Hajin) only a village- ; . Paul of
Aleppo mentions it in 1695 as the
u well-known Armenian town.** ft
long maintained practical indepen-
dence undor its own Dere Beys and
Bishop ; the inhabitants, a fine agilo
raoe, used to subsist mainly by
brigandage, so much so that caravan
trade through. this part of the Taurus
almost ceased, and Zeitunli became
a name of terror br and wide, in
the mountains and plains .north and .
south. The Armenians neither paid
taxes nor owned allegianoe to the
Osmanli Sultan. As the result of a
long series of guerilla fights and a
final stubborn conflict, the Turks took
Bio place seriously fn hand about
1878 and built the oxifting fort.
Outbreaks, however, continued undor
the lead of one Babtk, culminating
lately (1890) in a serious revolt, as a
result of which the Bishop and ipanv
notables were seized and imprisoned.
The situation is still far from peace-
ful, and travellers by this mute run
some risk of molestation both by
armod Zeitfinlis, and by the Govern-
ment, which naturally . looks with
suspicion on Europeans visiting a
disturbed district The Zeitfinlis are
a brave people, interesting both for
their character and their historical
position as the representatives of the
mediaeval realm of Lesser Armenia.
The path loaves the town again
Digitized by ^.ooQle
263
Route 92 . — Marash .
not far below tho fort, and in 1) hrs.
passes a hot spring 104° F., enclosed
in a bath-house ( lUja Hammam ).
Thence it desoends to a ravine and
follows tho stream that flows through
it to its junction with the Jihfln at
Paj Detrend (4 hrsA alt 2330 ft
— an occupied guard-house on the
L bank of the river. > Here the
Jihftu is crossed by a weak wooden
bridge on stone piors, which has
been more than once broken by the
Zeitflnlis, and, the road is joined by
the direct track from Albistan (p. 261).
The 1. bank is now followed for
]) hrs.; and, after orossing spurs to
tho Betti Chaiy A Spring, Cham Bunar ,
is passed and tho lisocnt of tho main
ridge of Akhir I)., the lost outwork
of Taurus on the 8., commenced.
The road ascends by zigzags, very
fteep and stony, to a little grassy
hollow, Ashak Meidan, alt. about
5500 ft, with a small lake, Kara QeuL,
rt., whenoe the town of Marash below,
ana Mt Amanus, bounding the horizon
on the S„ are seen. Thence a broad
steep path, out in the mountain side,
runs down past a covered tank, to the
Stony bed of a torrent 3000 ft below,
ana beyond this an easy path leads
to the top (2600 ft) of tho town of , ,
Marash, Assyrian Maras : Boih.
Oermanida: Byz. Mo pAaior'.' Arm.
Kermanig , (7 hrs.), a , first-class
post station with fino bazdrt, and a
targe trade In Kurd , carpets, rugs,
and embroidered garments. Half the
population Is Armenian, but Ar-
menian is not commohly spoken.
The Rouses are well-built, bht there
are no flue mosques. The ruined
castle is hardly worth a visit The
principal antiquities found here have
been Hittite : notably two stone
lions, now in Constantinople, some
stelae, now in America, find one or
two sculptured lmsnlt blocks built
into walls or steps. Most of these
pre said to have been found originally
near the famous spring, Kirk Geuz ,
which supplies the town from above.
On the slope below tho city can be
traced the enceinte of a Roman camp,
and a few tombs and late Greek inr
scriptions are to be seen. The place
was of great importance in the border
warfare between the Byzantines and
Arabs before the rise of the
Seljflk power ; in the end of the 11th
cent, it was seized by the Crusaders
under Godfrey of Bouillon, but later
became an important town of the
Cilidan Kingdom of Lesser Armenia.
It passed into Egyptian hands in the
middle of the 14tn cent. During tho
Turco-Egyptian war it was for 16
months the headquarters of Ibrahim
Pasha. It is celebrated as the birth-
place of the heresiarch Nestorius, and
the great Byzantine Emperor, Leo III.,
the “ Isaurmn.”
Tho Armenians arc of all denomi-
nations. Tho Gregorian church is
strong, and at Kir Khan, a summer
village about . 2 hrs. away on Akkar
D., the Oathcticos of Sis often resides
during the hot months. ; There is. a
large Jesuit establishment, a flourish-
ing American^ College and School,
ana two or throe Protestant Churches.
Cholera has been known to visit the
town in summer, but the high-lying
quarters are very healthy and admir-
ably supplied with water. There ore
fair Armenian .doctors, trained by the
Americans. Ho c hansstes reach Ms*
rash (1894), and there is no araha
traffic; but an extension of tho rail-
way from Adana has long been (pro-
jected, and lately a ehaussA from
Aleppo, fid Aintah, has been sur-
veyed. The roads are liable to be
beset by Ciroasrian or Turkish brig-
ands. Tho nearest port is Skan-
derfin, 3 days. • . • » .
I*
i
Digitized by L^ooQle
264
Route 93 . — Kangal- HaUm-lhdil.
MMT'l'ri 93.
6IVA8 — KHARPUT — DIAR&8KR—
MARDIN.
sna.
Ulaah ...
.
Kan teal . . , • ,
Hakim-khan .
. . U
IS
Tahir Kenl
. . s
Keban-madeu .
. ! \ H
Kharput .
. . . 10
Arghana Maden
• ,16
Diarbekr ( Amida ) .
. . 16
Mardlu . .
. . 16
N.B. — The stages for arabas on the
chaussee are : Deiikli-taah (10 lira.) ;
Alnja-khan (10 lira.) ; Hakim-khAn
(13 bra ) ; Hassan Bedik (7 lira.) ; Mu-
latto (? bra.); Kummur' Kh&n (12
lira); Mexreh (10 lire.) ; Burnus
KMn (7 bra); Arghana (Ilf bra);
Diarbekr (12| bra.).
• By Itte. 92 to Ulaah (6J bra.), one
hour beyond which plane the ohauu&e,
entering a pretty ravine, wind8 round
the fine limestone range of the Kurun ,
or Terja V. A mill is passed, and
a fine stream crossed, and there is
then a steep ascent, with fair gra-
dients, to Delik Tosh, “perforated
stone," a great cmg in which a small
chamber has beeu excavated. A few
minutes farther is the summit, 0200
It, aud } m. beyond it is the village
of DeUMi-Uuli (Turk.), with a small
kahveii in which Yon Moltkc stayed
in 1838. After a short but steep
descent, during which (hero is a good
viow, 1., of the fine poak Ilanti A,
anti of thu ridgo that marks the limit
of the Euphrates basin, the road
crosses undulating ground to
the 11th century. Anct. J&ispoend
ivaa somewhere near Kan gal, and th«
By/antine mouldings, Ac., built into
walls and lying in the church pre-
cinct may be relics of it. [Hence to
Diwih In 14 lire.]
Tlio bridle-path runs ill 0 lire, to
Alaja-khdn , a village lying almost
wholly within the precinct of a vast
ruined Selj&k caravanserai , and thence
in 10 lire, through Hassan Chelebi to
Hakim-khdtu The chaussee keeps
some distance to the rt. of Alaja-khftn,
and runB over easier ground to
Hakim-khAn (19 lire.), a large village
occupying a striking situation in a
hollow of the mountainous hank of the
Kui'u Chat. Thdro arc ruins of a tine
ancient khan. Here the two roads
from Sivas to Kharput diverge. The
chaussee crosses the Kuru (Thai, and
following its rt. bank reaches Hassan
Bedik at the edge of the Malatto plain
in 7 bra. It then runs for 7 hr*, qver
the plain, orosaiug tlio Tokhma Su by
a bridge (p. 250) to Malatto ; whence
it follows Ktei 95 for 18 hrs. to KUnr-
put. The bruUe-patb leads oyer tho
mountains, and passing a line of fine
basaltic rocks, reaches Tahir X. (9 lire.).
It continues for 7 hrs. over dcsolato
uplands, and then, descending a
rocky valley, tho Euphrates comes in
sight. In 3 hre. more, after a de-
scent of about 1500 ft., the river is
reached, alt. 2425 ft, and crossed by h
ferry uj; tho jioint where Liioulliis
crossed in B.c. 09 and returned in 07.
The stream, here called Murad Chai ,
is 120 yards wide, deep and rapid
It is fomed by the junction (2 Ins.
higher) of tho Murad Su (caste ru
Euphrates) with tho Kara Su (west-
ern Euphrates), and only takes the
name of Frat some distance further
down.f In a gorge J hr. fiorn 1. bank
lies
Knngal (7} hrs.), alt. 5220 ft, with
a mixed Turkish and Armenian
population, a fair h/um, and u few
shops. In the Armenian church is
preserved the “ Book of Kangul,” a
fine illuminated Armeniun MS. of tho
Gospel?, in rich binding, said to 1 c of
Keban-maden (11 hrs.), built on the
steep side of a rocky hill. It has a
f CoiukltraMe doubt hang* over tlx* nomen-
clature. Mr. llogartb auerts tbai the KntUrn
Kunhrat?a la known aa Murad, and the Western
aa Valu Su ; while the name Kara Su la un-
known.
Digitized by L^ooQle
265
lbtHtc 03 .— Kharpnl- Dtarbel r.
mixed jmpulfiiiotl of Turk*, Arme-
nians, and a Tow Tmpezuntino
Greeks, survivors of tho mining popu-
lation which used to work tho nrgonti-
ferous load oro. Want of fool,
combined with hod management, has
led to tho abandonment of tho mines ;
and tho town has shrunk to half its
former si te. The road now follow*
the chans***, through fine soenery, up
the yalloy of tho Maden Su to a point
2000 ft above tho Euphrates, and,
crossing a granite ridge, reache* Ar-
paUt (Armn.) in a fcultivated valley
m 0 lirs. After crossing another ridge
the road en tors Metireh,or Metreh , the
official capital of tho vilftyet of Ma-
mu ret ul Aziz, the residonco of tho
vftli and other officials, and military
station, delightfully situated among
gardens. About 2 m. further, upon
steep heights which rise on the
northern side of the plain, is
KhSrput, Armn. Kkarptrii}Q his.),
the chief town and former capital of
the vil&yet. There are fine tjazirs with
extensive trade in native Wine, cereals,
cotton, oil, Ac. Tho population is
oompownl of Turks, Kurds, Armenians,
and Jacobite Syrians. There is an
im|toriant American mission station,
and with it a college called “ Armenia
College," in whioh students con obtain
a sound, thorough, general education)
and instruction in ancient Armenian,
and all the languages current in the
country ; ahd a first rate girr$ school.
The Moslems have a t Hetlresse of high
repute.
The fine castle (magnificent view)
la worth a visit; note the carvings
on stones near the N. portal. Here
in 1122 were confined, by Emir
Balak, two crusading chiefs, Jocelyn
of Coiirtnay, Count of Edesso, and
Waleran. Baldwin II. of Jerusalem,
who attempted a rescue, wn* captured
and sent to join them; nu«l, though
the place was captured l»y some Ar-
menians disguised os monks, it was
Soori retaken by Balak^ and most of its
Christian occupant* were thrown over
thri castle cliff's. In thb 1 1th oeninry
Kharput had its present name ; pos-
sibly earlier it was known as Oirea-
Ihwecrta, and Was Capital of Hopheuc,
Homo Latin inscriptions , relics of
Domitius Corbulo’s oxpedition in the
reign of Noro (a.d. C5), have been
found in tho neighbourhood. In tho
14th century it . was in Mongolian
hands, whence it passed into thoee of
Bayezid.
Dcsocnding from Klmrput, the road
runs over its beautiful plain, dotted
with Armenian villages, and then
climbs to the head of the pass, 4520 ft,
from the waters of the Euphrates to
thoee of the Tigris. On the further
side of tho ridge lies the lake Getdjik,
whioh has no Outlet, bnt 1ms been con-
nected by a channel with tho Tigris.
On tho hilUido is Bunns Khin (7
lirs.), where a road branches L to Palu
and Mush (Rte. 87). The road now
runs for some miles along a narrow
gorge, and then follows the valloy of
the Tigris to
Arghana fcaden (8 hr*.), the richest
copper mine in Turkey, which lias
been worked for centuries. The miner*
are T^apezuntine Creeks, and they
wbrk on their oWn account, soiling tho
oro to tho Government. The oro crops
out on tho hillside, about 300 ft.
abovo tlic river. Tbo smelling works
arc much out of repait, ami tho opera-
tions are hot profitably conducted.
There are a batur, and fair Hutu.
Thence tho road at first follows the
river, and afterwards Ontera a very
rough oouutry, bare hills out by
almost perpendicular gorges, on the H.
edge of which lies
Afghans (3} hrs.), the chief town
of a sanjnk. It is picturesquely situ-
ated on the hilUido beneath two
ctags, on one of which is an Armenian
Monastery. After traversing some
rough ground ’ the road enters tho
Dinrbckr plain, and posses several
khan* and villages before reaching
Diarbekr or Amid, Antitta (12} lira.),
alt. 1920 ft., the capital of a vil&yet,
situated on tho rl. !>ank of tlie Tigris,
with gardens between tho town an«l
the r i vcr. The ancient A mida was en-
Digitized by L^ooQle
266
Route 93. — Diarbekr.
larged and strengthened by Canstan- been applied resembles that at Warka,
tills, in whoee reign it was taken, after which is peouliar to the Parthian
a long siege, by Sapor (Shahpur), king style.f Knflc inscriptions run across
of Persia. The historian, Ammianuq the fronts, under the entablature.
Marcellinus, who took part in itsde- The court of the mosque, or space)
fence, has given a minute account of between the two facades, is entered
the siege (xix. 1). Though ceded by by a gateway on which lions and
Jovian to the Persians, Amida again other animals are sculptured. The
became annexed to the Roman Empire, fountain in the centre of the court is
and in the reign of Anastasius, a.d. covered by a cupola, supported by a
602, was once more taken by the Per- very pretty colonnade. There are
sians, when 80,000 inhabitants were about 50 other mosques,
slain. On the termination of the war. The most interesting churches are
it' reverted to the Romans. It was the 07*. of 88. Cosmos and Damian
taken, oiro. 638, by the Arabs, and (Jacobite), which contains the relics
afterwards passed into the hands pf of a canonised physician ; the apee of
the Beliaks and the Persians, from the original building and some of tho,
whom ft was taken by Selim I. iq details are classical. The Ch. of 8 .
1515. , James (Greek) ; the apse and E. wall
The town is surrounded by massive of the old building remain ; mosaics
walls of black basalt, with square and which decorated the wall are covered
round flanking towers, and, except on with whitewash. The citadel , in
the river front, there are a second which is the serai, is in the N.E.
wall and ditch. There ore 4 gates : comer and in ruins. Near the serai
on the N. gate. Dagh Kapu, ore Greek is a tower, supposed to be the belfry
and Kuflc inscriptions, and some sculp- of an old church, whence there is a
turee; and on the W. gate, I?ifrp fine view over the town. Water is
Kapu, are also sculptures and an brought by an nqueduot from a spring
Arabic inscription dated a.h. 559. about 2 m. distant. Within tho town
The houses are also of black basalt, is a tank with sacred fish. About
and the place is often called Kara , 2 m. from the town, on the Mordin
(“ black ”) Amid. Olose outside the road, is the bridge over the Tigris,
town, approaching from Syria, is a lava here 60-80 yds. wide. The older por-
stream, exposed ny quarrying stone, fion is probably Roman ; the western
and exhibiting prisms strikingly simi- part, wnich bears a Kufic inscription,
lar to those of St. Flour in Auvergne, is Arab.
The Ulu Jam?, “ great mosque,” The baxdr is good. The gold and
apparently ocoupies the site of q silver filagree work is peouliar in
Sassanian palace. — the so-called “ pa- character and design. The red and
lace of Tigranes/' The remains con- yellow morocoo leather has a great
sist of the facades of two palaces, reputation. Fruit is good and abpn-
facing one another at a distance of dant, and the melons grow to an extra-
400 ft. They seem to have been ordinary size. The ,ootton industry,
built up of materials taken from some which formerly kept 1600 looms at
more ancient palace, possibly that of work, has almost died out ; but thq
tho Armenian king, Tigranes If., iqanufacture of silk is increasing,
who drove the Parthmns temporarily Diarbekr oocupies such an important
out of Mesopotamia (b.o. 74); ana position that under favourable circum-
they are interesting for the exuberant stances it would quickly reviye.
richness of the carved shafts, capitals The climate in summer is exoeq-
and friezes, and the various peculiar sively hot and unhealthy. Epidemics
forms of arched openings. The fa- of typhus are frequent, ophthalmia is
9 ades are in two stories with columns common, and cholera sometimes apt
of marble and porphyry, and the pears. The Diarbekr boil, like the
columns of the lower have Gorin thian Aleppo * 4 button,” often leaves a deep
capitals. The ornament which has f J'lteuc spiere, Susviniun AichiUxtun.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
267
Route 94,-^Katuar — Atimek .
•car. Scorpion*, of three colours, are
very oommoo and widely known for
their virulence. The winter* are fre-
quently severe, but not long. Ice is
stored in shallow paved wells, outside
the city, for summer use.
The population, which is said to
have been 400.000 in 1750, Is now
about 30,000, of which nearly half is
Christian. It consists of Turks, Kurds,
Turkomans, Armenians (Greg., Prot,
and R. C.X Jacobites C baM asans,
Greeks, Ac. The Protestant com-
munity is large and flourishing, and
its pastor, Kev. T. Boyaiian, who
speaks English fluently, is aim British
Vioe-Oonsul.
Sport , — Near the town are boar,
qrolvee, foxes, hares, jackals, great
and little bustard, partridge, dock,
snipe, Ac.
Prom Diarbekr there is a good
road, at flist following the valley of
the Tigris, aod then crossing to the
Euphrates basin, which runs by Ak-
bsmar Khim (G hra.X and Incibh
thin (8 hra.X to
Martin (4 hr*.). 8oo p .201
ROUTE 04. ’*•
; ,i , v ■
tIVAA-AZIZIKH— I nHAHIT-MAdtlt—
•*.
, ties.
Atistok (ArianUkim). , •
Khshr (f visas) .11
flajte . ; ‘ ! . #♦
Sh • • l. ■ t. • • « 14 i
This route runs through tkc Anti-
Taurus; and Taurus mountains, and
excepting between the ridg* N. of
Hajhi and Sis is practicable for crofto*.
Leering Bivas, it cr osses the Kixit
Irmak by the Egri Keupri (p. 2601
and .rant up a picturesque glen, 8.
of Rte. 92, to Chateran (A non.).
Thence a rich undulating district is
cr ossed to Kernel (6J bra., Moslem),
and the fertile tumm Ova, which can
also be reeobcd br an easy araba-road
from the Sivaa-Kaiaariyeh ekmmmAe.
Ooming this plain, the road runs past
Tanas, anct TVmosa, on a spur (1.),
aod Kam-ogU* to Abasffl (8 hra),
whence there is an easy pass, 5760 ft,
over the watershed between the Halys
aod the 8arus, to Kmamlik (Otrco.X
and the Zamemii Su, anct Carmml m*,
Kalmar (7 hra., Cticn.Xalt. 6200 ft,
near large springs about 1 m. from
the river. Here, at KcaanHk, and at
other places on the fringe of the great
grass plateau called Utum Tafia, the
Circassians breed large numbers of
horses. About 4 hra. N.R in the
middle of the Usun Yaila, is Xursn-
shshr Kalth, Oarmali* (7), a large en-
closure with well-built walla, appa-
rently a Bynantioe caravaneerai,
through which a military road ran.
The Zamanti (trout) rises just oulside
the walls and flows through the en-
closure. Beyond Kainar we rejoin
the river, and, following the it. bank
to a wooden bridge, cross it 1 m. before
reaching
Ariitahj Ariaratkia - Tmmmndut
(4 hra.X alt 4970 ft, the seat of a
kmimakam. It occ up ies a flue posi-
tion on the lower elopes of a hill from
which a full grown stream, Bmnnr*
btuki, bursts forth. Near the sonrre
are sha p eles s ruins. Hi which gold
objects are said to have been fonnd :
and on the hill above, there is a very
large stone tmmmlue whence a fine
view of the valley aod ML Argaeus is
obtained^ Tmmandoa was ooe of tlie
places given to the Armenian king,
Gagig, by Constantine IX. (Mono*
machos). The Aldrich Kasa has a
population of Circassians (Gab-
) and Avshara. • •
• [dtieieA to Kaitariftk (17 hrt.).' The
road descends the valley of the Zamanti,
and, hi 2 brs., cr ess es to the it bank by
a bridge (wood). It then runs over a
•tony tper to a cemetery (fragments of
cdtunov), to the N. of which, on a
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268
Route 94 .—Saris-ShaKr:
conical hill, are the mins of a castle,
Melik Kalrh , now a tekke. About t hr.
Itefore reaching Yere-gechen , near which
was probably Larissa-Erpa , the road
joins that from Kaisariyen to Geukiun
by tho Yedi Oluk pass (Rtc. 96), and
follows it to Skrtk (7 hrs., Amin.).
The way then lies over rich open country
past Eloashl (source of Kkrek §u, rtA ;
KaraJai (fine old kh&n) ; Zertzek (1.,
Rte. 95) ; and other villages'; and finally
descends to Tatianin (p. 62) by one of
the ravines which break the line of
cliffs that overhang the plaiu of Kaisa-
riyeh (10 hrs.).J
The ar aba-road over .Anti-Taurus
ascends an open valloy N. of tho
Azizieh hill ; tho bridle-path keope to
tho 8. of it, aud joins tho araba-rood
about 1} hrs. before reaching the head
of the Yedi Oluk Bel , 6280 ft. — a
broad saddle between hills about
1000 ft. high. The forest aud rock
scenery, as tho summit is approached,
is very fine. The descent to
Saris (G* hrs., Av.X alt. MOO ft, is
easy, and thenoo there is a road
(Etc. 96) over the Binboa D. to tho
Albistan plain. The way now lies
down the vulley of the Saris Su , anct.
Sams, for about 2} hrs. to Kttmer
(p. 270), where the river enters an
impassable gorge, and the road to
Gculoniit. turns oil* 1. Tho valley
above Keiner is neoplod by Ayshars,
who are gradually passing from a
pastoral to an agricultural life. Be-
yond Koroer we follow the line of the
Roman road to . .
• Shahr, Comana Cappadocian (4)
hrs., Armn.X alt. 4760 ft, on the Baris
Hu. Comana was one of the most
splendid and famous plaooe of uiir
Uquity. Strabo describes its great
templo of tho goddess Ma, lying in a
doep vulley and served by 6000 priests
and votaries. Tho worship was
orgiastic und included public prosti-
tution after the Semitic manner; in
fact, Comana was the strongest centre
of pre- Aryan influence in A. Minor.
It was known in Justinian’s time as
tho “ Golden.” Its priestly dynasts
were respected by Pom|>cy when he
settled thp constitution of A. Minor
in n.c. 65-4, and continued in a semi-
independent position for many years:
Tho place was mado a Roman colony
in the 3rd centy. a.d., and was known
at tliat time as HieropolU. Two of
its minor temples hod alroady iu
Procopius’ time been transformed into
Christian churches. It is last men-
tioned by Archbishop Baldric, in
relating the march of the Crusaders
of 1097, who [Missed through tho Surua
and Geuk Su Valleys on their WAy to
Northern Syria.
Comana was built on b6th banks of
tho riyer, but the more Important
buildings wore on tho rt bank. On
the L bonk are ruins of the theatre , of
which the auditorium is practically
completo; of a brick structure, per-
haps a bath , or gymnasium and of a
laige building with a fine front to-
wards the river, On the rt. bank, on
a spur round which the river sweeps,
are the remains of a terrace with*
colon! iodo, aud above it an anoienf
church occupying the site of a temple.
The church, which has be6n repaired
by the Armenians who settled at
81iahr about I860, has an interesting
east window, and several inscriptions
have been built into its walls. Round
the church there is a largo occumiila-
tion of rubbish, sml in ouo of tho
Armenian bouses is u fine mosaic.
In the cliff beyond the spur are rock-
hewn tombs with partially legible in-
scriptions. On tho low ground oppo-
site tho theatre is. a mass of ruins,
urnidst which can bo distinguished
the remains of 3 small churches , and
of a temple . From Iho latter a path
leads up a glen, post rock-tombs to a
spring of cold water covered by a
vault, and higher up to a small temple ,
charmingly situated in a recess in tho
hill. The col la is nearly perfect, and
on ono of tho fallen columns is a long,
and partially legible Greek *»*»#•»>«
tion. Further on, in another valloy,
are tho ruins of a church with a long
inscription. On the bills above Shalir
there are large numbers of small
tumuli. The Armenians are Grego-
rian and Protestant
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200
Route 95. — Hajin — Zerezek.
Thu araba-road from Shahr runs
up the Tekke Dere, and enters the
Maghra , a fertile district, with several
villages, on the rt. bank of the river.
The bridle-path follows the valley,
through fine scenery, past Ak-bunar
(Circn.), and Khada-KMneh (Av.),
both on the L bank, where wooden
bridges cross the river. The latter is
on the site of the hospital used by
the Turks during thoir operations
against Kozan Ognlu, who defied tho
authority of tho Sultan in the wild
Hajin district. Below this tho river
runs S.E., and the path ascending to
tho Maghra, skirts the W. slope of
Viral D. to join tho amba-road from
Kaisarlyeb, vi4 Tomnrso. Tmvolling
S. between high mountains, we reach
the edge of o steep, rocky descent of
1 300 ft. to the bod of a ravine, through
which the Hajin Su flows. Near the
foot of the hill (rt.) are tho hoad
waters of the stream, which it followed
down to
H^jin (9) lira.), alt 8200 ft., pic-
turesquely situated on k rockv pro-
montory on* tho 1. bank, nnd shut in
by loflv mountains. Tho town dates
from the 14th oonty., and has had a
history similar to that of Zoitftn
(Rte. 92). It is the seat of a kaima-
kam ; the batdr is bad and there is no
khan. Tho 9000 inhabitants are
wretchedly poor; of this number a
few are Moslems, but most are Arme-
nian. A branch of the American
Mission has established schools for
hoys and girls, and there is a flourish-
ing Protestant community. On tho
rt. Iiank is a Monastery in which tho
Armenian Bishop resides. Near
Hajin must bo tho sito of Badimon .
[A difficult path leads E. across tho
preoipitous gorge of the Geuk Su,
known as the Hancha Dere, to Geuk-
sun (0 lira., Rte. 95).]
Tho Sis road runs down tho con-
fined valley, in which portions of a
chatmm have been made, and in 2 hra.,
opposite Kurlethen, the road to Feke
(a military station, 6 hrs. from Hajin)
turns off rt In another hr. we cross
the H^jin Sn, and the Paris (bridge),
2230 ft, just Abovo tboir junction iu
a romantic valley in which aro a few
houses, and then climb tbe Kiras Bel ,
5180 ft, by stoep zigzags over rock
and looee stones. The descent of
2000 ft to the Tapan Tiers, an open
valley, half wav to Sis, with scattered
houses, is equally bad. In this valloy,
whence there is an easy road by Yar-
basan to Ears (p. 274), was probably
Praetorium. Wo now cross broken
country to tho Kirkgechitl J)ere , which
is bordered by bold lofty mountains,
and the ford of the Girgen Su, lieyond
which a rocky spur is passed boforo
reaching
8is (14 lira ). Boo p. 187.
ROUTE 95.
KAISARIYEH — QEUKSUN — ALBI8TAN
— MALATIA — KHARPUT.
HU.
Zerrcek (Aravuta') . . . 7
Kemer ( Sirica ) . • . • . l&t
Oenkaun (t\Ku$us) . . 0
Yaxgu* (Arabitsus) . % - It
Pulai. ! .* .’ .’ !* 1«
M alalia . la
Euphrates ferry ... . 7
Kbarpul . . . . . , . . II ,
Leaving Kaisariych we travel either
viA Tala a (p. 52), or follow the araba-
road by Tavtaeun or Qtrmir to,
Zeraaek, Arasaxa (7 hrs.), alt
4800 ft, a. wretched village on the
plain. Thence the bridle-path runs
past Kureli, and over a low range of
nills to Muhqjir K. t at tho junction
of tbe Kkrek end tho Zamanti, and,
erossing the latter river, leads over
hilly ground to the Kuru Chai. The
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270
Route 95. — Sugutlu — Geukmn.
araba-road keeps to the 8., passes a
tumulus, and, entering the low hills
at KiziUeuren K., crosses them,
5680 ft., to
• *.i . -I i if j:
Sugutlu (3$ hrs.), wfaiero thety is
a bridge over tho Zamantt After
ascending tho 1. bank for about f hr;,
we turn up the stony valley or the
Kuru Chai , “ Dnr River,” and join tho
bridlo-path, and an araba-road from
Yoro-gochcn (p. 268) boforo reaching,
by a vory easy ascent, tho head of
tho Kuru-chai Bel, 6500 ft. — a bold
gorge between the Kush D. and Su-
vanli D. Beyond the pass the roads
divorge, one leading S. down the
Tckke Dere to tho Maghra district and
Shahr (p. 268), the other descending
by Muhajir K. and Kara Kilisse to
Kemer, Sirica (12 hrs., Av.), alt.
5400 ft., on the Bar us. There is no
modem bridge , but the ruins of a
Roman one which crossed tho river
in two spans. Tho arch and abut-
moots on tho 1. bank are well pre-
served. It carried the Military Boad
from Caesarea to Melitene — an im-
portant part of the Roman frontier
defence against tho East — which was
constructed, or very largely improved,
by Sept Severus in a.d. 198. The
milestones recording repairs, ranging
from the reign of Severus to that of
Diocletian, are conspicuous objeots in
village graveyards along the line of
the road, e.g. at Kemer, Yalak, Me-
bemet Bey K., and Geuksun, and the
traveller, leaving Kemer, will find a
group lying tn situ 2 m. on the road
(the 149th station reckoned from
Melitene). He will also often note
the agger of the actual road running
beside his track. It is particularly
conspicuous S. of Yalak, in the pass
above Keklik-oghlu, and again in the
valley of the Qeuk Su, E. of Karaman-
oghlu, where the roadway is actually
intact for a considerable distance.
From Kemer the traveller a|n reach
Shahr , anct. Comana (p. 268), in 2 hrs.,
and thence rejoin the main road at Yalak
in 2 hrs. ; or he may, after crossing, the
Kuru Chai Bel from Sugutlu, descend to
Shahr, 10 hrs., and thence proceed Wd
Kemer, or direct to Yalak. f
. Leaving Kemer we reach Yalak
(Av.) in 1 !hr., and . cross tho pass, at
the 8. ond of the Binboa L L, ovor tho
watershed, 6000 ft., between tho basins
of the Sams and Pyramus. 1 m.
beyond the pass is Keklik - oghlu
(Kurd), and Circassian villages are
seen rt and L After passing Mehemet
Bey K. tho course of a small stroom is
followed for 1} hrs. to
• Geuksun, Cocusus (9 hrs.), alt
4500 ft., a miserable village (Turk.,
Av. and Armn.), with a few shojps
and no khdn, half hollowed out
of soft rock. Cocusus is famous as
the place where S. John Chrysostom
was banished at the instance of the
Empress Endoxio, a.d. 404, and
whence bo continued in spite of her
to rule the Eastern Church till his
transference to Comana Pontica, on
tho road to which ho died. It was
an important station on tho military
road, at the head of the wostern pass
through Mt. Taurus to Marash, and
played a prominent part in the long
wars between the Byzantines and the
Arabs. The Crusaders of 1097 found
it prospering as “Ooxon n in Armenian
hands. . r • i
i . • r , ’
[There are 8 routes through Mt. Taurus
from Geuksun to Marash. * (i.) The
direct road by the Ayer Bel, Tekir-yaxi,
Fumus , and Temeliltk , though rough, is
not very difficult ; the most formidable
obstacle is the ascent and descent of the
Ayer Bel. This route is said to have
been followed in 880 by Basil I., who
marched on foot at the head of his troops
to encourage them, (ii.) By the Petr-
men Dere, and over the Dolaman D.
(iii.) By Geben, supposed to have been
followed by Bohemund and the Cru-
saders of 1097, which passes through
fine sceneiy. It runs by Tash-eluk,
and, entering tho mountains under
Choruk Kaleh , crosses an easy pass,
6000 ft., to the Kursulu Su, Following
that stream, a track leads rt to Hajin
(p. 269), and 8000 afterwards the path
divides. One branch follows the 1. bank,
and crosses a spur of the Deli-hubek D. :
the other keeps to the tt. bank, and
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271
Route 95. — YarpHz--Pulat.
tvagfles under Mrianchil Kdleh. Both
have easy ascents and difficult descents
to a plain which is crossed to ’
Oshsa, hr Gabon (8 hrs.), alt. 4800 ft.,
on tho hillside, about 800 ft above the
fertile valley* Gcbcn, or probably Mari-
aucliil Kalch, was the last asylum of
Leo VI., King of Lesser Armenia, who,
after a siege of 8 months, was obliged to
capitulate, 1875, and was carried as a
prisoner to Cairo. From Geben there is
a track through a picturesque district to
Andarin Ova and Kars-Bazir (8 hrs.J,
and another by Chokak (Circn.) to
Ajemlu in 12 hrs. (Rte. 98). The Sis
road follows the 1. bank of the Karsulu
and, passing Sirhek and Bunduk <L),
leaves the plain in about 84 hrs. and
crosses the spurs of the Dolaman D.,
5600 ft* by a very difficult rocky path.
Th? descent to the Karsulu Su, which
hah run, vkith several falls, through a
deep chasm, is very steep, and there is
an equally bad ascent, the path being in
places only a foot wide, to
- Ytntyft-kaleh K. (11 hrs.)j alt 8000 ft.
High above the village, on the rocky
ridge of Bdsh-kontuh, axe the ruins of
Yeuijc Kalch. We now cross 1* tween
Basli-konnsh and Shaliin Kayasi,
11 Eagle Crag,*' and in about 1 hr. reach
Kaishlif whence there is a rough descent
to a mill at the junction of the Karsulu
and Jihdn. From this place Rte. 98
is followed to Maras* (7 hrs.).] .
The direct road to Albistan runs by
Seiler^ Fundukj and Korkmas. Tbe
mOrb interesting route keeps high up,
on tho L bank of the Geuk Su, pass-
ing graveyards with Roman mile-
stones, notably that of Khardi-kavak,
4J hrs. from Geuksun, in which are
nearly twenty stones, it hrs! further
is Karbman-oghtu (Turk% and Fun-
duk and other Circassian villages lie
near the rivor (rt). We now enter
broken ground, aud the snowy oliifs
of Beirut D. come into view (rt). Thl
low spur dividing the basins of the
Geuk 8u and Knurman Su is then
crossed to ,
Yarpus, Arabians (11 hrs.). It is
p large ill-built village (Turk, and
Armn.), with two mosques, a small
bazdr, and JK> khdn. There are
h few Greek inscriptions . Arabissus
was an important Byzantine road-
centre, and fortress guarding the N.
end of the great pass to Gennanicia
( Marash, see Rte. ife). [From Yarptiz
it is IS hrs. to Gurun, via A 1 midi.]
Tbo road now traverses a stony valloy,
and passes large springs W. of
Isghin (8 hrs., Turk.), on the rt.
bank of the Khurman Su. Here
was found a " Hittito M wedge-shaped
monument inscribed on all four sides
With a long text in relief, which was
taken in 1891 to the 8erai at Albistan,
and is now in the Imperial Museum
in Constantinople. The Khurman
8u is forded, and marshy ground is
crossed to the wooden bridge over
the Jihdn at
Albistan (3 hrs., see p. 261). Tho
anoient military road kept to the N.
and crossod the 8ogutli 8n by tho
ruined bridge at Giaour -euren. I /cav-
ing Albistan we pass the head-waters
of tho Jihdn, a group of magnificent
springs full of trout, and in 21 hrs.
roach Til (remarkable tumulus, and
many lato remains), beyond which is
Xds-agha (41 hrs.). In 3 hrs. more
wo ford the Sogutli Su at Dtdcnin X.,
and, entering a wilder region, cross
the rugged pass of Ola Kayo, 7300 ft,
closed in winter — the watershed of
the Euphrates basin — to
Pulat (9| hrs.), hit 4300 ft, on an
affluent of the Sultan Chat There
are two routes to Malatia. The
easier reaches the Sultan Cbai in
4 hrs. and follows its L bank to the
Barracks (6 hrs.) erected for a squad-
ron of cavalry that guards the Sultan's
farm. Here there is a bridge leading
to the rt bank, and to the plain ovor
which tbe way lies to Malatia (5 hrs.).
The shorter crosses the river by a ford
at Chatluy whenoe a track leads (L)
to Argo, anot Area. It then run*
over a plateau to Ka&aik, and finally
descends through groves of fruit trees
to i ‘
Malatia (10 hrs., Rte. 01). Keeping
some distance S. of Bski-skehr , “ old
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272 - Route 9 Q.-^nti-Taurus.
Mulutia,” wo reach the ferry over the
Euphrates from Itoghlu (Kurd) to
Kummer Kh&n (7 bra.)- The river
is about 80 yds. wide, and it is pro-
jioscd to throw over it at this point
an iron bridge. On tho rook on tho
1. hank is an inter iption, in “ Vannic ”
cunoiform, which was discovered by
Von Moltke. [A littlo higher up the
river there is another ferry from Perot
to Kadi K. on the L bank, j Tbo road
now ascends a valley, and, running
over easy country, reaches Bemiluitha
in 3 lira., and Khan K. in 4 lirs. more.
From the latter place the road descends
to tho Klmrput plain, and
Mesreh (10 hrs.), whence it is 1 hr.
to Kharput (lUo. 93).
ROUTE 06.
ANTI-TAURU8.
The Anti-Taurus is formed by two
ranges, which start N. from tho moun-
tain group in which the E. Taurus
ends, and eventually become merged
in the high ground of Uzun Yaila W.
of Gurun (p. 260). Tho W. range,
breaking away from Taurus at the
iiakir i)., “ Copper Mt.,’’ runs N.E.,
and is known by various names. Tho
E. range runs due N., and, being more
continuous, is called throughout Bin-
boa D. Between them runs the Sarit
Suj anct. Sarut f which, after receiving
tho Zamanti and other streams, enters
Cilicia as tbo Sihiin. The valley of
tho Saris, including tho Maghra
district on tho rt. bank S.W. of
Comuna ( Shahr\ is a fertilo tract
containing numerous Avshar, Circas-
sian, and Armenian villages.
Iu ancient times “ golden ” Comana,
the holy city of Mn, gavo this dis-
trict peculiar fame and sanctity. The
inhabitants were called generally
Oataonians. Tho Persian “ Royal
Road/* and the great Roman trade
route to tho East, crossed the valley.
Byzantine armies coming from Ari-
aruthia-Tsamandiis (Atizieh, n. 267)
frequently traversed it Arabs, Turks,
and Mongols streamed over it from
E. to W., and one division of tho
Crusaders crossed it on their way
to Palestine. Generally speaking
operations against the East were by
thq Cilioian Gatos up to 840, and
after that date by the road across tho
Saris valley.
The W. rango is crossed by tho
following passes commencing from
tho N.
(i.) Tho , Yedi Oltil: Bel (Rio 94),
which is used by country ambus,
affords the shortest route E. from
Kaisariyeli to Albisian and Malatia.
The road enters tho Saris vulloy at
Siirit and continues us a rough wheel-
track through the Binboa D. to tho
A lbistan plateau.
(ii.) Tho Kabak Tope Bel is an cosy
pass much used by pack-animals, and
passable by two-wheeled native carts.
Tho road leaves tho Zamanti valloy
at Kizil-euren , and enters that of the
Saris at Kara-hUitte.
(iii.) The Kuru Chai Bel (Rte. 95),
by which tho Roman road crossed, is
the most important, and is practicable
throughout for arabas. E. of tho
pass the road forks, one branch de-
scending by Karu-kilissc to Kemer
and tho other to Bhahr.
(iv.) The Kuru Bel is easy for
pack-animals. The road crosses tho
Zamanti at the Manoghren bridge,
and joins that to Sbahr (iii.) in tho
Tekke Here east of tho mountains,
(v.) The Geuz Bel is unimportant,
(vi.) Tho Dale Bel is a precipitous
puss used by the uatives its a short
cut. Tho road passes through
Ttnnurze, ami crosses tho Zamanti nt
ffaugen ; beyond tho pass it enters
the Maghra district, and joins the
route by
(vii.) The Qez, or Kat Bel , an impor-
tant pass over which runs tho road
from Kaisariych, through Tomarze, Uf
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273
Jlitile 97. — Toniarie — Fer&kdin.
Hajiii fettd Sts. Th6 Zamanti is crowed
by fe bridge below 8uagen, and the
road emerges near Yuk-gechi in the
broadest and most fertile part of the
Saris Talley. '
The E. range, Binboa D., is pierced
by no passes properly so called.
(i.) A road, passable for conn try
arabos, runs up the Baris valley by
Kara-bunar (At.), and crosses tho
broken country at the N. cud of tho
range to TekaraJchba, and Ourun.
(ii.) A practicable, but difficult
wheel-track loaves tho Saris valley
near Keui-yeri ’, opposite Saris, and
leads by Poirot (Kurd), ftD( * Ortiilu
(Kurd), to Ourun (Etc. 92) in 14 hrs.
(iii.) Another difficult wheel- track,
the usual route for pock animals,
from Kaisariveh to Albistan leaves
tho Saris valley at Keui-yeri, and
crosses the Binboa D., 6550 ft., to
Marabus (5 hrs.), alt. 4600 ft. ; 1 J hrs.
further, on a rock, at tho junction of
the Marabus and Khurman rivers,
is Khurman KaUri , where are remark-
able rock-inscriptions, and a mediaeval
castle. It is perhaps Thavplur , the
seat of the Armenian patriarens, 1064-
1118. Thence the valley is followed
down to Tanir (Ptandoris ?) (4 hrs.) ;
whence it is 6 hrs. over the plateau
to Albistan, and 4} hrs. to Ynrpvs
(Arabissus).
(iv.) A bridle-path from Kemer
crosses the range to (ii.). :
(v.) The easiest road E. is that
round tho S. end of the range from
Kemer to Ydrpus fend Albistan (Rte.
95).
The country E. of tho Binboa D. is
a high bare plateau, cut dp by deep
ravines, but unrelieved by any ridges
or peaks. It is almost entirely
inhabited by Kurds, who are usually
very hospitable. The same may be
said of the Circassians, who hatfd
overflowed here from the Vxun Yailn'
(p. 267). More interesting than either
ate the Avshfers (Introduction)* who
were driven from the Uzun Yaila and
the Zamdnti vfelloy into Anti-TauruS
when the Circassians word settled in
the former district after the Crimean
war.
' t i
ROUTE 97.
kAlSARIYEH-ftHAKDlN— did.
hr*.
Tonumte 9
Ferakdin S
Kmlcreml Yalta. • . . 6
Sli . . . . . .19
This route posses the M Hittite”
monument at Ferakdin, and runs
through some of the wildest socnery
in the Taurus.
A bridle-path leads in 4} hrs.
through the gardens Of Talas (p. 52)
to the plateau, and then over rough
pound either by lstephana or Zm-
jirdere to a ruined Ichdn, 5600 ft.,
whence there is an easy rood by
YamaMi and Kumut to
Tomarsa (9 hrs.), alt. 4550 ft., a
large Artneniaii village, with monas-
tery, in a Cultivated plain on the road
from Kaisari.veh eid the Gee Bel to
Hajin (p. 272). We now cross fairly
level but rocky ground to Pusatli ,
Genmedi , and
Ferakdin, or Fraktin (6 lire., Turk.),
nit 4080 ft, on the rt. bank of tho
Zamanti 8a. In a ravine ) m. N.N.E.
of the village is a “ Hittite *' relief cut
on the rock in a sunken panel about
18 ft 10 in. long. The figures nro
3 ft. to 3 ft 4 in. nigh, and* with oiio
exception, in admirable condition.
The sculpture, in many respects the
most suggestive of the pre-Hellenio
monuments;' Consists of two scenes
obviously similar in character. “ Each
scene shows two figures, with an
object of peouliar shape between them :
in each the figure On the left is marked
by greater size os superior to tho
figure on .‘the right, and tho latter is
in each case represented ns holding
some object in the extended right
hand.” Tho view of Prof. Ramsay
T
[Turin/]
Digitized by L^ooQle
274
. Route W.—Bufaem—Mmlu*
and Mr. Hogarth is that the subject
in each case is a libation scene : the
deity is on the L, the strange object
in the middle must be an altar, and
the figure on the rt. is a priest or
priestess pouring a libation in honour
of the deity. A full description and
discussion of this interesting monu-
ment is given in Ramsay and Ho-
garth's Pre-HeUmic Monument* of
Cappadocia in the Becueil de$ travaux ,
vol. xiv.
[Ferakdin can be reached in 4 hrs.
from Everek (p. 53) ; or from Kaisari-
veh by an araba-road via Injesu and
lieveli Kara-hissar. There is an easy
road from Ferakdin, up the valley m
Vrniji, whence there are an araba-road
over the Gez Belto Skahr (p. 268) or
J/ajin. and a bridle-path by Kitktn to
Ftke (18 hrs.) and Sis (12 hrs.).]
One hr. below Ferakdin the Zam&nti
enters a deep gorge and the road turns
rt over low basaltic hills to Tathan
(4 lira. Armn.X whence a bridle-path
leads in 24 hrs. to Feke, passing
through grand soenery, and by the
Greek villages Farath (disused iron
mines), Avehar K., ana Ourunueh.
About 1} hrs. from Tashan the Zam-
anti is crossed by a wooden bridge,
3900 ft, where there is a break in the
gorge, aud the road, entering the
mountains, runs over a col., 6150 ft,
to
Endsressi Yaila(5 hrs.), alt 4700 ft,
a favourite yaila of the Sirkinti Tur-
komans and other nomads. Thenoe
there are two routes to the Oilician
plain ,* one by the Oeuv Dere ; the
other over an easy ooi, and then by
a very steep winding track down a
rock-slope, 1300 ft. high, to Takhta-
Iceupri (5 hrs.), alt 2310 ft Hero
there is a wooden bridge over the
Baghohe Su, which runs through a
magnificent gorge. After crossing
the Aerji Bel, 4590 ft, by a rough
path, we reach the Oeuk 8u, alt.
1200 ft, as : the Saris Su is here
called, in 4} hrs., and pass it by a
ford in summer and autumn, and a
bridge at other times. We then climb
another snqr, 2770 ft, and descend to
Horu-uthlar , a small village 2} hrs.
from
Bis (14 hrs., 1 p. 187). , ; ,
ROUTE 98.
ADANA — 8I8~MARA8H»
HRS.
SU (Sisium) . 12|
Kara-Bazfir . . . . 8
DunkaUt . . .17
Marasb (Qtrmanicia) . . s
From Adana to Bis (12^ hrs.) by
Rte. 65; the road then passes through
a gap in the hills to the great pluiii,
Chukur Ova, which is swampy in
plaoes. The Sempae Su is crossed by
a bridge and the SavrOn, by an easy
ford, opposite
Kars-Bas&r (8 hrs.), alt. 500 ft, on
the edge of the plain. The place is
unhealthy and almost deserted in
summer. There are the remains of
an early Christian monastery, a teese-
lated pavement in a red hut with
Christian dedication, (and several in-
scriptions. Here the road enters the
hills and, ascending through a richly
wooded district crosses a spur, 1750 ft.,
to the KaUh 8u, and another, 1850 ft,
to
Ajemlu (5 hrs.) on the Chokak Su.
Thence over a low hill to Andarin
Ova, a small plain near the Jihun, at
the N. edge of which is Old Andarin
(2 hrs.), alt 1000 ft Beyond the plain
there is a steep rooky ascent of over
2000 ft., and we then pass through a
wild mountain district jwith magnifi-
cent soenery. On either hand wooded
mountains rise range beyond range,
whilst here and there are grand views
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 99. — Dunlcalat—Baghche.
of Mt. Taurus on the N., and of tho
Ihddtd D. and other, peaks of the.
Oiaowr D. to the 8. From the highest
point there is a long descent round
the N. slopes of the BaUch D., and
then the Hajii 3d, 8800 ft. (fine view
E.), is crossed to , . \
Dunkalat (10 hrt). Thence the
descent continues over tho .spurs ot
the Yeniji Kaleh D. to tho mill at
the junction of the Karsttlu with the
JihOn, where the track is joined bj
the road from Geuksun (p. 271). The
ford by which the Karsulu is crossed
is often impassable and a drftour has
then to lx) made to a bridge about
5 m. higher up tho river. Below the
mill the Jihfln enters k gorge, only
r sable oh foot, between the Giaoti*
and tho Taurus. The river runs
in a oohfined bed, with many rapids,
between walls of rock, and the scenery
is very grand. Leaving Dunkalat
the road runs for 4 hrs. over undu-
lating ground, inhabited by Nejerlu
Kurds, to the stone bridge, 165 yds.
long, over the Jihfin. and thence over
the lower slopes of the AJchir D. to :
Xarash (8 hrs., p. 263>
ROUTE 99. ’
XDANA-Mlg«l8-MARA8H-gUROHI
— MALATlA.
MiaaU (Mnp*nUMtia) .
Onunieh . i . •
Uagbcbe
Mar ash (Girmanicia)
Biurilk . •
Parrel u . . ' .
Sorgbl 1
Malatla ( JftltUHe) .
»i»*.
6
11
T
14» *
8
12
84
14
This . route which traverses the
ranges of A menus and Taurus, and
jiasses through some One •scenery, is
the easiest from the Gilician plain to
Halatia(p. 256) and )£narput(p. 265).
' From Adana toi Missis (5 hrs.), by
Rte 66. ;Thence, either by the.xt.
hank of the Jihfin, passing under an
isolated hill, , on, wnioh stands ;iHow
Kaleh, to. the Yarznat ferry (horses
only) ; or by the L bank, crossing by
the bridge • at Missis, to YartUat
(4 hrs.), one of the villages of Nogni
Tatars who Were settled on'thO plain
after the Crimean war. Here are a
ootton factory belonging to. a French-
man, a decent kh&n, and many shops.
The road now lies over the plain
under Topral; Kaleh (p. 190) to Ot-
manieh (7 hrs.> and then, after run-
ning for about 3 hrs. at the foot of the
Oiaowr D. (rt.), crosses a spur, 1200 ft*
to the broad valley of the Baghcho 8tl
and \ • • s *
Baghchs (7 hrs.), alt i960 R:, the
chief town of the Bulanik Kaza. It
is a small place in the central ravine
of three that unite just below it to
form the main valley. Three routes
lead on to Marash «
The first (14} hrs.), • passable ‘by
arabas, cannot be used in sumider on
aocount of the flies and feverish
climate of the Valley between tbe
Giaour D. and the Kurt D. Ii
ascends the ravine to the 8.E. by a
fairly good rood, and in about 24 hrs.
roaches tho Ardaidi Bel, 3140 ft — a
broad eel between abrupt hills, pro-
bably the Amanian Oates. [A badly
kept araba-road, made by Abedin
Fasha in 1384, goes up to Hassan
Beyli (8 hrs.), leaving Baghche to
the.L, and, crossing the ridge to tho rt.
of Arslanli Bel, descends to the plain
between Kazan Ali and Zinjerli.J
Thenoe there is a steep stony descent
to Katan Alt (3} hrs.), sit 1745 ft ; a
■mall village in a ravine opening on
to tbe Arslanli Ons— part of an almost
continuous plain that extends from
Antioch to Marash (p. 268). In the
plain, about 1 hr. 8 of Kazan All, is
the mound, Zlnjorli Euyuk, Sarnala,
where tho Gtrmau excavations have
T 2
Digitized by L^ooQle
2fd Route 09.-
eipoficd a lufgo number of Assyrian,
“ Hitti te,” and old Semi tio mon aments ;
and extensive remains of 2 or 3
palaces. It was here that Esarhaddon
wintered between his Egyptian cam;
paigns, the plain being suited to his
cavalry. The main part of the
buildings on tho mound were erected
by a vassal of Tiglath Pileser.
[ Kazan All to Aintab (184 hre.).—
This forms part of the direct road from
Adana to the Euphrates. After crossing
the Arslanli Ova, the track runs oyer low
hills to the Keperdiz pva % in which are
several artificial njpunds, and whence
there' is ap easy road to B&zarjik (see
below). At Sergh'tky or Sakche (4 lirs. ) , oh
a broad terrace at the foot of flic hurt
D.y is a walled kopaky belonging hi a Bey,
in which are llittite sculptures. Follow-
ing the E. side of the plain, we roach in
inr. Xonak Ghoja, an ancient site, with
remarkable roca-hcwn chambers, a fine
spring, a largo Moslem cemetery, and
the tomb of llcsik-bash, noted in Moslem
legend. Six artificial mounds, ip somo
of which llittite sculptures havo liccn
found, are in sight, including tho large
One, on which stands Hancjl K. (Alevi
Kurds). 8oon after leaving Konak
Ghoja, we climb the Kurt D. by a steep,
stony path over bare limestone rocks,
and in 2 hrs. pass the summit, 8640 ft.,
beyond which ,the track improves.
Passing Sultan Oghlu (Jerid Turkoman)
we join the araba-rond from Marash to
Aintab at Beuyiik Amblar (p. ?87) t 1 hr.
before reaching Sam (7| hrs.), 1 m. 1. of
the road, with a good spring in which
nre sacred fish. Thence to Alatab (2 hrs.,
Ktc. 100).]
From Kazan Ali we travel up the
valley, and cross slightly broken,
rocky ground — the watershed between
the Orontes and the Jihfiu — to Bel
Bunar , “Spring of the pass,” and
Sarilar (4 lira.). Thence the road
lies between the Giaour D. (L), and
a large lake. Giaour Geul (rt.), to
d-Oghlu (2$ hrs.). li hrs. further
we pass the spring Geuv Bunar , and
strilcing the Ak Su follow its 1. bank
for 1 hr. to Altun Keupri, where wo
cross to the rt. bank. Thence over
the plain, fording tho Kara and
Erkenez streams, to Marash (5 hrs.,
Kte 02).
Bazarjttc.
The second route (13 hrs.)* litso
useable by arabaa, is usually followed
y caravans' from Alexandretts, in
summer, as it avoids the unhealthy
valley. It runs N. up the ravine,
and, except in a few plaoes, is easy
throughout. In 3 hrs. we cross tho
Hack Bely 3700 ft., and in auother
1} hrs. a second ridge, 3850 ft.,
wheuoe there is an easy descent to
el-Oghlu (8 hrs ), where the first route
is joined.
A third (12J hrs.) and more difficult
route, but much used in summer,
leaves the araba-road at the Hacli Bel,
and, passing through fine forest
scenery, crosses another ridge, 4550 ft.,
to Hovdu Yailasi (4J hrs.), a favourite
summer Resort. Theuoe a rough tracl^
runs ovor a third ridge, 4400 ft., to
tho plain (4$ hra) across which tho
way iios to Marash (3$ hrs.).
From Marash we follow tho Aintab
road (p. 287) for about 2J hrs., across
the Erkenez Su, and ovor the low
spurs of tho Kapuchin 1)., and thou
turn E. among low hills post Box
EuyuJi (low mound rt.) to the Ak Su.
Fording the river to tho 1. bank, we
cross the hills to
Basaijik(S hrs., Kurd), alt. 8000 ft.,
near which must havo been Catamuna
on the Germanicia-Samosata road.
Descending again to the Ak Su, and
fording to tho rt. hank, wo follow tho
river for 1 hr. and then cross tho
Vzun Yelish plateau to tho KeuiL Su
bridge (4 hrs.), beyond which tho
road is joined by bridl6-paths from
MaraBh, — one, in 10 hrs., via Najar.
S. of tho Najur D. ; tho other rid
Bash-dervish, and crossing tho ridgo
between Akbir D. and Najar D. A.
little further on we enter tho Geunuk
plain, 3000 ft., in which lio threo
lakes, Geunuk Geul t Atapli G. f and
Bath G. The plain is unhealthy in
July and August, when the horse-flies
and mosquitoes arc also troublesome.
There are numerous springs, tho
waters from which make the plain
marshy. Tho villages are on the
Digitized by ^.ooQle
277
Jlimte 99 .— Parrel* — Surgki.
hillside, a Tew I m ml red feet above
the lcvt-1 ol Uio plain.
(The bridlejmth from Manuk ft
Hrntr anti Sum -of td mu R. at the S. end
of the tinimik plain and, after emuing
the Ak Su by a ford, runs through Kiyn
Olm,n to Fetor** (3* hr*.), 3380 ft, A
Inrge village with vineyard* And a
spei ial Hint indnaivy. Thence a rocky
hill, 3500 ft., ia crooned to L'tmm Any*
(3 hr*.), whence there U An emay hot
r»N-kv road, passable by armlet*, rid
MaiuiuliUi, to
Beene. Syr. fhit-kc*na ( 3 | lira.), 25KW)
ft., a »oi\cd Moslem and niristian
village in a rocky ravine. The castle,
until taken by I imtfcr, 1400, was deemed
Impregnable. The road onward croeaca
the tienk Sn by a difficult ford near Ilar-
konak, and then rune over level ground
to fleweet (p. 268).]
Hooping to the N.W. sidi* of th©
(•etintik plain, we pais Akmrai, ford
the Ak su ngnin, and leaving Tnekli
to the L, ronrh Atapii (4 hr*. A a large
village famous for it* grape*. Thcnco
wo continue over tho plain and across
undulating ground to
Pavralt, or JWrer* (4 hr*. A alt.
3800 ft, ort the viUrsbcd Mwo«n
tho Mediterranean and tho Torvian
tlttlf. [A hridlc-|mth lends to Tut
and lit sue.] Wo now descend 1 100 ft
in an hr., and crossing tho rapid un-
fordalde river by a stone liridge, 100 ft
above it follow a confined valley
by a fairly good road to tho foot of a
steep rocky, zigxag ascent of 600 ft,
about 2 m. from
i Irksntk (4 hr*. A alt 4250 ft
[Tbcro is a rough bridle path to Tut
(5 lirsA aad thence a fair mad to
Bf»ne (4 hr*.) ] Beyond Erkcnck an
en*y ascent lends to a plateau, 5050 ft,
where tho track divides, one l>rnncli
going direct by rocky nmr nt and
drsccnt to a bridge over the f.cnk
Ku ; the other, keeping K., cnwace an
msy pass to tho heud waters of the
Geuk Su (trout A and then runs over
tho plain to
•nrghi (4) hr*. A alt 4500 ft Tlienoo
over the spurs of tlio K are past
Rtran-tAefcr (ruins of ancient city in
the plain 4 to. to LA to Kkmn Bum nr
(4 hrs-A whence there are two motes
to Malatia : a direct hut In • parts
rocky, path bv Guu^khd net; and a
longer but easier road which ileacemls
to the head waters of the 8n1Un 8n,
and follows tlie river down to tho
bridge (5 hr*A ***** tho cavalry
harracks at tl»e Sultan's farm, whence
it crosses the plain to
■alatta (5 bra., p. 256>
Digitized by ^.ooQle
( 278 )
SECTION III.
NORTHERN SYRIA-MESOfOTAMIA-PERSIA.
" NORTHERN SYRIA.
' Geography. — That portion of Syria lying N. pf Antioch and Aleppo, consists of
the Giaour Dagh, the Kurt I)agh. the depression between those ranges, and thip
plateau W. of the Euphrates. The Oiaour D ., anct Amynu * , px tends ffom the
valley of the Orontes, which parts it from the Ansariyeh Mts., on the S., to the
great gorge of the JihAn, which separates it from the Taurus range, on the N.
On the W. »l rises abruptly, whether from the sea or from the plains of Issue and
Cilicia ; on tbo E. it is bordered by a remarkable valley, — tlio direct continuation
of 'the depressions of the Jordjm, the Leontes, and the Orontes. The axis of the
range is almost perpendicular to that of the Taurus, and the gorge of the Jibuti
presents features of geological interest that have not yet been examined by a corn-
petent geologist. The GiaOur D.. though only 16 to 25 in, wide, and rarely more
than AOOO ft. high, is a formidable barrier between E. and W. It is crossed by
only two good passes, — the Bayhch s (p. 276), through which a road runs from tho
Cilician plaiu to Marasli and Aintab. and tho Beilun (p. 288), through which
roads run to Antioch and Aleppo. The other tracks across the mountains are
rough, difficult bridle-paths.
The valley to the K. of the Giaour D. is, in places, swampy in spring; and
from June to September it is very hot, unhealthy, and almost uninhabitable from
flies and mosquitoes. The soil, however, is very fertile, and numerous mounds
covering the remains of “Hittite” and other towns attest its former settlement
and cultivation. East of the valley rises the Kurt D . — a long unbroken limestone
ridge, with abrupt slopes and no well-defined peaks, which forms the western
extremity of the plateau that falls away EL to the Euphrates. At first the plateau
is almost bare rock, but, gradually, it assumes the character of rolling downs,
broken by rich valleys that are watered by fine streams. This last district is full
of artificial mounds, some of great size, that await the spade of the explorer.
History. — Northern Syria formed part of the Hittite empire or confederacy
which so long resisted the Pharaohs of Egypt and the Kings of Assyria. The
41 Hittite*” who belonged to the same race as the Accadians, and apparently came
from the Persian or Central Asian plateau, were barbarian nomads bent on
plunder. After spreading over all Syria, and most of A. Minor, they gradually
settled down forming small states, and, at one time, holding Lower Egypt. The
Hittite invasion was, in fact, very similar to those of the Mongols ana Seljfik
Turks many centuries later. During the wars between ELgypt and Assyria the
Hittites were constantly trampled upon by ono or the other country, and they
were almost annihilated by the kings of the second Nincvito empire. The in-
fluence of Egypt and Babylonia is very visible in Hittite art, and recent excava-
tions show that, in their public buildings, the Hittites copied from Nineveh the
system of brick walls lined with sculptured slabs. The Hittite script has not yet
teen read, but there is every reason to hope that bilingual inscriptions will be
found when the mounds are explored. After the fall of the Hittites, N. Syria,
when not split up into petty states, was in turn Assyrian, Persian, Greek, Roman,
Byzantine, Arab, Mongol, and Turk. At the commencement of the present cen-
tury the Giaour D. was in tho hands of a powerful Turkoman Pore Bey, Kuchuk
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Introduction. — Mesopotamia. 67 3
Ali Oghlu, who, by encouraging brigandage, destroyed all trade : and it was ruled
by members of his family until the Egyptian occupation of Cilicia in 1882, When
the Egyptians left, after governing the country flrtnly for 8 years, disorders again
broke out, and they did not cease until 1866, when the Dere Beys were reduced to
submission and their clans annihilated or forcibly settled in the Cilician plain.
The Psopls. — In the Giaour D. and the valley to the E. are Turkomans, Circas-
sians, and Armenians, — the last remarkable for their independent air and manly
bearing. The plateau is principally occupied by Turkomans and Arabs, who are
sharply separated by a line running W. from JerablQd on the Euphrates. There
are a few Circassian settlements, and in tho towns kre many Armenians. The
languages spoken are Turkish and Arabic.
The Climate, excepting in some localities, is good. The best seasons for travelling
are the late spring or early summer and the kutumn (Sept, to Nov.).
Carriage* run on the Alexandre tta-Aleppo road, out in other districts the
transport is by horse, mule, or camel. For outfit, see Introduction.
MESOPOTAMIA. ,
Geography. — Mesopotamia, the Arab Jesirt, derived its name,— a purely geogra-
phical expression,— from its nosition between the Euphrates and the Tigris. Its
N. limit was Mons Masius ( Karaje D .. and the Tar Abdin plateau) ; its southern
the Median wall which, a little 8. of // it, crossed from the Euphrates to the Tigris.
Here the higher portion of the plain ends in an old coast line, and the rich alluvial
plain of Babylonia begins. From the N. end, 1100 to 1160 ft above the sea, there
is a gradual fall of about 960 ft to the Median wall. The surface is flat except
where it is ^broken by the NirnrUd />., near Urfa , and the limestone ranges of
Abilul Azin and Sityar. Between theso ranges flows the Chaboras (KAatmr), which,
after having been swollen by the Mygdoums (JaglyagAa Sn) and other tributaries,
flows into tho Euphrates near Circesiom (Kiritsiyek). The district between the
Khabur and the Euphrates, watered by the Bilechas ( BelUe ) and its brandies, was
the Biblical Aram Nakaraim, and tho Selettcid Osrhoene . — a country of great
natural fertility, once thiokly populated and dotted with important towns, but
now almost abandoned to nomads and their flocks. South of J. Sinjar are grey
dreary flats, with a subsoil of gypsum and marl in which the streams have carved
out valleys that are sometimes brightened by a thick growth of tamarisk. Bitumen
is not uncommon, and here, and there are petroleum wdls. .
Babylonia— the country extendingf rom the Median wall to the Persian Gulf —
is an almost unbroken plain without a natural bill. It was formerly celebrated
for its great fertility, and was one of the earliest seats of civilisation. Numerous
canals intersected the space between the two rivers, and both drained and irrigated
the country ; but much of the S. part is now covered by shallow sheets of water,
with reeds and rushes, and swarming with buffaloes. The delta is increasing about
72 ft. per annum, but below the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates there is a
vast extent of country subject to almost perpetual inundation.
In the N. the Upper Mesopotamian plain extends E. of the Unis, and here,
between the Tigris and the Khaxr, at the foot of the mountains of Kurdistan was
the heart of the Assyrian Empire. ;
Communications. — Considerable interest attaches to the lines of communication
between the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf by the valleys of the Euphrates
and Tigris. The caravan routes are: (i.) Beirut — Damascus — Palmyra — Dcir —
Ana— Baghdad (Rtes. 102, 107): fallen into disuse since the Arab (Shaminar)
invasion In the 17th century., . (iu) Alexandrctta — Aleppo — Dcir — Baghdad (Rtes.
101, 102) ; little used since the Arab invasion, (lii.) Aleppo— Mesk inch— r
Baghdad. A small steamer usually ascends the Euphrates once a year to Bl cskineh.
(iv.) Alepi>o — Deir — Siqjar — Mosul (Rte. 102) : an important route when the
Peraian traffic, which now goes to the Caspian and Bashirs, passed through Mosul,
(v.) Alexandre tta — Aleppo — Birejik — Diarbekr— Mosul— Baghdad (Rtes. 101,
104). This route, which passes through an inhabited country, is now the most
frequented, though the longest. Before the Arab invasion the direct road from
Digitized by
Google
280
Introduction. — Mesopotamia x
Urfa to Mardin and Mogul (ltfcc. 101) was followed, (vi. ) Di&rbekr to Baghdad
by raft (Kte. 103) : much used for the transport of merchandise down stream,
(vii.) Baghdad to liasra (Utc. 109). By steamers of the Turkish and British
Companies.
The country through which these Koutes run is open, treeless, and sparsely
populated. Excepting a few villages on the I)e»r- Damascus rood, all the country
W. of the Euphrates to Daiuqscus nud Aleppo is desert. In tho Euphrates valley
from Bircjik to Ana the sedentary population is almost conlincd to Rakka and
Deir, the former villages and cultivation having been destroyed by tho Shammar
Arabs. Between Deir and Mosul tho only villages ore those iii J. Sin jar ; the
country to the N. and S. is in the hands of nomads. On the 1. bank of the
Tigris there are some half-dozen towns and a small sedentary population. It is
only below Ana and Baghdad that the population becomes more dense, and that
the towns show signs of increasing prosperity. The nomads, who occupy most of
the country, produce little but wPQl and live stock.
'IVo lines of railway have been suggested at different times ; one by the
Euphrates, tho other by the Tigris valley. The construction of either would be
difficult and costly ; and the population of the districts passed through is so small
that they would have to depend on through traffic, the produce of the Babylonian
delta, and the gradual development of the fertile lands now in the hands of the
nomads. Of the three suggested Mediterranean termini. Ayas, Alexandretta, nud
Sueidia, Alexandretta would probably be the best. On the Eu \pkrate* tine tho
difficulties would be the Giaour D. t which would have to be crossed by the Reilan
Pass (1980 ft.), or the Baghchc Pass (8140 ft.) ; the hard limestone district S. of the
Kurt D., about 20 m. wide ; and the large number of dry valleys (trtulies) falling
to the Euphrates. On the Tiyri* line the difficulties and cost would be greater,
aud the most expensive portion would commence after reuching the Euphrates.
Between Birejik and Urfa there lies a high limestone plateau cut up by deep ravines,
and the approach to Urfa is most difficult ; between Urfa and Suverek there is a
range of hills with large valleys and rugged ravines; between Surorck and
Diarbckr is the Karaja D. ; and between Diarbekr and Mnrdin there is a very
rugged limestone tract, deeply intersected by ravines with scarped sides. From
Mardin to Mosul and thence to Baghdad by the rt. bank of the Tigris the country is
easy, but several streams would have to be bridged. The easiest lino would be to
cross the Euphrates lust S. of Membij, and thence by Harran and Ras el-Ain to
Mosul j but this would be some distance S. of the inhabited districts.
Navigation. — Owing to the disappearance of the riverain population { the banks
of the Euphrates are no longer kept in order, and the river, neglected in its lower
course, has found new outlets, and spread out into wide marshes. Above Ana
navigation is impeded by numerous rocks, rapids, and remains of ancient dams.
Once, and occasionally twice a year, during flood time (April to August), a small
Turkish steamer ascends as far as Mcskinch, but more with the object of con-
trolling the riverain tribes than for purposes of commerce. A Turkish Company
has lnscn projected to navigate the Tigris from Baghdad to Mosul, but nothing has
yet boen done. The principal obstacles are the great dam below Mosul, and the
rapids between it and Tekrit. The current is very strong, and steamers of light
draught and great power would be required to ensure success. It is doubtful,
however, whether a line would pay in tho present state of the country.
Histery.—Thc early history of Mesopotamia is that of constant struggles for
supremacy between Assyria and Babylonia. In n.c. 401 Cyrus and the Greeks
crossed the Euphrates by a ford at Thapsacus, near Itai and marched down the
1. bank to the river Araxes, the later Chaboras ( Khahur ). Thence, after 6 days
march over level desert, they reached Corsotc, and, in 13 more, Pylac, on the edge
of the alluvial plain of Babylonia. After the battle of Cunaxn, perhaps at Tell
Kunise, about 17 m, from Fcluja. the Greeks crossed the Tigris at Sittace, pro-
bably a little below Baghdad. They then marched up the 1. bank, passing the
river PhyscusfA^Ai' AJhcm ?), Parysatls, and Coenae (perhaps Kaleh Shcrgat, on
the rt. bank), before reaching the Zab t where their leaders wore treacherously
seized by the Persians (p. 194).
Mesopotamia passed fo Alexander after the battle of Arbelp (n,c. 831), agd op
Digitized by ^ooole
Introduction . — Mesopotamia.
281
his death fell to Seleucus. In a.d. 115 it was conquered by Trajan, and there was
almost constant war between the Romans and Persians until Jovian surrendered
the greater part of the country to Persia (a.d. 863)., The Roman province then
constituted extended as far S. as Dara, and was divided in(o two parts, Mesopo-
tamia with capital at Amid ( Diarbekr ), and OsrhoCrie with capital at Edessa
(Ur fa). After a pause war again broke out between the Byzantines and the
Persians and continued infconmttcntlv until the whole country fell into the hands
of the Arabs (685-40), at a result of the battle of Kadisia (685; and the conquest of
Syria. Mesopotamia, excepting where it was desert, was then thickly populated,
well cultivated, and flourishing, and, for a time, little change was apparent ; bnL
the agriculturists being gradually driven from their lands by the constant flow of
nomads from Arabia, the great irrigation works werfl neglected, and its prosperity
slowly but surely declined.
Under tho early Rholifs (635-661), and the Amaw’i Khalifa of Damascus (661-
750), Arab thought and feeling were supreme ; but, after the advent of the Abba rider
to power, and the foundation of Baghdad, that city and W. Persia becamo the
centre of Islhm, and Persian civilisation and Persian manners and customs
pret'ailed. El-Mansflr (754-75). the founder pf Baghdad, who distrusted his Arab
troops, formed a body-guard of Turks and Persians ; and this policy was extended
by cl-Motasim (888-42), who raised an army of mercenaries from the same source.
After the death of the latter the Khalifa feu more and. more under the influence of
their body-guards and moires du palais, and independent dynasties arose in Persia,
8yria, and K. Mesopotamia. In 945 the Buyida, who had established themselves
in Persia, entered Baghdad, and from that date the Khalifa, until their extinction
by the Mongols (1258), merely held a Court first under the Buy id* and then under
the Scljflks. The Syrian and Mesopotamian dynasties were the ,tra5 Uamddnidr
of Mosul (929-991) and Aleppo (944-1003) ; the Arab Mtrtla sids of Aleppo (1023-
79) ; the Arab Okailids of Mosul (996-1096) ; the /Curd Mervanids of Diarbekr
(99(M096), and the Arab Mazyadids of Ilillah (1012-50).
In 1055 tho BafyOks ontorod Baghdad, replnccu the lhiyids, and reduced the
smaller states to submission. Tho Seljflk Empire was a military power, and every
Seljflk monarch had a following of Mendtks, or slaves who filled the chief offices
of court and camp, and who, when their masters were weak, became the guardians
(Ata-begs) of their youthful heirs. When, on the death of Melik Shah (1092), the
power of tho Great SeljQks declined, dynasties were fonnded in several places
within the empire by members of the Seljflk family and by the Atabegs. Amongst
these dynasties were the Selj&ks of Syria (1094-1117) i the Sef/dks qfel-Jrak and
Kurdistan (1117-1194); the Bunds of Damascus (1108-54); the Zengids of
Mesopotamia and Syria (1127-50), two of whom, Zengi and Bur-cd-din, wore
famous during the wars of the Crusades ; the Begtiginids of Arbela (1144-1282) :
and the Ortakids of Diarbekr (1101-1812), of whom Bukman and el-Ghazi
distinguished themselves in the wars against the Latin princes of Syria and
Palestine. , All these petty states were conquered by the Mongols who, in 1235-86,
Overran Mesopotamia and plnndered Diarbekr and Arbela ; in 1258 took Baghdad
and put the Khalif to death ; and in 1260 captured Aleppo and occupied
N. Syria.
The decay of the court try, which had commenced under the Khalifs, became
more rapid under the SeljQks and Mongols. A long succession of nomad tribes
wandering over the rich country in search of fresh pastures for their horses and
sheep, caring nothing for town life, and. taking no thought for the morrow,
destroyed Agriculture, and forced the cultivators either to become nomads them -
selves or to retire to tho towns and the mountains. The Mongols were followed
by Timfir, Who entered Baghdad in 1898 ; ravaged N. Mesopotamia: took Mosul,
Mnrdiu, ami Diarl>ekr ; and, iti 1 101, captured and burned Aleppo. The wholesale
ravages and ruthless massacres of Timfir completed the ruin of the country, which
was practically abandoned to the nomads. The remnant of the rriginal population,
driven into the mountains, is now represented by the sedentary and nomad
Nestorian*.
During the reign of Selim 1. (1512-20) the Osaaalistook l>larl*ckr, Nisi bin, and
that of Suleiman I. (1520-66) they captured Baghdad. But
Jezire ; and during
IN M City qf H|o Khalifs
wap retail eq by the l^rsinns ? gnd was not finally adde#
Digitized by i^ooQle
282 Introduction ! — Mesopotamia .
to tho Osmauli Empire until it was reconquered in 1688 by Murad IV. Purina the
reign of Muhammad IV. (1649-87) the Shammar Arub*, migrating from Nejd,
took Tadmor and destroyed the last vestiges of civilisation on the rt. bank of too
Euphrates. . About 20 years later the Shammar, beipg driven across the Euphrates
by ,the advance of the Anazeh ArabL spread over Mesopotamia an<l, eventually
crossing the Tigris, raided up to the Persian frontier, and .made the fowndon the
Tigris, excepting Mosul and Baghdad, tributary. The caravan routes were closed,
and the cquntry remained in the hands of the Arabs pntil (he Turkish Government
reasserted its authority in the Euphrates and Tigris valleys after the Crimead war.
Various points have since been occupied in the desert, and the power of the Araq
tribes has been seriously checkedl jf not broken. But large sections of thq
Anazeh and Shammar are still as independent of the Sultan as the day when they
first appeared within his borders, while their ancient 'character and yray of life
remain unchanged.
The People.— In the northern districts there are Kurds, Turkomans, Nestoriaris;
Choldaeans, Yezidis. &c., and in the southern Persians and Sabaeans; but tho
majority of tho population is Arab, and the language spoken is Arabic. * Some of
the Arab tribes are sedentary and pastoral, but most of them are nomads changing
their pasture grounds with the seasons. The most important are : (I.) the Shammer,
between the Tigris and Euphrates, who are pure Bcdawin, and number about
60,000 souls. Part of them have submitted to gqvernment and part retain theit
independence. Allied or tributary to the Shammar are the Zoba in S. Meso-
potamia ; the pastoral Jladdadtn to the N t of the Sinjar hills ; the 7af, a pure
Bedawi tribe which settled in N. Mesopotamia soon after the Arab conquest, and
was powerful until conquered by the Shammar ; the G Ae*, a warlike tribe S. of
Urfa, but not of pure Arab blood : and the rich fellahin tribes, Jibut i , Ajuari] and
Baagara on the Tigris, where they pasture large herds of buffaloes and cattle',
(if.) The Auaseh, W. of the Euphrates, towards Damascus and Aleppo, who pre
pure Bedawin,’ and number about 120,000 souls. Allied or tributary to them are
the Afo&li, E. of Hama, whose sheikhs claim descent from one of the Khalifa; thq
pastoral Weldi, on the Euphrates below Membij ; the Afudli , a cattle-breeding
tribe inhabiting the jungles of the Euphrates, near Rak‘ka; and the Abu Serail
Abu Kami s, ana Delim , some of thdm fellahin. on the rk bank of the Euphrates!
(iii.) The Xuntafik. about 82,000, partly. Bedawi and partly fellah, inhabit Irak and
the rt. baiik of the Euphrates below ‘ Hillah. The tribe was settled down by
Midhat Pasha and now cultivates the alluvial plain and is rich, and prosperous.
Ita Sheikh is Mutepssrif of the Muntahk Sanjak (see Bte. 109). (iv.l The Baal
I4m, a pure Bedawi tribe, partly turned fellah, between the Tigris and the Persian
frontier. They are Shjas, and number about 16,000 souls, (v.) The Xadan^
Albu Muhammad, Ac., inhabiting Irak and the lower Tigris valley. ' ,>
Olimats, to . — In winter and early spring the climate is good and healthy : the N.
winds in Upper Mesopotamia are, however, very pold. • In summer and autupin it
is very hot, and most of the houses in the towns have terdabs, or underground
chambers, to which the people retire during the heat of the day. In the southern
districts the summer climate is feverish and unhealthy. The best season for
travelling is from November tp March.
Outfit, *o.— Tents should be carried, as the aocommodation, where it exists, is
bad, , In certain districts camel transport is preferable. Sport — The lion is found
as far N« *• the Khabur, but is more common in the southern districts. The wild
ass is now very rare. Gazelle and wolf are common in tho desert ; and the jungle
on the banks of the riyers abounds with wild boar, &c.
Books. — Chesney, 4 Narrative of the Euphrates Expedition * ; Ainsworth, 4 Per-
sonal Narrative of the Euphrates Expedition * : Layard, 4 Nineveh, 1 4 Early
Adventures’; Encyc. Brit. Art. 4 Mesopotamia ’ ; Lady Anne Blunt, 4 Bedouin
Tribes of the Euphrates ' ; Loftus, 4 Chalaaea and Susiona * ; Stanley Lane -Poole,
4 Mohammedan Dynasties ’ ; Van Dyck, 4 History of the Arabs and their Liter**
ture' ; Bertiu, 4 Populations of the Fatherland of Abraham.’
Digitized by L^ooQle
Introduction .- -Pcrma. 283
PERSIA.
Oaography. — Persia f occupies the W: and larger hall of the great Iranian plateau
which lies between tne valleys of the Tigris and the Indus. On the N>W. the
district of Azerbijan is connected with the Armenian highlands, of which it forms
a natural continuation ; and on the W; and S.W. the plateau breaks down to the
vallev of the Tigris and the Persian Gulf, in a succession of mountain ranges
which lie N.W. and S.E., and are broken here and there by deserts and valleys.
On the plateau there is no grand scenery ; the characteristics are wide arid plains,
bleak grey or white hills, and burning deserts, with ntarshy districts in the 8. On
the N. and W. borders, however, where the peaks rise to a considerable altitude,
and mountain streams run through deep valleys, there is no lack of fine romantic
scenery. This is specially the case in Persian Kurdistan, and in Luristan through
which flow the Lesser Zab, the Diala, the Kerkhah, the Dizful, and the Karun.
In these districts the redds are rocky and bad, often running through tony#, or
narrow deflies encumbered by huge boulders, or climbing and descending by steep
rock-staircases.
History— The complicated histofy of Persia would exceed the limits of a Hand-
book, but the following notes may be of use to the traveller. The Aehasmoaiaa
Dynasty commenced with CWtit (b.c. 659-80), who defeated Croesus and conquered
A. Minor ; he was followed by, amongst others, Darius (n .c. 621-485), Xerxes I.
(ii.c. 485-464), and vlrtdxehcts II. (B.c. 404-858), who defeated the Greeks at
Cunaxa. The dynasty ended with Darius III., who was Anally defeated by
Alexander at the battle of Arbela or Gauganiela (b.c. 881). * The earliest capital
of the Achaemenians was Pasaigadae where Cyrus was buried' (p. 888) ; the later
capitals were Persepolis, Gabae, Ecbatana, Susa, and Babylon. On the death of
Alexander Persia fell to Bdeaous (b.c. 812-280) : but the Seleucid kingdom soon
began to break upland in B.c. 256 Arsaces established a native dynasty in Parthia.
As the powers of the Seleuddae decreased that of the Parthlaas increased, and in
n.c. 147, Mithridaies , after taking the Seleucid capital,. Seleucia, seated himself
on the throne of Peroi*. The long wars of the Parthians with the Romans, and
the effectual resistance they offered to the. advance of the Roman arms, is well
known. Orodes I. (b.c. 67-87) overthrew Crassus (B.c. 58) at Carrhae, now Ifarran .
Subsequently, under Trajah and Antoninus, the Romans gained many successes in
Mesopotamia. In a.d. 2ll, Ardeshir 7. (a.i>. 211-41) put an end to the house
of Areaces, and established the ,
■' Dynasty. — The Sassanians, who W&re Persians and orthodox Zoroas-
trians, had their nominal capital at Istakhr (Persepolis), and their real capital at
the Arsacid Ctesiphon. They were great builders, and Succeeded in developing a
style of architecture. which seems to form a connecting link between Assyrian and
Babylonian architecture; on the one hand and Byzantine work on tne other.
Amongst the most interesting Bassanian remains are those at Firuz-abad, Ser-
bistan, Ctesiphon, el-Hadhr, mid Diarbekr ; there are also bas-reliefs at Persepolis,
Tak-i-bostan, Shapur, Ac. The Sassanians were engaged in almost constant war
With Rome and Byzantium. In a.d. 260 Shapur /., Sapor (a.d. 241-78) defeated
Valerian and made him prisoner, and tfarseh (294-808) defeated Galerins. On
the other hand Severus took Ctesiphon, and is said to have Carried off 100,000
prisoners. OB the adoption of Christianity bv Rome, Shapur II. (810-79) com-
menced a persecution of the Christians, and declared war against Rome ; he
defeated Constantins, and on the death of Julian (868) concluded peace with
Jovian. In the later wars Kkusru II., Parliz (590-628), advanced to the shores of
the Bosporus, but was compelled to retire by HeracliuS, who made a counterattack
6n Persia.
The Sassaoian dynasty was overthrown by the Arabs Who, after defeating the
Persians at Bowaib and Kadisfa (a.d. 686), won the (( victory of victories" at
Nihavend (642). As the power of the Khalifs declined there was a Persian
f The official title of the Persian kingdom is /run. The name Persia comes (tom l*arsa,
now rare or Kara.
Digitized by L^ooQle
284 In troduction . —Persiq,
revival against Arab supremacy, and several dynasties arose in Persia and Trans-
oxiana. The most prominent of these were the Buyid Dynasties of S. Persia and
cl-lrak. The Buyids, who wero Shias, arid claimed to be of Sassanian origin,
took Baghdad in 945, and ruled in the name of the Khalifa until the great inroad
of tho Seljuk Turks. ' Tho Seljuk Empire (1037-1157) attained its greatest pros-
perity in tue reign of Melik-Shah (1072-08), who patronised letters and science,
und established medresse^ in several towns. Tlio “ Great Seljuks ” wero succeeded
by the Bhahs of Khoresm, who were overthrown by the Mongols, and whose dynasty
came to an end with the death of Jelal-ed-dtn (1281). On the death of Mongu,
the Great Khan of the Mongols (1257), his brother Hulagu founded the Persian
Dynasty of tho tl-kh&ns, t.e. provincial kh&ns. This dynasty came to an end about
1319, and the country was in a state of anarchy when Timfir appeared and swept
the smaller dynasties away (1880-95). The country was ruled by Timuridcs and
Turkomans ( Ah and Kara Koyunlu) until 1499, when the Sefavi Dynasty (1499-
1730) was founded by Ismail J. The Sefavis, who took their name from Shcikli
Sufi, a lineal descendant of the 7th Imam, were national monarchs with the faults
and failings peculiar to Persians. Ismail f. (1499-1524) was defeated by Selim.L,
and in the reign of Sultan Suleiman I. tho Turkish boundary was extended to
Tabriz ; but these disasters wero retrieved by Shah Abbas (1580-1628), the founder
of Isfuh&u, and tho most distinguished of the Sefavi monarchs. In 1721 tho
Afghan, invaded tho country, plundering the towns and massacring the inhabitants.
The Afghans were expelled by Nadir Shah, a robber chieftain famous for his
valour, who mounted toe throne in 1736, invaded India, and plundered Delhi. A
period of anarchy followed the death of Nadir Shah (1747), duriug which Karim
Khan Zend , a pure Persian, established the Zend Dynasty (1759-85) at Shiraz. In
•1785 the hereditary chief of tho Kajars, who lived in Mozandoran, fought his way
to the throne and founded tho oxisting Kajar Dynasty.
, . . . . i . . ■ •
The People. — Persia is peopled by men of ' various races, many of them tho
remnants of migrations from tho K. and W. They are of two classes— the dwellers
in towns and villages (Shahr or Dch-Nishins), and dwellers in tents (SaAra
Nish in or Iliyaif, i.f. nomads), ^ho constitute about one-fourth of the population. In
the N. are men of Turkish race who speAk Turkish, and in the S. Persians, many
of Mongol extraction, who Bpcak Persian. Ip Azcrbijnn, on the N.W., arc Nes-
torians, Armenians, and Kurds ; in the hill country on tho \V. are Kurds and Lurs ;
and oil tho alluvial plain, bordering the Sliatt cl-Arab and the Persian Gull, arc
Arabs who speak Arabic only.
The Lurs are considered by De Bode to be the kernel of the original Zend (tho
language of tho Avcsta) speaking race, settled in the mountains of Luristan from
time immemorial, before tho country was overrun by Turks, Mongols, and Tatars
from the E. and Arabs from the W. They occupy the districts of Lur-i-fcuchuL
to the W\, and Lur-i-Buzurg to the E. pf the Di^ful river. In the former are the
Feili Lurs , who have a bad reputation for lawlessness, and who are divided into
Bisk Kuh and Pusht-i-Kuh , each including several tribes. They are not strict
Moslems, and some of the tribes, near Karmanshali, are Ali Ilahis, and have a
Jewish cast of feature. Lur-i-Buzurg is occupied by Bakhtiari, Kuhgchlu, and
Manmscuni Lurs. The Bakhliaris , who Bpeak a dialect of Persian, are divided
into Chahur Jaduj, living between Ilizful and Behbelian, aud Haft fMng, to the N.
und N.K. They acknowledge the authority of au ll-khun, who is subject to tho
Prince Governor of Isfahan, and they are noted for their joyous nature and manly
freedom. The Kuhgehlu ore hardy wiry mountaineers living bctwocu Behbelian
und Yezdikhast. The Mamasvnni, who occupy JShulistan, have features of the old
Persian type^ and wear the tall brown felt hat of the ancient Persians. The loirs
have their winter (yarmsir) and summer ( sardsir ) quarters to which they periodi-
cally migrate. They are a light-hearted, joyous )>eople, and their predatory hgbits
would disappear under a firm, just rule.
On the alluvial plain K. of tho Karuu arc tho Ku'b Arab.*, numbering about
68,000 mcu. They arc Shias and Persianiscd. On tho Dizful river are the
Ali Kathir Arabs . The / liydls on tho plateau are chiclly of f^rqign origin, (md
their li(?s in ‘heir sheep, gqqts, donkeys,
Digitized by
Google
28 S
Introduction.^— Persia.
fteliftoti.^Willt Some exceptions the Moslems in Persia Are ShidA, who dd riot
acknowledge the throe first. direct (ranhedi) Khalifa, — Aba Bekr, Omari had
Osman, — as legitimate successors of Muhammad, and only acknowledge the twelve
Im&ms. t These Im&ms Ate i Alt , the 4th '* rasbedi ” Khalif, who was murdered
and buried at Meshed Ali • Hainan, poisoned and brined at Medina: Hunnein y
murdered and buried at Kerbela: Ali (Zein el- Abidin), Muhammad (el-Bakir),
and JcCnfar (es-Sadik), poisoned And buried at Medina; Mnna (el-KSxim),
poisoned and buried at Kazimln ; Ali (er-Kiza), buried at Meshed Ali in Khorasan j
Muhammad (el-Jawad), buried at Kazimin ; Ali (en-Nngi) buried at Samara;
Hannan (el-Askari), buried at Kazimin ; and Muhammad (el-Mahdi), who dis-
appeared in tlie “ serdtib " of his house at Samara, and is to reappear with Christ
nt the end of the world.
After prayer the chief religious duty of a Shia ia pilgrimage to the Holy Places
whete the Im&ms are buried. This pilgrimage is ouligatoiy and confers the title
of Hajji. The first ten days of Muharrem are devoted by Shuts, in all parts of the
world, to a representation of the tragic scenes that preceded and followed the
battle of Kerbela. Thev wear mourning for Hussein from the 1st Muharrem to
the 20th Sefer (50 days) ; and during the nine first days assemble morning and
evening to read one of the ten chapters in which the events are told. Notes on
the Holy Places and pilgrimages will be found in JUe. 10C.
The All llahi faith bears traces of Judaism combined with Sabaeaij, Christian,
and Moslem legends. The Ali Ilahis believe in a series of successive incarnations
of the Godhead amounting to 1001. All the incarnations are regarded as one and
the same person, the, bodily fonp of the divine manifestation being alone changed ;
but the most perfect development is supposed to have taken placo in tbe persons or
Benjamin, David, and Ali.
Glimate.— In winter it is intensely cold on the plateau, especially in Azerbijan
and tbe northern districts, and the snow lies deep in the mountains and on some
of the plains. In summer it is very hot, and all travelling is done by night. Tho
best seasons for travelling are from October to January and March to May.
Travelling.— There are two methods of travelling: (i.) by caravan ; (ii.) by
chapar . The first necessitates the purchase of tents and equipment, and the
hire of riding and baggage animals, and of servants. It, however, enables the
traveller to diverge from the beaten tracks and explore.
Chapar riding, t.e. by Government post, is only possible on the post-roads. The
traveller carries his baggage on horseback with mm ; sleeps in chapar-khtinehn or
I K>st-houses, which occur at regular intervals along the route ; carries his food or
>uys it on the way ; pays a fixed tariff for horses and accommodation ; diverges
not one inch from the main track ; and travels os fast as his horse nnd strength
will permit. »
Tho postal unites arc: Julfa— Tabriz. Krzcrftm— Tabriz— Kosvin — Tehran.
Tehrfin— Homodan — Baghdad. Tehrdn — Isfahan— Shiraz — Bushire. Isfahan —
Yezd — Karman — Bandar Abbas. Tehrftu— Meshed. Tchr&n— Astrabad.
Cost . — The charge for post horses is 1 kran (7 d.) per farsakh (8$-4 in.) for each
horse. The minimum number required is three. One for the traveller, one for a
native servant, and one for the chapar-shagird ' or post-boy who takes the animals
bock. The charge for each stage must be paid in advance to the chaparchl of the
chapa r-hhuneh , where fresh animals are engaged. The post-boy is usually given
a kran for an ordinary stage and two for a long one. At the chapur-lhdneh water,
firewood, and possibly milk and eggs can be obtained ; other provisions must be
carried or bought at the villages, it is usual to give the post-master 2 to 4 krans,
according to service rendered. A few hundred krans^ in one and two kran pieces,
should be carried in bags in tho rider’s holsters for disbursements. A tezkere, or
order for post-horses, is necessary, and can be obtained at a post-house.
^oggage . — Two Gladstone bags, 22 in. by 14 in., are best; tnesc should be pocked
so as to be of equal weight, placed in native saddle bags {hkunin\ and thrown
over the back of the post-boy’s horse. A second pair of soadle-bags for cooking
apparatus, Ac., can be thrown over the bock of the native servant's horse, and
bundles of mgs, coats, and bedding can be added to both horses. On the tra-
veller's horse should be carried flask, money, toilette necessaries, pistols, books, Ac.
Digitized by Tooele
£86 Introduction.— Persia,
For saddlery, kit, Sec*, see General Introduction ; the following \yill be found
useful in Persia. Persian bit and bridle. Russian top boots two sizes too luge
for the foot. Goloshes for visits to grandees. A black frock coat if visits are
contemplated to royal personages, governors, or ministers. A double Terai hat.
In intense cold, the Persian goat-hair cloak. A big canvas bag, 7 ft. by 4 ft.,
with an opening that can be buttoned up, to be filled with chopped straw ^kah)
as a couch, A Persian quilt ( rezai ). A couple of light curtains and nails to
keep out the draught in tho post-houses. Medicines for fever, diarrhoea, and
dysentery. Am* are not necessary except for sport. If travelling by caravan in
little visited places the traveller should have a stock of presents — binoculars, silks,
cutlery, silver cigarette-holders, arms. Ac. The notes on travelling are from
( Persia and the Persian Question,’ by the Hon. G. Curzon.
Sport- — In the mountain districts there are ibex, mountain sheep, bear, deer,
wolves, Ac. ; in the south the maneless lion is found ; and in other places th<» wild
boar, hyaena, Ac'.' Francolin, partridges, and wild fowl are plentiful.
Antiquities. — The most interesting early ruins are at Persepolis, Pasargadae, and
Susa : rock-sculptures at Behistan, Tak-i-Bostan, Naksh-i- Rustam, Shapur. and
Mai- Amir ; Sassanian ruins at Firuz-abad, Serbistan, Ac. ; and Mosques, palaces,
and tombs of later dynasties at Isfahan, KQm_ Rhey, Shiraz, Tabriz, Ac. Modern
Persian architecture can best be studied at Tenrfin,
Books, Ao.— Curzon, 1 Persia and the Persian Question ’ ; Layard, * Early
Adventures’; Bishop, ‘ Journeys in Persia and {Curdistan * : Dieulafoy,
‘ L’Acropole de Suse ’ ; Thiclmann, 1 Caucasus, Persia, and Turkey ’ ; Encyc.
Brit. Art., ‘Persia.’
Digitized by ^.ooole
Souie 100. — KilU* — Ainldb,
287
v
routes;
ItOUTE loo.
ALEXANDRtTTA ” K ILLIS - AINTAB —
6UVE RCK — D I A RBEK R.
mm.
*1*
f
ia
8*
m
n»
18
’ ReramnHs Khln, by IU*. 101
Kfllis (OiUsa) , ... ..
, AlnUb . . , . .
Rflm Kaleh ; ' . » * , '
Kantara . ; ' i j .
Suverek . , . .
DUrbekr . . ;
The Cdfriago-road to Aleppo (Rte.
101) is followed to Beravkuua Khdn
(21} hrs.), where a bridle-path terns
1. to the fbrtUe district 6t Kuima and
Atop. Here the drabo-rood, which
goes round by Sajaras (p. 289), is
joined end followed tq , '
K111U, b Uita (G hr*.), fell. 2080 ft.,
a well-built towh in a fertile valley at
the foot of the Kiirt t>. It is famous
for its blivet? and about One-third of
the population' is Arinehiah. The
road now lies over stony undulations,
and through cultivated valleys, paqs-
ipg, in 5 hrs. XJiena> a few huts on a
mound, mid,, about 5 hrs. further,
Gusel-nissdr. f
Ain tab, Armn. AMapk (12 hrs.),
alt. 8600 ft., the seat of a kaimakam,
is a well-built town with paved streets
and inany two-storied houses in the
centre, of a vSry fertile but treeless
district. . Water is iopplied by an
ancient aquoduct, and that ona,tho
ruins of a oastle above the town ate
the Only antiquities. At .DefeJL*
hrs. N*W., is the rite of Dotfc^s., Thd
baxdn are good, and the place •»
noted for its pekmes and striped cotton
cloths. There are several khans.
Ophthalmia and the “Aleppo button *'
( Hehbd e$-$inni) are common, but the
latter docs not attaok persons, living
on the heights abovo tiio town. The
population ia about 45,000, including
15,000 Armenians. There are a rich
and flourishing Protestant community,
of whioh a small body is Episcopa-
lian, who possess a , fine Unfinished
church, largely built With money sup-
plied, frOra, England, — a caricature of
the Royal arms Is over the door ; abd
a R. C. community, with Franciscan
monastery.'
Aintab is one* of the most irapprtabt
centres of American missionary and.
educational work in Asiatic Turkey.
Within the town there is an excellent
girls* school, conducted by American
ladies, and on a height above there
ore a mission hospital And other
buildings. On rising ground over-
looking the breed valley is Central
Turkey College. The original build-
ing was destroyed by fire in January.
1891, but has.sipoe been rebuilt, ana
contains library, laboratory, dormi-
tories, Ac. The college course of 4
years inoludes a sound geheral educa-
tion and instruction in Turkish, old
and modern Armenian, and English.
The fee for boarders including tuition
is ; £T.li: for tuition only £T.l} per
annum. A medical School is attached
to the college, foi’ which tbb fee is
£T.9 per annum ; but difficulties have
arisen which menace its continuance.
[i. Aintab to Marask (l6 hr*.). The
araba- road leaves the route to Kazan
Ali (p. 276) at Be*y*k Arablar (6 hrs.),
*n<l crosses the Ihsvrcnd pass by Drl-
jilik to liaxntjik (6 hrs.), whence Rte.
99 is followed to KatasIi (8 hrs.. Rte. 92).
ii. Aintab to Birqik. (11 hrs.). A
good road runs through on interesting
district to Vfarft (8 hrs.), celebrated for
its olives, and as the place where the
Turkish Army, to which Von Moltke was
Digitized by i^ooQle
288
Hotlt<! 101 . — Mum-kaleh — Beilhn.
attached, WAS defeated by Ibrubim
Pasha, on the 24 June, 1839. Birtjik
(8 hrs.).]
Leaving' Aintab we cross undu-
lating ground with occasional culti-
vation (vineyards, pistachio, and
olive groves), and pass through Urul t
anct ArulU (artificial mound), to
Khtum (7 hrs.), where one road leads,
in 5 hrs., to the ferry over tho
Euphrates to Khalfat (Rte. 91), on
the 1. bank, and another to
Rdm-kaleh, Armn. Hrhomgla (8£
hrs.), on the rt. bank. The town is
built on a cliff at the junction of the
Merximan Chai with the Euphrates,
and there are the remains of a castle,
and a few other ruins. It is now
noted for its pistachio nuts. Hrhomgla
was taken by Baldwiu, Count of
Edessa, in 11 1G ; and was purchased,
from Jopolyn’s son, by tho Arraonian
Patriarch, Gregory 111., in 1180. It
was the residence of the Patriarchs
from that time till 1298, whoa it was
taken by the Egyptians, who carried
off the Patriarch Btoplion IV. to Cairo,
where he died. *
After orossing the ferry to tho L
bank we sodn join Rte. 91, and follow
it to Narxaid (7 hrs.), and Kaniara
(7J hrs. ; ferry to Samsat, p. 258).
Beyond Kantara the road follows tho
gradually narrowing valley for 5| hrs.
to Kothun (ferry), and 1} hrs. beyond
that place leaves the Euphrates, and
crosses the plain to Haxhtn (7} 1}M*)»
alt. 1600 ft., a village in a ravine With
a few trees and vineyards/ Thence
we pass through a fertile, but sparsely
]>opulated district to Shinar , Fig,
Muhmuliin (3{ hrs.), where wo join
the cfoiMsJe (ltto. 101) from Urfa to
8nversk (GJ hrs.) and
Diarbekr (18 lira., Rte. 93).
ROUTE 101.
ALEXANDRETTA— ALEPPO— URFA—
MARGIN— M08UL.
11 R3.
Afrin Kbftu . . . 19{
Aleppo (Baroed) . . . 10 •
lttrejik (Apamea-Xeuffma) . . 24 j
Urfk(AUettO)) . . . . 1ft
Diarbekr (Amtda) . . 34f
M&rriln (Marde) . . .18
Ntolbln (Xisilnt) . . lo •
Mosul . . . . . . 41i
This is the main road between the
Mediterranean and the Tigris, and the
easiest route from the Syrian coast to
Kurdistan. It is just passable for car-
riages throughout, and runs through
interesting Country in which nume-
rous mounds mark uncicut cities that
would well repay excavation. At
Alexandretta carriagex can bo hired
which make the journey to Aleppo
in 3 day a Tho usual stations And
times, by carriage, are Kara Khdn
(6J hrs.), Afrin Khdn (11 bra.), and
Aleppo (10 hrs.). Provisions should
be carried for the 3 days, as little oan
be obtained at the lihdn* but ooffee
and Idben. In the winter and early
spring intense cold and snow may be
expected on the journey to Aleppo,
and plenty of wraps should be tAken.
On leaving Alexandretta (p. 1921
we pass its fever-breeding swamp and
ascend by a good road to BeUan
(3 hrs.), alt. 1330 ft., prettily situated
in fine mountaiu scenery t and possess-
ing a good hhdtl. Less than 1 hr.
beyond tho village wo roach the head
of the pass, 1980 ft., over Mt. Amanus
— the “Syriau Gates* 1 ; and descend
by k long zigzags to Kirk Khdn (4 bra.).
On the way down we pass the road
to Antioch about 7 hrs. distant, and
obtain fine views (rt.) of the Amh
Ova with several artificial mounds,
the Ak Deniz , or lake of Antioch, and
of the mountains behind Antioch ;
aud (1.) of tho valley of the Kara Su
towards Islnhia.
Digitized by ^.ooole
289
Houle I6l —Afrin Khak—Saleb.
[tfrom Kirk Kbikn a road runfe rt rid
Kh&n Karamut to Antioch in 9 hri. ; and
another, not used in summer on account
of the bad climate and flies, turns 1. up
the valley of the Kara Su between the
Giaour D. and the Kurt D. (p. 278). It
passes several ancient sites (mounds),
and runs through Ordu K. (5. hrs.), an
oak forest, Haifa (G hrs.), Xalahia (6 hrs.),
and Ziigcrli Euyuk, (p. 275). to Katan
Ali (4 hrs.), whence JRte. 99 is followed
to Harash (11 A hrs., p.,203).]
Beyond Kirk Khflih tho road liei
heroes the swampy valley pf the Kara
St i, and, after crossing tho river by ft
bridge, we pass a long viftduct arid
skirt the low hills in which the Krirt
D. here ends. After passing Ah-bunar
(I hr. distant bri the old rohd, iir\6
spring, Uh&n, and large mound), we
reach JIammam Khan (6 hrs.), where
are hot sulphur springs muoh fre-
quented baths, and a mound. From
tnri khfln a bridle-path runs over a
spur of the Ak-bunar D. in 1} hrl to
Afrin Khflp, whilst the chauitee makes
a detour to the 8. by. the Ziftret of
Abdul Rahmnri to ”
Afrin jthin (OJ hrs.), where are a
bridge and ford across the Afrin river.
From ' Afrin there are 3 roads to
Aleppo. The first (14 hfs!) passes N.
of Jeoel Bereket pr J. Simdn , and runs
by Jdemi (Kurd, large spring), JUlftt
fiim&n (4 hrq.), where are the ruins df
a church, monastery, arid palaoe, and
thebase of the oolumn on which t $.
Simon Stylitea lived (see J Handbook io
Syria), aria Ajil (5. hrs.) to Aleppo
,(5 hrs.l The mocmd (Ilf hrs. ) runs,
B. of , J. Berokot, dyer a rough atopy
ridgo ond by HuknCL) and Dana (rt.)
tp Turmam'n, or Tremenin (4 lire.),
whence tbe road is gqod but rathpr
stony to Ajil, and Aleppo. (74 hrs.).
The chautsce ( 1 Of hrs.) runs over an
easier oouutry by Beramulla Khan
, (bridle- path to Killis, Rte. 100), Saia-
ras (3J lirs.S, where tho araba-rorvd to
Killis turns 1.,- Tel) Aj^» on d Tell
Jibin,to , ffl , . \\
Kaleb, or. iieppo, Chalybon-Beroea
, (7 hrs.), alt 1450 ft, the capital of a
vilftyot. The principal objects of
[Turkey.]
interest. are, tbe cattle with its re-
triarkable rock-hewn passages, and
copimanding view of the city; the
Tomb of Smah-ed-din opposite tho en-
trarioe to the castle ; the bazar* ; the
JamC d-Omeiwi, the J. el-Kakan
(“ Hittite ” slab) ; the largo harracke
erected by Ibrahim Pasha during the
Egyptian occupation; the gardent
and orchards on the banks of the
Kowaik ; and tho Atitieh Quarter in
which the European Consuls reside.
(For fuller description sco Handbook
to Syria,) , .
[(i.) Aleppo — Killis — .4«nfa6 (24
hrs.). — The chaussde leaves the Alcxan-
dretta road at Sajaras (7 hrs.), ami
thence follows Ute. 100 to Killi* (6 hrs.),
and Aintab (12 hrs., p. 2871.
(ii.) Aleppo — Mevutij — Jerablus — /*/-
renk (23 hrs.).— After leaving the
Aleppo valley the road runs by the
Ziaret of Jaffer Tiaya to Bap (6$ hrs.,
Arab), at the foot of a hill on which
Btands a mosque that contains the tombs
of Nebi HaskU (? Fzckiel) of the Beni
I a rail and Sheikh Akil, a brother of Ali.
From this point tho salt lako of Jebul
can sometimes l*c seen, ami there is a
flue viow over the fertile plain and its
mounds. In the town is a mosque with
a three-storied tower or campanile.
From Bap we traVeJ over the plain fot
1 hr. to Bxa'a (mosqne with tower,
Corinthian capitals, and other fragments,
arid houses with mud, pee-hive shaped
roofs), and after passing Ga&c**iri(| hr.
L), reach Harim (34 hrs.), occupying an
ancient rite op a hill. There are many
email retrtaips, and a few illegible Latin
inscriptions. \Ve now cross, undulating
ground, and after abotlt 24 hrs. reach a
la Hat (underground water channel), and
fblloW it to V*
• ’ . ■
* Jkembij, Arab, or Bembty, Turk., Bam -
'byde+Hicrajpolis *( 34 hrs.), which occu-
pies one of the, finest sites in N. Syria.
The shapeless ruins cover a large area
i in, which the forms of a theatre and a
Stadium can- be .distinguished. The line
of the *<dlj °f Which a few fragments
arc left, fcart be traced. The later
Moslem town has also been destroyed,
but a ruined minaret bearing the name
of Salah-ed-din remains. Large numbers
of coins are found in the ruins. Within
the walls and near them are some flno
springs, and there is a small pool that
V
Digitized by L^ooQle
290
Route 101 ^Birejik— Or fa,.
never dries in A “ punch-bowl ” that once
hod tiers of seats round it. In l870|
after the Turco-Russian War, a colony
of Absekh Circassians, from Widin,
was planted in the ruins which, up to
that time, had been occupied by Arabs.
Bambyce, the chief seal of the worship
of Astarte in Syria, became a great
emporium under the Seleucidae when it
was known as Ilierapolit, Here ill
omens befell Crassus before his defeat
by the Parthians, and Julian when
entering on the Persian pampaign in
which he lost his life. Under Constant-
tine it was the 'capital of the province
Euphratensis. The mixture silk and
wool known as bombazine derives its
name from Bambyce.
Beyond Bembij we cross open down
country; pass several mounds, and ford
the Sajur, which separates the Arabs from
the Turkomans before reaching Chakal
K. (6^ hrs., Turkoman), whence it is 4 hr.
to • :
t Jsrablus, 'Europus or Oroput, a place
which has been identified with Car -
chemish, the “ Hittite ” capital, near
which the battle took place between
Nebuchadnezzar and Pharaoh Necho
(b.c. 605) that decided the ‘ fate of
Western Asia. There are a largo mound
immediately above the Euphrates ;
traces of the walls and a broad ditch and
causeway; and “ Hittite" and Homan
remains, Some “ Hittite ” slabs* from
the site are now in the British Museum.
From Chakal K. the traveller can pro-
ceed direct tq Birejik ($ hrs.), Or travel
through a Turkoman district to Eiiya
on the Aleppo-Birejik road, and past
several very large mounds, such as
Salasi KaUh , near Tulbathar (l.) to
▲intab (11 hrs., p. 287).]
From Aleppo the chausU e run* over
gently undulating and partially culti-
vated country to Akhterim (8 hrs.,
Arab.), whence there is a road in
6| hrs. to Killis (p. 287). After ford-
ing the Sajur we pass Atambur (94
hii, Turkoman), alt 1820 ft; and
Ekizja or Erkija ; and afterwards
cross the Euphrates (boat ferry) to
Birqiik, Apamea-Zeugtm (7 hrs.),
alt 1170 ft The town is built on a
limestone diff some 400 ft high, and
the streets are narrow and steep. The
population, about 8000, induces 1000
Armenians. There are considerable
remains of the dd city w&lls, and of
the castle (Bir) which commanded
the passage over the river. There is
a good stone khdn, and there are
others in caves in the rook. In flood
time small steamers could ascend the
river to Birejik. Apamea-Zengma was,
as it is now. one of the most important
crossings of the Euphrates, At which
there was a bridge of boats (teugma).
It was refounded by Seleucus Nicator,
And is apparently the Biriha or Bithra
at which Julian halted. It hap also
been identified yrith the “Hittite”
city Til- Bar sip pf the cuneiform in-
scriptiofis. Leaving Birejik we ascend
to the plateau and cross leyel or un-
dulating ground to Charmelik (7 hrs.,
Kurd) and
Orfk, or Urfa, Edema (8 hrs ), all.
1700 ft, the chief town of a Sanjak.
It is built on two hills, between which
flows a small stream, the anct. Scirtus.
The dimate is healthy and dry. The
population, about 20,000, is largely
composed of Armenians and Jacobites.
There are the remains of the old toalls
‘ and rock-hewn ditch, and of the castle,
which was built of old material. In
the principal square is the Moyne of
Abraham; who, according' to Moslem
legend, was slain here. Near it is a
f ond, tenanted from time immemorial
y sacred fish, perhaps originally be-
longing to the worship of Atergatis.
Many point of various ages are turned
up Bom time to time. In thfc cliffs
near the town are rock-hewn tombe,
some with inscriptions ; ani} about
1 m. distant is the spring Cf ' Nebi
Eyvb, traditionally connected with
the healing of Abgar’s leprosy by
.Thoddeus. * The plain S. of the town
is celebrated for its wheat and its
pasturage. 1
Edema' was founded or refounded
on au older site by Seleucus, who
* named it after Edeesa in Macedonia.
It was also called CaUirrhoi, in allu-
sion to its fountain, whence its name,
; er-Bohd (Arm), and Orfa (Turk.).
About b.o. 135 it was the centre of
Digitized by L^ooQle
291
Route 101
the Osrhoenic kingdom, whose kings
took the title Abgar. The 15th King
Abgar Uohomo is famous for his
legendary correspondence with Christ
The kingdom Wame tributary to
Borne in a.d. 116, and Edessa was
made a Roman colony circ. 217. In
the following centuries it became
celebrated for its theological schools,
of which the most famous was the
Schola rented, “Persian school, 1 M
whoso professors adopted the Nosto-
rian heresy. In 1097, during the
First Crusade, it was seized by
Baldwin, who formed it into an in-
dependent Countship. The ruling
Counts were: — Baldwin (1097-1100)*;
Baldwin II. (1100-18); Jocelyn de
Courteuay (11 18-31); and Jocelyn II.
(1131-44). The Counts were at con-
stant war with (the Moslems, and at
last the place fell into the hands of
Zengi of Mosul (1 144). Jocelyn then
removed to Tell Bather, u Hill of the
Annunciation/* apparently Salasi
Kaleh, near Tulbashar (p. 290). It
was afterwards token by Hulagu, the
Sultniis of Egypt and Aleppo, Timftr,
the Turkomans, the Persians, and by
Selim I., when lie conqnored Syria
and Mesopotamia (1516-17).
[ Or/a — Ilarran^-Ran el Mia — Mar-
din . — The road lies over the plain to
Hamm. Carr hat (8 hrs.), which now con-
sists or a low range of mounds on both
sides of the river Belik, anct. Bilechat.
There are remains of the castle, of the
city walls and gateway, and of the great
cathedral. Near the ruins is the fatuous
well of Rebecca, and in their vicinity are
several villages of the Beni Zeid Arabs.
Jfarran , or Charrdn , the “ city of
Nahor/* to which Abraham migrated
from Ur of the Chaldees, is often men-
tioned in the cuneiform inscriptions.
TigUth Pileser I. (circ. b.c. 1120)
hunted elephants in its territory ; it was
captured by Sennacherib ; and it was
celebrated for the worship of Sin, the
moon-god. who was its patron-deity.
Near Carrhae Crassus was defeated by
the Parthians. At the time of the Chris-
tian era it formed part of the kingdom
of Abgar, and later it was a Roman city.
Between Harran and the Euphrates is
Serty, anct. Servg (Gen. zi. 20), and
Batnae .
. — Sueerek .
Baa el 'Ala, Rhetaena-Tkeodotiopolie
(12 hrs., Circ.), was the scene of one of
the great game drives in which Timfir
delighted. It is now a small village
with few remains. Near it warm springs
burst from the rock, and form at once a
swift clear river, — one of the principal
branches of the Khabur. From the
village it is two days* journey to Haidis,
rid Tell Arm in.]
From Orfn there aro two routes to
M&rdin : — the direct road by Viran-
shehr, which is little used on aooount
of scarcity of water and exposure
to Arab raids, and the chauseds by
Diarbekr.
The direct road (41} hrs.) runs over
the plain to Mara (5 hrs.; IcMn,
small stream), and 8 hrs. beyond it
crosses a range of stony hills to Mu-
hammad Khdn (6} hrs., rain pools
and shallow wells). After passing
Katfir Hurt (2} hrs.) it "again enters
the plain, and traverses it to Viran-
shehr (7} hrs.), alt 1850 ft, a village
built in tho extensive ruins of an
ancient town, possibly Chabora s. The
water supply in from a spring and
stream. There is a small bazar fre-
quented by the surrounding Bedawin.
From Yiran-shehr we can follow the
N. route by Direk, or continue across
the plain to DUveran, Hekdjfii hrs.,
mound and stream), TeU d-Heramia,
el Mushluk (wells), Brakmi (stream),
and TeU Annin (9 hrs., ruins), a small
village of R. O. Armenians. Thence,
after a gradual rise to the foot of the
hills, we climb a winding stony ascent
of * hr. to Hardin (3} hrs.).
Tho chauteds runs by Julmen to
Miekmiehin (119 hrs.) and. to Bnverek
(64 hrs.), an unhealthy town, lying in
a hollow. On an artificial mound in
its oentre are the ruins of a castle
built bv the Counts of Edessa. At
the foot of the mound is a fine spring.
Leaving 8uverek ( we pass through ex-
tensive vineyards, and in about 1 hr.
ascend the lower slopes of the Karaja
D. (part of the range of ML Motive),
passing KaimaJthi (3} hrs., Kurd), and
Kara-baghehe (2) hrs.), alt. 4000 ft
Thence we descend by Kuhna Kkin
v 2
Digitized by Google
£92 Rout* 101. — Mardin— tfiribin.
to Hdboahir (4 hrs.), alt 2750 ft., of tlio apse are tho Pro thesis and Dio*
Holipur , and conicum, both sauare compartments
without apses. The Church of the
Dferbekr (C| hrs.). Rto. 93 is how Monastery, Deird-Omar, has a similar
followed to plan, except that the narthex consists
of an open arcade, and on the N. side
Mardin (18 hrs.), the chief town of of the Diacouicum are 2 small chapels,
a Sanjak. The town occupies a one containing the tomb of Mar
remarkable site on the S. side of a Yakub. At ndkh , in tho Jebel
conical hill, and the houses rising tier Tur, there is a Church of 8. Mary
above tier present a most picturesque the Virgin with narthex and nave,
appearance. The streets are very covered by a central dome with semi-
steep, and generally paved in Bfcps. domes on each side, like the Church
The hill is almost surrounded by old of S. Andrew (Khoja Mustafa Pasha
walls, and on its summit aro the Jamisi) at Constantinople. The choir
remains of tho famous castle. Kulch consists of a semicircular apse with
Shuhba ( Maridc or Marde in Lutiu), 5 niches, mid rt. und 1. are tho Pro-
which from the tinio of the Romuns thesis and Diuoonicum. Beyond
played an important part in the his- Midiat the road crosses tho Tnr Abdiu
tory of this region. It was considered plateau, in places stony and difficult,
impregnable, and it offered a pro- to Sheikh Khan (3 hrs.), Baseabrina
longed resistance to Hulagu and (5 hrs ), Azekh (7J hrs ), and Jesire
Tim hr. For several oenturies it was (7| lira., p. 240).]
more or less ihdependent under princes
of the Ortokid Turkoman dynasty. From Mardin the road skirts the S.
The climate is healthy and dry, and edge of the Tur Abdiu hills, and runs
fruit grows well. Thero aro several over level ground to
mosques and medresses, three monas-
teries (Syrian, Franciscan, and Capu- Dara, or Ka$r d-Borj hrs ), a
chin), several churches, and an impor- small village on a stream. Here there
tant station of the American Mission sro extensive ruins which are appar-
with church, good schools for boys ently those of the frontier fortress
and girls, and a resident medical Darin- AnusUitiopolis, of which Pro-
offioer. Nearly half tho population is copius gives such on interesting
Christian, and there are Armenian, account it was taken by Chosroes lE
Clialdacan, Jacobite, Protestant, and in 574 after a memorable siego of six
R. Catholic communities. Near Mar- months. Thence to
din is a Syrian monastery of the 9th
cent, called Deir Zaferun t at which Hi Bibin, Nuibis , Armn. Medtpin
Buckingham stopped. (4$ hrs ), a small town of mud houses
noar tho point at which tho Jaghjagha
5 Mardin — Midiat- Jeztrc (3tif hre ). 8u, anct. Mygdoniut, or llermas, leaves
’his is the route usually followed to the mountains. The only remains of
Mosul in oonscquenco of the insecurity the 'famous city snd fortress are a
of that by Nisibin. It is a trouble- few columns of a temple of the Corin-
some stony road, on which quick thinn Order, some blocks of masonry,
travelling is impossible. It runs at and the Jacobite Church of 8. James,
tint over the plain and then gradually — a triple church said to date from the
ascends to the plateau, pat-sing Turri t 4th century. Tho interior doorways,
KtcahralH (7 hrs.), llarbi , Ke/r which aro richly sculptured, are of
Hotair, Ac., before reaching Midiat Justinian's date. The south com-
(7 hrs.), a Christian village, and seat pertinent of the church has long been
of a kaimakam. At 3aiah t near in ruins, and all trace of it has gone,
Midiat, there is an interesting Church except the fine doorways that led to
of Mar Yakub with narthex, nave, it from the central church. Only &
and choir with apse. On the rt. und 1. portion of the walls of the north
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route 101 . — Mosul .
293
eompartmont ox ini*. 8. Janie*, the
Syrian Bishop (310-80), to whom the
church is dedicated, was buried in
the central church, where his tomb is
still shown. Nisibis was down to the
XI tli century noted for its fruitful
gardens, but there is now little culti-
vation, and the place is unhealthy at
certain seasons. Scorpions are numer-
ous and dangerous. The inhabitants
nro chiefly Tai Arabs, and there are
a few Christians and Jews.
Mitibis was a town of very great
antiquity, and it is often mentioned
in the cuneiform inscriptions. Under
the Selouoidno it was known os Antio-
chia Mygdoniae. It was tho residonco
of tho Armenian kings (n.a 149-
A.D. 14), and iu it Ti^rancs had his
treasure house. During the wars
between the Romans ana Persians it
was very important as a strong frontier
fortress. Its capture by Trajan gave
that Emperor the title “ Parthioas.”
Under Severn* it became a Roman
colony, but it was ceded to the Persians
by the treaty mode by Jovian after
the death of Julian. It was the seat
of a Nestorian metropolitan, and
contained many monasteries and
churches. Its ruin was due to the
oppression and heavy taxation of tho
Uamdanid prinoes of Moeul.
The road usually followed to Mosul
runs at the foot of the hills to Deirun
(11) hrs.), and thence over the plateau
to Jesire (81 hrs., n. 2461 from which
place Rto. 87 is followed to Mosul.
Tho desert road is little usod owing
to scarcity of water and insecurity.
It runs aoross the fertile plain, ou
which are a few scattered Christian
villages <f Jacobite), to Chit Agha (15
hrs.), a Christian village. Thence it
continues through a district in which
there aro no villages and little water
to RurmUai, a great spring grazing
r und of the Kurds, and Hogna ; ana
crosses tho spurs of Jebet Sinjar
(p. 298) tho day before reaching
Mosul f26| hrs.), tho capital of a
vil&yot, a military station, and tho
most important town in Upper Meso-
potamia. It stands on the rt. bank of
\hq Tigris, and is qurropnded by vpqIU
of sun-driod bricks, with soven gates,
whioh wore eroctod some yoars ago
as a protection against tho Shammar
Arabs: tho walls aro now almost in
reins. Outside the Bab e$-8crai is
the cattle market, and | m. to the
8. are the Barracks and Government
Offioes. The houses are of stone with
vaulted chambers and flat roofs, on
which, in hot weather, the inmates
often sup and sleep. Tho larger
houses are built round oourts into
which the rooms opon. There are
serdabs, or underground rooms, for the
hot summer time. Tho streets are
narrow and paved with round slippory
stones. Tho baxdr is largo and busy,
nnd there aro largo khdnt with fair
accommodation. Water is brought from
the Tigris in skins on ponies; it is
muddy, but good when filtered. At
the N.E. ooraer of the town is a
sulphur spring. The dimate is dry
ana good, though very hot in summer,
but the town Is unhealthy owing to
its insanitary condition. Ophthalmia
is very prevalent, and so Is the Mosul
“button,” which is similar to the
Aleppo •• button/’ The great mosque
with its leaning minaret is said to
have been built bv Nur-od-din on the
site of tho Ch. or tho Forty Martyrs.
In anothor mosque, built on the site
of the Ch. of 8. John Baptist, Lulu,
the last of the Atabcgs of tho lino of
Zongi, is buried. There aro Chaldaean,
Syrian, and Jacobite churches in tho
towo, and in tho environs several
monasteries.
The population of 40,000 includes
about 7000 Christians and 1500 Jews.
The Moslems oall themselves Kurds
and Arabs, but most are of Aramean
descent. The Christians of all deno-
minations unite with the Moslems in
honouring the patron saints Mar
Jiijis (8. George) and Nebi Yon us
(Jonah). Arabio and Kermanji are
spokon in tho town. Mosul has for a
long poriod boon a centre for R. C.
Missionary effort, and the Dominicans
by their schools and printing presses
havo made a great impression. Thero
is a trade in wool, nail nuts, hides,
wax, cotton, gum, %o. Tho town
gave it* name (o mnjlin which we*
Digitized by L^ooQle
294
Route 101 . — Mosul.
once extensively manufactured. There
are a British Agent, under the Resi-
dent at Baghdad, and French and
Russian Consuls.
The bridge over the Tigris is partly
of masonry and partly of boats. In
front of the Bab el-Jisr a masonry
pier projects 96 ft. iuto the river ; then
comes a bridge of boats 869 ft. long,
across the main channel ; beyond this
another pier and ramp 138 ft. long
leads to a masonry bridge 884 ft. long ;
and then there are a ramp 156 ft.
long, and a strip of gravel only
covered in high floods. When the
bridge of boats is open the river is
crossed by a ferry.
Mosul possibly occupies the site of
a suburb of Nineveh, and near it must
have been fought the great battle
(627) in which Heraclius broke the
power of Chosroes II., and recovered
tho true cross. At the time of the
Arab conquest (686) it was called
el-Mausil. Under the Hamdanid
princes (934-90) it was independent
and prosperous until taken by the
Beni Okai'l of Syria, from whom it
passed to the Beni Mervan (1002).
The Seljftk Melik-Shah (1078-93)
made it his base of operations against
Baghdad and enriched it with many
buildings. In the 1 2th century under
the Atabegs, especially Zengi and
Nur-ed-din, it had a short period of
splendour ; but it suffered much
during the Mongol invpsions( 1235-59),
and was pillaged by Tim&r (1398):
It then passed into the hands of the
Turkomans, the Osmanlis. and the
Persians before being finally annexed
to the Osmanli Empire by Murad IV.
in 1638. In 1743 it was unsuccess-
fully besieged by Nadir Shah.
Mosul is noted as tho birthplaoe of
Boha-ed-din, the favourite and bio-
grapher of Salah-ed-din, of Ibu-el-
Athir the historian, of Ibn Khalikan,
and other distinguished men.
Environs . — The country round tho
town is dry and brown at every season
except the spring of the year, and
presonts one vast expanse of plain,
broken only by a few minor features
and anoient mounds. The broad,
rapid Tigris flows through the plaiu,
its stream occasionally broken by
islands covored with iungle, and its
banks bordered by bolts of green
herbage. The horizon E. is bounded
by tho Biiow-clad Tiari heights; nod
lower chains climb gradually up to
those lofty solitudes which reflect in
indescribable tints and Bhades the
last rays of the setting sun. Between
the city and the first range of hills
rise the great mounds that cover tho
site of Nineveh.
Sport . — Except during the hottest
part of the year hares con bo coursod
early in tho morning with Porsian or
Arab greyhounds After a few days'
heavy rain in winter gazelle can bo
coursod with greyhounds, and afford
excellent sport The patchos of
jungle on the banks of the Tigris
swarm with francolin ; thore are also
woodcock in season t wild dud:, and
occasionally wolf, hyaena, lynx, Ac.
44 Pigsticking ” is a favourite amuse-
ment. With a party of Arubs, always
ready for fun, the sportsman can drive
a boar out of the jungle on to the
plain, where he will give a good run of
10 to 15 minutes at tho horse's best
pace. The beat place for boar — and
indeed for all game— is the valley of
the Zab about 2 hrs. below Nimrftd.
There they may be found all tho year
round. In winter they retire to tho
thickest port of the jungle; but in
spring, when tho desert teems with
succulent herbs, and tender roots,
they come out to feed at loisuroi
This is the best season for sport.
Excursions . — The sites of tho princi-
pal cities of Assyria can be easily
reached from Mosul. Tho whole
district between the Tigris, the Groat
Zab, and the Rhazr Su, anct
Bumadus , is covered with traces of
former habitation, and tho positions
of the larger cities are marked by the
groups of mounds in which Botta and
Layard made their remarkable dis-
coveries now nearly fifty years ago.
The most important groups are : —
Kuyunjik, Ninus or Nineveh — the
Digitized by L^ooQle
296
Route 101. — Khor8abad — Balawat .
famous capital of the Assyrian Empire 2095 yds. The defences were similar
— on the L bank of the Tigris im^. to those at Nineveh and Dar Sargina.
mediately opposite Mosul. The re- Here Sir H. Layard ozcavated tho
mains consist of an inclopure formed vast T-shapcd palace of Sargon, tho
by a continuous line of mounds 40 to palaces of Assurnaairpai, Shalmanezer
50 ft high, marking the remains of a II., and Esarhaddon, the temple of
wall, the western face of which is Ncbo, the observatory tower, and
interrupted by tho two great mouods other buildings. Amongst the many
of Kuyunjik and Nobi Yunus. The finds, now in the British Museum, .
W.fuoe, about 21 m. long, was formerly wero tho famous black obelisk, and
protected by the river ; the N. and S. a statue of Nebo. Assumasirpal
faces had deep broad moats ; the K. (n.e. 885-800) appears to have trans-
face was providod witli an elaborate ferred tho capital from Assur (p. S0G1
j system of defence, of which the deep to Oalah — a town originally founded
; sluggish Khoxr Su (the Zalcapbiratu by Shalmanezor I., cira . B.p. 1300.
; of the inscriptions) formed part before The Birt Nimr&d, observatory tower, .
. it mn through the miust of tho built of brick and 844 ft. high, should •
city to tho Tigris. In the mound of , be ascended for the view that it
Kuyunjik on the rt. bank of the commands of the mound-oovered plain,
Khozr, Layard found the palaces of the Tigris, and the Kurdish mountains. f.
Sennacherib and Assurbanipal, of Visits should also be paid to the spot
which tho library chamber that con- at which the Ten Thousand crossed
toined the famous deluge tablets the Zab, about 2 hrs. distant, and to tho
formed part. In the mound of Nebi old Assyrian /canal, now called Negub. ,
Yunus, on which is the traditional ,
tomb of Jonah, wero found n second Balawat, Ingur Bel , about 2 hrs.
palace of Sennacherib, and one of N.E. of Nimr&d. lloro Mr. Rassani
Esarhaddon, whence came many of found the remains of the fine bronzo
tho slabs now in the British Museum, gates, now in tho British Museum,
The excavations were made at dif- that opened into the vostibule of a
ferent times by Layard, Loft us, G. palace of Shalmanezer II.
Smith, and Eassom. Tho robuilder
and founder of the glories of Nineveh Other groups of mounds are at
was Sonnacherib ; tho city perished Selamieh , 1 hr. N. of Nimr&d; at
, with tho empire between b o. 626-608. Karamles ; at Bacuani , E. of Kliorsa-
bad ; and at Sheri f Khan on the ; c
Khorsabod, Dar Sargina, on a Tigris N. of Mosul,
tributary of the Khozr Su, about The following tour from Mosul,
5 hrs. N.E. of Mosul. The city was occupying 4 or 5 days, will take the
a square, with sides of 2000 yds., traveller through most of the places ^
having its angles direoted to the four of interest. Khoreabad . (5 hrs.) ;
cardinal points. In the mounds Bashika (31 hrs., Yezidi) : Mar Mattei
MM. Botta and Place found the , (31 hrs., a Chaldaean monastery on .
palace of Sargon built on a platform, Jebel Maklub, whence there is an
und noar it an observatory or temple extensive view over the great plain
tower similar to tho Bire Nimr&d of the Tigris); Kara-kush (4| hrs.);
(see below). The slabs are now in the Nimr&d (4} hrs.); Kuyunjik (8 hrs.).
Ivouvro at Paris. Sargon foundod «
Bar Sargina about n.o. 720, and Other excursions may be made (i.)
moved the capital to it from Caloh. to Bavian (2 days from Mosul), where
a tributary of tho Klmzr Su issues
Nimr&d, Caloh , 8 hrs. S.E. of Mosul, from tho mountains. Here, at tho
between tho Great Zab and tho Tigris mouth of a ravine, are the most
and about 2 hrs. above their junction, important rook sculptures in Assyria,
Tho remains at Nimr&d and Athur dating from tho reign of Shalmanezer
liq within u (|uadruuglo ubqpt 2331 by II. Inscriptions will be fou|}d iq
Digitized by L^ooQle
lloute 102.— Meskineh — Hammam.
297
Lftyard'a Nineveh ii., 142, and Nineveh
and Babylon , p. 207 sq. The road
lies through Beazani and over .Jebel
Maklub; and a visit to Khorsabad
may be included in the excursion
. (ii.) To Malthiyeh (2 days from
Mosul), near the small town of Dohuk.
Hero are four rock-hewn tablets, with
Assyrian figures, of the samo date as
thoeo at Bavian, and large numbers
of rock-tombs. The road runs by
Tell Kef; the Monastery of Rabban
Hormuzd, Alkoeh (Chaldoean), where
the tomb of Nahum is shown; and
Dohuk.
(iil.) To Ain Sifnt, and Sheikh Adi
(Rte. 85) ; (iv.) to Hammam Ali
(Rto. 105); ana (v.) to el-Hathr
(Rte. 105).
and tinned moats should be carried.
After reaching the Euphrates, cara-
vans usually halt for tho night at ono
of the mud police forts ou its bank.
A taptieh should be taken for tho
whole route and paid about P. 10 per
diem. Dragomane or servants should
be brought from Damascus or Beirut,
as there are no good ones at Aleppo.
Leaving Aleppo we travel over a
partially cultivated plain, sparse) v
studdod with villages of “ bee-hive, 1 **
shaped houses, past Deir to Jibrin
(4 hrs., well, no ichdn). Thence over
similar country, passing several arti-
ficial mounds (Telle), and tho largo
salt lake of Jebtd fa few m. rt.), where
the Government obtain salt by evapo-
ration, to Deir Hafr (7f hrs., khan).
After about 2} hrs. we pass the large
mounds of Madum, where all cultiva-
tion ceases, and 3} hrs. further catch
sight of the Euphrates.
ROUTE 102.
ALEPPO ~DEIR — HIT - BAGHDAD.
Mesklnt-h
Jlammam .
Deir
An* (Anatko)
' Hit (/#) .
Felaja .
Baghdad .,
hrs.
19*
14
30*
44*
27*
20 *
13
This is a caravan route , but, owing
to its exposure to Arab raids, the
longer road by Mosul (Rte. 1011 is
usually followed. The rate of hire
for horses and mnlns varies with tho
season; in tho spring it is 14-15
mejidteh per mule from Aloppo to
Baghdad. Invalids can travel in a
TaJcht-i-ravan, or litter (a new ouo costs
about 3 1. 5s.), which can, if necessary,
be used as a sleeping place. Khdne
are few and bad, and a tent is desir-
ebje, Ffovieione pre ecqrcp en route ,
ifeskinsh (7} hrs., khan), a small
place usually considered the head of
steamboat navigation on the rivor.
In J hr. we pass Old Mcekineh, pos-
sibly anct Barhaliesue , once tho
Euphrates port of Aleppo, but now
some distance from the ri ver. Sheikh
Ohana (7 hrs.) at tho foot of a teU %
crowned by a mud fort, from which
there is a fine view, including Kalch
Ja’uber, and Abu Hurareh. Thence
the route runs partly in the river
plain, and partly in the desert, passing
in 1 hr. Abu Hurareh (rt. ruins), and,
| hr. later, eZ Ja'aber (or Duear ), on
the 1. bank of the river, to
Hammam (7 hrs.). After about
4 hrs. we pass Phunsah , where aro the
remains of an ancient bridge, and soon
afterwards Rakka, on the L bank at
the junction of tho Belik with tho
Euphrates. At or near Phunsah was
Thapettoue, a frontier town on tho rt.
bank of tho rivor, at tho most import-
ant passage in its middlo course.
Hero tho Euphrates was forded by
the army of Cyrus tho younger ; hero
Darius crossed before, and recrossea
after Issus; and here Alexander
crossed in pursuit Thapsacus was
probably Tiphsah(l Kings iv. 24), the
Digitized by L^ooQle
298
Route 102 . — Sabkha — Sinjar.
E. boundary of Solomon's kingdom.
Under the Seleuoids it was called
Amphipolts. At Bakka was Nice-
phorium, a town founded by command
of Alexander, and completed by Se-
leuous Nioator. A fortress was after-
wards built there by Justinian.
[From the it. bank of the Euphrates,
opposite Rakka, there is a road to
Hamah, by Rosa/a (11 hrs.); Dera’at
(18 hrs.l ; Kastal (16 hrs.) ; Salamiya
(18 hrs.) ; Hamah , anct. Hamath (9 hrs).
Au Arab escort is necessary. For routes
from Hamah to Damascus and Aleppo,
see Handbook for Syria and Palestine.]
Sabkha (101 hrs.), a large police
post on the river bank, and seat of k
mudir : there is good pasture. Ma-
dan (64 hrs.), on a backwater of the
river ; beyond this place we pass (1.)
the ruins of Zenobia, founded by Zen-
obia in the 3rd cent. a.d. There are
the remains of two castles on the
hills, Yusuf Tepdar , between which
tho river runs. Camp (7$ hrs.) at
the mouth of two wadies where tho
river makes a large bend.
Deir el-Zor (6 hrs., fair khdn\ alt.
806 ft, the chief town of the Zof
Sanjak — a considerable place in the
desert, on the rt. bank of the river,
with good houses. It is connected by
a bridge with a well cultivated island,
on which are shady walks. The 1.
bank is reached by a ferry. It is
usual to halt here to rest tho animals.
Most of tho inhabitants are Arabs,
who have settled down to town life ;
there are a few Armenians, Syrians,
and Jews.
((i.) Deir — Sinjar — Afostd (72 hrs.).
This route lies through a country roamed
over by the Sham mar Arabs, who are
not always submissive to the authority
of the Porte, and the interesting Yezidi
district of J. Sinjar. The distances
given are camel hours of about 21 m.
After crossiug the Euphrates at Deir
we travel over a level district, on the
rt bank of, the Khabur , anct Chaboras,
once prosperous, and. in the times of
Trajan and Julian, well wooded, but now
desert. It is the tract called Gauzanitis ,
the Guzam of the inscriptions, and the
Gozan of 2 Kings xviii. 6, to which the
Assyrian kings Pul and Shalmanezer
carried away the three tribes, Reuben,
Gad, and Manasseh. In it are many
ruined villages, and artificial mounds
(tells), in some of which Assyrian sculp-
tures have been found.
Shedadi (24 hrs.), alt. 950 ft., a ruined
village on a tell, the seat of a mudir, who
resides in a tent. [From Shedadi it is
18 hrs. to Yiranshehr (p. 291) ; 24 hrs. to
Ras el-Ain (p. 291) ; and 12 hrs. over
the waterless plain to J. Sinjar.] After
passing Aiefeh Tepe (Assyrian sculp-
tures) we ford the Khabur a little below
Taban Tepe, and follow the L bank to
the junction of the Jaghjagha. Here,
between the two rivers, Is J. Kerkub ,
alt. 1600 ft, crowned by tho ruins or
a castle. Hawaji Said (18$ hrs.), alt.
1200 ft., a camping ground of the Sham-
mar Arabs, on the 1. bank of the Jagh-
jagha, which higher up runs through 'a
grass plain with many tells . Here we
turn E. over the plain, and in 6 hrs.
reach Samoka at the foot of J. Sinjar.
After crossing the end of the ridge,
2150 ft., to Sekenik (spring), we follow
its S. base to
8iiriar, Singara (9$ hrs., Moslem
and Yezidi), alt. 1950 ft, the seat of a
ktumakam. It stands on the Nahr
Thathar , a shallow stream that rises in
J. Siniar. In the hills, which have an
alt. of 8000-8500 ft., are many Yezidi
villages, whilst on the plain, through
which several small streams run down
to join the Thathar, are a few Moslem
villages, and numerous tells. Singara
was a strongly-fortified frontier post of
the Romans, and under Severus and
Gordian it appears to have been a Roman
colony. It was the scene of a memorable
nocturnal battle between Constantins and
Shapur II. (Sapor), in which each side
claimed the victor}'. During the reign
of Julian it was stormed by the Persians,
though defended by two legions. After
a.d. 630 the Jacobites had bishops at
Singara, who were dependent on the
maphrian of Tekrit. Osmanli authority,
was only completely established in tills
district in 1837, when the castle was
taken and destroyed. The foot of the
hills is now followed to
Tell Afar (12 hrs.. Turkoman), alt. 1500
ft., a large wealthy agricultural town
with the ruins of a castle on a tell.
Isiyard suggested its identification with
Digitized by L^ooQle
299
Route 102.—
the Telassar of Isaiah xxxvii. 12. We
next cross the low hills to Abu Maria
(31 hrs.), where ore a spring and stream
running to the Tigris, and an old castle
on a tell ; and then travel over open
country between low bare hills to
Xosul (10 hrs. p. 293).
(ii.) Mr — Palmyra — MUMCtM.
The rood runs by 7'ell el- Nadia (15 lire.) ;
Resiifa (11 hrs.); Ta\ it/ihch (14 hrs.);
Arak (9 hrs.) ; ralmt/ra (f>l hrs.).
For description <>f Palmyra, nnd the
route thence to Damascus (4 days), see
Jiandbcok to Syria and Palest *»»<*.]
Leaving Deir we pose, in about
81 hrs.; a quantity of ancient pottery,
spread over the plain, which perhaps
marks the site of a suburb of Cir -
cesium, now KirkUiyeh , on the 1.
bank, between the Euphrates and the
Kbabdr, and not far from Abu Serai.
A few mounds mark the site of the
city, which was strongly fortified by
Justinian. •
Mayedin (8) hrs.), a large village,
the residence of tho koimakam of the
Achara Kaza. 9 hr. from the village
is Kair er-Rahaoch, possibly the Ke-
hoboth of the Bible. It is a fine
Arab castle built on an older site, and
must have been a place of great
strength. Its governor was at one
time a Christian Patriarch. About
8 hrs. beyond Mayedin we pass tho
mounds of Ushareh (8 m. 1.), and
5 lira, farther the extensive ruins of
Salahieh, which is said to have taken
its name from 8alah-ed-din. One hr.
late# we reach Salahieh (9 hrs.) police
post. Thence to
1 Abu Kemal (6 bra.), a police post,
small village, and seat or a kaima-
kam, which is Mud to be half way to
Baghdad. 8{ lira, beyond the village
we pass W: Sheikh Ja*aber , at the
month of whioh is a large tell of the
same name; and soon after tho ex-
tensive ruins Called Sur (f m. 1.).
Der' eUKaim (6 hrs.), whore possibly
were Gordian's tomb and the Perao-
Roman boundary. At Nahieh (8 hrs.),
the cliff marking the edge of the
desert, gives place to easy slopes.
Mcyedin — Hit.
Soon after catching eight of the ruins
of Rahova Kaleh t on the 1. bank, we
enter the pklm groves of
Ana, Anatho (7 hrs.), tho seat of 4
kaimakam. It is a pretty town con-
sisting of one street about 8 m. long.
Most of the houses are isolated, and
each has its own palm grove; all
have ter dab*. There is no khan, and
caravans bivouac on an open spaoo
near the centre of the town. Ana
supplies Baghdad with water-carriers
(taka ) ; and a white linen doth, made
by the women, is much used by the
Arabs. On a small island are the
ruins of a castle destroyed by Julian
during his Persian campaign, but
afterwords rebuilt. Below Ana tho
river banks are well cultivated, but
the route re-enters the desert and in
6| hrs. crosses W. Fdhmin and other
rough wateroouraes. 8 bra. further
the river plain is re-entered.
Raditha (12 hrs.), a pretty villagb on
the bank, the true Ifaditha being on
an island. After crossing W. Sagh -
reidan the route lies over the ' plain,
and then under cliffs to the mouth of
IF. Bagdad* (8 hrs., oamp), no police
station. Thence, passing sevoral
wadies and backwaters, to
Hit, Ji, and perhaps Ahava (7} lira,
hhdny, where are several artificial
mounds, and bitumen and salt springs.
At Hit lime-burning is carried on,
and salt is obtained from tho springs
by evaporation. Water is raised from
the river by gigantic water-wheels of
primitive construction. The hot
bubbling geysers, the smell of bitu-
men, tho plain glistening with crusted
salt, tho lurid smoke of tho lime-
works, and the clatter of the huge
water-wheels, render the name
“ Mouth of Hell/’ which the Arabs of
old gave to the plaoe, singularly ap-
propriate. Hit is not only remark-
able from its physical characteristics,
but also of some historical note.
According to Hcrodotns, tho bitumon
used os cement in building the walls
of Babylon was brought from Is,
which is apparently called 14 Ilii of tho
bitumen ” in tho inscriptions. That
Digitized by ^.ooQle
300
Route 103 . — Ramadieh .
bitumen was so employed, the remains
of Babylon to this day attest. There
can be little doubt that 1st, enume-
rated with Nineveh and other Meso-
potamian places in an inscription at
Karnok as rendering tribute to ROUTE 103.
Thothmes 111., and whose chief is re-
corded as bringing bitumen, is the diarbekr to BAGHDAD, ny haft.
same as Hit. The Ahava of Ezra viii.
15, where he mustered the second Raft navigation on the Tigris com-
expedition which he led from Babylon mencci at Diarbekr, and onds at
to Jerusalem, has been identified by Baghdad. The rafts, fodefo, consist
some writers with Is. Bitumen, naph- of two layers of thin poplar poles
tlm, and potroleum springs are found resting on and secured to rows of
over a large area, called d-Lekata , S. inflated sheepskins. They vary in
of Hit. size from 50 to 800 skins, and their
Tho rood from Hit runs partly over speed depends chiefly on the strength
the dosort and partly through a of the current. They aro dolayod by
spongy salt marsh, where are the slight head winds, and stopped by
remains of an ancient canal. 4 hr#, strong winds. A raft of 150 skins
ufier passing the iilrbe of Sheilth Wait , measures 16 by 26 ft., and gives room
where alms are demanded, we reach for a small tent. The river is lowest
in September, October, and November,
Ramadieh (11 hrs.), a large village and highest in May and June. In
with barracks. It is the headquarters flood-time the descent from Diarbekr
of the Delim Kaza, which derives its to Mosul takes 4} days, and from
nomo from a lurgo and wealthy Arab Mosul to Baghdad from 8 to 4 days ;
tribe that has become agricultural, when the river is low the times are.
The road now lies over tho cultivated to Mosul 8 to 10 days, and thence to
plain, and for the last 4 hrs. over Baghdad, 10 to 12 days. Tho hire of
swampy grouud, to the Euphrates, a raft from Diarbekr to Baghdad is
which is here crossed by a ferry to about £T.5 in flood-time, and 101.
Feluja (9i hrs.), a wretched village on to 122. when the water is low. Tho
tho 1. bank. About 7 lira beyond rafts on completing their voyage are
Feluja wo psss numerous remains of broken up, and the raftsmen, Xefck/tJ,
ancient canals, and tho old briok return with their skins by land. This
mound of Akka Kuf (1.). In S| hrs. rnodo of navigation has beon in uso
inoro wo catch sight of tho gilded from tho earliest ages, and kdek rafts
domes of Kozimin, and the palm may be seen on the Assyrian baa-
groves of reliefs. When halting for tho night
the mooring rope is simply laid on
Baghdad (18 hrs., p. 301). the shore, and a small pile of stones
placed on it. The keldyts, who speak
Arabic and Kurdish, are ready, will-
ing men, and are well known at tho
villages along tho bank.
Below Diarbekr tho river runs in a
wide bed, through a valley about 1 in.
wido, nud there are sovcral islands.
Tho view from this portion of tho
river is bounded on the E. by tho
snow-capped mountains of Kurdistan,
and ooch sido of tho river in tho
, springtime is green and covered with
wild flowers. Tho banks are high
l»pd cpca$jo«ally woodpd, A f *0 r *0*
Digitized by ^.ooQle
301
Route 103. — Jeztre — Baghdad .
Reiving the batman Su (1.), which
rises in the mountains S.W. of Mash,
the Tigris runs in a narrow bat un-
broken channel between steep cliffs.
Passing Hatsan-keif, Raphe fp. 245),
with its rock-tombs and ruinea bridge,
we come to tho next large tribatary,
the Jlohtan Su (1A which was crossed
by the u Ten Thousand ” at Til
(p. 245). Here the valley is wider,
but below the junction the river
enters a sorgo of great grandeur and
beauty which continues to
Jssirs, fiezabde (p. 246). Hero tho
Tigris leaves the mountains and tho
line scenery ends. About J } m. below
the town are the remains of an old
bridge called Mr-i-Bafit, of which one
arch and tho piers are standing. Vil-
lages are now frequently seen on tho
banks, at first Kurd, then Chaldaean
and Yczidi. After passing tho mouth
of tho Khabur (1.) ; Baghluja Boghaz ,
where, for about 100 yds., the ohannel
is only 40 yds. wide, and the current
runs 5 m. an hour ; EM Mosul (rt.),
with an old fort on a mound and other
ruins ; and 8herif Khan , wo reach
Mosul (p. 293), whero tho river is
deep and runs with a slow current.
On the opposite bank are the mounds
of Kuyunjik and Nebi Yunus. Tho
Tigris between Baghdad and Mosul
Is a broad stream and its banks are
usually covered with dense junglo.
Tho climate in April is vory pleasant,
the sky being blue and the air dour.
About 20 m. below Mosul are the
ruins of an ancient dam across the
main ohannel, called Zikr-ul-Attaz^
made of square blocks of stone set in
cement, and about 20 yds. broad.
Rafts can always get over, but aro
much skaken and the skins disturbed.
Tho dam prevents the passage of
steamers to the upper waters. On the
rt. bank, a few milos inland, aro (ho
Bulphur springs of Jfammam Alt
(p. 307). Lower down are tho mounds
of NimtAd (1. p. 296), and the junction
of tho Great Zab (1.), which rises in
the hilly ranges of the Persian frontier
E. of Vun. Below the Zab the river
runs through the dcseVt, and we pass
the mounds of Ealeh Bhergat (rt.
L 306) ; the mouth of tho Lesser Zab,
b d-AsfaX (L); J. Hamrin ; the
Khadadia Islands ; Tekrlt (r.,p. 806),
where it is usual to change Kdelgis;
and
Imam Dor, on a low range of sand-
hills } ra. from the L mink. Tho
tomb of the Imam — a lofty whito
tower with conical roof— forms a pro-
minent landmark. The plaoe is ap-
parently the anct. Dura, where tho
Homan army attempted the passage of
the Tigris after the doath of Julian,
and where his successor signed a
treaty by which ho ceded Nisibis and
the provinces beyond the Tigris to tho
Persians. Lower down are tho ruins
of several towns and villages (rt.), and
then Samara (L p. 306), where a toll is
taken on passing boats, and baggalas
and htfas (p. 303) arc first socu on tho
river. Below Samara the Dojil canal
takes off rt, and lower down we pass
the mouth of the Nahr Adhem (1.),
and then Kaximin (rt. p. 303), whence,
amidst groves of date - palms and
orange-troos, tho raft floats down to
“ Hagdat's shrines of fretted gold,
High-walled gardens, green and old.”
Baghdad, tho capital of a vilSjot,
and headquarters of an army corps, is
built on both banks of the Tigris,
here 300 yds. wide, in an extensive
arid plain. On tho 1. bank, near tho
water’s edge, is the largest |»art of tho
dty with tho principal buildings,
bazars, Ac. On Uie rt. hank is ** Old
Baghdad,” now regarded os a suburb.
A good bridge of boats, approachtd
through narrow winding streets, con-
nects the two quarters of the city.
Baghdad is unrivnlled for position ami
fertility of soil ; yet tho environs aro
a desert, and a city that might be
the centre of trade for a continent is
sonk in povorty and decay.
History. — Baghdad, so familiar to
us as the city of Harftn er-Rashtd,
and as the home of 81ndbad the Sailor,
and other worthies of the Arabian
Eights, was founded (764-7) by the
Klialif cl-Mansftr. Tho site was ap-
Digitized by L^ooQle
302 Bouie 103 . — Baghdad .
pareutly occupied by an earlier Baby- Mustansir (1235); the Jam ? Muja -
Ionian town, for in 1848, when the ntya, near it, which, though modern,
.Tigris was unusually low, Sir H. contains some 14th century work ; the
Hawlinson found that tho rt. bank of Khaseki Jam?, dated 1681, whioh has
the rivor was lined with an embank- an interesting mthrab and some sculp-
mont of brickwork of tho time of turod work of tho early Khalifs ; and
Nebuchadnezzar. It became the the largo Dadd Pasha Jam? in the
capital of the Abbaside khalifs, and Meidan. Other buildings are the
is said to have been largely built out Medresse of d-Mustansir (1233) on the
of the ruins of Ctesiphon, about 18 m. L bank near the bridge ; the Khan
distant Harfin er-KashSd (786-809) d-Aurtmeh (1356), near the Jami*
adorned it with many fine buildings, Mujaniya ; the Tekke of the Belciash
and during his reign it attained its dervishes , in ruins, but having a fine
greatest splendour. It oontinued to Kufic inscription ; the Shrine of
flourish and increase until February, Abdul- Kadir (1252), which is much
1258, when it was stormed and pillaged, visited by A fghan pilgrims ; the Tomb
after a siege of two months, by the of Zobeide, wife of Harftn er-Rashid,
Mongols under llulagu, grandson of on tho rt. bonk, — an octagonal brick
Jonghiz Kh&n, who extinguished the structure, surmounted by a lofty coui-
dy nasty of the Abbasides. Baghdad cal roof, which was built in 827, but
was afterwards taken by|Timftr,(1400); often restored; dose to this tomb are
Kara Yusuf, chief of the Kara Koy- those of Maruf d-Kerkhi (1215) and
unlu (1417); Usum Kassim (1477); the prophet Elisha (Nehi Yusha). On
Shah Ismail I. (1516); Sultan Sulei- the L bank are fine barracks erected
man 1.(1544); Shah Abbas (1602); by Midhat Pasha; and on the same
and finally by Sultan Murad IV. side of the rivor local tradition points
(1638). In 1733 it was unsuccessfully out tho houso in which Hardn’s
besieged by Nadir Shall. favourite Ja’nfor, tho Barmecide, mot
The town. — Baghdad is perhaps the his death,
only Oriental town of its Bize tliat has Population. —Baghdad has never
no distinctive architectural character, quite recovered from tho plague of
The ravages of Hulagu and Tim dr 1830, which carried off about half its
have left few traces of the famed inhabitants. The population is now
magnificence of the capital of tho estimated at 100,000, including 2000
empire of the Khalifs. The modem Jewish and alxmt 800 Christian
town is hopelessly commonplace ; there families. Tho Moslems aro Sunnis
is nothing imposing in the intricate and Shias; and the Christians ore
alleys that serve as streets, in the Armenians, Clialdaeans, Jacobites, and
numerous khdns, or in the batdrs with Creeks. There is also a large Euro-
thoir vaults of brick. The shops are pean colony, chiefly English, who livo
well supplied with European goods, in good houses on tho river bank, near
chiefly through the enterprise of the British Agency. Some pensioners
Messrs. Lynch Bros., and Messrs, of the Indian Government reside at
Darby, Andrews & Co, There are Baghdad and Kerbela. Many Shias
many large cafis in the city. make Baghdad or one of the holy
The old walls of brick haye, except oities in the neighbourhood thoir
in a few places, been demolished, but permanent place of residence, so that
the great fosse remains, and there they may secure the advantage of
still stands the Bab d-TUim , “ Talis- burial by the side of Hussein at
manic Gate/ 1 bearing an Arabic in- Kerbela, or Ali at Ncjef (see Rto.
scription, dated 1220, which was 106).
walled up after Murad IY. reconquered There are many Moslem and Chris-
the city. The most interesting tian schools. Amongst the former is
mosques are : the Eski Jam?, of which one founded by Midhat Pasha (1870)
the minaret and part of the walls for poor children and orphans; and
belong to the original building of ol- amongst tho latter are the Carmelite
Digitized by ^.ooQle
308
Bouts 108.-
(French) school for boys, and the girls’
school of the French Sisters of 8.
Joseph. The Jews hare a High
School, for which they are indebted to
the liberality of Sir A. Sassoon; The
Church Missionary Society bare a
mission with resident medical ofllocr ;
and there is also a French Carmelite
Mission.
There is a British Agent and Consul*
General, who has an official residence
on the 1. bonk with a guard of Indian
native troops. There are also a
Persian Consul-General, and French
and Russian Consuls.
Climate. — From October to May
the climate is cool and invigorating ;
but in summer the heat is sometimes
intense, and all the houses have
terdabs, or underground rooms. In
June, July, and August, the thermo-
meter, with a N.W. wind, reads about
75° Fhl at daybreak, and 107° in the
hottest part of the day; with a S.
wind it has been known to read 112°
at daybreak, and 122° about 2 p.m.
The climate is, however, generally
healthy. The Baghdad button , similar
to that of Aleppo, is very prevalent
Every resident Suffers from it onoe in
their lifetime. It breakB out on any
part of the person, and obstinately
remains, an annoying but painless
sore for twelve months, when it dis-
appears. It is a capricious visitor.
Europeans have lived in the district
for 20 years without having been
attacked. On the other hand travellers
passing through the country, without
staying anywhere, have suffered. It
leaves on ugly scar for life. The cause
of the “ button ” is unknown, and no
remedy has yet been discovered. The
applicutiou of caustio appears to drive
it from one part of the body to
another. ! Iiioculation has been tried,
but the results have not yet been
qiiito satisfactory.
There are gardens in and near the
town In which pomegranates, grapos,
figs, olives, and dates grow in abun-
dance. • .
Trade.— Baghdad has a large tran-
sit trade, being the port for a large
portion of Persia, as well as for Meso-
potamia. :The principal exports are
-J Baghdad.
cereals, dates, wool, gum, rice, hides,
Ac. ; the imports are sugar, doth, iron,
copper, conee, indigo, Ac. Aba , a
common cloth like felt; kefiyehs;
yashmaks; copper utensils , Ac., are
largely manufactured. ' Babylonian
antiquities can occasionally be pur-
chased.
Tho old weights and measures are
Still in use. Tho Baghdad oke is 2}
Constantinople okes ; gold and silver
are weighed by the Turkish, and
by tho lighter Persian, miskal ; ' for
measurements of length three pike are
used, — the old Baghdad, the Hhalebi,
and the Persian. The gold and silver
coins of England, France, and Persia
are current in tho baz&rs.
Navigation. — Below Baghdad there
is a steamboat service conducted - by
two Companies, one Turkish, tho other
English. The Turkish Company
(Oman) has 5 steamers ; tho English,
Euphrates and Tigris Navigation Com-
pany (Messrs, Lynch Bros.), has three.
Both lines run a steamer once a week
from Baghdad to Basra. The English
Company is only allowed to employ
two stoamers at tho same time, and
is not permitted to send them above
Baghdad. Baggala, sailing vessels of
about 80 tons, are largely employed
and ascend as far as Samara. They
have a large lateen sail and clumsy
rudder, ana have to be tracked up
stream in adverse winds. Kuffa,
circular boats from 8 to 10 ft. in
diameter, not unlike coracles, aro
much used for the transport of horses,
cattle, and sheep. They are made of
pomegranate branches woven together
with rope, and plastered on tho out-
side with bitumen. Their use appears
to date from very early times.
Environs.— On the rt. bank of the
Tigris, about 3} m. from Baghdad, is
Xaiimin, called also Imam Musa,
from the tomb of the Imam Musa el-
Kazim, who was poisoned by liar An,
in the great mosque. It is the seat
of a kaimakam, and is connected
with . Baghdad by a tram line con-
structed (1870) when Midhat Pasha
was Vali. The mosque, which also
contains the tomb of tne Imam Hasson
Digitized by L^ooQle
304
Route 104 . — Belt Abbas .
el-Aafcari, is au object of deep vene-
ration to all Shias. The present
Shall of Persia, after his pilgrimage
in 1873, gilded the principal dome and
the roofs of the six minarets. Tho
tombs annually attract largo num-
bers of pilgrims. Tho population of
6000 includes 5000 Shias, who are
mostly Persian subjects.
On the L bank of the river, and
connected with Kazimin by a bridge
of boats, is the small town of Imam
d-Jawad , where there is a fine
mosquo containing the tombs of the
Imam, and of Ibn Hambal. Tho
tombs are much visited by Sunni as
well as by Shia pilgrims. A carriage-
road connects tho town with Bagh-
dad.
. Ctedvlion on the 1., or Sdeucia on
the rt. bank, can bo rcachod in about
hrs. by laud, or in 4 hrs. 20 min.
by steamer. See Rto. 109.
To the N. and N.E. ore many villages
along the Nahr Khaltu , a canal from
the Diala river. After crossing more
canals and irrigation channels, some
with difficulty, and passing Banal
Sustain, we arrive at Zedaida (5 hrs.,
khdn). Thonoo wo travel over similar
country to Tamila f5$ hrs.), and
follow the rt. bank of the deep canal,
Nahr Klialas, to Muhammad Seraya ,
and
Deli Abbas (5} hrs.). Here there is
a bridge over the canal, and tho road
is joined by a track from Baghdad
vid Bakulia. 3 hrs. beyond Deli
Abbas we enter tho Mosul Vilftyot at
Suenna, and then cross J. Ilamrin,
600 ft. above the plain, to tho Narin,
a tributary of tho Diala, over which
thero is a bridge. Thenco across tho
plain to Kara-tepe (9 hrs., Hamavand
Kurds), and over slightly undulating
grouud past several villages to
ROUTE 104.
BAQHDAD-KERKUK-ERBIL—
MOSUL.
Hits.
Pell Abbot . ... Ti
Kifri m
Kirkuk . . . . .
AUun Keuprl , . . . • 9
Krbil (Arbela) .... 10
Mt«ul
This route forms part of the great
line of communication from the Per-
sian Gulf, vid Baghdad, Mosul,
Diarbekr, Kbarput, and Sivas, to
Samt&n on the Black Sea.
Leaving Baghdad by the B&b el-
Muazem, we pass the palm groves of
Muazem (1.) and cross several irri-
gation canals before reaching Jtdaida
(6 lirs-X a small village, with khan
and post station, in a palm grove.
Kifri or Salahich (7\ bra, Kurds
and Arabs), at the mouth of a small
gorge. It is tho sout of a kuiinukuui,
and a military post ; and there arq a
small bazar and a few gardens.
[(i.) Kifri — Karman-thah. An easy
road, running S.E., crosses the Diala
to Kasr-i-Shirin (20 lire.), whence
Rte. 115 is followed to Karman-shah
(28* fare.).
(li.) Kifri — Suleimanieh (36 lire.).
A bridle-path and the shortest route from
Baghdad to Suleimanieh. Wo first
ascend the valley of the Chechapan, and
then cross to Ibrahim Khanii (10 lire.),
in the valley of the Ah Hu (Kurdish Av-
i-tpi). 5| hrs. further we pass through
a gap in a sandstone ridge and travel by
Kalachuk (ruined fort), uud a giaret to
(Jeuk Tept (9 lire.). In 1 hr. we
reach the foot of the Kara D., and, after
crossing it by the Zagirme Bel , 4480 ft.,
pass through the narrow cleft Tang-i-
kalakh to Temar (6 hre.). Thence a
climb of 1 hr. brings us to the summit
of the Gilztrda D ., 8670 ft., and, after
a descent of 1 hr., we reach the (SAeAri-
tor Ova, a fine plain over which the road
runs to Suleimanieh (11 hre., p. 828).]
From Kifri a gross plain extouds
Digitized by Tooele
Route 104. — Kirkuk — Erbil. 305
almost to Tuz-Khurmati (8 lire.), tho
seat of a mndir, and a military post.
Near it are salines and naphtha
springs. Dates ( IJiurma i) grow well.
The rood now lies ovor undulating
ground, and aftor fording the Kuru
Choi, and passing Tell Zen (large
mound 1.) and several villages rt. and
L, wo cross the Tatik Su, about } hr.
boforo reaching TaUk (7 hre., polioo
post). After orossing several tribu-
taries of the Nahr Adhcm, and passing
many Tillages (rt and L) we reach
Kirkuk (8J lire.), alt 1100 ft., on
the Kissa Chai, tho headquarters of
the Sliobrizor Senjak, and on im-
imrtant military station. On tlio 1.
bank of tho river, which is crossed by
a brick bridge of 12 arches, is an
artificial mound, about 130 ft. high,
which is surmounted by the citadel.
At the foot of the mound is the
town, but the official residences are
on the rt. bank in tho Koria quarter,
whoro thoro are extensive gardens
and palm groves. In on6 of tho
niosques is tho tomb of Ananias, Aza-
riah, and Mishoel, which is much vono-
rated by Moslems and Jews. Out-
sido tho town is the old Ch. of Mar
Tamasghar , which is said to contain
relics of early martyrs— possibly of
somo of those who suffered in the
3rd and 4th centuries, when the
Christians were fiercely persecuted
by the Persians. There ore a fair
bazar and several khans. Arab horses
are bought hero for export to India.
The population of about 10,000 con-
sists of Kurds, Turkomans, Jews,
and a few Christians.
[A’tY&tcX: to StUeimOnieh (22 hrs.).
There is an easy road by Cnemchemal
(10 hre.), a military post to the Bazian
pane (2f hrs.). whence Rtc. 118 (2.) is
followed to Sufcimanieh (P$ hre.).J
About 1 hr. after leaving Kirkuk
we pass some naphtha springs which
are worked for local use; and some
2 hire, afterwards cross the Gogur D.,
1580 ft, which separates the waters
of the Adhem from those of the Lesser
[Turkey.}
Znb. Tho way thon lies ovor the
plain to
Altun-keupri (9 hrs., Kurd), alt.
1000 ft, a small thriving town on an
island in tho Lesser Znb, and seat of
a kaimnkam. Tho island is con-
nected with the banks by bridges,
with high-pitched arches, built by
Murad IV. Tho town owes its name,
“ golden bridge,” to tho ruddy colour
of one of theso bridgos. G hrs. after
leaving Altun-keupri wo cross a barely
perceptible watershed between tho
Lesser and Greater Zab, and pass
Kara-chanah (rt) 2 hre. boforo reach-
ing
Erbil, Arbela (10 hrs.), the seat of
a kaimakam, a military |>ost and an
important road centre. Most of the
town is built oh nn artificial mound
which rises 100 ft. abovo the plain,
and is crowned by the ruins of a
castle. The outer houses are so built
as to form a continuous line of defenoe,
and tho streets within it are narrow,
winding, and dirty. .Water is supplied
by a kartt 9 or underground channel.
The population includes a Jewish
community, but there are ho Chris-
tians.
Arbela t whore Darius left his bag-
gage and treasure when ho advnneod
to meet Alexander, gave its name
to the battle in which the Persian
monarch was defeated. Tho actual
battle-field, however, was near Gau-
gamela, on the bonks of the Dumodus
(p. 294), to tjie N.W. beyond the Great
Zab. Arbela suffered terribly during
tho Mongol invasion and tho troubled
period that followed, and in l3l() tho
Christian population was extermi-
nated.
From Erbil tho road runs W. to
Girdashir and the ferry over, the
Great Zab at Kodak (7 hre.). Tho
river is about 150 yds. wide when
low, and nearly 2 m. in flood time.
The passage is always rather difficult ;
travellers and loads cross in the ferry-
boats, and the animals generally swim.
In some seasons, late in the year,
the river is fordable. Beyond the
Zab, we pass NimrCtd (1.), and follow
x
Digitized by i^ooQle
306
Route 105 . — Samara — Kaleh Shergat.
iho track through Karaudea , or that shriue of the Tmam is annually Tinted
through Burtdla to tho mounds of by about 30,000 pilgrims. Returning
Nineveh and to the rt. bank we keep about 2 m.
from the river, seeing no villages, but
Mosul (101 hrs. f p. 203). passing Imam Dur (d. 301) on the 1.
lank, about 4 hrs. before roaching
ROUTE 105.
BAQHDAD-TEKRIT-M08UL.
uus.
Samara 34
Tekrtt (Birika) . .10
Kaleh Shergat (Attar) • .26
Ham main All . . • .16
Mogul • . . .8
After orossing to the rt. bank, by
tho bridgo of bouts, tho way lies along
the Tigris through Kazimin to Sheruit
d-Beida. Here It leaves the river and
crosses uncultivated ground to Khdn
Suediap (7 hrs.), and Sumekche(6 hrs.),
situated amidst date and fig groves
that are watered by runlets from the
Dujail canal. Following the canal
for 2 hrs. we pass Belad, and 5) hrs.
farther strike the Tigris again near
the ruins of JdabUat. In 31 hrs. more
we reach the bridge of boats that
leads to
Samara (11 hrs.), the seat of a kai-
makam, on the L bank, about 11 m.
from the river. Samara was founded,
eire. a.d. 834, by the Khalif el-
Motasim, son of Harfin er-Rashtd,
and it became his favourite residence,
and that of several of his successors.
There are some remains (brick and
mud) of the palace of the khalifa. In
the Great Motaue is shown the terdab
in which the 12th Imam, Muhammad
el-Mahdi, is said to have disappeared
— to come again, according to Moslem
belief, with Christ at the end of the
world. The population is about 500
Sunnis, and 2000 Shias ; and the
Tekrit, Birtha (10 hrs.), a small
town on some low cliffs on the rt. hank.
It was formerly a place of great im-
portance, and is famous as the birth-
place of Sulah-ed-diu. On a cliff over
the river are the remains of the citadel,
which was protected by a broad deep
ditch, once filled by the Tigris. It
was provided with a covered stairway
leading to the river, and, until stormed
by Timfir (1393), was considered im-
pregnable. Little of the old town is
left. The modern town has a small
trade with Hit, about 80 m. across the
desert Birtha is said to have been
founded by Aloxandor. It was un-
successfully attacked by Sapor (300),
who was compelled to retire with
great loss. In tho 12th centy. it was
the rotfidonoo of a Jacobi to bishop.
lioyoud Tekrit tlio country is inoro
barren, and after passing an old castle,
Kaleh Mekran (8} hrs.), the plain is
broken by many watercourses. Tho
road afterwards leaves the Tigris and
runs through a waterless district at
the foot of J. Hamrin, which inter-
venes between the traveller and the
river. After crossing the end of the
rango wo reach tho Tigris again near
Kaleh Shergat, A$sur (16) hrs.),
the headquarters of one of the divi -
sions of the Shammar Arabs. The
mounds on the site of the earliest
capital of Assyria are larger than
those of Nimrud (p. 296), and inscribed
cylinders of an early date, including
a long one of Tiglatn Pileser I., have
been found in them.
[From Kaleh Shergat it is a day’s
journey inland to sl-Hadhr ( el-Hathr ),
where are the remarkable ruins of Atrae
or Ifatrae, the chief town of the Atreni,
which was unsuccessfully besieged by
Trajan and Scverus. The ruins are en-
closed by a circular wall of great thick-
ness, with towers of large square-cut
Digitized by Tooele
307
Route 106 . — Hillah— Babylon.
stone*. Outside the wall is a broad and
very deep ditch, and, about 100 yds.
beyond it. a thick rampart, now only a
few feet nigh. The space within the
wall is rather more than 1 m. in diameter,
aad in its centre are the ruins of a palace
enclosed by a strong thick square wall
with towers. The other remains are
principally those of dwelling houses.
■ The ruins are considered by Layard to
. belong to the Sassanian period. Mr.
Phcnd Spiers is inclined to attribute the
; palace to Parthian workmanship. Kl-
: lladhr is striking from its weird desola-
tion, which* gives it the appearance of
one of the enchanted cities of the Arabian
Nights. The “Greek fire” used with
• such effect against the siege-implements
, of Scvertts is supposed to navo been the
i naphtha or petroleum so common in the
neighbourhood. From el-Hadhr there
is a direct rood to Mosul in 14 hrs.
across the desert.]
i Travelling over fair country near
the river we pass the mouth of the
: Great Zab (L bank) in 10} hrs.. and
about 2} hrs. further reach Minora
and othor villages, near which there
i is a forry to Nimrftd. Hero we turn
inland to
Hammam All (15 hrsA where tlioro
nro hot tulphnr xpringe that are much
resorted to in summer. The water is
slightly salt, and threads of bitumen
i como to the surface with it. Near
the springs are a tumulus and the
ruins of a church. All the ground
around is saturated with bitumen,
sulphur, and salt; and not far off is a
i very abundant spring of petroleum.
From the springs we follow “a good
1 rood past a few villages to
* Mosul (8 hrs., p. 203 ). !
i ...
, ROUTE 106 .
BAGHDAD — HILLAH — KERBELA
— MESHED ALI.
KBS.
HUUh (Babylon) . . . lftft
Meshed All . . . «*
Kcrbela IS
Baghdad 17
Horses can be hired in Baghdad
for the trip. Travellers visiting
Babylon only can do so in carriages.
A tent is useful, as the khan* ore
generally crowded with pilgrims, and
unoomfortablo. In some places a
small kahveh can bo hired for tho
night for a moderate sum.
From Baghdad it is 4 hrs. to
Khan ex-Zad (dismantled) and 1} hrs.
further to Khdn Mahmddieh. Wo then
E Khdn Birmnut (disused) ; and,
before reaching Khdn Haewar (8}
), the direct read to Kerbola turns
off rt. 1} hrs. beyond KbAn Haswar is
Khdn Nuerieh, and in another 1) hrs.
we pass Khdn MahawiL, beyond which
wo soon catch sight of tho mounds of
Babylon. Making a dftour to cross
a canal bridge we reach the northern
mound, BdbU^ in 3 hrs. more ; and
thence it is 2 hrs. to
mumh (8 hrs.), the oapital of a
Sanjak, and a military station, with
barracks and hospital. The Euphrates
divides the town into two quarters,
which are connected by a bridge of
boats. The houses, almost hidden
in groves of date-palms and citron,
are largely built of bricks from the
surrounding ruins. Hillah is the
modern representative of the famous
city of
Babylon, which, according to Hero-
dotus, formed a vast square, of which
each side was 120 stadia, or about
14 m. The Euphrates ran through
the city, and its banks were lined with
quays. Tho whole area was sur-
rounded by two walls, and on either
Digitized by ^.ooQle
308 Route 100 .-r+Babylon. >
bnnk of Uie river were minor forlifl- Euphrates, arc a number of remark-
cations. Within the walls were large able metonds, but the most interesting
gardens and fields, and the placo points arc near B&bil on the L bank
rcsomblcd an entrenched camp rather and Birs Nimrftd on the rt. bank,
thun a city. On both banks of tho Bdbil t a muss of unbaked brick-
work, about 140 ft. high, has been which probably marks tho sito of tho
identified with tho temple of Bolus toinpleof Nebuchadnezzar. Tho walls,
\Etaqila of the inscriptions) ; all tho which are of burnt brick, stamped
insenbod bricks boar the uaino of with tho name and titles of that
Nebuchadnezzar. 8. of this is a line monuroh, contain traces of arohitec-
of rampart, and then the Kasr , au tural ornament, and pieces of cua-
irregular square pf about 700 yards^ melled brick of brilliant hues havq
Digitized by
Google
309
lloxUe 1 0 O.^-Kufd — Nejp.f.
beta found. 8. 6f the Kasr is a lofty
mound, perhaps marking the site’ of !
on ancient palace, on which stand*
the tomb of Amram tbn Ali.
Bin Nimr&dj about 2} lira, from
Hill ah, ia a yaat ruin, M crowned appa- '
rently by the ruina of a tower rising
to a height of 153J ft above tho
plain, and having a ciroutaforenoe of
rather more than 2000 ft.”’ Tho Bir*,'
which was aitnatod Within tho city of
Bonripna, haa Inxm wrongly identified 1
with the Tower of BalioL It ia the'
great temple of Nebo, called the
** Temple of the aeven spheres ' of
Heaven And Earth,'* and was a sort
of pyramid built in seven Stages, the
stairs being ornaniontod with tho
planetary colours, and oh the seventh
was an ark or tabernacle'. Tho Birs
was destroyed by Xerxes and restored
by Antiocnus 8oter. ■ Thh Tower of
Babel was possibly the Eeogila of the
inscriptions, or the Etemenanaki,— a
tower not yet identified. Not far
from Birs Nimrfid are the ruins of
llathmnich, tho first residence of the
Abbnstdo khalifa.
Jtnhylnn % tho capital of tho Idnd of
8hinar(Gon. x. 10), first came into
prominence about b.o. 2282. In later
times it owed most of its splendour to
Nabopolossar, and his sod Nebnchad-f
nessar.' It whs " taken by' Tiglath
Pileser I. (b.o. : 1120-^1 100) ; by8argort
(b.o. 712) ; by Cyrus (b.o. 589); and
by Alexander (b.c. 88). When So- 1
leucia was built it rapidly doclined;
and became little more than a village.
N.E. of Babylon ia Tell ' Jbrahiml
anct. Cuthah , whence Shalmaneser
brought colon ists into Samaria (2
Kingsxvii. 24-80). It hhd a temple of
Nergal, which was repaired by Nebti-
chadncxzar. i ? »»* 1 • t '
‘ From Hillah ft ia 2| hra.‘ to Bin
Nimr&d, but in April a marshy lake
makes a long detour necessary. The
traveller who wiahofc to visit Meshed
All; can proceed direct from tlio Birs
to Xefil (6} hrs. from Hillah), a arhall
town, the seat of a mudir, on the 1.
bonk of the Hindi eh Canal. Here is
an ancient synagogue containing the
traditional tomb of Exekiel (Nebi
Efhiel ), which is visited by many
Jewish and Moslem pilgrims nt
Penteioost each year. There are
several kh&nt and kahveh$ , and a
“ shaking” minaret which sways when
struck. TThe population, about 2500,
includes 1500 Shias and 500 Jews.
< Xufa (4j lira.), built a.d. 639, was
ono of tho most celebrated cities of
Isl&m, but is now a small village
gathered round tho Great Moeaue, in
front of whioh Ali was assassinated,
(a.d. 660) on his WAy to offor public
prayer. It was famous os a centre of
learning,, and .-gave its name to tho
characters in which the earliest copies,
of the Kur&n wore written the dia-
critical points arc also said to be nn
invention of the professors in its
schools. ’ Not far from Kufa was
Voloania, one { of the capitals of. the,
Parthian powqr. . • j
. ■ •
‘ ltejef 1 (14 hrs.), better known as
Meshed All, being tho burial-place of
AH, son-in-law of Mohammad and first
Imam, Who was innrdcrcd at Kuf*.:
It is tho boat of a knimakmn and
stands on the N. shore of the Lako of
Nejof. The town is surrounded by
lofty walls, and has three gates, which
are closed At sunset The Shin towns-
men, who are hourly all connected with
thb mosque, or students in the ntfe-
dre$*et, allow no stranger to settle
within their gates ; and the few Sunni*
ire Government officials or soldiers.
Water is supplied by a conduit inode
At the cost of an Indian lady. The
ohly ihotque ii that which encloses the
tomb of Ali. It is in the Oentre of a
large Rectangular court, tho walls of
which are covered internally with
beautifully ornamented encaustic tiles,
enHched with gilding, and inscriptions
frbm the Kur&n.' The mausoleum ife
sqdaro and surmounted by a gilded
dome. At tho four comers ard inina-
rols covered with gilt tiles. In front
of the door is a fountain of polished
brsiB. Seen from a distance, with
thb bright bun shining on it. the tomb
resemble* a dome of gold. Christie ns
are not permitted to enter it ; but the
interior is said to be of surpassing
Digitized by ^.ooQle
810
Route IQG.-t -Kerbela.
richness. The striking appearance of M shirting/' on which verses of the
the town and mosque rising out of the i Kurin are stamped with wood blooks.
desert is, however, sufficient induce- The Great Mosque which contains
ment for a visit. Nejef replaced the the remains of Hussein, , who was.
older Hira which submitted to Khalid, barbarously murdered after the fatal
who . 44 took it by treaty " (a.d. 638). battle of Kerbcla (a.d. C80), is
On the W. shore of the lake are venerated by Sunnis and Shias alike,
ruins called Kasr er-Kahabeh. From Tho dome and six minarets of this the
Nejef a road, on which are several wealthiest of Shia shrines are plated,
kh&us. leads to Kerbela (15 hrs., see with gold, but not so richly as those
below). of Meshed Ali. There are some fine
The traveller who intends visiting tiles at the gateways, and within
Kerbela only should return from Birs the building. A second mosque^ in
Nimrfid to Hillah, and, after following which is the tomb of an Imam named
the Baghdad road back to Kb&n Abbas, is also a fine building, but
Mahawil, turn to the 1. The Euphrates not to be compared with the Great
is reaohed near the tomb of Mq- Mosque. Europeans are not allowed
ham mad ibn Hassan, and crossed by to enter either, but the gateways
a bridge Of boats to MuseUek (7 hrs. may be seen during a ramble through
from Hillah). Here there is a large the town. Untola wealth has been
khan, but it is generally crowded with poured • into the treasuries of the
picturesquely dressed pilgrims from mosques at Kerbela and Nqjef ; when
Persia and India, and a tent or kahveh they were opened for the inspection
will be found preferable. A little of the present Shah of Persia during
below Museileh the great Hindieh his pilgrimage they were found to
oanul takes off, made, according to contain gifts of priceless value from
tradition, by some unknown Indian many generations of the 8ultans,
prince. After crossing some marshes Shahs, and Prinoes of Turkey, Persia,
we pass the tomb of Nebi Ja/a , where and India. The treasuries are in
many pilgrims stop to pray, and enter charge of treasurers ( KUitdar ), who,
tho fine palm groves of the sacred though they receive . no . salaries,
oity of become wealthy from the gifts of the
pilgrims. There are in the town a
Kerbela (6J bra.), also known . as principal medresse t under the spiritual
Meshed Hussein , from the tomb of the head ( Mushtehed ) of the Shias, and
martyred Hussein, son of Ali and minor fnedressss under Mollqhs. From
third Imam. It is the ehief town of a these latter come the men ( Akund )
sanjak, and has a population of about with enormous turbans who go about
65,000, of whioh over 54,000 are Shias. collecting tithes from tho tribes
Most of the Shias are Persian or between Baghdad and Basra.
British Indian subjects, whose interests The pilorimage to the 44 Holy
are looked after by a Persian Consul Places ” which Is incumbent upon
and a British Consular Agent. The every Shia during his lifetime, and
large number of Persians, who un- tho strong desire of every follower of
willingly submit to Persian rulo, has Ali to bo buriod near tho last resting*
led to sevoral outbreaks, of which, the plooo of ono of the Imams, especially
last occurred in 1842; they have also near the tombs of Ali and Hussein,
the reputation of being fanatical. The give rise to strange scenes and curious
town though increasing annually is employments. . Largo caravans of
insufficient for the crowds of pilgrims pilgrims, bearing with them corpses
who flock to worship at tho shrine of to be buried in the sacred ground, aro
Hussein. There are two industries constantly arriving at Kerbela and
at Kerbela; the manufacture of the Nejef from Persia and other places,
bricks (torta) which every Shia uses The poorer pilgrims march, the
during his daily prayer (namat) ; and wealthier travel in litters (takht-i-
the preparation of shroud* — pieces of ravan\ or in boxes ( mahafi ) slung, so
Digitized by L^ooQle
311
Route 107 . — Bagdad to Damascus.
as to balance, on either side of a mule
or camel. The corpses of the wealthy
are carried in litters escorted by
moUah$ % who chant prayers for the
dead os they march ; those of persons
of smaller moons ore pocked in cases,
two of which form a load for a mule.
The appearance of one of these long
caravans descending the rough paths
that lead down from tho Persian
nlatoau, or wonding its way over tho
Mosopotomion flats, is peculiarly
striking. On reaching the outskirts
of the Holy Places, the caravans holt,
unload their gruesome cargoes, and
E repare the dead for final sepulture.
tittle attention is paid to tho art of
embalming in Persia, and the as-
sembly of crowds of pilgrims under
such insanitary conditions is a con-
stant source of danger. Some control
is exercised by the sanitary service of
Baghdad, but it is mcro from good
fortune than care that serious epi-
demics are comparatively rare. Each
pilgrim on entering Turkish territory
pays a toll of P.10, and each corpse
P.50. Tho Government charges for
permission to bury vary from F.500,
for interment in the sacred precints,
to P. 31} for burial ;in the plain out-
side either town. These amounts,
however, aro enormously increased by
the extortionate demands of the staff
of the moeaue from the kilitdor down-
wards; ana the funeral of a wealthy
man has been known to cost, including
carriage of corpse, as much as £T.5000.
Tho burial or so many bodies gives
employment to a large number of
peoplo at Kerbela and Kejef. One of
tho most curious customs connected
with the pilgrimages is tho presenta-
tion of the pilgrim to the dead Imam
by a mosque official ( mezaver ), who
makes a flowery speech of greater or
less length according to the wealth of
the person. Each M Holy Plaoe ” has
its proper days of pilgrimage; those
of Kerbela being 10th Muharrem (tho
anniversary of Hussein’s death), 20th
Befer, 1st to 15th Rejeb, 15th Snaban.
the nights of the 19th, 21st, and 23rd
Ramazan, and the 9th Zilhneh. The
representation (1st to 10th Muharrem)
of tho trogio ovonts that preceded and
followed the battle of Kerbela, on the
battlefield itself, is very intorerting.
From Kerbela the traveller can
proceed to Meshed All in 15 hrs. (see
above), or return by Khdn Iskanderteh
(8J hrs.) to Baghdad (8} hrs.).
ROUTE 107.
BAGHDAD TO DAMASCUS.
(1.) The desert route, followed by
the post, should not be attempted by
ordinary travellers. It is fatiguing,
monotonous, and sometimes dangerous.
The route requires to bo varied accord-
ing to the movement of .hostile tribes,
and it often happens that the usual
wells aro thus missed, and the tra-
veller may be for 8 or 4 days without
water. The fatigue of riding over a
parched desert under a burning sun
lor. 8, 10, or 12 hrs. at a stretch, and
then of lying on tho hard ground at
night, weary and wayworn, exposed to
the chill blast, without sufficient food
or covering, is such as few men can
endure. It is much pleasanter, ami
more interesting, to travel via Palmyra
by (2.) or (8.) ; or to follow Rte. 102
to Aleppo.
Under favourable circumstances,
with good dromedaries, tho distance
is accomplished in about 9 days, but
delays often oocur, and it is safer to
calculate on 1 1 or 1 2 days. Travellers
are not allowed to aooompany the
mail, but a bakhshish generally over-
comes difficulties. Bedawi dress
should be worn to avoid attracting
attention, and the less luggago the
better. Provisions that do not require
cooking, and some brandy should be
taken, with a little coffee and rice to
be used when it is safe to light a fire.
Water is carried in goat skins, but a
folt-covorcd wnter-bottlo will bo found
Digitized by L^ooQle
312
Bottle 108. — Niffer-
a great convenience. The camels
inarch from 1C to 19 hrs. out of the
24, and tho halts aio so arranged as
never to allow a continuous rest of
more than 2, or, at the most, 4 hrs.
Rte. 102 is followed to Hit The
road afterwards lies through an im-
mense tract of sandy plains, hills, and
▼alloys, barren, or producing only
prickly shrubs and a tall feathery
rass which tho camels eat, wan-
ered over by numerous tribes, of
which the Auazeh are the most im-
portant. Sometimes a aluizu or
plundering expedition of the Sham-
mer, or other invading tribes, may
be met with. The worst that cau
happen to anyono who gives no pro-
vocation is to bo plundered and Wo
his camels; but if proper inquiries bo
mado before the journey, and due
precautions taken while on it, the
chances of such an accident are very
slight iudeed.
(2.) By Hit and Palmyra. — In
making this journey it will be well
to arrange at Baghdad, through tho
British Consul-General, for an escort
and the requisite dromedaries, with
the Ageil Arabs, who have for a
long period onjoyed tho right of es-
cort ing caravaus across tho desert,
and have made arrangements to that
effect with the Anazoli and othor
grout tribes, llsuully there is uot
much difficulty in the journey, but
everything will depend upon the
state of the Bedawiii. Spring and
autumn are the best seasons, and
especially the former, for then both
pasturage and water are abundant,
and the country is full of Arabs, who
will generally welcomo the traveller
to their tonts.
The usual route is to cross tho
Euphrates at Hit (see ltte. 102).
Here the desert proper is ontored — a
vast undulating regiou of low, naked
hills, and shallow valleys oquully
naked, utterly destitute of any features
to attraot attention. The monotony
is painful, from the moment oue leaves
the banks of the Euphrates till lie
sees on the distant horizon tho old
Saracenic castle that overlooks tho
— VParlca-^Mukeir.
ruins of Palmyra. Etfcn animal life
disappears, except occasionally a little
troop of gazelles, or a vulture hovering
over tho remains of a camel that has
fallen. After a weary ride of 10 or
1 2 days, according lo the pace, Palmyra
is reached, and proves a veritable
oasis.
For a. description of Palmyra and
the road thence to Damascus, see
Handbook for Syria and Palettine.
(8.) By Deir or ItaklM. — Follow
Rte. 102 to Deir, or Rakko, and from
Deir the route by Palmyra, on p. 291).
From Rakko travel by Rosafa (11 hrs.) ;
Dera’at (18 lira.); Kastal (10 bra);
Kurictcin (about 2 days) ; Damascus
(2 days).
ROUTE 108.
BAGHDAD TO NIFFER, WARKA, AND
MUKEIR.
From Baghdad excursions may bo
mado through southern Babylonia
and Uhaldaca. Nearly tho whole
region between the Euphrates and
Tigris S. of Baghdad is marshy and
inhabited by local Arab tribes who
subsist by rice cultivation, and own
vast herds of buffaloes. They are
a wild race, given to plunder, and
arrangements for travelling amongst
them should bo made at Basra, or
at Naturieh , tho chief town of tho
Muntafik Sanjak. Tho most impor-
tant tribo is the Muntafik, which has
been brought under somo kind of
control ; it is dcsirablo to establish
friendly relations with tho sheikhs.
Tho Muntafik and other marah trilies
livo chiefly in reed huts, and use a
long narrow l»oat ( beltini ), which is
paddled or poled. Tho best season
for exploring this region is early
spring, for in summer tho heat is
intense, and in autumn tho malaria
from the marshes is dangerous.
The principal places of interest arc,
Digitized by L^ooQle
318
Houle 100 . —
in addition to Babylon, tho mounds
of Nifler {Nippur). They lio about
80 m. 8. of Babylon, and arc described
by Layard (Nineveh) and Ijoftus
(Ckaldaea and Susiana). About 60 m.
farther 8., near the 1. l*wk of the
Euphrates, are tho ruins of Warka,
the ancient Ereeh (Gen. x. 10). It
appears to have been a neat primeval
cemetery. It is described by Ixrftus.
and also by Mr. Vaux (Nineveh ana
Persepolie). About 40 ra. farther 8.,
on the rt. bank of the Euphrates, are
the mounds of Mukcir, the site of
Ur of the Chaldees, discovered and
described by Uoftus.
At Ur Loftus found inscribed
cylinders and bricks of the greatest
historical importance. It was evB
dently one of the earliest settlements
in Chaldaea, and l>oth hero and at
Warka thorough excavation might
bring to light many precious records
of primeval times.
ROUTE 109.
BAGHDAD— &A8RA-MUHAMMERAH.
AVKRAUK TIMK8 BY KTKAMRIt.
Down Rtrram. Ur Rtrram.
Baghdad . .
Nahr Dials .
HNS. MIN.
.
II NS. MIN.
3 16
‘ 1 SO
— .
5 0
Tak-I-Kma .
. 2 30
—
6 30
Baghdarileh .
Amtell . .
. 4 0
— .
3 4ft
. 1 45
— .
8 0
Hughe la . .
. ft 9
—
7 0
+Kut ei-Atnara
. 4 30
—
11 0
All el-flbarbl .
. 1 7 40
6 46
AH Kali-Shark I
. 4 0
—
0 15
+Amam . .
. 4 15
—
11 30
Exra'S Tomb .
. 6 60
4 1ft
fKtirna . .
t 3 0
—
6 30
Basra , . .
. 4 80 .
—
, “
< Total . ,
. : i
/ 48 60
78 46
+ Regular Stations.
The English Euphrates and Tigris
8. N. Co. t and the Turkish Oman
Talc-x-Rctrti.
Cb., each run a steamer once a week
from Baghdad to Basra and from
Basra to Baghdad. The steamers
stop regularly at certain stations and
at others where there are passengers
or freight. When tho river is high
they run during tho night, when it is
low they stop at sunset.
Below Baghdad and as far as tho
mouth of the Nahr Diala , the banks
are lined with date groves, and beyond
these is much cultivated land. Steam-
ing down tho river we pass Qarara ,
where there is a bridge of boats much
used by pilgrims to Kerbela and
Nojef, ana about 20 min. later tho
mouth of tho Diala (L). A little above
the junction the Baghdad — Kut ol-
Amara road crosses the Diola by (i
bridgo of boats.
Tak-i-Kesra, or Salman Pak, Ctesi-
plum, on tho l. bank. One magnificent
ruin of Ctosiphon, visible from afAr,
remains intact — the facade and
gigantic vaulted haU of the palace
erected under the Areacidae and em-
bellished by the Baesanisn monarchs.
Near at hand is the tomb of Bolman
(Suleiman) Pak, who is said to have
been the barber of Muhammad : it is
much visited by pilgrims. English
sailors, confounding names and things,
have transferred this designation to
the vaulted hall aud anglicised it
into “Solomon’s Porch.” Ctesiphon
rose on the decay of Seleucia, as that
city had upon tho fall of tho earlier
capital, Babylon. It was tho winter
residence of the Parthian kings, and
the magnificence for which it was
famed is attributed to the Parthian
Pacorus. Under the early Sassanian
kings it was a place of great import-
ance. The city and the palace were
plundered by the Arabs shortly after
the battle of Kadesla (635).
On the rt. bank lio the extensive
ruins of Seleucia^ tho Greek capital
that preceded Ctosiphon. It was
founded by Seloucus Nicator, and
during its best days had a population
of 500,000. It was partially burnt
during the campaign of Trajan, and
was further destroyed during the war
with Vologcses. At the dato Of
Digitized by ^.ooQle
314
Route 109 . — Kut el-Amara — Basra.
Severus* campaign it was already distinguish it from Imam Ali eth-
abandoned ana desolate. Sharhi , a small shrine lower down on
Below the ruins, now only known the 1. bank,
to the Arabs os d-Modein — the two
cities — we pass Jumiea (rt.), a recent Amara (1.), a thriving town founded
settlement; Baghdadieh t a mud fort about 1 863 as tho capital of tlio Amara
in ruins; Azizteh (L), a small place, Bonjak. It is a military post, and
the seat of a kaimokam ; Bughela (rt.), steamboat station ; has a well-supplied
and reach bazar ; and is connected with the rt.
bank by a bridge of boats. The popu-
Kut el-Amara, i.e. “ Kut of the lotion consists of Moslems, Sabaeans,
Amir ” (1.), tho seat of a kaimokam Jews, and a few R. Catholics. There
and u military post. It is a thriving is a large grain oxport ; and a trado
place, and a steamboat station at route runs from the town to Dizful
which much grain is shipped. The (p. 331), in Persia. Just above Amara
population consists of Arabs, Lurs, a branch of the Kerkha river, called
and a few Jews. The leata extends d-Hud, joins the Tigris,
to the Persian frontier, and tho Beni Below Amara wo enter the great
Lam Arabs who live between the marshes of the Tigris where, in spring,
town and the Pusht-i-Kuh give much little is visible but reeds and sedges,
trouble. There is a caravan road from We pass Abu Saijan (rt.), a small
Baghdad to Kut which crosses the grove of trees with a ziaret, and
Diala by the bridge of boats near its Shatra d- Amara (1.), generally known
mouth. Opposite Kut the Shatt el- as Kaleh Saleh from the stronghold of
Hat , a large canal, leaves the Tigris, the Sheikh of the Albu Muhammad
and Hows S. to the Euphrates neur tribe, on the site of which it is built
Suk esh-Sliiukh. Tho canal is navig- It bus a \topxtUdion of Moslems, Ba-
uble from February to June, and is boeans, and Jews. Lower down wo
then much used for the transport of enter a narrow winding channel called
corn from the rich distriot through “ the narrows,” and then steam past
which it passes. In the dry season d-Uzeir, Ezra’s tomb (rt), a place
there is a route through the Muntaiik much visited by Jewish pilgrims, to
country from the rt. bank opposite Kut.
It runs by Hat (7 hrs.), the ruins of Kama, on the rt. bank of the Tigris
Hat d-Watit , Kal/at Sakar (G lira.), at its junction with the Euphrates,
and SJtatra d-Muntafik (8 lira), to It is the seat of a kaimakam and has
Namrieh (7 hrs.), the chief town of a small trade. Below Kuraa, a point
the Muntaiik Baujak on the rt. bank to which sea-going steamers can ascend,
of tho Euphrates. Nasarieh owes its the united stream of the Euphrates
foundation to the policy of Midhat and Tigris is known as the Shatt d-
Paslia, who, when Vali of Baghdad, Arab. The banks are low and fringed
obtained for Sheikh Nasir of the Mun- with groves of date-palms, amidst
taflk Arabs the rank of Pasha, and which a few villages of mud huts are
an appointment as Mutessorif of Mun- scattered,
taflk. The town was founded as tho
permanent residence of the new pasha Basra, on the rt. bank of tho Shatt,
and the seat of his government From and about 2 m. from it, is the capital
Nasarieh it is 6 hrs. to Suk esh-Shiuhh, of a vihlyct, and a military station,
the residence of the spiritual head of It is tho port of transhipment from
the Sabaeans, who profess themselves river craft and caravans to ocean
to bo followers of S. John the Baptist steamers, and has a large trade, espe-
Continuing the descent of the river cially in dates. In 1890, 60,000 tons
we pass Imam Ati d-Oharbi (rt.), a of dates were exported. Steamers able
small village, and occasional stopping to cross the bar at the mouth of the
place. It has a moeque dedicated to Shatt ascend easily to Basra ; they
Ali, and is called el-Oharbi (west), to anchor in mid-btream, and all cargo
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route 110 .—Tabriz,
315
is discharged into lighters. There is
steam communication with India, and
willi England vid the Suez Oaual.
The town is surrounded by a wall
much out of repair, and is reached
from the river by a narrow winding
creek, at the mouth of which are the
Custom House and a small Turkish
dockyard and factory. Within tho
walls are two fine mosaues, and, round
the tomb of Zobeir , a suburb has grown
up. The British Consulate and the
merchants’ houses are on the river
hank, and form a settlement called
Margil. On the L hank is a hospital,
and near it is the village of Gardita.
The water supply of Basra is had;
there is much malarial fever, and the
climate Is trying and at times un-
healthy. The population of town and
suburbs is about 40,000, including
3000 Persian shop-keepers and porters,
1000 Jews* 400 Christians, ana a few
Europeans and Indians.
From Basra the traveller can pro-
ceed by land, or by boat down tho
Stiatt el- A mb, and np the Hafar
Canal, to
Kohammerah in Persia. See Rtc.
110 .
ROUTE no.
TABRIZ— KAZVIN-TEMRAN.
- naaf
Mia neb .
i ... as
Zenjan .
• . . M
Kurin ,
. n
Telirfin .
.... 24
This is a post-road on which tra-
vellers can journey by c7mpar(p. 285),
f The fartmkk may generally be aaanmed to
b« 3^ to 4m. Tbe distance* glveo are tboae for
which payment has to be made at tbe poet*
bootee.
or by caravan. The post-horses as a
rule are good and plentiful. The road
is fairly good to Kazvin, whence tliero
is a carHogo-road to Tohrftn ; and
along nearly the whole route aro
caravanserais, some in use, some in
ruins, that were built by Shah Abbas
the Great. The oountry is bare of
trees except near an oooasional stream
or in the immediate neighbourhood of
villages. When the road has been in a
bad state, travellers have taken 17 days
to perform the journey from Tabriz to
Tehran, although the usual time is 4
to 6 days, unless travelling by caravan,
when only one stage a day is made.
Strings of camels and droves of horses,
mules, and asses impede the traveller,
who still follows the ceaseless line of
tbe Indo-European telegraph, and the
eye finds little to rest on save a chance
village and a Chapar- Khdnek, or post-:
station, where he changes horses and
lodges. In winter, when the ground
is covered with snow, and the cold,
often aooompanied by biting Winds, is
intense, travellers should take proper
precautions against cold and snow-
blindness.
Tabriz. Tho capital of Aserbijon,
the most important and fertile pro-
vince of Persia. Pop. 165,000. ft is
the residence of a British Consul-
General
Tabriz was formerly supposed to
be identical with the ancient Gazaca,
the capital of Atropatenc, but tho
ruins of Gazaca have been discovered
more to the 8. It was the frequent
residence of Ifarftn cr- Rashid, having
been founded by his favourite wife,
Zobeide. After havinc been held by
Arabs, 8oRQks, and Mongols, it was
sacked by Tiraftr. A few years later
It was the capital of the K&r* Koyun-
1o. who were displaced (1468) by the
Ak Koyunlu. In 1514 it was captured
by Sultan Selim I. It continued to
flourish notwithstanding all its suffer-
ings from war and earthquakes ; but
it gradually sank until too European
trade through Erzerftra and Trebizond
caused it once more to become, next
to Tchrfin, the most populous and
flourishing city In Persia. It foil
Digitized by L^ooQle
310
Route llO. — Mtaneh — Kazvin.
into the hands of tho Russians in the
course of their last war with Persia,
but was given up under the treaty
of Turkman-chai. The Vali Aha,
or Heir Apparent, resides in the
city.
Like Tchritn, Isfah&n, and Shiraz,
Tabriz lies about 4000 ft above the
sea. It occupies an immense space on
a plain which is more or less covered
with snow during 4 months of tho
year, when the cold is intense. To
the S. rises the bold couical pile
of the Sahand Mountain*, at the
S. foot of which, at the ancient town
of Xaragha, are the remains of the
magnificent Observatory of Khoja
NasiruM-din, the friend of Hulagu
Kh&n, grandson of Jengbiz.
In tho centre of the city are the
domed roofs of the boz&rs, encircled
by dwelling-houses, while outsido
stretches a ring of walled gardens.
The only conspicuous building is tho
massive tower of on old castle, not un-
like an Egyptian propylon. Another
edifice of antiquity is tho ruin known
as tho 44 Blue Mosque ” ( Kabud Me»-
jul ), with walls coated iuside and out
with encaustic tiles of that colour.
It was built by Jehan Shah (1487-68),
and is called by Texier the 44 chef-
d'oeuvre ” of Persian, and perhaps of
all Oriental arohitocture. Tho Custom
Uouse f a large modem building, covers
a great extent of ground. The Gardens
in the buburbs are prettily planted.
The bazar t with their eastern goods
are very attractive, and so indeed are
the streets, full of busy Orientals.
The stages to Tehran are :-8aid-
abad (5 fare.) ; Hajji-agha (4 fare.) ;
Gtjin((i fare.); Turkman-chai (5 fare.),
a small village which gave its namo
to tho treaty of the 21st of Feb., 1823,
under which Persia gave up Erivan
and a largo slice of her territory to
Russia.
Xianth (6 fare.), situated in a fer-
tile valley, has a mosque and small
hazdr . It is the point to which the
Russian Army under Paskievich
penetrated in 1828. Mianoh is
noted for a iioisonous bug, of dark
grey colour with red spots on its back,
and travellers avoid sleeping there.'
Near the bridge is a small colony of
lepers. Beyond Mianeh we cross the
Kafian Kuh, 5000 ft., the only diffi-
cult part of the rood from Tabriz to
Tohr&n, Tho scenery on tho pass is
wild and striking. Jpnial-abad (4 far*,);
Serchem (4 fare.) ; Ak-mezar (4 fare.) ;
Nikbeh (4 fare.) ; thence the road is in
places billy to
Zen j an (6 fare.), the chief town of
the Khamseh distriot. Pop. 20,000.
Thore is a large bazdr. Zenjan was
the stronghold of the sect of tho Babis,
and here, in 1850, after the execution
of Bab at Tehr&n, there was a great
massacre of the Babis.
8oltanieh (G fare.), one of the capitals
of the past. Thero arc a large mosque
and the remains of the fine mausoleum
of Sultan Khodabundoh. The plain
beyond Sultanieh has the reputation
of being, in winter, the coldest district
in Persia. Khich (5 furs.); Kirrch
(5 fare.) ; Stall dehen (5 fare.).
Kazvin (5 fare.). Pop. 25,000. Like
many other cities in Persia, it has
Been better duys. It is said to have
been founded by Shapur II. (310-70).
Tho Emperor lie radius reached Kaz-
vin before be turned off towards
Isfah&n on his second expedition into
Persia. It was captured in 1078 by
Hassan Sabah 44 the Old Man of tho
Mountain.” Tahmasp I. (1524-76),
the second king of the Sefavi dynasty,
made it tho Beat of government, but
Shah Abbas moved the capital to
lsfah&n. In 1722 it was takon by
tho Afghans. When the capital
was transferred to Tclirftu, Kazvin
dwindled into its present insignificant
condition. The town stands in a
spacious plain, which, without being
artificially watered, is rich in fruit
gardens and cultivated laud. In tho
time of its greatness it contained a
population of more than 100,000 souls.
There aro the remains of the Palace of
Tahmasv ; of the Me*jid-i-Juma %
originally built by Harftn or-Rashld,
and the Mcsjid-t-Shah. Kazvin has
Digitized by L^ooQle
317
Route 110. — Karaj—Tehrdn.
the finest chruvansorai, McJtman-khd-
neh , in F6rsia.
[In tho mountains, about 30 m. from
Kozvin, arc the ruins of Alamut ,
44 coglo’s nest **— tho stronghold of tho
chief of tho Assassins, known Also by
the Appellation of “ the Old Man of
tho Mountain.** Thoeo miscreants,
Muhammadan sectaries, wore go-
verned for 160 yoats by a succession
of chiefs, to whom they paid a com-
plete and blind devotion. Marco
Polo relatos that youths of this sect
were introduced into a large garden
fitted up as far as possible with the
requirements of a Moslem Paradise.
When they awoko after a deep sleep
prolonged by drugs, their chief told
them they had already passed the
gates of (loath. Those sectaries hold
the doctrine of tho transmigration of
souls, and looked on their chief ns the
Vicar of God. His lieutenant go-
verned tho colony of Mount Lebanon,
so fainoun And formidable in the
history of tho Crusades. The Assas-
sins of Persia *cro exterminated by
tlulngu Khan, tho grandson of Jon-
ghiz, and thoeo of Syria by the Mem-
luks.]
At Kaxvin the rood from Resht is
joined, and the six stages, of 4 fare,
each — Kavarek, KisJUak, Yengi Imam,
Hessarek, Shahabad , Tehrdn — are
usually accomplished in 12-14 hrs.
by carriage or tarantas. (For charges
see Index.) Tho last two stages are
over a bleak district, with the here
Elburz mountains on one side and
a low range of hills far away on the
other. t >
At Xaraj, a village 24 ra. from the
capital, is a Palace belonging to tho
Shah. It is situated on a broad river
which is to a great extent utilisod in
irrigating the surrounding country,
after which it is lost in the great salt
desert ofKfim. The Karaj river oomes
out of a deep gorge in the mountains.
Its sources are to bo traced to tho
neighbourhood of a village in the
JSIburs called Shahristaneh , There is
good trout fishing in tho upper part of
the stream, tho fish being cxoellent
and plentiful.
Tshiin, the present capital of Persia,
was an unimportant place until it was
rebuilt by Agha Muhammad Khan,
about 100 years ago, and became the
capital of the existing Kajar dynasty.
The city lies at the foot of 1'ochal,
ono of the highest points (13,000 ft)
of tho Elburz mountains. About
40 m. distant is Mt Demavend
(19,400 ft). Tehran is rapidly be-
coming Europeanised, the latest im-
provement being tho introduction of
gas and eloctrio light At tho Royal
College are several European Pro-
fessors. Thero is a racecourse on
which races are held annually.
Tho Royal Police is well worth
seeing, but admittance with that
object is a matter of very special
favour. Within its precincts are tho
Talar or throne room, in which is tho
white marble throne, Takht-i-Marmar ,
of Kerim Khan Zend, brought from
Shiraz. Tho Museum , in which are
the Crown jewels, the globe of jewels
valued at 947,0001., the Daria-i-Nur
diamond brought from Delhi by Nadir
Shah, the sword of Timfir, the Abbas
coat of mail, royal crowns, Ac. Below
the Museum is the Porcelain room ,
and there is an Armoury , with curious
arms. In the Council Chamber is tho
Peacock throne, Takhl i-Taus , mado
for Fath Ali Shah. In the Garden
Court, Qulistan , the prettiest part of
the enclosure, is a beautiful Orangery.
In the Shems-d+maret, a “ triumph
of fanciful architecture,** are kopt
many of the presents from Euro-
pean sovereigns to tho reigning
Shall a
Other plaoes of interest nro the
Negaristan , or Picture Gallery, built
by Fath Ali Shah, in which are paint-
ings of that monarch, and of ambas-
sadors accredited to him by European
States. The Takieh, built for the
annual performance of the Passion
Play of Persia. The bazars, and ca-
ravanserais, especially the Amir cara-
vanserai, a large place in the form of
Digitized by LaOOQle
BotUe 110 . — Tehrdn .
918
a square, having gardens and a tank
of water in the centre, and warehouses
and shops round the sides. Tho
squares. Top Meidan, Mddan-i-Mashh ,
and Meidan-i-Shahy in whioh are a
largo tank, and the Drum Tower . Tho
streets are uu paved and narrow. In
summer they are covered with dust,
and in winter they are thickly covered
with snow or. mud. Being for the
most part similar in appearance, it is
extremely difficult to find one’s way
about without the assistance of a
Persian acquainted with their turn-
ings. It is only on entering the oourt-
yard that the extent or luxury of a
Persian house is at all discernible.
Most of the houses of the princes and
uoblcs aro built on an extensive scale,
and aro flttod up in what, according
to Persian ideas, is a luxurious
iiishioUi A Persian houso of this
class has an orangery and u bath
attached to it. . It possesses a small
piece of garden, and is divided botweon
the outer and the inner court — the
hiruni and the anderun .
There is a British Legation lodgod
in n flno spacious building. Tohr&n
is the terminal Stat. of tho Indo-
European Telegraph Go., aud the
initial Stat, of the British Govern-
ment line to India, via Isfahan,
Shiraz, Bushire, and the Persian
Gulf.
The climate is peculiar. The four
seasons are distinctly marked. The
spring, the most agreeable portion of
tne year, commences about the 21st of
March and lasts till the middle of
May. The weather then beoomes
warm, and the Shah quits the capital
for one of his chateaux in the neigh-
bourhood. His departure is the signal
for a general exodus from the city to
Shimran and other high-lying dis-
tricts. The hot weather continues
till tho end of August, and is suc-
ceeded by a lovely autumn whioh
lasts till Deoember. The winter is
Environs. — In the vicinity are the
Royal Chdteaux of Kasr-i-Kajar, Sul-
tanat-abad, Eshret-abad, Niaveran,
Agdasieh, Nojef-abad, Suleimanieh,
aud Doshan Tcpe. At Gulriheh, on
the slopes of Shimran, is tho summer
residence of the British Legation.
Sport of every kind in tho noignbour-
hood of Tohr&u is good.
About 6 m. S.S.E. of the city, aud
connected with it by a railway, is the
shrine of Shah Abdul Azim, a cele-
brated place of pilgrimage to which
Christians are not admitted. Here was
buried Imamzadeh Hamza, son of the
seventh Imam. Many wealthy Per-
sians are buried within the holy pre-
cincts, whilst the lower classes are
buried in an extensive oomotcry out-
side tho Shah Abdul Azim Gate of
tho oapital.
Near tho town aro tho ruins of
llhey , onct llhagae, one of tho places
to which the Jewish oxiles were sent
(Tobit i. 14). It was the birthplace
and a favourite residence of HarAn
er-Rashtd ; and bocutno ono of the
two groat citios of tho SeljAk sove-
reigns. In it Toghrul Bey was buried.
Rhey was stormed by Jenghiz (1221)
and by TimAr. After the death of
tho latter’s youngest son, Shah Rukh,
it deolined. There are the ruins of
two brick towers, on which were
Kuflo inscriptions, and of a citadel
built on the rook. There was onoe a
Sassanian sculpture on the rook, but
it was removed to make way for a bas-
relief of Path Ali Shah. I^wer dowu
at the Cheshme-i-Ali is another sculp-
ture of Path Ali Shah. Not far
off, in the mountains, is one of the
places in whioh the Guebres dispose
of their dead. Some distance rrora
Rhey are the ruins of Veramin , anct.
Europus.
Ascent of Demavend. — The most
S rominent object about Tehrdn, and
ie one the remembrance of which
tho traveller longest retains, is the
magnificent peak of Demavend. Jt
lies amongst a range of the Elburz
mountains to the N.E. of Tehrdn, and
is seen from a very great distancq
Digitized by L^ooQle
Bonle 111 . — Urmia .
310
from all directions. It rises to the
height of 19,400 ft above the level
of the sea, and of about 8000 ft
above the surrounding peaks of the
Elburz. It is an extinct, or rather a
slumbering volcano, and though its
peak is oovered with perpetual snow
over its greater portion, vet there aro
spots on its very summit where one
panhoi sit down for more than a few
Seconds at a time on aooount of the
heat of tho ground.
Demavend is, perhaps, of all moun-
tains which rise to the height of nearly
20,000 ft, the easiest to ascend. At
the spot where the real difficulty of
the ascent commences, Abigarm, there
aro two hot springs which arc strongly
impregnated with sulphur. Many
invalids frequent this plaoe during
summer. The only guides for tho
mountain aro to be found amongst
the villagers of Abigarm, who somo-
tihies, in the months of Jtilv or
Aiigust, undertake the ascent of De-
mavend in order to procure some of
the sulphur with which the edges of
its orator ard strewn. The Charge for
each, guide is About a toman ^10*.).
From Abigarm (d day'fc ndo from
Tehrftn) to the spot, hear the foot of
the cone, whoro the night is passed, is
a ride of 5 hrs. Tho ascent of tho
cone front this point, if made at tho
right season when there is a minimum
of snow, presents no difficulties. It
is a climb of about 2 hrs. Tho crater
occupies a large surface completely
covered with snow, and snow and ice
ipeot the eve in all directions on look-
ing around. A little below the edge
of the crater is tho mouth of a cave,
from which issuo the fumes of sulphur.
Here there is no snow, and the heat of
the ground is very great
ROUTE 111.
URMIA*— TABRIZ.
FA**.
JHlmsn 13
Tsbd* 31
Urmia, or Urania (vttlg. Urmi), a
town with 85-40,000 inhabitants, is
situated, at an alt of 4400 ft., in
a plain so renowned for its fertility
that it has been called the * Paradise
of Persia.*' E. of the plain are the
blue waters of tho lako, and to tho
W. aro low hills, beyond which rise
the lofty ranges of Kurdistan. The
town is enclosed by a wall of mud and
sun-dried brick, and has wide streets;
but except in the Christian quarter,
most of the houses are poor. Gardens
and orchards, amidst which are the
villas of the Persian officials, come up
to the city walls; each gate is ap-
proAchod by an avenue of fruit-trees,
and within tho walls are also gardens.
The population, of which a groat
majority is Shia, includes Persians,
Avshars, Turks, Nostorians, Arme-
nians, and Jews, lletwoen the 8nnni
Kurds in the neighbourhood and the
Shia townsmen there has always been
a bitted feud ; and in 1881 tho town
was besieged by the Kurds under the
famous 8neikh Obeid-ullah (p. 238).
The oUmate is pleasant in summer,
and severe in winter, when there is
sometimes 2 ft of snow on the plain.
Urmia, the reputed birthplace of
Zoroaster, was for many centuries tho
sacred city of the Fire Worshippers,
and the scene of the restoration of the
Mithraio rites. The onlv traces left
of the author of the Zend A vesta and
his followers are several mounds of
ashes, from 60 to 100 ft high, outside
tho walhL which mark tho sito of the
altars. The mounds are gradually
disappearing as the villagers are
allowed to carry away the soil for
manure, and to break up the walls for
building purposes. Interesting pot-
tery and sarcophagi containing ske-
Digitized by L^ooQle
320
Route 111 . — Lake Urmia.
lotons, with copper nails driven into At Gouk Tope, near tko town, is
their skulls, havo boon brought to Deacon Abraham’s Orphanage, largely
light. In tho town oro tho semi-sub- supported by English subscriptions,
torranean Ncstorian Church of Mart-
Mariam, said to havo boon built by Lake Urmia, Daria-i-Shalti, •* Royal
tho Magi on their return from Both- Sea, 91 the Capaula of Strabo, is about
lohem, and a Soljfik towor and mosque 12 ro. E. of Urmia. It is about 80 m.
of tho 12th century. long, and 24 m. wide, and its depth
Urmia is the headquarters of tho rarely exceeds 20-30 ft. The water
American, French, and Anglican is extremely salt ; it is stated to
Missions to the Nestorians. The contain a greater percentage of salt
American Presbyterian Mission com- and iodine than that of the Dead Sea,
inenoed work in 1835, and in 1868 the and the only living creature in it is a
Protestant Nestorions seceded and small jelly-nsh. The wator is said to
formed a church of their own. The bo receding, M leaving bare a soil of
Mission owns a large amount of pro- exceeding richness, and acres of
porty at Urmia, and has branches at dazzling salt*’ Near the S. end are
Tabriz, Tehran, and Ilamadan. In several islets, on ono of which Hnlagu
the town is tho Fisko Seminary — a established a treasure house. There
High School for girls ; and outside are three small deckod boats, the pro-
the walls are Urmia College, in which perty of tho Vali-Ahd, that ply on tho
a high-class education is given, a take. Near the E. shore are the pits
Dispensary, and Medical Mission or springs from which is extracted tho
Hospitals for both sexes. Thoro are fumouasemi-traneparent marble, called
also ordinary and technical schools, after the neighbouring town of Mu-
and a printing-press which has done raglia.
excellent work. During the last There uro two routes from Urmia to
50 years tho Mission has wrought a Tabriz. (1.) The easiest is to cross
remarkable change in tho social, in- bu boat to tho nearest point to Tabriz,
tellectual, and religious condition of With a fair wind the passage takes
the Christians in this corner of the 6-7 hrs., but the wind often drops and
East. leaves the boats becalmed for some
. days in tho oontre of tho lake.
The French Mission — L&zarists (2.) By the north shore of the lake . —
assisted by Sisters of S. Vincent de We travel along tho shore of tho lake
Paul — has been at work for 40 years over sandy plain to Oavalan (8 fare.,
in Urmia and on the plain of Salmas, Chaldaean), and then over low hills
where it has a station, at Khosrova. to Dilman (5 fare.). On the rock in
The R. Catholic Nestorians ore gene- tho vicinity of Dilman is a colossal
rully called Chaldaeans. Sassanian baa- re lief, supposed to
represent Ardoehir and Shapur I.
The Anglican Mission, under tho receiving the submission of tho Armo-
auspices of the Archbishop of Can- nians. The road now lies through
terbury, lias been at work ainco 1881. the plaiu of Salmas to Tasuj (7 furs.),
At Urmia it lias a College for Priests and thence by Alishah ) (8 furs ) to
und Deacons, a High School for boys,
a School for girls, a printing-press, Tabris (6 fare.). Seo p. 315.
and an establishment of the Sistere of
Bethany. It has also a High School
at Superghon, 18 m. N.E. of Urmia,
and many village schools in Persia
and Turkey. The object of the Mission
is to “ bring back an ancient church
into tho way of truth, and so prepare
it for its union with its mother church,
the Orthodox Church of the East."
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Route ll2.-^Dertt-^Kh$liti*tar.
321
ROUTE 112.
MO&UL— ROWANDUZ—URMIA.
mm.
KrIHl (Arbela) . . . .17*
Kowandux 19
Hayat 14*
Kbelislaaar .9
Uahnu II
Urmia 19*
Them is a bridle-path from Moaul
to Rowanduz which crosses the Zab
by a ferry at Girdomamik ; but the
usual route for caravans, and that,
apparently, by which Darius retired
after his defeat, passes through
Krbil.
Prom Mosul by Rte. 104, to Erbil
(17$ hrs.). Thence we travel for 4
lira, ovor uudulating ground past
Jiahirka to JMtmtxich, where wo enter
tiio hills and ascend a ridge, 1950 ft.;
beyond which the oountrv is a perfect
sea of rough, broken earth scarps with
numerous streams.
Bern (5$ hrs.), a small village with
ah old castle. The route now lies
through a wild stony district, With
some deep ravines, and there are per-
petual ascents and descents. We
cross the Babachichck D., 2000 ft, to
Heraeh , and 4 hrs. further reach the
small village of Kurruh (7$ hrs.), alt.
3200 ft. About 2 m. from Kurruk
we enter the narrow gorge of the
Ohalifan Su and, following the rt.
bank down stream for about 1$ hrs.
through fine scenery, reach the valley
of the Rowanduz Chai-^ the united
streams running off to the Zab through
a tremendous chasm. Here the track
ascends the broken cliffs on the L bank
of the Rowanduz by a solidly con-
structed but difficult and slippery
pathway known as the Serderria Pans.
The ascent is 1635 ft., and the path,
[Turkey.]
3-10 ft. wide, winds upwards for about
8$ m. in a series of zigzags. After
gaining the summit we have to cross
a decply-cut ravine before reaching
Rowanduz (6 hrs.), the seat of a
kaimakam and military post. Pop.
6250 (Kurds, Jews, and a few Chris-
tians). The town is situated at the
junction of two narrow gorges through
which run the Rowanduz and the
Nalkevan streams. Both gorges are
deep, and spanned by bridges. Tho
houses are built on the steep hillside,
and the streets are narrow. 2 m. 8.E.
of the town the Beni Hindawin ran go
rises to a height of about 8000 ft
_ [An alternative route (bridle-path)
from Erbil follows Rte. 113 to Keui
SanjaJ: (15} hrs.), and thence runs by
Baia**an (8 hrs.) to tho foot of the
Serderria Pom (7 hrs.) and Rowanduz
(4 hrs.).]
There are two routes on to Urmia.
(1.) The easier but longer traok by
the Kanithan Pam ascends tho 1. bank
of tlio Rowanduz Chni, and crosses a
ridgo4500 ft. with well-wooded slopes
to Dergala (6 hra.), alt. 3400 ft., a pic-
turesque village, with an old castle
and high peaks visible around.
Thence past several villages to Rayan
(2} hrs.), a small place just beyond
a fine gorge. On the steep mountain
sides are several villages and much
terrace-culture, vineyards, &o. Tho
Rowanduz Cbai, now a mere brook,
is forded 1 m. before reaching
Rayat (6 hrs.), alt. 4850 ft , the
Turkish frontier post— a few huts and
a quarantine station. 2 hrs. beyond
Rayat we reach the head of the
Kanishan Pass (6000 ft), in the open
undulating downs that separate tho
waters of the Rowanduz from those of
the Lesser Zab. A descent of about
1 hr; brings us to the Lahjan PIain f
4850 ft , which wo cross to
Khelisissar (9 hrs.), where the track
is joined by Rte. 114. [Hence it is
8 hrs. to Suj Bttlak, p. 324.] Beyond
Y
Digitized by ^.ooQle
822 liouie 113. — VshnU — Keiti Saitfak
Khelisissar we cross a range of low
rounded hills to Chiana (5 hre.), a
large village, at the edge of the Stdduz
plain , with mud walls for protection
against Kurdish raids. Hence wo
may proceed by an easy road to
Ushna (6 hrs.), and thence follow (2.)
to Urmia; or, keeping near the W,
shoro of Lake Urmia, travel by Na-
girde and Sheikh Ahmed to Diza
(11 hre.), and tkcncc past several
villages to Urmia (11 lire.).
(2.) Tho shorter but more difficult
route by the Kalishin Pass runs
through grand scenery. Tho track
crosses by tho bridge to the rt. bank
of tho ltowanduz Cliai and at onco
ascends a spur of the Sari Bttrd , which
tho shelving schist formation renders
very difficult for pack animals.
Though only 10 m. distant, it takes
5 lire, to reach Sidalea in the valley
of the Sidaka, up which the track
lies. Tho ascent from the valley is
increasingly difficult, and near tho
head of the Kalishin Pass the slopes
are very steep and covered witli deep
snow as lato as July. The summit,
8570 ft., is about 8 lire, from Sidaka,
and 8. of it the peak of Sheilth Iva
rises to a height of 10,570 ft. The
descent is eoually steep to Ohafar
Khan , and tlienco cosier to Ushnu.
It passes, on the slope of Shelkli Iva,
a Vannio cuneiform inscription attri-
buted to Monuas.
Ushnu (17 hrs.), a Persian town
situated in a belt of gardens and
orchards at the foot of the hills. The
inhabitants, 5000-6000, are Kurds;
and Turkish and Kormanji are chiefly
spoken. Beyond Ushnu the track
crosses a district that suffered severely
during the invasion of Sheikh Obeid-
ullah. There arc here many villages,
Kurd, Armenian, Nestorian, and
Turkish (Shia Karapapaks). Most of
them, especially in and near the
Baranduz plain, havo vineyards and
orchards, and nearly all have mud
walls or small mud forts as a protec-
tion against Kurdish raids. Persian
is little known, and a patois of Turkish
and Syriao is generally spoken. We
pass Sheikha (9} hrs., Kurd), Clntcha ,
Jundarli (2 hrs., Aram.), and other
villages before reaching
Urmia (8 hrs., p. 319).
ROUTE 113.
M08UL — 8ULEIMANIEH — 8AHNA —
TEHRAN.
Hits.
Krbil ( Arbcla ) . . . . . . IT*
Kent Sonjak . . .
Sulelmauieh . . . ' , 20
Sahna . . . ; 43
fa as,
H&madan 23
Tehran, by Rtc. 116 . . . 42*
There are three routes from Mosul
to Suleimanieh.
(1.) Vid Erbil (52| hre.). By Rto.
101 to Erbil (17* hrs.). Thence a
broad track runs over the plain past
llamam Klidn , and Kezntzan, anil,
after 3 hrs., enters a bolt of gravol
hills much cut up by watercourses.
AshJuifzalJca (7 lire.), a village of
Girdi Kurds in which Kermanji only
is spoken. About 2 hre. from this
placo we ford tho Zazir Su t a tributary
of the Lesser Zab, and, passing Begara
(Kurd) on its 1. bank, travel by a good
road to
Keui Banjak (8* hre.), the seat of a
kaimakam. The town, which has
narrow winding streets, is situated on
the rt. bank of tho Lesser Zab, in a
basin bordered N. and B. by low hills.
On a knoll to tho N. is on old castlo.
There are fine vineyards and gardens,
and a trade in corn and tobacco down
the Lesser Zab. The population,
7000-8000, is Kurd with a few Chris-
tian and Jewish families. About 4
ra. to the W. is Armota , a small village
fumed for its fertility and fruit ; near
Digitized by L^ooQle
ltouU 1 13 .— StdcimanuJi^Saktuit 823
it are the rains of several monasteries, pass, near Taduji Tepe , to the plain
Beyond Keoi 8anjak, we pass through in which lies
open conn try at the foot of the Hath
et-Sultan and at Khanabi (6} lira.) Sn lsi man ieh (8} lira.),
cross, by a raft ferry, to the L bank
of the Lesser Zab. From the ferry (3.) Suleimanieh, vid Kirkuk (58)
the track, runs over a low wooded hra.). By Bte. 104 to Kirkuk (36}
ridge to Khan-i-Miran (5{ hra.), and hra.), and thence (see p. 305) to Soldi-
thence across the plain to m a nieh (22 hra.).
Soleimanieh (8 hra.), alt. 2550 ft,
the chief town of a Sanjak, and a
military station. It oocupics a very
important position, commanding
several routes that cross the Persian
frontier, and it is sometimes called
the capital of Southern Kurdistan.
The town, a miserable place with
narrow dirty streets, stands in a bare
treeless plain, and is of comparatively
recent mite. The dimate is tempo-
rate, and there is a good water supply
from a karii. With the exception of
a few Jews and Christians th o popula-
tion, about 10,000, is Kurd, and Ker-
manji is chiefly spoken.
[There are several routes from
SuUimanich to Karman-thah. The
shortest and easiest runs by Oheradeh
(3} hra.) ; crosses a ridge, with a steop
ascent; passes Doladeizh (5} hra.);
crosses another ridge with very steep
ascent and descent ; and passes Ahmed
Ktdvoan (4 hra.). From this place the
track runs through a valley between
tho mountains to Saonla-ova (6 hra.),
and Palingan (5 hra.), whenoe the
ground is level to Karman~ehah( 10 bra.,
p. 326).
There is also a road (Rte. 114) from
Suleimanieh to Sty Bulak and Ta-
briz.]
(2.) Suleimanieh , via Altun-hevpri
(53} hra.). By Bte. 104 to ABun-
keupri (27} hra.). Thence we travel
E.S.& over the plain, and cross a low
ridge, the Shuan Z>., to Kafar (7 hra.).
Wo then enter a district much cut up
by deep, abrupt ravines, and, after
crossing the Oulen Ova, enter a broad
opening in the Kara D., known as the
Baxian Past. One hr. further is
Derguexin (10} hra., Kurd). 8 hra.
beyond this village we cross an easy
Leaving 8uleimanieh the track first
crosses the J&izhah hills to Harmala
(4} hrs.), and then the Tasidar range
to Panjwin (6} hra.), a village in the
Kizilji plain in whioh are several
Jewish families. Thence, travelling
over undulating ground, we cross the
frontier, and, after passing Lake Zir -
i-bar, reach Kaleh Marivan (6 hra.),
a village, with a fort, on the plain.
About 1 hr. from the fort weposs
Attarabad, and 4 hra. further oom-
menoe the asoent of the Kvh-i-Garan
by steep rocky zigzags. From the
crest, 6900 ft, thero is a grand view
of the mountain peaks in front stretch-
ing on either hand as far as the eye
can reach. The descent to Sheikh
Attar (7 hra.) is easier. The track
now cros se s a series of spurs, and
passing, about half-way, tho artificial
mound Kaleh Nadir Shah, enters Ba-
rodar (9 hra.). Thence tho road is
easy by Dawaiza (5 hra.) to
Bahna (5 hra.), the capital of Per-
sian Kurdistan, whioh lies in a deep
valley well stocked with orchards.
It is a flourishing little place with
well-built houses, and its aspect is
pleasing. Us population is 4000, and,
with the exception of a few Armenian,
Nestorian, and Jewish families, tho
people are Sunni Kurds. The Gover-
nor lives in a fine palace on a hill in
the centre of the town. From 8ahna
a good road is followed to Dih Ohulam
(6 fare.) : Burba (6 fare.) ; Hama
Kasar (6 fare.), and Hatnadan (5 for*,,
p. 328). Thence by Bte. 115 to
Tahrta (42} fan., p. 317).
t4
Digitized by
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324
Jtoute 114 .^-Derbend — Suj Buldk.
ROUTE 114.
Baghdad— rania-suj bulak—
TABRIZ.
HBS.
Altun-keupri, by Rte. J04 . . 70+
Kent San>k . . . 13*
Dtrbend . . ti
KbelUiasar . . . 18|
8uJ Bulak S
Tabrlt ..... 3S
There are two routes from Baghdad
to the Bania plain; one by Altun-
kenpri, the other by Suleimaniob.
(I.) Via AUun-Ixupri. By Rte. 104
to Altun-keupri (704 bra.), and thence
up the rt. bank of tho le aser Zab to
Tahtah (0 lira.), and over undulating
country to
Ktni Sanjak (4} hra., p. 822). From
Taktak the Lesser Zab is navigable
to its junction with the Tigris. The
route from Keui Sanjak, though little
used on account of the raids and
robberies of the Bilbas Kurds, is ono
of the easiest from the valley of tho
Tigris to tho Persian plateau. On
leaving tho town tho track ascends
the Haib es-Sultau D. by easy gra-
dients, and, in about 1J hra., readies
tho summit, 2940 ft., whonce there is
a fine view over the Rania and Pish-
der plains to the frontier range. After
an easy descent we cross a lower
ridge and, 3 hra. from Keui Sanjak,
enter the Bania plain, a remarkablo
depression in the hills about 25 m.
long and 12 m. wido. The Lesser
Zab enters it at Derbend and leaves
it by the Tang-i-Sheikh Ismail gorge.
The soil is extremely rich, but the
plain is only partially cultivated, and
is very feverish in autumn. At tho
N.E. end is Bania , the Beat of u
kaimakam. The track passes several
village*., and is joined Iby that from
Suleimaniob (see below), about 1} hra.
before reaching
Derfctnd (7} bra., Kurd) at tho
mouth of the defile from which the
Lesser Zab issues. We follow tho rt.
bank of the river through tho defile,
which is } m. long and about 300 yds.
wide, and has steep rocky sides. In
places tho road is rock-hewn, and on
tho cliff is a cuneiform inscription.
On emerging from the defile we enter
tho V iihder plain , and, reaching its
E. edge in about 3 hra., ascend the
Munghor Su to Quriihir (4f hra.).
Here wo turn N., and after a rough
ascent of about 1J hra. reach the sum-
mit, 4000 ft., of the frontier ridge,
whence a track runs E. to the Persian
frontier-post of Sardatht. The descent
to Ocrnmer (34 hra.), on the rt. bank
of the Lesser Zab, is easior. Follow-
ing a fairly easy track for 1] hra., wo
reach the Lahjan plain , about 30 in.
long and 15 m. wide, in which tho
Lesser Zab rises. The plain is fertile
and well-watered, and it is bordered
on tbo W. by tho Kandil l). t and the
lofty frontier range. Tho way lies
over tho plain to Sliinawa (71 lira.),
and
Khelisissar (2f hra., p. 321), whence
Urmia can be reached by Rte. 112.
The Tabriz road runs by Bagman,
and in 41 hra. crosses the Sagman
range by an easy para, 7200 ft., to
8dJ Bulak (8 lira.), alt. 4770 ft.,
rettily situated in a basin in tho
ills. 1 1 hra. from the town we pass
a rock-hewn tomb , and 3& hra. further
reach the marshes of Lako Urmia.
After crossing these and the rivor
Batao wo enter Miandab (9 lira.), alt.
4200 ft Beyond this placo we pass
through a rich hilly district, on tho
E. shore of the lake, in which are
numorous villages. Fine views of tbo
lake and of the Kurdistan mountains
are obtained from many points on the
road which runs by Binub (8 hra.),
Ajak-shehr (4j lira), and Togan (7£
hra.), to
Tabriz (9 lira., p. 315).
(2.) Fta Suleimanith. The most
direct road from Baghdad to Sulei-
manfeh is by Kifri (74 J lira.), seo
Digitized by
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Haute 116. — Sertaxh — Khanikiit, 326
lUo. 10-1, p. 804 ; but it is so infested .
by marauding bands of Hamavand .
Kurds that travellers usually follow
the longer route by Kirkuk (88} hrs.),
see Bte; 104, p. 805.
Leaving Suleimanieh the track
runs N.N.W. over the plain, passing,
in 1} hrs., the fine spring of 8irehinar t
which rises a full-grown river from
the gravel soil, and, } m. further,
fording the Khanjiru Su. As we
advance fine views are obtained of
tho Pir Omar Gndrun ( Pir-i-Mag -
durin) ])eak, 9700 ft, an important
landmark, onwhioh snow lies as late
as May. Several villages lie to the rt.
of tho road, and after passing Kara-
chatan (7} hrs.), and Khdn-i-Miran
(1., p. 828), we ford the Tobin Chai
and turn up the Sertash valley. The
main road keeps to the valley, whilst
a rougher track keeps to higher
ground through
Sertash (4 hrs.% alt. 8150 ft. It is
the seat of a kaimakaro, and situated
at the foot of a steep wall of rock
called Ashot D. Passing through
Qaichina (Kurd) wo rojoin the main
rood near Khanikhan, and in 3} hrs.
reach the 1. bank of the Lesser Zab,
which is followed as far as Dukhan
(4} lire.). Here there is a raft ferry
on a route to Keui 8anjak (p. 324).
We now cross two spurs of the KoUrut
]). y and in about 5 hrs. enter the
Rania plain, on which we pass Guru-
thina (74 hrs.V— a small village with
a tumulus — Baxmurian, and Guiek
before reaching
Derbend (3} hrs.). Thence (see
above) is followed to 8uj Bulak and
Tabriz.
ROUTE 116.
BAQHDAD'KARMAN-qHAH’-HAMA'
DAN— TEHRAN.
Kbuntkm
txub .
. as
JUrind
• m
Kanmn-tli «h
. IS
Beblatun
s
8ebna .
. 4 *
Hunidin
. 13*
Nnvanin
. is*
Tthrfin.
. as
This is an important trade and
post route, down which caravans bring
produce to Baghdad for shipment by
the river steamers to Basra.
On leaving Baghdad the road lies
over the rich, uncultivated plain, on
which the only features aro the old
canal mounds, and the lino of tele-
n h. Wo pass the wretched villages
dr and Orta KMn (mud hovels
and brackish water), cross tho remains
of the great Nahrvan canal, still
25-45 ft deep, and pass the Diala by
a bridge of boats to
Baknba. or Yakubabad (11 hrs.\
almost hidden in wallod gardens. It
is the seat of the kaimakam of Kho-
rasan— a kasa noted for its dates, its
grapes, and its pomegranates. There
are a bazar and three khdns. The
road continues over tho plain to
ghahraban (8 hr#.), now a small
village; and thence over plain and
two hills, much cut up by water-
courses, to Xisil Bobat (6} hrs.), a
small town with two Xcfcfas, and an
imam-zadeh of some repute. Crossing
/. Hamrin , a low range of gravel
hills, we reach
ThinlHn (7 hrs), tho seat of a
kaimakam, situated on both banln of
the Hutvan, a tributary of the Diala.
It is surrounded by palms, Ac^ and is
noted for its gardens and fruit. The
plaoe is of importance from its position
on the pilgrim route to Kerbela, end
Digitized by L^ooQle
826
Route 115 . — Kasr-i-Shirin — Karman-shah.
from its proximity to the Persian
frontier. There are barracks, a
quarantine station, and several largo
khdns. A bridge over the Hulvan
is due to Persian enterprise. For the
next stage it is advisablo to take an
escort. Wo ascend gradually, crossing
low gravelly hills, and, alter passing
the frontier and the Persian town of
Sirbas , reach
Xasr-i-Shirin (6 hrs., 5 fars.), alt.
1700 ft., a miserable village with poor
khan on the rt bank of the Hulvan.
Near it is a large pile of buildings,
onoo the homo of a robber chief. K.
of tho village stretch the extensive
ruins of the old town, so closely con-
nected with the romantic legend of
Ferhad and Shirin. There are remains
of tho walls, of the palace of Rhusru,
and of tho rnck-hown aqueduct, bring-
ing water from u distance of 15 m.,
which, so tho legend runs, Ferhad
made for love of Shirin. The road
lies over low hills to
Bar- i -Pul-i-Zohab (5 furs.), alt.,
2800 ft., a few lliyftt huts, and a
wretched khdn. After crossing the
Hulvan by a bridge we reach an
abrupt range of limestone hills with a
natural rift, across which the founda-
tions of a wall remain. Here are a
sculptured tablet , with the figure of a
priest, and, above it, a rock-hewn tomb ,
called Dukh&n - i - Daud, “ David’s
smithy." Here the Ali Ilahis (p. 285)
believe David lived, and they make
pilgrimages to it from all parts of
Kurdistan. Near the tomb is a mound
called “ David’s Fort” Passing
through the rift we asoend a valley
to Pat-i-Tak ( khan ), and shortly
afterwards reach the foot of the
remarkable pass known as the " Gates
of Zagros," on the old highway,
through the Zagros mountains, from
Media to Babylonia. It is a steep
climb of 1000 ft., by a puvod zigzag
road, to the head of the pass, 4100 ft.,
beyond which lies Mian Lelt. About
half-way up the ascent is a fine arch
of white marble called Tak-i-Shirin t
through a valley with rooky clifls on ’
either side to
Karind, or Kirrind (7| fare.), alt*
5350 ft., the capital of the Karind
Kurds, who arc shias. It is situated
at tho mouth of a gorge, in a bold
picturesque rock-scarp, through wkioh
the Ab-i- Karind runs down to the
broad valley. The road runs over
rolling ground to
Harflnabad (6 fare.), alt. 4800 ft, a
village with large khan on tho site of
a town founded by Har&n er-Rashtd,
on the head waters of the Kerkhah.
The cold in winter is so great that the
lliydt inhabitants desert the village.
The road onward is easy and runf
over two ridges, from the last of which
we look down on the large fertile
plain of Mahi-dasht, with its nume-
rous mud villages.
Mahi-dasht (6 fare.), alt. 5050 ft,
a few mud houses gathered round a
largo kJtdn. At Oort, on tho plaiu, is
a mound marking tho site of on
ancient fire altar. Tho way now lios
over the plain, and uoross some low
hills to
Karman-shah (4 fare.), the capital
of a district of the same name. It
was founded by Varahran IV., who,
having been Governor of Karman, was
known as Karman Shah. In the last
century it was fortified by Nadir
Shah. The town stands on rising
ground, and is almost surrounded by
gardens. The walls are in ruins, ana
there is little of interest inside them.
Karman-shah, which is almost equi-
distant from Tabriz, Tehr&n, Isfahan,
and Baghdad, occupies a position of
considerable strategical importance.
Its Governor is always a near relative
of the Shall, and it hus an arsenal
and garrison of regular troops. The
ponululion , once about 80,000, is now
only 25,000, most of the people having
emigrated to Azerbijan and Turkey.
Thero are a good many Jews and
Babis, but most of the inhabitants
or Tak-i-Qirra. From Mian Lek the are Shias. The batdrt are large and
road lies past Iskander's fort, and well stocked with European goods.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
327
Route 1 1 5.— 1 Tak-i-Bostan — Kaiujawar ♦
Karman-shah is noted for its hones
and for its carpets. In selecting the
latter great care is neoeesary as fugi-
tive aniline dyes are sometimes used.
A native British Agent, known os
the Vekit ed-Devleh , wbo is ono of the
wealthiest men in Persia, resides in
the town.
At Tak-i-Bostan, “ Arch of the
Garden,” 4 m. from Karman-shnh, are
Bomo of tho finest rock-soulpturcs in
Persia. The road to them passes the
decaying palace of Imaaieh, and
crosses the Kara Su by a ford. The
monuments consist of two deep and
lofty-arched recesses, within which
are several reliefs executed with great
spirit and excellence. Above tho
keystone of the larger arch is a
crescent, and in the spandrels on
either side are winged female figures.
The end wall of tho recess is divided
into two compartments: the upper
containing Khusru II., in robes of
stato, with two supporters ; tho lower
occupied by a colossal flguro of the
king on horseback. Tho sides re-
present stag and boar hunts. Tho
smaller arch contains rudoly-soulp-
tured figures, which are shown by
inscriptions to be Sliapur II. and his
son Sliapur HI. A little to the rt. t
on the faoe of tho cliff, is another
Sassanian panel, which is supposed to
represent the investiture of Shapur I.
with part of the kingdom, by his
father Ardeshir. The Tak-i-Bostan
and the pleasure grounds near it are
now the property of the British
Vekil.
Leaving Konnan-shah, the road
lies over the plain with the lofty
Behistun range about 2 m. distant
(L), and the great rook-mass of Piru
in front. Some remains of marble
walls and columns, perhaps marking
tho site of a temple, aro passed about
8 m. boforo reaching
from the ground, are the sculpture and
inscriptions of Darius Hystaspes, with
whioli the name of Sir Henry Raw-
linson, who first copied and deci-
phered them, will ever be associated ;
and at its foot bursts forth a fine
spring. The bas-reliefs are those of
Darius and the rebels whom he over-
came. Tablets, with the names of
those referred to, are placed above tho
monarch and the prisoners. Ono is
the Pseudo Bardos, tho Magian whom
Darius dispossessed and slow; tho
5th figure if the King of Sagartia;
and the 9th Sakuka, the Scythian.
The inscriptions below the sculptures
oocupy a surface about 150 ft long
and 100 ft high, and amount to nearly
1000 lines, beautifully engraved in
three languages — Persian, Susisn, and
Assyrian. A translation of them was
published by Sir H. Kawlinson in
1847. A second tablet, which contains
somo mutilated equestrian figures, is
the work of Gotarzes, the Parthian
king (efre. a.d. 46-51). Behistun is
apparently tho plaoo at which, accord-
ing to Diodorus, Semiratnis oncamped
and prepared a Paradise. It was
visited by Aloxandor on his march
from Susa to Ecbatana.
About 1} m. from Behistun we
reach the bridge over the Dinavar, a
tributary of the Oarmasiab; and,
after passing a small village on some
artificial mounds, cross the Kajawah
Shikkan pass to
flehna (4| fare.), a small flourishing
town, with a largo khan, among beau-
tiful gardens and plantations. It
stands at the foot of a range of preci-
pitous rooky hills, in which are some
ancient caves and sculptures. The
road soon enters a defile in the low
hills, and after passing Bisurkh , and a
high, artificial, conical mound, ascends
sharply and crosses a high pass to
Behistun, or Besitun (6 fare.), a Kangs war (44 fare.), a small town,
miserable group of mud hovels. Hero built below a high hill on some
the precipitous rock of Piru, anot natural and artificial mounds. There
Mans Bagistanus, rises abruptly from are many remains of ancient build-
the plain to a height of 1700 ft On inn. including those of a citadel of
the race of the precipice, about-300 ft. bnolc, and of a large edifice, appa-
Digitized by L^ooQle
328
Boule 1 1 6 . — Uamadan — Mohammerah.
rently a temple or palace, “ con-
structed of enormous blocks of dressed,
stone.” The road onward is good,
except iu a few places where it is
stony. We pass lradtir-u6<id, a large
village, with au artificial mound, about
half-way to
Said-abad (4 J fare.), a small walled
village. Thence we cross the moun-
tains by a steep and, in plooes, rugged
]*iss, impassable in winter, to
Hamadan, Ecbatana (4$ furs.), alt.
0000 ft., situated in a rich well -culti-
vated plain at the foot of Mt. Elvend ,
anct. Oroides. It is surrounded by vine-
ards, orchards, and gardens watered
y cool streams from El vend, and
occupies one of the finest sites in
Persia. The streets are narrow and
filthy, but the bazar * are fine and
8|>ncious, and there are many mosques,
khan*. aud baths. The town is noted
for its copper ware, its leather trunks
and saddlery, its felt carpets, its silver
and gold work, and its grapes. The
population of about 25,000 includes
1500-2000 Jews, and a number of
Armenians and Babis. In a shrine
adjoining the Mesjid-i-Juma are
shown the tombs of Either and Mor-
decaij which are annually visited by
many Jewish pilgrims. Hamadan ,
the Hagmatana of the inscriptions, is
the Ecbatana where the Achaemenian
kings stored their treasure, where
Alexander sacrificed on his return
from the East, and whoro Hephaestion
died. There are, however, no remains
except a rudely carved stone lion. In
a gorge of Mt. El vend, near the town,
are two tablets with trilingual inscrip-
tion*, known ns Oanjnameh , with tho
nainos and titles of Darius and Xerxes.
There is a brunch of the American
Mission, with a good school, in tho
town.
Beyond Hamadan the road is good,
and for the most part level to Milagerd
(4$ fare.) and Zarah (3 fare.). Tlienco
it crosses some rough ground with
steep ascents and descents to Narik
and
Jfuvaran (9 furs.), a flourishing
little town with fine gardens. Beyond
Nu varan the road crosses a district
cut up by a succession of deep rocky
ravines, in which are several villages.
It afterwards runs over part of the
desert plain of Persia, and finally
enters the oxtensivo gardens that sur-
round the capital. Tho stations are
KhusldMk (7 fan.); Khdn-i-abad (6
furs.), water brackish and unwhole-
some ; Jtubat-karim (7 furs.), and
Tehr&n (0 fare., p. 817). 1
ROUTE 116.
MOHAMMERAH — DIZFUL — KH£~
RAM'ABAD — BURUJIRD — TEHRAN.
FAM.
Aliw« .
. 20
SliunUr
. 14
Ditful
•
Khoram-abad
. 40
Burujlrd .
. 17
Sultan-abad
. 10
Kum
. 18*
Tehran
. 23
This route is one of the easiest from
the valley of the Tigris to tho Persian
plateau, and is the natural commercial
route from N.W. and S.W. Persia to
tho sea. It is, howover, practically
closed by the Feili tribes of Lurs,and
should not be attempted by travellers
without taking proper precaution.
The state of the dial riot is generally
known at Basra. Diaful, and the
ruins of Susa, can always l>e visited.
Mohammerah is situated on the rt.
bank of tho Hafar canal, through
which most of the waters of the Karun
river find their way to the Shatt el-
Arab (p. 814), and about } m. from
Digitized by L^ooQle
Route liG.—^Ahtbaz — Shustar.
329
ils mouth. The canal is 3 m. long,
und from 300 to 400 yds. wide, and
both banks are lined with date-palms.
The town occupies part of a walled
enclosure ; the houses are of sun-dried
brick, and the streets are narrow and
filthy. Its importance ceased with
the decadence of Shustar and Dizful.
Mohammerah is easily reached from
Basra, a few miles up the 8hatt el-
Arab. where arrangements should be
made for the journey.
From Mohammerah the rt. or the L
l*mk of the Karun can be followed to
Ahwaz. In ;he first case the way lies
over a treolcsj mud-fiat, where the
nights have to be passed in mud
liovels or Arab camps, and the river
is crossed at Amira. In the second
the L bank is gained by a ferry at
Sabla , and the road runs through Ali
Abu Hwsetn (a celebrated shrine),
SamainiOy and Amira. In either case
a safe-conduct from the Sheikh of the
Mohammerah Arabs is necessary. The
traveller will find it more convenient
to ascend the river by steamer and
start from Ahwar or Shuster.
Ah was, Aginis (20 fare.), alt. 220 ft,
a small village on the 1. bank of the
Karun, was the chief town of Khuzis-
tan until it was destroyed by Timur
towards the close of the 14th century.
It stands on ground 10 to 15 ft. above
the level of the country, mid imme-
diately below it the navigation of the
river is obstructed by sandstone ridges
that form five natural weirs across
the stream within a distance of about
1J m. There are mauy remains of
irrigation canals, and the plain was
once well cultivated. The road runs
over the fertilo plain through Wait
(imam-zadeh and ferry), where a safe-
oonduct from the Governor of Arabistan
becomes necessary, and past mounds
marking the site of an nuciont city to
the ferry at
Band-i-Kir (6 fare.), a small Arab
village on the rt. bank of the Ab-i-
Oargar — one of the three streams that
here unite to form the Karun, the
other* being the Ab*i‘Buzurg-i-Shut-
tar and the Ab i-Duful. Thence wo
travel over the plain near the rt. bank
of the Ab-i-Gargar to
Shustar (8 fare.), alt. 400 ft, near
the foot of tho Kuh-i-Fedelak , a low
range of sandstone hills. Immediately
above the town the Karun is divided
into two branches : the original chan-
nel, called Ab-i-Skateit , and an artifi-
cial canal, the Ab-i-Gargar, formerly
known as the Nahr Masrukan. Tho
town is surrounded and protected by
these two streams, and by the Ab-i-
Klinrd, a smaller canal which conneots
them. The walls are in ruins, but
there arc a few Sassaniun remains.
The houses are of stone and mud, and
have terdabi ; the streets are narrow',
worn into deep ruts, and practically
opeu drains and cess-pits. On a sand-
stone bluff, rising abruptly from tho
river, is the fort with its citadel, which
is supplied with water by a canal from
the Ab-i-Shateit that flows through a
tunnel beneath it, and is reached by
wells. About 200 yds. below the fort
is a bridge, 600 yds. long, whioh holds
up tho water of tho Al>-i-Shntfit, and
forces part of it into the Ab-i- Khurd.
The bridge is built on the Buud-i-
Mizan, and is attributed to Valerian.
There are several bandt on the Ab-i-
Gargar.
Shustar was once the capital of
Khuzistan ; but since the plague and
cholera opidemics of 1831-2 it has
beon second in importance to Dizful.
Tho population of 45,000 has dwindled
to 6000; its trade ha a practically dis-
appeared ; and its bazars are almost
untenanted. The people are a mixed
race, Pers-Arabion. The position of
tho town, — situated on the bordor
line between the Arabs of the coast
plaiu to tho S., and the Lur tribes of
the mountain districts, commanding
several roads to the Persian plateau,
and at flic head of water communica-
tion on the Karun, — is one of very
great political, military, and commer-
cial importance. The soil in tho
vicinity is very fertile, and produces
sugar-cane, opium, indigo, cereals, and
cotton. North of the Kuh-i-Fedelak
is the Akili plain ,— one vast cornfield
Digitized by L^ooQle
330
Route 116 . — MalrAmir — Aided,
studded with villages and date and
orange gardens.
With proper encouragement Shustar
should become one of the first com-
mercial towns in Persia, and a com-
mencement has been made by opening
the Karun to navigation. Since 1892
Messrs. Lynch (E. and T. Steam Na-
vigation Go.) have had a small paddle
steamer, drawing 2 ft. to 2 ft. 6 in., on
the river, with two lighters for towing
up cargo. The steamer can reach
Ahwaz at all times, and the vicinity
of Shustar when the water is high.
The improvement of the navigation
by the construction of a canal to avoid
the obstacles at Ahwaz will probably
follow if the trade routes through
Luristan are re-opened.
[(i.) Shustar to Isfahan via Mal-
Amir, A safe-conduct from the ll-kh&n
of the Bakhtiaris is necessary. This
is ail important but difficult route
through tho Bakhtiari mountains ; it
is generally closed by snow till early
in April. It is on tho line of an ancient
road, which passed through several im-
portant cities, and which was apparently
re-opened and supplied with khans by
the Atabegs of Luristan in the 18th
century. Traces of the old road and its
bridges, and remains of ancient towns
are numerous. The scenery is in places
magnificent. In summer the Bakhtiaris
leave their villages in the valleys, and
go to their mountain pastures.
After leaving Shustar we pass remains
of masonry retaining wulls on the hills,
and halt at Shakar-<ib (8 fare.) ; water
here tastes of naphtha. Cross some
gypsum hills and ford a sulphurous
stream twice. Gargar (4 fare.}, a village
of inhospitable Say ids. Bud Zard , or
Sar Asia (6 fare.), on Iliyat village.
Lor 8 fars. over a bad road up the valioy
of tho Zurd Ab. Kalth-i-Tul (4 fore.),
alt. 8540 ft., a village and strong fort,
the residence of the Khan of the Cnahar-
lang Bakhtiaris.
Ksl-Amir (4 fare.), alt. 2980 ft., a
group of reed huts on a tepe in the centre
of the Mai -Amir plain. The mound is
an accumulation of the ruins of the old
city of llej. On the N. side of the plain
are sculptures and cuneiform inscriptions
(Susian) ; and on the S, side is a cavern,
above which are bas-reliefs and cunei-
form inscriptions. Near the latter, at
the entrance to a cave, are more bas-
reliefs and inscriptions. There are many
Sassanian and other ruins in the plain
and its vicinity, and the district most
have been of great importance when
noble bridges spanned the rivers, and
the road to Shustar was in good order.
From 4 to 0 fare, to the N.W. are the
ruins of Susan , on the rt. bank of the
Karon, and below them, on the same
bank, is a tomb of Daniel, much vene-
rated by the Lure. A paved road once
led down the river and crossed it several
times by fine bridges, of which there are
remains.
From Mal-Amir over a difficult road,
partly along an old paved way (the ZfrtA-
i -Sulluni). to Goil-i-BuLatak (7 fare.), alt.
2860 ft. Tho old road ran by Kaleh-i-
Madrasa (ruined khan of the Atabegs},
to a bridge over the Karun. At God-i-
Bulatak, the Koran is ferried, and then
thero is a steady ascent to Ikh-i-Diz
(8 fare.), alt. 5780 ft., a walled village
with an old fort and a mosque. Over
tho Kuh-i-Sqfd, 6970 ft., and lower
ridges, to tho Bazuft , or Dudbar , pass-
ing remains of the Rah-i-Sultani :
then across the river by a bridge, and
ascend to Shalil (5 fare.), alt. 6058 ft.
A difficult road over a succession of
ridges, of which the Gtrrah Kuh.
7380 ft., is the highest, to Gandum Kal
(4 fare.), alt. 6740 ft., in a valley where
the snow lies deep in winter. A difficult
road over a pass. 7940 ft., to Dupulan ,
“Two bridge place ” (8^ fare.), alt.
4950 ft., a small village picturesquely
situated on tho 1. bank of the Karun,
where it cinorgcs from a gorge by q
narrow passage between two lofty walls
of rock, and is joined by the A5-i-
Sabz, Jloth streams are bridged, and
there are remains of the bridges by
which the old road crossed. Ascend
about 1000 ft. by a very bod narrow
path from the valley of the Ab-i-Sabz
to the plain in which lies
Ardal (2 fare.), alt. 5970 ft., a Bakh-
tiari village in which the fl-kh&n resides
in early summer. Cross the A'tiA-i-
Seligun by the GanUtn-i-Zcrra , 8900 ft.,
to Shulamzur (6 fare.). Easy road to
Kahu-i-tiukh (7 fore.), alt. 6850 ft.. tho
lost village under tho jurisdiction of the
il-khan of tho Bakhtiaris. A rough
road over the Gardan-i-Itukh to Chtr-
mini (4} fare.), alt. 5900 ft, Thence an
Digitized by L^ooQle
331
Route 110 . — Ditful — Susa.
easy road to Tul-i-Wargun (fy fan.),
Isfahia (8 fan., p. 838).
(ii.) Skustar to Shiraz. A road rnns
to Ahwaz (p. 829) and Behbahan , about
172 m. or 8 days’ march. From Beh-
bahan there is an easy route through
the mountains to Shiraz, about 171 m.
or 8 days' march. Total 16 days’
march.]
On leaving Shustar the track runs
through a break in the Kuh-i-Fedelak,
and oroaaea the rich plain of Akili,
where the Bakhtiari country is en-
tered, to Ab-i-Bid (4) fan.), a small
village in whioh the tl-klifcn of the
Bakhtiaris (p. 284) has his winter
residence. Thence Over gentle undu-
lations to
Disful (4| fan.), alt* 080 it, the
residenoe of the governor of the dis-
trict It stands on the 1. bank of the
Ab-i-Disful, in a cultivated plain.
The streets are narrow and filthy, and
ophthalmia is common. There are a
few 8assanian remains. The popula-
tion of about 10,000 is chiefly Persian.
The soil is very fertilo and much
imligo is grown.
Ezoursion to Susa. Escort neces-
sary. — Looking 8.W. from Disful one
sees a mountain terminated by a
horizontal plateau. It is the Kaleh-i-
Shusj 14 Fortress of Susa.” Tho tra-
veller crosses a cultivated plain inter-
sected by numerous watercourses,
fords the Ab-i-Diz/uly anct. Ooprates,
passes through ground covered with
shrubs, and abounding with game,
and, alter a ride of 15 m., reaches the
Shaflr, on the rt. bank of whioh are
the Tomb of Daniel and the ruins of
the Acropolis.
Susa, the Shushan of the Bible,
was the chiof town of 8usiana, and
the capital in which the Persian
monarch* resided during the spring of
the year. Here the prophet Daniel
livea an exile; and tho palaoe was
the scene of Esther’s romantic story.
It was remarkable for the strength
and splendour of its citadel, and it
was apparently the chief treasury of
the Persian Empire. When taken by
Alexander it contained vast treasures.
Excavations were made before the
Crimean War by Sir F. Williams and
Mr. Loflus ; ana during the last few
years the site has been thoroughly
examined by M. Dieulafoy, who has
published the results of his discoveries
in a magnifloent work, L'Aeropdle de
Suse.
Susa lay between the Ab-i-KerkhaK,
anct. Chaasves , and the Sha&r, and
Bulaeus , — the Ulai of Daniel, — an ar-
tificial canal connecting the Ohoaspes
and the Ooprates. Its oiroumferenoe
appears to have been from 6 to 7 m.
On the rt. bank of the Ulai were
temples, an observatory or temple
tower (Tell Suleiman ), and the Mem-
nonium, a mass that rises above the
royal tumuli. The Acropolis is im-
mense, its area being about 800 acres.
The palaoe and the fortifleatjons
occupied three distinct platforms. To
the SW. was the citadel, of semi-
circular form. N. of the citadel, and
separated from it by a deep ravine,
was a platform, upon which stood tho
41 Hail of Audience,” or 44 Throne
Room.” To the E., on a long terrace,
were the King^s palace ana harem,
so often raentionocl in the books of
Esther and Daniel. The trilingual
inscriptions uncovered here by Wil-
liams and Loftus showed that Arta-
xerxes Mnemon, the conqueror of the
G rocks at Cunaxo, had uuilt a new
ps lace on the site of tho original
palaoe of Darius, whioh .was appa-
rently destroyed by fire. Tho palaoe
of Artaxerxes was a magnificent build-
ing, decorated with faience and
glazed bricks ; and from it M. Dieu-
lafoy obtained the beautiful coloured
friezes of lions, and archers of the
royal guard, now in the Louvre at
Paris. Glased bricks and vitrified
plaster were largely used in the build-
ings as much to protect the walls
from the weather as for ornament.
The citadel wall, with its sauare
flanking towers, was protected oy a
wide ditch.
At the foot of the citadel is the
Tomb of Daniel , a structure of Moslem
Digitized by L^ooQle
332
Route 110.- Khoram-abad — Rurujtrd .
times, it is shaded by palms, and is the summit of the rook is the citadel
one of the most noted places of pil- ( BaJa-hitsar ), now in ruins, which
grimage in the country. encloses within its double walls the
governor's palace, and a large reser-
. About 18 m. from Dizful is the voir fed by a vigorous spring. The
Kalch-i-Diz , a natural stronghold of modem town, chiefly of mud houses,
the fiakhtiaris, and said to bo the is below the fort. It is entered by a
strongest hill fort in Persia. It is an fine bridge, at the end of which there
isolated hill with perpendicular sides is a large khan. The river, a broad
about 150 ft. high. The top is shallow stream, is bordered by gardens,
reached by a path, partly dug into amidst which are remains of the old
the face of the cliff, and partly con- town. Tho most interesting relic is
sisting of brushwood supported ou a round brick minaret, about 60 ft.
trunks of trees which can be easily high, of the Seljflk period, which has
thrown down. On the summit are a a Kufic inscription round the top. ’
few huts, caves, several springs, and From Khoram-abad a good track,
a few square miles of cultivated land, through a treeless district, leads over
It lias often been invested by Persiau the hill of Uulvhan to Zaghe (6 fare.),
troops but never tuken. This peculiar alt. 5910 ft., a village at which the
hill formation, called 2>iz, is very chief of the Talwant Lurs resides,
common in the Bakhtiari hills. We now pass several villages and
Between Dizful and Khoram-abad cross tho Qardan-i-Razan 9 6930 ft., to
thoro are no villages and no pro- Chulanchulan (6$ fare.), alt. 4920 ft.,
visions. The traveller must carry a largo village of the Yar A limed i
tents or bivouac. The road is very Lurs, in the fertile valley of tho Ab-
insecure, owing to the lawless and iu- i-Diz. Thence over level cultivated
tractablo nature of the Feili tribes of ground to
Lurs who occupy the hills through
which it runs. It can only bo tra- Burujird (4} fare.), ult. 5375 ft., tho
versed by a very strong party or by seat of the governor of the district,
making arrangements to accompany It is a town of about 18,000 inhabi-
the Sag wand Lurs during their annual tents, and is situated in a fertilo
migrations. The road presents no valley on the banks of a tributary of
difficulties that could not easily be the Ab- i-Diz. There are several
removed, and water and pasture are khan s, and a large and busy bazar ,
plentiful and good. It is never well stocked with Europeau goods,
blocked by snow, and the highest The town is noted for its printed
point crossed is 6020 ft. The distance chintzes, its carpets, and its arak. It
in estimated at 156 in. (46 fur*.), or has u bad reputation for robberies,
about eight days’ march. and travellers are advised not to
camp in the gardens. The position
Khoram-abad (40 fare.), alt. 4050 ft., of tho towu is one of much importance,
the capital of the Feili Lurs and for roads lead to Haraadan (4 stages) ;
residence of the Governor of Luristan. Kannan-shah (6 stages); and Isfah&n
Before tho 14th oenty. it was called (10 stages).
DU’iiahy the “ black Diz,” and it was From Burujird the track runs over
the capital of the Atabegs who reigned a succession of huge rounded undula-
in Lur-i-Kuchak from 1155 to about tions to Zdteon (6 fare.), alt. 7640 ft.;
1600. The situation of the town is and thence through the Tang i-Tura
remarkably picturesque. The rocky defile, where it is joined by a road
range of hills that stretches across tho from Hamodan, to Tura (4 fare.), alt.
plain is broken by a pass about } m. 6490 ft.
wide, through which the river Kasii-
gan flows, and in tho centre of this a 8nltan-abad (6 fare.), alt. 6110 ft., a
steep isolated rock rises out of a mass small town, the oentre of a carpet
of green cypresses ami poplars. On manufacturing district, with cleaner
Digitized by L^ooQle
Houle 117 . — Bmhir e — Daliki .
33:1
and wider streets than nsaal. There
are two roads henoe to Tehr&n.
(1.) Through Megan (8 fars.) ; Saveh
(8 fars.); Zarand (5 fart.) where
Hte. 115 is joined; and llubat Karim
(9 fars.); to Tshrkn (6 fars.). (2.)
Through Ibrahim-abad (6 fars.) ; and
Anetbeg (8 fars.) ; to Kum (4$ fars.,
p. 341), whence fete. 117 is followed to
Tehrta (23 fars.). 8ee p. 317.
WHITE 117.
BU8HIRE— SHIRAJf-ISrAHAN—
TEHRAN.
•DorazJun ,
•Kooartakbteb .
FAR*.
16
S
•Kaxrtin .
IS
•Shim*
20
l»u*eh (for Pemepolla)
•4
Mnrgbab .
•4
•Deb-bid .
7
•Alwdrh .
16
Yesdikhsst
11
•Kumisheh
IS
•Istkhin .
14
•Soh.
16
Knbnjd
6
•Kuban .
7
•Korn
17
Jlatu-USnltAn .
10
• Tehran .
IS
• Are telegraph stations.
N.B. From Bush ire to Shinu there is
no chapar service. The traveller must
hire mules for himself and baggage,
sleeping, if invited, at Telegraph Sta-
tions and rest-houses, or in caravan te raft.
The journey takes from 6 to G days, the
muleteer (charvadar), who contracts for
the party; marching on foot. From
Shiraz to IsfaliAn, and thence to TchrAn,
there is a chapar service.
Bashirs, Abu-thehr , the chief sea-
port of Persia, lies at the end of a
peninsula 11m. long by 4 m. broad —
the Memmbria, where the lleet of
N rarehus cast andhof. It was ti fishing
village when seleotcd by Nadir Shah,
about 1742, as his southern port
The anchorage is about 2} m. from
the shore in an open roadstead much
exposed to gales. The streets are, as
a rule, narrow and filthy. The cli-
mate is trying but not unhealthy.
Water is scarce. The population,
15,000, is of Arab and mixed Arab
and Persian descent, with a few
Armenians and Europeans. There
is a British residency with Indian
guard. G m. 8. of Bushire is the old
Portuguese fort of Jteshire , near which
bricks with cuneiform characters have
been found in some mounds. Hern
arc the offices of the Indo-European
Telegraph Department , and the Euro-
pean residences.
There are two routes from Ttnshire
to Hhiraz; the longer , and easier
(6G fars.), passes through Firus-abad,
abode of victor? w (ruins of castle ;
Sassanian bas-reliefs in gorge N. of
town— one representing the investi-
ture of Ardeshir (Artaxerxes) with
the eydarit by Ormuzd, the other an
equestrian combat; the ruins of the
palaoe of Ardeshir, and of his great
fire altar).
Tim shorter road runs over a salt
marsh, 44 the Moshileh,” lo Chahyadak
(4 fars.), a small fort on rising ground ;
and thence over the plain post Ah-
medi (5 fnrs. ; khan), I standi , and
Ehushab , where Outram defeated the
Persians, 8th Feb., 1857, to
*Boraqjun (6 furs.X alt 100 ft., a
small palm-girdled town with largo
khan. Continuing over gently un-
dulating ground past a hot spring, a
large feverish Swamp fed by streams
impregnated with sulphur, and a
bitumen pit, we reach
Daliki (0 fars.), and, 1 m. beyond
it, enter the hills. After asoending
the gorge of the Daliki river, nud
crossing the stream by a bridge, we
climb the Kotal-i-Malu^ u cursed
pass," the first of the kotals , or tor-
tuous stairways in the rock, which
have been described as the kind of
Digitized by L^ooQle
834 Haute 117. — Koitar-lakhleh — Haxltt-i- Aiken*
marks that would be left by the im*
pression of a gigantic Corkscrew oil
the vertical side of a mountain.
Above the pass lies the fertile plain
of Khuht, which is traversed to
*Konar-takhteh (3 fare.), alt 1800
ft, a small hamlet with Kh&n. 8 m.
beyond the village we strike the
Shapur river, and then ascend the
Kotal-i-Kamarij, one of the steepest
and most difficult hotaU in Persia.
There is a rise of 1200 ft in less than
1 m., and the track is in places so
narrow that laden mules cannot pass.
In the worst port of it Asad Kh&n, an
Afghan claimant to the Persian
throne, was defeated (1752) by Kerim
Kh&n Zend. From the summit there
is a short descent to Kamarii (3 fare.),
alt. 2950 ft., a small village in a plain
that is crossed to the mouth of a wind-
ing gorge, Teng-i-Turkan. Through
this a rough road leads to the plain
in which lies
*Kasran (10 fare.), alt. 2750 ft., a
fair sized town with upper and lowor
quarters. It is famous for its oranges,
its mules, its school of wrestlers
(pehltoan), and its rough shoes of cotton
and hide.
[Travellers should not omit a visit to
the ruins and sculptured bas-reliefs of
8hapur. In coming up from the Gulf
they should make the excursion from
Kamarij, starting early ; in going down,
from Kazrun. The ruins of Shapur — a
litter of stones and rubbish- lie at the
base of the mountains, about ui. N.E.
of the point at which the track to Kazrun
enters the plain. The city was founded
by Shapur i. (Sapor, a.d. 241-272), and
over its gates was set up the stuffed skin
of the founder of the Monichcan heresy.
It was destroyed by the Arabs whou they
overran Persia. At the mouth of the
gorge, Teng-i-Chakan, through which
the Shapur river flows to the plaim are
thcruins of the citadel ,Kalek-i-Dolhter.
On the rock-walls of the gorge are
6 bas-relief*. On the 1. hank, on a
level with the spectator, are (i.) Sha-
pur, Valerian suppliant, and a prostrate
figure that typifies the vanquished
Homan army ; the tablet has suffered
much from time and iconoclasts,
and the upper portion his entirely
perished. ( 11 .) The investiture of Cy-
riadls with the imperial purple in the
presence of the captive Valerian. Sha-
pur is mounted and wears a turretted
crown with superimposed orb, and in
front of his horse's head is an inscrip-
tion in 5 lines ; the tablet is 41 ft. long
and 20 ft. high. On the rt. bank,
20-50 ft. above the river, are: (iii.) In-
vestiture of Cyriadis with the Imperial
purple, (iv.) One of the Sassaninn
monarchs on horseback receiving the
submission and offerings of captives —
much damaged by a mill-stream, (v.)
Onnuzd and Narses (a.d. 292-301) on
horseback, (vi.) Triumph of Khusru,
who wears a double crown. High up in
the face of the cliff, above the tablets on
the rt. bank, is the mouth of a large
cavern, in the middle of which is a
pedestal that was once surmounted by
a statue of Shapur I. about 20 ft. high.
On the pedestal are still the sandalled
feet and the stumps of the legs of the
statue, which has fallen and is much
mutilated. 50 yds. from the entrance
the cavern expands into a large dome,
and thence passages, ono 400 yds. long,
lead further into the interior. It is a
climb of $ hr. to the cave, and candles
are required for its exploration. The
caravan track is rejoined 6 m. from
Kazrun, which is about 5 fars. from the
monuments.]
After leaving Kazrun we pass Lahe
Famur (good wild-fowl shooting) and
the Takht-i-Timur, a defaced modem
sculpture, and cross the Koial-t-
D oh liter, by a sharp zigzag ascent of
700 ft., and short descent to tho
Yalley of Dasht-i-barm . Thence we
ascend to the khan at
Mian Kotal, “ mid-pms n (5 fars.),
alt. 5500 ft, on a platform of rock,
rather less than half-way up tho
Kotal-i- Pirizan. The path to tho
summit, 7400 ft., resembles a dry
Alpine torrent-bed; the descent on
the other side is easier to a plain,
at the N. end of which is
*Dasht-i-Arsen (8 fars.), alt. 6400 ft.
A large variety of game is found in
the neighbourhood — maneless lion,
boar, hyaena, wolf, antelope (coursed
with greyhounds), ibex, mountain
Digitized by
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335
llouie 117 . — Shiraz — Ptrsepolis.
sheep, wild-fowl, Ac. An easy road
on to
Khfin-i-Zinian (3 fare.), alt. 6100 ft
Thence thero is a steady descent to
the plain, in the centrO of which,
surrounded by gardens, stands
♦flhlro* (9 fars.), alt 4750 ft, “ the
home of poets, and rose-bowers, and
nightingales, the haunt of jollity, and
the Elysian fields of love, praised in
a hundred odes as tho fairest gem of
Iran.” It is tho capital of Fare, nnd
from its situation near the ancient
capitals, as Well as from its Iranian
population, it is the central point of
Fenian nationality. The town was
founded, near the site of an earlier
Achaemenian or Sassanian city, about
the end of the 7th centy. ; and 700
years later, when taken by Tim Or, it
was the capital of the Muzaffar
dynasty of princes. In the time of
the ascendency of tho Zend, or purely
Persian tribes, 8hirez was the capital
of the country, and it owes some of
its best buildings to the Zond chief
Kerim Khan (1751-79), whoso suc-
cessor, Lutf All Khfin, was displaced
by the first prince of the K^jar
dynasty. The town was sacked and
laid waste by the Kajar eunuch
chieftain, and, haying suffered much
from earthquakes, especially in 1855,
1862, and 1864, it is now more or less
in decay;
8hiraz has a fine baz&r built by
Kerim Khfin, and some good houses,
but the streets are narrow and un-
attractive. On the N. side of the
Meidan is the audience-chamber of
Kerim Khfin’s palace, now occupied
by the Indo-European and Persian
telegraph establishments. There are
numerous medresses, baths, and khdns.
The mosque f, the oldest of which was
built a.d. 875, are of local repute, but
look more picturesque when seen
from a distance. 8hiraz is celebrated
for its wine, its tumbaki, its inlaid
work (wood and metal), and its
repoussS silver work. ' On the N. side
of the town are many pleasant
gardens, such os the Bagh-t-Takht,
the Bagh-i-No , tho Jehan Nemah , and
the Dilgusha, which give in ample
measure the Persian requirements of
shade and the purling of water.
About 1 m. N.E. of the city is tho
tomb of 8adi, the poet, the author of
the Boston and the Oulistan, who
died in 1291. The Umb of Hafis, the
Anacreon of Persia, who died in 1389,
and whoso lyrics in praise of wine
and flowers, of nightingales and
women, ore collected in tho Divan, is
scarcely 1 ro. to the north. It is a
fine marble monument with a beauti-
fully inscribed ode, in an enclosure
called Haflziyeh. About 4 m. S.E. of
the town are 8 portals of stone with
figures in relief, and a little further,
near the Maharlu Lake, are 8 rook-
tablets with Sassanian sculptures.
Good sport may be hod in the neigh-
bourhood of the town.
Leaving Shiraz by the Isfahfin
Gate we pass through the Deh-i-
Buxura suburb, and enter the Teng-4 -
Allah-hu-Akbar through *n arched
gateway. From this point the view
over city and plain is so striking that
the tmvollor is impellod to exclaim
* Allah-hu-Akbar,’ ” “God is Great.”
The ascent, up the valley of a little
rivulet, the Ruknabad of Hafiz, is
gradual, but from the summit thero
is a steep stony descent to Bajgah
( Jehan ), whence a barren tract is crossed
to
Zerghun (5 fare.), a place famous
for its muleteers. About 2 fare,
further on we cross tho Pul-i-khdn , — a
lofty bridge over the Kur, anct.
A raxes, a little below its junction
with the Polvar, anct Medm , Below
the bridge the united stream is called
Band-amir, the Benderaeer of Moore,
from a great dam built, cirp, a.d. 970,
about 8 m. lower down. We now
enter the plain of Merv-dasfd, watered
by Kanats , and, passing Kushk , reach
Ffiieh (4} fore.), a post station at
the mouth of the Polvar valley within
easy distance of the ruins of
Persepolis, which stretch from Is-
takhr, at the mouth of the Polvar,
to the tombs at Naksh-i-Rustam on
Digitized by L^ooQle
330
Houle 1 \1 .—Naksh-l-Hustaul.
iho N., ami to Takht-i-Jamsliid on tary rook-hewn shaft, and Heat it am
the S., and extend far out on the some levelled spaces supposed to liavo
fronting plain. Persepolis was ap- been platforms for the exposure of the
parently the summer residence of the dead. CO yds. round the oornor of
Persian kings. It was first known to the cliff, where it turns N., are two
the Greeks in the timo of Alexander, fire altars, hewn out of a projecting
who surrendered It to tlio plunder of moss of rock about 13 ft. above the
his soldiers, and burned its palaces, plain.
The only later mention of the city is The Sassanian bat- relief $ are.' —
in 2 Maco. ix. 1, 2, where it is said (a), between the 1st and 2nd tombs*
to have been taken and burned by Varahran II., or V., and his queen ;
Antiochus Epiphanos (u.c. 164). The (ft, c), below Darius' tomb, various
most important remains arc stages of a combat in which Varah-
ran IV. (a.d. 888-90) charges a oava-
(i.) Haksh-i-Bustam. About 1 } m. lier at full gallop, with lanco in rest ;
from Puzeh, on the rt. bank of the (cl), between the 2nd and 3rd tombs,
Polvar, is a cliff-wall known as Hussein the capture of Valerian (a.d. 260) by
Kuh. Here, in a space of about Sbapur ; (e), below the 4th tomb, an
200 yds., are the rock-hewn sepulchres equestrian combat ; (J\ near the end
of the Achaemenian kings, and a of the bluff, Varahran II. and his
series of panels containing Sassuniaii courtiers ; (9), near tho preceding,
lias-reliefs. the investiture of Ardeshir, the foun-
The four Unnbs are similar in their der of the Sassanian line, with the
general character. The entrance is imperial cyduris by the god Ormuzd.
in the oontre of a facade, with bull-
headed oolumns, representing that of (ii.) Istakhr, closo to Puzeh. The
un Achacinenian palace. Over the name Istakhr first appoars a.d. 200,
fa9ude are two rows of figures sup- as tho seat of a local governor under
porting a platform, on which stunds tho l'urtliian dynasty. Hero tho
tho king (about 7 ft. high), in his Zoroastriau fires burned unceasingly,
royal robes — bis right hand uplifted and here stood the temple of the
with a gesture of adoration towards goddess Anaitis, one of whoso priests,
an image of the god Ormuzd. Tho Sassan, was grandfather of Anlcshir,
interior consists of a vestibule, behind who threw off the Parthian yoke
which are recesses with loculi for tho (a.d. 226). The town snooessfully
bodies. The first tomb, on tho E., is resisted the assaults of Omar (639),
well preserved, but cannot be reached but yielded five years later. Its
without a ladder. Tho second , which citadel was built on an isolated rock
has a trilingual inscription, is tho by the Khulif Moawiyeh in tho 7th
tomb of Darius Hystaspca Tho centy. In 1621 it was in ruins. The
figures supporting the royal plat- remains consist of a great gateway,
form represent the nationalities that a column with double bull-headed
acknowledged him king of kings, capital, and mounds of dtbrie.
Here the favourite euuuch of Darius
lived for 7 years after his muster's (iii.) Takht-i-Baitam, about 1} m.
death ; and here tho father and mother 8. of Istakhr, is a terrace of white
of the king were accidentally killed limestone raised about 7 ft above the
when being drawn up by the Magi to plain in which it lies. About } m.
visit the unfinished tomb. The third N. is a doorway with figures of priests
is well preserved; tho fourth much in high relief; and in the plain
defaced. The three tombs without opposite tho S.W. cud of the tcrraco
inscriptions aro possibly those of are tho ruins of a building, of which
Xerxes, Artaxerxes I., ana Darius II. one column stood in 1803.
Opposite the 4th tomb is a square
building, apparently n royal or princely (iv.) Kakth - i - Rsjs b. Iu a small
sepulchre. On the cliff stunds a soli- recess in the rock, about 2 in. 8. of
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Ibmte 117 . — Takht-i-Jamshul.
337
Istaklir, aro three early Sassauian
sculptures, two of which represent
Ormuzd and Ardeshir, and the third
Sliapur and his body-guard. At some
height above tho ground is a Pchlevi
inscription.
(v.) Takht-i-Jamshid, or Chehd
Miuare , the “ forty minarets,'* about
4 no. 8. of Istakhr. Tho ruins are
tlioeo of a great platform built out
from the mountain base, and of the
royal audienco halls and palaces which
it supported.
The platform, which lie* approxi-
mately N. and 8., is 1523 ft long and
320 ft wide, and varies in height
from 20 ft to 50 ft. above the plain.
It is partly rook-hown and partly
built with large stones originally held
together by metal cramps. On the 8.
wall are four cuneiform inscriptions,
which state that it was the work of
Darius. A grand staircase, in a bay
in the W. wall, of so gentle a slope
that horsemen can ride up and down,
lends to the surface of the platform,
which has four levels. The first, on
the 8., about 20 ft. above tho plain,
apparently supported no buildings.
On the second, 10 ft higher, stand
the Porch of Xerxes, and behind it
the Hall of 100 columns ; on the third
the Hall of Xerxes ; and on the fourth,
about 50 ft. above the plain, the
palaces of Darius and Xerxes. The
stone for the platform and the build-
ings was obtained from quarries in
the Kuh-i-Rahmet, from which tho
platform projects.
Tho halls and palaces. About
45 ft. from the head of the staircase is
the Porch of Xerxes , consisting of two
bull-flanked portals, and a central hall,
whoso roof was supported by 21 great
columns with Persepolitan capitals.
Above the bulls are trilingual inscrip-
tions of Xerxes. 54 yds. 8. of the
Porch is the magnificent sculptured
front of the platform that sustained
the Audience Sail of Xerxes. In the
centre are armed guards, and lions
attacking bulls; and on either side
aro triple rows of figures, forming a
grand procession. At the W. end is
an inscription of Xerxes. On the
[ Turkey .]
turfuco of I ho platform, which was
approached by four flights of steps,
are the remains of the great ball
which, when perfect, must have been
the chief glory of Perscpolis. Of tho
72 original columns 13 are standing,
some with their peculiar capitals,
terminating in two demi-bulls, in situ.
Passing through the Hall to the 8. wo
come to the Palace of Darius, a smaller
but more perfect building. On the 8.
ore two staircases, and hero the face
of the platform is riohly decorated
with processions of armed warriors,
&c., and an inscription. A third
staircase, on the W. front, was added
by Artaxerxes III., Ochus (n.c.
361-38). Above this is a doorway
with bas-reliefs of a oombat between
the king and a griffin. In the door-
way on the 8. side of the central hall
is a bas-relief of the king with the
royal umbrella held by two attendants
over his head. Round the windows,
in the doorways, and on the piers, aro
cuneiform inscriptions of Darius and
Xerxes, Peblevi inscriptions of
8hapur II. and III., a Kuflo inscrip-
tion and odo inscribed by Sultan
Ibrahim, the grandson of Timflr, and
on inscription (cire. 1862) in honour of
Nasr-ed-din 8hah. 8. of the palace
are the ruins of the Palace of Arta-
xerxes III. , approached by a staircase
ornamented with processional figures.
E. of this building are the remains of
the Palace of Xerxes, approached by
four flights of steps, which resembles
in form, but is much larger than, the
palace of Darius. The doorways,
windows, and niches are adorned with
sculptures and numerous inscriptions.
Beneath the floor of the central hall
thoro is an rjpioduct. About 180 yds.
E. are the remains of another palace
with soulptures. bnt no inscriptions.
N. of this, behind the mound E. of
the palace of Darius, is the Central
Edifice, consisting of three great door-
ways, on tho jambs of which aro
sculptured the king under the royal
umbrella with Ormuzd above, and tbe
king on a triple staged throne sup-
S orted by 3 rows of 9 figures each.
lose to this, on a level with the
Porch of Xerxes, is the BaU of 100
8
Digitized by L^ooQle
338
Route 117 . — Hajjt-abad — Yezdikhast.
Column 0, which was perhaps the
Audience Hall of Darius. It consists
pf a liall 225 ft square, the roof of
which was supported by 100 oolumns
in 10 rows of 10 oolumns each, with a
1 x>rtico on the, N. of 16 columns in
wo rows of 8 columns. The hall is
surrounded by 44 stone doorway* and
windows, which were once united by
a wall of sun-dried brick. The interior
is a wilderness of pillar bases, capitals.
Ac. The bas-reliefs are on a grand
scale, and represent combats between
the king and a monster, the king on a
triply-staged throne upheld by the
anna of subject nationalities, the king
with guards receiving ambassadors,
and rows of warriors. About 190 ft.
N. of the portico are remains of a
bull-flanked porch.
Beneath the platform are numerous
lofty passages, some rock-hewn, others
of masonry, which were apparently
channels for water. In the faoe of the
rock from which the platform projects
arc three royal tombs. They have no
inscriptions, but arc evidently of lator
date than thoso at Nuksh-hRustam,
and oro possibly those of Aituxerxus II.
and III., and Darius III.
Leaving Puzeh we ascend the valley
of the Polvar for 8 m. to
Hsjji-abad. Here, in a cliff on the
rt. bank of the river, is the cave of
Sheikh Alt , in which are five panels
prepared for inscriptions. The only
two filled contain the celebrated bilin-
gual epigraph of Shapur I. Higher
up the valley, are Saidan (2$ fare.,
Lure); Sivend (Tel. Station) on the
mountain side ; and Kawom-abad
(8 1 fars.). Above the last place the
valley becomes a narrow gorge with
high precipitous limestone cliffs on
either sido, and the way lies through
this to Mesjid-i-Mader-i- Suleiman, in
the plain of Murghab, Near the vil-
lage, and bearing the same name, is tho
Tomb of Oyrus, standing on a
pedestal of seven steps, which was
once surrounded by a colonnade. The
tomb chamber is entered by a small
door. Grossing the plain, we next
pome to a platform that once supported
a palace, the bases of some of whose
columns remain. Near one of these
is a limestone block with a figure,
supposed to be that of Oyrus, whose
inscription it once bore. Further on
are a column and the remains of a
building with a trilingual inscription
of Cyrus. 300 yds. JI. is a monolith
with a trilingual inscription, “I am
2 rrus the king, the Achaemenian.”
ore to the N. are the remains of a
building, probably a tomb, and 800
yds. N. is the Takht-i-Suleiman — a
platform built of large stones with
marginal drafts, which was apparently
intended to support a Hall of Audience.
These ruins, combined, are probably
those of Pasargadae , an ancient
Persian town.
Leaving the ruins we pass through
Deh-i-nau to Murghab (3| fars.),
alt. 6200 ft Thenoe to Khdneh
Kurgan (a khan on the upper Polvar) ;
♦Deh-bid (7 fars.), alt. 7500 ft. ; Kh&n-
i-Xhoreh (5 fars., khan) ; and over
wild undulating country poopled by
Bakhtioris, Kashkai, and otlier iliy&ts,
to tho gardens of Surmek (7 fars.),
whenoo tliero is a caravan route to
Yezd. Thence to *Abadeh (4 tors.),
a walled village with gardens; Shul-
gistan (5 fars.), and
Yesdikhast (6 fareA alt 6500 ft.,
built on a rock in the middle of a
fissure over 100 ft. deep — the old
boundary between Fare and Irak —
through which a swift stream flows E.
The rock is about 400 yds. long, and
tho only approach is from the 1. bank,
by a wooden bridge which leads to a
low doorway pierced in the rock. The
main street is so completely built over
as to form a subterranean alley. After
passing Maksud-begi (6 fare.) ; *Ku-
misheh (4 fare.) ; and Mayor (5 fare.),
where are the ruins of a fine caravan-
serai built by the mother of Shah
Abbas, we cross the Kotal-i Urchin to
Marg, and thence travel over undu-
lating ground to Jul/a, the Armenian
suburb of
♦Isfahan (9 fare), alt. 5300 ft The
city stands on the 1. bonk of the
Digitized by
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Route 117 . — Is/ahdn.
339
Zendeh Bud, in the midst of a plain
75 m. by 20 m., which is surrounded
by mountains of singular serrated
outline. Isfahan, the Jai of the Sas-
■anlan epoch, was taken by Omar in
64 1 after the battle of Nihavend. After-
wards it fell to Mahmud of Ghazni,
the Sejjftks, Jengldz Kh&n, Timftr,
who massacred 70,000 of the people,
and to the Ak Koyunli. It was made
the capital of Persia by 8hah Abbas,
and during tho reign of the Sefavi
monarohs it is said to havo had from
600,000 to 1,100,000 inhabitants. In
1722 it was taken by the Afghans,
who sacked it, and overthrew and
defiled the palaces, gardens, and
houses. From this disaster it has
never recovered. One-fourth of the
city is in ruins ; the streets are narrow,
dirty, and mean ; the palaces, mosques,
houses, and baz&rs are deserted ; the
houses are of earth and brick; and
nothing is to be seen in the streets
but a uniform dead wall.
The centre of tho city is the Meidan-
- i-Shah, one of the most imposing
piazzas in the world ; it was laid out
by Shah Abbas, and is surrounded
with buildings. On part of the N<
and E. sides are the bazars, with a fine
entrance called Nakkara Khdneh. On
tho E. side is the Mosque of Sheikh -
Lutfallah, its dome covered with
enamelled tiles. In the centre of the
8. side is the Mesjid-i-Shah, erected,
1612-18, by Shah Abbas, which, even
In its docav, is a superb example of
the style of the Sefavi kings. On the
W. side, near the S. end, is the Alt
Kapu , “ Sublime Porte ” ; above the
doorway is the talar or open portal
in which the Shah sat to give auaience
to ambassadors, and to witness the
public entertainments in the Meidan.
The doorway gives access to the Royal
Palace, which, with its courts, gardens,
and pavilions, covered a large area.
It is still tho residence of the Zil-es-
Sultan, or Governor of Isfahan. The
most famous building is the Chehel
Situn , “ Hall of Forty Pillars,’* built
by Shah Abbas, in which was the
principal throne room. The decora-
tion of the throne room is still intact,
and is very fin& Behind this room
there is a large hall, the walls of which
are almost covered by six enormous
oil paintings of great historic interest,
some of them dating from the reign of
Shah Abbas. On the W. side of the
royal precincts is tho Hasht Behesht,
the u Eight Paradises a garden
with a pavilion built by 8hah Sulei-
man, about 1670, and restored by Fath
Ali Shah, who covered the walls with
frescoes and oil paintings. From Die
W. side of the palace enclosure a fine
avenue, the Chehar Bagh , runs for
1350 yds. to the bridge of Ali Verdi
Khan. It was formerly the principal
promenade and resort of the people of
Isfahan, but the avenues of chenars
have been cut down or pollarded, and
the avenue is in ruins. Near the
Hasht Behesht is the Medresse-i-Shah-
Hussein, built oirc. 1710. The door-
ways are adorned by chased silver
plates; M a wainscoting of marble of
Vezd runs round the base ; and above
this the archways and recesses, the
lintels and fa^es, are coverod with
magnificent tiles and panels of
enamelled arabesques.” Tne Mesjid-
i-.Juma, a Friday Mosque,” built by
El-Mansur, a.d. 755, is interesting,
but the restorations of Melik Shah, of
Shah Tahmasp, and of Abbas II. have
deprived it of gonuino artistic value.
The batdrs are extensive, tho visitor
can walk for 2 or 8 m. under cover.
Amongst the manufactures are all
kinds of woven fabrios, from velvet to
calico ; gold and silver trinkets ; guns,
pistols, sword-blades, glass, earthen-
ware, Ac. The number of sweetmeat
shops is a noticeable feature.
Tiie Zendeh Rud, which flows S. of
Isfah&n, is crossed bjr 5 bridges. The
highest up-stream is Pul-i-Mamun ,
built by Shah Tahmasp (1528-75) and
now little used. The next is the
famous galleried bridae of Ali Verdi
Khdn, the general of Shah Abbas, also
called the bridge of Julfa, which is
perhaps the finest bridge in tho
world. Its length is 888 yds., and
the breadth of paved roadway 30 ft.
There is a triple promenade — a vaulted
passage below, a roadway with lateral
galleries above, and an open footpath
z 2 •
Digitized by
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340
Route 117 . — Kuhntd — K ash an.
ut tho top of all. This bridge con-
nected the Chehor Bagh with a similar
avenue, ou the S. side of tho river,
which was bordered by the palaces
and mansions of princes and grandees,
and closed ut tho upper end by u
royal enclosure known as tho Hazar
Jerib. The bridge and the two
avenues made up a length of 2} m.
Below this bridgu is Pul-i-Jhubi, con-
structed as an aqueduct to supply tho
Palace of Haft Dest on the rt. bank.
Tho ruins of the palace, of a talar
called Aineh-Khaneh , “ Hall of Mir-
rors,*’ and of tho gardens, are still
visible. 300 yds. lower down is Pal*
t-Khaju, an interesting bridge built
by Abbas II. Tho lowest bridgoj
Put-i Shehristan is soino miles from the
modern city.
8. of tho Zendcli Bud is the Arme-
nian suburb of Julfa, in which all
Europeans reside. In 1604 Shah
Ablias translated several thousand
Armenian families from Julfa ou the
Araxes to his now capital, and allowed
them to call their suburb Julfa. Tho
colony was at one timo 30,000, but
under Nadir Shah they were terribly
persecuted, and at his death in 1747
they dispersed, and now only number
about 2000. Tho Qregorians have a
cathedral, built in the reign of Shah
Abbas. Tho liom&n Catholics are
under the jurisdiction of a Jesuit
priest. There is a Mission of the
Church of England Missionary So-
ciety, with clergy, a resident medical
officer, lay teachers, a lino church, a
dispensary, and schools for boys and
girls. The congregation numbers
about 200. The British Consular
Agent and the European Telegraph
officials reside at Julfa.
The Isfali&nis are niggardly aud
close in business matters. According
to a popular saying, (4 the merchant
of iBfah&n will put his cheese into
a bottle, and rub his bread on the out-
side to give it a flavour.” Tho Arme-
nians have a bad reputation for
drunkenness.
At Otdadany about 6 m. W. of Isfa-
han, are tho shaking minarets of the
shrine of &heikb Abdullah. “Ap
individual usually ascends the right-
hand tower, where, by pressing against
the walls, and swaying to and fro, he
imparts an oscillation to the minaret
which, passing ulong the intervening
platform about 30 ft. in length, is
oommunioatod to tho other tower ; so
that both of them visibly sway with
the operator, describing a deviation of
several inches from the perpendicu-
lar.” On an isolated hill, near the
shrine, are some ruins on the tradi-
tional site of Atesh Gah , a fire-altar
erected by Ardeshir Longimanus. In
a recess in tho Kuh-i-Suflfa, 8. of
Julfa, are the ruins of a summer house
of Shuh Suleiman, called Talcht-i-Su -
leiman. At the foot of the same
range was tho famous palace Ferah-
abady “Abode of Joy, which was
destroyed by the Afghans.
Leaving Isfahan we travol over tho
plain to Qaz (3 fnrs.) and then by
(hirgalf, and the large kh&n of Mador -
i-Shuh to
Murchakhar (6 far.), a place near
which Nadir Shah defeated tho
Afghans in 1720. Thence by a
gradual ascent we reach Dch-lur
aud *Soh (7 fare.), and, crossing an
easy pass, 8750 ft., descend to
Kuhrud (5 fare.), alt 7250 ft., a
largo village famous for its fruit
(walnuts, plums, pears, and apples).
About 2} fare, down the valley we pass
a stouo dam made by Ali Verdi Kliitn,
which dams up a stream and forms a
lake of some size. Some distanco
further on is Guebre-abad , a small
khan , and ruined settlement of the
Zoroastrians. Beyond this place we
catch sight of Demavend, and reaching
the plain, cross it to
♦Xashan (7 fare.), alt. 3200 ft, a
large dilapidated town said to have
Wn founded by Zobeide, the wife ot
HarCtn er- Rashid, but perhaps older.
It is famous for the industrial apti-
tude of its inhabitants, its silk manu-
factures, its bnusand copper utensils,
its faience , and its scorpions — a black
variety noted for its venomous bite.
the 8. quarter of the town are tho
Digitized by L^ooQle
841
Rotite 1 18.- — Kuib — Bandar Abbai,
baz6r$y the Mesj id-i-Meidan, with a
mthrab in embossed and enamelled
faience, a tall leaning minaret, and
large khans. The town has reoently
(1895) been almost destroyed by
earthquake. 4 m. 8.W. of Kashan is
the palace of Fin, built by Shah Abbas,
and rebuilt by Fath All Shah, and
now in bad repair. The road onward
lies over the plain past Nush-abad,
with its blue-domed imanuadeh, and
other villages to Slnsin (G fare.),
Fasangun (7 fan.), and
♦Kum (4 fan), alt. 8100 ft, tho
second most sacred shrine in Persia.
It was sacked by Timftr, and almost
destroyed by the Afghans: and has
since been in a state of more or less
decay. Here are buried Fatima, the
sister of Imam Riza ; several monarchs
of tho Sofavi dynasty ; Fath Ali Shah
of tho Kajar dynasty, and other kings
and princes. The shrine of Fatima,
a great object of pilgrimage, has a
gilded cupola and tile-encrusted
minarets. It stands in a large court
surrounded by a wall, outside of which
is a vast cemetery. Christians are not
admitted, but Fraser (1821 ) and Bick-
ncll (1869) entered tho mosque and
visited the tomb-chamber in tusguiso.
Amongst the population are many
sayids, who are much given to bigotry
and superstition. Numerous imam -
tadeht are erected over the remains of
famous saints who have been buried in
the cemetery.
There aro 8 roads from Kum to
Tchritn. (i.) The carriage-road by
Manzarieh, the W. shore of the newly-
formed lake, Aliabad, and Hussein-
abad. (ii.) The new poii-road which
follows (i.) to Ali-dbad and runs thence
by Kinaregird to Tehrdn . And (iii.)
tho old post-road by Pul-l-dalak
(4 fare.); the Dasht-i-Kamr , which
Imcame partly covered by a salt lako
in 1888: Haus-i-Saltan (G fara.); tho
Malek-el-Maut Here, 44 Valley of tho
Angel of the Shadow of Death,” sup-
posed to be infested by jins, ghouls,
and monsters; Kinaregird (6 fara);
and HuSsein-abad, to
Tehrdn (7 fara., p. 817).
ROUTE 118.
BANDAR ABBAB— K^RMAN^YilD—
TEHRAN.
fcfLKS
VARS*
K Arman , .
3H2* =
110
Yead
Slot =
60
Kuban .
32S+ =
66
TabrAn, bj Rtt. Ill
40
This route crosses the Iranian pla-
teau, and can be followed by travel-
lers, passing through Persia from or
to India. From Yezd the post-road
runs round by Isfahan, whilst the
direct road continues over the plain
to Kashan.
Bandar Abbas. A walled town of
wretched houses with about 5000 in-
habitants (Persians, Kurds, Arabs,
and Armenians). The port has only
2 or 8 fathoms of water 2 m. out, and
during strong 8. and 8.E. winds
landing is impossible, rhiring sum-
mer the heat is so great that all but
the poorest inhabitants go to Minab ,
about 14 m. inland.
The routo lies over the plain past
a few villages to Takht-i-Khush-Kuk
(39 m.); camp under Knh-i-Niyun
(20 m.) ; ovor a difficult pass to Gttdar
Shuran (30 m.); over hilly ground to
Rnd-KhAneh-i-Duzdi (15 m.X on the
boundary between tho provinces of
Fare and Karman ; over plain to Gu-
lashkird (19 m.X Vekil-abad (21 m.X
Kugu (80 m.X and Karim-abad (15
m.); over a soft muddy plain, cross-
ing the Halir and 8hor rivers, which
are impassable when tho snows are
melting in spring, to Dasht-i-Kurh
(20 m.); camp on side of hills
(24 m.); cross tho Jnmal llari* range,
by the Dell Bakri pass. 7770 ft., to a
hhdn (16 m.); descend by Deh Bakri
to Sarvistan (22 m., good kh&ns) ;
Tehrut (12 m.) ; Raian (33 m.) ; cross
the hills to Khanalca (26 m.> alt.
7590 ft.; gradual descent to Mahun
Digitized by L^ooQle
342 Route 119. — Karman— Yezd.
(17} m.), ft rich village with a mag-
nificent mosque ; descend and cross
sandy desert to
Barman (23 in.), alt 5600 ft., the
capital of a province of tho samo
name. It stands beneath tho moun-
tains on the edge of a large plain and
is a large placo with a population of
about 30,000, including a few Parsis.
Its bazars are well supplied and its
shawls, felts, and matchlocks are
celebrated all over Asia.
There are two roads from Karman
to Yezd, both over level country.
The post-road runs to Baghin (14}
ra.); Rabat (16 m.); Bahram-abad
(36 m.), a town of about 10,000 in-
habitants. with a large bazdr and
good kiidn ; Kushkuh (22} m.) ; Anar
(32} m.) ; +Karmanshahan (36 m.);
8ar-i-Yezd (31} m.); Yezd (22 m.).
(iL) The alternative route runs through
ASer-abad (15 m.) ; Alidbad (23 m.) ;
Zarand (8} in.), a large village;
Akbar-abad (12 m); Khud-abad (28
m.); Uauz-i-Dakk (18} m.); Bafk
(38 m.X a small town with date palms ;
Uauz-i-Taba kuh (24} m.); Pharaj
(26} m.); Yezd (15 m.).
Yezd, alt. 3870 ft., the capital of a
district of the same name, stands in
a desert plain, and is threatened with
destruction by the advancing sand.
It has a population of about 30,000,
including some 4000 Parsis, and
1000 Jews. Its bazdr is well stocked,
and it is noted for its silk manufac-
ture.
[The post-road leaves the direct rood
at Nao Gumbos (93 m.), and, running
through Bambiz (12 m.), crosses the
hills by Lagharah (1C m.) to Kuhpa
(80 m.), where there is one of the finest
khans m Persia. It then passes through
Sagzi (21 m.) and Quln-abad (16 m.l to
Isfahan (14 m.), and thence follows Rtc.
117 to Tehran.)
The direct rood runs through
Himat-abad (20 m.) ; Alaibut (16 m.) ;
Shahr-abad (31 m.); Nao Gumbos
(26 m.), water brackish, a khdn
erected by Shah Abbas; Nain (16
m.); Nehistanak (17. m.); Jogmd , or
Zaferkand (21} m.); Ardistan (13 }
m.); Moghar (17} m.); Kalat-abaa
(14 m.) ; ibu-Zeid-abad (17 m.) ; to
Kashan (17 m.), whence Rte. 117 is
followed to Tshrdn (p. 317).
ROUTE 119.
INDIA, Vl£ Tint PER8IAN QULF.
Travellers proceeding from Eng-
land to India, or vice versd, by way
of tho Persian Gulf, can travel by
several routes, all interesting cither
from the historic, military, political,
or commercial importance of the places
passed through, or from the manners
and customs of the people. On all
the routes there are, in places, fine
scenery and good sport The season
must be selected according to the
route followed. On the Persian pla-
teau the best months are October to
January, and March to May; on tho
highlands of E. Anatolia from June
to November; and in Mesopotamia
from November to March. The cost ,
provided one is not accompanied by
a dragoman, or European servant,
should not exceed from 1301. to 1501.
The time will depend on the route
followed; from London to Baku on
the Caspian is 8 or 9 days; from
Baku to Enzeli steamers run weekly
from May to November in 30 to 36
hrs. ; from Basra to Bombay by stea-
mers touching at Bushire, Bandar
Abbas, and othor intermediate ports,
from 13 to 14 days. The number of
days from London to Constantinople,
the Black Sea ports, Smyrna, and
Alexandretta, can be ascertained from
the usual sources. A passport is
necessary for all the routes.
Digitized by Tooele
843
Route 119 . — India: Routes,
Routes through Russia and Persia .
(i.) By Bait, vid 8. Petersburg, to
Tsaritsin on the Volga; by river boat
to Astrakhan ; by Caucasus and Mer-
cury Co.’s steamer to Baku and En-
zeli; by steam-launch, boat, and
horseback to Resht; by caravan or
M chapar ” to Kuhdum (5 fare.), Uus-
tem-aood (5 fars.), Monjil (5 fare. X
and Khazan (4 fare.), to Kazvin
(0 fare.); by Rto. 110 to Tohrftn;
by one of the routes leading to
Basra, Mohammerah, Bushire, or
Bandar Abbas; by steamer to Bom-
bay.
(ii.) By Rail, via 8. Petersburg and
Moscow, to VIndikAvkas; by carriage
over tho Dariel road to Tiflis ; by Rail
to Baku (see i.).
(iii.) By Rail, rid Berlin and Cra-
cow, to Odessa ; by steamer to B&tftra ;
by Rail to Baku (see i.).
(iv.) By Rail or steamer to Con-
stantinople; by steamer to BatOin
(soo iii.).
(v.) Prom Tiflis by Rte. 80 to Eri-
van and Tabriz; by. Rto. 110 to
Tclirftn (sec i.).
Route through Turkey and Persia.
(vi.) From Constantinople by Rte.
1 to Trebizond ; by Rte. 67 or 68 to
Erzerdm ; by Rte. 79 or 82 to Tabriz ;
by Rte. 110 to Tehrftn (see i).
Routes through Turkey.
1 l (vii.> From Constantinople to Kr-
zerfim as in (vi.); by Rte. 87 or by
Rtes. 88 and 101 to Mosul ; by Rte.
103, 104, or 105 to Baghdad; by ltto.
109 to Basra ; by steamer to Bombay.
(viii.) From Constantinople by Rte.
1 to Barosdn ; by Rte. 14 to 8ivaa ; by
Rtes. 93 and 101 to Dlarbekr and
Mosul (see vii.), or by Rtes. 56, 64,
and G6 to Alcxandretta (seo x.).
(ix.) From Constantinople by Rte.
22 to Angora ; by Rte. 21 to Kaisari-
ych; by Rtes. 56, 64, and 66 to
Alexandretta (see x.>
(x.) By Rail and steamer, rid Con-
stantinople or Marseilles, to Alexan-
dretta; by Rte. 101, or Rtes. 100 and
101 to Mosul (see vii.); or by Rte.
101 to Aleppo, and Rte. 102 to Bagh^
dad (see vii.).
These routes can bo varied so ns to
inclu to any special points of interest.
Digitized by
Google
344
Introduction. — The Turkish Islands.
SECTION IV.
THE TURKISH ISLANDS.
1. Tenedos.— 2. Lemnos . — 3. hnbros. — 4. Samothrace . — 6. Thasos. — 6. Lesbos.— 1. l*syra . —
8. Chios.— 9. Icaria.— 10. Samos.— n. Catmos.—Vl. Iatos.—\ 2. Calymna. — 14. Astypalata.
— 16. COs. — 16. Nityros. — 17. Tdos. — 18. Symt. — 19. Chalet. — 20. Jthudos. — 21. Carpalhos . —
22. Catos . — 23. Meffiste.
The Turkish islands in the Aegean, with the exception of Samos and Thasos,
form the Vilayet of the Archipelago, which is governed by a Vali, who resides at
Rhodes. For administrative purposes, the viliyet is divided into four Sanjaks —
Lemnos, Mitylenc, Chios, and Rhodes — which are governed by mutessarifs, who
reside at the chief towns. The Sanjaks are again subdivided into Kazas, and
Rahiehs, some of which consistof a single island, or of a group of small islands.
Samoa is a tributary principality, and Thasos belongs to the Khedivial family of
Egypt. The two large islauds, Crete and Cyprus, are described in the llandlH'olc
to the Mediterranean.
The jwpulution of the Archipelago Vildyet is estiiuuted to be 825,800, of whom
288,700 are Greeks ; that of Samos, 48,500 all Greeks ; and that of Thasos, 12,100,
nearly all Greeks. In some of the islands the Greeks have preserved many of
their ancient manners and customs ; and have retained, in their dialects, classical
words not used elsewhere.
Most of the islands, when seen from the sea, appear to be lofty masses of barren
rock rising abruptly out of the water ; but Mitylene with its dark olive groves,
Chios with its orange groves, Cos with its vineyards, and Rhodes, with its fertile
plains and valleys, are exceptions to the general sterility. Even * the smaller
islands, which appear to the eye so arid, often contain inland valleys in which the
vine, the olive-tree, and the cotton plant tlourish luxuriantly.
In the larger islands the traveller can profitably spend 8 or 4 days ; the smaller,
such as Patmos, Nisyros, and Telos, can be seen in a day. Austrian and French
steamers call at Tenedos, Mitylene, Chios, and Rhodes. The steamers of local
Greek lines, running from Smyrna, touch at all the islands except Samothrace,
Thasos, Psyra, Icaria, Patmos, Astypalaea, Telos, Carpal hos, and Casos. These
islands must be reached by native boats (haikt), which can generally be hired for
from 1/. to 2/. for a single journey. The hire varies in every island according to
competition, and is also a matter for bargain. Greek sailors are the boat. They
are very cautious, and at the approach of anything like a storm put in to the
nearest harbour, where they arc liable to detain Hie traveller for days. It is
always well, therefore, to have a store of provisions, and to ree that the water
barrel is full before starting.
In spring the N. Aegean is stormy. In early spring the winds change suddenly,
and do not blow from the same quarter the whole day. In winter and summer
they blow regularly. The wildness of the storms is associated with the student's
earliest acouaintance with Greek history. The insecurity of the ports, due to
centuries of neglect, is often a serious inconvenience to travellers, as it involves
considerable uncertainty as to the possibility of their reaching their destination.
Accommotlution can be obtained in schoolhouses, konaks, Ac., and in some
P laces there is a Xenodocheion — a shabby hostelry, generally with clean beds.
or outfit, a camp bed, a few cooking utensils, and other simple appliances should
be taken. /» »nl in some of the smaller islands is scarce, especially during Greek
Digitized by Tooele
Introduction . — The Turkish Islands. 345
Lent. Money : notes of the Bank of France are the beet medium of exchange.
They can be negotiated at full value at the Agencies of the steamers.
Books, Ac. — Newton, 'Travels and Discoveries in the Levant'; Torer, 'Islands
of the Aegean ' ; Conze, ' Keise auf der Insel Lesbos ’ ; Ross, ' Reisen auf den
Griechischen Inseln ' ; Testevnide, ' I/e Tour du Monde,' 1878, p. 887 ; Rottiers,
' Description des monuments de Rhodes ’ ; Biliotti and Cottrel, ' L’Hcde Rhodes ' ;
Torr, 'Rhodes in Ancient Times.' Map: Admiralty Charts ; Kiepcrt, 'Western
Asia Minor.'
Digitized by ^.ooQle
846
Tenedo8 — Lemnos .
ROUTES.
1. TENEDOS (TENEDO).
Tenedos has retained its name ever
since the time of Homer. Previously
it had been called Leucophrys, Calyd-
na, Phoenico, and Lvrnessus; the
mythical derivation of its usual name
is from Tones, the son of Cycnus.
Its circumference is little more than
10 m. but, from its proximity to the
mouth of the Hellespont (about 12 m.
distant) it has been an important fleet
station from the earliest times. Its
distance from the coast of the Troad
is 5 in. ; and in the story of the Trojan
war it uppoara us tlio station to which
the Greeks withdrew their fleet, in
order to induce the Trojans to think
that thoy had departed.
Tenedos had an Aeolian city of the
same name, with two harbours, which
were used by Xerxes as a naval sta-
tion in the Persian war. The island
afterwards became a tributary ally of
Athens, and adhered to her during
the whole of the Peloponnesian war,
and down to the peace of Antal-
cidas, by which it was surrendered to
the Persians. At the Macedonian
conquest Tenedos regained its liberty.
In the war against Philip III. the
Romans used the island as a naval
station, and in the Mithridatio war
Lucullus gained a victory off its
shores. About this time its inhabi-
tants placed themselves under the
protection of Alexandria Troas. In
1377 it was cedod by John V. Palao-
ologus to tlio Venetians, from whom
it was taken, ctrc. 1454, by Muham-
mad II.
The island is a kaza of Lemnos, and
it has a Dopulation of about 4200 (one-
third Moslem). Though rugged, it
is fertile and well cultivated ; and it
produces a light wine, which is largely
exported to Mediterranean ports.
The town on the N.K. sido of the
island is surrounded by a strong wall
with towers, and occupies the lower
slopes of a hill orowned by a mediaeval
fortress. It has a port with tolerably
good anchorage, but much exposed to
N. winds, which make landing diffi-
cult and Bometimes impossible. In
former ages it was a depot for produce
destined for Constantinople ; and
Justinian erected granaries, of which
there are some remains, to receive the
corn from Alexandria. In the Ghapd
of 8. Constantine arc some sculptured
clocks from a palace built by John V.
Pulaeologus.
Close to the mouth of the Darda-
nelles is u cluster of small islets, the
Lag ussae of the ancients, and now
known to English sailors as tho
Rabbit Islands. The largest of these
is 4 m. in length, and possesses an
excellent spring of water.
2. LEMNOS (LIMNI).
Lemnos (Ital. Stalimene t Turk.
Ilmdi ) — a sanjak of Rhodes— is
nearly midway between Mt. Athos
and the Hellespont, and about 12 m.
S. W. of Imbros. The area is less than
that of the Isle of Wight, yet the
long delicate outlino of Lemnos jus-
tifies the expression tenuis applied to
it by a Roman poet The population
has been estimated as high as 27,000 ;
but it is probably about 1 1,000 Greeks
and 1000 Moslems. The current of
the Hellespont sets with great force
in tho direction of Lemnos and
Imbros, with a N. wind towards tho
former, and with a S. wiud towards
the latter.
Lemnos and Imbros, being situated
near the mouth of the Hellespont,
were brought into dose connection
Digitized by L^ooQle
Lemnos, 347
with the commercial and political life
of Greece ; and, together with Scyros,
“ formed stepping stones in the line
of communication which led from
Athens to her posscsriotis in the
Thracian Chersonese, and secured to
her the trado of the Black Boa.”
Tho most ancient inhabitants of
Lemnos, according to Homer, were
the Thracian Sinties; a name, how-
ever, which probably only signifies
robbers (trlroficu). When the Ar-
gonauts landed at Lemnos they are
said to have found it inhabited only
by women who bad murdered their
husbands. Some of the Argonauts
settled there, and became, t>y the
Lemnian women, the fathers of the
Minyae, the later inhabitants of the
island. The Minyae are said to have
boon driven out by the Pelasgians,
who had been themselves expelled
from Attioa. These Pelasgians are
further said to have carried away
from Attica some Athenian Women;
but as the children of these Women
despised their half-brothers, bom of
Polosgian women, the Pelasgians mur-
derod both them and* their children.
In consequenoe of these repeated
horrors, Lemnian Deeds became a pro-
verb in Greece for all atrocious acts.
Lemnos was afterwards conquered by
one of the generals of Darius; but
Miltiades delivered it from the Per-
sians, and made it subject to Athens,
in whose power it remained for a long
period. During tho Middle Ages it
was known os Stalimene (tit rbr
ATjftvor) ; and after the 4th Crusade
it formed part of the principality of
the Genoese Gattilusi princes of Mity-
lene (p. 852). In 1462 it passed to
the Venetians, who in 1478 oeded it
by treaty to Muhammad II. Lemnos,
according to Pliny (H. N. xxxvi. 13),
had a famous labyrinth, supported by
140 oolumns ; but no traces of it have
yot been discovered.
Lemnos is of irregular shape, being
almost divided into two parts by the
bays of Hudros, Port 8. Antony, and
Pt&rnla, Port Paradise, which pene-
trate far into the land from the 8.
and N. seas. The former, which is
the deeper inlet, is almost land-looked,
and has good anchorage for large
ships. The general appearanoe of
the island is far from picturesque ; the
mountains ore grey and shapeless;
the streams ore small ; and thoro aro
no trees except a fow fig and almond
trees. In the centre of the island is a
large undulating plain, and there are
several villages and farms, of which
some belong to the monks of Mt.
Athos. The people are peaceable,
orderly, and prosperous ; many of
them go to Egypt and England where
they accumulate fortunes, but, as a
rule, they look upon Lemnos as their
home, build houses there, and marry
Lemnian wives. Lemnos is one of
the places of banishment for political
offenders in Turkey. The island pro-
duces corn, tobacco, wine, vegetables,
almonds, nuts,* and good cheese.
Amongst the greatest curiosities aro
the M horned cocks ” ; the horns are
formed by the cruel process of re-
moving the spurs fVom the legs, and
planting them in the bead.
Tho chiof town Kastro, Pop. 8000,
the anct. Myrina, and probably
Homer's “ well-built town of Lemnos/'
occupies a striking position on the W.
side of the island. It is surrounded
by a wall of Genoese construction, but
near the entrance sate there is a
splendid piece of cyclopean masonry.
In a castle on the highest point are a
Byzantine inscription, a marble sarco-
phagus, Ac. The ancient belief that
the shadow of Mt Athos reached as
far as Myrina appears to have arisen
from the fact that at one period of the
year the sun sets directly behind that
mountain. The warm baths, Thsrma
Loutra, 1} hrs. from Kastro, are
much resorted to in summer for rheu-
matism and skin diseases. They are
used for bathing and drinking ; temp.
100° F.
The low bluff of CapePlaka on the
N.W. of the island is probably tbs
Hermaean promontory mentioned by
Aeschylus in his description of the
chain of fire-beacons by whioh Aga-
memnon announced the taking of
Troy to Clytaemnestra at Argos.
Digitized by L^ooQle
348 Imbros— Samothrace.
■ At Kochino, on the bay of Purnia, the anoient Neae. A few families
are the remains of the castle, Choi reside on it at present.
eooondylat , whioh was successfully
defended against a Turkish force hy
Constantine Palaeologus. The famous 3. IMBROS (IMBRO).
Le mni an red earth, called Lemnian-
geal (Aijuvla <r<ppayls\ from the'stamp Imbros (Imr&z), a kata of Jjetnnos,
impressed upon it, and known in W. is situuted near the Thracian Cher-
Europe as terra sigiUata, or lempnia sonese, about 18 m. 8.E. of Samothrnoe,
frigdoe , was found near Kochino. It and 12 m. N.E. of Lemnos. It is
was regarded as an antidote to poison about 25 m. in circumference, and is
and as a cure for the bites of serpents ; hilly and rugged. The hills are well
and in the 16th cent was prescribed wooded, ana attain on altitude of
for the plague, dysentery, Ac. At 1845 ft The valleys are fertile and
present small bowls are made from it, well watered, and there is oue stream
which are believed to neutralise the of some size, the anct. Ilissus . There
effect of poison put into them. Its are several villages, and on the N.
collection onco a year, on the 6th sido of the island is Kaslro , anct
August, was preceded by the sacrifice Imbros. In the walls and pavements
of a lamb, and religious ceremonies, of the churches and private dwellings
but these have lately been discon- are inscription! bearing the names of
tinuod, and in a fow years the earth Athenian citizens, and of the dome of
and the place from which it is taken Attica to which they belonged. The
will probably bo forgotten. Dr. coins of Imbros l>ear the familiar
Daubeny, who gives an analysis of the Athenian emblems — the head of Pallas
earth (On Volcanos , p. 373)* considers and the owl. The population, about
it to bo nothing moro thun a dcoom- 4000, is nearly all Greek,
posed condition of trachyte. Valaco- Imbros, like Sumothraoe, was of old
poli , the site of Hephaestia , is 2 m. N. a chief scat of tho worship of the
of Kochino and near the shore ; the Oabiri. Its history contains no events
ruins are insignificant. Kastro to of importance. When taken by
Aziki, on the plain, 4 lira. ; thence to Muhammad II. it belonged to the
Kochino , 1} hrs. Gattilusi princes of Mitylene. Undor
the Turks it has been a common place
Lemnos enjoyed a reputation in of exile for pashas in disgrace, and to
antiquity as a centre of volcanic it the Grand Vizier Baltaji Mehemet,
action. One of its early names was who made terms with Peter and
“ Acthaleia, 1 ’ or the Fire-island. It Catherine on the banks of the Pruth
was closely connocted with the wor- (1711), was exiled,
ship of the fire-god, Hephaestus ; on There is excellent woodcock shoot-
it ho was reputed to have fallen when ing in season, and the island is then a
oast down from heaven by Zeus, and favourite resort of sportsmen,
it became his favourite place of abode
on earth. At the present day there is
no extinct volcano in the island and 4. SAMOTHRACE (SAMOTH-
no evidence of volcanic agency. It is RAKI).
supposed that the volcano which
existed in antiquity, Mount Mosychlos , Samotbrace ( Semadrek ), the M Thra-
has been submerged in the sea, and cian Samos/’ is 20 m. from Dedo-ngacli,
that traces of it exist in the Mythonaes the terminus of tho railway on the
shoal off the E. coast of the island Thracian coast, of which it is a nahieh.
(Tozer, Islands of tlte Aegean ). It is about 32 m. in circumferenco,
and is rugged and mountainous. Its
A few miles S.S.W. of Isemnos is population is about 5000, nearly all
tho small, but imposing - looking, Greek. Tho islaud was the chief seat
island of ki Strati, ITugtm t Kustrutim, of tho worship of the Cabiri, and was
Digitized by L^ooQle
Thruo *.
349
celebrated for it* religion* mysteries.
Their origin ilates from tho timo of
the Pelasgians, who are said to havo
been the original inhabitants of tho
island; aud they enjoyed groat cele-
brity down to a very Into period.
Both Philip of Mncedon an rf his wifo
Olympias were initiated in thorn.
The Uabiri who were known to tho
Greeks as “the Great Gods,*’ were
apparently pre-Hollenic divinities, and
they probably derived their name
from tho Semitic Kebir , “great.”
In tho oentre of the island rises a
lofty mountain called Snos, or Saoco;
whence Homer (II. xiii. 13) repre-
sents Poseidon to havo surveyed the
e arn! city of Troy and the Greek
This peak, now called Phen-
gdri , is 5248 ft. high, and can be seen
from tho plains of Troy, towering
above Imbros. The ascent can be
made in about 5 hrs. from Chora, tho
only inhabited place on the island.
The history of tho island is of little
importance. The Samothracians fought
on the side of Xerxes at the battle
of Snlaniis ; and at this time they
|M»<*4>!<sod a few places on the Thracian
mainland. Persons fled thither after
his defeat by tho Homans at fho battle
of Pydna (n.c. 1G8). On the Latin
conquest of Constantinople (1204), tho
island was assigned to tho family of
Handolo; but it was reconquered by
tho Emperor John Ducas, and in tho
1 (tli century passed into tho hands of
tho Gattitusi. Princes of Mitylcnc,
whoso arms may still be seem on an
old castle. In 1457, on its first capture
by the Turks, the island was almost
depopulated, and during the suppres-
sion of an insurrection in 1821, nil
males who did not escape to tho
mountains or by sea were killed.
Samothrace , from its position, bears
the brunt of the storms of tho Black
and Aegean Seas. It is peculiarly
inaccessible, for, although there are
several good anchorages, there is no
good harbour; and, os Pliny justly
remarks, it is “ the most harbourless
of all the Greek islands.” The safest
landing placo is closo to the promon*
tory of Acrotcri on the W. coast, and
this iB probably the ancient harbour
of Demelrium. Near tho roadstead,
and several hundred feet above tho
sco, is the village of Chora, and an
hour north of it ore tho ruins of the
ancient city, now Palaeopoli ’, and of
tho Sanctuary of the Cahirt, Tin*
ruins consist of temples and other
edifices of Ptolemaic and later date ;
the ancient walls ; and a tunnel
which affords one of the very rare
instances of tho use of the arch in
Hellenic architecture. Excavations
were carried out in 1873 and 1875,
under the auspices of tho Austrian
Government, by Prof. Oonzo and hfs
colleagues. MM. Hauser, Niemann,
and Bonndorf. Tho result of their
researches was published in Archaeo -
logische Untersitchungen auf 6amo-
thrahe , of which there is a copy at
Chora. On the N. coast, 3 hrs. from
Chora, are some hot springs, the water of
which is highly charged with sulphur.
They are much frequented by peoplo
from the mainland and the neighbour-
ing islands, and perhaps mark the
site of the ancient Zerjjnthus. Tho
majority of the inhabitants are of
recent introd action ; but tho shepherds
probably dnto back to a very consider-
able antiquity, and their language
retains some Hellenic words that have
been lost elsewhere. The island is
sometimes visited by brigands from
the mainland, who make ruids on the
village, and the interior should not be
visited without precaution. The ibex
is found in tho mountains on tho E.
5. THASOS (THASO).
Thaws, tho most northerly of tho
Aegean islands, is situated off tho
coast of Thrace and tho promontory
of Mount Athoe, from which it forms
a striking object It is about 40 m.
in circumference. At a very early
period it was taken possession of by
the Phoenicians, on account of its
valuable gold mines. It was after-
wards colonised by the Parians, b.o.
708, and among tho colonists was tho
poet Archilochus. Besides tho gold
mince in Thasos itself, the Thasians
possessed others still more valuable, at
Digitized by L^ooQle
/ 350 Tha808.
Bcapto Hyle, on the neighbouring
coast of Thnuse. The mines in the
island itself had been extensively
worked by the Phoenicians, but even
in the time of Herodotus they were
still productive. Tho clear surplus
rovonuo of tho Thasians before tho
Persian conquest was 200, and some-
times 300 talents a year (about
46,000h or 66,0001.). At this period
tho Thasians possessed a considerable
territory on the coast of Thrace, and
were very wealthy and powerful.
They were subdued by the Persians
under Mardonius, and subsequently
by Athens. They revolted from
Athens in n.o. 465, and were subdued
by Cirnon after a siege of three years ;
when they were obliged to surrender
to the Athenians all their possessions
in Thrace, to destroy their fortifica-
tions, to give up their ships, and to
pay a large tribute for the future.
In the 8th year of the Peloponnesian
war, the Athenian squadron at Thasos
was commanded by Thucydides. Tho
Thasians again revolted from Athens
in 411, but tho island was again re-
duced by Tbrasybulus in 407. On
tho Latin conquest of Constantinople,
it was given with Samothraoe to tho
Dandolo family. It was afterwards
occupied by the Byzantines and by
the Gattilusi princes of Mitylene, from
whom it was taken by the Turks in
1462. The island was given by Sultan
Mahmfid II. to Muhammad Ali Pasha,
tho Viceroy of Egypt, who was a
native of Cavalla on the opposite
coast, and it is now an entail in his
family. It is governed by a Mudir
sent from Cairo ; and he and his fol-
lowers are the only Moslems on tho
island. The Greeks, about 8000,
who pay an olive tithe, but no capita-
tion tax, enjoy a considerable amount
of independence.
Thasos, with its shnrply-outlinod
ridges, its full dear streams, its pino
forests, its exquisite woodlands, uud
its groy, limestone dills, is one of tho
most beautiful islands in the Aegean.
The highest point, Hivtario , is 3428 ft
The appearance of the lofty precipi-
tous riages rising above, and in tne
midst of the pine forests, especially
when seen from the sea, justifies the
description of the island by Archi-
lochus, “an ass's backbone covered
with wild wood." Thasos was cele-
brated for its gold mines, its opals, its
marblo, and its wino (Virg. Gan-g. ii.
01), and, from its general fertility, it
was called *Akt1) At i/d>rpo». It now
exports marble, timber (fir), oil, and
honey. The position of the gold
mines is an unsolved mystery. There
are ten villages, each of which has
its own peculiar coins, which do not
pass current outside the area of tho
village; the coins are old Turkish
brass pieces, with the village stamp
on them.
lluins of the onct town of Thasos
are to be seen at Limina , or PaUuo-
cantro , the chief town, on the N.
coast. They consist of a mole and a
mediaeval town, oora posed of frag-
ments of Hellenic masonry, on tho
sea faoo; and, on the high ground
behiud, of the theatre mentioned by
Hippocrates, a ternplo, fragments of
the ancient wall amt of the acropolis,
whence there is a fine viow. Close to
the ucro|>olis is a *} trine of Pan, in
which tho god is represented with
horns on his head, in a sitting posture
and playing tho syrinx. In the plain
is a necropolis , “ which from its sizo
and the splendour of its monuments
must have been almost unrivalled in
antiquity." Most of the tombs havo
been destroyed in the present oentury.
At Alke, on tho S. coast, aro tho quar-
ries from which tho Thasian marble,
so fashionable during the Roman
period, was obtained. The quarries
are on a tongue of land which juts
out into the sea, parallel to the ooast,
so os to form a small harbour iu
which the ships loaded. There ore
many ruins, and a temple, with votive
tablets put up by tho miners and
mariners, at tho edge of the sea. A
largo area cut down to tho boa luvol,
from which tho marble was removed
in largo blocks, present* a curious
appearance. Excavations made by
Mr. Theodore Bent brought to light
many inscriptions which have been
published in Journal of Hellenic
Studies, vol. viii.
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Lesbos.
351
0. LESBOS (MITYLENE.)
Lesbos, MidUlliL, the “ noble and
pleasant island *' of Tacitus, had, in
early times, various names, of which
the chief were Issa, Pelasgia, and
Macaria. In the Middle Ages it was
called Mitylene, from its capital, a
name which it still bears. The
earliest reputed inhabitants were
Pelasgians; the next, an Ionian
colony, said to have settled here two
generations before the Trojan war;
lastly, at the time of the great Aeolic
migration tho island was colonised
by Aeolians, who founded in it a
Ilexapolis, consisting of the six cities,
Mitylene, Methymna, Eresus, Pyrrha,
Antissa, and Arisbe, afterwards re-
duced to five through the destruction
of Arisbe by the Methymnaeans. The
Aeolians of Lesbos afterwards founded
numerous settlements along the ooast
of the Troad, and in the region of
Mount Ida. The island is most im-
portant in the early history of Greece,
as the native land of the Aeolian
school of lyrio poetry, and it has been
happily called “ the pearl of the
Aeolian rooo ” It was the birthplace
of the musician and poet Terpander,
of the lyrio poets Alcaeus, Sappho,
and others, and of the dithyrambio
poet Airon. The sage and statesman
Pittaous, the historians HeUanicus
and Theophanes, and the philoso-
phers Theophrastus and Phanias,
were also Lesbians. The women
were noted for their beauty and their
profligacy.
The chief facts in the political
history of Lesbos are connected with
its principal city, Mitylene, which
stood on the E. side, upon a promon-
tory which was once an island, and
both sides of whioh formed excellent
harbours. Important hints are fur-
nished by the fragments of the poetry
of Alcaeus, whence it seems, that, after
the rule and overthrow of a series of
tyrants, the island was nearly ruined
by the savage conflict of internal
f notions, until Pittacus was appointed
to a sort of dictatorship. Meanwhile
the Lesbians had grown to great
importance as a naval power ; and at
the beginning of the 7th oenty. b.o.
they waged war with the Athenians
for the possession of 8igaeum at the
mouth of the Hellespont, whioh was
finally assigned to the latter by tho
award of Periander, tyrant of Gorintb.
Lesbos submitted to the Persians after
the conquest of Ionia and Aeolis, but
joined actively in the Ionian revolt,
after the failure of which it again
became subject to Persia, and took
part in the expedition of Xerxes
against Greece. After the Persian
war it became one of the most im-
portant members of the Athenian
confederacy, retaining, unlike tho
other allies except Chios, its inde-
pendence till the 4th year of the
Peloponnesian war, b.o. 428, when all
Lesbos revolted, with the exception of
the town of Methymna. The progress
and suppression of this revolt forms
one of the most interesting episodes
in the history of the Peloponnesian
war. The result broke the power of
the Lesbians. After various vicissi-
tudes Lesbos fell under the power of
Mithridates. In the Mithridatio war
Mitylene held out to the last, and, at
the capture of tho city, Julius OocW
distinguished himself and earned n
civio crown. From this timo the
island formed part of tho lioman
province of Asia, with Mityleno as
its chief town. Under Constantine it
was included in the Provineia In -
saZaram, and in later times it formed
part of the Them e of the Aeaean Sea.
In 802 the Empress Irene died there
in exile ; and as the Byzantine empire
declined the island was exposed to
the attacks of pirates and adventurers
from all quarters. In 1091 it was
taken by the Seljflk chief, Chakas,
but was soon recaptured by Alexius
Comnenas. In 1123 it was ravaged
by the Venetians, who afterwards
occupied part of the island, but were
driven out in 1173. On the establish-
ment of the Latin Empire, 1204,
Lesbos fell to the French, who wore
in turn expelled in 1224 by John III.
Ducas. In 1354 John V. Palaeologn*
gave the island, as a dowry, with his
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352
Lesbos.
bister, to Francesco GattilusiB, a
merchant noble of Genoa ; and it re-
mained in the Guttilusi family until
its capture in 1462 hy Muhammad II.
During the war of the Greek revolu-
tion (1821-27) it suffered severely and
is said to have lost one-sixth of its
population. On March 7 th, 1867, it
was visited by a severe earthquake,
which almost entirely destroyed
Kastro and injured every town in tho
island. It is now a Sanjah of tho
Archipelago Vil&yct.
Mitylene is about midway between
Smyrna and the Dardanelles, and,
l>cing on tho line of all steamers, is
in coustant communication with other
parta of the empire. The island is
about 38 m. in length by about 20 m.
in breadth, and it is separated from
the mainland by a strait from 7 to
10 m. wide. It is rugged and moun-
tainous, but there is much fertile
land. The highest point is Mt.
Olympus in tho 8., 8080 ft ; the next
highest are Ordymnus in the W.,
1780 ft., aud Lopcthymnus in the N.,
2750 ft. Most of the island is lime-
stone, but in the north schists pre-
dominate, and there are large areas
of basalt, apparently from two extinct
volcanoes, one near PolikhnUo * , the
other between Mandamadoe and
Kapi. The coast line of the island is
broken by two remarkable gulfs, Porto
Toro at the S.E. angle and Porto
Kallone on the 8. side. Porto Iero
(pronounced Yero\ or P. Olivieri , is
a noble basin, 6 m. by 4 m., with a
narrow, deep-water entrance about
4 m. long. The harbour is completely
land-locked — shut in by hills, on which
the terraced olive-groves that give
the name “ Olivieri” climb upward
to the pines that clothe the higher
summits. Somewhere on the coast of
the gulf was Hiera , a town that in
Pliny's time had already disappeared.
Porto Kallone, auct. Euriput Pyrr-
haeus , is lurger than P. Iero, 10 m. by
6 m., has a broader entrance, and
affords better anchorage for ships.
On its E. shore was Purr ha.
Mitylene, called by Turks tho
41 garden of the Osmanli Empire,"
produces wine, large quantities of oil,
tigs, lemons, oruiiges, and various
fruits for export. There is little
arable land, and the wheat and barley
grown is insufficient for Ihe supply of
the island. Timber and pitch aro
derived from the pine forest with
whioli tho mountains are covered.
There are some good roads, but most of
the transport is by mules, of which
there are said to be over 20,000. Thei o
are several mineral springs and re-
mains of ancient baths ; the waters are
reported to be good for rlioumatism,
cutaneous diseases, and abdominal
complaints. There are also antimony
mines, good marble quarries, and a
little coal. Before the silk-worm
disease there was a large export of
cocoons. The sea teems with fish;
dorey, red and grey mullet, sardines,
lobsters, and octopi are very plentiful.
The situation or Mitylene is particu-
larly favourable for commercial enter-
prise, as it commands an extensivo
line of coast, for which its chiof town,
Kastro, is becoming a distributing
centre.
The population is estimated at
120,200, or whom 105,000 are Greeks.
About three-fourths of the people are
landowners, and in few places can
the advantages and disadvantages of
peasant proprietorship be better
studied. The sobering effect is ap-
parent in the absolute security to life
aud property that prevails ; the evils
aro due to the extreme subdivision of
the land. There aro said to be
3,000,000 properties, some consisting
of only 8 or 4 olive trees. In some
cases men own 400-500 scattered
parcels, and this greatly increases the
cost of transporting the produce to
the ports. It would be almost im-
possible for the villagers to live if the
men, who are good masons, carpenters,
and joiners, had not an outlet on the
mainland where they earn money in
summer sufficient for their support in
winter. The women do most of the
agricultural work; and the dry re-
taining walls of the olive groves are
built by Gheg Albanians, who aro
highly skilled in that sort of work.
There are many interesting customs,
some probably of anoient date, which
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363
Lcsboe.
Fell repay study. The Greeks are
making great progress in education ;
every Tillage nas its school, and at
Kastro there is a college in which
students receive an education that
enables them to enter the Lyoeum at
Athens. There are two Archbishops,
Mitylene and Kallone, and about 100
churches in the island. The country
houses are generally built of stone,
with square towers, which are entered
by steps on the ontside, and rise
prominently above the trees of the
gardens. These towers are inhabited
by the proprietors, while the ground
floors ore allotted to the cattle and
poultry, or serve as storehouses for
corn.
The climate is healthy and tempe-
rate, and there is a good supply of
pure, limpid water. The summer heat
on the coast is always tempered by
the sea breeze, and on the mil-sides
the climate is delightful. Spring is
short, but the autumn fine weather
lasts from 1st Sept, to 80th Nov.
As a rule the winters are mild, but
sometimes the N.E. winds bring
snow, and occasionally there is a
hard frost. In 1850 the thermo-
meter fell to 18° P.
Kastro, anct Mitylene, the chief
town of the island and residence of
the Mutesearif, is on the E. side of the
island, protected from the force of the
open sea, and well situated for com-
munication with the mainland. The
town is backed by a screen of hills
covered with vegetation. The harbour
is good for boats and small craft, but
the anchorage outside is exposed,
and in bad weather the mail steamers
do not call. Passengers land in boats,
sometimes with difficulty, and the
boatmen are occasionally troublesome.
There are 8 locandas near the landing-
plaoe.
The town contains many fragments
of oolumns, soulpturea, do., but no
considerable Hellenic ruin. Some
remains of the theatre and of the
Temple of Apollo may still be seen in
the gardens surrounding the town.
The site of the Aoropolis is oooupied
by apioturesque Genoese castle, which
{Turkey.']
still serves as a Turkish fort, but one
of no importance. In its walls are
some interesting Inscriptions, and
within the enclosure are the remains
of a Byzantine church . The Greek
College and the Cathedral Church of
8. Athanasius deserve a visit. After
the earthquake of 1867 muoh of the
town was rebuilt. Some distance N.
of the town is an English factory for
extracting oil from the refuse left
after the olives have been squeezed by
hydraulic pressure. A delightful
half-day excursion can be made from
Kastro to the hot springs at Lujia* on
the E. shore of P. Olivieri, returning
by Mario, where there are some fine
remains of the aqueduct that supplied
Mitylene with water. Kastro is the
residence of a British Vice-Consul
A tour of the lovely and interesting,
but little visited, island can be made
in 7 to 10 days. Fair sleeping quarters
can be obtained in the houses of the
head men of the villages, whiob are
generally dean and comfortable. On
leaving Kastro, cross the hills by a
r d road through olive groves to
Olivieri, and then follow the shore,
through beautiful scenery, to Lujia
(hot springs), and to the head of the
iolet There the road turns 8. and
ascends to
Ayasos ( Hagiasoe , 5 hrs.), a large
village at the foot of Mt. Olympus.
Here there are a Byzantine church
and a Genoese castle. The ascent of
Olympus takes about 1 1 hrs. ; on the
summit is the Obapel of Einah, whence
the modern name ML 8. Elias. The
view from this point is very fine, in-
cluding Mt. Ida, and, in clear weather,
Mt Athos. From Ayasos the traveller
can proceed in 6 hrs. by Scopelos to
Potamos (Plomari) ; then take boat to
the soala of Pol i kh n itos in the Gulf of
Kallone, a sail of 5 hrs. ; and after-
wards follow the shore for 4 hrs. to
Pyrrhaj or he can travd direct to
Pira ChiflWc , dose to the Acropolis
of Pyrrha, about 5 hrs. N. W. of Ayasos.
There are a few remains of Hellenic
masonry, but great part of the town
had been swallowed up by the sea in
Strabo’s time.
2 A
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864
Psyra.
From Pira OhifUik it is 8 hrs. to Molivo, Methymna, the seat of a
Akhyron but by making a short kaimakam, picturesquely situated on
detour, Palaeo-oaetro, anot Aruba, an isolated bill which is separated
can be visited. Parakila , near the from the mountainous district of the
W. shore of the Gulf of Kallone, island by a rich plain full of gardens,
where there are remains of Aegarot, The top of the hill is occupied by a
and the platform of a temple, is 2 hrs. Genoese castle, which stands upon the
further. Thence it is 2 hrs. to Maka- site of the ancient acropolis, but in
ra, near the mouth of the gulf^ where which there are no ancient fragments,
there are a few fine fragments within From this point there is a fine view of
an enclosure of great antiquity. About Assos on the opposite coast. To tbe £.
9 hr. from Makara, on the hill of of the town are some Byzantine ruins;
Kondicha, are the remains of a torn plo and here and on the northern slope
of unknown origin ; and thence it is there is much broken pottery, indicat -
9 hrs. to Breto, a village on the hill- ing the site of the ancient town,
side, whence the ruins of Eresus on the There is a small port. Mdkymna web
coast, about 1} m. distant, can be noted during tho Roman period for
visited. There are remains of 8 the excellent wine produced in its
temples and of an acropolis. About neighbourhood ; and it was, in later
2 hrs. beyond Eresus is Cave Sigri , times, honourably distinguished for
anct Sigrium, the extreme W. point its resistance to the Seljftks in tbe
of Mitylene, where there are a 11th and to the Oamanlis in the 15th
monastery and small fort From century.
Ereso it is 2 hrs. to Telonia , to the E. From Molivo take a boat to tho
of Mt. Ordymnus, and thence 1} hrs. scala of Skamnicu , as the road is
to the ruins of Antieea on a promon- rough and uninteresting, and ascend
tory, onco au island, to tho W. of tho to the villugo which lies ou tho b1o)m>
small harbour, KalotAiuiin. Antissa, of Mt. Lepethymuus. From 6kum-
tho birthplace of Terpandcr, was nias it is 2} hrs. to Mandamadoe, and
destroyed by the Bamaus for giving thence
shelter and supplies to An tenor, {he
admiral of Perseus. The ruins con- 7 hrs. to Kastro by a picturesque
sist of a mediaeval fort, built upon road along the coast which passes
Hellenic foundations. near the hot sulphur springs of Sarltja.
If the weather be fine, and the wind
About 1 hr. from the ruins is Kalo- favourable, there is no more delightful
Ichori , where the more cultivated die- sail than that from Molivo to Kastro
tricts are entered. Grossing the pla- in one of the native boats,
teau of Aeperia, where there was an
ancient oemetery, Phylia is reached
in 1} hrs., and thence there is a descent 7. PSYRA (P8ARA).
of 2 hrs. to Petra, a village on the
coast, which derives its name from a Psora, or Ipeara, a kaza of Chios, is
detached rock standing in the oentre a small rocky island with a single
of it, upon which are a small church peak, Mt. 8. Elia t, about 1660 ft
and nuunery. A fine view of the liigh. It is as a rule bare, but bere
interior of the island may be obtained and there vines, fig, and mulberry
from tho summit of a pass foimorly trees arc grown. In the S.W. part is
guarded by a castle, of which tho a sinull town of tho same nuiuo, and
walls arc partly stundiiig, about 1 hr.'s below it, to tho W., is a good rotul-
rido 8. of Petra. Tho whole extent stead sheltered by tlio islet of Anti-
of the valley adjoiniug the Gulf of paroe. To the 8. of the town is a
Kallone, thickly covered with olive- small harbour. Tho island is rarely
trees, is includ<id in tho view. From mentioned by ancient writers, aud it
Petra it is a pleasant ride of 1} hrs. contains nothing of interest; but it
along the ooast to has aoquired imperishable renown
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Chios.
366
from the indefatigable activity of its
seamen, and the illustrious deeds of
one of its sons, Constantine Canaria,
daring the Greek war of independence.
It can be reached by hath from Chios
or Mitylene.
Psam joined the revolution on the
28rd April, 1821, and its population
then numbered about 6000 souls ; but
this was afterwards more than doubled
by Christian refugees from A. Minor,
and auxiliaries from Macedonia and
Thessaly. Under the guidance of
•Constantine Canaris , and other gallant
leaders, the Psarians inflicted great
damage on the Turks, and in 1824
the 8ultan determined to crush them.
The Cnpitan-Pasha in person appeared
before their isle with nearly 200 ships
of various sizes, canring 14,000 troops :
at daybreak on July 3, 1824, the
Turkish fleet commenced a violent
cannonade against the town while,
hidden by clouds of smoke, the trans-
ports steered towards a little sandy
cove at the N.W. angle of the island,
where they disembarked the troops
unperoeived and unresisted. The
Moslem soldiers rushed for wan 1, driv-
ing before them some weak parties of
the Christians, and at 7 oolock in
the morning planted the. Osmanli
standard on the summit of the hills
overlooking the town. At that sight,
the Psarians saw that the fate of
their island was decided ; men, women,
and children rushed on board their
ships, or plunged into the waves,
where a multitude of them perished.
About 2000, however, forced their
way through the Turkish fleet and
escaped to Aegina, and elsewhere in
Greece. Six hundred Macedonians
threw themsclvos into the monastery
of 8. Nicholas, and when all hope of
resistance was lost, and the enemy
were scaling the walls on every side,
they set Are to the powder magazine,
and defenders and conquerors perished
in one fearful explosion. The sub-
sequent carnage was awful; 8600
persons were missing out of, the in-
digenous population, and the Moslems
•themselves lost 4000. • i .
8. CHI08 (KHIO).
Chios (Ital. Seta, Turk. Sakiz Adcui ,
M Mastic Island ”) is the most fertile,
the richest, and the most sorely
afflicted island in the Aegean sea. It
forms, with other islands, a sanjak of
the Archipelago VilAyet. Steamers
call regularly at Kasiro, its chief port,
where the Mutessarif resides ; and a
few days may be profitably spent in
exploring the island. Passengers land
in boats; horses and mules can be
hired; the roads are fair; travelling
is safe; the people are hospitable;
and the traveller will have no difficulty
in finding accommodation either in
private houses or monasteries.
The island ( lies N. and 8. ; its
extreme length is 82 m., and its
greatest width 18 m. Its area is
nearly 400 sq. m., and it is separated
from the shore of A. Minor by a strait
about 7 m. across, the ordinary route
of steamers running between Con-
stantinople, Syria, and Egypt Seen
from the son, its rocky and moun-
tainous surface justifies the epithet
(*xuiraAj«r<ra) in the Homerio hymn,
quoted by Thucydides (Hi. 104) ; but
when one approaches the land the
aspect changes, and though the sum-
mits of the mountains are still barren,
their lower slopes are seen to be richly
covered with vines, oranges, and al-
mond trees. The wine of Chios was
highly esteemed in antiquity; and still
enjoys some repute. It is also noted
for its figs, its silk, and especially for
its mastic, its lemons, and its oranges.
The climate is delightful.
The population is almost entirely
Greek, but there are about 1800
Roman Catholics, who are descended
from the Genoese families of the
Maona, whose escutcheons may still
be seen on some of the houses. Chian
families are at the head of what is
called Greek commerce in Constanti-
nople, Smyrna, and Syria, and also in
England. France, and India. Many
Chians belong, to families of world-
wide commercial renown. Chios is
also the principal home of the pro-
2 a 2
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356
Chios.
fessional beggars who throng the
streets of Constantinople.
Xastro, the capital, is on the E.
ooast; its harbour is elliptical in
form, bounded on the N. by the citadel,
on the W. by the town, on the 8. by
Turkish cemeteries, and on the E.
by two dilapidated breakwaters ; the
northern one commencing at the fort,
and the southern one at the ceme-
teries. It is only where these ap-
proach each other that there is any
Considerable depth of water. There
is not muoh of interest in the town.
The Genoese oitadel is picturesque in
its decay, and contains a groat mass
of houses within its bastioned walls.
The streets are mostly narrow, ill-
yontilated, and devoid of all local
character. Between the oitadel and
the town is a large open space called
the Vounakt, once covered with houses,
now used as a parade ground, and a
promenade in winter. The favourite
summer promenade is at BeUavuta , to
the S. of the port.
. It is outside of tho town that tlie
charm begins. Before the earthquake,
the suburb called Kampoi, to the 8.
of the town, was covered with orange-
groves and villas to which tho more
wealthy inhabitants retired when the
labours of the day were over. This
was a mass of ruins, but it is gradually
recovering itself. The roads here are
narrow, and the enclosure walls high,
which detracts greatly from the beauty
of the landscape. Bound it were
numerous flourishing villages, of from
60 to 300 families, the richest in the
island. From two of those, Karies
and Daphnona, the town is supplied
with water.
The N. part of the island, if less
picturesque than the Kampos, is as
rich and well-cultivated ; an excursion
may be made to Laiomi , once cele-
brated for its marble; Vrontado , a
small harbour at the foot of Mt. Epos,
on the summit of whioh there Is a
flat-topped rook with a rudely-cut
seat ana ledge that has received the
name of the School of Homer , and
according to Chandler a portion of a
seated statue of Cybele; Langada ,
with its small but deep port ; Kolokp -
Vila, snot Delphinium; Kardamyli ,
anot. Cardamyte ; and Fottsao, anot.
Bolissos , oelebrated for its pigs and
lepers.
The southern portion is muoh less
fertile, but it is this barren district
that produces the largest revenue.
The gum mastic, one of its chief souroes
of wealth, is the product of a species
of lentisk ( Pistada lentiseus ). Inci-
sions are made in the bark of the
shrubs about the 1st of August, when,
in a day or two, the mastio begins to
exude, and in the oourse of a week it
is sufficiently hardened to be removed.
It is then refined and exported for the
use of the Turkish ladies, who amuso
themselves by chewing it, deriving
from that practioe as much gratifica-
tion as their male relations enjoy by
inhaling the fumes of tobacco.
One of the principal villages in the
mastio distriot, Kalemassia, which
used to contain a oonvent of nuns,
situated on a small, pudding-shaped
hill, was completely overthrown in
1881. Othor mastio villages ( Mastioo -
khori ) are 8. Georges , Nenita , Mesta ,
and Kalamoti .
One or two Genoese towers, the
foundations of the temple of Apollo
at Phanae, traces of a Koman aque-
duct, fragments of Byzantine columns,
and a few inscriptions, are the only
objects of antiquarian interest in the
island. There are antimony mines at
Keramo, Potamia, and Levkopoda;
and several marble quarries. In the
proper season there is good partridge
shooting.
The island, before being called
Chios, a name of uncertain origin,
was known as Aethalia, Maoris (pro-
bably from its form), and Pityusa,
“ Pine Island/ from its pine forests.
Its history is that of its chief town
Chios, the modem Kastro. The island
or the town was one of the plaoes that
claimed to be the birthplace of Homer,
4 *the blind old man of 8cio’s rocky
isle.** The most distinguished natives
of Chios were Ion. the tragic poet;
Theopompus, the historian; and, in
the present century, the patriotic and
accomplished Koray. The oldest in-
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Chios:
367
habitants were Pelasgians; but, ac-
cording to Herodotus, Chios was one
of the Insular states of the Ionian con-
federation. When Cyrus conquered
Ionia (b.o. 546), the Chians were pro-
tected bj their insular position, as the
Persians then had no navy. They
joined the Ionians in their revolt,
b.o. 499, and had 100 ships in the
great sea-fight off Miletus. After the
defeat of the allies, the Persians,
landed in Chios, burnt the oities and
temples, and carried off all the most
beautiful girls (Herod, yi. 8, 82).
Later, after the battle of Mycale
(b.o. 479), the island formed an alli-
ance witn Athens, which lasted until
it was broken by the Chians (b.o. 412).
The Athenians landed at Bolissos
(Volisso), Cardamyle ( Kardamylt ), and
Phanae (Phana\ and took and de-
stroyed those places. They then
defeated the Chians at Leuoonium.
(Levkonia), occupied Delphinium (Ko~
lokythia ), and besieged Chios. The
capital was not taken, but the whole
island was cruelly laid waste. In
B.o. 857 Chios was again besieged by
the Athenians, and in b.o. 201 it was
taken by Philip. The Chians sided
with the Romans in the wars with
Antiochus the Great, and with Mith-
ridates; and were, after the latter;
declared free, and allies and socii of
the Roman people. The island was
afterwards included in the Intularum
provincia.
The later history of Chios is a repe-
tition of its earlier calamities. Its
shores were frequently ravaged by
pirates; in 1089 it was taken by
Chakas the Seljftk ; in 1092 it was re-
taken by Alexius Comnenas; in 1172
it .was occupied by Vital Michieli, the
Doge of Venice, who abandoned it in
1178; in 1204 it passed to the Vene-
tians, but was recaptured by John III*
Dnoas ; in the reign of Andronicua II.
it was ooonpied by the Genoese family
of Zaoharia, and in 1829 recovered by
Andronicus HL In 1846 it was seised
by a band of 82 Genoese exiles, who
formed a Maona, or trading company,
and introduced a republican form of
government Amongst the members of
the Mnnnn, the Justinian! family ap-
pear to have been the most powerful.
Under the Genoese the island became
rich and powerful, and its coast was*
harried by Bayesid L After the cap-
ture of Constantinople, 1458, it was
tributary to the Turks, but it was not
incorporated in the Empire until 1566.
The island was considered the pecu-
liar demesne of the Sultan's mother
(Valideh Sultan). The Chinns were
well treated ; as long as they annually
furnished a certain auantity of mastic
for the use of the imperial seraglio,
and paid the capitation tax, they were
allowed to live much as they liked;
and the villagers were permitted to
wear white turbans, and to have bells
in their churches. The island pros-,
pored, and . the capital, already a-
miniature Genoa, was further embel-r
lished with a college, libraries, and
hospital a Chians bad established the
wealthiest and most respected Greek
bouses in the Levant and in Western
Europe. Mild, gay, lively, acute and
industrious, the men succeeded alike
in commerce and in literature ; while
the women were celebrated for their
charms and grace.
When the Greek revolution broke
out the people were prosperous and
oontented, and neither sought nor
wished for a change in their political
condition. A party of Samians, how-
ever, landed in the spring of 1822, and
forced a number of Chians to join them.
Hereupon the Turkish governor shut,
himself up in the oastle of Chios,
awaiting tne arrival of suooour. The
Oapitan Pasha soon appeared with a
powerful fleet ; and an army of Mos-
lems, exasperated by the massacre of
their co-religionists — men, women, and
ohildren — by the Greeks, was let loose
upon the unfortunate island. The
inhabitants, enervated by long peace
and prosperity, offered no effectual,
resistance. The island was given up
to indiscriminate pillage and mossacro.
The Archbishop and the heads of the
clergy, with many of the principal
inhabitants, were hanged, and their
remains oast into the sea. A populous
city, 50 flourishing villages, and many
splendid convents and churches, all
reduced to ashes, attested the flerce-
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368
Iearia.
ness of Moslem revenge ; it was cal-'
oolated that within 2 months 30,000
Ohians had fallen by the sword, and
32,000 had been dragged into slavery
About 30,000 Ohians, mostly in a state
of total destitution, escaped to various
parts of Oreeoe; and in the end of
August* 1322, only 16,000 were left on
the island.
Whilst at Chios the Moslems Were
laying waste the island, the Greeks
were preparing to avenge the massacre
and slavery of their brethren. Con-
stantine Canaria, of Psara, and George
Pepines, of Hydra, with 32 bold com-
panions, volunteered their services;
and, having partaken of the holy sacra-
ment, sailed in 2 brigs fitted up as
fire-ships, and followed at some dis-
tance by an escort of 2 corvettes, a
brig, and a schooner. At midnight
they bore up with a fresh brooze, and
ran in amongst the Turkish fleet.
The Psariote brulot, commanded by
Oanaris, grappled the prow of the
Admiral’s ship, and instantly Set her
on fire ; the Greeks then slipped into
a large luunoh they had in tow, and
passed under her poop, shouting “ Vic-
tory to the Cross’’ — the ancient war-
ory of the imperial armies of Byzan-
tium. The Hydriotes fastened their
brig to another line-of-battle • ship,
ana set her on fire, but not so effect
tually, having applied the matoh too
soon ; they were then pioked up by
their comrades, and all escaped with-
out a wound. The Qapitan Pasha’s
ship, which in a few minutes became
one sheet of fire, contained 2286 per-
sons, including most of the captains
of the fleet ; not above 180 survived. ;
Numbers of Chian families returned
and rebuilt their oity and villages,
and the island had again become nob
and prosperous when it was shaken
by tho terrible earthquake of the 3rd
April, 1881. Houses, mosques, and
ohurohes crumbled to pieces in a
moment, burying thousands in their
ruins. The earth opened in many
places and engulfed others, some-
times as many as 60 or 100 at a time.
The shooks continued at intervals
until the 11th, when thore was one
almost as violent as the first; this
completed tiie destruction of : • the
capital, and caused the death' of many
more victims. * • » *; r •
* In the country the districts 8/ of
K astro suffered most Nearly all the
villages in the Kampos were destroyed ;
the great monadary of Nea-mone^
founded by Constantine Monomachusr.
and oompleted by Theodora, sister of
the Empress Zoe* was hurled over the
cliff on which it was built, burying
60 monks and a fine library of 12,000
volumes in its ruins : one monk only
escaped. 42 out of the 75 villages
whion the island contained were more
or less destroyed ; and Col. Trotter, the
delegate of the Belief Committee at
Constantinople, estimated the number
of persons kilted at over 5600. Great
efforts were made all over Europe to
send succour to the unfortunate Sur-
vivors. Chios is fast recovering from
the state of desolation to which it was
reduoed; but such a loss as that of
the church in the monastery of Nea-
mono is irreparable.
9. IO ARIA (NIOARIA)!
This island and the surrounding
sea, known of old as the Icarian.
derived their name from the legend of
Icarus, son of Daedalus, who, naving
incurred the displeasure of Minos, 1
made wings of feathers and wax for
himself and his son, so as to escape
from Crete. But Icarus mounting
too high, tho sun melted the wax of
his wings, and he fell into the sea
near tins island, Iearia was first
colonised by the Milesians, but after-
wards belonged to the Samians. Its
name rarely occurs in either ancient
or modern history. In the 14th conty.
it was annexed by the Genoese who
held Chios. J It contains nothing of
sufficient interest to detain the ordi-
nary traveller. High chains of
mountains occupy its entire extent,
and its inhabitants are considered
the rudest and most unpolished of all
the modem Greeks. Until they had
exhausted their supply of wood they
maintained themselves chiefly by tho
sale of charcoal to the neighbouring
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Samos .
859
islands and to the towns on the coast
of A. Minor, and by the exportation
of firewood. They now spend most
of the year as charcoal burners on the
mainland. Some of them are said to
be good sponge divers. The popula-
tion is about 8000. The island is
now a kaza of Chios.
There is no good harbour. The
least exposed roadstead is at Enddos ,
on the N.W. ooast—probably the an-
cient Histi ('ltrrol). The chief village,
MessariOy is near the oentre of the is-
land, and contains 200 houses. There
are some remains of antiquity near
Messaria, and in other localities —
traces, doubtless, of the ancient towns
of Oenoe and Drahanon^ and of tho
temple bf Artemis called Tauropo -
Hum.
The group of barren and rugged
islands between Icaria and Samos
were anciently called Corassiae ; and
it was from them that the marble was
obtained for building the temple at
Pergamum. They are now known as
Phumi (+o6pyoi), from the resem-
blance to owns of the numerous small
caves in their cliffs. They arc inha-
bited by a few shepherds and fisher-
meh from Samos and Patinos. Thero
is a good harbour in which Nicarioto
ships usually lie.
Nicaria may be reached by kaik
from Samos, Seals Nova, or Sighajik.
10. SAMOS (8AMO).
Samos (Susa ni Adas t), one of the
principal islands of the Aegean Sea,
is separated from the coast of Ionia
by the “Little Boghaz ” — a narrow
strait formed by the overlapping of
its B. promontory Poseidium (Cape
Oolonna ) with the W. spur of Mount
Myoale, Pr. Trogilium (Cape Santa
Maria). This strait, which is less
than a milo in width, was tho scone
of the battle of Mveale, b.o. 479,
which completed the liberation of the
Greeks. The Great Boghas , which
separates Samos from Icaria, varies in
width from 8 m. to 8 m., find is the
passage generally used by vessels
plying between Egypt, Syria, and
Constantinople. The island is formed
by a range of mountains extending
from E. to W., whence it derived its
name ; for Sdpor denotes “ a height ’* ;
and tho same root is seen in Samo-
thrace (i.o. the Thracian Samos). The
highest point. Mount Kerki, anct.
KerheUus , so conspicuous an object
from all parts of tne Sporades, ooou-
F ies the W. end, and is 4725 ft high,
ts valleys are very beautiful, and
there are some quaint monastio es-
tablishments in its recessed. The
ridge at the E. end, which terminates
in Cape Colonna, was called Ampelus.
The circumference of the island is
about 80 m. ; it is nearly 80 m. in
length, and 8 m. in mean breadth. It
was and is very fertile ; and some of
its products are indicated by its an-
cient names, Dryusa, Anthem ura,
Melaitapbyllus, and Cyparissia.
The early traditions of Samos con-
nect it first with the Oarians and
Leleges, and then with the Ionians ;
and at an early period it became a
powerful member of the Ionic con-
federacy. The Samians at this time
were highly distinguished in mari-
time enterprise* and the science of
nayigation; they were the first to
make advances in naval construction ;
and it was a Samian who first pene-
trated through the pillars of Heroules
to the ooean. They soon acquired
such porter at sea that they founded
colonies in Thrace, Cilicia, Crete,
Italy, and Sicily. After the usual
transition from an heroic monarchy,
through an aristocracy, to a demo-
cracy, tho island became subject to
the most distinguished of the so-
called tyrants. Polycrates (n.a 582),
under whom its power and splendour
reached their highest pitch, and
Samos would probably have become
the mistress of the Aegean, but for
the treacherous mnrder of Polycrntes
by a Persian satrap. (For the details
of the romantic life of Polycrates,
see Herodotus, who relates them in
his most dramatic manner.) At this
period the Samians had extensive
commercial relations with Egypt, and
they obtained from Amasfs the
privilege of a separate temple at
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360
Samoa .
Naucratis. The Samians now beoame and the . city itself, especially under
subject to the Persian empire, under the government of Polycrates, was
which they were governed by tyrants, adorned with many other splendid
with a brief interval at the time of works. In painting, the island pro-
the Ionian revolt, until the victory of duced Timanthes, and was illustrious
Mycale restored them to freedom, as the birthplaoe of Pythagoras, and
They now joined the Athenian oon- of several famous artists, philosophers,
federaoy, of which they oontinued poets, and historians,
independent members until b.o. 440, The modern history of Samos pre-
when they revolted and were reduced sents few remarkable events. It fell
to complete subjection by an Athenian under the power of the Osmanlis in
army after an obstinate resistance of the 16th century. The Samians
9 months' duration. In the Pelo- were among the first to join the
ponnesian war, Samos held firm to Greek insurrection, when they mas-
Athens till the last Transferred to sacred or drove the Turks out of the
Sparta in b.o. 405, after the battle of island, which they put in a state of
Aegospotami, it was soon restored to defence. A Senate and government
Athens by that of Cnidus in 894. were formed, and an army disciplined
Soon after it fell into the bands of the in the European fashion, which de-
Persians, but it was reooverod by feated all the efforts of the Turks to
Timotheu8 for Athens. In the Social regain the island. The Greeks of
war the Athenians successfully de- Asia found safety here, while the
funded it against all attacks, and Samians mado sovoral successful ox*
placed in it a body of 2000 oUruohi , peditiona to the continent, defeating
B.o. 852. After the death of Alex- and destroying the enemy wherever
ander, Samos seems to have owed a they met them, and returning home
nominal allegiance to the Graeco- laden with booty and stores. They
Syrian kingdom. After many viois- devastated all tno country between
oitudes of fortune, it was united by Soala Nova and Smyrna, and it has
the Romans to their provinoe of Asia only within the last ten years re-
in b.o. 84. Meantime it had greatly covered its former prosperity. The
declined, and had been wasted Dy war Samians thus preserved their liberty
and the incursions of pirates. Its during the whole period of the war,
prosperity was partially restored by and were grievously disappointed on
the residence in it of Antony and finding themselves excluded by the
Cleopatra, b.o. 82, and afterwards of allied sovereigns from the new king-
Ootavianus, who made it a free state, dom of Greece.
It was deprived of its freedom by Siuce 1882, when the island wus mado
Vespasian and sank into insignificance a principality by Sultan Mahmfid, it
as eaily as the second century, al- has to a great exteut been self-
though its departed glory is found still governed. The Porte nominates a
reoorded under the Emperor Decius, Governor, generally a Phanariote
by the inscription on its coins, Scydwr Greek, with the title M Prince of
vfklnotr *Ia tvlai. Samos," who rules with the aid of
Samos may be regarded as having a senate composed of 4 members,
of old constituted the oentre of Ionian nominated by himself out of 8
manners, luxury, art, and science, chosen by a General Assembly, wbioh
In fvery early times it had a native itself has 86 elected members. The
sohool of statuary, at the head of Porte receives a tribute, butothor-
whioh was Rhoecus, to whom tradition wise the island is independent ;
ascribed the invention of oasting in and it has its own flag — red above
metal. In the hands of the same and blue below, with a cross in the
school architecture flourished greatly ; lower part. A small “ Stationnaire,”
the Heraeum, one of the most magni- with a few men on board, in the
fioent of Greek temples, was erected harbour of Vathy, represents the
on the W. side of the city of 8amos; Turkish garrison.
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361
In antiquity Samoa was celebrated
for its extraordinary fertility ; it was
then cultivated with the utmoat care,
and tracea of terrace culture still exist
on the sides of the mountains. It is
still one of the most productive islands
in the Aegean, ana annually export s
wine, raisins, olive oil, brandy, locust
beans, and dressed skins ; and imports
cereals, tobacco, and European goods.
The sweet Samian wine with a slight
Muscat flavour is exported to Genoa,
Hamburg, and Bremen for doctoring
other wines. Its mountains furnish
quarries of marble and forests of
timber. Manganese is found near
Karlovasi, and coal may possibly bo
discovered, as there are natural wells of
petroleu m. The Samian flag is carried
by 250 vessels.
Yathy (Battf, Tk. Badi\ the capital
since 1882, is on the N. side of the
island, and possesses a safe and deep
port, from which it derives its name.
It is the residence of the Prince, and
the town in which the senators and
representatives of the people hold
their sittings. It is situated at the
extremity of the roadstead, with a
mole ana convenient quays; and is
oloan, well paved, and about to be
lighted with the eleotrio light. Khora
(x<£pa, the Torn ), the former capital, is
on the 8. side of the island, about
2 m. from the sea, on the lower slopes
of a mountain, on which the ancient
acropolis {Astypalaed) was placed. It
is a miserable town with a few good
houses, and steep, unpaved streets.
Samos , the ancient capital, stood on
the 8.E. side of the island, partly on
the shore, and partly rising on the
hills behind in the form of an amphi-
theatre. On its site, round the old
port, is the village of Tigani, and here
visitors to the ruins can obtain good
accommodation. Tigani is 2 m. from
Khora, and 2| hrs. from Vatiiy over a
ridge, whence fine views of the strait
of Myeale are obtained ; it possesses a
handsome quay and moles, and kalks
can be hired there for Patmos. In
the time of Herodotus, Samos was
reokonedone of the finest cities in the
world. Its ruins are considerable:
the walls, whioh have a circuit of
about 5 or 6 m., with square towers
at intervals, can still be traced ; and
there ore remains of the acropolis (a
fair specimen of Greek military archi-
tecture), the theatre, the anoient moles,
now restored, the temples, and the
aqueduct. The feature of greatest in-
terest is the aqueduct ana tunnel of
Eupalinus, which is out through the
mountain behind the town. Its length
and dimensions agree very nearly with
the statement of Herodotus (ill. 60)
that M The length of the outting is
seven stadia — the height and width
are each eight feet Along tho whole
course there is a second catting,
twenty oubits deep and three feet
brood, whereby water is brought,
through pipes, from an abundant
source into the city.” The entrance was
accidentally discovered in 1881, by a
priest whilst ploughing, and the whole
bos now been nearly cleared of debris.
The Heraeum , celebrated os the chief
centre of tho worship of Hera among
tho Ionian Greeks, stood on the sea
shore about 4 m. W. of Tigani. It was
burnt by the Persians, but soon rebuilt,
probably in the time of Polycrates.
This seoond temple was of the Ionio
order, and was one of the largest of
Greek temples. It was gradually
filled with works of sculpture and
painting, of which it was plundered
by the Romans. Only one oolumn
remains, but the site has been ex-
cavated by the French, ahd the plan
of the temple satisfactorily restored.
Behind the Heraeum rises Mount
Ampelus ; and dose beside it flows the
brook Imbrasos, now Potoki, on the
banks of which, according to Pausanias,
Hera was born.
Karlovas!* the most important town
after Yathy, is the best point from
which to visit Ml Korki and the more
beautiful parts of tho island.
11. PATMOS (PATINO).
Patino is 20 m. 8. of the W. ex-
tremity of Samos and is a nahieh of
Digitized by L^ooQle
362
Lera t.
Leaeoe. It is irregular in form, and
about 10 m. long and 5 m, wide. Its
surface is rugged and broken, rising in
Bagios Elias to 600 ft. ; and its shores
are indented with numerous land-
locked creeks. Tbe principal port,
on the E. side, is one of the safest in
all the Greek islands. At the scdla
there is a small village. The most
marked peculiarity is that the island
“ is almost divided in two in the middle,
for in this part, within a distance of
little more than } m. from one another,
are two isthmuses only a few hundred
yards wide, and rising but slightly
above the sea* level. On the southern-
most of these the scala is situated,
while between the two stands the steep
hill on which the acropolis of the
Hellenio city was built'* (Tozer). A
few remains of the ancient town and
of the fortifications may still be seen.
The soil is everywhere volcanic and
very barren ; there is* no running
water, and the people depend on 3 or
4 wells and rain-water collected in
cisterns. The inhabitants aro entirely
Greek, and the males are employed
in the sponge fishery, or work as
labourers on the mainland. The N.
half of the island belongs to the civil
community, the S. half to the monks.
Patmos was used by the Bomans as
a place of banishment, and here, ac-
cording to universal tradition, St. John
wrote the Apocalypse, during the
exile to which he was condemned,
▲.D. 94, by the Emperor Domitian, for
preaching the Gospel. Nothing is
known of its ancient history, but in
the Middle Ages it must have been a
flourishing place, and many Italian
pictures are preserved in the houses.
The . celebrated Monastery of 8.
John the Divine is 1) m. from the
scala ; it crowns the summit of a high
hill, and is the most conspicuous
building in the island. From its roof
there is a striking panoramio view
which is supposed to have suggested
some of the imagery of the Revelation
of St John. The foundation of the
monastery dates from the latter half
of the 11th oenty., when a monk,
named Ghristodoulos, obtained from
the Emperor Alexius Comnenus a
oonoession of the island, whioh for
some time previously had been un-
inhabited. There are now about 30
monks. The Church contains some
interesting frescoes ; the body of the
founder, whose face is visible; and
other relios. The library , though
several of its greatest treasures were
carried off by Dr. E. D. Clarke, at the'
beginning of the oenty., still possesses
the famous Codex N.,— a quarto MS.
of the 6th oenty., written on purple
vellum in uncial letters in silver; a
MS. of the book of Job of the 7th or
8th centy. ; and the original bull of
Alexius Comnenus, authorising the
foundation of the monastery.
The Monastery of the Apooalypse is
about } m. from the scala in the
direction of the larger monastery. It
is entered from the back, and from
this point the visitor descends among
a variety of buildings by numerous
stone staircases. At the lowest point
is the cave whioh forms the Chapel of
the Apocalypse , and is said to be the
place where the Revelation was de-
livered. The ohapol is entered through
the Church of 8. Anne , and is formed
by the bare sides and roof of the cave ;
it is about 22 ft. long, and 15 ft. broad.
u In one part of the roof a rent is
pointed out, where the rook was broken
at the commencement of the Revela-
tion, and from a somewhat deeper cleft
in this the Divine voice is said to havo
proceeded " (Tozer). The pictures in
the iconostasis of the chapel are worthy
of notice. Thoro are soveral spots in
the island, associated with St. John,
at which churches have been built,
and in the library there is a legendary
life of the Apostle upon whioh the
traditions relating to these places are
based.
Lipso, Lepsia , an island near
Patmos, has a considerable village
upon it, and ancient remains.
12. LEROS (LERO).
This small island, lying off the coast
of Caria, is a kaza of Chios and is 6 m.
long and 4 m. broad. It is of irregular
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363
Calymna — A tfypalaea .
form, and consists of rocky hills in
which there are good marble quarries.
Its inhabitants, who came onginally
from Miletus,, bore a bad character;
and it is one of the many instances of
the permanence of local usages and
feelings in Greece that the people of
Leroe are looked upon with an evil
eye by their noighbours at the present
day. Besides a city of the* same
name, the island contained a temple
of Artemis, where the fabled trans-
formation of the sisters of Meleager
into guinea-fowls was said to have
taken plaoe, in memory of which, .
guinea-fowls were kept in the court
of that temple* Borne remains of it
ate found in the walls and foundations .
of a Church erected near the harbour
Parih&ni (*V Tlap04rior) s a name
handed down by tradition from the
shrine of the Virgin-goddess. This
port is on the N. side of the island,
and is sheltered by some barren rocks
off its entrance. Under the Knights
of Rhodes Leroe was a dependency of
Lango (Coe).
The modern town stands on a
sloping hill on the E. side, and is
crowned by a ruined eastle of the
Middle Ages. The inhabitants of
Leros number about 3000. They are:
engaged in agriculture, the carrying
trade, and the sponge fishery ; and,
since the English occupation or Egypt,
many of them have settled as shop-
keepers in Alexandria. m •
I . ' • . / . *'••••
. IK OALYMNA (KALYMNO).
Calymna lies off the coast of Oaria;
between Leros and Cos. It appears
to have been the principal island of
the group which Homer oalls Calydnae
f II. Xi. 677), comprising Leros, lelen-
aos, and a few barren rooks in the
neighbouring sea. Calymna was
originally inhabited by Oarians, and
was afterwards oolonised by Thessa-
lian Aeolians or Dorians, under
Heraoleid leaders. At the time of
the Troian war it was' subject to
Artemisia of Halicarnassus, together
with the neighbouring islands of Cos
and Nisyros (Herod, vii. 99). Under
the Knights of Rhodes it was called
Calamo , and formed part of the fief of
Lango (Cos). In 1523 it was added .
to the Osmanli Empire by Suleiman I.,
and it is now a kaza of Chios saniak.
The inhabitants, about 7000, all live
at the Scala, anct. Notium, or in the
town, Kalymno , which stands on an
elevated platform a little less than an
hour’s walk from it They are prin-
cipally employed in the carrying trade
and sponge fishery. The best harbour
is Pothia.
The island is bare and mountainous,
and can no longer be called “silvis
umbrosa Calymne ” (Or. Ari. Am. ii.
81). It produces, however, figs, wine,
barley, oil, and excellent honey ; for
the latter it was also celebrated in
antiquity — “ Feeundaqne melle Ca-
lymne ” (Ov. Mat. viii. 222). .
Pliny mentions the existence of 3 or .
4 ancient towns. The principal re-
mains are in the valley above the
harbour Linari, on the W. side of the
island. The moot important ruins are
those of a large church row XpurroS
rfit 'ItpowraAty*, built on the site of a
temple of Apollo. 8. of the modern
town there is a plain called Argot as in
the island of Casos.
Close to the W. shore of Kalymno .
is * the island of Telendos, on which
there are extensive ruins. It is now ;
only oooupied by shepherds.
Kalymno can be reached by steamer
from Smyrna or by kaik from Budrftm.
14. A8TYPALAEA (A&TRO-
. FALLA).
Astypalasa fital. Stamvalia ) was
originally inhabited by Oarians, and
afterwards oolonised from Megara. It
was called Astypalasa from the
mother of Annaeus, but had previously
been known as Pyrrho, Pyiaea, and
Mr rp**4(a, « Table of the Gods,”
on aooount of its verdure. In n.o. 165
the Romans concluded an alliance with
the island, probably on aooount of its
excellent harbours and central position
in the Aegean, and under the Em-
perors it was reoognised as a free state.
The favourite hero of the island was
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364
Cos.
Oleomenes. an athlete, to whom, or to
Achillas, the Astypalaeans rendered
diyine honours. Hegesander related
that a couple of hares having been
brought into Astypalaea from Anaphe,
the island became bo overrun with
them that the inhabitants were obliged
to consult the Delphlo oracle, which
advised their hunting them with dogs
(Athen. ix.). This tale is a counter-
part to the one about the brace of
partridges introduced from Astypalaea
into Anaphe. In the Middle Ages it
was in tne possession of a Venetian
noble, named Quirini. In the 16th
centy. it was taken by the TurkB, and
it is now a nahieh of Kalymno.
Atiropalia consists of two large
rooky masses, united in the oentre by
an isthmus, which, in the narrowest
part, is only 500 ft across. On the
N. and 8. between the two halves of
the island are ddep bays, of which the
southern is sheltered by several desert
islets, to which Ovid alludes in the
line, “oinotaque piscosis Astypalaea
vadis M ( Ar . Am. ii. 82). One of the
harbours, Maltetana , is a very good
one. The town, whioh bears the
same name as the island, and occupies
the site of the ancient oapital, is on
the W. side of the southern bay. It
lies within a fine castle, built, in 1418,
by John Quirini, Count of Stampalia,
whioh commands a splendid prospect,
extending in dear weather to Crete.
The streets are small, narrow, and
dark, but the houses are good. Out-
side the town is an extraordinary
number of ohurches and chapels,
sometimes as many as six in a row.
They are built to a great extent from
the ruins of the andent temples, and in
every part of the town there are seen
capitals of oolumns and other remains.
The town contains about 1500 in-
habitants, who still wear the andent
embroidered costumes, and ooarae
jewelry of their own manufacture.
They speak a ourious patois, romaio
in origin, but which even neighbour-
ing islanders have a difficulty in
understanding. Pliny (viii 59) says
that the mussels of Astypalaea were
very celebrated, and they are still
taken off the ooast Here the best
sponges are found.
The best way to visit Astropalia is
by kaik from Kalymno.
15. 008 (KOS).
Cos (Ital. Stanchio , Turk. IUan-keui ,
from 4a rdv *&) is one of the most
renowned of that beautiful chain of
islands whioh covers the western shore
of A. Minor. Noted as containing one
of the cities of the Doric Hexapolis — j
whose sanctuary was situated on the
Triopian promontory adjoining the
oity of Cnidus — it became celebrated
as the birthplace of the painter
Apelles, and the physioian Hippo-
crates ; and still more distinguished
as being the only state in A. Minor
which refused to obey tho edict of
Mithridates ordering the massacre of
all Homan citizens.
Tho island was originally peopled
by Polasgi, under the leaUerehip of
Merops, whence its early name Me-
ropit; subsequently it was succes-
sively inhabited by Aeolian*, tho
Heraclidae, the Asolo pidae, a colony
from Bpidaurus, who introduced into
the island the worship of Aesculapius,
and bv the Dorians, when they
founded the Hexapolis. It acknow-
ledged the supremacy of Athens, and
was fortified by Alcibiados at the
close of the Peloponnesian war. It
recognised Alexander the Great, and
afterwards falling to the lot of Anti-
gone, was given up to Egypt by
Ptolemy, the nephew of Antigone.
The Homans showed it great favour.
Claudius bestowed upon it tho privi-
leges of a free state, and Antoninus
Pius rebuilt the chief city after it had
been destroyed by an earthquake.
An interesting inscription associates
Cos with Herod the Tetrurch, whose
father, according to Josephus, had
conferred many favours on it. As the
Byzantine Empire dedioed, its shores
were exposed to piratical attacks from
all sides, and the island had little
peace until, under the name of Lango,
it beoame part of the maritime state
Digitized by
Google
865
Go*.
founded by the Knights of Rhodes.
It was occupied in 1815 by Foulques de
Villaret; and in 1866 it gave asylum
to many of the Armenian families
th&t fled from Lesser Armenia during
the last years of that kingdom, and
were granted lands at Kephalo. From
1454 to 1460, Coe successfully resisted
the attacks made upon it by Mu-
hammad II., but in 1528, after the
fall of Rhodes, it was annexed to the
Osmanli Empire. During the War of
Indopendenoe, it suffered less than
most of the other islands. It is now
a kaza of Chios sanj&k.
Kos is long and narrow ; it is 28 m.
in length, from N.E. to 8.W., and
about Si m. in circuit. It is separated
from the Triopian promontory ( Cape
Krio) by a narrow strait, and its N.E.
extremity faces the bay of Halicar-
nassus ( Budr&m > At this end of the
island is the ohief town, Kos, situated
on a rich, well cultivated plain, to the
8. of which rises a high mountain
range, called, from its jagged summit,
Ml. Prion. This range extends about
10 m. to the 8.W., ana then gradually
sinks into the tablo-land which occu-
pies the oentre of the island. Beyond
the plateau a high headland of several
miles in extent forms the 8.W. termi-
nation of the island. In the first of
these natural divisions lie the vine-
yards which produoe the SuUana
grape: the orange and olive groves;
ana the gardens in wbioh the cele-
brated Kos lettuoe is (grown. The
second division is barren for the most
In the third division the mountain
sides afford pasturage for sheep and
goats, and in the ravines hero and
there are terraced gardens. The is-
land was knowh in ancient times for
its ointment and purple dye, for its
wines, and for the light transparent
drosses called Ooae eetfot.
The inhabitants, about 10,000, who
are nearly all Greeks, have several
interesting marriage and other customs
that deserve study. The dimate is
healthy except near the chief town,
where, owing to the proximity of a
lagoon, fever is oommon in summer.
The modem town Kos oocupies the
site of the ancient capital. It is well
built, but thinly inhabited. The most
interesting building is the large eaetle,
erected in the 14tn century by the
Knights of Rhodes, whose shields are
to be seen in various places sculptured
on the walls. A few fragments of
friezes from a Greek temple are hero
and there built into the ramparts.
These were possibly brought from the
temple of Aesoul&pius, for which Kos
was renowned, but of which the site
is unknown.
In the square in front of the castle
there is a magnificent plane-tree of
very great age. Its trunk measures
about 80 ft. in circumference, and its
branches are so immense that their
weight would bring them to the
ground if they were not supported
by shafts of marble croc tod by the
inhabitants, who have great roverenoe
for this monarch of trees, and who
believe that it flourished in the time
of Hippocrates, and that he gave daily
consultations under the shade of its
branches.
In the walls of the houses and
water-tanks in and around the town
are fragments of moulding and sculp-
ture. The ancient port U W. of the
castle, but it is now half filled with
mud, and only available for small
vessels.
About 1} hrs. from the town, on the
side of Mt. Prion, is the oelebmted
Fountain of Burinna, now eallod tho
“ Fountain of Hippocratos,” from
which an ancient aqueduct descends
to the town. The spring is approached
by a passage some yards long (with
walls of Cyclopean masonry, and an
angular roof like those of the corridors
of the Egyptian Pyramids! whioh
opens into a circular domed onambor.
This chamber, in whioh the spring
rises, resembles the Treasury of Atreus
at Mycenae, and its mode of construc-
tion points to a period of the earliest
antiquity. The nets from the entrance
to the fountain is one of great beauty ;
it embraces the town and roadstead
of Kos, the bay of Budrfim, and the
mountains beyond it On a clear day
Digitized by L^ooQle
866 Nisyros.
tho castle of Budrftm o&n be plainly of a oaatle erected by the Knights,
seen. whose escutoheons can still be seen.
At Kos, boats may bo hired for Here a guide should be taken to tisit
excursion* to Budr&m (p. 112), and the the ruins of Astypaiaea on the B.
ruins of Onidue (p. 117). A good stock shore. They consist of a few low
of provisions should be taken, as the walls, rude foundations and broken
boat may be detained 2 or 3 days by pottery. On the heudlond beyond
oontrary winds. Kephalo are the shapeless ruins of a
mediaeval tower called Chifut Kalesi ,
A tour of tho island may be made “Jews* Castle."
in 8 or 4 days. The roads are good The return to Kos is by the same
and the accommodation in the villages road. The island can be easily reached
fair. For the first 2 hrs. the road by steamer from Smyrna.
leads through the luxuriant gardens
and vineyards which border the town ;
it then emerges upon a marshy plain 16. N1SYROS (NI8YBO).
fringing the sea-snore. Here are an
aqueduct and the ruins of a mill, This Bmall round island whioh lies
probably the work of the Knights, off Cape Krio, between Cos and Telos,
In 3 hrs. the village of Pyli (good is not quite 10 m. in circumference,
aocommodation) is reached. In the It is of volcanic origin, and its high-
village are the remains of a fine Greek est point is 2271 ft The central
Umhy tho Charmyloion ; it consists of crater is oocupied by a lake strongly
a vaulted chumbor, with loculi at the impregnated with sulphur; and thoro
sides. The exterior has been richly are hot sulphur spriugs whioh are
ornamented. A portion of the archi- still in repute. .
trove and oornico of the doorway may Ni*yro* } according to the legend,
bo seen built into the fu 9 ade of a was formod by Poseidon, who tore it
neighbouring church. In a ravine away from Cos, and hurled it upon
about i hr. from Pyli is the ourious the giant Polybotes. Its first inhabir
deserted town of Palaeopyli. The tents are said to have been Carians t
entrance to tho ravine was guarded but already in the heroic ago it had
by a castle, built on an isolated rock, received a Dorian population, like
at the base of which are from 200 to other islands near it, with which it is
800 roofless store houses. There are mentioned by Homer as sending troops
no architectural details to fix their to the Greeks. It received other
date, but the two churches that re- Dorian settlements in the historio
main are Byzantine. One of them age. At the time of the Persian war
which has au apse with seats and an it was ruled by Queen Artemisia ; it
episcopal throne at the £. end, like next became a tributary ally of
the Church of Toroello, near Venice, Athens: subsequently it joined the
cannot be later than the 12th oenty. Lacedaemonians, but after the viotory
On the ceilings are remains of frescoes, at Cnidus, b.o. 394, it revolted from
superior in style to the ordinary By- Sparta. After the defeat of Antiochus
xantine fresco, and resembling early the Great by the Romans, it was as-
work of the Western schools. They signed to Rhodes ; and, with the rest
are possibly the work of the Knights of the Rhodian Republic, was united
of Rhodes. to the Roman Empire about b.o. 70.
From Pyli the road ascends gradu- The island was conquered by the
ally to the plateau upon whioh Anti- Knights of Rhodes, who gave it. in
makhi (3 hrs.), with its large modi- fief to the brothers Asaonti of Ischia
aeval castle, stands. On the sea-shore in 1316. It was obliged to keep a
to tike 8.E. are some foundations galley at the service of the Order, and
marking the site of Halieama. iu 1433 had five castles, of which the
principal were those at Mandruki and
At Kephalo (4 lira ) are the ruins Paloeocustro. The island passed with
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867
Telot — Sym&— Choice.
Rhodes into the hands of the Osmanlis.
Nisyros was celebrated of old for its
hot springs, its wine, and its mill-
stones. Its capital, which po sses s e d
a temple of Poseidon, was at the N.W.
corner, where there are extensive
rains of the town and its acropolis.
Nisyro has a population of about
2500, living in three villages, of which
the largest, Xandraki, is near the
rains of the old capital. There is no
good harbour, whence the inhabi-
tants are not so much a sea-faring
people as their neighbours. The
women still wear picturesque dresses
with embroidered sleeves, yellow tur-
bans, and a red skirt. Wine, almonds,
and valonea are exported.
Nisyro can be reached by steamer
from Smyrna, and a good room can be
obtained in the monastery.
17. TELOS (TILO).
Telos (Ital. Fitcopia or PucoptS
is a small island between Rhodes and
Nisyros. It was in ancient times
called Agathuna, and was noted for
its mill-stones. It was always a
Rhodian island, and followed the
fortunes of Rhodes, of which it is now
a nahieh. Telos was probably called
Piscopia , from a watch tower on one
of the heights, or, perhaps, because it
was once the residence or a bishop.
The island has three fair ports.
There are only two villages, both near
ancient sites. The largest Tito, or
Fisoopit is about £ lir.’s walk from the
seals ou the N. coast. On the steep
hill above it are remains of the old
capital and its acropolis. The in-
habitants, about 2000, maintain them-
selves by agriculture. They still
wear the old costumes, and they live
in a more primitive state than any of
the other islanders. There are many
lepers living in the houses.
Tito can be easily reached by lcaik
from Nisyro.
18. SYME (SYMI).
Spurn ( Swmbeki Adati) was one of
the early Dorian states that existed in
the 8.W. of Asia Minor before the
time of Homer. Nireua, after Aohilles
the handsomest among the Greeks at
Troy, came from 8yme. Its connec-
tion both with Onidus and Rhodes,
between which it lies, is indicated
by the tradition that it was peopled
bv a colony from Cnidus led by Ohtho-
nius, the son of Poseidon snd of Syme,
the daughter of Ialysus. Some time
after the Trojan war, the Cariana are
said to have obtained possession of
the island, but to have deserted it
again in consequence of a severe
draught. Its final settlement by the
Dorians is ascribed to the time of
their great migration. The island
was reckoned at 85 m. in circuit,
and had eight harbours and a town,
also called Byrne, of whioh there are
some trifling remains still extant
Under the Knights of Rhodes it at
first paid a contribution, called mor~
tuairty and afterwards its revenues
went to the Grand Master. It had a
castle and a signal station in connec-
tion with one on Mt 8. Stephen in
Rhodes. It is now a kata of Rhodes.
The island has a broken, ragged
outline, and is surrounded by islets
and rocks. It formerly produced
wine, and its hills were probably
wooded, as in the Middle Ages one of
its principal industries was boat
building. Its Turkish name 8umbeJci
comes from the light swift boats oalled
sumbek whioh were built there. The
only industry now is the sponge fishing,
which employs 150 boats and a dozen
good sited vessels. There is a large
trade in sponges, of which nearly one
half is with England.
The modern town is Situated at the
principal port, whioh forms a nohow
but deep and safe harbour, called the
Strand (Alyia&ls). The inhabitants,
about 7000, live together in the town
and at the port They are ohiefly
employed id the sponge fishery. On
the W. side of the island there is an
excellent harbour called Panormos,
with a large monastery by the shore.
19. CHALCE (KHALKI).
Chalet, or Chalda, how Khalki, or
Kharki , whioh lies off the W. coast of
Digitized by L^ooQle
Rhodos.
868
Rhodes, had in ancient times a small raised it from beneath the waves,
town of the same name, a temple of Ancient tradition and recent excava-
A polio, and a harbour. During the tions clearly indicate the early peop-
Peloponnesian war (B.a 412) the ling of the island by the Phoenicians.
Athenian fleet was stationed there to The Hellenic colonisation was as-
watch the movements of the enemy in cribed to Tlepolemus, the son of
Rhodos. In 1658 it was laid waste Ilorcules, before the Trojan war,
by the Yonetians under Morosini. and, after that war, to Althaemenes.
It is now a nabieh of Rhodes, with Homer mentions the three Dorian
which island it has always been settlements in Rhodes, namely, Lin-
closely connected. dus, Ialyaus, and Camirus ; ana these
Kbalki is rugged and mountainous, cities, with Oos, On id us, and Hali-
and has about 2500 inhabitants, who caroassus, formed the Dorian Hexa-
grow a little com, but are principally polis, which was established from a
engaged in the sponge fishery. The period of unknown antiquity, in the
harbour is good though small ; it pre- 8.W. oorner of Asia Minor. Rhodes
serves its ancient name of Emporeion soon became a great maritime state,
CE/twopcio^. The chief village is an or rather confederacy, the island
hour’s walk from the port, and near being parcelled out among the three
it are some Hellenic tombs and other cities above mentioned. The . Rho-
remains. dians made distant voyages, and
Greek stoamors call regularly at founded numerous colonies, of whioh
Khalki. the chief was Rhoda, in Iberia ; Gela,
in Sicily; Parthenope and Syboris,
in Italy; besides various settlements
20. RHODOS (RHODES, RODI> on the coast of Asia. During this
early period the government of each
From the most remote period of of the throe cities seems to have been
antiquity Rhodes has occupied a con- monarchical ; but about B.a 660 the
spiouous place in the page of history, whole island appears to have been
The ancient Rhodians were eminent united in an oligarchical republic,
.for their early civilisation, their the chief magistrates of which, called
valour, their knowledge of marine Prytanea, were taken from the family
affairs, and their cultivation of art of the Eratidae, who had been the
and literature. In more modem royal house of Ialysus. At the be-
times Rhodes was famous as the ginning of the Peloponnesian war
stronghold during two centuries of Rhodes was one of those Dorian
the Knights of S. John of Jerusalem, maritime states which wore subject
and as the aceuo of one of the most to Athens ; but in the twentieth
heroio defences on record. Besides year of the war, b.o. 412, it joined
these associations, its beautiful oli- the Spartan alliance, and the ;oligur-
mate and scenery will well repay a chical party, which had been de-
visit. pressed, recovered their former power
It is the most Eastern island of the under the leadership of Dorieus, so
Aegean Sea, and lies off the S. coast celebrated for his victories in all the
of Oaria, at the distance of about great Grecian games. In b.o. 408
12 m. Its length from N.E. to S.W. the new capital, the famous city of
is nearly 48 m. ; its greatest breadth Rhodes , was founded and peopled
20 m. In early times it was called from the three ancient cities of Lin-
Aetbraee, Ophiussa, and by other dus, Ialyaus, and Oamirus. It was
names, which are to be considered, built by Hippodamus of Miletus, who
however, rather as epithets thau as had been employed by the Athenians
distinct appellations. The most pri- to embellish tne Piraeus. Rhodes
mitive Greek records make mention soon became distinguished for the
of it Mythological stories ascribe splendour of its public edifices, and of
its origin to the power of Apollo, who the paintings and statues with whioh
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309
Bhodos .
they wore enrichod. It was in fact
one of Uio .most magnificent cities of
the ancient world; Strabo, who hod
reon Home, Alexandria, &c., gives the
preference to Rhodes (lib, xiv.) ; and
Pindar l&nd long before extolled the
island in one of his noblest odes
( Olpmp . vii.). The wealth of tho
Rhodians was derived partly from
their fertile soil and advantageous
situation, but still more from their
extensive commerce and tho wisdom
of their laws, especially those having
reference to maritime affairs. 8uch
indeed was the estimation in which
the latter were held, that many of
their regulations were embodied in
tho Roman Civil Law, and have
thence been adopted into all modem
codes.
After the Peloponnesian war the
history of the island presents a series
of conflicts between tne democratical
and oligarchical parties, and of sub-
jection to Athens and 8pnrta in turn,
till tho end of tho Social War, n.c.
355, when its independence was
acknowledged. Its iutemal dissen-
sions were at length composed by a
inixod form of government, uniting
the elements of aristocracy and de-
mocracy. The Rhodians submitted
to Alexander; but at his death they
expelled the Macedonian garrison.
In the ensuing wars they formed an
allianoe with Ptolemy, the son of
Legus, and Rhodes successfully en-
sured a siege by the forces of De-
metrius Poliorceies, who at length,
in admiration of the valour of the
besieged, presented them with the
engines which he had used against
their city, from the sale of which
they defrayed the cost of the statue
of the 8un, long celebrated, under the
name of the “ CoUmu* of Rhode * ,” as
one of the seven wonders of the world.
It was tho work of Chares of Lindns,
n slntuary in bronze, ami a favourite
pupil of Lysippus. The height of tho
statuo was upwards of 105 English
feet, it was twelve years in erecting,
and cost 800 talonts. It stood at the
entrance of the harbour of Rhodes,
but tbere Is no authority for the
statement that Its legs extended
[Turley,']
across tho ontranco of the port. It
was overthrow n and brpkon to p ; ooos
by an earthquake 56 years after its
erection, b.c. 224. Tho fragments
remained on tho snot till tlioy were
sold by the generul of the Khalif to
a Jow of Etnesa, .A.d. 672: tlioy
amotmtod to 900 camel-loads. It
may be worth whilo to uotice the
fact mentioned by Hume, in his
“ Fopulousncss of Anciont Nations,”
that the siege of Rhodes by Dorae-
trius Poliorcetes affords the only
example to be found in antiquity of
the establishment of a cartel for the
exchange of prisoners.
In the wars with Antioch us and
Mithridates, the Rhodians gave tho
Romans the powerful aid of their
fleet, and they were rewarded by tho
supremacy of Southern Cana, whero
they had settlements from an early
period. In the Civil Wars they
took part witli Caesar, and suffered
in consequence from Cassius, b.c. 42,
but wore afterwards compensated for
their looses by tho favour of Antony.
They wore at length deprived of their
independence by Claudius : and their
prosperity received its final blow
from an earthquake which laid the
city of Rhodes in rnins, a.d. 155. On
tho division of the empire, the island
was allotted to tho Emperors of the
East It was seized for a short
period by the Arabs, bnt was after-
wards recovered by the Byzantine
Emperors.
Early in the 14th ccnty. tho
Knights of 8. John of Jerusalem, who
after their expulsion from Palestine
bad found a temporary refugo in
Cyprus, received Fapal sanction to
turn their arms against tho Greeks.
On the 15th August, 1310, they took
the city of Rhodes, alter defeating an
army sent by Andronicus IL to its
relief. 'Hie (ittlo state they founded
consisted of Rhodes, amt the neigh-
bouring islands of Koa, Knlymno,
Loro, Nisyro,Tilo f Symi, ami Khnlki ;
aud on the mainland tlioy possessed
Smyrna, Budrftra, and some strong
forts, of which picturesque ruins still
remain. Under their now name, the
" Knights of Rhodes" they held the
2 n
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370
Rhodos .
island from 1309 to 1522, and were
engaged in perpetual warfare with
tlio O.-mauli Turks, checking for
many years the victorious career of
the most fatuous Sultans. Under
Helton do Villencuve, who built the
bastion still called Chateau de Ville-
nmve, Smyrna was captured (1345).
The next Grand Master, Be Gozon,
whose slaughter of a monster is de-
picted iu fresco in the house of a
Moslem in the Hue dee Chevaliers ,
defeated the Turkish fleet at Imbro ,
and helped the King of Lesser Ar-
menia to resist the Mem] Ok Sultan
of Egypt. After the loss of Smyrna
(140:<), the Knights built the Castle
of Peter at lludrOm (p. 114). In
1440 and 1444, Rhodes was unsuc-
cessfully besieged by the Egyptians,
and in 1480 ( under Pierre d’Aubusson,
it successfully resisted the might of
the conqueror of Constantinople. On
this occasion the siege lasted three
months, during which the Osmanlis
lost 9000 dead and 15,000 wounded.
It is suid that it is the memory of ono
of theso struggles which is perpetu-
ated ou every Italian coiu of tho
present day. A Prince of the House
of Savoy haviug performed prodigies
of valour, the Grand Master authorised
him to inscribe on his banner the
following motto : Fortiludo Ejus
Rhodium Tenuit, the first letters of
which words, fxrt, are inscribed
throe times on the rdgo of Italian
coins. In 1522, the Knights, after a
glorious resistance, were compelled to
surrender to Suleiman the Magnifi-
cent. They then retired first to Crete,
and next to Sicily, where they con-
tinued till 1530, when the Emperor
Charles V. coded to them the island
of Bfalta.
Few historic feats surpass in in-
terest tho siege of Rhode* by Sulei-
man. It lasted 5 months, during
which prodigies of valour were dis-
play ed by both Turks and Christians.
The Knights being at lost moved at
tho fate which must have inevitably
attended tbe Greek population, if the
town, whioh was no longer tenable,
should be carried by storm, acceded
to the terms held out by Suleiman.
The principal stipulations were : that
the churches should not be profaned
— that no children should be taken
from their parents — that the citizens
should be allowed the froq exercise of
the ir religion — that every individual,
whether knight or oitizen, should be
at liberty to quit the island — that
those Christians who remained should
pay no tribute for 5 years— that the
knights should depart in their own
galleys, and he supplied with addi-
tional transports from the Turkish
fleet, if they reouirod them— that
they should be allowed twelve days
from the ratification of the treaty to
embark their property — that that
property should include relics, conse-
crated vessels, records, and writings,
and all the artillery employed on
board their galleys.
Villiers de l’lsie Adam, the Grand
Blaster, embarked the last of his
sorrowing band. On the morning of
the 1st of January, 1523, the fleet,
consisting of about 50 sail of all de-
scriptions, put to sou. It was on hour
of woo ; but tho mourners looked
their Inst on tho shattered towers
from which the futo of war had
driven them, supported by the con-
sciousness that, tliough Rhodes had
pos ed from uuder their sway, their
protracted resistance had conferred
the farao of victory even on defeat.
The Turks, in token of respect for
the vanquished, long refrained from
defacing their armorial insignia and
inscriptions on the publio buildings of
the city.
The island of Rhodes rises gradu-
ally from the sea, and, towards the
centre, attains a considerable altitude.
It is dividod lengthways by a range of
mountains whicli runs in a zigzag
line from N.E. to S.W., throwing out
8pui s in a variety of directions. Tho
3 highest points are, Aft. S. Elias ,
2520 ft., once the sanotuarv of Helios,
tho Phoenician Baal : Mt. Atafro t
anct. Atabvros , on the highest point of
which, 4 068 ft., stands the Uh. of S.
John . built on the foundations of the
Greek temple of Zeus; and Jiff. Ac-
ramyti , 2706 ft Atabvros commands
a magnificent view of the island, of
Digitized by
Google
Rhodos.
371
nearly all the Bporades, and of the
Anatolian coast for about 100 miles.
From the town of Rhodes at the N.E.
corner there is a gradual rise to Mt
Atabyros, where the range forks ; one
branch, Mt. Acramyti, runs off in the
direction of Gape Monolithos, whilst
the other terminates at the S.W. end
of the island. Between 8. Elias and
Atabyros the range approaches the
N.W. coast, and hore the hills rise
abruptly from tho sea.
The N. half of tho island is tho
most picturesque and the most fertile.
The tower hills are rugged, broken,
and intersected by numerous ravines,
through many of whioli streams run
down to irrigate tho rioh but narrow
plain that benders the N.W. ooast from
Rhodes to Kala-varda. The plain
produoes luxuriant crops of corn, figs,
olives, lemons, oranges, and other
fruit; and round Villa- nova and
Trianda it is a continuous garden.
Inland there are some fine valleys, and
corn is largely grown on the sides of
the hills. The E. side of the island
runs in a direction from N.E. to 8.W.,
and with the exception of the plains
of Aphanto, Manola, and Massarin, is
not so fertile as the W. side.
The 8. half of the island is less
picturesque and less fertile ; there is
no coast plain ; in the 3 winter months
torrents rush down from the moun-
tains to the sea ; during the summer
months most of their beds are dry,
and the only vegetation consists of
small plane trees, oypresses, and long
lines of laurier roses. Away from the
coast, however, there are many spots
where the soil would produce good
crops if it were properly cultivated. *
In anoient times the mountain
range was oovered with dense forests
of pine, whence the Rhodians drew
supplies of timber for their fleets ; and
in modern times it has supplied con-
siderable quantities for the dockyards
of Constantinople. The fertility of
Rhodes was celebrated by Pindar
( Olytnp . vii.) ; but, owing to the in-
security and extortion of whioh the
inhabitants have been long the victims,
its agriculture is now in a very de-
pressed state, many of its finest fields
being now allowed to lie waste, and
the island not producing corn sufficient
even for its scanty population. The
wine, too, has sadly degenerated from
that mentioned by Virgil ( Georg . ii.
102) as fit for the feasts of the gods.
Rhodes produces oil, oranges, citrons,
and other fruits ; and, if properly cul-
tivated, might produce most neces-
saries in profusion.
The pojndal ion of tho island is about
27,000, of whom 6000 are Moslems,
3000 Jews, and the remainder Greeks.
Of this whole number, 10,000 dwell in
the oapital and its suburbs. There
are 54 villages or hamlets, many of
whose names are evidently Hellenic.
They are generally thinly inhabited,
tho largest containing 16U0 inhabi-
tants.
The climate is proverbially fine.
There is hardly a day throughout the
ear in whioh the sun is not visible,
ut the heat is always .tempered by
fresh breezes from the sea, and even
in summer the nights are oool. The
qporteman will find hares and part-
ridges in all parts of the island, wood-
cock during the season, and deer, first
introduced oy the Knights, in tho pino
districts. Various species of exceUent
fish, with coral and sponges, aro fouud
in the surrounding sea.
The oitv of Rhodes, in which tho
Vali of the Arohipelagto Vildyet re-
sides, is situated at the N.E. extremity
of the island, and has an imposing
appearance when viewed from the sea.
It is built in the form of an amphi-
theatre, on ground rising gently from
the water’s edge, and was strongly
fortified, having a moated castle of
great size and strength, and being
surrounded by walls with flanking
towers. These works were constructed
by the Knights of 8t John ; and they
bear evidence of the same skill as was
afterwards exhibited in the fortifica-
tions of Malta. Above tho ramparts
appear the domes and minarets of
the mosques and some tufted palm-
trees. The interior is disappointing —
narrow winding lanes and mean houses
of soft stone having generally replaced
the substantial buildings of the
Knights. Contrarv to what might
2 b 2
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372
Bh (Him.
have beeu expected, the best streets
ure in the quarter inhabited by the
Jews. The Greeks occupy distinct
suburbs called Marat and Neomara * ,
outside the oity. On the land side
the town is surrounded by a Turkish
cemetery, beyond which are some de-
tached and finely situated country-
houses and gardens, and then suburbs
and more country houses. The Palace
of the Grand Master and the Cb. of
8. John, whioli contained some tomb-
stones! of Grand Masters and Knights,
and had been converted into a mosque,
were almost entirely destroyed by the
explosion of the powder-magazine,
which was struck by lightning Nov. 6,
1856. About 600 Of the inhabitants
were killed at the same time. Ail
earthquake a yoar afterwards com-
pleted the destruction, The massive
houses in the Street of the Knights
witlistood the shock, and these with
the hospital and the city walls are
almost the only remains of the me-
diaeval portion of the town. The
Grand IJotpitul of the Knights is
now a barrack. Its finely carved
wooden doors were taken to France
many years ago. The Street of the
Kuights, Hue tie* Chevalier * . bears a
strong resemblance to parts of Valctta,
in Malta, for which it probably was
the model. Many of the stone houses
in tins quarter have the armorial bear-
ings of the Knights sculptured on their
walls, where may bo distinguished the
unns of Eugluiul, France, the Popes,
and tho heraldic devices of some of
the most illustrious families in Europe.
The wiodows have generally been dis-
figured by tho wooden lattices placed
before them by the Moslems to conceal
the ladies of their harems. The mo-
dern town, though occupying only a
fourth port of the site of the ancient
city, is still too extensive for its pre-
sent population.
It has two harbour #; tho smaller,
a fine basin, with a narrow entrance,
is sheltered on all sides, but the Turks
have allowed it to be so much choked
up by sand that it can now be used
only for small cruft. The other liar-
+ Some of these have been removed to tho
Music ile Cluny at Paris.
hour is a little larger, with deep water,
but is exposed to the N.K. winds.
When the wind is strong in this direc-
tion, ships cannot enter the harbour,
hut either bring up under the lee of
Windmill Point, or deeper into the
Bay of Tjrianda, during the gale;
or else ran across and anohar in Mar-
mar ice Bay, or in Port Gavaliere on
the opposite ooast. A lighthouse is
erected on the Mill Point, and another
one on the mole between the two
harbours, over a fort wbioh protects
them. The trade of Rhodes is now
inconsiderable. There are hardly any
HeUenio remain* in ; the city. The
ancient coins hear a pomegranate
ilower on £heir reverse. There is a
British Consul at Rhodes.
• ‘ ' • ! . 1.1
Tour in tux Island. "i
: '.I *
A traveller with 12 or 14 days at
his disposal will do woll to employ
them in excursions into the interior
of the island. He should proouro
through his consul a Yol Teskereh, or
travelling passport. Fair riding horses
and good males and donkeys can be
hired (Index). In the south there is
often difficulty in getting food, but in
tho north, mutton, kid, fowls, eggs,
and milk oan be obtained. The tra-
veller should take with him tea,
coffee, sugar, rice, macaroni, cheese,
some spirits, wine, butter, and candles.
He should provide himself with a pair
of tho famod Rhodian boots, which are
made of stout, soft, uutanned calf-skin,
to come woll up over tho knees, as
without them, when walking, which
ho will be obliged to do very fre-
quently, his nether garments will soon
be torn to pieoes by tho underwood.
Thero are no tuns, except at tho
capital. The traveller will have to
sloop in one of the monasteries or in
private houses, which, though clean,
are geuorally full of fleas. Some-
times the room set apart for tho
women in u church can bo obtained.
A complete tour of the island is
given below, but travellers pressed for
time oan see the most picturesque dis-
tricts, and visit the sites of lalvsus,
Oamirus, and Lindus in 4 days, sleep-
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Rhodos.
: m
ing at Kala-varda, Artamiti, and
Manola.
Leaving the capital and proceeding
along the E. aide of the island, we
travel over broken pioturesque ground
by Koekinu and Kalathies to Anhanio
(2J hra.), *t the N. end of a plain of
the same name. After traversing the
plain, the ground rises, and at Arhh-
angelos (2 hrs.) we cross a ridge,
called Sambikdy by a pass that leads
to the fertile valley of Manola , or
Malona (1 hr.). Leaving this village
we pass through Mauarin to Kalathot,
beyond which a spur from the central
range approaches the sea, and the
scenery becomes much wilder.
Undo, Lindut (1) hrs.), a pictur-
esque town with steep streets, nest-
ling, with its flat houses, in a narrow
ravine of broken limestone rock. On
one ride lies a small bay of deep blue
water almost entirely enclosed by
rugged oliffs; on the other the
tnoaern harbour of Lindo; while in
front rises a triangular mass of lofty
rock, on the summit of which stand
the battlemented towers of a mediaeval
castle. The houses, like those of
Rhodes, are ornamented with the
arms of the Knights and fragments
of mediaeval carving, or built among
the gateways And arches of the medi-
aeval town. Below the castle is the
theatre , hewn out of the rock. Within
the castle, near the cistern and the
ruined chapel, aro fragments of sculp-
tured or inscribed marble. On the
N. ride of the city are Greek rock-
hewn tombs, one of which, now shat-
tered by earthquake, has been carved
into the likeness of an Ionic facade.
The tombs excavated by Biliotti and
8alzmann have been covered up.
Beyond Lindo we follow a very
bad path through Pylana to Lartoe
(2 hrs.). Here travellers pressed for
time can turn N. and take the road
to the Monastery of Artamiti , on the
slope of Mt. Artamiti,. one of the
shoulders of Atabyros; thence they
can ride round the base of Mt. 8.
Elias to Kala-varda and Rhodek
Travelling 8.W. from Lartoe, we
enter a district which produces all
sorts of grain, silk, figs, olives,
oranges, and lemons, and pass through
Sklipio , shot. Aedepium (2 hrs.),
Vail (1 hr.), Gennadi (1 hr.), and
Lakhania (2 hrs.), to
Katavia (3 hrs.), the most southern
village in tne island. Here we turn
N. and either follow the barren coast-
line, or ride over the hills by Meeanagro
(1 hr.) to Apolalckia (2 hrs.) near the
coast In this district there aro no
villages, and, except in winter, little
water. Leaving Apolakkia the coun-
try improves as we pass through
AmWiOi Prophylia , and Itirioi to
Monolithot (5J hrs.) and 8iana (14
hrs.), beautifully situated on the side
of ML S. John, We now cross the
southern slopes of Mt Atabyros to
S. Itidoro* (21 hrs.) at its foot, and
thence follow a narrow path through
a dense pine forest intersected by
several streams to
Laerma (2} hrs.), the most central
village in the island. Proceeding
from Laerma to Apollona (3 hrs.), on
the ride of Mt. 8. Elias, the landscape
gradually opens out, the forests dis-
appear, and the hills are covered with
grass, which affords excellent pastur-
age for sheep and goats. From Apol-
lona to Ambona (8 hrs.), beneath the
peak of Atabyros, the general aspect
of the oountry is uninteresting. Leav-
ing Ambbnn, where the best wine in
the island is made, we proceed by
KasteUo and Salakko (4 hrs,) to
Kala-varda (2J hrs.), where the
narrow fringe of fertile plain that
extends to Rhodes commences. On
the coast near Kala-varda, in the
deep recess of an amphitheatre of
hills, is the rite of the old Phoenician
city of Camirue. The tombs that
were opened here have been covered
up, ana the only remains are frag-
ments of Hellenic pottery. From
Kala-varda it is a day’s ride over
the plain to Rhodes ; but the follow-
ing zigzag course may be followed
through an interesting district and
• fine scenery. Phanei (1 hr.) ; Soroni,
Tholoe (1 hr.) ; Dimilia (2J hra.);
Platania, Arkhipoli (2f hrs.); Peitoe
(1| hra.); Scalopetra (1 hr.); Duma-
Digitized by L^ooQle
374 Bhodo8.
tria (3 lira.) ; Muritza , Bcutula, Villa- is always p large stock of pillows,
nova (2 hrs.), 011 the coast in the mazilaria, which are used bpth as
richest part of the plain; Kremasto, pillows and septs., There is a)sp a
Trianda (| hr.), near which is the sife good supply of cotton quiltings,
of lalytus, now marked by a solitary called poplomata, which serve the
oolumn, shattered and fallen, ana double purpose of blanket and mat-
multitudes of potsherds ; Kandili , tress. These bedding materials may
Neomara*, and Bhodes (1) hrs.). be regarded as a permanent invest-
The Bhodian peasant is nearly inent of , a portion of the peasant's
always the owner of a plot of ground, sayings. One wall of the chamber is
sufficient for the maintenance of his always decorated by a collection of
family, which he tills himself. Moat earthenware plates. These were for-
of the land of Bhodes is thus held and merly in great port of the kind
cultivated by peasant proprietors— a known as Lindas (or Bhodian) plates ;
system no aoubt favourable to the but owing to the great demand which
peasants, considered as individuals, has arisen for this ware in Europe,
but not conducive to the improvement they arc now seldom seen ; and the
of tho soil. The peasants have prices asked in the island aro as high
neither tho capital nor the intelli- as olsowliero. The manufacture of
gence for the proper cultivation of Lindus plates was introduced pt an
their ‘land, nor have they a sufficient unknown period during the Middle
motive for it. They consider the Ages by Persian exiles. The indos-
land as the means of obtaining enough try was partly contemporary with thp
for their own wants, not as capable of rule of the Knights, as is proved by
yielding a surplus for exportation; some rare specimens on which are
consequently their agriculture is of depicted ooats-of-arms. A plate of
tho rudest kind. They aro in the inferior make, which boars a Greek
habit of clearing ground ou tho sidos inscription with the date 1007, is sup-
of the mountains by burning the posed to be amongst the latest pro-
forest, and of leaving it waste after duced. This peasant’s foqd consists
raising a single crop. Even suppos- principally of bread of a good quality,
ing the peasant to have the means cheese, eggs, and salt fish. In most
and inclination to increase his agri- of the villages the soil is sufficiently
cultural produce, export on a large fertile, and produces fruit and wine,
scale would be difficult on account the sale of the surplus of which
of the absence of roads and the sole enables the peasant to supply himself
mode of transport — on the bocks of with such imported articles os coffee,
mules. The peasant lives in a well- rice, and sugar: In the districts
built houso of good freestone, which whoro tho produce is of a less valu-
ta abundant io the 8.E. part of tho ablo kind, these last-mentioned articles
island. The interior of the houso are almost altogether wanting (from
consists of a single square chamber, the poverty of the inhabitants), and
the roof of which is usually supported oil is substituted for butter,
by a stone arch of very wide span; Marriages in Bhodes are unnatur-
but in the villages near the pine ally early, it being rare to find a
forests, in the centre of the island, peasant girl who lias reached her Ifitli
large beams are employed instead of year unmarried. Notwithstanding
the stone arch. The only furniture this, the Bhodians, both male and
is a bedstead, and a row of lareo fcmalo, are a flue, strong, healthy,
wooden chests, to kocp tho household handsome race,
articles, which are always provided There are schools in ihe principal
by the wife on her marriage, and villages, and in the town of Bhodes ;
handed down from mother to daughter, but as a rule the peasant can neither
It is only occasionally that such luxu- read nor write. Ho is not deficient
ries as a table or chair are seen. In in intelligence ; his disposition ta
the hou«e of a thriving peasant there quiet and obliging, combined with
Digitized by ^.ooQle
Carpathos — Casos. 376
grout simplicity of manner; and his
hospitality is so treat that he always
refuses payment for any refreshment
the traveller may take in his house.
The craft arid duplicity which dis-
tinguish the Groek race are less pro-
minent features s merit the Rhodians
than in the other islands of . the
Archipelago.
The peasants are exceedingly at-
tached to their religion, and devote
the surplus wealth of each village to
the erection of a church. These
churches arc all creditable specimens
of a style of architecture indigenous
in the island, which hns retained the
pointed arches, groined vaultings and
piers of the modiocval Gothic. It
would appear that the style of archi-
tecture employed by the Knights of
St. John iu the 15th century has been
preserved by tradition, and trans-
mitted ns a craft from generation to
generation of Rhodians through the
rude hands of the native builders.
The interiors are deoorated with
paintings of tho rudest kind. The
stylo of the 12th century has boen
constantly repeatod without the
slightest improvement, and with
Chinese accuracy. The screens of
the altars are richly carved in wood,
and the pulpits and other parts of
the church are often similarly orna-
mented.
21. CARPATH08 (SOARPANTO).
Searpanto, a kaza of Rhodes, is
situated between Rhodes and Crete,
in what was formerly called from the
island the “ Carpathian Sea.” The
coast is generally steep, but there are
several good though small harbours
which were once much used by Italian
sailors, ,who gave them their present
names — Porto di Tristamo, P. Grato,
P. Mnlo, AA The island is bare,
rocky, and mountainous, and its high-
est point, Lastos, is about 4000 ft
Carpathos is written Kpdwaffot by
Homer, who mentions it along with
Nisyros, Casos, and CoS (II. ii. 676).
It was always a Doric country, depen-
dent bh Rhodes, for no autonomous
coins of Carpathos have been disco-
vered, while Rhodian coins are com-
monly found ip the Island. It appears
to have been well peopled in antiquity,
and, according to Strabo, oontained
fonr towns. The site of Aroesine has
been identified by Ross with Arfcfoo,
situated on a promontory on the W.
coast; while Posidium was situated
upon a corresponding cape upon the
£. side of the island, and is now called
Posin (Tloirlr for TJoas(Stoy). The
most extensive ruins — sites of temples,
tombs, and many inscriptions — are at
Burgnnti, anct Brycus, at the N.W.
end of the island. There are ruins
of an ancient town upon a rook,
Sdkastron, off the western coast, and
of another town upon the islet 8aria t
which is 10 m. in circumference, and
is separated by a narrow strait from
the northern extremity of Carpathos.
The ruins in Saria, which are now
called. Palatia, may possibly bo thoso
of Nisyros, a town mentionod by
Strabo (compare the names 2 ttpia and
Nnrvp(a).
Tho inhabitant s, about 8000, live in
0 villages. Many of the men, who
arc expert carpenters and joiners,
seek employment in A. Minor in the
summer months ; others are employed
in the sponge and coral fisheries.
Agriculture, which is much neglected,
is entirely in the hands of the women.
The island is Hch in ancient customs,
especially the mountain village of
JOlymboS, where they speak a patois re-
taining many classical words unknown
elsewhere. Specimens of the old cos-
tume of Carpathos, which is Byzan-
tine in character, may still be found.
The hares of Carpnthos are noted at
the present day, and partridges are
plentiful. There are numbers of wild
goats on S&ria. The Carpathian 8ea
m which the fish Scams Urct&nsis, so
highly esteemed by tho Romans, was
caught, famishes some of the best
coral in the Levant
Caroathos can be reached by kaik
from Rhodes.
22 . CASOS (ICASO).
Casos is situated between Carpal
tbos and Crete, and is mentioned 07
Digitized by L^ooQle
376
Megifte.
llomer (II. ii. 070). It consists of a touches, an4 Kaso must bo reached
single ridge of mountains of oonsi- by kaik from Oreto or Rhodes,
derable height Off the N. aud .W.
sides there are several rooks and
islets. Borne remains of the ancient 23. MEGISTE (CASTELORIZO).
town, which was also palled Canon,
are found in tlie interior of the island, Oasteloriso, sometimes called Costal
at the village of Poltn (a diminutive Rosso from the ruddy colour of the
instead of n^Xioy or noXiSio?). The rocks, is about 60 m. E. of Rhodes,
ancient port-town was at Emporeton , of which it is a kaza, and about 1 m.
where there are some tombs and other from Andifilo ( Aniiphellus ) on the
traces of antiquity. No autonomous coast of Lycia.
coins have been discovered in Cosos, Megiste appears to have been oolo-
which was probably always dependent nised by Rhodiaus, and to liave con-
on either Cos or Rhodes. In the tained a town called Oisthene. It
southern part of the island there is a was noted for its excellent harbour,
small, fertile plain, surroundod by' which is still much frequented. In
mountains, called Argos , a name which the Middle Ages a strong castle was
it lias retained from the earliest times, built which was alternately occupied
We find also an Argos in Calymnos by the kings of Cyprus, the Knights
and Nisyros. Before the Greek revo- of Rhodes, the Memlfiks of Egypt,
lution Kaso contained a population and the Turks. After the capture of
of 12,000, of whom 3000 wero able to Rhodes, Cnstelorjzo was spued by
carry arms. During the first 3 years the conquerors, and became a plaoe
of thp war, the ships of this little of refuge for Greeks from other
island blockaded the Muhammadan islands. The people engaged in corn-
towns of Crete, and inflicted consider- morce, and the islund had uttained a
able damage on the Turks. The high degree of prosperity when it was
Pasha of Egypt at lougth determined taken, 1639, by the Venetians, who
to crush the Kasians ; and on June 18, sacked the town and carried away
1824, a squadron of 45 vessels, with most of the inhabitants prisoners,
troops on board, surrounded the island. The remaining Greeks wero reduced
The Moslems effected a landing dur- to a state pf great misery. The
ing the following night, and the island became the favourite haunt of
island was speedily reduced. About pirates, and it is only since the
500 Kasians fell in action, and 2000 Crimean War that it has shown signs
women and children were dragged of reviving prosperity,
into slavery. After this catastrophe, Castclorizo produces nothing. Its
the islund was nearly deserted for importance is due to its situation off
some years, the remaining inhabitants Antiphellus, and to its small land-
having taken refuge in Greooe ; but locked harbour in which ships can
a large portion of them returned, moor close to the shore. The town is
When Ross visited the island in 1843, well-built, but the streets are narrow
lie found a population of 5000, pos- and dirty. On tho spit ore the ruins
scssing 75 largo morcliant vessels, and of the castle. The population, about
extensively engaged in the general 7000, includes many ship-carpenters
commerce of the Mediterranean. Since and sponge- fishers. Several of tho
that period the islanders have con- wealthier men own ships, whieh are
tinued to increase in numbers and in engaged in the limlier trade with
prosperity. Blast of the captains of Egypt. Ships proceeding N. from
the Greek steamers in the Levant Alexandria often stop to be cleaned
come from Kaso. in the harbour ; and a small fleet of
boats is employed in the sponge
The island, which is uow a kaza of fishery on tho African coast.
Rhodes, has uo harbour, but Bliips lie Steamers touch weekly on their
off somo islets to tho N. No steamer way from Smyrna to Adalia.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
INDEX TO CLASSICAL NAMES OF PLACES MENTIONED
IN THE HANDBOOK.
TV |<a«<s on wbtdi IV |ri*ew *rt dtxribad u« (kvwa tha> : UI. r<g«fbm Ikas (l«J.
refer Vo lb« Introduction.
AN mUu, Ml.
A boo nl- (etc ho*. 2,
Acampata, H., IN, M, Sit.
Arbernala, Cav., |.
Actllaaoa, Ml.
Adtorlxiacnm, It.
Armenia, 111 . Ili
Acroenoa, [ 44 ] («•), Ill, 144
A 4 a. 7 ft.
A did*. 111 .
Adam, 171 . 1M. 117 .
Adrmmytllum, [ 41 ], Aft.
Adramu, 177 .
Ar*ae, ftft, l»o.
Aegaro*. Ml.
A^gaanoiamt, [it].
Arthalela In#.. 3 IN.
VrthalU In*.. Mft
Acthrwc* In*.. 3 ft*.
Agatboma In#., »7.
Arinb. Mt
A Kata. MO
Alpollol, It.
A khyraooa, Cl
Al*b*l>d*. [ 41 ], lift.
Alelaa Main, |ft.
Aloxandri* Intra, 191.
Alexandria, Mom, 6ft, ftft.
AkxandrU Troaa. ft, C7, it.
24ft.
Altnda. 111 .
Ayik#. 231 .
AmauU Galea, 193 . § 71 .
Amanua, Moot, U I. 2« I, fTf,
2*6.
AmauU. [2] (23). [43], [Ift],
10 , 1 ft.
Ammiria, 1 .
AmaiuaU, Mona, 47.
AtnMada. lit.
Ambia, [ift], ftftft, Ml.
Anfeoa, 2.
Amnia*, 7.
A morlaia, [ 4 ft]. (MJ. [•»]. M,
146.
Amprta*, Mcmw, 359, 3ftl.
Auipblpoha, 3 »i.
Am pun, ftft.
An* boar*. 14ft.
A nart JftiopoUa. 292.
Anatho, 29 ft.
A DATA, Lac.. 104
Aoaaarbm, ( 43 ). 189 .
Anchtaln*. 1*4. 14*.
[TWJlfry.J
Aocyra. (n). [ 4 ft]. It. it, ftft,
Ancrra->4der •, 92.
Amlabalta, Ift*
Andraca. lift.
Amfrapa, [ 42 ], It.
Anen m r ta m, 17ft.
AnUodn*, ftft.
Anlbea, 101.
Ant Hww ftn. In .. 389.
Anthtaa, M, 14*.
Aoticragos M-o US.
Antlgonia Inn*, u.
Xnllmopili*. ft.
AnUucbiaad Maeandnim, Iti,
111.
AntlnrJiU Mrpimta, 203.
AnUocbia Im dl#«, [3«j. (13).
lit. l«t, Ifti. Ift4.
AnlLubl %-Tr*Ho*, Iti.
AnU-paioa, la*. 3ft4.
AnMpbeihu. 121. 171, 37«.
AntUaa, 3ftl, M4.
Anil- Tanma, Mona, [11). ( IS)
Ml, M7. 27t.
Aplontapolla. 107
A oral*, ftft.
Aparina, 1*1.
Apamoa, (34). [.it], [loj. (41).
[4«], 1*X lot. 111 . 141. 144
Apatnaa Zmiai, Yfta.
Apert**, 12ft.
Apliw (la. I Am.. ftl.
ApbrodMaa. [111. 102. 107.
lit.
Apbroriidaa, Olllclae 117.
A|*>llnoU. [39). ft-, tO.
\|*>lli*nla*^itufmlla, 1 47.
A|*41**iia-Thynlaa, In*., ft.
A (■•llnnta, 94.
\ pnlbtfina- Ilkmn. I aft.
\p Ukn Cwr, Iftt.
A|.|4* 13ft.
Aquae Sar* i mac, 37.
A rabU*o«, Ml. Ml 271, 273.
Aram NaharjIra, 279.
Ararat, Ml.. !•«. tH.
Araaxxa, 249.
Arms*, 122.
Arm tea, Kl . 193, 19*. 217. 222,
229, 227. 231. 290, 334.
ArWta. 104. 3*4. 2ftt. 293,
SOi.
Area. 271.
Arradtopoll*. 90.
Arcralne. 37ft.
ArdtrUk ftft. lit.
AmerKw, In*, 112.
Arrixnr, 23ft.
Arrtbnaa, L*c, 2M.
Arrtlaa, 4.
Argaen*, Mon*, (1). 9ft, IS,
1*3.
Argo*. [Ift]
Arpta, Unp , 3*3. 376.
Argyria, 4
Ariannm. |«9.
Anaraihta. If7. 213
ArUha. Ml. Mi.
AriltalU, 37
AnmorU. 227.
Armani*. (IS). [3ft], (T ), [II],
104. 19ft. 1*0, m
Armenia M*>*. [11). lav
— Minor, (.j) (u). 1 9ft.
Arvada, 13J
A 'aanla*. 1 1. 233.
Ar*ei>e, Lar . 315
trdnoft, *4. |7i.
\r»l’M. Ur., 23ft
Arlane#, -
A' iaial >. l*S. 22*. ttt.
A lynla. I.h, ftft, 6a.
lryr*ori .. 123
A '} raralu* Kl . 122. 174.
A**nta, l.*m . IM. 121. 110.
Aacantiv, |\h1 . 99.
Aaciaptum, 373
Ada, lYov,, [ ift], (ja). ( .7],
t»i. f«« m«j
VaofKta, FI. lax
Aipndiv 173.
An*, 64, at. 314.
Amyrt*. 396. 294, M
AMypalaaa, Inv. 144, SCI.
A mj pal*# a, Urba, SOS.
A-ma, M.
Atabyroa, Mon*. 379, 972.
Aieon*, (44)
Athen*e, 4.
Alrat. 306.
Alrupalmr, 31 \
Attach*. 316.
A Italia, (39). Uf. 172.
A Una, 67.
Attmfta, lot, 119.
Aagae, 174.
Angnrtopolla. 144.
A altatrnu* lar , 126.
Anbcrm#. 166. lift.
2 C
Digitized by
Google
878
Aunesis, 174.
Axylon, Gamp., 161.
AsanI, 69.
Classical Name* of Places .
Babylon, 283, 307.
» Esagila Temp., 308.
Babylonia, 279, 280.
Bocchiom, Ins., 89.
Budimon, 269.
Baglstanus, Mona, 327.
Baine, 191.
Balbnra, 121.
Bainbyce, 289.
BaraU, 168.
Barbaltous, 297.
Bargylla, 112.
Baris, 160.
Bastleon, 14.
Basilica Tberma, 37.
Bathys Rbyax, 42.
Batnae, 291.
Uemisus, 179.
Beroea, 289.
Betabde, 246, 301.
Blainaa, 194, 232.
Bilechas, FI., 279, 291.
Blllueus, FI., [44], 6.
Bindaeus, 150.
Birtba, Bithru, 290, 300.
IMtbynla, [26], [33], [361. [30],
u [42], [13], [44].
Bitliyolum, 6.
lilaunduH, ISO.
llollsaoe, 366, 367.
Bouana, 194.
Branchltlae, 111.
Brouxus, 146.
Brj’cuH, 376.
Baboo, 121.
Bumodus, FI.. 294, 306.
Burkina, Fona, 366.
Byzantium, [21].
0.
Cabtra, 46.
Caborklum, [44].
Caocabo Come, 144, 145.
Cadi, 60, 62.
Cadiuos, Mona, 103, 105, 119,
120 .
Caesarea ad Auuzarbuin, 188.
Caesarea- Maxara, [ 43 ], [4s],
60, 66, 243, 201, 270.
Calcu», FI., 61, 85, 88.
Cal ah, 296.
Calantlila, 179.
4'allirrbo6, 290.
Calpe, 8.
Calycadnus, FI., [2], 176, 182.
Calydnae, lna., 363.
Calydna, 346.
Calynina, Ins., Ill, 171, 368.
Camacha, 261.
Cam he, 37.
Camlrus, 368, 378.
Camlsa, 47.
Camisene, 47.
Campus Amoenos, 19.
Cane, Mona, 69.
Canopium, 11.
Capauta, Lac., . 320.
Cappadocia, [21], [22], [:13],
, Prima, [43].
, Secunda, [43].
Capria, Lac., 173.
Capras. FI., 102.
Caralltis, Pal, 120, 121.
Carallla, 149, 164.
Carallls, Llm., 149, 164.
Carnmbia, lYom., 2.
Curbala, 169.
Carcathlocerta, 196, 265.
Carcbcmiah, [ 21 ], 290.
Cardamyle, 366, 367.
Caria, [22], [26], [30], [35],
[40], [43], [44].
Carmalls, 267.
Carmalus, FI., 207.
Car pathos, lna, 344, 876.
Carrhae, 283, 221.
Carsus, 192
Carum, 102.
Caruso, ll.
Carydium {Pan), 160, 167.
Cason, Ins., 344, 876.
Cantahala, 168, 189.
Castamoii, 6, 7.
CrtUnmna, 276.
CniarrUactos, FI., J06, 123.
Caystrl, Ped., 132.
Caystrua, FI., [2], [47], 90 , 91,
94, 100.
Cazanes, FI., 120.
Cebren FI., 68.
Cebrenc, 67.
Cedrea, [44], 145.
Celacnae, [ 22 ], 106 .
( fclonderts, 176.
Ccoon (lalllcAiioo, 14.
Ccntritcs, F|., 195, 246.
( ’enuiua, 4.
Ceretapa, 120.
Oestrus, FI., 160, 161, 165, 171,
172, 173.
Oetis, 176.
Oetlus, FI., 86.
Chabina, FI., 258.
Chaboras, FI., 279, 280, 298.
Cluiborus, Urbe, 291.
Jliaerouea, [30].
Jhalce, Chaida, 867.
Jhalcnamdybts, 318.
haldaea, [45], 313.
'Iialybon, 289.
Charadrus, 176.
Cliarran, 291.
Cldmaerm, 124.
Chios, Ins., [26], [27], 170, 344,
Cliltara, 86.
.’hoaspes. Fl„ 331.
Jhocrodes, 4.
’1 bolus, 106.
Cibyra, [40], [41], 119, 121.
Cidyessus, 145. 146.
Cilbian Plain, 91.
Cilicia, [26], [29], [36], (87),
[38], [41]. [42], [43], (46).
[47], 278.
Prima, [43].
I Sec on da, [43]. . • , •
Trachea, [34], [39]. [43].‘
Ciliclan Oates, [29], [3. J, [40j,
[45], 160, 192, 272.
CiUza, 287.
Circesiura, 279, 229.
Cisthene, 376.
Claras, 92, 110.
Claudiopolis, [43], 6.
Claudlopolls 176, 190.
Clazomenae, 69, 106.
Cludras, FI., 106.
Cnidus, [27], [28], 117, 171,
364, 366, 367, 368.
COCU8US, 270.
Coenae, 280.
Cogaraus, FI., 83, 129, 130.
Colchlas, Via, 173.
Colobatus, FI., 120.
Coloe, 91.
Colonln, [46], 48.
ArcbolaU, 162.
Colophon, [23], [24], 92, 119.
('•oloftiae, 104, 1 m7.
Comana Cappadoclac, [21],
[38], [45], 268, 270, 272.
Comana Poutica, [42], 34, 46.
Coinmagono, [21], [ 44 ], [46],
207.
Cuprate*, FI., 331,
Coracesium, [IP], 174.
Coraslum, 178.
Coras»lae, Xus., 170, 359.
Corax, Mons, 92.
Coressus, Mon.*, 93, 94, 100.
(Joropfssus, 178, 181, 183.
Corns, [31], [34].
(Jorsote, 280.
('arycu*, [48], 158, 176, 183.
Corydallu, 124.
Jos, [27], 171, 344, 363, 964,
360, 368.
Colyaeum, [44], 57.
CJotylus, Mons, 65, 68.
Cotyora, 4 .
Cragus, Moos, 128, 171.
Crambosa, Ins., 178.
Crateia, 6.
Crerona, 162, 156.
Cretopolla, 163.
Cromnn, 2.
Cttsipboii, 283, 304, 318.
Cuoaxa, [29], 280, 283.
Cnthah, 309.
Cybt8tra, 168.
Cydnos, FI., [J], 181,186, 186.
187.
Cylnda, 188.
Cyllene, 89.
Cyme, [22], [24], 88.
Cypartssia, Ins., 369.
Cyprus, Ins., t41], [42], 344,
Cyrna, FI., 218,
Cytorus, 2 .
Cyzk.w, [M], £31). CM].C«1.
[43].
Digitized by L^ooQle
Cl/uttrical Name* of Place*.
379
DabU-, 14.
Dadastana, 14.
Dadjbn, 7.
Dalfeandoa, 163, 161.
Datnasctuk, 39*. 399, 311, 313.
Dara, 381.
Daraa, 393.
Daron, 196.
Dar Sarglna, 396.
Daacuaa, 365.
Daslmon, 41.
Daxltnonitla, 41.
Delphinium, 366, 367.
Dcmctrlam, l*ort., 349.
Dorbc, [43], 167.
Itorexene, 349.
Dhnipu, 333.
Dlndymas, Mona, [18], 17, 60,
131.
Dlooaeaarea, 180.
DIocaeaarea-CeretApa, 130.
IMocaeaarfft-NaxJanxus, 169.
DJoecmta AaUna, [43].
Orient!*, [431
Pontic*, [43], 196.
Dtoapolla, 9.
Dkwpolla-Cablra, 46.
Dloapolla-Laodlcaa, 103.
Dtoapontu*, Ptoy., [43].
Doara, 66.
Docea, 13.
Doclmlnm, 136, 144, 146.
Dullche, 387.
Dollchlatc, 1m., 1U, 171.
Dorylacam, [44], [48], 16, 16,
66, 144, 146.
Dragal, 164.
Drakanon, 369.
Drtxe\ 164.
Drymuaaa, 69.
Dryosa, In*., 359.
Dora, 301.
Kcbalana, 383, 337, Ml.
Edema, 381. 890.
Elaea, 67, 69, 88.
Elaeoaa-Sebaate, 178, 179.
Emporelon, 368, 376.
Epbaana, [31 J, [34], [36], [391,
[31], [36], [40], [41]; [43),
93-98, 146.
Eplphanla, 190
Erech, 313.
Ermas, 864.
Erlxa, 130.
Erpa, 368.
KrroiQK. 101.
Krytbrar. [34], [36], 109.
Kuaglna, 34, 36.
Eocarpla, 146.
Eochaita, 31.
Eodon, FI., 191.
Eudoxlaa, 17.
Endoxlopolla, 160.
Knlaeita, FI., 331.
Salop*, 60.
Humane la, [39], [41], 106, 108,
136, 146.
Kophratenal*. Pror., 390.
Eaphratm, Wy., [88], [39],
[4 ]. T46], [46], 193, 194,
364, 379, 380, 3b3, 388, 397,
307, 313.
Riirlpoa Pyrrliaens, 863.
Eoromoa, 116.
Earopna, 880, 316.
Earymedon, FI., [3], [3a),
164, 166, 173, 173, 174.
Kuebea, 60.
Enapoena, 364.
KYarchaa, FL, 11.
F.
Fauatinopolta, 180, 166.
FlaYlopona, 6.
O.
Oabae, 383.
Oagae, 134.
Galatia, [31], [33], [33], [34],
gj). [39], [41], [43], [43],
Prima, [43].
Rulntarir, [431.
Oallealtun, Mona, 93.
tlangra, [43], [43], 10.
Ganxa&ia, 148.
Gargara, 06.
(larganw. Mom, 66, 66.
Garaanlra, 163.
Gaagamela, 383.
Gaoralna, 360.
Gaoxanitta, 398.
Oaxaca, 315.
Oaxinra, 41.
Oermanlda, 363, 808, 371, 376.
Germanlcopolta-Gangra, 10.
( Xrmenek ), 174,
Germe, 86.
Oermla, 6.
Glaucn«, FI., 31, 146.
Gorboou, S3.
Gordunn, [33], [88], 17.
Goedooar ba , 16.
Gordon Goose, 14. ,
Ooian, 398.
Granted*, FI., [38].
Grlmcnothyrae, 130.
Urynlam, H8.
Guana, 398.
Oygaea, Ijac., 83.
Gymnlaa, 196.
Hadrianl, 68.
Hadrtaaopolla, 6, 133.
Hadrlamratberal, 61.
Hakla, 189.
Haltcaraamo*, [81], [89], 119,
171. 863, 866, 868.
Manantenm, 118.
l(alf«arm 366.
Holy** FI., [3], [33], [3u], [34J,
[40], [44], [48], [46], 3, 7,
38, 33, 34, 367.
Hamath. [31).
Hamaxla, 176.
Ilarpaaoa, FI., 196, 330.
Harran, 391.
Ilatrae, 3»6.
Hecatooncsi, 66. 69.
Heleaopontaa, Prov., [43].
Helleapontu, Ptoy., [43].
HephamMa, 348.
Hephaeotlon, 134.
Heradea (Atatff), 66.
Horadea<Cyb4atra, 168.
HeracJea-PunUca, [44], 1.
Haradeopolla, 36.
Heradla ad Latmam, 116.
ad Salbacmn, 119.
Hanoaena, Prom., 347.
Henna*, FI., 393.
Hennoa, FI., [3], T33). [33l
60, 70, 79, 93, 84, 88 , 91,
139.
Ultra, 383.
Hiera Game, 66.
Hlerapolla, 63, 183, 108, 187,
389.
Rlero-Caeaarea, 84.
Hleropolla, 146. 181 , lot, 368.
Hippoorioa, FI., 130.
HUH, 369.
Hotml, 177.
Honoriaa, Prm\, [43).
Ilyle, 101.
ttylln*, FI., 84.
IIypacpa.91.
llypine. Ft.. 6.
Hypaela, [46).
Ilyrcanla, 84.
Hyrcanlan Plain, 80, 81.
Hymi portaa, 399.
Hyasoa, 389.
.113.
lalyaoa, 868, 874.
Ibora, 40.
loaria, In*., 170, 344, 868. 369.
Icodnm, [43J. (43). (48), 16,
198, 144.
Ida, Mono, 66, 09, 363.
, Aacent of, 69.
Idyvna, 117.
IHaana, 349.
llUtra, 167.
fmbraao*, FI., 361.
Imhroa. In*., 63, 09, 346, 848.
Indno, FI., 116, 119, 138.
Infdla, 348.
IngHane, 348.
Inooloa, Ptoy., [43].
{«jjy») i P6).(98).[44J.
Ipana, [31], [33], 133.
Jrla, FI., [3], 3, 34, 30, 41, 44,
46,47.
la, 309.
Digitized by L^ooQle
380
Classical Names of Places.
l*aura Vet us, [42], 156.
Isauila, [42], [43], 176.
lslnda, 120.
lass, 3M.
191, 192, 279.
Ivan, 194.
J.
Jat, 339.
Jaaottintu, Pruui., 4.
Julia, 132.
Jtillopulfo, 14, 186.
JudJiilaiwpolls-MocLsus, [43],
-n.au
x.
Kabala, 132.
Kaoygelll, 179.
KurUaa, 31.
Kormeius, FI., 133.
Katakekaumene, [44], 121.
Keramoti Agora. 131.
Kerketeus Mona., 350. ,
Ktursis, [46], 31.
Kbelai, 236.
Kbltarlxum, 243.
Kbmiia, [44].
Kbonue, [44], [47] 106.
Klmrui, 242.
Klaka, 266.
Koloc, 44.
Kmuba, 122.
Kmuuia, 147.
Kydram, 103.
L.
Lade, Ins., [26], »9, 111.
Ijoerlet, 176.
luLgauia'ADiaUa'uiKilU*, 14.
]<agbe, 120.
I<agiua, 117.
l*aguasae, Ins., 69, 346.
llamas, 179.
Ixudicea Combusts, [34J, 16,
138.
Ail Lycum, [34], [39],
[40], [41], [43], 103, 107.
l*txi tic*, 38.
l«arauda, 167, 176, 177.
l^irlaaa, 88, lot.
Erya, 26 b.
(yimr&d), 194.
Ixiumciu Sinus, 116.
Latiuua, Muus, llu, 1H. 113.
117.
l<ebedus, loo.
I^aduui, From., 64, 6S, 68, 69.
l<euuxa, Ins., 63, 344, 346.
I^epethyamui, Mona, 65, G9,
362, 364.
tapala, Ids., 362.
lapu acts, 2.
"twXerua, Isa., ni, 362.
T*sb«s Ina., [27], 69, 361.
L*tbaeus. FI ., 100.
l.eucae, 69.
Iseuconium, 367.
l^eucopbrya, 101, 346.
I.lmoae, 147, 161, 169.
Llmyra, 122, 124.
1 .Indus, 368, 373.
liopadlum, 60.
Ixtuloo, [46], 160.
Lycandus, [46].
LycaooU, [22], [40], [41], [42],
[43].
Lyda, [22], [30], [38], [39],
(40], [42], [13].
I.yrua, FI. (Asia), 84, 102, 103,
104, 106, 131.
I.ycus, FI. (Bitbynis), 1.
(Pootos), 44, 46, 46, 48,
103, 200, 263.
Lydae, 116.
I.ydia [23], [24], [26], [30],
[32], [35], [40], [41], [43],
[44].
l.yrncsstis, 346.
Lyalas, [II].
Lysis, FI., 120.
Lyatrs, [4o], [42], 148, 166.
K.
Macaria, lua., 361.
Maceatua, 11., 01, 62.
Macria, Ids., 366.
•Maeander, FI., [2], [20], [47],
lul, 102, 100, lu7. 111, 115.
116, 118, 131, 136, 145.
Maeattder, Sources of, 107.
Maeonls, 129.
Magslsasus, 49.
Magnesia ad Mae mdrum, [2 1],
[33], 94, 100, 107, 110.
a«l Sipylum, [32], [31],
[36], 80.
Magydus, 174.
Malaoopla, 163, 160.
Maliua, 100.
Mamoaaaon, 169.
Manavaxagerd, 231.
ManxauaUa, 259.
Maras! on, 263.
Maide, Marble, 292.
Marloe, 190.
Mantyas, FI., 106. 107, 116.
Martyropolla, [46].
Miisiua, Mona, 197, 245, 279,
291 .
M iMticyliiii, Mona, 122, 128.
Maalauru, 92, 102.
Maliane, I7o.
Matrlca, Fous, 10.
Maurianum (/’a**), 160.
Maurocsstron, 48.
Masses, 60.
Medua, FI., 335.
Megalopolis, 42.
Megiste, Ina., 171, 376.
Melacna, Prom., 60, 170.
Melon ua, FI., 177.
Molamphyllus, Ina., 369.
Moles, FI., [2], 6, 46, 63, 66,
174.
Meles, VI., 74, 78, 70, 92.
Melissa, 146.
Melitene, [42], [43], [16], 366,
268, 261, 270.
Meloe, 176.
Meropis, Ina., 364.
Merus, [44], 116, 141.
Mesambrla, Pn»ui., 33:1.
Mesopotamia, 115J, [tu], 270,
280, 281.
MeapUa, 104.
Mesoogis, Mona, 90, 91, 92, S3,
101, 118, 170.
Metbymna, 66, 66, 69, 361,
364.
Metropolis, 03, 136, 146.
Metropolitans Campus, 146.
Midseum, [44], 16, 66.
Midas, Fous, 132.
Mlletopolls, 61.
Miletus, [23], [24], [26], [26],
(28], [30], 111, 11
M Ilyas 182.
Mimas, Mona, 09.
Mitthla, 149.
Mitylene, [26],
69, 344, 361,
Mobolla, 116.
Modes ua, 64.
Modrene, 14.
Monumeutum
18.
116, 367.
[17], [31],
363.
Ancyranum,
Mopsouestia, 191.
Mormonda, 78.
Moraynua, FI., 118.
Mosychb*, Mona, 318.
Musguui, 17.
Mycale, Mona, llo, 17o, 369.
Mygdouius, FI., 279, 212.
Mylasa, 112, 114, 116.
Myudua, 113, 114.
Myra, [43], 125.
Myrina ,88, 347.
Myrua, FI., 125, 126.
My ala, [32], [36], [40], [44].
X.
NacAela, 60.
Nacolia, 141, 144.
Macraaa, 85.
NuU, 130.
Naxos, lua., (27).
Naxlanzua, 169.
Nea Oulopliou, 91, 109.
Neat’, 318.
Ncaudria, 63.
Neapolla, 146. 149, 152.
Neocaesarea, [43], 45.
NeoclaudlopulU, lu.
Neontelcbva, oh.
Nlcaea, [44], [17], [18]. 16.
Nlcarla, 111.
Nkepborltuu, 208 .
Nkupborlus, FI., 216.
Kkoinedia, [43].
Nlcopolis, 48, 02.
Moeveh, 246, 304, 300, 304,
313.
Niulca, 180.
Nluus, 291.
Digitized by i^ooQle
Glaitftdl Jfcmeb' of Pladfr
Ntphgtes, Mom, 314.
Nippur, 313. i ( - r
Nlaibla, [463, 898, 361.
NlagTos, JjM. t 171, 344, . 363,
Nbyroa, Urbs, 376. ...
Nora, 164. . ,
Noilum, 63, 109. 363; .
Nympbaeum,- 76, 33 .
Nyaa, 163.
Odry-aes, FI., 60.
Ocnoanda, 131, 133.
Oenoe, 3, 359. » . • . •
01 h«, [38], [43], 183. i
Olbasa, 130.
Olbla, 177, 183.
Olgasays, Mom, 9. .
Olympus, 134.
Olympus, Mom (Ionian), 69,
93.
(l/csblan), 66, 363, 363.
(My slan, [3], 16.
Oplita, FI., 309.
OphluMM, Ins., 368. ' '
Opslkion, 139. i
Ordymuus, Mom, 363, 364. * '
Orgas, FI., 107.
Ormeleis, 130, 131.
Oronta*, FI., 338.
Oropus, 390.
OsrboOne, 379, 381..
Olrns, 146...
Prrgamnm, [33], [33], [84],
[36], [36], [41], 61, 66, 67,
69, 86, 107^108,869. .
Perkri, 330, . ...
Pern, 368.
Pers-arm«ola, 196.
Pcrsrpolls, 383, 836.
Persia, [36], 381, 888, 316. .
Pessimist [43], IV
Petobriga, 14.
fttohroge, 14.
l’hanae, 366, 367. • j
Phanaroea, 44.
Pharnada, 4.
Pbasetis, [36], [33], lM, 171.
Phasts, HI., 196. .
Pbaicmon, 13.
Pbellus, 136.
Pbenlka, 346.
Philadelphia, [41], [47], 88)
108.
Philomalinm, [41], 183, 148. j
Phlson, 348. i
Phocaea, [34], 09 , 89 . ...
Pbosnlce, 346.
Phrygia, [31], [33], [331 [341.
[361. [391. [38], tfwf [41],
Paciolus, FI., 83, 91.
Pactya*. FI., 93, 94.
PsgUB, Mon*, 74, 93.
Palaeapolis, 91, 93.
Palaeogambrlon, 61.
Palaeosoepsls, 64.
Palsies, 44.
PaHa, 17.
Palmyra. 399, 3l2.
Pemphjiia, [35], [38], [43],
Panlonium, 111.
Psnormus, 63.
Paphlagonia, [33], [36], [37],
[38], [43], [43].
Pappa, 148. . .
Parlais, 154.
Paroreus, Val., 132.
Pun bent us, FI., 1, Ul, 143.
Partbla, [371, [39], 183.
Paryadres, Mona, 310.
Parysatls, 380. , ,
Pasargada •, 383, 888.
Passala, 113.
Patara, 196, 171.
Patmoa, Ins., Ill, 17p, 344^
Pedum, 64.
Pegasus, Lac., 93.
Pelasgta, 361.
Peltae, 106, 106.
Pern. 164, 165, 171.
[Turkey.]
Pbylacaenm, 130.
Phyriles, FI*, 93.
Pbyscus, Urba, 117.
Ph^flcm, FI., »0.
Ilnam, *138.
Unarm, FI., l9l, 193.
Plsi.Ua [40], [43], [43]. .
Pltynsa, Ins., 366. t
Podalta, 133*
I'odandus, 100.
Poodle, 178. ,i ,
Potmanenon, 03. . i
Polybotus, 133. • . • j
PolymOdton, 64.
Pompdopolls (P a rt fcw yr fl ,
[43], 7.
Pompdopolis, Soli, 171, 179. •
Pontus, [33], [36], [36], [37],
[381 [39], [431 [44]. ,
Oalaticus, [43]. . : ,
I Polemociiacm, [43]. i
Poaddlom, Prom., 369.
» Posldlum, 376.
Postdlum. IYotn.,176,
. Praetorinm, 366.
Prlens, 110.
Prlmopolis, 173. i
Prtnubaria, 78.
Prion, Mona, 03, ,94, 306.
lYom. Sacrum, 136, 171.
Proaunna, 161.
Proa*, 60. , .
Praia* ad Hjrpiutn, 6.
Prymnssaua, .133, 148, ,
Psyra, Inm, 344, 8M.
Ptandaris, 373.
Ptsria, [31], % II, 99.
Pylae, 380.
Pylaea, Ins., 363.
Pylae Clltclaa, 160.
Pyraium, Fl n [3], 197, 191.
Pyrgos, 167. »
Pyrrba, In*., 363. .« »,. •
, Urba, 116, 363, 363.
Pytna, Mom.. 68. .
Pythicna, FI., 88. • j . , .
Itrhobotb, 399.
Rhagae, 316. •’ '"‘ r '
Hheeaena, 39ll ‘ ' * ! '
Rhltua, 4, 909 . ' '*• ;
■gft awwaw?
Rbodtapolfi, 134. „
Rhbtrinl Fontss, I4f. •"»'
Rhyndacna, FI., [3], 68,6*;0o.
Sigala aos, 146, lfco. ; n • i
Salbacoa, Mom, 103^193,118,
119,180.
SaloO, \m., 7$, 64 • |* . . ..
Samata, 379. i* ...... -i
Samoa, Im.. [33], [34], [36],
344* 86?]* C31 * Ul ' I,%S
SamosaU, 368,376, “’V*
8am oih race. Inm 69, 344, 8^1.
8angarim, FI., [3], (33J, [30].
[41]. [44], 6, 141. , ,/
Santana, 33.
SanUbarU, 1*4. . .
Saflce, Sana, Moos, 349, '
Saphe, 968, 391. .
8«di.. IM], mi, p*t (»•).
[niP'Maj.aaiw.
8arpedon, Prom.. 177.
Sara, FI., [3], 186. l67 f ,367 r
368,370,813.,
Sasima, 108. ,
8aUla, [43], 139, 900,. 3*3. , .
Satnloeta, ft., 64,96. * .
SaTaira, 142. * ..
Sbtda. 176. Vt
ScamaptW, FL, 97, 66. , , , \
Srapte Hylo, 866. ,
8cepda,68. ,.V.
8rlrtm, FI., 390.
Soopas, FI., 14.
8ebasle t 46.
(Aya$k\ 171, 178.
Phrygia*. 181, 1|6. ,
Sebasiea, f43J, [44], [461 48,
48. 196.
Sebastopolis [43], 86, 111 •. .
8©bastop 4la-MyrbM^66. ,\' st
8elmlti*, 176. , .
8ehmda (Bahylottl*X M,89l f
Seige, 178.
(Oeapedt nm X 178.
8e lf ea*nm 166.
Selusm, FI., 66.
Urba. 176.
Saaara, Ft, 180.
2 D
Digitized by ^.ooQle
888
Olauical Nantes of Places.
Sang, Ml.
Sesames,!.
Shnshan, 3S1.
Sturm. 34, 48.
Siberia, FI., 14.
8fblllA, 181.
Stborm, 84.
Side. [43], ITS.
Sidera- Ancyra, 63.
8idyma, 138.
Sillyum, 173.
Simpatakltis, 314.
{ttoethandus, 133.
81ngara, 398.
Sleeps, [33], [24], [29], [33], 8,
30.
apjliu. Moos, [31], 31, 89,
80, 81, 83.
Stoics, 370.
8Ulom, 187.
aursoe, 380.
Siva-Euasai, 30.
Smyrna. [31], [34], [31], [36],
[41], 70.
Stadium, 73.
Corjpheum, Moos, 74.
Meles. FI., 74.
Pagus, Moos, 74.
80s, 68.
8osnds; 199.
Soli, 179.
Sotyma, Moot, 1M, 171.
Sopheoe, 396.
Sorpsrs, 60.
Sossodrs, 89.'
8osopolls, 147.
Stauropolis, 118.
gtectorium, 149.
Stlphane Pslus, 38.
Stratonlcea, 116.
Sum, 383, 337, 8SI.
8uasn, 330.
Susarmia, 309.
Susurmseus, 4, 808.
Syedra, 176.
Sykes, 14.
8yme, Ids., 171, 887*
Synaus, 93.
Kynnada, [34], [41], [43], 149.
Syria, Pror., [43], [431, [49].
Syrlsn Gstea, 193, 868.
Syriss Acts, 3.
T.
Tabae, 107, 119.
T sb*ls, 139.
Tokina, 130.
Talbonds, 147.
Tardequia, 191.
Tsratus, FI., 61, 93.
laf 33 * [463, [4i) *
Tsttses, Pslus, 163.
Taurus, FI., 130.
Taurus, Moos, [3J. [31], [36],
[38], [44], 167, 168, 171, 197,
367, 393, 397, 376.
Tartum, 33, 34, 36, 66.
Teira, 90.
Tslassar, 399.
Telebass, FI., 196, 331, 344.
Telendos, Ins., 393.
Telineasus, 116, 133, 138.
Telos, Ins., 171, 344, 399, 867.
Tetnbrogius, FI., 136.
Tembris, FI., 19. 68.
Temeootbyrse, 139.
Temnos, 79.
Tsnedos, Ins.. 93, 99, 344, 846.
Tsos, 108, 109.
Tephrlke, 364.
Ttrmessus, 130.
Teuthrania, 88.
Thapeaoua, 380, 397.
Thasoe, Ins., 344, 849.
Tbeches, Mona, 196.
Tbeme, Anatolic, [44].
Armeniac, [44].
Buooellsrtote, [44].
( sppsdodc, [46].
< hsldses, [46].
'olonls, [46].
vhsndsn, [461.
— - I .ycandus, [46].
Mesopotamia, [46].
Opsikun, [44].
>ptimsie,T44].
Psphlsgonisn, [44].
Sebsstes, [46].
’hrakeaiao, [44].
Them lacy ra, 46.
Thcwtsonlum, 130.
Thcodorlsa, 6.
1 iieodoslopolis, 804, 861, 391.
Theotokla. 90.
Therms, FI., 107.
Thermae PhszemonStsrum, 39.
Thermodon, FI., 3, 46.
Thorax, Mous, 100.
Tbospla, 333.
itis, Lao., 336.
Thyateirs, [34], [41], 91, 94,
108.
Thjmbrion, 133.
Tbynlas, Ins., 8.
Tigrunooerts, 196, 246.
Tigris, Rlv., [49], 196, 335,
246, 348, 266, 379, 382, 394,
300, 313.
Tipbsah, 397.
Tiurn, [44], 1, 2.
Tlus, 128.
Tinolus, Mods, 82, 83, 84, 90,
91, 92, 93, 108.
Tonosa, 397.
Totiuemn, 13.
Tragasai, 94.
Tragasaean Islands, 111.
TrajanopoUs > Grlmsnotbyrse,
130.
1'raisnopoUs^elinus, 176.
Tralles, [39], 101.
Trans monte, 14.
TrspesopoUa, 103, 119.
Trapeses, 4, 103, 107.
Trams, 110.
Trioomia, 17.
Trio|4an Promy., 117, 896.
Tri polls, 4, 103, 107.
Troaa, 93.
Trocnada, 17.
Trogillum, Prom., 369.
TrogiUs, Urn., 166.
Troy, 93.
Tryea, 129.
Tuunanduo, 867, 272.
Tyana, [21], [43], 160, 164,
Tymandus, 147.
Tymbrianasaus, 131.
Tyriaeum, [39], 188, 148.
Tyropeum, [44].
Ulai, FI., 331.
Ur, 391, 818.
Urardhu, 194.
y.
Vasada. 149.
Venasa, [38], 198, 169.
Verinopolls, 34.
Vertex, 36, 44.
Viaroe. 161.
Villa Palmati, 164.
Vinda, 18.
Vologesia, 309.
X.
Xanthue, 127.
Xanthus, FI., [2], 132, 129,
127, 128, 171.
Xerabates, FI., 141, 143.
Z.
Zagora, FI., 11.
Zagrofl, Mons, 329.
Zakcus, 11.
Zara, 47, 264.
Zela, [39], 34, 44.
ZenwMa, 298.
Zephyrlum, Prom., 4, 177.
Zerynthus, 349.
Zeugma, 390.
Zigana, 202.
Zompl, Pons., 33.
Digitized by i^ooQle
( 383 )
INDEX TO ASIA MINOR
ABBREVIATIONS.
v. = Chief town of * Vtlftyei end residence of * Vail,
s. = Chief town of a Sanjak and residence of a Matessarif.
k. =s Chief town of a Kasa and residence of a Kalmakatn.
n. = Chief town of a Nahieh and residence of a Mndir.
r. = A first-class post station to which money may be sent, and at which post bones may be
obtained.
N.B.— There la a letter post to all chief towns of Vlliyeta, 8enjaks, and Kama.
* Telegraph stations from which European messages can be sent.
t Telegraph stations from which European and Turkish messages can be sent,
f Telegraph stations from which only Turkish messages can be sent.
T. s Turk; K. = Kurd; P. = Persian ; Ar- = Armenian ; Q. = Greek; N. = Nestorlan;
8, ss Syrian : Oh. = Cbaldaean ; J. = Jews ; T. as Tesldls.
The first .number after the name Indicates the page on which the place Is d escribed.
A.
Abadrh, 888.
Abaoha Plain, 880.
Abasili, 867.
Abbas Bet, 881.
ABBAS TTTHAJT, 881.
Hotel : Mir aloof (open
only In summer).
Abkrkks Kalkh, 818.
Ab-i-Bid, 881.
Ab-i-Busurg-i-Shustar R. t
888 .
Ab-UDitful R .. 889, 881.
Ab-i-Diz Valley, 888.
Abiqarv, 819.
Jb-i-gargar B., 889,
Ab-igargar Canal , 889.
Ab-LKarind if., 886.
Ab-i-Kerkhah if., 881.
Ab-i-Xkurd if., 889.
Ab-i-Sabt R., 880.
Ab-iShateit if., 888.
Abbbnk, 888.
Abu Hurarkit, 897.
[Turkey — vll. 95.]
Abu Renal (*.), 899.
Abuluont, 80,
AbuUiont Geul Late, 58.
Abu Maria, 899.
Abu Saijan, 818.
Abu 8brai, 899.
Abu-zsio-abad, 888.
Acramyti ML, 870, 871.
Acroteri Promontory , 889,
ADA-BAzifef (kA 5.
Population. : T. 10,000 ;
Ar. 5000; Q. Ac., 800.
Total, 15,800.
Hallway: 8Utlon, Ana-
tolian Rly., 51 m. distant.
Adala (n.\ 189.
ADALIAt i(b. r.) 188, 180.
191, 188, 188, 151, 158, 158,
155, 171, 178, 178.
Population : T, 18,000 ;
Arab, 5000 ; G. 5000. Total,
99.425.
Consulate : Vice-Consul :
G. A. Keun, Esq.
Hotel : If. Paranamat,
fair, P. 20-30 per diem.
Steamers : (I.) Pantaloon
Co. Once a week to Smyrna,
and once a week to Mersina,
calling at all Intermediate
ports. (II.) Joly Victoria
A Co . Fortn. to and from
Smyrna. (111.) Mahs&se.
Fortn., but Irregular.
Conveyances : Arabas.
To lsborta, P. 24-30 per
diem ; to Konla, P. 48 per
diem. Horst*, P. 24. Boats ,
P. 50.
Post : Imperial Ottoman.
Bank : Imperial Otto-
man .
Oafte: Attalosi Koja-
buyuk; Magnatls .
Doctors : l*dytimos ; Ma-
denis.
Khlns i Kishla ; Zanall-
oghlu.
At (v. r.), 186, 58,
187,190, 101, 868,
AD AH At
188,
878, 875, 876.
Consulate : Vice-Consul,
A. Dillon, E*q.
Hotels t H.de la C didst
Indifferent. A
2 ■
Digitized by L^ooQle
384
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Bank : Imperial Otto-
man.
Railways : To Tarsus and
Mend ns.
Adeljivaa (k.), 886, 884, 886.
Adhem R., 606.
DIAMAKf (K.), 868.
Aduamid, 887, 884.
Adrai Dagk Ml., 177.
Aerji Bel, 874.
Afan, 46.
Afkb-abad, 848.
AfiCm KaBA-IIISSAB f (8. F.),
131, 67, 68, 188, 184, 186,
144, 146.
Afrin R., 888.
Afshar, 146.
Aoaculi Kbui, 168, 163.
Aoao, 886.
Aoahz (k.X 881, 884, 880,
838, 836.
Aqavbu, 804.
Agbasji, 830.
Aouaja Kbui, 80.
Aoiuit, 138.
Aqiiamsali, 883.
Auiiau-iidkau, 181.
Aghkuubx Khan, S3, 88.
Aoiije Kalkh, 888.
AgiilasCn (n.), 160, 168.
AghlasAn Dagk ML, 160.
Agh-ova, 868.
Aohvkban, 881, 841.
Agin, 188.
Aguksos. 816.
AofcuiKX Kalkh, 818.
Agyakis. 863.
Ahat Kbui, 181, 146.
Ahmkp Bey Kbui, 61.
Ahmkdi, 383.
Ai'mkd Kalbii, 66.
Aiimkd Kulwan. 888.
AHMED LI, 88.
Station : Smyrna - Ala-
sl'.ehr Rly.
Aiimkd Sbuai, 88.
Ahmed Su R., 38.
Aiiwax, 888, 880, 881.
AIDIN + (s. f ), 101,80,81,
108, 107, 116, 146.
Population: T. 23,000; Q.
6300; J. 2000; Ar. 700.
To ai, 30,000.
Consulate : Consular-
Agent, A. Z. Enmorfopulo,
: Station on the
Smyrna- Dineir Rly. 4 trains
daily each way.
Bank : Imperial Otto-
man.
A ilia Chai R., 10..
A ink BazIb, 177, 180.
AiNB-GKULf (*.), 16, 67.
Ain Sifni, 887.
A! Strati Island, 848.
INTAB 1(N.), 887, !
876, 866, 868, 880.
AiVAJiK.t 68.
Aivqjik Su R., 64.
868,868,
AIYALI t (k.), 66, 88, 67, 68.
Population : (J. 35,000;
T. 200. Total, 35.239.,
Consulate : Vice-Consul,
A. Eliopouto, Esq.
Hotels : H. Smyrna ; H.
Cydonia. Fair. Room only,
P. 5 per diem ; food P. 20.
Steamers : (i.) Oourtji et
Cie. Every Tues.(fr»m Mity-
lene} to Kemer, Edremid,
Dardanelles, and Constanti-
nople. (U.)JfaAx6se. Weekly,
but iiTegular, (a.) to Mity-
lene, Dikoli, Smyrna. Chios,
and Crete: (u.) to kemer,
Edremid, Dardanelles, Galli-
poli. and Constantinople,
till.) I/amidiek. Fortn.
’1 uoumd Kri (from Smyrna),
sailing next day to Edremid,
Kemer, Mitylene, Dikeli,
Pbokia, and Smyrna, (iv.)
Cosmeto et Cie. Every Frl.
(from Constantinople) to
Mitylene and Porto Iero.
( v. j July Victoria. Every
wed. and Sat. (from
Smyrna) to I*emnoa, Dede-
agacli, and Salonika, (vl.)
Pantaloon Co. (a.) Every
Wed. (from Smyrna) to
Dardanelles, and Constanti-
nople ; (b.) every Sund.
(from Smyrna) to Lemnoe,
Dede-agach, and Salonika.
Conveyances : Araba, P.
60 p»*r iliein ; Horses, P. 20 ;
Boat*, P. 20.
Poat : Imperial Ottoman.
Bank : Banque Agricole ;
• Correspondence ’ of Im-
perial Ottoman Bank , and
Credit Lyonnais.
Caffes : Orpheus, Olympia,
New World.
Doctors : G. Strongili ; B.
Chrtstidi ; J. Gouta.
Khans : Hismet Pasha ;
Athanaciadi.
Aivanlu, 166.
Ajakshbhk, 884.
Ajauis Ska la, 814.
Ajejsh Tkpk, 898.
Ajemlu, 871, 874.
Ajikknd, 849.
Ajil, 889.
Aji Payam, 119.
Aji Su R ., 10. .
AjUus Geul Lake, 106.
Akbab-abad, 848.
Akbu Kbui, 118.
Akbulak. 817, 880.
Axmtnab, 66, 868.
Akbunar Dagk ML, 888.
Akbunab Khan, 887, 868.
Ak-cuai, 117.
Akcke Kayo, 88, 146.
Akchklab, 68.
AKOHB-BHEHBf (n.), 9, 1,
6, 168.
Bteamera : MahsOae, ir-
regularly to and from Eragli.
Akcke-Skekr Su R., 9.
Akche-Ttuk, 10.
Ak Dagk ML. 18, 34, 68 , 188,
148, 171, 888. 860.
Ak-daoh-madkki (k.X 84.
Akdam, 188.
Ak Denis Lake, 888 .
Ak-diza, 886 .
Ak Geul lake, 168, 161.
Akualkalaki, 881.
Akiialtsibii, 881, 819.
Akkir Dagk ML, 866, 876,
878.
AK-HISSARf (k.), 64, 61,
68,78, 86.
Railways : Station on
Manila -Soma branch line;
one train «lally each way.
Akhlat (k.). 886, 681, 664.
Akhtamab, 687, 864.
Akhtkbik, 680.
Akhybon, 864.
AkUi Plain, 689. '861.
Akka Kuf Mound, 800.
Ak Kalkh, 178.
Akkar Chai 1L, 146.
Ak Kbui, 111.
Ak Kkui>ju, 107.
Ak-Khan, 104.
Ax-Kiussb, 166.
Ak Liman, 177, 171, 186.
Ak-Mkzar, 816.
Ak-oluk, 67.
Akfunau, 816.
AkbaS, 176.
Ak-Sbkaf, 666.
Ak-Skkai f (k.), 166, 66, 166,
167,877.
Ak-Shxhb f (k. f.), 168, 146.
Akstafa, 818, 816, 817, 869.
Ak-bu (n,), 16.
Ak Su R., 11, 16, 49, 104,
166, 174, 676, 677, 604.
Ak-tabh, 184.
Ak-yiuan, 846.
Ala ba, 36.
Digitized by C,ooQle
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
385
Ala-bonae Groin, MS.
Alacham f (w.), 11. .
u . rnm .\
Ala Dock Su R., 14.
Alageue Daffk ML, 817, SSI,
Alaja (n.\ 81, SO, S7, 86, 44.
AUjja Chat R., 81.
Alaja Daffk Ml., 817.
ALA4A-KHlKf(lf.), 884.
Alaja-Siikhr, 189.
Alajik, 81.
Ala-Kiussr, 884.
Alaklessia, 180.
Alara Su 7?., 174.
Alashar Ova Plain, 888.
AtA-SHTORt 0c.), M, 188,
JfcAMukiatm.
Rail war : torminui,
Smyrna - Ala - lhehr Rly,
One train dally each way.
AUuhfftrd Valley, 888 , 888 .
Alata Su R., 179.
ALAYA f (x.), 174, 178, 184.
Staamera : /’antokow Cb.
Weekly to and from Smyrna
and Medina.
A s
Alkmam, 886.
Conanlata : British Con-
•ul, II. D. Darn bam, Eaq. i
V. S. Consul, F. l*oche.
Hotels : H. Asieiek; JET.
Itmahun. 8 franca per diem.
Ooneayaneaa t Mules and
Comet*. Ai«ont U mejld per
mule from Aleppo to Bagh-
dad.
Bankers : Zollinger A Cb. ;
iVxAe A to.
ALEXANDRETTA * (x. rA
198, 171, 887, 888.
Population : T. and An.
8800 ? Christians, 8800,
Toul 8080.
Cenanlato t Vice-Consul,
A. Qitonl, Eaq.
Hotel : it. AlaaandrcUa,
Indifferent.
Steamers t (I.) Messa-
Aeriat Maritime*. (a.)
Fortn. Fri. (from Egypt and
Syrian Coaat) to Mendna.
Smyrna, Salonika, and
1'imens ; (».) Fortn. Fri.
(from Smyrna) to Syrian
Coast and Ngypt. (II.)
AusL Hung . Uoyd, (a.)
Fort. Toes, (from Egypt and
Syrian Coaat) to Merslna,
Rhodes, Chios, and 8myma t
(s.) Fort. Wed. (from
Smyrna) to Syrian Coaat,
Egypt, and Trieste. (111.)
Egyptian ( KkedivUK).
Every Mon. from and to
Syrian Coast and Egypt,
(iv.) Mafutse. Irregular to
Constantinople and Egypt,
touching at into rm<-d late
porta, (v. ) Beil's A. Minor
SS. Cb. Weekly from and
to Egypt and Syrian Coaat.
(vl.) Pantaloon On. Korin,
to and from Smyrna and
Alexandria (vtl.) A noil's
l*rince Line, (a.) Fortn.
from and to Liverpool and
Manchester ; (b.) Every
SB day* from and to London
and .Antwerp; (c.) Ev-ry
38 days from and to Antwerp
and Hamburg.
Oonveyaaeest Carrvtges,
P. 73-06 per di»*tn ; to
Aleppo, P. 340-360 ; Horses,
P. 18-21 per diem ; to
Aleppo, p. 46-73.
Poet : imperial Ottoman ;
French.
Oaflfte: Spiro; Zironi.
Doctor : Bilias.
Khina: Vaspar; Spiro.
Alexandria TroaB, 80.
ALEXANDROPOL (pA 817,
180,881,887. *
Hotel: 7/. Ardashir, filr.
Conveyaneee : Phaeton ;
to Akstnfk, It*. 86; to Tlflto,
IU. 130 ; to Kara, Ha. 16.
Alctat, 188.
Alorkt, 818.
Au-abad, 841, 848.
Au-ai«u Hussm*, 889.
Am AnitA, 88, 108, 118.
Au Ukt, 88.
Am Bur Kaui, 157.
Ali Doffh Ml., 68, 68.
Au kl-Gharbi f (n.), 814.
Au Fakhr-kd-din Yaila,
180.
Au Khoja YoIcak Krui, 100.
Alumtar, 886, 880.
Alkan. 88.
Station : Smyrna - Ala -
Rhclir My.
Auk, 880.
Alkosn, 840.
Allah Bdnai, 180, 180.
Allar, 174 .
A imam, 871.
Almali Mis., 98.
Alt Arslan, 148, 147.
| fhLrt Krui, 18, 88. j
AUi-agach Daffh Ml., 44.
Altin-tash, 88, 87, 188.
(ȥ). Ȥ,
878, 888, 884.
Amadia (r.), 840.
Amamu, 817.
Amaxiax Gates, Tna, 198,
100 .
AmoiMtt ML, 180, ISO, 878,
888 .
AMARAUs.), 914.
Steamara: Twice a week
to Baghdad and Basra.
Ararat, 187.
Am ASK A (N.), 1.
Amranaz, 88.
Anrakaramsi, 188, Ml.
AmJbar Su 77., 848.
Amrora, 878.
Amid, 868.
Amira, 888.
Amir Albm, 79.
Station : Smyrna - Ala -
ahehr Rly.
Amisds, 9, 11.
Amk Ova Plain, 8M.
Ammakrh Kalrii, 948.
Amraklm, 888.
Ana, 899.
Ana rat, 884.
Anaku, 189.
Anamas Dagh ML, 184, 188.
AHAMBR, 176.
Bftaamars : Beil's A. Minor
Cb. We. kly to and from
Smyrna and Merslna.
Anamur Cape, 171.
Anar, 848.
ANATOLIA, EASTERN,
jp^jyby of. IM; history
ANATOLIA, WESTERN,
Animate In, [17); American
Missions to, [891 ; Architec-
ture In, [Mj j Birds of, [19] ;
Climate, (8J; Idsea^es, [81;
Geolog> of, [84] ; History of.
rt0-55j ; Hot fpringa In, [91 ;
Inscriptions, [88J ; Lakes,
[8J; ediclnes for, [8, 8];
Money o', fl]; Mountain
ranges of, £•) ; lteasporta
mr, [11; Population of, [88-
Ij; Hlv — "
Sftnon * m ' *"»
Anat.ua Cou.ro r, 18.
Anaxarba or Ana v aria.
187, 188. *
Andar, M.
AxrJLru Task, 88.
Digitized by
Google
386
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Andabin (k.), 974.
Andarin Ova Plain , 971, 974.
Amoaval, 164.
AkdiHlo, 196, 876.
Andraxi, 196.
Andraki Su It., 196.
Aketueg, 888.
ANGORA 1 (▼. f.), 18, 10,
18, 14, 16, 17. 19, 89, 64,
66 .
Population : T. 18,000;
Ar. 10,000 ; O. 1600 ; Jews,
Ac., 600 ; Total, 30,000.
Consulate i Consul, H. A.
Cumber batch, Kt*q. ; Vice-
Consul. Tom Newton, Esq.
Hotels : II. Angara
(Greek) ; H. HoUer (Ger-
man), both fair; P. 20-30
per diem.
Railway: To Eski-ebehr
and Hai'lar Pasha. The
journey to Constantinople
takes 2 days, and is broken
at Eskl-sbehr.
Conveyances: Carriaaes ,
P. 60 per diem; Araoas,
P. 30; Pack animals, P.
10-16.
Post: Imperial Ottoman.
Bank : Imperial Ottoman.
Dootors : Stavraki ; Nico-
laki.
Anuugh, 937.
Aki, 919, 917, 990.
Amkhitk, 969.
Antalia, 199.
Antiuakiii, 866.
Aktiogh, 161, 171, 199, 988,
989.
Amti paros, 864.
Atmpitiuxus, 196, 171.
Amtissa, 864.
Anti-Taurus Range , 967, 979.
Apbanto, 873.
Apkanto Plain, 371.
AroLAKKiA, 378.
Apolloma, 378.
Afpa, 106, 104.
Station : Aidln • Dlneir
Rly.
A ran k, 946.
Auab-dua, 996.
Arab-xuren, 144.
Akab-hissar, 116, 117.
Arabja Krupri, 47.
Araskir f (x.), 969, 966.
Aeablab, 67.
Arablu, 164, 166.
Arab-sbip, 86.
Arach (k.), 6.
Arack Su £L, 6.
Arak, 999.
Araxjk, 997.
Aram Chai R., 146.
Ararat Ml., 994, 999, 997.
Araxes R., 917, 999, 997, 999,
980, 981.
Archao, 986.
Arckag Lake, 980, 886.
Ardauan, 819, 916, 981.
Ardal, 880.
Ardaruoh. 919*
Ardgov, 948.
Ardia, 986.
Akdistar, 849.
Ardus, 961.
Ardosa, 909.
Ardosa KhIk, 909.
Ardoot, 919, 816.
Arbza, 998.
Aroa, 971.
Argaeus ML, 68, 86, 87, 60,
61, 168, 167, 170, 967.
Abobdca, 817.
AROHAMAf (8.), 866 .
ARQHANA MaDRN,+ (X. pA
966.
Argibh, 981, 984, 986.
Argos Plain, 876.
ARIKBABHI, 90
Station: Tireh and Ode-
mlsb Branch line S. k A.
Uly.
Arikh, 66.
Arji, 988.
Arkk-vark, 944.
Arkhipou, 878.
Arikkar, 886.
Arxhut KhIn (n.), 188.
Arki, Island qf, 170.
Armavir, 897, 917.
Arm rxian Monas rRRiu, 960.
Armota, 889.
Arkis, 989.
Aunitha, 873.
Abosh, 848.
Arpa Chai R„ 816, 917, 990.
Arpajix, 46.
Arpaj KuIn, 179.
AbpaOt, 966.
Arpbrt, 941.
Aura Kkui, 67.
Abba, 199.
Arspkxk, 819.
Arslan Kata. 140, 141.
Arslan lab, 186.
Arslanu, 67.
Arslanli Ova Plain, 976.
Artlanli Bel, 976.
Arslan Tash,$ 961.
Arslan Tbpr, 966.
Absvunik, 969.
Art a Mm, 878.
Artaxata, 999.
Artik Ova Plain, 86, 49.
Art one, 814, 919t
Arun, 886.
Arzab, 988, 996.
Arzrn, 948.
Asafor Dert, 910.
Asarli Kata, 19.
Asforos •'IBB, 910.
Abba Kalbr, 46.
Ash A a hi Kiost, 964.
A8UAK M RID AN, 968.
Ashixta, 969.
Ashik-oqhlc Kxui, 89,
Asu-KALBH.t 804, 968.
Asbkbar, 47.
Ashkkar Plain, 48.
Asrkatzabka, 898.
Ashodrh (n.), 961.
Asi, 946.
Asin Dtre, 809.
Asnr Kalksi, 119.
▲skara, 886.
Askiar You, 898.
Askut Dagk ML, 896.
Aslan Kxui, 17.
Asxrr, 988, 930.
Aspesia PlaLau, 864.
A8PINZA, 991.
Aspuzu, 966.
Assakaiiba Fortress, 161.
Assam. 119.
Assar Kalxk, 16.
Assar Kalrsi, 146.
Assar Kbui, 179, 91, 109.
Assarlar, 69.
Assaruk, 119, 117.
Assi Yuzoat (x.), 90.
Astarabad, 898.
Astkju, 836.
A8TE0PALIA (x.). 868.
Population : G. 2600.
Astypalara, 866.
Atairo Ml., 870, 871.
ATOHX or AKCHX (k.), 109.
Station : Aidin - Dwxir
Rly.
Atksb, 988.
A that ML, 846, 847, 849, 868.
Atina f (x.), 4.
Atkasun, 184.
Attakh, 946.
Avak-vank, 961.
Avanos (n.), 66.
Avars, 988, 984.
Avian Geul Lake, 199.
Avrarz, 949.
Avshar Kbui, 974.
Avaunt, 961.
Atas, 190.
Digitized by
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
387
A iir f ^ i6 * l7% I71 »
-dyoM Bd Ml ^ Iff.
Atabk Kaleji, 179.
Ayasxaxd or Atasxat (bl),
67.
Ata*>l6k, 97, 99, 94, 109,
107.
Ata Tape, 49.
Ayabos. 999.
Ataz Ijt, 196, 141, 14ff.
.dyer j?el. 970.
Akajik, 100.
Azamecb, 190.
Axaxi, ff9.
Azapu, *77.
Lake, 976.
Aeaz. *67.
Azkkii, 999.
+ <*•). MO, 007, 00,
107, 100, 000, 001, SU.
Station : Smyrna • Aldln
Rlj.
Azkur. 991.
Azokt, 91*.
Baazaxi, 996, in.
Baba Bumu , 69.
Babaekichek Ml., 991.
Baba Dagk ML, 109, 119, 119,
190.
Babadol, 177.
Baba Kalrsi, 69.
BAbil, 907, 309.
Babylox, 907-919.
Badela, 919.
Baden lu, 194.
Bapi. 116.
Baf. Sea of, 111, Uff.
Baps. 949.
Bapba + (*.), 11, 99.
Bagdad t Wady, volley, 999 .
Baokchb(k.X 975,
Bagkck* DertH, 199. 199.
Bagkefu Pass, 879, 879.
Bogheke Su JL, rti,
Minins, mimim.
Population: A boot 65,000.
Coasolato: Consul-Gene-
ral, OoL E. Mock tar.
Hotol t A & Europe.
Bt a a m o rs : Oman Ob. ,
M. and T. 8. If. 00 . ; each
niBE t oteamer once * week
to Baste, Rap. 80 .
Tramway : To KaztmhL
OoiPtyEBCss : (hrriage*
can be hired to plett Baby
Jon.
Bank : Baghdad and Lon-
don Banking Association.
Baghdadi eh, 914.
lUontx, 949.
Baorluja Boohaz, 901.
Bagirsak Deresi, 91, 46.
Bahibka, 991.
Bahjuk-abad, 949.
■awataa*
Population : T. 860 #
Ar. 1500. Total 10,000.
Baimdib (x.), 6, 1*.
B AIHDtR f (k. r .), .0,
Railway! One train dally
to and from Smyrna and to
and from Odemtsb.
Baindir 8* R., 6, 19.
Baisamicr (»,). 00, 07, 00.
Baitat, 196.
Bajoah, 999.
Bakiiarakr. 169.
Bakhtiari MU., 990.
Bakib, 99.
Bakir Ckai B., 61, 99.
Bakir Dagk ML, 97*.
Bakixbix. 949.
Baeshuh, 141.
Bak-tabh, 170.
Baku, 909.
BAKOBAf(K.X 999, 904.
Balabaklc, 190.
Bala Bumu. 64.
BALAOHIX, 100, 101, 197,
110 .
Station : Smyrna- Aldln
Rly. Branch to Sokla.
Bala -him am, 17.
Balak, 949.
Balakkor Valley, 909.
BalanOt, 41.
Balanik Dere, 199.
Balaboax, 991.
Balat, 99.
BaUwat, 999.
Balia (h.), 61.
Baliam-bou (m.X 91, 99.
EAimaW f (r. p.), 99,
61, 69.
Population : T. 17,000 ;
Ar. 9000 j Q. 1990. Total,
90,000.
Bauklata, 109.
Bau-orerr, 990.
Baueria, 90.
Bauik-himar, 17, 146.
Balkk Dagk ML, 979.
Balx» Kalkm, 999.
Bal-kiz Keoi, 179, 179, 174.
BaUtoil Ckai R., 99.
Baluk Dere, 916.
Baloe Koydxji, 17, 11
Baluldi Ckai R., 999, 994, 996.
Baluldi Otul lake, 990.
Bambiz, 949.
Banat Hueeux, 904.
Sana* ckai A., 190, 191.
Banos Ova Main, 190.
Bandamir R., 999.
BANDAR ABBAS, 941.
Steamers: British India
& y. Co. Weekly to Ka-
rachi and Rimbay. Weekly
to Permian Golf Porta and
Basra. Fares to London:
let claas, £47 10«. : 2nd,
£35.
Landinf : Boat hire, la.
each person.
Band-i-Kir, 999.
Baxdolab. 909, 999.
Bap, 999.
Bar, 919.
Barabam, 948.
Baradoet Valley, 998.
Barandtu Plain, 999.
Bardarash, 990.
Bardakcri, 144.
Bardaku, 46.
Bardox, 919, 916.
Bariaru. 79.
Barkoxar, 977.
Barla (x.\ 191.
Baropar, 899.
Barsak Yailam, 199.
Barsama, 90.
Barsax, 908.
Bartek Dere, 99.
BARTAN f (e.), 1.
Steamers :
Every Friday to Eregli and
GooetanUnuple.
Barton Su R., 1,
Basar, 948.
Basrabrixa, 998.
Bash-ararax, 917.
Basr-Criptuk. 46, 947.
BASR-DmtvfsM, 976.
Basr-Korbx, 140.
Basr-Garxi. 990.
Bash-Kala f (e.X 997, 899.
“ “ ” fl#
Digitized by
Google
388
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Bashkekd, til.
Bash Kkui, M3, 60, 160, 117,
Stt, M7.
Bath-Keux Chat R., lit.
Bash-KhAn, 136, lit.
BaSII-KoNUSII, 171.
BtSIILAX, 49.
Bash Qcul Lake, 176.
Bashuakji, 166.
Babuika, 106.
Basua-KhInkh, 79.
BASRA? (v.), 114, 811, 818,
816,816.
Population: 40,000.
Consulate : Consul, Capt.
Q. F. Chenevlx-Trench.
Steamers : (i.) Local. To
and from Baghdad, the
E. and T. S. W. Co , ami
Oman On. Once a week each
way. Fare, Uup. 30. (11.)
Ocean. British India S. jV.
t.o. Weekly to Persian G ulf
Porta, Karaoi.t, and Bombay.
Four weekly to Mombasa
and Zauztbar. Fares to
ljoudon, 1st, £63 ; 2nd,
' £38 13a. 4d.
Babki, 18.
Baht, 141.
Bahtiua, 874.
Butman Su 1L, 144, 146, 801.
BAT&K, 114, 1, 4, 119, m.
Population: 20,000.
Consulate : Consul, P. W.
J. Stevens, Esq.
Passports: Russian and
Turkish passports should lie
obtained through the British
Consulate.
Hotel : II. dc France,
Steamers : (1.) Aust. -
Hung. lAoyd. Every Wed. to
Constantinople and interme-
diate ports. (II.) Hussian.
Every Wed. to Constanti-
nople and Intermediate ports.
Every week to 0 lessa. (til.)
Funhellenic. Fortn. Wed.
to Constat •tiuople and inter-
mediate ports. (tv.) Paquet
ct i. it. Fortn. to Sams&u
and Constantinople.
Railway: To Tiflls and
Baku.
Bath., 146.
Ballo (m.), 166.
Baulus, 86, 44.
Baukui, 146.
Baviak, 196.
Bayasn Su R. t 117.
BAVOinf (sO.114, 116, 117,
186, 180, 148.
BAYK&w-AqHA, 180.
Bazaugiah Yaila, 116.
Bazaujik (k.), 176, 187.
Bazabjik (n.), 16, 174, 67.
Bazakji Kalbsi, 176, 176.
Bazar Kkui, 166.
Has tan Fau, 806, 818.
Bazikoa, 888.
Bazmuuiax, 816.
Bazust, 880.
Bkdku Bby. 119, 111.
B&tra Fau, 119.
Rkgil, 140.
Bkiiuahan, 881.
Bkiiistux, 817, sculpture at,
887.
BtkiFun Bangs , 817.
Bkilak (k. p.), 888.
Bkilan Pass, 191, 178.
Bhnam. 81.
Iliti-oVA, 84.
Bcirutje Bel Past, 161.
Beirut Dagh Ml., 168, 871.
Bkjaz, 17.
Ukkiiram, 64, 66, 66.
Brxjilxk, 108.
Bkktik, 161.
Bklai*, 806.
Bm. Bunak, 176.
IlKMiKAS. 161, 161.
Itelik B., 891, 897.
Uki.-Knavkk, 79, 89.
Bkmuij, 889, 890.
Bkmi^us, 179.
Bende Mahi B., 880, 181.
Beni Hindawin Jit., 811.
Bknikaza, 164.
Bkkamui.la Kit An, 187, 189.
llKUAii. 148, 844.
Bkukkktij Madkn, 167.
Bxkgama, 86-88, 61.
Bergama Chai R ., 86.
Bbuoas, 64.
Bxkj, 140.
Bxkki, 91.
Bervar Valley , 119.
Bisk Akokl, 914.
BKSH-KAntsn-xuYUK, 136.
Besh-Kiusse, 108.
Besh-parmak Dagh HI., 106,
110, 116, 177.
Betika Bay, 69.
Bisnr f (x.), 177.
Belli Chai K., 168.
Bicuvuk Auablab, 876, 887.
Bkiiyuk-hunah, 168.
BkuyOx Bun ah bash i, 67.
BkuyOk-dklik, 160.
Bxuyuk K a baja, 147.
BkuyOx Kalxh, 81.
BeuyUk Aayaqtn Berest R.,
Bxuyuk Maghara, 66.
BkuyOx Yapalak, 861.
BkuyOx Yoghlu, 80, 81.
Bkyat (x.), 146.
Beyas Su R., 161.
Hky-baxIu f (x. r.), 14, 6.
Bxyjik. 68.
Bky Kkui, 186, 67, 184, 186,
140.
BKYL(-AmtEi>, 816.
Bkyli-bagii, 10.
Bkyuk Axhuu, 60.
BEYLIX KETJPRI, 17, 66.
Station: Anatolian Rty.
RXY-OVASt,f 81, 10.
Bsy-skkhb (k.), 164, 141, 166.
Bcyshehr Lake, 164, 148, 141,
161 .
Bcyshehr Su 11., 166.
Bkzabdk, 146.
Biczma Kkui, 180.
Biciibr, 66.
buxui, 47.
BILEJIK 2 (x. r.), 16.
Hotel : U. de V Europe.
Station : Anatolian lily.
Bin a it, 314.
Itinhoa thigh ML, 163, 170,
171, 178.
Bila Kkupui (x.), 140, 138.
Bikejik + (x. p.). WO, 168,
887, 188, 889.
Bin Biu Kilissk, 168.
Binokul, 864.
Biu-geal Dagh ML, 141, 141,
847.
Bi PM, 83.
Bhiq am l, 868.
Biicgk (n.), 91.
Bibs Nimuud, 908, 809, 910.
Bismil. 844, 846.
Bisuuxu, 817.
Brrus + (v.), 144, 186, 140,
848.
BiUit Chai R„ 186.
BiUis Su R., MS, M4, 146,
Bogadicii, 68.
Bogdanovka, m.
Booqaz-hissak Kalxh, 46.
B0GHAZ KAHYKH, 16.
Station : Man lea - Soma
Line.
Bogiiaz Kkui, M, 10, 11, 11,
88, 88, 84, 149, 164.
Boohazlayan f (x.), 86, 87.
Bog t* as Maden, 167.
Boghae, the Great, Strait, 889,
Boghas Su R„ 161, 166.
Booiilax, 948, Ml.
Digitized by
Google
Boktan Su R., 889, Ml, MS,
SOI.
Boiavad+(k>7, 11, IS.
Boidemhr, M.
Bolatij, 10S.
Botam Su /?.. 158 .
r.). 5,8,0,14, 15,
Population : T. 7200;
Ar. 600.
BbK Dap* J it., 8.
/Wi An /?, 5, 8.
BOUVADIN (k.% 188.
Population : T. 6500 .
B°« + («.). 184, 188, 185.
Borazjux. 888.
Borchka. 814.
Borjom, 881, 888.
Boi lu Dagk lit., 147, 150.
Bosiiat, 848.
BoeooLA, 157.
Boot aw Krui, 9.
Bootak-ou Kkui, 178.
Bostanjik Su R., 178.
Boya Hara-gedik Pais, M7.
tiOYALAR, 177.
IkiTAU, 170.
Bozaxti KnJLw.f 100, 187.
Bos Burun, 178.
Boz-buruk Kahtbh, 158.
Bom Book ML, 17, 80, 01, 110,
189.181.
Boz Kutuk, 878.
Boskieff Dagk Mt n 817.
Boz Turn. 8.
Boztuk, 18.
Brakmi, 801.
Hraotik, 851.
BB^BAt (v. r.). 18, 57, 58,
80.
Consnlmt* i Vice-Consul,
IL Wwler, Xm|.
Hotels : H. Bellevue ; H.
d* Anatolic, good and clean ;
10-11 franco per diem.
Railway : 7Vai*i twice a
day to and from Modanla.
CoaToyaaeoa : Carriage*
and Morses for hire.
Bank : Imperial Ottoman,
Buba Dagk ML, 188.
Budak Ota Plain, 188, 188,
BUDrGk f (.1 11% in.
117, ISO, 171, SMlM.no-
Nn, 118; Castle of St.
Peter, 114.
Steamers: Pantaloon Co,
Weekly on passage from
Smyrna to If ersina and vice
versd .
BudrOm Bap, 881.
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
889
BUJA, 08.
Bailway : 6 trains daily
to and from Smyrna.
Bcoiirla, 814.
Bimak (w ), 158, 178.
rtujak Main, 158.
BUJALI, 104, 105.
Station: A id in - Dinctr
Rly.— for Coluesae.
Buladaw f (k.), 108, 91, 108.
Bulaxik Kaxa, 881.
Bulanik Plain, 848.
Buldoe f (s. p X 150, 158.
Buldur Ceu l Lake, 150, 180,
140.
^Bagk Ml., 117, 158,
Bcloab Madkx, 180.
Bulukan BiU, 888.
Btlumia, 158.
BULOUKLUK, 165.
Bunar-baski Stream, 887.
Bunab-rashi, 147, 88, 87, 78,
186.
Bunar-bastlr Spring, 151.
Bundok, 871.
Burak, M7.
Burinna or Hippocrates, Foun-
tain qf, 865.
BOlUfABAT (..), 7®, 79.
Railway : 1 1 trains daily
to and from 8mynuu
Puma Su 815.
Burwus KhIk, 848, 885.
Burt a la, 808.
Burojird, 888.
Burux-Krrshla, 88.
Buroxjik, 88, 88.
BTJBHIRE.* 888.
Consulate : Omsul-Ceno-
ral, I A -Col. Talbot, C.I.K. ;
Vice-consul, J. C. Uaskln,
E«q.
Steamers: British India
S. a. CO. Weekly to Per-
sian Gulf Ports, Karachi,
and Bombay. Weekly to
Ba-ra. Four weekly to
Aden, Mombasa, and Zan-
zibar. • Fares io London:
1st dam, £61 6a. ; 2nd,
£37 10a.
Landing : Boat hire, Rnp.
1 each perton ; if only ooe
person, Hop. ft for tbe boat.
■aloe and Hot s ee always
procurable.
Bza'a, 888.
0.
Capo Cavalier e, 171, 177.
Cara vaw Bridge Station, 88.
Cavaliers Port, 878.
ISLAND
171.
U. 7000.
'1) Pantaloon
0>. Weekly frrnn and to
8niyma and Merslns, calling
at Intermediate porta.
CkabOkckur Plain, M7.
Charakz, 811.
CnADILAR, 6.
Chagdaris Su B., 804.
Ckagmen VaUcg, 858.
Chaikiadax Fort, 888.
Ciial 188, 148.
ClIAIRRAOH, 158.
Ciiai Kxni. 10.
Ciiair Kntx, 11
Chakal Krui, 88, 180.
Chaeal KhJLx, 88.
Charmak. 86.
CtlAKKTTX, 840.
Ckahtm M ram, 150.
Ckal Dagk Mi 80, 07, 180.
Ckal Dere, 46.
Chaldir JxUce, 817, 881.
Chaloax. 858.
Chal Krui. 185.
Ckaltd Ckai /?., 854.
Cham Bel Mt., 119.
Cham Bunar Spring , 868.
Cham Krui. 181.
Ckamli Dagk ML, 41, 48.
Chamsix, 50.
Chaxar $axrsl 08.
Ckanderli, liulf of, 00.
Cxakdir, 151, 155.
Ckandir Chat H., 1M.
Chaxdir Kales i, 188.
CHAHOBA f (s.X 10, 9, 18,
Population : T. 12,006 j
Christian, 900.
Chanli, 111.
Cnaparu, 147.
Char Su R., 15.
CHARftOKIlUR, 948.
Ckarbukkur Plain, 848.
CHARD AN, 105. 48.
Stalidn : Aidtn - Dtnelr ,
Rly.
oabtelorIzo
.178.108,
( V .
Steamers :
Digitized by L^ooQLe
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Char dak Pass, 106.
Chardaklu Bel Past, 864, £63.
ChardaJdu Su R., £64.
Ciiaudeuax, £88.
Chaue-Serai, 148.
Chai k R., 6.
ClIAUKATAN MONASTERY, 837*
Cuaulkyik, 177.
CHARM ALU, £17.
Chakmklik, £90.
ClIARSlIANBA t (k.), 46.
Charshenbe Su R. t 166.
CUAKSIfl-MAHURI, £09.
Chat, 169, £££.
OHATAL, 90.
Station : Tlreh and Ode-
mi sh Branch line. S. and A.
Rly.
Chatal Tepe Ml., 9.
Chatkuan, £67.
Chatlu, 871.
Chavdiu Hussar, 69.
Chavan Kkui, £0.
Chechapan R., 304.
Checiikl Minare. 387.
Chekerek Jrmak R. t £7, 31, 34,
36.
ClIKKIRGEH, 58.
Cueltik.ii Kkiji, 68.
Ciikluk or Jai.uk, £46.
ClfKMCIIBMAL.f 306.
Chkkgkl, 40.
Cheiigel Bel Past, ££7.
CtiKxaiK, 174.
Chkukkli. 38, 83.
CiiKUKKauf (k. p.), 18.
Ciikukks Kkui, 107, 141. ,
Chkhmuk, £65. ,
OHIGLI, 79,
Station : Smyrna - Ala -
Sbehr Rly.
Chiqui Kalui, 63.
Chikin Ova Plain, 163.
Chil Aqha, £93.
Ciiilkam, £30.
ClilMUSIIGKZKK t (*.), £68.
China Ckai R„ 116.
Chios, Island or, 366-358,
170, 861 : see Khio.
OHIPLAK, 63, 90.
Station: Tlreh and Ode-
roieh branch Hue, SI and A.
Rly.
Chirmiki, 380.
Chit, £64.
OHIVRIL, 106, 181, 186.
Terminus of branch line,
Aidin-Dlnelr Rly.
mm , in ,
I 186, £74, 876.
Cnidus, Ruins or, 117, 171#
Colon n a Caps, 369.
OORDELIO, 79.
^ion .* Smyrna • Ala •
Sbehr Rly.
Cos 171.
Cragut Ml., 171.
Crio Cape, 171.
Ctesiphon, 804, 318.
Cteus, Tone or, 338.
OHE8HKE X (k.), 109, 170.
8teamera : (I.) Pantaloon
(b. Fortn. to and from
Smyrna and Rhodes. (II.)
MahtQte. Fortn. to and
from Smyrna.
Cheshmk Keupri, 38, 64.
CHEVIKMK orCHAURMA, £81.
Chevlik (k.), £43, £47.
Ciiiana, 3££.
Chibuk-abad (k.), 10.
Chibuk Boghaz Pass, 168.
Ckilmk Ova Plain, 10.
Chibuk Su R. , 10.
Chichiklkr, 164.
OHIFTE KHAN, 160. 108.
Station : Aidin - hinelr
Rly.
Chiptuk, 48, 66, 118, £67.
CmrtiT Kassara, 146,
CuraiL, 188,
CH0BAN-I8A. 88, 188.
Stai>on : Smyrna - Ala -
sbehr Rly.
Choban Kaya, 20.
Chodan Kkui, 9.
Ciioban Kkupki, £8 8.
Chobanlar (Thai R., 11.
Ciioban lu Tkkxk, £68.
Ciiokak, £71.
Chokak Su R.. 874.
Ciiok-ukuz Kkuprl Bridqk,
87.
CilOK-SKR, £11.
ClIOPKACHlK, 31.
Chora, 349.
Chobak f (k.) 176.
Chorda. £14.
Cuou-iuss a n, 145.
Chorja, 131.
Ciiokik, £47.
Ciiorosma, 809.
Chouuk Kaleu. 870.
Choruk Su R., 4, £03, £04, 803,
£09, £10, £11, 813, £14, £16.
Chorum f (k.), 81, 10, 18, 86
Chribtian Kkui, 98, 109.
Chucha, 828.
Chuku, £37.
ClIUKUUOENT, 149.
Chukub-hissar, 16.
Chukur Ova Plain, 187, 191,
874.
I Chukur Su R., 119.
Chul Ova Plain, 146, 147.
ClIULANCHULAM, 338.
Ciiumra, 167.
Chuhgbnis, £14.
Chubbkli, £16.
Churuk Su R„ 108, 104.
Cam an Oates, The, 191.
Da BazIr, 181, 188.
Dadai C%ai R^ 7, 9,
Daiiar. 823.
Dahl, £40.
Dala, £31.
Dalamak, 116.
Daluman Ckai R., 116, 1£1.
Dalian, 63.
Dauki, 833.
Daliki R., 338.
Dawaiza, 883.
Damalan, 176.
Damascus. £99, 311, 318.
Damatbia, 373.
Dana, 188, £39.
Danishmakli, 46.
Dapiinona, 366.
Dara, £98.
Dakabau, 189.
Dara Ykxi, £47.
DARDANELLES J (a.* 68,
67, 69, 346.
Consulate : Vice- Consul,
J. F. Russell, Esq. (British) |
F. Calvert, Esq. (United
States).
Steamers : All steamers
passing to and from Con-
stantinople call. Boat land-
ing P. 6 ; extra for luggage.
Post: Imperial Ottoman,
Austrian, Prenek, Russia n.
Dari, £40.
Daei Kepi. 68.
Dashoesh Detrend, 147.
Dashu-gbchid, 16.
Daaiit-i-Arzen, 334.
Digitized by i^oooie
S92
INDEX AND DIRECTORY,
Duuvaoh, SSI.
Ddxusa, 47.
Donkalat, 875.
Dunuk Task , The, 185.
DupuLam, 380.
DuuIn, 7.
Duriln Dagk ML, 0.
Duuduukao, 57.
Dubah, 897.
Duanus I3 oohaz Pass, 153,
158.
PuVARA, 169.
Duvkk, 188, 57.
Duzaoach, 181.
Duzjkii t (K.P.), 5.
E.
Ebib Gkul, 188.
Echmiadzin, 887, 817, 888.
Eciiklia, 887.
liDBMLI, 179.
EDREMIDt (*.), 66, 61, 69.
Steamers : (1.) Panraleon
Go. Fortn. to and from
Smyrna. (11.) Maksdxe.
Fortn. to and from Constan-
tinople and Smyrna.
Edrtnot dtai 1L, 58, 69.
Earn (n.), 848.
KoiMf (k.). 861, 858, 866.
Earnout f (k. p.), 161, 158,
166.
Egirdir Lake, 161, 146.
J tyri Dagk ML, 884.
EgrL Eu» Valley, 84, 86.
Eaui-anuz, 188.
Eoiu-Kkupbi Bbidgx, 860,
854.
Eiltamkata, 889.
Eibkt, 68.
Ekijik, 84, 86.
Lkijik R., 84.
Ekiboib, 816.
Ekizja, 890.
Ekukk, 861, 868, 868.
Ekrek R„ 869.
Mlaea, Gulf qf, 87.
Klbabui, 868.
Elkkofka, 889.
Elkbibas, 176.
Klbure ML , 817, ill.
Eloabun, 157.
El-Had^h, 806.
Kl-Uud R., 814.
El-Hathm, 897.
El-Ja'abiu, 897.
► l-Kata, 860.
El-Lkkata, 300.
El-M ushi.uk, 891.
El-Oghi.u, 876.
fcx-UzKiu, 314.
Alma Dagk Alt., 18, 88.
ELMAUf (a.), 188, 181, 886.
Elmali Dagk ML, 868.
Emabkn. 166, 167.
Elvend ML, 388.
Emiu, 809.
Emir Dagk Alt., 16, 188.
Emikohan, 49.
Emiu-iiibsaii, 145, 146.
Emu Kbui, 119.
Emiui.i Kbui, 11.
Emmet Sultan, 14.
Endklos, 369.
ENDXKBst (K.), 48, 46, 868.
Enderts Hu R., 48, 868.
Knhkukjwi Yaila, 874.
Enkoiiil, 166.
Enevmk, 148.
Enohil, 837, 841.
Enouui, 18 : see Axgoba.
Enguri Su R., 18, 19.
EPHE8U8 J (n.> 93, 107, 109,
Aitemeeium, 98; Gymna-
sium, 98 ; History, 94 ;
Mosque, 97; Odeum, 99;
Stadium, 100 ; Theatre, 99.
Hotel : Karpouta's, near
the Uly. Stat. Fair board
and lodging.
Railway; AyauAuk Sta-
tion, Aidln Railway. 6
trains daily from, and 4 to
Smyrna.
Horses : with English or
Turkish teddies; can be
ordered by telegram from
Smyrna to meet the train.
Guide : A local guile is
necessary for the ruins;
ti one from Smyrna are of
little use.
Epo* ML, 866.
Ekiiaa, 44.
Kkbil +(*.), 805,881, 888.
Kbdodu, 168.
BRBOLIf (k. r.), 158, 161,
166. 166. 184.
Population ; 10,000 (T., I
G., Ar.>
BRBOLIf (B), 1,0.
Population: T. 500} O.
1600. Total, 0600.
Bteamerit J falkht.
Every Thun, end 8*1. to
Constantly »pie. Every
Wed. to Iueboli, Sinope,
Suutailn, Ac. Every Frl. to
llartan.
Ekbjik, 888.
Ebbv Kauif (k.), 68.
Eubso, 864.
Eriskat Su &., 885.
BRIYAN. 888, 817, 889.
Population: 16,000, chiefly
Ar.
Hotels : H. de France,
best. H. de Ltmdret. A
bed may also be had at the
Club Route, where the meals
and wines are good.
Conveyances : A phaeton
Re. 4-5 for the day.
Ehiza, 180.
Ekkklkt, 87.
Eukkmkk, 877.
Erkenee R., 878*
EuLANaaoH, 88.
Eumaniz. 46.
Ekmknkk f (k.), 176, 188,
180.
Ermenek Su R„ 170.
Kmovandasiiat, 817.
Eubib, SIS, 818, 814.
Erytkrae, Gulf qf, 109, 179.
BRZBR&Kl (y. fA 904,
806, 808, 806, 807, 809, 911,
814, 816, 818, 888, 880, SSI,
888.847,848, 868, 868,864.
Population : T. 30,000 ;
Ar. 10.000; J. 8000; other,
600. Total, 43,600.
Consulate: Cbnsul, R. W.
Graves, Esq. (/or Kur-
distan').
ERZINOAN + Ca.), 849, 904,
808, 847, 846, 860, 888, 864,
Population s 16,100, T.
and Ar.
Ersingan Plain, 809.
Ebavakhau, 80.
Eshkk t* lias, 888, 888.
Eshen Ckai R., 187.
Esuata, 840.
Eski A dali a, 178.
Eski Amdaval, 104.
Eski AzizIbu, 100.
Eski Rkuoama, 01.
Eski Focha, 89.
Ebki-iii8bab, 108, 115, 5, 119,
117,189.
Eski Lucan, 177.
{lski-Mobul, 301.
Digitized by
Google
INF EX AKD DIRECTORY,
393
Eski-Samscn, 3.
B8KISHEHH t (a. r.Y 956,
146, 959, 971.
Population : 30.000.
Hotel : International.
Railway: One train dolly
to Haidar Paaba, and one to
Angora.
Oonvayaaoea : Arabaa,
and hor ea can he hired.
EtKi-axi* 1*0111, 64.
Khki RtambC l, 69.
Ksk’.tsor, 913.
Eokaamj, 943.
Xu pkrates /?., 993, 994, 944,
M9, 951, 953, 955, 956,959,
961 965, 967, 971, 979, 976.
960. 989. 990, 997, 996, 300.
907. 310, 319, 316, 311
Eorkn. 199.
Kurkn Kboi, 59, 101
Klrrr-8iirhr Kalbh, 907.
Eurhk. 919.
Eoti’k, 97, 30, 31, 40, 190.
Evrrrk (k.), 53, 59, 971
Evjilar, 69, 99, 06, 69.
Fiutao, 1.
Filiyas Chai R., |.
FIlo. 196.
Fixkk. 945.
FnTRKA(K.), 195, 199.
Steamera : Panialeon Ob.
Weekly to and (him Smyrna
and Meralna.
Fineka Way, 171,
Fixux, 49.
Fima i, 940.
Firal Dagk Ml ., 969.
Firuz-abad, 333.
Fla, 949, 947.
Fbaxdux, 169.
Fhihrk, 94.
Fislik, 914,
Fociia, Kaici, 96, 69.
FocHA.f Ykri (k.), 69.
Forakh, 919.
Fuxduk, 945, 971.
Fukduxu, 167.
Forirji, 957.
Furxab, 196.
Furxus, 970.
XYJHJKR, 105.
Station : Aldln - Dtoelr
Uly.
Evkrrr, 99.
Ezirr f (k.), 67.
F.
Fbhmin, valley, 999.
Falkos, 906.
Amur Lake, 994.
Farash, 51 974.
FAasiLRR, 159.
Frki (x.X 969, 974.
Fkloja, 900.
FRRAKnnr, 979, 54, 974.
Frrrnr, 166.
AkrAod Iktgh ML, 40.
FeaiuruR, 946.
Frrtrr (x.), 164.
Fbtrek Chat R., 99.
Fnw (».), 41
Fio, 969.
Fiji Burma, 966.
Filfil, 946.
I °*
Gatchixa, 991.
Gairb Kitlx, 50 .
GALTTnA, 940 .
Gameepi Past, 991
Gakdom Kal, 990.
GANOACimr, 939.
Garara, 919 .
Garrab, 945.
Gardan-i-Rasan Ml., 339.
Garxlan-i-Rukh Ml., 990.
Gardan-L terra ML, 990.
Garotla, 315.
Garoar, 990.
Garmasiab R., 397.
Garmi-Vaxk, 994.
Garni Chai It., 999.
Garni Valley, 996.
Garwi, 951 .
Gaya lax, 390.
Oavra, 47 .
GayrexjoR, 950.
Gayrhud, 91.
Qawer Plain, 996.
Gaz, 940.
Gdvtz, 994.
Grrbx or Garajt, 971, 976.
Gedrx, 45.
Gxntz f (R.r.% 60, 69.
Cedis Chai Valley, 60, 76.
Gejir, 916.
Grtra, 116, 109, 116.
Gw vim, 19, 11
Grlau, 954.
GKV.ARIIR, 999.
GeUUngen Ova JHain, 91.
G ruck do*, 159.
Grlyrrr, loo.
Celia Verdi Heights, 916.
Grmrrrk (x.), 96, 56.
Gkmajuk. 951
Gkmix, 49.
Grxku, 141
Grrryrz, 91.
Gkxizik, 51
Gkxkam, 979.
GenOk Su R^ 11
Grooavrr, 944.
Grrkdrh f (r. r.), 1 11, 11
Gkrrmr, 51
Grrorr, 999.
Gerinis Chai R., lit, lit.
Grrmav, 945.
GermUi Chai R* 45.
Grrmir, 50, 61 960.
Gsrrak Kuh ML, 991
Grrumbr, 991
Grurrr, 196.
Grurrkyirax, 966.
G ROARK, 116. '
Grok- arad, 117.
Grok Bosk, IN, 177.
Geuk Buneur Spring, 151.
Grukcur Edtvk. 141
Geuk hmak R., 7, 1 U.
GKOK-Krtimm. 977*
Geuksis Su 11
X *71 M7, 961
906, 971.
Geuk Su R., 11 177, 961 961
961971,971977.
Grok Term, 961 991
OROL-BAatn. 191
Grul-hirbar (w.\ 51 111*
Gkouvk, 161
Grume, 191
Gatm am, 61
Gromrm, 971
GROKRATfR, 961
Gkovb (x.% 91 91 91
Grtxrk, 191.
Groxrk, 11
Gkokrk, 147.
GROMouraa, 911
GbokOk. 11
*
Digitized by
Google
394
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Geunuk Lake, 876.
Geunuk Plain, 877.
Gburaxdabh, Ml.
Geurdeuk Chai R., 64.
Gburzap, 868.
Gbimok, 48.
Geuv Dtrt, 874.
Gbuvkrjixu, 118, 116.
Geuv Runar Spring, 876.
Cctu Bel, 878.
Gbuz Tki*b, 79.
Gbvmbk, 864.
Ubyiklak, 106.
Gkyikli,63.
Get Bel, 878, 64, 873, 874.
GE2KXNE, 190.
Guafau Khan, 388.
Ghalifan Su Ji., 381.
Ohara Valley, MO.
Giiauib, 847.
Giiarzit, 836.
Ohatir Su R., 840.
Gha2ihi, 146.
Giikna Kiian, 846.
Ghbuadkii, 383.
Ghbudkk>K atari, 31.
Ghkrskh f (n.), 11.
Ghent Chai R., 180.
Giiiui, 843.
Giaour I High ML, 878, 171,
863, 876. 876, 889.
Giaouu Eurkn, 130, 171.
Giaouu Gkul, 876.
Giaouu Kalkbi, 19.
GIAOUR KEUI, 80, 109.
Station : Smyrna • Ala -
sbehr Rly.
Gigerchik Dagh ML, 819.
Gijik, 176.
Gilserda Dagh ML, 804.
Giova, 117.
Girdamatni R., 881.
Girdashir, 806.
Qirgen Su R., 137, 869.
Girmk, 168.
Gizvao, 836.
Goim-Bulatak, 830.
Gogur thigh ML, 306.
Goioa, 848.
Gokcha Lake, 889.
Gokcha Valley, 888.
GoxdInb, 148, 161.
Goki, 170.
G0VJELI, 108, 104, 107.
Station : Ai Jiu - Dineir
Ely. — for Laodioea.
Hotel ; At the Station,
fair.
Gop (k.), 831, 843.
Goudblbz, 166.
Gorbh, 169.
Gout, 318, 386.
Govddn, 47.
Goynuk, 66.
GuBsasiN, 889.
Gudar Shuran, 341.
Guublumin, 157.
Gukbrk-abad, 840.
Gukui.lu, 836.
Gubutlkk, 33.
Guladan, 340.
Gulabhkird, 341.
GOl-bagchk, 109.
Gulkk, 386.
Oulck Boghat Pan, 160. 198.
Gulrk Boohaz Station, 161,
166, 167, 186.
Gulen Ova Plain, 888.
Guljkzin, 838.
Guljuk, 168.
Guln-auad, 348.
Gulvau, 864.
Gumknxk (n.), 47.
OUMXfSH-KHANEHlft t'l.
*03. *07, *53.
Khin : Good.
Gihnnsh- Khuneh Su R„ 803.
Giimuth-Cluii R., 116.
i.ihuu*h Su It., 31.
Gukdkicno, 843.
Gundbuvan, 835, 838.
Guxduk, 840.
GOnbii, 176.
Gunio Kalsh, M7.
Gunig Su R., M7.
Gukib, 187, 188.
GtiniitH Dagh ML, 17.
GuuArAHAK, 846.
G0rdiz + (a.), 86, 180.
Guroab, 840.
Gurgbnu (b.), 868, 864.
Gurgenit Su R., 863, 864.
Gurgi Boghas Pats, 818.
Guroi Kalbh, 166.
Guuiamu, 3M.
gurg6r, 90.
Station: Ttrch and Ode-
miah Branch liue. S. and A.
Rlv.
Guroujbli, 189.
Gurout, 836.
Gurlashxx, 844.
Gurumzkii, 874.
Gurun f (a ), 860, 861, 871,
873.
Gurushina, 386.
Guboub Kilissk, 44,
Guvrkkji, 349.
Gdsel Dert, 836, 846.
GOzbl-hxbsar, 101, 88, 188,
887.
Guz-br, 146.
H.
Habashia, 836.
Habobhir, 898.
Hack Bel Pau, 176, 887, 878.
Hachlu, 831.
Haditha, 899.
Uafar Canal, 815, 888.
Hal 314.
Hai kl-Wabit, 314.
Hail e* Sultan ML, 888, 888.
Haidar, 59.
Haidar-baoh, 888.
Haidar Boghas 1*0*9, 888.
Haidar kb Sultan, 88.
IIaidah Kom, 888..
Haidar Su R., 849.
IIaik , 816.
Haika-vaxk, 837.
Hairamli, 190.
Haioali Su R., 88.
Hajan, 146.
H 873* ***' 187 ’ 1671
Hajin-Oohlu. 861, 868.
llajin Su R,, 869.
Hajji-abad, 838.
Hajji Abba a or Ovasi, 6, 18.
Hajji-agiia, 816.
Hajji Baba ML, 167.
Hajji Bkktash (n.), 66, 68.
Hajji Bel, 876.
Hajji Hamza (m. k.), 18.
Hajji Kkui, 18, 31, 88.
Hajjilar, 64, 79, 168, 188,
HAJJILI, 98.
Station : Tlreh and Oda-
mUh Branch line. 8. and A.
Rly.
Hajji Omari, 168,
Hajji Obmanu, 88.
Haku, 898.
Hakim KkIm f (m.), 864.
Halaxzou. Ml.
Halbb: see Alkppo, 888.
Halicaumabbus : set Bun-
mtu.
Digitized by
Google
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
395
Halifub, 899.
Ralir H ., 841.
Halka-BCsax, 77.
Halki, 108.
Hama Kabar, 888.
Hamadan, 888, 888, 888.
HamadIrii Kamaba, 46.
Hamaii, 898.
Hamam KiiIm, 888.
HamidIrh, 80.
Hamm am, 34, 17, 88, 86, 189,
897.
IIammam Ali, 807, 897, SOI.
Hammam Gbuzi, 18.
Hammam KhIv, 889.
Hamm am li, 18, 87, 89.
Hammam Su R., 19, 186, 847.
Hamsi Krui, 80S, 807.
Hamza Hajji, 16.
Hamzo-Chimam, 817.
Hancha Dere, 860.
Hakrfi Krui, 876.
Hanoasur, 841.
Haksa, 47.
Harbi, 893.
Haeekb, 887.
Harim, 889.
Harmala, 888.
Harram, 891.
Harras. 888.
Harmanjik (m.), 69.
HarCnaiiad, 886.
Habiikmirii, 809.
Habhin, 989.
llABn-SlRRK, 880.
Habsa (k.), 889.
HamA Keui, 168, 168, 169.
Habbam, 388.
Habbam Avdkr, 884.
Habbambedie, 864.
Rattan Bel Peat, 146.
Habbam Drtli, 876.
Habbak Chrlrbi, 864.
Rattan Dagk Ml., 168, 166.
Habbam Kalrh + (k.), 888,
816, 880.
Habbam Keif (m.), 846, 801.
Habsan Pasha Krui, 180.
Hatara, 846.
Hauz-i-Daeh, 848.
Hauz-i-Sultam, 841.
Hauz>i-Tabareuk, 848.
Havadrrik, 848.
Ravator Valle y, 888, 889.
Ha vram. 61.
Hawaji Said, 898.
Haz Krui, 944.
Haro (h.% 948.
HRtMi, 848,
Hbjbb, 168.
Hblam, 888.
i
Hrlal, 891.
Hrlub, 840.
Hemra Kalrh, 186.
Hemshim, 810.
Hrrami, 849.
IIrrasr, 881.
HXRBZYLZ, 101.
Station : Smyrna - Aldin
Rly.
IIrrdif, 860.
nRRBK (R.), 44, 88, 40, 46.
Hrrj, 941.
Hbrjctlu, 949.
Hrrtrf, 881.
Hrbbarrk, 917.
UlRRONDA, 111, 118.
Hillah f (8.). 807, 806, 810.
Himat-arad, 848.
llindiek Canal , 809, 819.
Himbk, 818.
Hiptario Ml ., 860.
IIlflBARLlK, 68.
Hit (m.), 889,800,818.
Hizia Bavlob, 881.
Hizir Her ib, 881.
Rotran Oeul Lake , 161, 147.
Hokotz-vamk Momabtrrt,
889.
Holmi, 177.
IloRLAMTA, 17.
IlORMOTA, 866 .
HOBOZ KST7I, 80.
Station : SmyrnB - Al*»
Bb«br Rly.
H0R8TJNLR, 108.
Station : Aidln - Dfnolr
Rly.
Hortum, 911.
Hobu-oshlab, 874.
Hobhmat, 848.
Hovdu Yailabi, 870,
Howar, 898.
Hulrmk, 849.
Hainan R., 886, 886.
HOmarlu, 60.
Hcrtata, 888.
Huboamvort Momabtrrt, 890.
Hubbeim-abad, 841.
Hubseim Bet KhIm, 849.
Hubbrim Kuk Clift 8bful-
cmrxb, 880.
Huttein Ooa Plain , 81.
IIuzm, 889.
IOARIA, 170.
IcnjR Kaba-hibbab, 146.
Ibeahim-abad, 888.
iRRAnni Khamji, 804.
Id, 919, 911.
U 8 m ft ., 919.
Ida Ml ^ 68, 09, 868.
Irromta, 111.
Iflatum Bubar, 149.
Iodir, 887, 916, 817, 888,896.
Jlanli Dagk Mt ., 864.
Ikhlara, 168, 169.
Ilam Kalrh, 191, 876.
Ilanab (m.), 179.
Ilberr, 196.
Ilr Mebjid, 146.
Ildiz, 68.
Ilri, 147.
ILROIA. 117.
Ilohib t (R. r.), 188, 146, 149.
Hi Chat R ., 61.
Ilua (mA 904, 90, 90, 100,
146,849.
Jltfo Su R., 167.
Ilijah, 87.
iLUAn, IIoTBrmiMoa, 6.
llik Dagk Ml ., 7.
Ilibba, 167.
Ilu Momabtrrt, 887.
Imadirm, 887.
Imam Au-rl Gharri, 814.
Imam Au e»m-S«arri, 814.
Imam Dub, 861.
Imam bWawad, 804.
XKBftO (k.\ 848, 849.
Topukuim : G. 4499.
Stuam i BeU’s A. Minor
Him, ocoBaluORtly.
KaI k, from DmOumIMr
or L'mnl.
Imrakor, 166.
Imdia, Routes to, 966.
Imb, 67.
INXBOLI f (n.\ 8, 9.
OootMlRtt: CM
Agent, V. Votostt.
BHtbi Two, both to-
dtffvroni.
fttiBMtrgr O.) A met-
Bung . Uogd . Im j Sand,
to Huh, Konmnd, 9 l
Every Trob. to C dh u H
Boole. (tl.) Jfturfcm. Envy
8oi to 8*0000, Semodo^OrdR,
KoriMnd/TrttoMd, «3
Digitized by
Google
396
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Baldm. Every Siunl. to
Constantinople. (Hi.) Court ji
et Cie. Every Sat. to Sinope,
Samaun, Ordu, Kerosund,
and Treblsond. Every Fri.
to Constantinople. (lv.)
MahsHse. Every Wed. 10
Sinope, Sams An, Ordu, Ker-
aauud, Treblsond, and Kiss.
Every Thur. to Eregll and
Constantinople, (v.) Messa-
gtriet MarUimes call occa-
sionally.
Oonveyanoea; norms , P.
10-18 per diem.
Post: Imperial Ottoman ;
Austrian, French, Russian.
Inkgi, 168.
Ink-okul (h.), 81, 108,
Inkii (n.), 180.
Inkkli, 877.
Imkvi, 86.
InAAKKAUA (N.), 176.
Injarkara Hu It., 176,
Ikjk-alilar, 188.
Imjx fiUkt'M, 8.
IHJE KEUI, 106.
Station : Aidin - Dlneir
Rly.
Imjkhlik Kahvkii, 180.
Injerii Su R., 107.
Injt Su R., 88.
Ikjih-bazak KuIh, 168.
Ikjirlu, 8, 86.
Im Kkui, 8, 18.
Imluu, 168.
Insanli (».), 60.
Ikstosh, 888.
Iranian Plats A u, 881.
lax Blna a, 181.
Is, 818.
IsuAkTAf (a. p.), 160, 167,
168.
ISFAHAN • (rA 888. 888,
380, 831, 888, 388, 861, 368.
Consul : J. U. Preece, Esq.
Isoiii.x, 871.
IsiiakliXn.), 138.
Isiikkli, 108, 131, 166.
IsniKuen, 79.
Ishkaki, 866.
ISHPUNAB, 816.
Iokanoku's Fout, 886.
1-kklaz, 166.
IsKaunf (k.), 10, 81.
Islahia (a.), 888, 888.
IslIm Kkui, 131, 186, 186.
Ismid, 6, 8, 11, 13.
IBMIL, 161.
la*uc, 16. *
Isogulu, 867, 878.
Isolaqkko, 888.
ISPAIllLAU, 165.
Isi'iu (*.), 816, 806, 811.
Issandi, 333.
Jssi-so, 816.
b*L£ Kuan, 60.
Issus, Plain qf, 188.
I8TAS1LAT, 806.
Isr akiib, 886, 837.
Istakcw (K.), 16, 66.
Istakos (n.), 180, 181, 188.
Istanos Chai R., 180.
Istavuob, 176.
J 8 TAVU 0 S Boo HA Z, 807.
ISTKI'IIANA, 873.
Imtion, 868.
IsroeiiuM, 67.
373.
lvuiNlil (k.), 61.
Ivuiz, 158, 169.
J.
Jachpuk, 806.
Jafau-auad, 888.
Jaghjagha Su R., 888, 888.
Jala. 818, 819.
Jamal Saris Hangs, 861.
Jamuazlu, 183.
Jamk, 838.
Jnhxl Bkukkkt or Si ala,
889.
Jkukl kn Nun, 191.
Jkukl Hamlin, 801, 806, 806,
386.
Jtbd Kcrkub, 898.
Jkukl Makluh. 896, 997.
Jebd S'fuil d-Kchf Mt, 186.
Jebd Si-i jar Mt., 893, 898.
Jebel Tur Plateau , 866.
Jkukl Yum, 866.
Jkb£l Lakk, 897.
Jkuaida, 806.
Jklau Kkui, 881.
JE1AT KAHVEH. 93.
Station : Smyrna - Aidin
Rly.
Jklauz, 819.
Jklkmi, 889.
Jelu Mts., 888.
Jmxalan, 868. .
Jkmal-abad. 816 .
Jbksl Kahujx, $80.
Jknan, 860.
Jkba ulus, 890, 888.
Jkhakik, 886.
Jkuasqn, 817.
XUFKLLU, 860.
J kssi, 860. .
Jkvad-ooulu Kill*, 9.
Jxvizlik, 808, 808, 806, 807.
jBzruKf (k. pA 816, 860,
861, 866, 888, 893, 801.
J ibija Kulv, 869.
Jibuin, 897.
Jihun Gorge, 861.
Jikun R., 187, 189, 190, 868,
871, 876, 876, 876.
JUi llcl ihiu, 887.
Jim l, 810.
JIH0VABI, 88,
Station : Smyrna - Aidin
Rly.
Jims, 806.
Jiukala, 60.
Jouukd, 868.
Jonah’s Pillar , 198.
JtIUltak 1/iUs, 888.
Julamkuk f (s.X 839, 888.
J uukiu Kalkii, 868.
Jllfa, 866, 886, 888.
JULMKN, 891.
Jlmisa, 816.
JUKBAULt, 898.
Justikiam's Buidgb, 5.
! K.
Kabak Tept Pel, 878.
Kabkk, 161.
Kauuklu, 189.
Kaitiak, 869.
Kachan, 838.
Kadi-kuukn,69.
Kai*i KiiAn (k.), 188.
Kadik, 119.
Kadi Kkui, 868, 878.
KADi-SiiKim, 86.
Kafak. 883.
Kajtan Auk Mt., 816.
Kaohisman, 817, $16, 888,
Digitized by Tooele
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
397 :
Kahu-1 Zckh, ttO.
Kaialix, 895.
Kaiblak, it.
Kaimakhi, S91.
Kaixas, 17.
Kaikab, 887.
KAISARIYEH + (s. r.\ 50,
18, 80, 87, 54, 56, 160, 168,
165, 166, 168, 170,860.867,
868, 869, 878, 878, 874,
Population : T. 86,000
Ar. 17.000; O. 4000; Prot
1100. Total, 48,800.
Conveyance# : Arabas.
Mcj. 1. perdJrm ; to SamsOn L
M. 19-80; to Angora. M. 8-
16 ; to Koola, M. 18-18 ; to
Meratoa, M. 10-80. Horses.
P. 6-8 per dlatn.
Dootora : Or. Dodd (Ame-
rican MMooji T. Beya-
riades ; D. PiUibasgan
Mustafa Kjl.
Rhine: Tdfcuan (new) ;
Tent, Soma Ogklu.
Locandaa : Three fair
and 6 M meat-abopa,” where
cooked meat can be bought.
KAIBHLAR, 84.
Station : Man lea
lim*.
Kaisiili. 871.
A'aixh Su /?., 874.
Kajatcak Shikkan Pass , 887.
Kakkaba Range, 814.
XAKLIK, 105.
Station: AkHn-Dlnelr
Rly.
Kalabax Serai, 88.
Kalachuk, 804.
Kalaoalla, 44.
Kala-hissar Rock , 80.
Kalaik, 871.
Kalak, 805.
Kalamoti, 856.
Kalan Su R., 48.
Kalababt, 848.
Kalat-abad, 848.
Kalathibs, 878.
Kalatbos, 878.
Kalat 8mlB, 800.
Kala-tabda, 878, 871.
KALKMBt, 811.
Kaleii-i-Dix Fort, 888.
K ALBII-l-DoKttTBB ClTADBL,
884.
K alxh-i-M ADBAflA, 880.
KAlbii-i-Tul, 880.
Kalbh Ja’abbb, 897,
Kalbh Kboi, 8.
Kaleh Mabitab, 888.
HalciI I48xbax> 906, .
KaUk Nadir Shah
888 .
Kaleh Saleh, 814.
Kaleh Sheegat, 800.
Kalek Skergat Mound, 801.
Kalbjix f (x.), 88, 854, 10,
809.
Kalbmabbia, 856.
Kalbkda, 848.
Kalpat Sakab, 814.
Kalrrjik, 49.
Kaliskin Pass, 888 .
Kalxum, 9.
KaUone, Gulf of, 858, 854.
Kalo-Khobi, 854.
Kalolixbo, 61.
Kalopotamoe R., 819, 811.
Kalob-umIh, 854.
Kaltak, 54.
Kalor Kata, 81.
Kalvabb, 199.
RALYKVO (x.), 868.
Population : G. 6000.
8 teamen : Pantaloon Co.
Steamer* of Syrian line
weekly ; of lalaada* 1
fortnightly.
Kamahij, 884.
Kamarlu, 888.
Kamlsk Rogkae Pass, 176.
Kami-ob, 858.
Kakabi, 888.
Karats, 885.
Aandil Daflk Mi., SM.
Karmi.i, 874.
Kakura f (x.), 8.
Aandra Dagk Mt., 8, .
Kanoal (r.), 894, 49, 854,
Kahoawar, 887.
KanUkan Pass, 881.
Kakkart, 10.
Kakkiblari, 179.
Kaktaka. 859, 888.
Kartxobik, 811.
KAPAKLI, 64.
Station : Mania* • Soma
line.
KAPAJy-DtBT, 814.
Kai% 858.
Kapbel. 888.
kapuckin Dagk ML, 879.
A>»f m Kaga Rock, 6.
Kaput. M.
Kaba-aoachlab. 106.
Kaba-aoach f (xA 149, 188,
149, 158, 815, 880.
RARA-AOAOHLI, M.
station,
158 ,
Kaba-aTreb, 889.
Kaba-baohchb, 991.
Kaba-bbkib, 89.
Kaba-baulo Yaila, 154.
Karabasar Dagk Ml., 819.
Kaba Bel, 99, 854.
Kaba-bulax, 886, 888.
RARA-BITVAR (x. r.\ 101;
90, 158, 161, 858, 878.
Station: 8myrna- Aktla
Rly.
Kaba-rurab Yaila, 167.
Kababubru, 174.
Kara Burun (r.% 09, 170.
Kaba-butuk, 804.
Kaba Cxai, 854.
Kara Ckmi R., 68.
KaRA-CHARAX, 805.
Kaba-ohatar, 885. 1 ,
Kaba-chobar, 881.
Kabachu, 857.
Kara Dagk Ml., 88, 69, 188,
850, 851, 804, 888.
Kabadal 895.
Karadaskl Dora, 886.
Kara-dere Su R, 9.
Kabadikrr, 190.
Kabadilu, 148, 157,
Kaba-eubrr, 155.
Kara-kutuk, 16, 59.
Kaba-butuk-baxIb, 199, 119.
Kaba-okrrr, 855.
Karagcdik Dagk Ml., 91.
Kara-genl Lake, 6, 11, 8%
868 .
Kara-geue Su J?„ 69.
Kabaohil, 881.
Kaba oovak, 811, 818.
Kaba-hamsa, 819, 867.
EARA-HIB8AR AFltix +
(a. r.\ 18L 57, 59, 119, 188,
184, 189, 140, 144, 146, 858,
Peoulatiea : T. 90,690 ;
Ar. 6000. Total. 96,000.
Kaba-himab Shabot f (al
48, 4, 17, 86, 46.
Kara-Ir, 179.
Kaba s, 917.
Karaj R^ 817.
Karaja, 984.
8 a bapa Ahmko, 149.
Karctfa Dagk ML, 891.
K a baja Eubbr, 149, 179.
Kabaja-tibar (r.), 19,
Kabajvlab, 19.
Kabajol, 867.
I Kabakar, 919.
|Uba-Kat a, 99, 47, 891. •
Digitized by
Google
398
INDEX AND DIRECTORY,
Kara-Kaya Bridgx, 811.
Kara-Kaya Dagh Ml., 180.
Kara-Kaya Rock , 18.
Kaea-Krchili, 88.
Kara Kkui; 16, 81.
Kara KhIx, 888.
Kara-rilmbk f (u.\ 888, 817,
888, 880, 819, 870, 878.
Kara-KoKlu, 887.
Kaba-Kulak, 868.
KaRA-KuKDUZ, 830.
Kara -Kurt, 66, 816.
Kara-Kusii, 896.
Kara-kutk Monument, 866.
Kara-maohara (k.), 81.
KARAMAN + (k A 167, 166,
168, 176, 177, 181, 188. 181.
Population : T. 4600 ; Q.
600. Total, 6000.
Karaman MU., 188.
Karaman Plain, 167.
Karan ax-Ogiilu, 871.
Karanlks, 896, 306.
Kabahlik, 191, 198.
Kara-ooiilan Kkui, 38, 68.
KARA-oaiiLu, 867.
Kara-on ja Su R., 11.
Kara-Ova, 119.
Kara-^anuukli, 116.
Kararrxir, 167.
Kara-Shbikh, 917.
Kaba-Su (k.), 911,851.
Kara Su R., 811, 8, 9, 16, 16,
53, 66, 57, 89, 118, 163, 801,
806, 811, 918, 818, 819, 860,
861, 868, 868, 861, 876, 88 8,
889, 887.
Kara-tash, 190, 66, 79, 108.
Kara-task Cape, 171.
Kara-tkpk, SOI.
Kara-tkuz, 860.
Kaua-uicuan, 816, 915.
Kakavamk, 817.
Kauavaxskuai, 816.
Kaudamyli, 866.
Kabgha Basar, 817.
Kaboix (x.), 18, 18.
Karims, 866.
Karim-abad, 811.
Karixd, 886.
Karikja, 19.
Kab Kiadax, 819.
KARLOV A8I,f 861.
Steamers : Pantaloon Co.
Weekly to and from Smyrna
and Rhodes.
KARMAN, 819.
Consul: Lieot. P. M.
Sykes.
Karman-Shau, 886, 801, 888,
887, 889.
Kaunas Sbahax, 818.
Kaunak, 800.
Karxikbs, 919.
Karput Su R., 171.
Karpuzu, 117,
KARS* (r.), 816, 916, 817,
819. 881, 869.
Hotel: U. St. Pctersburgk,
fair.
Oonrsyanoes : Phaetons,
two horse, to Alexandropol.
Rs. 16.
Kars-bazIr (k.), 871, 871.
Kan Chat R„ 816, 817.
Kanulu R., 871, 876.
Kartal Kaya Rock, 81.
Karun R., 398, 889.
Kasarasi, 191.
Kashaklu, 161.
Kasiiax, 310, 811, 318.
Kashyan R., 838.
Kasimlkb, 161.
KABO (it.), 376, 376.
Population: Q. 7600; T.
100 .
Steamers: Pantaloon Co.
Fortu. to and from Smyrna,
calling at Islands.
Kask Dklam, 916.
Kasu-bk-Uahabku, 899, 810.
Kasu-i-Shiuin, 801, 896.
KAS8ABA Chi# O r f (x.), 116.
XA8BABA f (k.). 89. 90, 91.
Railway : Station on
Smyrna- Ala-ehehr Rly. One
train daily each way.
Kassaba, 186, 157.
Kassin-oqulu. 838.
Kastal, 898, 318.
KABTAM<hri % (v.). 7, 8, 6,
8,9,11,18.
Population : T. 10,600 ;
Q. 1800; Ar. 480. Total,
12,700.
KA8TArBK, 11.
Kastapek Su R., 11.
Kastxllo, 878.
KABTR0 1 (a. Mitylene), 368,
09, 170. M7, 818. 861, 866,
Population : Q. 106,000 ;
T. 16,000. Total, 120,200.
Consulate : Vice-Consul,
F. Hadkinson, Eeq.
Hotels : U. Constantino-
ple, good j H. MaXaJeou , fair ;
M. (vutsouki, fair.
Steamers : (1.) Just. -
Hung. Loyd. Fortn. Sat.
to Constantinople ; Fri. to
Smyrna, (ii.) Court ji et
Cie. Every Wed., (a.) to
Constantinople ; (b.) to-
Smyrna. (III.) MakHUt.
Weekly, irregular, (iv.)
Egyptian Mail steamers
(KAedieieA). Ev ry Set. to
Constantinople; Tbura. to
Smyrna, (v.) PanheUenic
Cb. Kvery Frl. to Constan-
tinople ; Tuee. to Smyrna,
(yi.) Pantaleon Co. Every
Tues. to Constantinople ;
Than, and Sat. to Smyrna ;
Sat. to Salonika, (vil.) Joly
Victoria and Hamid ieh ir-
regularly to ports on the
island, Aivali, Edremid, and
Smyrna.
Conveyances : Carriage,
P. 140 per diem ; Horses, P.
20-30.
Post: Imperial Ottoman ;
Austrian.
Bank : Bank qf Mitylene.
Oaths: Clubs Malakou ;
Coutsouki.
Doctor* : Sifneo ; Cara ;
Salta.
Kasvin, 316.
Kata via, 878.
KAVAKf (x.), 157, 86, 88.
Kavak-agach, 868.
Kavak Tkpk, 166.
Kavaidi Here, 89. ,
Kavakxu, 188.
Kavarrk, 817.
Kavir Huui, 891.
Kavo-krio, 117.
Kavuxji Kkui-ri 17.
Kavuklu, 17.
Kawam-abaj>, 888.
Kayapa, 61.
KAYA8. 98.
Station : Smyrna - Aidin
Rly.
Kava-iuikau, 60.
Kaya-mui, 19, 180,
Kaya-KiiIk, 9.
Kazakh, 68.
KAZAHIR, 98.
Station : Smyrna - Aidin
Rly.
Kazam Au, 875, 876, 867,
869.
Kazan Kaya Rock, 81.
Kas Dagh Ml., 99.
Kazi, 883.
Kasik Bel Pats, 180.
KasiHi Dagh ML, 116, 801,
806, 800.
K^cmnt^K.), 803, 800, 801,
Kaxiri-ova Plain, 118.
Kaz Kkui, 86.
Kasli (Jodik Bd Pan, 88).
Digitized by ^.ooQle
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
399
Kazu Grul Hannah, ft.
Xas-ova Plain, 41.
VtAiatpr, 994.
KaiVtr, tit, 317.
K*BAK-MAD*D + (*.*.), 994,
Kbcttbr Kkct, lit.
K ?2 , -f?; ur < B > “•> «•.
130. 147.
Xecki-KaUsi, 48. 94.
Krcriut (k.), 47* 49,
KKriL.104.
Kkpkrr, t.
Etfbtn Bay, t.
Rm How am. ttt.
Kbpr Josh. 946.
Kroami, 964.
K icon art MoRAerknr, 998.
Krkujr Karvrh, 198, 181,
. 189.
Krkur-oori.u, 870.
Kbkova. 186, 188, 171.
KeJcrut Springs, 186.
Krlrbrsh, Ho.
Kblrs (k.), 91.
Kblkit Chtrrux (kA 968,
904,908,908.
Jr 4R40 r " la * ** *’ 4< ’ 47 ’
Kelkit Su R., 908, 900, 968.
Krlt.rr, 88.
KMMARIf t (X.), 961, 964.
•SKIS W'"-
Bmntn x Pantaleoh Co.
Fortn. to and from Smyrna*
110 .
Station : Sokla Branch Una,
. S. and A. Kly. .
Kxmrklcv 917. •
Kama, 47.
Krpcrdi* Ota Plain , 978.
Kkphalo, 808. ■
K MR A MO, 868.
Kkrarkrcr, 90.
Kmmamam, 900.
naiwraj «, u,
Popalatfon : T. 6000 ; <j.
6000 ; Ar. M0. Total 10,806.
m^lata porta. (It.)
*** oooe a weak to Elia
*** to Constantinople.
(▼.) Messageriss MarUimss.
Fortn. Tom. to Trebbond
and Bat 6 m ; fortn. Sand, to
®*®*46 end Coortanilnople.
(▼».) PanksUenic. Kerta.
>tmd. to Trebtaood atk
B*t4m ; fortn. Fri. to Sam
mo «»d Constantinople.
Port i Imperial Ottoman
Austrian; French; Rut
Sian .
Keraaurd Adas, 4.
i (I.) AUSt .-
t. Every Mond.
BtUff. JJogd, a.gi^ ngmi,
to TreMaond and Battim ;
every Sand, to 8anwAn,
Inrltoll, and Oonrtintlnnple.
(II.) Hussion. Every Snnd.
to Treblsond and Brt6m ;
•v'-ry Fri. to OonarantJnonla
•vi-iT Fri. to Cbnarantlnonle
and In term dirt* porta. (111.)
Osurtji et Cis. Every Sand.
,.to ??«M®ood ; every Wed. to
Const anil nop le and Inter-
[Turkey . — viL os.]
Oenaalatei Consular
Kb?. 1 * Na * ab IbrlU,tan
Kkrrli, 149, 168.
Xertmbs Huron, 8.
Krmrmrk (r.% 81.
Xerkka A, 814, 898.
XerleiMl., 869, 881.
KRaaft) or KJtsrrr (*.), ft, 61
KxaxRrxR, 81.
KRanAtr, 40.
KRanx, 818. ..
Krmmr, 164, 966.
Xesssn Bogins, 184.
Kxenx Kxuriu, 66.
Aessft Su R+ 978.
K uS"' 17i * 181 *** 1M >
XsstH Choi R., 86.
Xestd Dttgh Ml., 174, 178;
Krstrlrx Cartlr, 68.
Aerial Gent fake, 168.
Krtivak, 998.
K S5 'fcS'VLf* * **, m,
881. 888, 896.
Kkui Yxjtt, 978.
Kku,ib* + (x.). 118.
Keujss Geul tales, 118.
ICRurai-BAsm, 809.
Krupmi Dctt, 913,
KRnpBi-HrrtAJt, 16.
Rrdpmi KtUI. 999, 89, 88.
215.
Knmur, 131.
Mrupri Su H., 178.
KimotnU 83.
Krure Knyn, The, 28.
KKUItXt.AR, 61.
Krtmi 1 , 231.
Keussr DngK 'Mt 228.
K 169.
Kkzarlik, 867.
Kxzxizar, 328.
Xhackapat Pont, 916.
Khacred, 864,
Rhadadla Islarm, 601.
Kbadaiarks, 888.
Khamak, 808, 887.
Rmakbo^ 818, 814.
Rhax KAMA vomit, 888.
Rmalpat, 889, 888.
397, too.
Pepolatloa: O. 6000; T.
160. .
r ” ntal *>* c».
weekly from and to BH tr
and Smyrna.
Kiri*. 887.
KhAka, 946.
KharakA, 941.
Khakasum, 888.
Riri* brauKva, 887.
Kill* Buka*, 877.
Khakdax, I.
KhAx-drmr, 818.
Kol* Dr asst, 10.
KbIrrx Kumar, 888.
Kiri* Rz-Zad, 887.
K«l* Haswam, 807.
KbIr-i-abad, 888.
Knarikhar, 886.
KnARtx, 886.
KhAk-i.Kombr, 888 .
KltlR-i-iliRlK, 898, 898.
KkAr laXARDRRlBH, 911.
KiTARior, 910.
KiriR.(-Z(RtAV. 888.
Khanjiru Su R., 888.
KitARjuRnx, 889.
KhJLr Karamut, 188.
KbIr K*pi, 8, 81, 878.
KhXr If ahawi^ 807, 910.
KbIr MAmr^Diaii, 807, ‘
KBARLt. 88.
KnARLi-KAVAB, 871.
KrIr Nudrirr, 807,
KbIr Suwmat, 868.
Kbarzir, 880.
Kharara, 948.
Rita ra r xii, tog,
Kharadhax, lTf,
Kharadmn %ai it, 178,
Kiiarakik, 849.
KitARroT, 246,
“sS^aasa
IU NI7%R, 3*2.
K hashish Drtgk Ml^ 869.
Kiuahrkk, 209,
Kbar Krui.189. •
luulUiu.Mi,
! v
Digitized by
Google
398
INDEX AND DIRECTORY,
Kaba-Kaya Bbidgx, SIX.
Kara- Kaya Dagh Ml., ISO.
Kara-Kaya Rock, II.
Kaba-Kjcchiu, S3.
Kara Kidi; 16, 91.
Kara KhIh, 868.
KAra-eiliubk f (x.\ SIS, 117,
SIS, 880, 849, 870, 878.
Kara-KoKlu, 887.
Kaba-Kulak, 866.
Kaba-Kuwdoz, 880.
Kaba-Kurt, 66, 816.
Kara-Kosii, 896.
Kara-kuth Monument, 866.
Kara-xaohara (h.), 84.
KARAXAN f (k.), 167, 166,
166, 176, 177, 181, 188. 164.
Population : T. 4600 ; G.
600. Total, 6000.
Karaman MU., 188.
Karaman Plain, 167.
Kabaman-Ogiilu, 871.
Karamlzs, 896, 606.
Kabanlik, 191, 198.
Kaua-oqiilan Kkui, 88, 68.
Kaua-ogiilu, 867.
Kara-onja Su R., 11.
Kaba-Ova, 119.
Kara-^axdukli, 146.
Kakaaknih, 167.
Kara-Shrixh, 847.
Kara-So (k.), 841, 864.
Kara Su R., 844, 8, 9, 16, 16,
66, 66, 67, 89, 118, 168, 804,
806, 811, 818, 848, 849, 860,
861, 863, 868, 864, 876, 888,
889, 887.
Kara-tash, 190, 66, 79, 108.
Kara-task Cape, 171.
Kaba-tepr, 804.
Kara-teuz, 860.
Kaka-ui<uan, 816, 816.
Kauavamk, 817.
Kauavanskrax, 819.
Kakdamyli, 868.
Karqka Bauak, 847.
Kargin (n.), 48, 13.
Karixs, 866.
Karim-abad, 841.
Karind, 886.
Karinja, 49.
Kar Kiadan, 819.
KA&LOVASI.f 861.
Steamers : Pantaloon Co.
Weekly to and from Smyrna
and Rhodes.
KARXAN. 848.
Consul : Lieut. P. M.
Sykes.
Karman.Siiau, 386, 804, 888,
887, 888.
Karmam Sbahan, 848*
Kahxak, 800.
Kaenikks, 849.
Karput Su S„ 174.
Karpozu, 117.
KARB* (p.), 316, 816, 817,
319 881. 868.
Hotel; H. St. Peteratmrgk,
fair.
Conveyances : Phaetons,
two horse, to Alexandropol.
Rs. 16.
Karb-bazIb (k.), 874, 871*
Kars Ckai R., 816, 817.
Karsulu R., 871, 876.
Kartal Kaya Rock, 81.
Karun R., 688, 889.
Kababasi, 184.
Kabhaklu, 164.
Kashan, 840, 841, 848.
Kaskgan R., 838.
Kabimlrr, 164.
KABO (x.), 875, 876.
Population: G. 7600 ; T.
100 .
Steamers : Pantaloon Co.
Fortn. to and from Smyrna,
calling at Islands.
Kasr Del an. 346.
K asu-b m- Uaha BKII, 899, 810.
Kasr-i-Shihin, 804, 886.
Kassaba Chi# 0t + (n.), 146.
KAB8ABA + (x.), 88. 90, 91.
Railway : Station on
Smyrna- Ala-ehehr Rly. One
train daily each way.
Kassaba, 186, 167.
Kassim-oquld. 883.
Kastal, 898, 318.
KABTAxflNI % (v.), 7, 8, 6,
6,9,11.18.
Population: T. 10.600;
G. 1800 ; Ar. 480. Total,
12,700.
Kastaprk, 14.
Kastapek Su R., 14.
Kastbixo, 878.
KABTR0 1 (s. Mitylene), 868,
69, 170.847,848. 864. 866.
Population: G. 106,000;
T. 16,000. Total, 120,200.
Consulate : Vice-Consul,
F. Hadkinson, Eeq.
Hotels : U Constantino-
ple, good ; M. Malakou, lair ;
if. CouUouki, lair.
Steamers : (i.) Aust. -
Hung. Loyd, rortn. Sat.
to Cunstantlnople ; Fri. to
Smyrna, (ii.) Courtji et
Vie. Every Wed., (a.) to
Constantinople ; (b.) to*
Smyrna. (ill.) Maksdet.
Weekly, irregular, (iv.)
Egyptian Mail steamers
( Kkediviek ). Ev»*ry Sat. to
Constantinople; Thurs. to
Smyrna, (v.) Pankellenie
Co. Every Fri. to Constan-
tinople ; Toes, to Smyrna,
(yi.) Pantaleon CO. Every
Tues. to Constantinople ;
Tliurs. and Sat. to Smyrna ;
Sat. to Salonika, (vli.) Joly
Victoria and Hamidiek ir-
ri-#ul«rly to ports on the
Island, Alvali, Edremid, and
Smyrna.
Conveyanoes : Carriage ,
P. 140 per diem ; Morses, P.
20-30.
Post : Imperial Ottoman ;
Austrian.
Bank : Bank qf Mitylene.
Cette : Club; Malakou;
COuUouki.
Doctors : Sifneo ; Cara ;
Salta.
Kasvin, 816.
Kata via, 878.
KAVAKf (n.), 167, 36, 86.
Kavak-agacu, 268.
Kavak Trpr, 166.
Kuvakli Dert, 89. ,
Kavaklu, 188.
Kavarkk, 817.
Kavir Hitri, 991.
Kavo-xrio, 117.
Kavuxji Kxupri 17.
Kavuklu, 17.
Kawam-abad, 888.
Katapa, 61.
KAYAS. 93.
Station : Smyrna - Aidin
Rly.
Kaya-iiunah, 60.
Kaya-ihui, 49, 190.
Kaya-Kii1n,9.
Kazakh, 68.
KAZAXIR, 98.
Station; tmyma - Aidin
Rly.
Kazam Alt, 876, 876, 887,
889.
Kasan Kaya Rock, 81,
Kas Dagh Mt., 69.
Kazi, 883.
Kasik Bd Pass, 180.
Kaiikli Dagh Mt., 116, 804,
806, 800.
Kaziuix^k.), 803, 800, 801,
Kaxiri-ova Plain , 148.
Kax Kkiii, 88.
Kaali Uedik Bd Past, 88 L
Digitized by i^ooQle
HfDIX UTD DIRECTORY.
399
Kazu Gkul Ham mam, ft.
Kas-ova Main, 41.
KaIbum, 834.
KazVtm, 316, 317.
Kujii-iudm t (t Mt,
Kscnxx Kkui, lit.
K ?2?'f2! l,r{K ^ 14,1 1M >
130. 147.
focki-Kalesi, 03. 04.
Kbchittt (k.), 47, 49.
KxriL,l0t.
Krpkkm, 8.
Ktfhcn Bag, 3.
Km Howar, ttt.
Kbpr Jose, 943.
Kkoaxi, 834.
Keohart MovAsrkRr, 883.
Kkrujk Karvrh, 180, 181,
. 188.
Kkxlik-ooiii.u. 870.
Kkkova, 123, 188, 171.
Kekrut Springs, 163.
Kklkbesh, 110.
Kklbs (x.), 81.
Kklkit ChtrruK (kA 838,
804,808,808.
*u!* rma * ** ** n
folk it Su B , 808, 808, 838
Kblijcr, 36. •
Krwakii + (k.), 831. 834.
■HBtfiMS*-'
Steamer* t Pantaloon 00.
Forto. to and from Smyrna.
R. 110.
Station : 8okU Branch line,
, 8. and A. Aly. .
KkMRRLC, 817. . •
Kkmu, 47.
Krpcrdiu Ota Plain, 878.
Kkphalo, 806. •:
Krramo, 336.
Krbamkrch, 80.
Kbramar, 800.
XMistnroj (k.x «, a,
Population : T. 3000 ; 4.
3000 ; Ar. M0. Total 10,806.
i (I.) Just.
1. Every Mond
Bung. Uojfd.
to TreMaood and BatAm,
nrrry Sond. In 8*m»0o,
Inrltoll, and Connmtlnople.
(II.) Hussion. Every Hiind.
to TreWxond and Bat6m;
ov»*ry FrL to Oonsrantloople
and Interra dlate porta (ill.)
Oturtji et Cie. Every Sand,
.•to Trebisood ; every Wed. to
Cntwtantlnople and lnfter-
[Turtey^-rii to.]
mediate porta (It.) JMbA-
•6m oooe a week to Rim
and to Constantinople.
(▼.) Msssageriss Maritimu
Fortn. Toea to Trebtoood
and BatSm * forto. Sand, to
Samadi and Constantinople.
(▼I.) PanksUenic. Kerta.
Mmd. to Trebfsood and
Bftdm ; forto. Frl. to Sam-
*4a and Constantinople.
Feet t Imperial Ottoman;
Austrian ; french; Roe.
sian,
Kkbaackd Adah, 4.
Oeoaalate: Cmmiar
A^rnt, Nawab M. Ibrafahn
Kkrku, 148, 138.
Berembe Bunn, 8.
Krbxsrm (a.), 61.
Kerkka B., 814, 888.
forki ML, 838, 881.
KiaBto or Kasnr(v.X 81, 81.
Kksrbvxx, 61..
KxaiiAX, 40. :
Kasna, 818. .
Kmx, 184. 833.
fosse* Bnghas, 104.
Kxaetx KxorRi, 33.
fossik Su B+ 878.
K wt 1 * m * 16> lw » IM *
KestH Ckai B., 83.
fo*d Dngh Mt., 174, I7»i
Kmtklkk Castle, 38.
Ktsid Gad lake. 111. .
Krtivax, 888.
<**.«.
Keui Yrbv, 876.
Kkwk* + (k.), 118.
foujes Gad tales, 118.
Krufbi-basht, 888.
Kkupei Deft, 818.
Krupbi-hiMar, 18.
K m“ *■*>•*>**.
Kruprilu, 181.
Brupri Su B^ 171.
KbobcobU, 88.
Keurs Bagn, The, 88.
Kkurrlar, 31.
Kboruklu, 831.
Beussc Dngh 'ML, 888.
Katrru Kxrt, 188. •
Ksxaxur, 887. .
Krzxoax, 888. .
*>£>»•■ *. mi, Ui,Ui,m,
•Wf Wit
Khaekapat Pod, 818.
Khachsr, 834,
Khaoama Islam oe, 801.
Khadalanks, 880.
Kradbak. 808, 807.
Khakbo, 818, 814.
Krak kabavokh, 888.
Kralpat, 838, 888.
367,868.
j^PepolatioM: O. 3000 ; T,
Steamerei Pantaloon Co.
Weekly from and to Rhodes
and Smyrna.
KhIm, 887.
KhAma, 943.
KhabakA, 841.
Khamasur, 888.
KitlM Birukus, 887.
KhIm Buxab, 877.
Khamdax, 3.
KhIm-debr, 818.
KhIm Dbbbsi, 10.
KrImbr Kuboam, 888.
KhIm et-Zad, 887.
KhIm Haswar, 807.
KhIm-i-abao, 888.
Knamibkam. 883.
KRAMfRiMf (R.X 883.
K hakim, 883.
Knlx-t-KoBBR, 888.
KttiM-i-llialM. 888, 388.
KrAk ISKAMDEBlBR, 111.
KnAMior, 816.
KlliN-t-Z(MlAR. 888.
A hanjiru Su B., 888.
Kiiaxjurdr, 888.
KhIm Kara* err, 888.
KhIm Kayi, 8. 81, 878.
KhIm Mahawil, 307, 810.
KhIm MARiftomi, 807.
KRAMLt. 88.
Khamu-Katar, 871.
KhIm Nl^Bbier, 807.
KhIm Surinam, 808.
Khaxwb, 809.
K HA BA BA, 848,
KiiabaB-ShehB. 188.
Khabadrax, 178.
Kkaradmc*a{JL,n$.
Khabakut, 840.
Kharpot, 846.
"at^ttaas;
8, /L.tM, Mt, *07,
Dot* Jd, at*.
Kiumifc, M*.
K«a» Kiln. 13*. •
(uiuXU>i>,m,
a w
Digitized by
Google
.400
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Khatim Skbai (k.), 116, 167.
KHAYSA (x.), 88, 6, 81, 86,
Population t T. 640 :
Christians, 360. Total, 1000.
Khkns: Several— food.
Khaysor, 808.
Khazir, 844.
Kkas Su R., 846, 884.
Khdidonia Cape , 186. .
Khkussar, 881, 884.
Khrbtviz, 881.
Khish, 816.
Kiiikis, 888.
Khinis Choi R., 881, >48.
Khimis Kalxu .+ (k.), 881,
KHI0 % (•*), 866
Population:
T. 2000. '
Consulate :
-ooo.
Q. 18,000;
Vice-Consul,
D. Anamissaki.
Steamers : (i.) Aust.-
Hung. Lloyd, calls weekly
g atsengers to and from
myrna. (li.) Russian Co.
Weekly to and from Smyrna.
P ntaleon CO. Weekly.
Gotti. Hal. Fortn.,
ihsUss. Fortn. (vi.)
A. Minor Lino.
Weekly.
Post : Imperial Ottoman ;
Austrian ; French ; Rus-
sian.
Khisht, Plain qf, 834.
Khium, 868, 888.
Khizan, 841.
Khoi, 886, 888, 886.
Khoi Chai R., 886.
Khoja Assar, 161.
KHOJA BASH, 106.
Station : AUliq - Dtneir
Ely.
Khoja Chai R., 188.
Kboxas, 106.
Khonas Dagh Ml., 118, 180.
Khonas Su R ., 104.
Khemchalu Lake, 881.
Kiiou.v, 861.
Khouasan, 887, 888.
Khoram-abad, 888.
Khorni, 848.
Kiioros Kiussr, Ml.
Khorsabad, 886, MO, 897.
Khoru, 146.
Khorut, 817.
KhORYIRAB MONASTERY, 888.
Khorzum, 181, 118.
Khosiiab (k.), 887.
Khobhab Pukar Pass, 804.
Khoshab Su R u 888,687, Ml.
Khoskab Valley, 888.
KhOSHR - YANK MONASTERY,
880.
Khosbsv Pasha Kniv, 146.
Khosrovrrav, 888.
Khosti Bel Pass, 861.
Khowam, 946.
Khozat f (a.). 860.
Khozatpur, 816.
Khorr R., 886.
Khud-abad, 848.
Khukrkv, 886.
Khumara, 841.
Khukduk, 846.
K hurrah KalxsIc 878.
Khurasan Su R., 868, 871*
Khushab.888.
Khushak, 886.
Kiiubi, 886.
Kiadet Dagh Mt., 818.
Kiariita + (k.), 867.
Kiakhta Su R., M7, 866.
Kiam, 811, 814, 816.
Kipri, 804, 8M.
Kiksa Kapusi, 818.
Kulaguh, 888.
Kilburja, 68.
Kilu, 160, 180.
Kiuja-uoluk, 118.
Kilij Bel Pass, 880.
Kilulau. 80.
Kilij Su R., 1, 88.
Kiuk, 868 .
Kiumtampi KhIh, 49.
KILIHDRIA+ (k.% 176, 171,
177.
Steamers : Pantaloon Co.
Weekly to and from Smyrna
and Merslna.
Kilislik, 866.
Kilumam, 106.
Kl LIBRA, 166.
Kilissr, 888, 841.
Kiussr Krkdi, 886.
Kiussr Krui, 68.
Kims f (k.). 887, 888, 880.
Kinaukuird, Ml.
Kinik, 85, 108.
Kinbiik, 288.
KIOSK (h.\ 98, 108.
Station : Aldln - Dineir
Ely.
Kiras Bel, 800.
Kirchu, 868.
Kiru KhIm, 161.
Kirk-aoha, 67.
KIRK-AOAOHt (R.), 86.
Railway : Station on the
Manias -SumA line ; one train
daily each way.
KiR-Kapu, 176.
Kirk-ddim Dagh Mt., It.
Kirk-geckid Chai R., 11.
Kirk-gechid Pass, 166, 868.
Kirk-geuz KhIh, 168.
Kirk-geus Spring, 888.
Kir KhIh, 868.
Kirk -In, 146.
Kirkinjkh, 96.
Kirkisiysh, 899.
Kirk KhIh. 889, 989.
Kirk-Kehm, 886.
Kirk-Kiussk, 819.
Kirkuk f(s. p.), 806, 886.
Kirmas Dagh Ml., 88.
Kirmaili Kassaba (k.X 66.
Kirpr Island, 8.
Kirpr LimIm, 6.
Kir-surur f (a. p.X 64, 80,
66 .
Kiryxh, 616.
Kisulak, 817.
Kiskkh, 874. •
Kismikor, M0.
Kissa Chai R., 806.
Kissir Dagh Mt., 818. .
Kitova Dagh ML, 804.
Kiussr-derbsi, M.
Kiya Olmaz, 877.
Kir Adasi, 60.
Kizik, 48, 64.
KisU Chai R., 948.
KM Dagh Mt., 80, 864.
Kizil-diza, 884. 886, 880.
KIZIL-POOHAH, 44.
Kizu^rurkh, 64, 148, 870,878.
KM-godik Bd Pass, 888.
Kizil-hissar, 119, 180.
KM Jrmak R. t 80, 9, 7, 10,
11, 18, 88, 86, 48, 49, 60,
69, 64, 66, 864, 880, 887.
Kiziua, 119, 148.
Kizil Jau, 90.
KixUjl Plain , 888.
Kizil-Kata (n.), 180.
Kizil Krui, 47.
Kizil-Kiussr (k.), 860, 911.
Kizil Robat, f 886.
Kiz-Karaja, 61.
Kiz Krui, 16.
Kislar Kaya Dertsi Ravine,
81.
Kizu-hissar, 186, 1M.
Kidiman Bumu, 171.
Kochahnks, 888, 888.
Koch- a u Oyasi, 88.
Kochannes Valley, 888.
Kocmbans, 884.
Koch Bd, 48.
Kocq-husar f (n. pA 47, 9,
18, 146, 148, lit.
Digitized by
IVDKX AND DIRECTORY*
'401
Kociniro, Ml.
Kocho, ttl.
KdOAR-TAU, 7f .
Kogkade Geul baht. 111,
Koau-mauc f (*.), M, U,
49.
Koja Su /?., Ilf.
Kcma Kalmi. 111.
Kossri, mi.
KojuktIr, 114.
koLOKTTHIA, lM.
***& **-•**>"*"!*
iWj SlOi
Kollo, 944.
Kokaksor, ttl.
Kom. til.
Komk, 219.
Kom Sul l, MO. 1 ‘ :*
KottORoAx, 909.
Komaor. Ml.
Koxak Ghoja, 179.
Konak Su R.. M.
Kokar takhtrk. IM.
Kondicka Hill, 114.
TOW*
Fepolatlsns T. 17,190;
O. 300; Ar. 140. Tout,
18,000.
Ooneeyartes t Arabai,
boraea, tod males can be
hired; rates by agreement.
Bank : Imperial Ottoman..
Doctor : Diamantidi*.
M*Ut,MV(dkh,g oil
kop Daffk ML, 104, IM.
Kop.KhIx, 904. . , . , .
Kouneot, 919.
kouoox, 171. l •
KorkhaR. M7.
Korkmaz, 171, •
111, 117.
. 9000; T.
Steamer* : Pantaloon Co.
8teahtere of Syrian line,
weekly.
XOS-fcffHAJt, n.
Station : Smyrna - AJdln
Rly.
Kotlijan Daffk ML, 949.
K OSH MKT, 19.
Koamnt, Ml.
Koskihc, 171.
kosor, no;
KoTAL-i-DoKfmt, IM.
Kotal-i-Kam aru, lift.
Kotal-cIIaud Plat, Mi ' r
Kotal-i-Pirkax, lift.
KoTAi^i-URCHnr, Ml. T ‘
Kora, Ml.
Konri, M4.
KorRAiru. Ml.
Koterut Daffk Ml* Ml.
Kotor, Ml, |M.
Kotwr Chat R., IM.
KOz-aoiia, 971.
Koklo. 00, Ml. •
Krarai, ill.
Krbmasto, 17ft.
Krivi, 170. .1
Krio Cape . Ml, 100.
Krom Tolley, 997.
Krakta, MO.
Komk, Ml.
Kochok Dotaltk, M.
Kucruk Chaooaris, 104.
Kocitok Kroi, It.
KuekuhMendart, 90, 91.
Kockok Tapalak, Ml.
Kota, 909.
Kuoo, 141.
Kuk-i-ndetok irate, 119, Ml.
Kmh-i-ffaran ML, Ml.
Koh-i-Nitux, Ml.
Kuk-i-Rahm* Ml 117.
Kuh-i-Sapid. 990.
Kuk-iSdiffun ML, MO.
Kohka Knit, Ml.
Konpa, Mi.
Kohroo, 940.
Koishk-mKak, Mli
K ok toe a, 79.
KOkOtlO, 999.
KOLAf(R.), IM, IM.
Kolapli, 09.
KoLAn, 17.
Kulak-Kata, 49;
Kolaku, 0ft.
Kolrk, 941.
Kollv, Ml.
Kolp, 917.
Kulp SuR* 941.
Kom, 941,191.
KOm-apsrar, 190, 191.
Komrkt, ill, 49, 17; 199, 141
Kumbet Plain, 97, II.
KOm Choi It., 94, M.
Ktu Dmrrt, 917.
Kffmtr Dart Vattty, Ml.
KQmer Su R., Ml.
KuMtuer, 991.
Koxtmikii, 999.
KUMJAS, 11.
Kom Kapo, 171, 177,
Kommkk KhIk, 979.
Komor, 971.
Koxdkras, IM.
Kokdo, 49.. .
Komorut,!. 1 ' 1
KurJL, 9U, 991, 9M, Ml.
Kur Valley, 110.
Korba, IM.
KoRAxet, M.
Kurd Aw, IM.
KORDtBTAX, 197.
Korrh (*.), 9, II, IM.
KSrtk Daffk Mi., M.
Korrli, 999.
KurHi Durum, ft.
Korirtkiv, 111.
KoRtTKLJtx, 990.
Korlkmrx, 9M.
KDWTA f (k.X lift, 110.
Bteemcrs t JUm steamers
touch going up and down
the riper.
KorxaR, Ml.
Karra R., Ml.
Korsrnik, Ml.
Korshomlo, 19.
Kurtkunlu Drpt, ft*
KurnUu Su tL, 979.
Karl Bd JR., 971, 4ft, 97^,
970, 9M.
Kurt Da,h Jtt„ U, U.
KortKkot, 0 .
Kort Kulak, 191, 190.
KukOkASif, 997, 949.
Koro-ooat, 19.
Kara Ckal R., 949, 194, 910,
970, 9M. . '
KMra Ckai Ast, 979, 970.
Kara Daffk ML, 977.
Korok, MS.
KOrOklO, 991.
Karan Daffk Ml., 99 ft.
Kdro Orolhk, 01.
KbROiox, 919, Ml.
Kuaf k. Ml.
Kceuott, Ml.
Koeaop, 4ft.
Kfeean, Ml.
Kcrcra, 141.
/Vanes;
KTOMAt («.*). 17, 0.M,
F . , .i. M w I MM(T.,0.,
Ar j&Ua, p^r.
KCT BL-AMARA.f lift.
Kuima, M7.
Kopixjauk, 119.
KUyaUBd P*u,lM.
XVTAMLMl.
Mai n. 4*
beat; H. Cblckide.
Digitized by
Go
402
JUDEX AND DIRECTORY,
Kotulo Tatlar, 168.
KurcNjrK, 894, 896, 801.
KOz, 811.
JTusu Chai R., 88,
Kwahraki, 898,
Kwaneh, 840.
L.
Btaamen : (1.) MdJuAm,
Forto. (from Constanti-
nople) to SaIoqIIca ; and
(from Salonika) to Dar-
danelles and Constantinople.
(11.) Bdl't A. Minor line.
(ill.) Pantaloon Co. Weekly
to and from Smyrna.
I .ik do, 878. •
Ltreo, 868, 170.
Liter, 140, 67, 141.
Liz, 848.
Lizah, 840.
Iosta, 167.
Lujia Hot Springs, 868.
I.csAVOkicu Mokastert, 888.
MAMETJ (R.X 116,181,188,
Steamers: Pantalem 0k
Weekly to and from Smyrna
and Martina.
Marsud-emgi, 888.
Maru, 888.
Max- amir, 880.
MdLamir Plain, 888.
MALATIAf (a.). 866, 96T,
881,864, 871, 878, 878, 877.
• Population t T. SM86t
Ar. 6000.
Malck-d-Mdut Deri; HI,
Malbk Kalem, 161.
Mauav, 866.
Ladik (r.), 88, 16, 89.
LaERMA, 878.
Laoharah, 848.
Lahjan Plain , 881, 894.
Lakharia, 878.
Lalr Bel, 60.
Lamas Gorge, 188.
Lanuu R. t 177, 179.
Largad*. 866.
Lappa| 49.
Jmrakda, 177.
Lartos, 878.
lottos Mill , 876.
Latka, 840.
Latomi, 866.
Lazjstax, 810.
LasUtan MU., 4, 818.
LZFKEHt (R. p.), 16, 69.
Station : Anutolian Rly.
LeiiiuK, 840.
Upetkymnut MU., 868, 864.
LER0(k.). 868, 171. 868.
Population : G. 6000.
Steamers : (i.) Aust.-
Mung. Lloyd. Form. Suod.
(from Smyrna) to Rhodes,
Syrian Coast, Ac. ; f *rtn.
Fri. (from Rhodes) to
Stn>rna. (II.) Puntaleon
Co. Steamers of Syrian
and Islands lines each touch
oner a fortnight.
Lrshki, 888.
Levkopoda, 866.
I.hugapp, 811.
Lija (k.). 948, 847.
Luk*si, 49.
Limika, 860.
LIMNI (a.), 846, 847, 848.
Population : G. 34,000 ;
T. 26uo.
Consulate t Consular
Agent, LamMiis.
X.
Machar, 170, 166,
Macron K si. 69.
Madah, 898.
Madatapa Lake, 881.
Madek, 841.
Maden Bklisi, 167.
Madkr.Kh1r, 804, 907.
Mader Shehk, 168.
Madcn Su R., 866 .
Mai>er-i-Silau, 840.
Madha-vark, 881.
Madrak, 881, 847.
Mapum Mounds, 897.
Maeander, Plain of Ike, 160^
170.
Magara KhIr, 808.
Maghpour, 46.
Maohra, 184, 1|8, 869, 870,
978.
Magraba Dagk Ml., 849.
Maiiidasht, 886.
Makidatht Plain, 886.
MaiimOp Keui, 146.
MakmUd iMtgk Ml., 90.
MahmOd-Ullaii, 886.
Maiiun, 841.
Mairut, 848.
Maiuan Tower, 188.
Maimul, 69.
Marara, 864.
Makbik, 886.
M A KIR- DIRER, 146.
MALI ESDI, 66. e
station : Anatolian Ely. ,
Malkajir, 98, HQ.
Male has, 884. A
Malota, 840.
Malput Dagk JW-, 868.
Maltezar*, 864.
Malthitrh, 897.
Majcarhatur f (R. V
869*
Mamak Ova Plain, 168. '
Mamas, 914, 919.
Mamadikli, 877.
Mammas* r, 168.
Mamurarka, 867. •
Mamurji Kales, 176.
Mardalue, 680.
Makdama, 104. • *
Mardamados, 868, 864*
Hotel t M. de la Patrie
— lair, a Greek oaft and
eatlng-huuar.
Houses : Quarters can he
. obtained In private bootee.
Railway : Station uo
Smyrna - Ala - abehr Fly.
8 trains daily each way.
Branch' line to Sums, one
train daily.
Bank : Imperial Ottoman.
Maritas (r.), 68.
Mdniyae Geul Lake, 88,
M anjekar, 888.
Manjilik, 860.
Marjusun, 60.
Manola, 878.
Munola Plain, 871.
Mansu*iirm, 846.
Marxarikh, 841 ,
Marrixsrt (k.X 88U
Mara, 801.
Manama, 876,
Digitized by
ISDKX AND DIRECTOR?
403
Maraqha, 116.
Maraud, 881
Maras. I7ti
Maras* + (eA 90S, Ml 870,
. §71* 175, 876, 877, 887, 809.
Maro, 881
Ptopalatfaas 13,000 (T.«
Ar. ; Ch. ; &>
Maboil, Sift,
iforft Dagk Mt H til.
Mariaxchil Kalbh, 171.
Mdrjam Dagk ML, SOI.
Markara, tt7.
Mar^tza, 871
Marmaricr f (*.), 117, 171.
flarmarice Bay , 978.
Max Mattki, 89l
Marxir, M4.
MAKarvAM f (r. f.), 18, 81,
88 .
MatcUlaX Dagk ML , 1S7.
MasrrtJL, Mi.
Mdthilek Balt Mar*, 888 .
Maslug Daffk Ml ., 81.
Jftudn flap* iff., U,
Mastayro, 108, 88.
Marta a a, 817.
M ASSARIX, 878.
Mattdrin Plain, 871, * •
Matiat Dert, 804.
Massoha, 180.
Mataeajie, 888.
JTatrfca, Pbtmfdfii of , 11
Matar, 888.
MaTRDIW (K.% 888.
Maxorri? (k.), 880.
M koala KuntuRiA, 188.
Mkoak, 888.
Mbh^krt Bet KrUi, 870.
Mekm. fjlk Su /?., 888. .
Mchrrkom, 818.
Mriafarkix,941 *. .
Muidlc, 880, 881, 888. '
MklaJhjrrd (r.), 881, 888,
880, 818.
Melos Gorge, 171.
Mblroos, 188, id.
Mrlrj; 171.
MtUkvtm Plateau, 48.
foUndit Ova Plain , 108. ,
MRLRTf (if.), 40.
JAM Irmak JL, 44, 48.
'kskiu (a), 888.
Mslu Kruh 817, 818.
Mblim Trpr, 171, 177.
MbratoaT? (il), 174.
Jftnaepal CM JL, 171
Mbvmua.111.
MendeUa, Golf of, 118, 170.
| Menders Choi IL, 67, 101.
MgrEMENf (s.), 78, 07, 80,
88 . 100 .
lUUvtrt Station on
8am*-AlMhdir lino.
Owl t Mamba Bon,
Mrkkmkx Boon ax. 78.
Merakli Kata, 88.
MrIcdokhora, 01.
Mandat Daffk ML, 188.
M KXTKSftE, 87.
Mrrax, 188.
Merumana JL, 809, 800,
Merd Irmak JL, 88.
Mbrdbx-All 88.
Mrrxk, 888.
Merjan 8a JL, 880.
Mrbjumrk. 880.
Mtrmere Dagk ML, 81.
Mermtrs Gent Lake, 88, 88.
Menkid 9a JL, 880, 888.
Mkbsic, 8.
KERSIHAijB.), 181 101,
100, 107, 171, 171 188.
Population: T. TIM; G.
4ooo. Total, 1S.YO0.
OomiUOi : British Vico-
Otmssd, A. Df Hen, Eeq. (aloo
for Adana and Taiaoa);
V. S. Acting Vice-Consul,
N.&Daraa.
Hatala : IT. Cumussi,
good; H. Xia Pasha, fair;
H. ds Chypu, fair.
Btaamara : (L) AusL-
ITnng. Lloyd, rortn. Tuee.
(from Smyrna) to AWxan-
dria 5 fortn. Wed. (from
Alexandria) to Smym*.
(IL) Mtstaoeries Baritones.
Fortn, Wed. (from Smyrna)
to Alexandria; form. Hot.
(from Alexandria) for
Smyrna. (III.) Pantaloon
CO. Seerr Ttaura. to
Smyrna, calling at Inter*
mediate porta, (le.) JfciA-
stto, irregular from and to
Smyrna and Egypt, (v.)
Bui'S A. Minor (h., Hrego-
lar to and from Egypt,
(ri.) Knotts PrineeLine.
rortn. to and from Man*
cheater, fltre let elaaa, £11.
(elL) Egyptian (Kkedimeh).
Every Sand, from «nd to
^ and 8yrian eoaat.
iff To Tarsus and
Two ualna dally
Adana.
each way.
Oonyy aneea : Arabas,
abutit P.48. Morses, about
P.14 per diem.
Paet i Bnperial Ottoman ;
Austrian ; French.
Banks t Imperial Otto •
man; Ckristman csftl*.
Oafts : AtMonasse ; Nader.
Doctors : Boo: Georgia d-
kis.
Rhine: fail; Bar tod k.
Mkrt, 10.
Mbryaxbx, 888.
Mervda*t Plain, 888.
IfRBXXrtK. 11
M Srtima n Ckai IL, 881
Mbbakaobo, 878.
M Baffin All 808, 811.
Mrmikorrd, 80S.
Mtano-i-M adrr-i- Sdlimav,
888 .
MmxnfRH, 887.
■S80P0TAKIA. Books on.
80S: Climate, **»: Com-
mnntcaUon with, 879 j Geo-
graphy of, 878 ; Hiet,»ry of,
880: butflt for, 888 ; People
of, 888.
Mrbsabla. 888.
Mesmgit ML. 88, 181, 118,
178.
NutlIM.
Mrzrrr, 841
Memtla Sa JL, 178*
Mrxirril or Mbzreh f (f.V
841 871
Miamdax. 891
Miaxrr. 811
Mias Kotal, 881
M IAS lxk. 881
MicmcH, 881
Micra KncnoRiA, 188.
Midas, I ona or, 148.
Mumat f (R-), 881 941.
•
M1RHAILX. M.
Station ; Mamlaa - 6oau
line.
MiRitAiLorA, 911 881, 888.
Milaokrd, ttt.
Milan Su JL, 1 1
MiUbf (k.> 111 117.
Milrbl 818.
Milla KmIm, 811.
Mixah, 841
MixarA, 188.
MlRRRA r 887. .
Miramara Moxastrrt, 841
Mira mur, 887.
Mran Ckai IL, 811
M moron nr, 881 881.
Mwm (n.y, 181 181
Musis f (s.% 181 871
M m lex a. III 81 88, 801.
(5ee«KASTBa)
Moobar. 841
Digitized by L^ooQle
404
INDEX AND DIRECTORY*
MO g A HMI EA H (P.^ia),
OonroUUj Vice-Consul,
W. McDouall, Esq.
Mokun Cent Lake , 92.
Mokk, M4.
Mokri Dagh Hit., 221.
Mollah SuUtlMAM, 222.
MOLIVO (s.), «M, 66, 62.
Steamers : (I.) Cnurtji et
Cie. Weekly (from Coast as <
tlnople) to Smyrna, and
(from Smyrna) to Constan-
tinople. (in Make Ate,
Korin, to and from Smyrna
and tfcustaniinople.
Mon astir, 119.
MON A VAX KAHVEH, 82.
Station: Smyrna-Ala-
shehr Rly.
MoxoLmioe, 878.
M o NOUTuoa Cara, 871.
MORALI, 101, 110.
Station : Sokia branch
line, S. and A. Rly., for
Magnesia ad Maeau ilium.
Mokio, 853.
Moesux, 228.
Mosti, 218.
MOBUX t (v. r.), 80S, 888,
240, 218, 292, 291, 296, 297,
298, 299, 200, 801, 801, 806,
807, 821. 822.
Population : 40 , 000 .
Consulate : Vice-Consul,
Nimrod lta»eara.
Mtssjista, 218.
Muazsm, 801.
MVDANIA f (k.), 60.
Bteamers : Thrice a week
to and from Constantinople.
Railway t T t ains twice a
day to Brtua.
Muoasu, 18.
Muduukh, 211.
Mudros Bay , 817.
MuDUJtlc t (K. 6, 11.
Muohallku, 85.
MOohla f (a.), 116, 117.
Muosi, 250.
Muhajir Ksui, 269, 270.
Muiiauch f (k.), 61.
Muuammad Au Ksupew,
288.
Muiiammau Uky Ouiilu, 11.
MuaAUUAn KhIm, 291.
Muiiaumup Skraya, 2d.
Mujur (m.), 55.
Mukeir, Mounds qf, 818.
Muklus Kaleh, 812,
Muku«(k.)l2U.
Muloue, 211,
Moli a Hassar, 285. . .
Mumji KhIr, 201, 206.
Mungkor Su R., 821. . :
Mur Ifamam Chai R., 856.*
Murad Ckai R., 261.
Murad Dagh MU., 121. 60,
Murad KhIx, 208.
Murad Su R., 288, 280,
242, 218, 217, 261.
Murchakhab, 840.
Murchi. 228.
Mur dad Plain, 15.
Murdan Su R., |2.
Murghab Plain, 888.
Murtana, 171, 172.
Muskileii, 810.
Musoi, 250.
881.
M usii f (a. ), 212, 248. 9M, SOI.
Math, Plain qf, 212.
Musuallam-Kaucsi, f 31.
.M uskonrsi (k.) v 69, 67.
Muskova, 211.
Musluk BogKas Pass, 17.
MUTt(s.X 160,158,l77.
Population : T. tuott.
Myca.lt Range, 110, 170. *
MycaU, Strait of, 861.
H.
Naoirdr. 888.
Naihkh, 899.
Nakr Adhem /?., 801, 806.
Nahrayar, 816.
Nakr Diala R., 918.
Nakr Kkalas Canal, 801.
Nakr Tkatkar R., 208.
Nahrvan Canal, 885.
Naim, 848.
Najar, 878.
Najar Dagh ML, 876.
Nakiiicuewan, 889.
Nakuisker, 811.
Naksh-i-Urjeb, 836.
Naksh-i-Rustam, 886, 885.
Nalkevan R., 881.
NU Kbui, 8.
NIlu Khar (k. f.), 6, li
Namlam Ckai R^ 116*
Naxegaks, 887. ...
NaoQlmbaz, 868... .■
Nam, 188. 181. .,
Nabir, 886.
Narix Mokastxrt, 887,841.
Marin R., 801.
Narimax, 819, 818.
Nariman Su R. 212.
N^rli, 62,72. - .
Naru-dkrr, 79.
Naru IsxRLssi, 66,
Narsa!d^259, 226.
NasakIrh f (*.), Ill, 212. ■
Nazaraya, 225.
Nosik Geul Lake, 251.
KAZLI + (x.
107. 118.
r.X 162,91,68,
Railway : Station, Aldto-
Dtneir Rly.
Bank : Imperial Otto-
man.
Nazlu, 888.
Nebi Ckai R., 888.
Nrdi Yuri s, 880, 801.
Nrbuxar Yaila, 886.
Nbfkz Ksui, 86, 81.
Nrtm Oisxih, 814.
Nrouu, 896.
N till 1STA MAR, 842.
NSJEF (x.X 866, 810, 818.
Consulate i Consular -
Nawab M. Ibrahim
NkmrOd KaLrsi, 84.
NkkIta, 856.
Nkmizi, 169, 168.
Neorakas, 872, 874.
Nkrdiyam, 288.
Neri, 888.
Nhhib, 218.
**•
HIOAMAfK.).***.
Population: G. 8566 ; T.
100 .
Communication t Kalk
from Scaia Nora or
Nir (R.). 89, If, 72, 90.
Nif Ckai R., 82, 66, 90.
Niff er , Mounds </, 818.
Mi
CT.»
Nikbrh, 216.
Nikkakk Su R., 211, 212.
Nik... f u, t, M.tT.
Nw.Sn, m, Ml, tot, m.
a Population t 25,000
Nijri Axhti, 229.
Digitized by
INDEX AND DIRECTORY »
405
Nimrfid Dagk ML, NS, 9M
tse.
Nirrvrh, 964, 940, H0.
Xinexxk, Mounds of, 906.
Nirze, 99.
Nva A oaei. 191.
NwiBTHt (k.% 999, t99.
NI8TR0 (h % 966, 171, 967.
Steamers: Pantaloon Co,
Form, to and from Smyrna.
NIt, 174.
Nizah, 99.
Nuob, 997.
Norchuk, 997.
Norkiakh, 916.
Ndrzkjz (k.% 994.
NO REDD I It, 991.
NCSH-ABAD, 941.
Nuvarar, 999.
Obrdm, 166.
ODXKIBHf (k.\ 90, 91, 99.
Railway : One tram dally
to and from Smyrna.
Oduimilkr, 949.
Orr (k.\ 900.
Ojik, 919.
OKTAr, 47.
Ola Kaya Past, 971.
Olba, Rmxa or, 196. .
Olbaoa, 190.
Oi.ti, 919, 916.
OUi 8u IL , 919.
Old-borld 147.
Olcrmar, 147.
Olympus, Galatian, 6/
Olympus Ml* 16, 999, 996.
Ox A LA, 47.
OXAIilK, 10.
Ox a* Kaot, 969.
omurlu, 109.
Wj.
Orix, 960,
Oxak Ada, 119.
t (t) Jti tssian,
■very 8end. to Bat4m, and
every Kii. to Conatan tinople,
calling at Intermediate porta.
(II.) Oomrtfi at Ci a, and
MaiksOso, call once a week
on tbelr way to and from
Constantinople. (Ml.) AuH.-
'■ Ifuna. Lloyd and Me$9afferit$
Maritime* call occaskmally.
Feet: Imperial Ottoman;
Bussian.
Ordok, 990.
Orbxoutk Fourtair, 199.
Orta, 990, 991.
OrjcCt, 61.
ORLorr, 997.
Orontes R* 976.
Ororar, 996.
Orta*, 996.
Orta-kursk, 49.
ORTAROHX, 109.
Station: Akttn
Rly.
Orta Kbui, 66, 969.
Orta KhIr, 999.
Ortakutu, 199.
Ortalo, 997.
Ortplo, 976.
Ort-tuzi, 911.
OmiLARiBHt (*.). 196,
191,
06MANJIR (r. r.\ 19, 199.
Pepnlatien: T. me « Ar.
1060 .
Obmar Krdi, 7, 11, 99.
Otluk Bel Pass, 999.
Otajik (R.% 10, 90, 911, 996.
Otajik Scala, 177.
Ozbko, 949.
OsmuskSn 1L, 49.
Paeu*ML,n.
Paj, 949, 969.
Paiwom, 947.
Parotar, 994.
Palabogaotm, 960, 964.
Palabofou, 949, 949.
Palaboftu, 969.
Palamut (>.) 94.
Paaaiwa Onrzux. 96L
Palarka, 964.
Palantoken Dagk Ml* 996,
999,991,941.
Palas (r.X 66, 69.
Palatia, 111.
Paxjroar, 999.
Palr (k.% 960.
Palmyra, 909* 811, 919.
Palm + (k.), 949, 949, 947.
PambPk Kalrbi, 109.
Pambdk Ova Plain , 161, 166.
FANDXRMA 1 (n.), 69.
Hotel: Jtyemian.
Steamers: MaMsise Cb,
Dally tn snmmert thrice a
week In winter to and from
Constantinople.
Parjdbbt, 919.
Parjwir, 999.
Panormos, Barbour, 967.
Pardo, 991.
Pafabu IsKBLRRt, 96, 94.
Para dir, 176, 160.
FARADISX, 99.
Station: Smyrna- AkUa
Rly.
Parakila, 964.
Paraor, 196.
Pabort, 917.
Parma Rotx, 949.
Parsa, 90.
Pasarodr, 941.
Pasra Kboi, 96, 146.
pARRA-TARK, 997, 960.
Passin Plain, 919, 999, 990.
Patara, Rutrb or, 196, 171.
PATDTO (».), 96L 969.
Pepnlattsa i O. 9966.
Steamers t Pantaloon CO,
Fortn. to and from Smyrna. ‘
Xalk from Leroi or from
Ttganl la Samoa.
Paw-Tat. 966.
Pathos, ass Patiro, 179,
Patrotz, 994, 996. -
Patlara, 169.
Patmslu or Prltrrb, 977#
Prlo, 997, Ml.
Pbkabxbr, 949, 904.
Polu+Jta Tolley, 940,
Prlyrrrr, 977.
PSRARTM, 991.
Prrrbk, 919.
Penmek So 1L, 919.
Pbmcmxm Yaila, 194>
09, 97,99, 197, 19 9.— A cr e
FunjiiCKObSM 994,699.
Digitized by
Google
400
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Pkrik, 181,
Pxrkekafax, 804.
Perot, 878.
Pxurk, Sits or. 868.
P cub Era us, 886.
PERSIA— Antiquities of, 888;
Uuukaou, 886; Climate of,
886 ; Geography of. 883;
Hiatorr uf, 888 ; People of,
884; Religion of, 886 ; Sport
in. 886 ; Ti availing iu, 886.
PE JIT AO, 831.
Peutek (a.). 860, 868.
PXTKGREK, 818, 811.
Petra, 864.
Pkchbxkx, 86.
Pll AN a k, 366.
Phakes, 878.
Pmasaj, 848.
Phengdri Jit., 849.
Phobia, 88 , 69.
Phrygian Monument* , 196-
Phuksau, 897.
Pkumi , Island if, 869, 174
1*H VL(A, 864.
PlGEHI, 815.
Pcjcqav (n.), 866. 861.
1'ika CnirruE, 868, 864.
Piu Aiimeh, 808, 80S.
Piuasoc, 866.
PutE, 886.
PlUEJKK, S3.
PlUEKKU, 179.
Pir-i-Ba&t Bridge , 801.
Piu-i-Kalaxi, 840.
Pirivj Su It., 180, 181.
Pir Oman Gudrun lit., 886.
PtItSOLAN, 880.
Piru, Hock of, 887.
Piacow, 867.
Piskder Plain , 884.
Pitkmisk Kalesi, 148
Piyab (K.), 191, 198.
Plaka Cai*«, 847.
Platava, 4, 801.
Platana Bay, 4.
Plata via, 878.
Plovaui (*.), 868 .
Pluk, 809, 806.
POCHKNZ, 818.
PODAUA, 188. '
Poo HAM 18, 838.
PolUAJiE, 66 .
POLATLI. 18, 17, 66.
Station: Anatolian Rly.
PouehhItob, 868 , 868 .
Polim, 876.
Wear It., 886, 886, 888.
PUear Yattey, 314.
Pobbot, 878.
Pouto Cavauebe, 177.
Porto Iebo or Ouvixrl 868,
863.
Pouto Kalians, 868.
IVr Avra, 866.
I’UTAMOB, 868.
Potma, 364
Pori, 888.
Putuki Stream , 861.
Puofutlia, 878.
PUOYEK9AL ISLAVIS 177.
P8ARA, 864.
Population: 6.3600,
PaiToe, 878.
Pulat, 871.
Puli, 841.
PUL-l-DALAK, 841.
Pul-i.Waugun, 881.
Pulk, 863.
Pidk Su R., 868.
PuLUuoa CkS), 860.
Punar Dagk Mi., 819.
Punsuluk Dagh Ml ^ 819.
i jPumkii, 46.
Pamia Bay, 847, 846.
Purtak Su R., 10, 16, 66, 17.
68, 186.
Pusatli, 873.
Puhkeii, 806.
Puzeu. 886, 886k. 886.
P VI AKA, 878.
Pyli, 366.
Rash-Oohlit 861.
Ravli, 10. , . > ,
Ratav, 381.
Ratat, 881.
Ram. 886.
Hkovav (*.), f46, 946.
Rkbaka, 880.
Rabat, 840.
I R a beak Hobmuzd Monas-
tery. 897.
Rabeit Jslakiw, 846.
Raked Dagk Ml., 180, 181.
Rahova Kalbh, 899.
Rak-i-Sultani, 71*, 880.
Rakoa Plateau, 886, 846.
Raiak, 841.
Rakka (k.), 897, 896, HR
Ramadikh f (x.), 900.
Rania (k.), 894.
| Rania Plain, 894, 999.
I Uae el* Aiv (x.); 891, 699*
RX8HT, 817.
OwimI; H. L. Churchill,
K*q.
Rszax, 886.
RHODES % (v.), 171, 860-
876.
Population (of island) i
G. 31,000 ; T. 6*00; Jews,
3300. ToUl, 81,006.
Oonaulato : Vice-Oea tuM,
J. F. Jouea, Kaq.
Hotala : U. des Stranger*,
fair; B. d* Rhoden B. da
Constantinople.
Steamers : (i.) Auet.-
I/ung. IJotfd. W-ekljr, al-
ternate) v Wed. and Tbura.
from Alexandria to Smyrna ;
every Sund. to Alexandria,
alternately by Meraina end.
Syrian oueat, and Cyprus
end 8yrian eoaai. (JO
MaksAse, IrreguUr. (111.)
Pant el eon Cm We khr to
end from Smyrna and Mer-
aina, tourhinR at Intense-,
dint* ports. (»v.) Joty Yic-
tori* Cm Weekly, aaaae
route as Pantaloon Co. (▼.)
Uamiduk. Weekly to end
lrom Smyrna touching at
mo-t o tit* Islands.
Oonveyanoee : Dtreet,
about P. 18 per diem ; mute,
P. 13 ; donkey, P. 6.
Poet: Imperial Ottomans
Austrian.
Telegraph: Imperial Otto-
man ; Eastern Telegraph
Co.
Deetora: Diyenie; Tita-
I it ; Pignatorei Caramkg-
ros.
Ruxt, Sl|.
Rianv|4. 8 U.
Ritbi, 109.
Riva, 1.
RIZA f (a.). 909,4,819,811,
816.
a week to and from Con-
stantinople. and intennedl aio -
porta.
Rizvek, 868.
Rosa fa, 896, 918.
ROWAVM7lt(K.), 881,868.
Sowandus Chat R., f 881, 886.
Digitized by
Google
mi)*r and MKwfrtmr;
407
Rubahi, 949. '
Kubat. Ml,
RbkAf.KABTM, I 98, 999.
Kudbax, 880. *
Ruu-KHixBH-i-DtntDf, HI.
Run Zabd, 880.
Ruknaltad R., 886 .
Rex-mom, 36, 87.
Rumkilat, 993,
BeM-KAOCH (k.X 9M, 999.
BCm-Srkai, 909.
RUSURKA SAlicTUABT, Tut,
8 .
8ABANJA, 9.
Sabanja Lake , 9.
8abkha (m.),.88S, ,
Sabla, 899.
Sabbak KhJLb, 908.
8*t£OR. KM, lot, tt», Ml
8aoakloo, 918.
8aqhrb,919^
Saghrcidan, Valley, 990.
8AomLAB 4 88.
8aoxi, 849. g ' 1 J
8AOMAK/894,
Sagmanfiauge, 804..
Sahand ML, 816.
8ARBA.998.
SaiiMiVad, ***, ill
8a ! DAB, 886.
8ATMLAB, 9.
8ai GechR7, Ui .
St. BAKTWOLOlUElr'i IfOBAi-
TKBt, 889.
«;A****t. 894, 869. 970,
871, 979.
St. GRdttOBs, 896. •
Sr. Is i oo bos, 879.
tt. Soft* Ml., 879.
SAAitAB, 997, 800.
R„ 990.
BakIuba Fobtbkm. 10t.
8aechk, 979.
8at.au. 999.
Salarko, 979. •
saiarub t (>■). mi an.
Salavtya, 999.
SaJamurt Boghas, 199.
8alai Riot, 149.
Salabi Kalsh, 999, Ml*
Saida Gaul Lake, 190.
BAUKLI f (k.). 99, 1M.
Railway : Station <
Smyrna-Ala-Sb' hr Rly. j
sd« tain dally etch way.
8alna§. 999, 999.
Salmas lHain, 990*
Sal-oomlu, 919.
8am, 979.
8amaba (e.), 90S, 901.
SaIiawiA. AM.
Sambika Ridge, 979.
Sammabdrbb, 194.
8a MORA, 999.
P.imUtUa (oflAtand) , g
47,000.
O on eal a t e : Consul , D. L
Marc, Eaq., at Veihy.
HotaU t Tmo, Indifferent,
Steamers to Vatby. tv
Just- /rung. Lloyd. Ever;
8nnd. from and to Smyrna.
Plraena. and Trieste. (IL
Fortn. (from Egypt) u
Smyrna, and (frnmBrayraa]
to Syrian Cum* and Egypt.
(III.) Mahsise, IrragulS^w
and from Omatanttnopls and
Crrtr. (It.) Ram idiot,
krery FH. to and from
Stavrna and the UUnd a.
(r.) Pantaloon Cb. Every
Tuoa. to Add from Smyrna
and the Islands. (t|.) Jolw
Victoria C*>. Twko a week
to ami from Smyrna and the
Ialanda.
Eaik from peak Nora
1 Ooanya^oat Mules, by
agnomen*.
Fam i Imperial Ottoman ;
SBMot local; Austrian;
French,
Telephone < Throngbont
the island. •
Oafta : ^Oonat Dimitri,
Mamati, Pandelt, Sttfouli
paulpet MandqfounL
BAKOTHRAZX („.* 949,
• Popalatioa: sooo.
Kaib: rrom Dede-agach
f* bn-); fiom Tbaao or
Imbro.
8*J«wt (».), tH, M», 177,
, 88 $. •* • »
Poimlatiea: U. 6000 1 T.
FopalmtUa
w>0o ; Ar.
11,000.
Antral : Boat from
to abore, P. 74 per
Bri
IT.
Total,
1: British Cm-
tular- Agent, H. da On-tamos
r. 8, Consular- Agent, la
Chevalier H. de Caravel.
HotaU: H, Concordia t
IT. Oriental/ both indif-
ferent.
Staamero : (f.) amA-
I*ung. Lloyd, Retry Moo.
to Keruand, TraMaood, and
Batfini ; and to In. boll and
QmafantlnopW*. (II.) Rus-
sian. Every Sand, to
Hatdm. and every Sat. to
OnaumlnopU, calltng at
tn ermedlau pone. (III.)
Mtssageries MarUimm.
Fortn. Mon. to Kera s an d ,:
Trebdood, and Batdm ; and
to Constantinople. (|v.)
rseWInicnjA Bat*
to Karaaaod, TmbUood, and
fiatftm \ fcrto. FH. to Cmk
atantlnople. (r.)OomrUiet
Cie. Rwry Bond, to Tvatd-
aond, and every TbaTa. to
C onotantiwpU, calling at
Intmnadlata porta, (vi.)
Mahsise. Every Than, to
Rita, and every Tnaa. to*>m-
•UntlnopU, calling at Inter-
mediate port*, (vll.) Am.
lish and Italian StommZZ
call occaMoaally.
. Oonvayanaea: indei,
MeJ. l-j ptr diem. Raraca,
P. 10-18.
Fa* : Imperial Ottoman;
Austrian; French ;
sian.
OamaHdes,
SAMBf a Kalbm, Ilf. •
8ABDAX, 199.
Sardcru f (K.\ 149, 146*
8 abjar Kalrax, 79, 199.
Sabta, 900 .
Sanla Maria Cape, 999.
SeonU-cva Plain, 999*
8aes or Sadce ML, 949.
8 ab, 999.
8 abambrt, 91.
8 a a Aai.v. 9H.
Sakdabapad, 917, 997*
SABDAtirr, 994.
Bari Burd Mts^ 999.
Sari ChaiR., H, lit, H7,
Sarichicheh Dagk Ml,, 999*
I Sarichicheh Hu R., 999*
Sari Degh ML, 19
|j 8 a 9 I-iujixa, 99 . *'•
Digitized by L^ooQle
408
JNDBX ANQ DIRECTORY,
Sabi Ralkh, 81.
8a roc amish (p.X 816, 816,
. 888 .
Qaki-Kkxkr, 116.
Sari Kkdi, 66.
8arilar, 178, 876.
Sakiksak Keurui, 67.
Sakjoqhlan, 60.
Sak-i-Puiv-i-Zohab, 886.
Saris, 866, 841.
8abiskki, 198.
Saris Vails y, 878.
Saris Su it, 171, 868, 869,
878, 874.
Sarltja Springs , 864.
Sasha, 886, 888.
ftART, 88, 86, 90.
Station : Smyrna - Als -
abebr lily, for Sardis.
Accommodation can be
obtained at the Station.
Sabt, Necropolis or, 88, 88,
Sabt-idru, 161.
Sarti Keui, 844.
SAXU-KhIhLI, 84.
Station : Manias - Soma
Hoe.
Sarumsaklu (ft.), 60 .
Sarumsak Su it, 87, 60, 68.
Sarvuttah, 841.
8as~ova, 84.
Sasun, 848.
Satao it, 884.
Snoauta Choi it, 88.
8avrh, 888.
SavrIn, 146.
Savrdn it, 189, 874.
Sazax, 176.
8AZILAR, 17. 68.
Station: Anatolian Rly.,
to r Slvri-biassr.
Saxli, 66.
MALA H0VA % (*). 98,
110, 111, 170.
OoniaulaU : Vice-Consul, J.
Alexarchi.
Bteamars : Pantaloon Co.
Weekly to and frum Smyrna
and Meriina.
SOALOPETRA, 878.
MARPAVT0 f (k.\ 876.
Population : (1. bOOO.
Stas mors : Pantaloon Co.
Fortn. to and from Smyrna
calling at Islands.
8cio: sot Khio.
Scopat it, 14.
Soopklos, 868.
Ssuha, 887.
Srim Quasi (x,), 144, ISO.
8SIDI KEUI(nA 98.
Railway : Four trains
dally to and from 8myrna.
Skiuii.au, 146.
Skiuilau Yaila, 188.
Sriui-shkhr (k.), 166.
Skilkn, 871.
SRJRRLU, 8.
Skkkli, 88.
Srkknik, 898.
Srkiz Rurku, 116,
Skkumis, 889.
8ELEFXB+ (s.), 177, 168,
171, 180, 188, 188.
Steamers: Pantaloon Oo.
Weekly to and from Smyrna
and Mcnlna.
Sklksak, 881.
Srlimti, 176, 174, 176.
Selki-Skrai, 149.
SsUi pel Pass, 176.
Sklman PaK,+ 818.
SklmK, 168, 169.
Skmarik, 914, 816.
Skuikasha, 878.
Semii^ 846.
Sempas Su it, 189, 874.
Skmtoxofea, 889.
Sunk Kkui. 44.
Skhirokht (n.), 147,
Scpetli Su R., 99.
SRRAif(K.), 886, 881.
Seraijik (n.), 868.
SERAI KSUI f (k.), 108,
88 .
Station r Aldln - Dineir
Rly.
Srroiirm, 816.
Skruasiit, 888.
Serdorria Pass , 881.
Sriuuiik, 876.
8wff,f^s.>, 946, 840, 941,
Skrtash, 886.
Ssrtash Valley, 886.
8krtxash, 118.
Sbruj (k.), 891.
8ks0nk, 869.
Sotos Den, 910.
8BULCX, 188, 146.
Sevan Monastery, 888,
Ssvanga Lake, 889.
Sevuioih, 841.
Seven Chu roues. Tub, 107.
Seven Stupors, Mt . qf the, 180.
Shabin Kara-hissar, 48, 4,
46, 47.
SUAHABAD, 817.
Shah-eaqui, 888, 886, .
Shah-geldi, 888. .
Shah in Katasi, 871, .
Share, 868, 64, 868, 870, 874.
Shaur-arad, 848. .
Sh ahrabah, f 386.
SUAIIMMTANKN, 917.
Suauk-Kisula t (a-X 40, 60.
Shahvkrdian, 947.
SUAKAE-AB, 890.
Shakrae Kbupbi, 60,
Shalamzae, 890.
Shaldisuik, 814.
8halil, 880.
SlIAMANA, 807.
Skamaspur Tekks, The, 80.
Sham, 881.
SHAXLI, 108, 68.
Station: Aldin - Dineir
Rly.
Shamuxis, 880.
Shapur, Ruins at, 894.
Skapur R., 884.
Sharab-KhInkh. 886.
Skarian Su R., 888.
Shatra kl-Amara, 814.
SHATRA KL-MUNTAEIK f (e.X
Shattae (k.X 941.
Skatt R., 914.
Skatt cl- Arab it, 814, 886.
Shatt d-Hai Canal, 614.
SkatrR., 881.
Siiauta. 886.
Shbdadi (n.X 866.
8HErik, 868.
Skekrisor Plain, 804.
Sheikh Adi, 840, 897.
Sheikh Ahmed, 888.
Sheikh Alt 'JTkkkx, 86,
Sheikh Amir, 888.
Skeikk Arab Vkai it, 107,
SiiRiKii Attar, 888.
Sheikh Chora n, 64.
8hkikh Ghana, 887,
Sheikha, 888.
Shkikhan, 848.
Skeikk Iva Jft., 888.
Sheik Ja’abkx, 880.
Sheikh KhIn, 807, 898.
Skeitan Boghas Pass, 81.
Skeitan Den Gorge, 178.
Skeitan Tokusku Pats, 847*
Skdidun Bumu, 171.
Shkhudian (k.), 888.
Skemiram Rod Canal, 888,
887.
Shin, 846.
8hexbkt, 848.
Shkiuat el-Dkida, 90S*
Sukrip KhAn, 896, 801.
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INDEX AND DIRECTORY*
409
8 MIC ML!, fit.
8MMMMA1, Ml, Ml.
bniLMt, Ml.
Shilb, 9.
Saibawa, tk
Shik-arad, IM.
8niRAZ t 995, 991, 999.
8 hii*k, 111, Ilf.;
8HUU8K Tkpb, 190.
Skisk KMn R., 917.
Smsd-ntM, Ml.
Shor R., Ml.
Shobubak, Ml.
8huan-dagh Ml., 999.
8HUVUMBOL, 999.
SlIULdlSTAK, <99.
Bkuskara Su R., 919.
8ntmHAivx t 9M.
Siiostax, 999, 990, 991.
SfAH«DSHXlf, 916.
Sjawa, 979.
Siehanli Ova Plato, 119.
8IDAKA, 999.
Bidi-vakas Dagk iff.* 919.
Xidtt ChaiR., 171.
Siohajik, 109, 109.
Bigri Cape, 914.
3<h*n H. t 196, 167, 979.
Sima r a, Mi.
Oikhik, 919.
8IKHKBM, 9M. '
biLLifi, 199, 1M.‘
dlMATt(K.),69.
Simav Choi R., 99.
dlXARICH, 160.
OlXAJflE, 916.
8ixax, *4, til,
Sikjak, 9|9.
StoWAw, 914.
inrjJLX kxui,
Station: Anatolian Bit.
for latano*.
^ikJaji (x.), 9k
SrMJMMLi, 69. . .
Sxxsm, 941.
ra , jB,« 23P (iJ,*,ti.
. Populattsnj T. 4*00; O.
<000. ToUl, 19 00.
Hotel* i One, lndlfforan t.
■ 8Um— t o: (I.) Russian.
Every Sat. to Batfan end
' intermediate porter trery
. Sat. to Ineboll end Conetan-
tinoplr. (||.) Omrtjiei Vie.
Every 8et to Trebtaood end
. Intermediate porta; .trery
• Thor, to Oo— teatlnople.
: (UUMaksdss. Every Wed.
, to Klee; end every T— a. to
Constantinople, celling et
IntermedleU porta. (Iv.)
Aust.-Bung. Lloyd end
!’ Msssageries MariUmas cell
11 . occeolonelly.
Peto t Imperial Ottoman ;
. Russian.
8iqan Jfagk ML, 996, 991,999,
Sin son, 909.
8iM Basax, 916.
Six ba z, 996.
Sirckinar R., Ml.
Surer at («.), 111.
8l«LMMLMR, 190.
SrfexKE, 971.
8tTloBAai, 911.
Populations T. MJOr
Ar. S800 1 O. 1090. Toil
43,100. .
Oo— ulato r U. B. Consul,
M. A. Jewett, M.D.
Ooaveymnete i Aroba, P.
90-40 per diem. Pack-
animals, P. 6-19.
Dootore: Or. Jewett ;\
JCarakln H. Beamy. I
Xki— i Aj>on Agha's I
Casino: Pat jf “ ‘ 1
Gtfi. ^
8rvAeu, 191, 1M.
8ivbjid. 996.
Aeri Dagk Ml., 111.
Stvxr-rneAAX («.), 160,17, 16, |
8kamxias, 9M.
8KA»nBBeH, 199, 944, 999,
Skandertn. Gulf if, 191.
8m li no, 979.
. 8kutaki. |.
BXYRnA (capital of Aklln
Viliyrt). 70-79, 67, 99, 99,
170, 966, 967.1
Fepulnti— (l886)t Moo- 1
***** 69,060, Greek*, 69,600, 1
Jewe, 99,606, Armenians, I
19,666, Proto* ant*. 1
U
Enrage*—, 6666. ’ Total : |
Consulates s British; In
Frank 8treei. , Oemsul-
Pnrellel Street There ere
OonealAtfe of ell the Earn-
peen Powers.
. Arrival: Steamer* enohor
In the Inner port, end ere
boarded on arrival by hotel
end other dragoman*. A
dragoman ahonld be eeleeted
to lend the baggage end peae
h through the 0— tom House,
where e bakkskisk of 1 to 9
franca will amooth the way.
Lending la effected Ine boat
(P. 5-10), end passports
moat be given ap at the
landing-place ; they can be
obtained again from the
office on the lending pier
through the Consulate or
the hotel dragomen. Car-
riages stand on the qoay,
but the hotels ere eo near that
it is better to walk end have
the baggage carried by
porters.
Dep—tvs: The fonnaU-
Mea era tbs seme In i
0— Um Be— s: on the
lending pier.
Betel*: A
1 1 All the hotel* ere
on the quay. Grand Betel,
ST*
franca a day, or 110-16 a
month. In the as— on,
March to May, the price*
are a little higher. H.dsla
VilU, on the quay, over
Loce’e cell, kept by M.
Fragiacotno. Good. French
end Italian cooking; 19
franc* a day ; 940 francs a
month. H. MA lsmndri s,
on the qoay. H. Uonidos,
Greek, near the old *->g*»rh
Drag— muu, or volets da
place, ebook) be obtained
through the landlord* of the
bo<e)a, or through some
European resident. They
are only required for landing
baggage, and for visiting the
Tattlah Quarter and the
baxlw. Terms, 6 franca a
day In the town, and 16
franca a day for an excursion
Into the country.
Ooureyaaoee : — N.B. In
pay bat tram . and railway
mraa, the mejidSeh la worth
P. 96 (silver) ; In paying
carri— e and bone hire and
boat urea, P. 93.
Carriages stand for hire
— the quay, near the hotels,
end et Faaftla. No tariff
char— by agreement,
usually 9-4 franca an how.
Horses; — tariff — 1
charge P. 46 for half a day.
.D— key* stapd for hire
— ar Basme-khineh Station,
end can be ordered through
the hotel porter. They are
much used for exeunt*—
end for the eeoeot of Mount
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410
INDEX AND DIBECTORT;
Paffu. Charge by agree*
mm%\ usually M friace
for half a day.
Boats »m KaOu eta bo
hired el nearly any point on
the abort. No tmrift oberge
by agraeneot.
Treaaweya i There era
two llnee; om einog the
quay (hm tbe J Ctmak to
Point Railway Station (6
motalllks), tbe other from
■ tbe Kanaic to Koga r-j/ali (*
natalities). It la proposed
to extend tbe letter to vfirla
Scele. (N.B. 4 metellike=
P. I sliver).
Reilweya. (1.) Ottoman
■ Railway from Smyrna to
* Aidin and Dineir. Stations ;
Terminus and Oeneral Office
at ike Point; Caravan
Bridge. Tbe main line
which runs to Aysaoluk,
Bpkesus, and then, op the
. valley of the Bfaeander, to
Dlueir, Apamea - Celaene ,
* will eventually be pushed
forward to tbe central
plateau of A. Minor. It la
334 m. loug, and has four
branch lines t (1.) Torbali
* to Balndtr, Tire!), and Odeoi-
lah In the Cayster valley;
(2.) Baluchi k toSokta; (3.)
Uonjell to Deulxll ; (4.)
Sutlej to CLlvrll near ishekli.
There are also * suburban
. lines to Bqjaand Seidl Keni.
Trains : Main line (1st end
3rd class). Two daily to
end from Ephesus ; one daily
to end from Aidin end Nazi! ;
one dally to and from Tireh,
* Sokia, and Dinclr. Subur-
ban: Six daily to end nine
from Bflja ; and three to end
four from 8eidi Keul. An
extra train both ways every
Wed. afternoon. Pares
. flat cla*e), Dioeir, P. 140,
Nazlt, P. 32. Aidin, P. 40,
: Sokia, P. 67, Tireh, P. 46,
Ephesus, p. 36, Buja, P. 4,
Seldl Keui. P. 6. Return
tickets at If single fare.
. The Mejidkh el P. 10.
Luggage : 1st class, 40 okes
(100 lb.); 3rd, 16 okes
(621 lb.). Special trains at
. moderate prices. Rtfrtsh-
. menls. European at Aya-
eoluk Hotol, Gonjell, and
i Dinelr. Turkish, by tHe-
graphing to station-master
* at Turbali, Aidin. Nesli, and
Serai Keul. Horses can be
hired at Aysaoluk to visit
Ephesus or to proceed to
. Scale Nova.
(1.) Smyrna,
Ala-skskr Railway. Station.
Barma-kk&neh (Terminus
and General Office). ’Tbe
main line, which rune up
tbe valley of the Hennus to
Msniaa.8artlls,and Ala-ehabr
( Philadelphia ), Is 106 m.
long. It has one branch
line to Ak-hieaar ( Tkyatira)
an i Soma. Tltere is also a
suburban line to Bomabot
(4» m.).
Trains. Main lisse (1st
and Ind class). Two daily
to and from Manias (Niche
monument); one dally to
and from Ala-ebehr, and to
Ak-hlasar add 8oma. Su-
burban. Eleven daily to end
from ftfnubat; twelve to
and from Gordello ; five to
and frutn Tomaso. Pares (1st
class). Manias, P. 34, Sardis,
P. 64 1, Ah-ahehr, P. 66,
Ak-b laser, P. 68, Soma, P.
82, Burnabat, P. 3. Return
tickets at If single fare.
Mqidtek si P. 20. Luggage ,
1st class, 60 okoe (125 lb,),
id.,, *0 okes (100 lb.). Re-
freshments : Tnrkish at
Manias, Kaasaba, Ala-ebebr,
Ak-hisaar, and Some.
Steamers: Looal ; Oom-
vagnie Ifamutieh. (1.) To
Kura-tasb, Oeux-tepe, Sanjak
Goalie, S. George, and VGrla.
(U^ To Gordello and Bari-
Mediterranean and Ooa st -
ing. — A. Mtssagcries Mari -
times. Office on the quay,
Local Honiecher. (i.) Fortn.
Thhrs. To DanLinelles, Con-
stantinople. and Odessa.
(11.) Fortn. &U. To Piraeus
and Marseilles (ill. ) Fortn.
Sat. To Merama, Syrian
Cosat, Port Said, and Alex-
andria. (iv.) Fortn. Thprs.
To Salonika, Piraeus, add
Marseilles. B. Austro-
Hungarian Lloyd. Office
on quay, Local Photiades.
(1.) Every Tuea. to Chios,
Piraeus, Crete, Zante, Corfu,
and Trieste. (U.) Fortn.
Sat. to Chios, Rhodes,
Cyprus; Syrian Coast and
Alexandria. (IU.) Every
Sat. to Mitylene, Tene-
dos, Dardanelles, Galli-
poli, and Constantinople.
C. Savigasione Generate
Italiana. Office, Parallel
Street, behind tbe landing’
place. (I.) Fortn. Wed. to
Chio, Piraeus, Sicily, aud
Marseilles. (li.) Fortn.
Mon. To Qonstantlnople.
D. Russian Company. Quay,
Local Hooiacber. (I.) Fortn.
Mood, to Dardanelles and
Constantinople. (11.) Fortn.
Thun, to Chio, Syrian
Coast, Port Said, and Alex-
andria. K. Praisstnet et
Cie. Parallel Street, Local
Hun lecher. (1.) Fortn.
Thors, to Piraeus and Mar-
seilles. (ii.S Every Sun.
to Constan'lnople and the
Danube.' P. CourQi et Cie,
Quay, n**ar Inner port. (L)
Every Thun. ‘ to Chio,
Syra, Crete, and Moraine.
(II.) Every Wed. to Mity-
lene, Dardanelles, Gallipoli,
Constantinople, and Trebl-
aond. G. Egyptian Mail
Steamers (KhaSiviek). (I.)
Every 8at. to Mitylene and
Constantinople. (It.) Every
Thun, to Piraeus and Alex-
andria. U. PanheUenic Co.
(I.) Every Wed. to Piraeus,
(li.) Every Fri. to Cooe t a h -
tioople. I. Pantaloon Co.
(I.) Every Fri. to Chio,
Samos. Syra, Kuluk, Kaly**
rono, koe. Bodrdm, Syml, .
Rhodes, Makri, Kalamaki,
Kastellorixo, Finlka, Adalia,
A lays, Atismor, KillodrU,
8el< fke, and Mersina. (II.)
Kvurv Sat. to Mitylene,
Alvali, Lemnos, Salonika.
Kavalla, Porto Lego, and
Dede-agach. (ill.) Every
Moo. to Chio, Cbe»me,
Samoa, Scala-oova, Patinos,
Leroe, Kalymnoc, Koe,
Budr&m, Nisyro, Symi,
Rhodes, and Khalki. (iv.)
Every Toes. to Mitylene,
Alvali, Tenedos, Darda-
nelles, Gallipoli, and Con-
stantinople. J. Hadji Daoud
Farkouh. Same lloee as
preceding.
Forwarding Agents : Tbe
Steamship Co.'s Agencies.
Gasworks, at the Point.
Hairdresser: 8. Garxm-
f adides. Parallel Street.
lee Xanufaetory. On
road to Burnabat, near tbe
Point.
Outfit. ProvisJoDe : T. B.
Rigo, L. Nalpas. Camp
Necessaries : Bon March*,
Comptoirs parisisns.
Goal Merchants t C •
WhittaU A Co., Parallel
Street.
Banka: Imperial Otto-
man Bank , Local Baltasxi,
R. dee Verreriee, near tbe
Basin. Credit Lyonnais,
Frank Street.
Bourse: On tbe quay,
near the Inner port.
Digitized by
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INDEX AND DIRECTORY;
411
, Cook's Tourist Ottos mi
Grand Hotel.
Baths: There are aereral
„ TStrkisk Bath*, bat they are
not much osed by Europeans.
Sa U-waUr Bath* at the
Point, at Geus-tepe, and
GoideUo.
Brasseries: Cramer,
Local Photlades on the quay;
local and German news-
papers. Oorinna, B. de
Strasbourg, opposite Moore's
Pharmacy. Procops at the
Point.
British In stit utions :
Hospital for 8ailors, fine des
Mftpltaux. English Com -
mercial School , Mr. W.
Bsrksbtre. Bo ft' School,
Mr. F. Turrell, and Girls'
School, Mies Wilkin, at
Bfiroabet.
Booksellers : Librairie
PolygloUe, near Moore’s
Pharmacy. Librairie Aba -
joli, Frank Street; Greek
bookshop* near 8. Pbotlni.
Oatts: Ijouca’t, mask In
the gardens on summer
evenings, local newspapers,
and a theatre. Alhambra,
near the garden of the French
Oonanlate ; theatre. Cmde
Commercial, Conti, opposite
Moore's llianuacy, a remles-
von o of tho merchants at
noon. Smyrna Best, Sailors’
Welcome, on the quay.
. Turkish Cafts, coffee, rakl,
andnarghllehs in the native
-Quarter of the town.
. Casinos : European Ca-
' iino, founded 1*3*,' near the
British Consulate. Greek
Catiho, supported by the
Greeks, In Pnotisdee' house
on tire quayt Neat Club,
international much fre-
quented by the English, has
a restaurant, in Parallel
Street. Armenia^ Guinn,
on the quay. Toe Casinos
have reading, card, billiard
slid ball-rooms; visitors are
made honorary members for
S months if introduced by *
member.
Clubs : dub dee Chasseurs,
ontheqbsy. Sporting Club,
with Theatre at Alhambra.
: Chemists : Moore A Co ..
'London Pharmacy/ Local
Ilonlsclier. . I srpignanL
British Pharmacy, English
Pharmacy, tcard • frets * .
All In Frank Street.
Churches : Church q f
England, service, 8un. 11
A.M., at the Dutch Chapel,
Boo, Wilson. At Boja,
service every: Son. Re*.
Lebouvier. At Bftrnabat,
service every Sun. 10 a.m m
Rev BeUot. Scotch Chan d,
at the Scotch Mission Sehool
in Armenian Quarter. Ser-
vice every 8un. 4 r.n., Roe,
Murray. Evangelical
Church, American Mission,
near Besma-kbineh. Service
tn Turkish and English, Rev.
Bartlett.
Dentist: A, Bon, Frank
Street, near 8. Polycarp's
Church
Dervishes : Dancing Der-
vishes, every Friday after
mlddsy prayer, at the
Tekkeh In the upper Turk-
ish town. Free. Boosting
Dervishes, every Friday
at the Tekkeh in the Ar-
menian Quarter. Free. In
each case s few piastres
Should be given to the door-
keeper on leaving.
Physicians: Dr. Caseo ft
(surgeon to British hospital!
Dr. Chaseeaud, Dr. von Rich
storf.
Porters : Hammals can
be hired on the quay, or at
the barAra.
Post Offloes I Imperial
Ottoman, behind tho timed
Hotel. British, at the
British Consulate. Austrian,
On iho quay, Local lion-
ischer. Austrian Levant
Post, Parallel Street, Local
Pboliadee. French, Parallel
Street, Local Honlscher.
Russian, on the quay, Local
Honlscher. Letters are not
delivered at boosts; tra-
vellers mtiKt go or send to
the Post Office* for them, or
show their cards.
Restaurants: Champs
Elite**, parallel Street, near
Local Phutlades. La Grande
Bretagne, near Moore's Phar-
macy. British Restaurant.
Local • 8partall. Prices
moderate. Luncheon boor
13-1 r.M.
Shoemakers : A. Corsini,
Maraspini, Frank Si reel.
Shops: (fomptuirs Pari-
signs , and B. Diogeni*. near
8. Pbotlni, Xenopoulo , Pal-
lamary frlres. Bon Mdrchd,
W. Griffith , A. Solari, Au
louvre, ColdCnberg, and
Maisvn Stein, In Frank
Street.
Libraries : The Beam
r ical School Library , near
Pbotlni. Open daily,
except Sundays and holy
days, from 9 to 13 a.k. and
3 to 3 p.m.? ftoal 15th July
to 16th 8ept. In morning
only. Free.
money Changers: The
rates of exchange are con-
stantly fluctuating. 1 he
following are the values of
coins used In common trans-
actions at 8myrna in 1894.
At the Banks: Eng. 8ov: v .
P. 1394; 30-franc piece, P.
110; Turk. Lira, P. 135;
MeJId, P. 335. Jn the Terns :
Eng. 80 v., P. iff; 39-frune
piece, P. 16*; Turk. Lira,
P.1Y8; Mqjtd, P. S3.
MS Of
School.
1h* Evangelical
. Free. For hours, see 14
brariee. Armenian SchooL
Free. Lyced Imperial,
sculptures In the garden.
Free. Konak, sculptures in
garden. . Free.
Hewkpapers : Turkish i
Bismet, Aidin. Prtnoh 1
l Impartial, la Reforms, Is
Oourrier de Smyrnejournaf
de Smyme, twice a week;
1st Affiches Smy md e nn es,
•very 8sturdAy. Greek t
Amalthea, Harmonia , Eta
Smymi, five times a week.
Armenian: JfamdJ,rounthly>
Jewish : ksneransa (In
Spanish) ami fistad (In
Turkish! kurojiean news-
paper* at the Uotela. Casinos,
. and tho Librairie poly T
glotte.
Oriental Carpets : W,
Griffitt, Frank Street. Par-
tridge ; BAndria.
Photographers : Rubdim
Phv et jits. Tea re Khkn,
Frank Street. Crabo w, Frank
Street, corner of ltuee Street.
Tailors 1 C. Warning.
Local * Ten Ik Wes, Frank
Street. Food, R. des Vcr-
reries.
Theatres : Theatre of the
Spotting Club, the Alham-
bra^ French and Italian
plays and oiwras, and . T.
des Quais, Greek comedies
at Leuca's. Prices very
moderate.
Tobaeeo Is a. Government
monopoly. Tbt* bureaus*
qf the Regie are on the quay
In PhotWes’ house; tin
Manufacture de tabac at
tbe. Point.
Telegraph Offloes : Im-
perial Ottoman, Eastern
Telegraph Company, both
on the north Jetty of the
port, near the landing-place;
The clerks speak English
and French. Messages tre
Digitized by L^ooQle
412
INDEX AND DIRECTORY^
• delirered. Th# taihoayi
. have their own lines.
Watchmakers s F. Robert,
t Frank Street: P. M . Blum •
berg, Frank Street.
wins. Spirits : O . Homey ;
L. Nalpae ; Oaf 4 Ooeti.
Anyrno, Qulf of, 60, 00 , 100,
8ofiax, 80S.
Bbganli Dagk Ml., |U6.
Sow, 040.
Bogkanli Dtrt, 166, 160.
PogtUli Su R., 071.
Sqfular Ovaei, Plain, 14. :
Bogkla Oeul Lake, 166.
fOEIA f (¥.), 110, 100, 116.
Railway : Terminus, So-
. kla Brandi Ottoman Rly.
One train dally to and from
Smyrna.
Sokhta Kalem, 176.
Rok Su R., 176.
Solat Dbbyisb, 044.
SOMA f (e.), 66, 61, 70, 107,
106.
Railway : Terminus, Ma-
niea-Soma line; one train
dally each way.
BONDUBLU, 106.
Station t A kiln - Dinelr
Rly.
SOBADKB. 006*
Borkunji Dagk Ml., 161, 168.
Somoni, 870.
Somsaua, 160.
SOWUK-CHUKMUE, 010.
floyui Chai R., 066.
Bpalmatori, Island qf, 170.
Spindabi, 040.
BrAVBI-EHlN, 007.
SraoeiiNO Okon, 001.
Soaoex, 070, 070.
Subatax, 810.
SttoUTf (k. p;), 16, 181.
Population : T. 7000.
SSgUt Geul Lake, 181, 100.
Suoutlu, 070.
Suuaya Foxtaxka, 800.
Suj Bulae, 004, 001, 800,
006.
Suk xau-SniUKH f (e.), 014.
Suldux Plain, 000.
Bulk imam bam, 814.
Bulxuianisu f (a.), 000, 804,
806,880,804.
Scut imam Kumbet, 080.
8ulpb<ax, 868.
6ULTANABAD, 880,
Sultan Chai R., 871.
Sultan Dagk ML, , 180, 106,
Bolt an Emin, 007.
SULTAN -HI88AR (x.), 08,
108.
Station ; Atdln - Dinelr
Rly.
Sultanibh, 816.
Sultan KhIh. 160, 60.
Sultan Oghlu, 076.
Sultan Sft R., 176, 077.
Sulu Qva Plain , 80.
Sr'LUrSBKAI, 86, 44.
8UMBKCHB, 806.
SUXELA, 006, 000.
Sumda Su R., 006, 807.
Sumsob, 048.
SUNOUBLOt (e.), 00, 10, 07,
80, 80.
Sumisa (x.), 88, 80.
SOpOblO, 16. '
Sub, 000.
So^atTasb, 61..
SO BET, 106.'
8ubohi (N.X 077.
Subian, 888.
Sunk, 178.
Suumke, 888.
SUBMBNKU (X.), 000, 144, 4.
Surmenek Su R., 000.
Sc bp, 086.
Subp Oababbo Monabteby,
68,60.
Subp Oababed Monabteby
(Muwi), 840.
Subp Uaoob, 087.
Subp Hobhankes Monabteby,
888, 816.
Subp KuIn, 006.
Subp Kbieob, 084.
Subtme, 64.
Susa, 806, 881.
Sutackam Su R., 10.
Susan, 080.
Susuklu, 61, 68.
SOsOe, 168.
SUTLEJ, 106, 106.
Station : Aldin - Dinelr
Rly. Branch line to Chlvrll.
SUYEBEE t (N. P.), 801, 060.
SUYEUUKX, 180.
Suvta Cape, 116.
SOyOn Basiu, 107.
SOyOn Qeuzu, 166.
SULSZMANLL 180, 66.
Station ; Manila - Soma
lln*.
BTMB (E.% 067, 171.
Population: G. 8060.
800.
T.
Steamers t PamUkm Co.
It Rate of Syrian line 6sll
once a Trask, going from
and returning to Smyrna $
boats of Islands' line forth.
SFbiah Oates, Toe, IpS, 800.
T.
Ta’alik Kay a Rock, 01.
Tgbak Chai R., 01.
Tabaklab, 04.
Tabanu. 04.
Tabanli Dert Valley, 88.
Taban Tepe, 080.
JObin Chai R„ 806. i
TUbiskkuri Lake, 001.
Population i 166,000.
“ : Consu l Q e m
ral, C. O. Wood, Bm.
Hotels : None, but no
difficulty In obtaining shel-
ter and food.
Tadvak, 086,086,068.
Taiyiaeh, 00t,
Takamu, 80,
Taeht. 016.
Taehta Kxupex, 100, 106,
074. ^
TakkLdi Chai R., 00.
Taehta LimIn, 177.
lOkhtoli Mtt., 00,104,171.
Taeut-i-Kush-Kuh, 041.
Taeut-i^Jamshu), 000,
TAEUT-f-RUNTAN, 000,
Takkt-i-SuUiman, 006.
Takkt-Jamukid, 007.
Tae-i-Bostan Book, Soulp-
TUEKO AT, 007,
Tae-i-Kesba, 818.
Tax-i-Smibix, 800.
Takik, 010,
Taeib Keui, 004.
Taemae t (E.> ISf.
Taxmans, 007.
Tax-Tax, 004.
Digitized by LaOOQLe
iNDfii A mb t)i rector ¥.
41 k
Ta eta ran, M7.
Talab, 68, 909, 878.
Tamal, 818.
Tamila, 804.
Tanka, 949.
Tanqjur 8u J?., 861.
Taro-i-Kalajch, 804.
Tcmg-i-Skeikk JtmaU Gorge,
Tang-i-Tura DeJU*, 888.
Tahir. 178.
Tanox (*.), 178.
Tanzara (n.), 48.
T AMORT, 814.
Taojil, 848.
Tafajc, 91.
Tapan Dere, 888.
Tapurrlo, 179.
Tarakli, 14.
Taer-Chai, 819.
171. 197.
OOBROUte : TicS-ConSul,
A. Dilkm,l*q.
RrUwrj : Station on M«r-
•ina- Adana line.
Taman, 874.
Tama-Srrhr, 174.
Tarkbunar, 44.
Tarh-burun, 887.
rath Kajm Gorge, 08.
TARR-KRumif (x.% 7, li,
Tarh-Krurbrh, 881.
Tarrux, 144.
Tarhlu, 8.
Tarh 6om.tr, 847.
Tarr-Oohld, 817.
Tarh Olux, 111, 878.
«u* Ota Plain, U, M, M,
Tarh Scala, 177.
TatUar Rouge, M. . , ..
Tatil Pau, 844.
Tasluji Tint, 888.
Tabcj, 888. 880, 888.
Tata mu, 146.
Tat Krui, 188.
Tatlax, 169. .
l*UB8u Spring, l*,
TaOk. 889.
TaBk 18 A, 809.
n*ru» Mi 171, 1M. Ik,
896, 997,907,870,878,878,
Taubxax, 819.
Tattlu, 9. ,
Tatlardn, m, art, am. .
Tavrhan Ad alar, 98.
Taoshon Degk ML, 9, 18, 18,
Tatoxax Kalxk, 8.
Tatrxanli (n.), 98.
TasKui, 198.
Timn (x.), 180 , iH.
Tbonxbh, 888.
Trout, 881.
rmi* *(t.\ ii7. au,
au.aaa.aaa.Mi.au.
Lafatia*: Minister, 81 r
M. Durand. K.CJ& Vice-
Consul, F. k itow, Isq.
Hotala : IT. Preset i H.
Caucate.
Trhrut, 841.
Trimrum, 898.
TbearaXhba, 878.
Trk-oeos Krdtri, 99, 69.
Trxirhamrar, 118, 119.
Tbkix-oya, 184.
Teeir-Yabi, 878.
Tbkrr, 108, 89, 88, 888, 809.
Tekke Dere, 847, 808, 170, 878
Trkkb Krui, 119, 198b 899.
TrkrIt, 801, 808.
Teklab Dagh ML, 881.
Tbll Afar (x.X 888.
Tell Ajax, 800.
Tell Arm in, 881.
Tell Barker, 881.
Trll xl-Hbeamia, 881.
Tell rn-Nama, 888.
Trll Ibraxim, 888. .
Tell Jibin, 888.
Tell Kef, 897. .
Trll Zb it, 848.
7W* ** Jttnmrf, 898.
Telonia. 899.
Telob, 171.
Trlxndor, 888.
Tbmar, 804.
Trxeuux, 878.
1800.
T.
t ' (L) intw
Bung. Llogd. Kortx. (H.)
Muhsise Co. Imfuiar. . ’
Trbefu, 49.
Teng-i-AUah-hshAkbar, 988.
Ikng-LChmkan Gorge, 881
Teng-i-Turkem Gorge, 899.
Troo, 108.
Tbfr Knot, 188, 191, 847.
TRrxms Krui, 998, 888.
Txxxarao, 848.
Tbrjan, 888, 847, 848.
Terja Dagh ML, 884.
TSrmeSu A, 8.
Txxmxrd, 919.
Tersakam 8* JL, 8, 91, 99, 88.
Trrraxx Irxxuuh, 888.
Terxili, 98.
Terziu Hamm am, 87, 88.
TersOt 8u JL, 99.
Tnr, 819.
"syas-syft 1 *
SlRUMI R t JuU’f A. MU
nor Co. OocaRtooally.
l i ft ‘ from OrtrIIo
Tratflux, 878.
Trolor, 979.
Thoren, 981. *
Trobttb, k0.
TioH Mis., 884;
arn.
fbwii B. d» OMmorr / IT.
as l Europe i Omnd B .
i s Good frratofefld
** Somiya
M^yo: Tb Baku, Pbti,
or dr^Haf, Ra. 9 pm dtexk.
Con. 00 par hour.
uSr*"' *•
ItNIX, 811. T"-’
IOANV, 881. *
TH*M
Tn,an,au.
Tuj», Ml.
“wa.*’
TnrOx Aoxa. 887.
OAm
o weak la R1 r 4, ndl» Om.
•tea tlaopte, oaUtag Rt later-
88 , 88 . 11 .
.Kwsarjre
JWW Art., 817.
Tdoan, 819.
ToorxxAN, 881.
Too Ak, 884.
at, at,*
Digitized by
Google
414
INDEX AND DIRECTOR?
Tdp-aqagh, 49.
Topaelu, 69.
Topji, 86,
Toporovan Lake, 891.
Topontvan R ., 881. .
Topmak KALKuf (*.), 888,
.190,817,884,876,
Tom a* Kalksi, 190, 198.
‘Topux-ooftLU, 9.
TOUBALlf (*.), 14.
Tom, 846.
Tot Kkdi, 88.
Tortum (k.), 918, 918.
Tortum Lake. 818.
tortum it, 918, 911, 918, 914.
Tobuxlab, 166.
T08IA f (k. P.), 8, 18.
Population ; T. 4000
860.
Tota Bkl Taila, 164.
.Totw, 989.
Toeanli Su it, 41, 47.
Tkacha, 98, 110,
Tbaqia, 170.
Tkakmuuca/ua, 199, 199.
G.
XRIAHDA, 98, 874.
Railway : Station,
Smyrna- Aidln-Dl neir lUy.
Tbiamda Bat, 879.
BalAm tod Constantinople,
(lx.) Danish. Monthly to
tod from Batdm tnd Oun-
tttntlnbple. N.B. — All
■ steamers call at Sams fin tod
Kerasnnd, and when neces-
sary at Intermediate porta.
Oomreyanoes t Fourgon
(springier), P.- 180 per
diemt Carriage (European
type), to ErterOm. £6 to £1 ;
Bones (tiding), P. la- 34 per
diem; Pack' animals, P.
12-18.
Poet : Imperial Ottoman,
Austrian, French . Hussion .
Bank t Imperial Ottoman.
Doctors : Spathaco ;
PapaJopidos ; Mfremidus.
T»agy*bi, 881.
Tut, 918.
Tukh, 986.
Tdkht (h,), 9.
Tclbashab, 990, 891.
Tumlo Kalbh, 191.
TOw, 169.
Tunokbk, 49.
Tuxgkbz, 914.
Tuklu-buxar, 186.
Tubus (m.), 49, 860, 867.
Tunus Ova Plain, 867.
Tuba, 889.
Tun abdik. Plats au, 999.
TRZBIZOHD % (v. p.), 900,
4, 901, 908, 804, 906
Papulation : T. 30.000 j
O. 10,000; Ar. 6000. Total,
46,000.
Consulate : British Con -
sal, H. Longworth, Esq.,
who is also U. 8. Consular
Agent.
Hotel : H. Bellevue,
fairly good. :
Steamers : (I.) Aust.-
Eung. Lloyd. Every Wed.
to BatAm, and every Sat. to
Constantinople. (11.) Hus-
sion Op. Every Sat. to Rlxs
and Batftm, and every Tues.
to Conatantinople. (IU.)
Messageries Maritimes.
Furtn. Wed. to Batdni, and
fortn. Fri. to Constantinople,
fly.) Court ji et Cie. Every
Thors, to and from Constan-
tinople. (v.) Mahsdse.
Every Bund, to Rlsa, ami
every Wed. to Constanti-
nople. (vi.) Paquet et Vie.
Fortn. Sond. to BatAm, and
fortn. Frl. tu Constantinople.
Cyil.) PanhdUnic. Fortn.
Fr|. to Batfim. and fortn.
Thors, to Constantinople,
(vill.) Westcott and Lau-
rence. Monthly to and froqa
rd&BALI (x.), 96, 98.
Railway: Station. Smyr-
na-Aidin-Dlneir Rly.
Tubkhal (h. p.% 40, 41, 44.
Turkish Islands— Accomoda-
tion In, 844; Books on, 846 ;
outfit for, 844; Population
of, 844.
Turkmax-Chat, 916 ,
Turkmakli. 67 .
Tu MM A XIX or Trkmkxim, 989.
Tu&iu, 998.
Tut, 877 .
Tutak, 880.
Tuwakj, 919 . ■
Tus Gent Lake, 80 , 169 .
Tuz-hisbar, 60.
Tuzja, 947 , ‘
Tux Krui, 66.
Tuz-Khubmati f (*.), 891.
Tuxla, 64, 947.
Testa Chat H., 949.
Tusli Bumu, 99.
: V ,
Uch Atak. 88. *
Uc« KilULAB, 88.
Uch-Kilisss, 888.
Udiik Su R ., 818. .
Ujissa, 169, 169, 168.
UkCzKbui,88.
Ula, 116, 886, 988.
Ulash, 860, 864.
U\fer Chai B. t 60.
Vigos Dagh Ml., 9, 19.
Uljak, 46.
Uuu8H, 809.
Ulubad, 60.
Ulubuxak, 166.
UluChai Valley, 47, 49.; ;
CLUJ AH, 79.
Station : SmyrnA - Ala •
abehr Rly.
Ulukisiila; 190.
Via Su It., 18.
Ummkt-dk1>k, 6J.
Umua, 940.
UHIEH + (x.),8,47.
Population i T., G.,
Ar. 6600.
Steamers: MahsAse.
Weekly to Riza and to Con-
stantinople, calling at inter-
mediate porta.
Vniek St) H., 8.
Uplitsixhk, 918.
Uba, 188.
t rail Plain, 190.
UR7A f (a. p.), 990,999.
Population : 80,000 (T. «
Ar.;8.>
URGAKLI, 92.
Station : Smyrna - Ala -
■helir Rly.
UBOUTt(K.), 170, 188.
Urmia or Urumia. 896, 998,
988. 940. 810. 899, 994.
Urptia Lake, 890, 991, SSI,
894.
Urul, 989, 989.
UwjAkt(K. v.\ 199, 60, 189,
Ushabxh, 999.
Uanxo, SSI.
Uskub, 6.
Utuz-hammam, 18.
Uzkxa, 887.
Digitized by
Google
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
415
UXOB-BUXAB, Ilf,
USUXJABUBJ, 188.
Untttfa Dagk Ml., fl.
Usux Kuru, 177.
Uzun Yaila, 860.
Uiun relish Plateau, 876.
Y.
Yaorakshabad, 887.
VarOr, lit.
Valb, 818.
Population: Ar. 14,000 1
T. and K. 11,000.
Consulate i Vice-Consul,
C. M. nail ward. Esq.
Van Lake, 884, 881, 886. 844.
Varak Dagk Ml., 884, 888.
Yabak Moxastrkt, 884, 887
Yarxox, 814.
Vabzahax, 808, 806, 807.
Vathy. 861.
Vati, 878.
Vrbil-abad, 841.
Vkxr, 866.
Yrkamix, 818.
Vrbkk, 848.
Vbbksrart. 880.
Virix Kbui. 818.
Vazi* KhIk, 16.
Y tx rib Kapusi, 818, 814.
VlLLAXOYA, 874.
1M, Ml, *77,
v ?i*"£* cr " <*•* *> 7 - u >
AS, 88.
Vladi Kars, 816.
VoLtmo, 866 .
Vox a LvmXx, 4.
VosTAxf (x.), 887, 841.
V JtOXTADO, 866.
Wadab-axad, 888.
Wais, 888.
Wank Dagk Ml., 818.
Warba. SIS.
Wasoird, 866.
Wawbb, 808.
WHumk Dagk Mt., 808, 1
Wazoibt, 806.
Wuax, 848.
Jantkut, 187, 186, 188, 171.
Xixoi, 108.
Y.
VTOLA t (x.), 10t, 60, 108.
OoasBlato: Consular
Agent, N. Crendtropolo.
Hotel t B. Menewunli,
Indifferent.
Ste a mer s ; Fran and to
8reyrna, from tbo 8cala,
1 hr. distant.
ITurkfy.— yU. 86.]
Yaqrla, 61.
Yaba Kbui, 106.
Yabu, 116.
YabshI'KrIx, 80, 88, 88.
Yakub- Abdul. 800.
Yalab, 870.
Talinie-ekame Pose , 810.
YALOYAcnf(B.), 148, 188.
Yaluxuz-baoh, 008.
Yamachli, 878.
i'amanlar Dagk Ml ., 60, 70.
Tambotu Su R ., 800.
Yaxab, 104.
Yaxak Tasr, 68.
Yamri, 04. 86, 116.
Yamib Krui. 86.
YArxARU, 8.
Yapuldar, 141.
Yapuxlu, 181.
YARA-masAR, 47.
Yabaybux (r.), 66, 160.
Yabasru, 180.
Yabbasax (x.), 864, 880.
Yabmab, 040.
Yakuts, 871, 868, 878.
Yarsuat, 876.
Yabi Krui, 118.
TastUKaga, 88, 148, 148.
YaSILI-TASH, 86.
Tasir Dertti Rawine, 00, 81.
Yasbiax, 188.
YasaI-ruirx, 147 ,
Tas4n Damn, 4.
TasUi Task Rock, 888 .
Yasu CitBPxr, 87.
Ykdi Kapulu, 87.
Ybpxbmoyba, 881.
Tedi (Huh Pats, 878, 868.
Yskkal, 848.
Ybloa, 814.
Ybxoi Iran, 817.
Ykxi-baxIk KhIk, 40.
Ybxi Four a, 80.
1 T snftWMMt ”•
1188* KA,,TE,, • l#P » 1M »
Ybbwb Kajlbr, 81.
Yexub-kalbh Kbui, 871.
Ybxlh, 874.
Teniji MaUk Dagk ML, 878.
Ybxi Krui, 66, 60. 88. 107
•17. 848, 801. * ’
r, £' Kai *
Thoi JChdn Su It, 86.
YRxr-«irRnK f (kA 18, 16, 60.
188,148. ’ * ’
Ykxi Sukxbxbr, 868.
Yrxi Yapax, 66.
Ybrb-orcbkx, 848, 870.
Tertruf Dagk ML. HI,
Ter Kapunun Kecki, 81.
Yrros Bukux, 4.
Population : 30,000.
Consulate: Vice-Consul,
N. M. Ferguson, Kaq.
Yrsdcbrast. 888.
Yeeid^kkdne Su It. 844, 846.
TOdis Dagk ML, U.
radio Su R., 48.
rOanli Dagk Mt.. 168.
Yilaxu Krui, 166.
Yilax Task. 881.
YooCxss, 86. .
Yomura (x.), 800.
Tomura Su R., 800.
Y «5 0 *», ,7 WK
2 a
Digitized by
Google
416
INDEX AND DIRECTORY'
Yukdaz, 80.
Zaqluja, 816.
Zbnobla, 898.
Yub-gkciii, 878.
Zaqos, 814.
Zerdigek Dagk ML, 804.
Yi;m Bueno, 1,
Zagros, Gate op, 886.
Zbbezbk, 869, 868.
Yunja, 888.
Zagros MU., 886.
Zbbohun, 888.
Yunje, 88.
Zakho (k.), 846.
Zbbmak, 881.
Yunuslas, 149.
Zalbon, 888.
Zbvb. 176.
YOrmk, 17.
Zamanti Su R. 867, 869, 870,
Zbvik, 816.
Yubuk Knot, 180, 181.
878, 878, 874.
Zevin Plateau , 816.
Yusupji, 181.
Zanapa, 168.
Ziabbt, 848, 844.
Yusup Tki-jjla*, 898.
Zanga R. t 888*
Zigag, 886.
Yuvauk, 180.
Zamzakh, 816.
Zioana, 808.
YutOATf (s.), 88,80,88,84,
Zaba f (k.), 47, 4, 48, 49,884.
Zjqana KhIn, 808.
88, 86, 44, 80.
Zabab-KuInbu, 817.
ZlBB-UL-AWAZ, 801.
Yuz KuIn, 188.
Zabau, 888.
Z!l (n.)» 888.
Zaband, 888, 848.
Zilan Dere, 881.
Zard Ab R. t 880.
Zileli Ova Valley , 18.
Ztuir Su R. t 888.
ZU-kamtin Valley , 847.
Zrarst, 846.
ZlLLB, 110.
Zkdaida, 804.
ZiLLBnf(K.), 44, 81, 84, 86,
Zefr* Burun , 4.
41.
Zkidikan, 888, 880, 848.
Zina, 46.
ZbitOm (x.), 868.
ZlNJBBLf, 876.
Zeit&n Su R., 868.
Zimjebu fiuruK, 876, 889.
w
Zkiva, 886.
Zinjib-dxbx, 88, 878.
A
Zkivkjix, 168.
ZlABKLU, 881.
Zab R., 887, 888. 889, 840,
Zkl Fortress, 841.
Zir-i-bar Lake , 888.
894, 896. 801, 808, 807, 881,
Zblbji Kkui, 819.
Zoka, 848.
888, 388, 884, 886.
Zemsevt Dagk Ml., 884, 888.
Zobh (B.), 848, 844.
Zabma, 817.
Zendek Rud R., 839, 840.
Zomio, 880.
ZAPABANBOLlf (K.), 6, 1.
Zengi Ova Plain, 184.
Zobava, 886.
Zaps kb and, 848.
Zengibar Kalesi , 186.
Zor Dagk Ml., 888.
Zagkb, 888.
Zbniya, 180.
Zosta, 167.
Zagirme Bel, Poet, 804.
Zbmjan, 816.
ZuBMAL, 819.
LON DOS ; PRINTED hj WILLIAM 0 LOWES AMD SONS, STAMFORD 8TKKKI AND C1IARINQ CBOSL
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Murray’s Handbook
ADVERTISER,
1895 - 1896 .
CONTAINING
USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS,
RAILWAY
AND
STEAMBOAT COMPANIES,
HOTELS,
AND
MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS.
Digitized by L^OOQle
2
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
G O
DES
MESSAGER1E8 MARITIME^.
FRENCH POSTAL STEAMERS.
FROM MARSEILLES TO:—
AUSTRALIA and N$W CA hEDONIA.
On the 3rd of every mouth for Port-Said, Sues, Aden, Mah£ (Seychelles),
King George's Sound, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Noumea, tran-
shipping at Mah£ for Majunga, Reunion and Mauritius.
EAST C04S'f OF AFRICA.
On the 12th of every month for Port-Said, Suez, Obock, Aden, Zanzibar,
Mayotte, Majunga, Nossi-B£ (branch line for the West Coast of Mada-
gascar), Diego-Suarez, St Marie, Tamatave, Reunion and Mauritius.
CHINA AND JAPAN.
Every alternate Sunday for Alexandria, Port-Said, Suez, Aden, Colombo,
Singapore (branch line for Batavia), Saigon (branch lino for Quin-lion,
Tourano, Thuonun, Hui-phong), llong-Kong, Sbaug-hai, Nagasaki, Kobe
and Yokohama.
i ' CORRESPONDING EVERY FOUR WEEKS— , *
1. At Colombo for Pondicherry, Madras and Culbutta.
2. At HiugujMjro for Samarong.
KURRAC1IEE, BOMBAY.
Branch line from Aden to Kurrachee and Bombay corresponding with the
East Coast of Afrioa apd Australian lines.
MED ITER RA NEA N.
For Constantinople and Odessa \ v
Constantinople and Block Sea ports I
Alexandria, Port-Said, Syrian Ports, Smyrna, Salonica, Piraeus, j
Piraeus, Salonica, Smyrna, Syrian Ports, Port-Said, Alexandria, J Daiuraa y-
• • ! ' LONDON. ! ’ <
Weekly from Marseilles to Havre and London (merchandise only).
FROM BORDEAUX TO
ATLANTIC OCEAN.
1. On the 5th of each month for Lisbon, Dakar, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo,
and Buenos Ayres.
2. On the 20th of every month for Vigo^ Lisbon, Dakar, Pernambuco, Bahia,
Rio Janeiro, Montevideo and Buenos Ayres.
3. On the 28th of each month for Pasages, La Corogne, Vigo, Porto
I^eixpes, Disbonne, Pernambuco, Bahia, p;o Janeiro, Santos, Monte-
video, Buenos Ayjres; Koeario (per transhipment). •
f PARIS: 1, RUE VIGNON.
MARSEILLES : 16, RUE OANNBBIERB.
BORDEAUX: 20, ALLIES d’ ORLEANS.
LONDON: 97, CANNON STREET, E.O.
OFFICES
Digitized by
1895.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVKRT1SKR:
Xfcc>rth & er man ■ Jjloy d,
BREMEN.
IMPERIAL & UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS.
The Comjmnu is its own Insurer .' r
* - » - v - — *. • • • -
BREMEN AND NEW YORK, -
By magnificent Express Steamer*, leaving BREMEN every Tuesday
and Saturday, calling at SOUTHAMPTON every Wednesday ana
Sund ay for Passengers and Mails.
From NEW YORK overy Tuesday and Saturday.
GERMAN MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE
.J* . EXPRESS STEAMERS ^
^ r • ; between
^ NEW YORK, GIBRALTAR, ALGIERS,
° NAPLES AND GENOA. '
MONTHLY 'MAIL & PASSENGER SERVICES
; A «'>° ■
A. TTJS T'RA.X.I A.ST PORTS,
Southampton, Or non, Najdrjt, and Suez Cant if,, ^ p 9
ROUND THE WORLD TOURS AT LOWEST RATfeS,
8 T AltTZIV O CAST OK WEST.
Nfl RIV,ER, PLA^E OIR^CT
Frbm Bremen, falling at Antwerp and Southampton, fey specially
designed new Passenger Steamers; “"Pfalz M and " Mark,” and
- ' - - * “ H. H. Meier 99 (twin screwy , . ;
^ ' . ' . !
Handbooks and fall particulars will be furnished upon application to
the Company in Bremen, or to the undermentioned Agents. T , .
AGENTS IN. LONDON: ’ . . . .. V.* .
KEtEEB, yrJ&tlfr k CO.* 3% tlodkripttf fttreet; Charing Cross, W^st End ';
• r * , r ? ? .66, 68, ft 67. Oraocoh'nroh street, City,. .
PmLLrrrs And Graves. Boiolph Honor, EaaUbaap, E.C.
Agcui» Iri fl®»tbAtnptoW.,..,.j. a.-,....- ~~ v-.‘tUtLSf. Wallis, and: Oo.. .
„ Paris and H<*vr« and CO.
„ Few York aod Co., 3, Bowlins Green.
•• Baltimore Sep p m ac k St and Co.
f.r / ANF e, Pv Alrrrt dm Bart and Co. ,
*C XfOjNtytfc .ii.4J^LWJU^A..:<-t.li;iS. tr *.AiiO««l4r»ER4a«Llft * -o
„ Uf Qeaod4.X ..X4..JL. ::a jumIL.. ../J.X‘a .L scnfltfr VratklM. :/: . •
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MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
limy.
Bristol Channel with Belfast & Glasgow
— — : — — — . #
First-Class Passenger Steamers
ARM INTENDED TO SAID AS UNDER
GLASGOW to BBISTOL, via BELFAST, every Monday end
Thursday at 2 p.m.
GLASGOW to OABDIFF and SWANSEA every * Tuesday and
Priday at 8 p.m. .rruunxo >uo*
BBI8TOL every Monday and Thursday evening 1 , via BELFAST.
OABDIFF every Monday and * Thursday, p.m. tide.
SWANSEA every Wednesday and • Friday, p.m. tide.
m Thit Steamer does not call at Belfast but sails direct between Glasgow, Cardiff and Swansea.
Cabin Fare* to or from Glasgow, 30/-. Belfast, 17/6.
Return Tickets, Fare-and-a-half, available for two months.
Special Summer Return Fare, Bristol with Belfast only, 80/-, available for one month.
EAST & WEST COAST CIRCULAR TOURS RY THIS ROUTE,
Connecting with
London to Leith , Oranton, Grangemouth, Aberdeen and Dundee ;
ALSO SPLENDID SEA TOURS BETWEEN
Bristol, Dublin, Kdlnburgh and Qlasgote, and Bristol, Dublin, and
Isle of Man.
Particulars of all which may be had In the Company's Guide Book, to
be obtained on application to—
WllUAM 3L0AH 4 CO., », CORDON 8TBKT, CIA SCOW.
AMEWftty
W* EXPRESS SERVICE.
The undernoted magnificent Steamers, among the fastest afloat, with unsurpassed Passenger
accommodation, and fitted throughout with the Electric Light, are appointed to sail
regularly between
SOUTHAMPTON AND NEW YORK
ON VBIDAY8.
FUR8T BISMARCK (twin forew) 9,000 tons 19,600 h.p.
NOBMANNIA „ - 9,000 „ 19,600 „
COLUMBIA „ - • 9,000 „ 19,600 „
AUGUSTA VICTORIA „ . - - 9,000 „ 19,600 „
PASSENGERS ARE CONVEYED from London (Wat«rloo Station) BY SPECIAL
TRAIN on day of tailing TO SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS, where arrangement# art made
far their Immediate embarkation with comfort and despatch ; the passenger# mad their
luggage being conveyed from London and transferred fro# of oharge.
THESE STEAMERS, on tkapaitagt from Mow York, LEAVE
TOR HAMBURG.
For Fare# and for detailed In form a tio n, apply to
SMITH, SUNDIU8 4c CO., A8 AQBNT8,
33, OocKsrua Sr., Caaaxvo Oaoaa, 8.WL axis 1M, Lsapsraau 8r., E.O.. LONDON j
4. OiixKTti Ptac», SOUTHAMPTON; 11. lliuw Roax>, PLYMOUTH.
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1895.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER
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MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKBT1SKR.
» '<*i » . 'mABERDEBN. 'IV jiii. )'>»'«)
- -■ . i
I M PE RIAL H OTEL
PERSONALLY PATRONISED BY THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES
The Duke of Edinburgh, ft Priucoas Beatrice,
The Duke of Connaught, • Prince A Princess Christian,
The late Duke of Albany, The King of the Belgian 4.
Prince Froderick William of Prussia,
Anil other distinguished Ylsilors— ynorlean, Europium, and Colonial.
THIS HOTEL , close to the Railway Station, which is failed
s fox its CAjmfor\ y cuisine pud wines, hay been neiq\y pdqrgcd^ t ,
redecorated , refurnished , and a Safety Passenger
,Ifift of the latest fype has been ifitr;oduced. , j
SEPARATE TABLES FOR TABLE D’HOTE. PRIVATE SUITES OF ROOMS
LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM.
READING, SMOKING, A BILLIARD ROOMS. BATHS ON ALL FLObtlS.
AMIENS.
HOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANCLETERRE, AND DE L ’EUROPE.
. • ' - • • mtULt, ProprteWr. ’ ♦ S ' IMIl |
1 711RST-CL A 88 HOTEL, doss to the Cathedral, the Moseum, aihl pfher Publip Buildings.
; Having been recently newly furnished, it offers great comfort. Fa nail lee and Single
Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and 8ingle Rooms.
Omnibus at the Station. Sngllah spoken.
Dngllah spoken.
AMIENS. . ' i 1
(ill AND HOTEL DE L’UNIVEllS . :
F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, recently enlarged. Udng ST. DENIS SQUARE, near the ,
Railway Station. Three Minutes* valk to the Cathedral. Drawing 'and J Bath t
Rooms. English interpreter. TELEPHONE WITH P^RIS. .
OMNIBUS OF THE HOTEL AT EVERY TRAIN..' !
• • ' AMSTERDAM. i
AMS TED ,:HOTf^ !
■ ■ ELECTRIC LIGHT.' t "'* • * :
LIFT. 1
Railway, Telegraph,' Post Offices and!
Stables attached to the House.
TERNS NODERATB.
R. SEqUEIRA, Jr., Manager.
Digitized by Tooele
1895. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVKRTJ8CB.
, .ANTWERP.
. • hotel t St a^toine.
PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL.
rPHJS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well-
merited farour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished
and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate
Charges. Elegant Sitting, Beading and Smoking Rooms; fine SalU h
Manger, excellent Table crHAte and ehoioe Wines.
English, Amerioan, and French Papers.
| li 3 | *3
HOTEL.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
. ANTWERP.
GRAND -HOTEL DU. COURRIER.
Near the IMAoe Verte, Gktbedral, Poet Office, and Mueeum Plantln.
Particularly recommended for.lt* comfort and moderate chargee. • Rooms from 3*60 panes.
Pension from 7 francs a day, everything included. Restaurant "A la cane. 1 '
Dinners at any hour. Reading Room. Bnths< Omnibus to {Ration and Boats!
» E. CARP AT,. Proprietor. .
AVRANCHE9. '
GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE.
The most frequented and the moat Comfortable. Good booking. Renowned Cellar.
Omnibus at Station. Comfortable apartments for families. English Papers. Splendid ;
Sculptures, Louis XVI. L Carringes for Mont 8L Michel. Cook's Tourists' Hotei.
EMILE PINEAU, Proprietor. 1
AVRANCHE8.
AVRAN0HE8.
GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. ’
* . Morkl, new ' Proprietor. . First Class
House. Near Post and Telegraph. Apart-
ments and Rooms for Families. Smoking
Rriom. Large Garden. Moderate Ihlces.
Omnibus to all the trains.
GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE
Recently neonSraeUd and newly famished •
throufhout with Urge additions, and every poeelble .
Comfort. Celebrated Cellar. Knglieb rapere. ;
Moderate Prioee. Omnibus at Station. Carriages I
for Mount St. Michel and Kieundona.
A. UOVUJOAITI, JVsfrfoier. 1
KS
^i|ljmgHnTTjar
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MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
BADEN-BADEN.
TOj
i i C I ^
IilCHTENTHAIiBH AIaIaBK
A/oj/ charmingly situated In Its own extensive and well-kept grounds.
THK BEST POSITION IN BADEN-BADEN.
RECOGNISED AS ONE OF THE HANDSOMEST AND BEST FIRST-CLASS
HOTELS ON THE CONTINENT.
Recently erected with every possible Improvement and Require-
ment, AND ALL THE LATEST SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS,
i pretty BALCONY to every room. LIFT and BATHS in the houee.
rssNOH RESTAURANT.
FAVOURITE RESORT OF ENCLI8H AND AMERICAN FAMIUE8. PENSION.
CARL H. FOELL, Proprietor.
BADEN-BADEN
(Mil ZM
r (§ii gi □ h
Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GR08H0LZ.
T'HIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-Class
A Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade
oppoeite the new General Post Office, nearest the Eursaal and the famous
Frederic Baths and Augusta Baths; it commands the most charming views,
and is reputed to he one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally fre-
quented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in every
respect, very moderate charges. Table d’H6to at 1 and G o’clock. English
ami other Journals. Beautiful airy Diniug-Hooins, Ladies’ Drawing-Room,
Reading A Smoking-Rooms. Pension in the early & latter part of the season.
Hydraulic Lift. Bath Booms. Sanitary Arrangements perfect.
BADEN-BADEN.
First-class Establishment, close to the CON- ^
VERSATION HOUSE and NEW VAPOUR ^ rtfj
BATHS. Now surround* <1 by ITS ^ ,t
OWH BEAUTIFUL
_ ALL TH^YflAR.
Charges strictly moderate.
Special arrangemeuts for a prolonged stay. Pension
— HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BOTH HOUSES.
— " Kbhuilt nt 1891. A. ROSSLER, Proprietor •
BASLE.
THREE KINGS HOTEL.
I ABGEST First- class Family Hotel in Boole, in a quiet, healthy, and
j magnificent situation on the Biver Rhine, and in the centre of the
town. Hydraulio Lifts. Omnibus in attendance at the German and
h wist Railway Station. Proprietor, 0. FLU OK.
BASLE.
HOTEL SCHRIEDER ZUM
DEUTSCHER HOF.
O PPOSITE the Baden Railway Station.
Comfortabl e ac commodation. Moderate
Ouigm. m. BBNB, Proprietor.
BASLE.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK
FOR THE RHIRE & RORTH
GERMARY.
wrrn maps and plans. »».
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1895
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
lerlin Hotel Gompany.
Hotel Kaiserbof,
WILHELMSPLATZ.
Hotel Continental,
(RAILWAY STATION)
FRIEORICHSTRASSE.
HoM Kui haus I AT HERINGSOORF,
IJndemarm ’8 Hotel j Baltic Sea.
Season from 1st Jane to 80th September.
VIRES ft HAVANA CIGARS WHOLESALE at HOTEL KA1SERH0F.
Fiptt-Glass Hotels, and well known for
their Modern Comforts.
PROSPECTUS AND PRICE LIST FREE ON APPLICATION.
GUSTAV AURAS, General Manager,
■■ ■■ ■ Berlin Hotel Company . 11 ■ ■
BERLIN.
GRAND HOTEL DE ROME,
UNTEB DEN LINDEN, 89 (opposite the Royal Palace).
This reputed, first-class Hotel has the best situation in
the Town, close to all the principal sights and
Royal Theatres.
Splendid RB8TAURA2YT, looking out over the “Idnden.”
" caf6.” drawing-room for ladies, baths, lift.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. f
Kewspapert in all Languages . Omnibus at Stations . Moderate Charges.
Proprietor: ADOLF MUHLING,
Purveyor to tti Imperial Court.
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10
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
(Lac Majeur) BAVENO (Italic).
GRAND HOTEL BELLE VUE. i
T ABGK FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, on the finest and healthiest position of the Lake, surrounded
J J by an extensive Park. Pacing the Uorromean Isles. Lauding Place at the entranoe of thf
Garden. Omiiibus and Carriages for tbs 8iniplon Pass. Moderate and fixed charges.
HYDRAULIC LIFT, Railway Ticket* and Rooking Office for Luggage in tho Hotel , * I
? NO OMNIBUS WANTM). Oh. PEPHgTTI, Proprlstoi j
' • BAYEUX. |
HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG,'
Reputed the best. Situated in the centre of the town, close to the Cathedral and
public buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr. 60 c. ; Dinner, 3 tr. Rooms from 2 fr. Table d'HAteJ
Restaurant 4 la Carte. Garden. Billiard-room. Recreation Q round. Carriages for
Excursions. ENGLISH BPOKBN. |
BERNE. . »
BERNERHOF HOTEL. j
Ibis Iwautifal KirM-clssi KataULOinent is th* incut important and tlia bMtslliMtd in tli« Town, at two
telnatc*’ walk from lltM Station, and doto to Itie House of ParlUnuriit. It U auiroundoil by a Laulifol
|«nlm with a largo terrace, ami commaiwU s fall view of tlm Alp*. It. inp-rior interior wiuif«nwiit*
tbs comfort of Its Private Apartment*, Public Parlours, Heading Ha loon, sic., make it the mo*l.dmlr*Ul*
realdanee for English familial and Hugh. Travellers. lUdaced Prices for protracted sla>s and in Winn*
season. Lift. Eieotrio Light.
Pontral for tbs whole of North 2^ Westward Ho, Clovelly, Hortland, Buds.
, Ilfracombe, and Lynton.
8^" ng w^ ,U &|ROYAL HOTEL. I Over, uo^iU.Kj.J
^ tnCoe. I HIGH CLASS. I TurriJ «« »M Bchlgg
Superbly famished and lofty rooms. Ventilation sad Sanitary arrangement* perfect. OoutlneutA
Courtyard. Finest Staining and Ooacb-bonss in Devonshire. Dulightfal winter Beaort. t
A portion of the boaw hailt in 1688 hr an old merchant prince retains iu niaguiA.wiit *mk staircaes and
suite of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of Westward llo.". - »
BIDEFORD.
NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL.
THK 0U>KST, LaUUKST, AND PltlKCtl'Af. IIOTKL IK THS ToWM.
Private Sitting Rooms, with excellent views. The House Is pleasantly situated
in tho centre of Ibo Town, overlooking lb* river Torridgo, and other Hotels, liar recently nnderfone
txtenair* additions and improvements. It is well-known for Its saperiur avommodatiou oombined with
moderate chargsa Proprietor of and Hooking Office for the CJorelly *pd Hude < Vend ie* In eonusetlon with
the LS& W. Hallway. Hut and Cokl Bathe hlHbuds. two Uhlea H. A8COTT, Proprietor*
' - BIARRITZ. *' -** iu *“'
aiLdfiLUm BCOTEls VXOTOKXA,
GRANDE PLAGE.
This new Hotel Is built with all the latent Improvements of comfort Near llic British
Club and Golf Grounds. In the centre of Ibe bo-t Promenades. Lift. 160 Rooms and
Saloons. Facing Sea and full South. Uciowued Cuisine. Pension Moderate.
J. FOURNEAU.
BILIN, BOHEMIA.
THB
BILINER SAUERBRUNN
IlGXOpLOVS WATER)
IS DOUBTLESS TUB MOST EMINENT REPRESENTATIVE OF A*J.L
ALKALINE ACIDULOUS WATL'HS.
The Cure-Eatablishment at Sauerbrunn in Bilin is opened
from 16th May till 80th September.
This watering-place, a few steps from the mineral springs, Is perfectly
protected against tho north winds and west winds, and surrounded with
beautiful gardens. Comfortably furnished rooms from 3i to 20 florins a week.
Digitized by
1896.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
11
12
Murray's Handbook advertiser.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
BRIGHTON AND MARINE HOTEL
JACQUES LECERF, Proprietor.
A Urge first-class Hotel, beet eltiution in the Town, facing the See end the ** Ktabllsse-
ment dee Belas." the Garden of which Is separated from the Hotel by the road only.
Visitors to this Hotel have the advantage of hearing, from their own rooms, the Military
Bend which pUya In the Garden. The Hotel has been newly furnished.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
HOTEL DES BAINS.
Mr. la. WAULlET, Proprietor.
1 MUST-CLASS HOTEL situated on the Port, facing the Railway Station and Steamers.
; Near the Post Office and Casino. Hot and Gold Sea Baths in the House. Ad-
vantageous arrangements made for a stay.
LA BOURBOULE-LE8-BAIN8 (France).
HOTEL DES ILES BRITANNIQUES.
J. DONNKAUD, Proprietor.
First- Class Establishment. Fear the Baths. Best Sanitary Arrangements.
The only Hotel wfttli a lift
ACH. ISNARD, OF MENTONE, Manager.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN, N.B.
PHILP'S ROYAL HOTEL
The Finest Hotel in tho District
Most convenient to break the Journey to
the Highlands.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR
SCOTLAND.'
NEW EDITION, on 8poclal Light
Thin Paper
MAI’S AND PLANS. 0s.
SAVOIE] BRIDES-LES-BAINS. [FRANCE.
GRAND HOTEL DES BAIGNEURS.
J. AMPIN, Proprietor. \
Near tbs Bath Establishment 8 and the New Casino. Comfortable Apartments. Excellent
Caleb)*. Electric Light Omnibus meets every train. Montlns-Salins Station, and for
l ho Baths of Salliut. English spoken.
BRUNNEN (Lake of Lucerne). ..
HOTEL AND PENSION WALDSTATTERHOF
(HOTEL JOES QUA THE CANTONS).
Finest Position on the Lake. First-Class Hotel. 250 Beds. Large Gardens.
Lawn Tennis and Croquet Grounds.
HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL ROOMS.
LIFT. BRUSSELS. LIFT.
SOTBXi MBBrCIBXiI.ZI,i
RUE ROYALE.
First-Class. Best Situation. Every Comfort. Rooms from S free. Pension.
Restaurant. Table d’Hote. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Reeding, Smoking, Billiard,
and Bath Rooms. Tariff in every Room.
B. MENGBLLS, Proprietor.
BRU 88 EL 8 . BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L’UNIVERS. GRAND HOTEL, CERNAY.
A „ (cxhtsal.) Close to the Railway Station for Oetend, ,
First Cl AM. Moderate Prices. Germany, Holland, Antwerp and tea, form-
t»u* d'BAts. Bectanrent, Brian. S hio kta g Boon. Ing the Corner of the Boulevards Botanlqoe
Oardan. OmnlLtu at Station. It 8hafflar>Wlarts e . a q Word. Moderate chanraa. in
taksn also tbawaaafamsaiof tbsQrand Dotal, ^ Uotel Telephone. ^
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1895.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
IS
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
BUXTON HYDR OPATHIC.
APPLY, MB. S. LOMAS.
LARGEST AND M08T COMPLETE HYDROPATHIC IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.
BEST SITUATION.
Close to celebrated Mineral Welle and Bathe.
American Elevator. Every description of Hydropathic Hatha, Electric
Baths, Massage and Elootro-Massagc.
National Telephone — No. A, It UX TON.
HOTEL D'MIGHETERRE,
Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81.
Situated In (he Centre of the Town. Rendenous of the best Society.
100 EIECANTIY FURNISHED A COMFORTABLE BED ROOMS A SITTINC ROOMS.
BREAKFASTS X LA OARTE.
TABLE D'HOTE BBEAKFA8T8 AT 3 FBAHOB.
Dinner at Table d’Hote, 4 fros.
SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES.
English and Spanish Spoken .
L. MANGEL, Proprietor.
CAIRO.
HOTEL. DU NIL.
rnrns Historical First-Class Hotel, newly rebuilt, handsomely famished
JL and enlarged with aeveral new apartment*, where quietness and health can be
obtained, to strongly recommended. It to the only Hotel in Cairo where the Sanitary
Arrangements on the English modern syatem ere carried oat to perfection. No c eee p ooi
oo the premtoee, bat complete system of Sewer Drains. Verandah 400 square metres.
Beeotifu Garden, Pehn, Orange, and Banana Tree* bearing fenlt during the winter
eaaeoo. Drawing and Ladies* Saloons, Conversation, Reeding, and Smoking Rooms,
Library and Billiard Rooms, Bar, Dark Room for Photographers, Shooting Articles.
Beet French Cooking In Cairo. Reoowned Cellar. Vary old winee always in stock.
Terms moderate. Tie proprietors live in the Hotel and personally attend to the good
order of the Establishment.
R. FLEISCHMANN, Proprietor.
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MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADYKRTlSKRt
M»y,r
SHEPHEARDS HOTEL,!
I'atronizqU by Imperial (iikI Jtoyul Families. t . ,
This world-famed Establishment, situated id the most healthy and
interesting part of the city, combines tho comforts of home with tho
luxury of the finest hotels in Europe. ' J
Rooms and 8uites of Apartments facing full south. Private Street
Entrances. Fire-places. Hair Dressing Saloon. Tennis Courts. Br&uch
Offices of the Kgyptiun Tost ami Telegraph, and the Eastern Tclograph
Company, Limited.
FIREPROOF STAIRCASES. ELECTRIC UCHT THROUGHOUT THE BUILDIHC.
HYDRAULIC LIFTS.
Disinpkutino Aitauatus o.v tub Latest and most Arruovsn
Prinoiflbs.
Drainage A Sanitary Arrangements on the most Vodern Principles
fitted up by Eminent English Engineers, and - approved; by the/Sanitarf
Engineer to the Egyptian Government. A thick lkyer of Bjtnuum
Concrete preventing humidity and noxious emanations.
'Ihe surrounding Gardens and Palm Groves are the 9 Property
of the Hotel. . ,
Pli. ZECH, Proprietor.'
CAIRO.
HOTEL BRISTOL.
Fflret-claNb Family Hotel.
SITUATED FULL SOUTH. ^ FACING TUB ESBEKIEII TiAIiDEfc*¥
MOST CENTRAL PART OF THE TOWN.
Drawing and Ladies’ Saloons. Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms.
Excellent French Cuisine. Moderate Charges. All Comfort desirable.
Perfect Sanitary ‘Arrangements. ,
Terms, including Room, Light, Attendance, A tho usual 3 Meals, from 10*. to 10*.
Batii Rooms. N. PAPPADOPOULOS, Proprietor.
QAMPFER (8T. MORITZ).
HOTEL JULI^RHOF.
First-class English Family tfotil. i
Sunny and Quiet Position* 8sniury Arrangements. . Private Qnuiibue.SeryittltQ the
* .Irun Bstbt of St. Mortis. English Church Service* Lawn Tennis '
• . . • '■ . Be* Reference,. . J. MULLER, PropH.toft
• ' CANNE8, - . . v. -i.
HOTEL Dir PARADIS, r ;
BEA CTtyULL T- SITUA TED OH UlOB GROUNDS, VEIT ST. -PAWS'- CUTTBVH,
/Magnificent Gardens. . Lift. Tennis. 'TramiOmnlMiS'.ij&r
longing: to tfie Hotel to and from Town even?- halt-hcfUB..-. .
• - ‘ . C1U STAEHI.K, »]«a Rl^ult-lor of t.e Thuncrbof, Thun.
Digitized by
1893:
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
15
CANNES.
HOTEL BEAU SITE
r , *:?n*v' : * ^ » •* '* Atm 1 ' r« r
HOTEL DE L’ESTEREL.
(THE NEAREST HOTELS TO THE GOLF-LINKS.)
B OTH situated at the West End of Cannes, in the midst
of a most splendid Garden, and ( adjoining Lord Brougham's
property ; I tho healthiest part pf tho; Town. \
300 Booms and Private Sitting Rooms.
Enlarged Drawing Boom, separate Reading Room , Smoking
and Billiard Boom, with Thunton'e Tablet .
BATH ROOtt. , LIFT WITH SAFEST APPARATUS.
THREE LAWN TENNIS COURT8,
CONSIDERED THE FINEST AND LARGEST IN EUROPE.
OKokQAS GOTTOOIiTZ, Proprietor.
CANNES. . WESTrEND
'HOTEL DU PAYILLOH
. ;■ Entirely .Renewed and Refurnished In 1898. ■ >■ i
FIRST CLASS H01I8E. ’• VERY, SHELTERED POSITION.
>_• '&xrv. •
This- First Class kstablishment is now kept and direotod by Slg.’ P.
BORGO, lately and for many years Proprietor of the renowned Grand
Hotel d’Enrope, at Turin. . . • i
CARLSBAD.
ANGER’S HOTEL
(Branqh, RHEIN HOTEL).
T-bese-twe first-class Hotels offer -special comfort to English and
Araejjcsq ^Travellers, who will find thorn most desirable residences. ,
. 1 : .Charge moderate. .Deservedly recommended. -
‘‘English and American NcwspaperS. . Baths, Carriages, ; Omnibus.*
~ : fiydfaulic Lift, Electric Light. . •: . .*.*•*.
! ; 7 J r '.\;V iytfV { arlcf f7frs: AKger speak .English* : . V *.
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16
MUBRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
M»jr,
CARLSBAD.
SITUATED at the COBNEB of PABKSTBASSE,
In the finest part of the Cure-Establishment.
Suitably Furnished with Elegance and every Modern Comfort.
ELECANT DINING, READING, AND CAFE 8AL00N8.
Large Garden, Verandah. Electric Lighting. Lift
Berths and Carriages in llte House,
Undtr the Personal Muaitatnt of TKS PHOPEXSTOHB.
Telegraphic Address: — “KrOH, CARL8BAD.”
CARLSBAD.
GRAND HOTEL PUPP.
THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, recently built and splendidly
I furnished, situated in (ho best part of Carlsbad, opposite the new
baths and close to ilio Springs. Much frequented by English and
American visitors. Unrivalled Dining, Reading, Smoking, Music, and
Ladies* Rooms. Electrio Lighting, Ruths, Otis Lift
Oonoerts daily in the beautiful Park belonging to the Hotel.
Telegraphic Address : PUPP, CARLSBAD .
CARLSBAD.
ROSCHER’S HOTEL.
“ G old ener S child & Zwel deutsche Monarohen/ >
THIRST-CLASS HOTEL in the most beautiful location of
A- the town. 200 rooms and saloons, (kmoert-Garden, 1 jorge Prome-
nade Garden. Remarkable Dining Saloon with large Glass Verandah.
Coffee Saloon with Newspapers in all languages. Concert of the Concert-
Band twice a week. Baths, Carriages, Omnibus, Electrio Light, Lift,
Telephone.
Railway Ticket Ojfioe and Royal Bavarian Otutom Revision in the House,
F, ROBOHER, Hotelier.
CARLSBAD.
HOTEL HANOVER.
first- Class Hotel.
Situated oo the Market Place, opposite the Poet and Telegraph Offices, In the Immediate
vicinity of the Sprngs and Baths. Verandah. English ana trench spoken. Open all the
year. Omnibus at the Station. PETBR & KRIELGSTEIN, Managers.
CHAMONIX.
HOTEL OE FRANCE AND NNION RENNIE.
First and Second-class Hotels. Newly Furnished and Renovated. Central Position. Near
the Post and Telegraph Offices. Magnificent View of Mont Bltnc and the Panorama of
the Valley. Dejeuner Table d'Hote, 7f. 50c. Dinner, St pension from Of. Very Com-
fortable Rooms from 2f. GO Bedrooms. Smoking Booms. Baths. Cafe -Restaurant.
American Bar. English and Gorman Spoken. p. FELISAZ, Proprietor.
Digitized by i^ooole
1895.
MUBRArs HANDBOOK ADVfcRTlSKR.
17
CHAMONIX.
GRAND HOTEL COUTTET.
rint-Olau ttotcl*
log and Tol'og gening . Splendid view of llonl Blanc. Urge Garden.
D.th.. Moderate Term.. Uood Accommodation to F.inlll^. F COUTTET, Proprietor.
CHAMONIX.
HOTEL PENSION BEAU SITE.
Pacing Mont Blanc,
8YLVAIH OOUTTBT, Proprietor.
HreekfaH, If. 60c. Lrnich, 2f. 60c. Dinner,
3f. 60c. Room, from if. 60c.
Pension, from 6 francs.
CHAMONIX.
GRAND HOTEL D’AHGLETERRE
Fir it- Clou Hotel.
PitronlMd by Sogllah and Aourlcan
Traveller*. T OMPBAUX, Proprietor.
CHAMONIX.
IIOTfili PBNSIOK
CHOIX BLANCHE
_ . .. (FW»| Mount Blanc.)
Specially recommended for Its Good
Management and Cleanliness. Excellent
booking arrangements for a long stay.
Kp. SIMON D. Proprietor.
CHAMONIX (Les Praz).
HOTEL NATIONAL, PENSION
(FBcing Meant Blanc).
( lOM FORT ABLE Pension at f4*60 a day.
V W Ine, light, and attendance Included.
YEUVK COUTTET, Proprietor.
CHE8TER.
THE GROSYENOR HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS. Sltnated In the centre of the City, done to the Cathedral and other
,nteregt * Open and cloee Carriages, and Porting In all Ita Branches. Tbs
Hotel Porters, and Omnibuses for tbs use of Visitors to the Hotel, attend the Trains.
A Night Porter In attendance. Tariff to be had on application to the Manager
CHRISTIANIA.
DAVID ANDERSEN,
Jeweller,
Prlndiem Gade 12.
M ANUFACTURER of tho noted Norwegian Spoons and Jewellery In
Filigree, Transparent and Opaque Enamel, and Norwegian Spoons
painted in Enamel.
LARGEST 8T0CK IN NORWAY, AND L0WE8T PRIGE8.
CHRISTIANIA.
Jewellers,
KARL JOHANS GADE « 7 .
Next door to the Grand Hotel.
LARGE STOCK OF NATIONAL ORNAMENTS, SPOONS,
TRANSPARENT AND OPAQUE ENAMEL.
ANTIQUITIES IN SILVER.
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MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER,
COBLENT2.
GRAND HOTEL DE BEUE VUE.
F IRST-CLASS. Commanding a eplcn-
did view of the Rhine and the
For trees of Ebrenbrelfeteln.
Moderate Charge*
H. HOC HR, Proprietor.
COBLENTZ. a
GIANT HOTEL— HOTEL
DU GEANT.
fllDK boat sltnaied yint-GUss llolol, Joat oppoMta
X the landlnf-plare of the Htemnboata and
Furtram Khrenbrelutein. Excellent CuUlne and
Cellar. Moderate Ohar(ea Kednctlon fqr a lone
'"‘“‘ch. H. EISKNMANN, Proprietor.
Electric
Light.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL
KydtanllC; .
Baths in the Hotel.
N EW H0U8R, 60 Rooms and Saloons, facing the South Portal of the Cathedral, the
Central t Rail way Station, and the New Bridge, and near the landing Place of the
Rhine Steamers.’ Excellent Ideals. Moderate Terms. Warmed by Steam.
FRITZ OBERMBrT, Proprietor.
COLOGNE.
Near Cathedral & Central Station.
LIFT.
ELECTRIC LIGHT.
English Church,
m
S Post and
s' Telegraph bffice,
y / Railway Booking
/: Office; and Luggage
registered in the Hotel.
OMNIBUS AT LVERY TRAIN.
Manager— s). FRIEDRICH.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE .
Opposite the Pier of the Rhine Steamers.
Pleasant Situation. Quiet Position. View of the** Slebeugcblrge."
(. Itiho to the Central Station and Cathedral. Billiard and Heading Rooms. Hydraulic I.lf
Klet trie Light. Moderate Charge. HERMANN KRONE, Proprietor.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DE MAYENCE.
TplCKLLKNT HO IKL, near Hallway Button and
L cathedral, opposite tba Theatre and (fan ml
Post Often Centrally situated tor all the Stshta
Comfort and Koooomy. Combined Bedroom from
Saopwarda Pension toclttdlnf Tabls d*B6te Dinner
from 7a 6A. and upwards per day. Hotel Omnibus
meets Trains and Bteameta 1
J. H. PETERS. Proprietor.
COPENHAGEN.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK fOR
DENMARK & ICELAND.
. MAPS AND PLANS.
Digitized by LaOOQLe
180/1. HURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DISCH
FIRST-RATE.
CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA).
THE GRAND HOTEL.
C. Proprietor.
"I71IRST-CLASS HOTEL, in the contro of the Town, situated in tl e
L, Hue Nationnle and Placo do la BrGchc. Specially recommended
to tourists for its excel lent management and great comfort. Thorough
modern establishment. New and stylish furniture Good cuisine. Bath
Rooms. Reading Rooms. Omnibuses to meet all trains. Modernto
Charges. , Reduction for long stay and for large families. Hotel coupons
accepted.
CONSTANTINOPLE-PERA.
GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES.
Proprietor*— L. ADAMOPOULOS et N. APERGH1S.
i r PHI8 newly established first rank Hotel— the first one in our capital
which has been built with lha last English comfort and latest Innovations— in the
centre of !'6ra, and In an exceptionally beanUful position, commanding a magnificent
| view of the Bospbonu and the whole Golden Harm opposite the public garden and the
summer theatre, la replete with every modern oomfon and donvenlenco for the accom-
modation of families and tourists .
A jpWst 4 Class fable d'Hdte. Hydraulic Lift of the Latest Pattern.
I * r boLD AND WARlt I1YQ1EN1C BATHS. KLRCTklC TELEPHONE, ETC .
Ladles' Reading and Smoking Rooms. Guaranteed Interpreters for all Languages.
COMO.
HOTEL D’lTALIE,
FW-Claas Hotel. Best situated, on the border of the Lake, commanding a splendid view.
Well tecommendcd for Its comfort and moderate charges.
A, MARTINKLYI, Proprietor,
! v COPENHAGEN.
HOTEL NATIONAL.
Faoing thef Central Railway Station and thd Tivoli Garden;
2 minutes from the Railway Station to Sweden and Norway.
This First-class Hotel, with 150 splendid Rooms nnd Saloons, is very |
much frequented by the highest of English ami American Travellers. |
The only Hotel in Town with Electric Light in every Boom.
Reading Room, Ladies' Parlour, Hot Baths. Post end Telegraph Oflico
i close' to the Hotel.. Excellent Table d’BGte. Dining 'Room. Rooms
j from 2s. per day, servico nnd light included.
{ C. W. LORENZBN, Proprietor. I
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MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
COPENHAGEN.
Hotel Kongen
of Danmark.
This FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest class of English
and American travellers, affords first-rate accommodation for families and
Bingle gentlemen. Splendid situation close to the Royal Polace^overlooking
the King’s Square. Excellent Table d’Hote. Private Dinners. Best Attend-
ance. Reading Room. Hot Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and
American Newspapers. All languages spoken. Ladies' Saloon. Moderate
charges. Vienna Coffee House. Carriages in the Hotel. Electric Lighting.
R. KLUM. Proprietor.
CORFU.
ST- GEORGE'S GRAND HOTEL
The Only First-Class Hotel .
HONOURED AND FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FAMILIES.
Rooms from 3.50 francs a day.
Pension from la francs, Light and Attendance included.
Reduction for a long stay.
PERFECT SANITARY FITTINGS. DARK ROOM FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS.
A. 8. KAZZUCHY. Proprietor.
Telegram, "8ANQIORQIO, CORFU.”
CORFU.
GRAND HOTEL
D’ANGLETERRE t BELLE VENIRE,
OOBPT7.
THE ONLY FIRST-GLASS HOTEL.
Correspondents of the Army and Navy Co-Operative Society,
Limited, London.
COUTANCES. COUTANCES.
CRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR
Fust-class Housk. EDA MAC
Best and moat Comfortable. Only oue with 1 llltNuLa
English Sanitary Arrangements. IN TW0 p A RTS. MAPS & PLANS.
LBNOURRT, Proprietor. 7*. 6< |. each p art
CREUZNACH BATH8.
HOTEL ORANIENHOF.
Lai goat First- Close House. Finest situation in own grounds. Visited by
the Crown Princess of Germany. The Oranienspring, strongest
mineral spring at Crouznacli. belongs to the Hotel. Lift
H. D. ALTEN, Proprietor.
Digitized by ^.ooole
1895.
11 OURAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
21
DINARD.
A T|A. BCAXSONT ROUOB.
F. GILBERT SMITH,
House Agent; Tea, Wine, and Spirit Merchant.
Full particular* of Furnished Houses to Let sont free on application.
DIJON.
HOTEL DU JURA.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL
Nearest to the Station. Eleotrio Light.
DINANT-SUB-MEUSE.
HOTEL DE LA TEH D’OR.
ALEXIS DISISRE, Proprietor.
LTRST-CLA8S, upon the GRAND PLACE.
f Is to be recommended for Its comfort.
Peosioa from 7 francs 50 centimes per day.
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22 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. M»y,
DINARD (BRITTANY).
11 Hours from Southampton ( via St Mato),
j The most Fashionable Sea-Bathing Beeort in the West of
France in Summer.
Noted for its mild olimate in Winter. Recommended to Golf, Tennis,
and Orickct Flayers .
For House** and Particulars, froe, apply to E. O’RORKE, Banker, Dinard.
DRESDEN.
BAUER’S HOTEL ROYAL.
DRESDEN.
Omnibus at all Railway Stations. Post and Tolcgraph Office.
Beautiful and opon situation, with Gordon and Baths. Moderate Chargob.
Tariff in overy room. Electric Light in every room. Calorifdro.
Tram cars to all parts. Pension.
Tolophone No. 2,122. Tickets to DUESDEN-NkusTADT. D. BAUER. Proprietor.
DRESDEN.
BISMARCKPLATZ, 7, opposite the central railway station.
I I | R3T-OLA88. Splendid situation In the English- A insrieua Square, overlooking the Proueunde, with a
{ beautiful garden. M oetly frequented by English and Amerbmn fhmUlM. Udioe , Meeting end
Smoking Rooms. French Cooking. Room* from 4 marks upwards. Including light and servkn. iVndou.
Telographio Address, •• BRISTOL,” Dresden. G. WENTZEL, Proprietor.
DUBLIN.
Charming sitnatioH, overlooking Stephen's ^ "
Green Park. Mast Central Position. — A m
Moderate Charges. HOTEL.
HOTEL
M-* Toll grapli OiUco ami Telspliooe lu Hotel
Elec trio Light. Hydraulio Passenger Elevator.
HOTEL
EAUX BONNES.
D£ FRANCE.
FIRST-CLASS 1I0TKL, the best in the locality. Best situation In the bcallhlrtt aod
Quest part of the towu. facing the Park, where ihe band plays. (Jloee to the Mineral
Spriugs. English spoken. Salubrious situation. Good sanitary arrangements.
dubrious situation. Good sanitary arrangements.
H. TAVERNS, Proprietor.
PRINCE OF WALES &ROMERB AD
HOTEL AND BATHING ESTABLISHMENT. '
(CHRISTIAN BALUSR.) .
FlrstrOUas Family Hotel. 90 Booms. Beat Situation (oppoalto the Kuraoal).
Own Mineral Spring. " Romerquelle “ 04.G* 0.=S5.6? £1. 18 Bathing Rooms.
I ihalatory.
Families. Ta
Large Garden.
llliuilruted rrospoctus.
and Music Saloon. Arrangements with
CMS SPA.
llotol lliioUclierliof,
With depeudance, Brauuchweicerhof.
First-class woll-knowu llouao. Beat and most
beautifully • situalod in the oentra of tho
Principal Aveuuo. Prinking Spriugs, Halim,
Oursaal. Switchback Rail, Post Ollioe close by.
Lirt. Moderato Pricoa. Special Terms for a
prolonged nUy. r JANIK. Pronrletor.
OARL ROCKER.
ENQAD1NE.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR
SWITZERIAND.
Part II. *
MAPS AN1) PLANS. 6s.
Digitized by L^OOQle
1895.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVBRTI8BB.
E N GAD I N E .
This Balnco-ClbnatAriqno Alpine Station (altitude 1,800 metres)
is celebrated for its Mineral Springs , Mineral Water Baihs t ;
and aU kinds of hydro- therapeutic appliances .
Excellent Station for Secondary Treatment alter having need the Waters of
TARASP, CARLSBAD, &c.
HOTBi.81
Karhaas, (feaes Stahlbad, Victoria, da lias, Engadinerhof,
' ' Bellsvae, Central.
ALL THE8E H0TEL8 AR £ CL08ED IN WINTER.
SaintMoritz-les-Bains,
, SEASON: 15/A June — 15/A September.
SWITZERLAND.
Tarasp Schuls Baths,
* 4 SEASON : 1#/ June — 1 5/ A September ,
THIS SPRING IS THE RICHEST EXTANT IN StflPNATE OF SODA.
Its Waters are far superior to those of either Carlsbad,
Kissingen, Marienbad, or Vidhy, owing* to the quantity
of fixed substances and carbon which they contain.
MINERAL WATER BATHS. ALPINE CLIMATE (ALTITUDE 1,200 METRES).
Sole Agents for Sale of the Tarasj* Mineral Waters:
FOR GREAT BRITAIN AND COLONIES:
R. DAVIS, 20, Maddox Street, Regent Street, LORDOR, V.
FOR THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA:
WEBER & CO., Hi, Third Avenue, REV TORI CITY.-
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34
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKRTISKR
M»7,
ENGELBERQ.
THE VALLEY OP ENSKLBEBO (MOO ft. high), HU Lomtoo. •
SaMoo 1Mb May -30th Saptembar.
KURHAUZ AND HOTEL SONNENBERG.
rTlHB property of Mr. H. HUG. Bummer stay unrivalled by ita grand
-L Alpine tceaery. Clear bracing air. equable temperature. Recommended by the highest
medical authorities. The HOTEL BONKKNBKRG, to the finest and healthiest aUaatioo
facing tbe 'Till la and the Q laden, la one of the moat comfortable and beat managed hoiele
la Switaerlaod. Lawn Tenuis Ground. Excellent and central place for sketching, botan-
lain* and the most varied and interesting excnrekma Tbe accent o f the TtUla la beet
made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Bathe. Watersprlng f° K. ; 300 Rooms:
Peoaloo from £2 6s. a week upwards. Because of Ita so sheltered aituatlon specially adapted
for a stay lo May and June. Resident English Phjnddan. English 1 Heine Service.
ENGELBERQ, SWITZERLAND.
KURHAUS HOTEL ET PENSION TITLI8.
T HIS First-Class Hotel, in the boat situation of the valley, in the middle
of an extensive gardon, has been much enlarged and improved.
200 Beds. Lofty Dining Saloon. Large Saloon de Reunion, with
Verandah. Smdking-Boom. Heading-Room. Billiards, Salle de Musique.
Lift Bloc trio Lighting in all Rooms. Batha in the Hotel. Lawn Tennis
Ground. Good attendance, with Moderate Changes.
English Chapel in the garden of the Hotel.
Eu. OATTANI, Proprietor.
EXETER, DEVONSHIRE.
POPLE’S NEW LONDON HOTEL
Patboxibkd bt H.R.H. Tub Pbikck or Walks.
A DJOINING Northeruhay Park and near the Cathedral. Large
covered Continental Courtyard.
Table d’Hdte. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuaea and Caba.
POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.
Also Proprietor of the Globe Hotel, Newton Abbot, Devon.
FLORENCE.
HOTEL HELVETIA,
STROZZI SQUABS.
Built expressly for a Hotel, full South. Opposite the Stroisi Palace Beih Room*.
Lediee Drawing Room. Reading and Billiard Booms. Large Suite of Apart roeots. Brat
English Sanitation. Pension from 8 franca. Steam Heating Throughout. Hydraulic Lift.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
1895.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
25
FBANKFOBT-ON-THB-KAIN.
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE.
Highly reputed First-Class Family Hotel, situated in the finest part of the Town. Newly
enlarged, with every modern Improvement. Lift. Baths. Electric Ught, Ac.
PATRONI8ED BY H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALE8.
J. O. BSBTHOLDT8 IBB1K Proprietor.— J. O. S1TO1T&LLBR, Director.
FRAN KFORT-ON-TH E-MAIN.
FIRST CLASS.
Opposite the Central Railway Station.
ELECTRIC LIGHT and Central Steam Heating In every room. New Reading and Smoking
Rooms. Splendid position. Lift. Telephone 1360. Moderate charges : Service,
Rooms. Splendid position. Lift. Telephone 1360. Moderate charges : Service,
Light, Heating! Included.
Few Proprietor t R. GER8TENBRAKD.
FRAN KFORT-ON-TH E-MAINE.
(Late WEIDENB USCII’S.)
well-known House, close to the Opera and Theatre.
Moderate Prices. Very Good Accommodation. Lift Electric Light*
F. IF. KNOBLAUCH, Proprietor.
FRANZENSBAD. FREIBURG (In Brelsgaa, Baden.)
HOTEL VICTORIA.
Concert Park in front of the Hotel. * Mr ? *?‘ lon . ***.
w Offices. Best Situation Good Attendance.
B. STB A US, Proprietor. Moderate Charges. Pension.
FRE UDE NSTADT. (2,800 feet above sea.)
BLACK FOREST HOTEL.
RAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART, OFFENBURG , STRASBURG .
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated In the moot healthy position on a charming hill, and
surrounded by a very extensive and beautiful Park. 60 very comfortable Bed-rooms
and Saloons, with 16 Balconies. Wat+r and Milk cures. Electricity. Massage. Pine-
needle and Sole Beths. Sanitary arrangements perfect.
BEST CENTRAL RESIDENCE for EXCURSIONS.
Elegant Coaehct and Landau Carriage at the Hotel,
English Church Service in the Hotel.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. MODERATE CHARGES. PENSION.
ERNEST LUZ, Junior, Proprietor,
GENEVA.
RICHMOND FAMILY HOTEL.
One of the beet and not too large. 60 nice Rooms facing Lake and Mont Blanc
Opposite the Landing Stage. Omnibus at the Station. Lift, Baths, Electric Light, Ac.
Rooms, Light and attendance, from 3 fraocs. Pension from f franca a day.
A. R. ARMLEDER, Proprietor, F. CHARLES BRAUN, Manager.
Digitized by L^OOQle
ELEVATOR.
26
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
GENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA POSTE.
latest Sanitary Improvements. 100 Welt-
Furnished Hoi nun frum *4 to 4 frnnr*.
\tUm«lanr«i iuh! Klivtric Light Included Only
Hotel in (Ionov* with Control .Steam Heating.
Table d'llotc, 3 and 4 franca. Winn Included.
I’mifciou. 710 fruiuta. LifL Hath Hootim
OH. SAILER. Proprietor.
GENEVA.
PENSION FLEISCHMANN
Bond Point do Plainpalais.
Near tbo Bastion Parle. Fine situation.
MODERATE CHARGES.
Elkotuio Light. Baths.
... GENEVA.
Hotel des Bergues*
>• atod full South, facing Mont Blapc ami,
IaIc* . Moderate Charges, Home Comforts.
Elootrlp Light. Lilt. Baths.
C. WACHTER, Proprietor.
GENEVA.
CRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE AND
. CONTINENTAL.
First-Class Hotel. Most Outral.
Finest Situation. Very sheltered in the Wlutcr. ‘
Electric Light throughout. ] ,
H. F. B.ATHGEB, Proprietor. *
OS NO A (ITAIiY).'
GRAND HOTEL ISOTTA!
HYDRAULIC LIFT and RAILWAY OFFICE.
ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Only FIRST-CLASS HOUSE built for an Hotel.
In the healthiest position in the town.
G. BORGARELLO Sc CH. SON.
QENOA.
HOTEL DE LONDRES
(i OPPOSITE TO RUBATTlSfTS OFFICX) *
ET PENSION ANGLAISE. ,
The Noun at tp the Central Statiou. First-class; Full South. Moderate I’rjces. Lift.
KLKC1JIA k FfORONi:
<;KKMOULfi.
GRAND HOTEL.
Vve. J. PEIMAT, Proprietress.
Tho largest and most comfortable In tho town. Beautiful situation,,
with a lino garden. 100 Boom*, 10. Saloons. Baths on cnch lloor.
Electric Light. Guides and Carriages for Exuyraions to the (Jrou^o
Chartreuse and the Dauphine'. Hotel and Roomg warmed by a Calorific
till the of May. . «
Branch House at Aix 1st Bains. Special Arrangements for Pension.
Mbs. Puimat spkaNs Enplwii,
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1895.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
27
GRENOBLE.
HOTEL MONNE T .
'PUIS sploud idly-ei tuatod Firsi-Cluss Hotel, which is tho lamest in ttio
JL Town, and enjoys tho well-taoritod faTonr 6f Families and Tourists,
has just boon considerably enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apart-
ments, largo and small, combine elegance and oomfort, and every attention
has boon paid to make this one of the beet Provincial Hotels. Public
and Private Drawing-rooms ; English and Fronoh Pa|»ors. Tablo d’Hdto
at 11 and 6. Private Dinners at any hour. Exoollont Cuisine. Moderate
Chargee.
The Omnibuses of tho Hotel meet all Trains. Baths. Interpreters.
VEUVE TMIiIjAT, Proprietress.
' First-Class Carriages can bo had at the Hotel for Excursions to the
' Grande Chartreuse, Uriagd, and all places of interest amongst the Alps
of Dauphind.
URIAGE- LES-BAIN8. v
HOTEL RESTAim^NT MONNET*
Founded in 1846. English Visitors will And every oomfort and luxury
in this First-Glass Establishment Private Rooms for Families. Excellent
Cuisine and Wines. Table d’Hdte, 11 and 6. Carriages and Horses oan
be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades.
t
GMUNDEN (Austria).
GMUNDEN.
-J
o
HOTEL BELLE YUE
%
m
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK
3
=
First- dtuts.
09
FOR SOUTH GERMANY AND
<
os
o
SPLENDID SITUATION.
s
90
AUSTRIA.
5-
ac_
A. BRACHER, Proprietor .
Part 1., 7». 0d. Part II., 6s.
THE HAGUE (HoHand).
HOTEL DES„ 1NDES,
J 1 VOOPHOUT, ' 56,' v
f PH18 magnificent FIrst-Clasn Hotel le the largest in the dtj. Charmingly situated near
x the Theatre, Park, Museum, Telegraph, and the most frequented Promenades. It is
! supplied with every modern accommodation and comfort.
Table cC B6te at Six o*dock. Restaurant a la carte at any hour .
EXCELLENT CUISINE AND CHOICE WINES.
, SMOKING ROOM, READING ROOM, BATH, AND CARRIAGES.
Booms from 2 florins a day. Electrio Light. Term* Moderate. ,
Arr angem ents made with Families daring the Winter Season.
I INTBROOMMUITAL TELEPHONE, P. WIRTZ, Proprietor .
! HAMBURG.
HOTEL 39J3 L’HVROPH.
R ENOWNED HR8T-CLA8S BOOSE, pitrtmlied by H.R.H. tin Prince of WiHwd by
moot of the Imperial and Royal Families of Europe". Splendid situation, overlooking
; the Atster-BaMin. 180 Rooms and Apartments. Elegant Reading and 8mok!ng-Rooms.
Batha. Lilt. Table (THdte. ELECTRIC LIGHT 1$ EVERY ROOM.
i HOTEL D1 L’lUEOPl (HAMBURG) CO„ Ltd,, Proprietors.
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MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
HANOVER.
Opened in January , 1894 .
FIR8T-0LA88 HOTXL, with all tha oomforta of tha spleudld, modern First-Class Hotel*.
Situated In the centre of the Town, oppoeite the Hallway Station. Heated by Steam.
Blectrio Light aud Telephone in over? room. Eloctrio lift. Hcauliful ltooms.
Electric Light aial Telephone In ovenr room. Electric lift. Hcauliful H. 1 II 1 liooma.
Wines. Good Oulslne.
Under the personal management of the Proprietor, GARL FITS.
HARROGATE.
THE GRAN BY.”
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facing the Stray. Every aooommodation
for visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning free of
charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hiro. Tennis Court in the Grounds.
W. H. MILNER, Proprietor.
HAVRE.
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE,
Rue de Paris, 124-126.
E XCEEDINGLY well situated in the best quarter of the Towu
and recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Apart-
ments for Families. Musio and Conversation Saloons. Rooms from 2 to
5 franos. Restaurant A la Carte. Table d'hftte. Breakfast 2 fr. 50c.
Dinners 3 frs,
ENGLISH AND GERMAN SPOKEN .
GESLli, Proprietor.
HEIDELBERG.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
First-Class Hotel in every respect. Exceedingly well situated.
Beautiful Verandah aud largo Garden at the heck of the Houae.
Advantageoua arrangements made with families Intending e longer stay.
Highly recommended.
HOMBURG.
HOTEL BELLE YUE.
Patronised by the Gentry of all nations.
Facing the Knrgarden. First-class in every respect. Latest Sanitary improvements.
Hydraulic Lift Electric Light throughout. Mineral end other bathe in the Hotel.
Pension in April, May, Jane, September, end October, at reduced terms.
UD ITM7M SWITZERLAND, Ct. Appenzell,
n £i 1 L/Ci II 2700 feet above sea-level.
Beautiful village, overlooking tho lake of Constauoe. Exquisite
health resort Bracing Climate.
FREIHOF & SCHWEIZERHOF
FIRST- CLASS HOTELS.
Extensive own grounds, shady perk, wonderful vie*. Affords every boms ootnfort.
First rate cuisine. Sanitary arrangements. Lawns for tennis, croquet, howls. Dances.
Casino with dally concerts. English service. Goats' Whey. Baths sod Hydrupithlc
Establishment. Electricity. Massage. Gymnastics. Milk from own farm.
Terms moderate. Pension. Advantageous arrangements. Prospectus, illustrated.
8.MOO. M.y October. Prop,. ALTHERR-SIMOND
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1895.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTI8KR.
99
HlLDCSHElM.
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE.
Pint- Glass House, situated in the oentre of the Town.
BATHS IN THE HOUSB. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION.
CENTRAL HEATING APPARATUS .
50 Rooms and Saloons fitted Up with every comfort
of modern times.
C. HEERPT.
HOMBURG.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
AND
VILLA ALEXANDRA, HELENA, AND BEATRICE.
(Private Apartments.)
Patronised b y H.R.H. tbe Prince of Wales and the Grand Duke of Mecklenbnrg-SUelltz.
Elevated and healthiest sit nation, doee to the Kursaal. Springe and Tennis Grounds.
Fine view of the Taonoe Mountains. Reasonable Terms at tbe early and latj pert of the
8eason. Stjg and Roebuck Sbootlug. Trout Fishing free for Visitors. Lift.
GUST. WEIGAND, Proprietor,
Royal Purveyor,
HOMBURG.
TTOTEL DE8 QUATRE SAISONS, and VILLA, with the finest views
JLL of the Taunus, kept by Mr. W. 8CII LOTTE URECK.— This first-rate House is
exceedingly well situated near the 8ources and the Kuraaal. It combines ever j comfort
desirable with moderate charges. It has a beautiful Garden for the use of Visitors. Highest
position, and one of tbe best Table d’HOtes In the Town. Arrangements at Moderate Prices
at tbe early and later part of the Season. Patronised by H.M. tbe Emperor Frederick,
II. At. the Empress Victoria and H.I.H. Princess Victoria of Germany.
HOMBURG.
> : to z>m qiicfcv i =>i
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL .
Ono of llio bogt in tho Town. Commanding a lino view, with Dependant*,
“ Villa Augusta,” situated in tho extensive and shady garden of
tho Hotel. Best Situation, near the Mineral Springs, the
Kursaal, and Tennis Grounds.
Splendid Diuing Room with oovered Verandahs. Finest Restaurant.
HYDRAULIC LIFT. P. A. LAY DIG, Proprietor.
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MtJHRAra HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
H»y,
EOKBURO.
HOTEL RIECHELMANN.
PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY AND BEST FAMILIES. One of tbe Bent Firsi-CUes
Hotela In tbe Town. High, Dry and Airy Position, in tbe flneet part of tbe Town.
Cloee to tbe Kuraaal and tbe Wells, lakst Sanitary Improvements. Verandalia, Beautiful
Garden. Kxcelleut Cookery. Choice Wince. Arrangements made on very reasonable
terms at an early or later part of the Season. RlEOHELMANN, Proprietor.
H Y E R E 8
HOTEL CONTINENTAL,
HOTEL DES" ILES D’OR.
These large and beautiful Establishments are situated lu the finest and most healthy
part of the Town, surrounded by charming Gardena, with Orange. Lemon and PalmTreea.
Commanding magnificent views uf tbe Sea, tbe laics of Hyires and the Mountains. Exten-
sive 1 lining Saloons, decorated with Pictures by one of tbe first country Painters of France,
Conversation. Saloons with beautiful Winter-Garden, Smoking Rooms, Billiard Saloons,
Uatbaon every floor, combining the elegance and luxury of tbe most important and attrac*
live Hotels In Europe. Moderate charges.— N.B. Pension from 9 francs per day.
OMNI0U9 AT THE STA TION,,
Finest Lawn-Tennis Ground in Hydros. E. WEBER, Proprietor.
ZLntAOOMBC HOTKL.-Oreat Ksslth ssd Plsssurs Resort.
250 Apartmonls. Uandsoino lu*xj,»4ion. Dmliig, itomlliii, Hilliard and Smoking Itnonis, all on the
nrvuud door. Ornamental U rounds of about Five Aero*. Tho dotal Marin# Bridanadoia tho Kingdom. Might
lawn Tennis Courts. Tablo d’llAte Dm nor. at separate tahlos, from S to S o’clock. Tbsro is attached to the
Hotel oue of tho laifmt Swimming Hatha In Kuf land, the temper itnro of wliicli is regelated according to tho
season ; also Private Hot and Cold Aw and Vnwh Water BaUt,, Douche. Shower. Ac. Foil descriptive Tariff
of If am ao sa, llfraonnlw, N«ith Devon. Tho aUracti.ma p( lllrarouibo, and tho I’lacus of Interost in the
noiaiihourbood. point to It as the natural contra In ho diOtou by tho Tuiiriat who dinirus to sou with comfort
all tho boautiea of Coast and Inland Soenery which North Devon affonla. There te also easy aocem
Into Sooth Devon and Cornwall. The means of ooaatnnntcaUou by ltallroad and Steamboat are must com-
plete. TomrUl Ticket* l« fl/t oco mt* for Two Mouth* are iaued during tbe Season at all the principal
Railway Stations in England.
IIiIDSE XS
(Near SARAJEVO, in BOSNIA, 409 m.)-,
Railway Station.
Sulphur and Peat Baths, like those of Carlsbad. Extremely oflicucioua in
lUiCiimatic Affections, Gout, Itacliitis, Muscular & Fomalo Diseases.
MINERAL SPRINGS; 58° C.
BATH SEASON, May to October.
NEW ESTABLISHMENTS & HOTELS , under the direction
of the State Government , provided mth every comfort.
ROOMS FROM 80 KRKUZKR UPWARDS, ATTENDANCE INCLUDED.
ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR FAMILIES.
Excellent Climate , All Modem Amusement*.
MUSIC, CROQUET, LAWN TENNIS, RACES, Ac. NO CURE RATES.
• , ... — • - — - -
| Prospectuses, if required, are forwarded by— « •
THE DIRECTION OF THE BATHS.
Digitized by L.ooQle
1890 .
MURRAY'S fl AWDB 60 R ADVERTISER.
81
iMLUi
XNNSBBUOK.
Thlrty-onb hours fj*dip LoHdon, via Arlberg, tb tnnsbHick. ' Through tickets
< iand luggage registered through^ Twenty-three hours from Paris.. ,
FIRST - CLASS
J I OT FI,.
((Opposite tho Bilhmy Station.)
CARL LANDSEE,
Proprietor.
HOTEL
DE L’EUROPE
IIE BBAUTIFUL AND SHELTERED
CUB situation of Innsbruck genders
It a very agreeable place of resi-
dence nil the i^ir round. In soring ns
well as in autumn it is especially to be
recommended as a stopping place be-
tween the different’ watering places. It
is also to be recommended after a sojourn
afrtho seaside. •( JJft )!{;,! 7 r f \T
r INNSBRUCK dsi the sentry Jrom wliioh
many splendid VxcufMons can bo tnaUe
in every direction* .and of .any length.
Attractive walks m IheiAiniMliate ncigh-
liourhood of, the town and tho different
elevations. : 1
First-Class
Establishment.
Affords every Modern Comfort.
; ; * Electric Lrnni in
Every Hoom.
STEAM AND OTHER BATIIB/
REINHARDT, Proprietor.
The climate In Winters dry, ttrenylhetHny,
tunny, free, from roll wind* and ft* 7*, has
attracted many Visitors of late years, and
among those who ligve found the greatest
relief are weak, convalescent, nervous,
nppctlteleas, and sleepless persons.
N.B. — University, Grammar, 2Iu*tc. and
btbor Schools.. Private Lessons of every
kind are available, so tlmt studies can be
continued And , tho education of children
carried on.
(Opposite the Station.)
FIRST - CLASS HOTEL.
RENOWNEb FOR ITS SUPERIOR
CUISINE AND WINE.
“ RESTAURATEUR" of the SOUTH
Railway Station.
CARL BEER, Proprietor.
(Next the Station.)
SJiCOWlt CLASS.
| | j * j tt * K)V0 ^° ,c * °ff° rH Pension
| \'L tho Winter Season, according to
^ ' ■ - ' 5m rooms, from fl.3 upwards, rooms
I included.
RlCfjliV ILLbfiT^AfED GUIDE8 of INNSBRUCK fcent on application, by the
< ,, * Proprietors of above Hotels, free of charge
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32
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVfcfctlSEB.
ILFRACOMBE.
FIR8T-CLA88 BOARDING HOUSE WITH MAGNIFICENT 8EA VIEWS.
42 BEDBOOM& BATHS. BALCONIES. BILLIARDS.
Finest Drawing IKooua In Town. 1BTJOU tiulde Gratis.
Spsolftl Sanitary Oerilfloate. W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
TERMINUS HOTEL.
Principal Station on Lake Thun Steamboat Landing Stage. Recommended.
100 Rooms. Perfect Sanitary arrangement*. Baths, Electric Light, and
Dark Room for Photographers. Moderate Charges. Pension.
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL - PENSION
F. SEILER-STEROHI, I'rojtrielor.
THIS FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, with two
branch houses, is situated in the centre of the Hftheweg, and
enjoys a splendid view of the Jungfrau and the entire range
of the Alps. It recommends itself for its delightful position,
as well as for its comfortable accommodation.
Extensive gardens and playgrounds. Close to the churches,
Kursaal, and post-office. Lift. Electric light throughout.
Baths. Lawn Tennis.
Pension rates and special arrangements for a prolonged
stay. Moderate Charges in May, Juno, and September.
INTERLAKEN.
GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES.
200 ROOM8.
LIFT. RENOWNED CUISINE.
C. RITZMANN, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR
SWITZERLAND.
Part I.
MAPS AND PLAN&
6s.
INTERLAKEN.
RUGEN HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL end PENSION. 160 Beds. Situated In tbs healthiest position,
30 metres higher then Interlaken, with Splendid View on the Jungfrau and SU ret horn.
Lift, Electric Light, Ac. Surrounded by Terraces and Gardens. Pension from 10 to 16
francs, acooriing to Room. Rednoed Prices in May, June, end after lftth September.
Season, May u> October. Lift Klectrlo Light throughout. J. ORSOH-MQLLER.Proprfriw.
Digitized by L^ooQle
1895. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER S3
INTERLAKEN.
34
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
M»f,
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL ET PENSION OBER.
ET VILLA SYLVAN A. ' ’ . ,
Fine and healthy situation in the middle of extensive sliady gardens and
meadows, with fine views on evory side. KlectHc light. Lawn Tennis. Baths.
Central heating. Fatronisod by best society. Ponsion all the your.
. HRMICEl) PRICES FROM SKl'TKM HHH IS TILL i/.l) 15. _
ISCHL (Austria).
HOTEL GOLDENES KREUZ.
Faoing the Imperial Villa. With Mountain View.
Every Modern Comfort.
Conducted personally by tho Proprietor, HANS SARSTEINER.
KILLARNEY LAKES. ~ ~
By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission.
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
FATBOMSSD BT
H.R.H. THE PRINOB OP WALES, H.R.H. THE DUKE OP CONNAUGHT,
The Royal Families of Prance and Belgium, Jfco., the Nobility and Gentry of Great
Britain and Ireland, and leading American Families.
THIS HOTEL 1* situated on the I/>wer Lake.* facing lanlsfellen. within ten minutes'
drive of the Railway Station, and a abort distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe,
for which it la the nearest starting point.
Open throughout the Yoar. * * Table D'Hote during the Season.
POSTAL TifiLbXJRAPII OFFICK IN THE HOPSK.
SPA KISSINGEN, Bavaria.
si
STATION OF THE BAVARIAN RAHWAY.
SEASON FROM MAY 1 UNTIL SEPTEMBER 30.
OST delightful il.tiuD, *lr bracing and pure, beautiful woud. with extenalre w.lka,
riding and driving. Comfortable Hotels, Restaurants, and private Boarding* Houses.
Bathing Establishments, ou a grand scale In the Royal Saline, the Kurhaus, and the Aktlen-
Ikid (the Utter U open from April 16 till October 20). Most efficient Mineral Waters,
nucb as Uackocxy, Pandur Maxbrunuen. with Chalybeate, Sool-gaa, Steam and Moor baths.
Pneumatic Room (Glocke). Inhalation Fatabllshments, with nitrogen luhaUtlon. Hydro
and Klectric-therapeutlc Treatment. Occasion to use the Terrain Cure. Masaege and
Hygienic Oymnartic. Whey-Core. Superior Orchestra, Theatre, Elegant Conversation
Saloons, Music, Playing, and Reading Rooms, Large Garden and Pleasure Grounds.
Prospectus, sent free and poet paid, on application to the ROYAL BADKOMMISSARIAT.
Bad-KUringen. ___________________________
LINZ.
NEUBAUER ZUM ROTHEN KREBS HOTEL.
FtavCIasa Hotel of old repute.
Commanding a magnificent view of the Danube and neighboring mountains.
100 Rooms and Saloons. Library. Reudirg Saloon. Omnibus to all Trains.
The Hotel Is under tbe 8operintendenoe of the Proprietor, R. NEURA VER, himself.
LISBON.
HOTEL DURAND (English Hotel)
LARGO BO QUINTELLA .
FIRST CLASS ESTABLISHMENT.
Sitaatad la tbe rooat central part of tha Tuwtl
H ighly r«oumn» nded for Its »*mfort and modamta
Vslwi g—. Raaiilng ID om S v. r-»l ’a* gu 'go* *p »k« a.
LUCERNE.
HOTEL DU RIGI.
Comfortable, pleasant situation.
Op»n from Stb APRIL to 6th OCTOBER.
Digitized by i^ooQle
MURRAY'S HaKDROoK AtoVfcRtlsER.
the 6BARD HOTEL
T Ap A BMA , . . T KB MINUS of the OOTHABD
LUvAnllU* AaILWA-Y on LA (JO MAQOIOBE.
BSSTiSTOPPtltd PUCK M <JU f • " "
the GRID HOTEL
from Genoa. 5 hr». from Lucerne. '"* f *** ,1# •*w * m
OPEN the whole yoar. Moet luxurious and ooinfortablo home for all
the seasons in Italy or Switzerland. Patronised by all the Royal Families. Unrivalled
situation In the finest climate of Europe ; without snow, wind or fog, bat with plenty of
sunshine. Entirely adapted ror winter reaidenoe. Pronounced by the
body Physician of H.fi. The King of Bavaria and University -Prof. Alois Marti* -to be
tho healthiest and best All Seasons Resort. Beautiful walks and mountain excursions
English Church, Doctor. Society. Lilt. Private 6teamer and Carriages for visitor*.
Exqalaite Cuisine. Moderate chargee. Electric Light In every room.
Messrs. BALL1, Proprietors.
LADIES and ALL
Travellers exposed to the tun and dost, will find
® Rowland’s Kalydor
Most cooling, soothing, healing, and refreshing to the a
face and hands. It allays all beat and Irritability of the
skin, removes redness, sunburn, soreness of the skin
I causes 1 by stings of Insects, prickly beat, freckles, tan,
and discoloration, and reallsea a healtby purity and
delicacy of complexion. Bottles, 2a. 3d. and 4a. fid,
Rowland’s MaeassarOil
An Invlgorstor, PurlfW and Deautlfler of tbe Hair be-
yond a>l precedent. 8old also in a golden colour for lair
And golden- haired people and children. 3s. 6d. y 7a.,
And lOa. fid. per bottle equal to 4 small site.
__ Rowland’s Odonto,
r -X/v^ a Pearl Dentifrice for giving a pearl-like whiteness to
the teeth and fragrance to the breath.
ESSENCE OF) TYRE ™ h “ r a pen “ nent
ElllffllllA A P ure toilet powder In three tints. White, Roee, and Cream for
LUIU1IM ladles of a Brunette complexion and those who do not like white
powder. Boxes, Is., large boxes, 3a. 6d. Ask Chemists for ROWLANDS’ ARTICLES,
of 30, Hattox GArden, London, and avoid Spurious Imitations.
LUcErtNE.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
, PPYFFER A; Ctl. (Lucerne), Proprietors.
THIS large and splendid HOTEL' is ono of the most comfortable in
Huropc. - Situated in front, of the Lak?, with the finest Views.
LIFT. “I 860 BfeD 8 . LARdE HALL.
ELECfRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM.
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UORBArS HANDBOOK ADVKRTlsKR.
’ ««y.
LUCERNE.
HOTEL DU LAC.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 200 BEDS.
Beautifully situated on the Lake, at the point where the River Reuse
issues from it, close to the Railway Station and Steamboat Pier. Affords
eviry convenience and comfort. Hydraulic lift, olectrio lighting, large
garden ; excellent baths, brine and vapour baths, and in particular the
famous carbonic baths (system patented by Frederick Keller, of Dresden).
Open from (J a. in. to 8 p.m. Rn pension terms for a prolonged stay.
OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. EXCELLENT SYSTEM OF HEATING.
Proprietors: SPILLMANN A SICKERT.
LUCERNE.
SCHWEIZERHOr "™* LDZERNERHOF.
First-Class I I otels.
IN THE BEST SITUATION on the LAKE and PROMENADE.
600 JBEDSr
LIFT AND ELEOTRIO LIGHT IN BOTH HOTELS.
ARRANGEMENT XX PXXSIOX WITH PItOTKACTED STAY (EXCLUSIVE OF
JULY AND AUGUST).
SOHWEIZERHOF OPEN ALL THE YEAR.
WITH GOOD WARMING SYSTEM.
Proprietors, HAUSER BROTHERS.
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1895 .
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
87
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL
Patronized by the English and Continental Royal Families .
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, especially favourite and attrac-
tive. Table d’Hote. Reading and Drawing Rooms. New Smoking
and Billiard Pavilions, all Facing the Sea. Magnificent Views, and
Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres. Private Hotel and Boarding
House attached. ELECTRIC LIGHTING.
THOS. BAKER, Proprietor.
LYONS.
HOTEL UNIVERS,
FACING PEBBAOHE STATION.
THE MOST COMFORTABLE.
First Class. Full South.
Mrs. DUFOUR IS ENGLISH.
LYONS.
GRAND HOTEL DE LYON.
Sltvsf. glass §?amUp Jbofel.
8plendld Situation in the Centre of the Town. Hydraulic Lift.
Electric Light Telephone.
MADEIRA.
JONES’ BELLA VISTA HOTEL.
Finest Situation in the Island. 150 feet above Sea level.
Splendid view of Sea, Mountains, and Valley.
The only Hotel with three acres of level Garden ground attached.
Tennis Court and Billiard Rooms. 50 Bed Rooms.
8PECIAL TERMS FOR FAMILIES.
Telegraphic Address : — ** 8ANSPAREIL, MADEIRA." Terms on application*
EUGENE E JONES. Proprietor.
MALMO (8weden).
» = - wrw^ T i * s a -
Fir* Ow B i l A *1"* mmt bo* oobTotaMo Hi IM town. Sow m 4 rfekly M«4 api 100 Booms.
BO-HwaspB la Its sfcfalty of lbs Msiy BaO o - —4 O m b U* Ib<I*» Oss oftl.s
mo* oosboAmi. s*, i Bps ntl of rfc or gs tL sm «( Ihs ekoopBt koto's la flcaadlaarfa. B oobs from
1 krosM ipsa*. Baft* ao4 eorrfefo La Uw kotoL Kools k la carta al ad koara. hs apl *m4 pollto
■rtsalsaia B iss sr ksp* ready far p— iiii§bs.
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MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
Bfl^kSSXBwA. (Funchal). ■ I
bbib’s aoimiiS.
« ; , (BaUbliehed ISSO?* .. ! ** .
By* appointment to H.BJEL the Duke of Edinburgh. ’ • 1
S AH TA 1 “ AdmlraUy *ii anted, owk«UA( lanrhal, Am vifw at the m ow » lal ® a
E Kip’ll VEV HOTEL-— ‘liueLd on the out* lo the wee t of Kouchml. on I bo How Bond, owrlook<»g
•Wofc Oto*m 1 view ortho UoaRUina. Men imlilng ami boating.
MILES'S GAR MO HOTEL.— i® *belU;red control pwition I <
IMPERIAL HOTEL-*" RomL
lllfllli HOTEL.— Good centre for «enery at the Interior aid north oT the bland.
Tbaao fluhi • Laos HOlKLS #*<*d oven eomfert lor huaillm and traveller*. iMlhatCaUMiad
rbuiro viMf. Tanola Court*. Urv* L-ardena, both*, tending and Mooting rooma. English and Owrmaa
Mirgapm. Billlarda. The SANITAuY arrangement# bnvebeeu carried cot I iy the Bonnet SenlUbw Ota, ‘
at iMdon. All Meamera mot.
Telegraph le A.tdree*: “ Reid, Funohal.” PAMFHIXT FRKK.
Apply to r. PASSMORE. 124. Chenpelde. London, or WILLIAM REID. Made U a.
GRAND HOTEL*bE LA PAIX
PUERTA DEL SOL 11 and 12.
■ w e pm aM
fkZ'hjm .afCflflA
FIKHT-OLASS HOTEL. The only French Hotel in Madrid;* Electric
Light. Electric Lift. Moderate Prices. j. CAPDEVILLK, I’koi-mibtor.
Proprietor, T. F. H. HORN, from Hamburg.
Renowned Klrst-cla** llouao In the moot beautiful « antral locution of the town, opposite the Bailway
Station and the port. Every nomf.irt of modem time* ni meliorate term*. Large Vienna Gaff, with dallr
Orcbaatra Concert*. lintel. RnUnmnt, lialha, CairU^i*. Dinner kept ready for through-; laveDen to
Hturkholm and llw Interior of Mwedou.
MARIENBAD.
LTRST-CLASS HOUSE, patronised by English. Ele?atod . position
1 near the springs and bath establishments. Singln rooms and family apartments
furnished with every modern comfort and luxury. Carriage* for excursions. Omnibus at
4,1 tr4,,,, • H AUUBBSOHUID, Proprietor.
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1805.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER,
MARIENBAD.
HOTEL KLINGER.
FIR8T and Largost Hotel, with private houses, HALBMAYR’S HOUSE,
A MAXHOF No. 100, and the newly-rebuilt HOTEL KLINGER. Moot beautifully
situated In this Health Resort. Corner house of the Promenade on the Kieusbrunnen
and the Park, commanding a charming vie#. Newly and elegantly furnished. 360
Rooms and Saloons. Conversation and Smoking Rooms. Electric Lighting. Three new
Accumulator Lilts of the newest system. Tame d’Hdte and i la Carte. Meals sent out
Into private houses as per arrangement and k la earte.
Carriages at the Hotel : Omnihue at the Station,
J. A. HAXBMAYR, Proprietor.
; MAYE.NCE.
■ Hotel d’Angleterrfe.
’ This slogan t, flnt>vmto Hotel, '(mated In hted of ih« Rhise, k the aearast to- (ho Laadlng-pto* of the
• ■teamboate. litndt* and plotnrssqno v lows uf iho Rhino and mountains. English o o mfar t Table dilate
! IT IS THE ONLY HOTEL INI MAYENCE HAVINC LIFT.
JBAN PBOHT, New Proprietor,
MARIENBAD.
HOTEL | 'CASINO.
Tula well-known favourite flnt-etass Hotel le moot
romrenlrntly ami Admirably altaaisd.aqd Iim Alaftrs
ami beautiful gardnii. Moderate I'liaricm. Fortirn
New s pa p er s . Law Tennk. Electric light tbrough-
*jot the H«4eL Ilighh recommended. • Omnibus
■ tlie Station. . OR.. V. PK|Z)LPT. Prop.
Valais. MArTIGNY. Switzerland.
HOTEL dfl GRAHD ST. BERNARD
BXAE TKk aamWAT STATIOJT. . .
V. GAY CROSIER. Proprietor.
Meals served at any hour. Moderate
charges. Carriages for Chamonix and the
Grand St. Bernard at a reduced tariff.
ST. RKRNARP POOS FOB SALK. •
FIRSr-CLA8S HOTEL. Finest Position and 8plendld View of the Rhine. Especially
recommended, to English and American Travellers. Rooms, Including Light sndAttsn-
dance, from 1. traucs 60 oen times. Omnibus at 8tation. For a long stay Pensfod. 1 f
• \ ,\ . *t * i i 1 \ • 8CHZMMBU Proprietor i *!*
j ^ ^ t ,,m YE JS^ T.T, Aj M —
! WELU^OWjT" F iH8T^LA8'^iOTBL. Thorough Oo^rt,
» » excellent Cooklug, Choice Wines, at Moderate Charges. Since the removal of the
railway, the Finest end, Best Situated Hotel In the Town, affording an.open view. or the
river. . fgvburite and quiet stopping pUee for eicdrstons Into* thd neighbourhood. Special
arrangements for Winter abode. Opposite the landing place of the eteemTS. Omnibus
, meets all trains. . , , ' Proprietor; RUDOLPH BJ8IDRL.
■ MENTONE.
, GRAND HOTEL DE VENISE.
AHCSNSkVR. UIT.
FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH HOUSE, situated In a large garden, foil sooth, far from the sea.
» KesUuraut, Smoking and Heading Rooms. South aspect,
j Luncheon amt Dinner served At nrpnVate tables. ,/. SOMAZZT, Proprietor.
MILAN.
Bellini's Hotel Termliitis.
The only real English Hotel near the Station.
HeaUd throughout! Moderate Charges.
H«del Coupons accepted. Porter meets
Train*. F> BELLINI. Proprietor.
. _ HOTEL DE METZ.
Firs t-6l ass Rstabltshmcut, rocora mend able in
every respect.
Patronised by H.R H. the Prinoe of Wales.
Table d'Hote at 11 k a.m., and 1 and tl o'clock
tondon Times. Obargus Moderate. Omnibus
to and from etenr Train. Telegraphic Address :
MOT Kb MKT l, MHt. J. Armbrndw- Frog rMvr.
Digitized by L^OOQle
40
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
MILAN.
PLACE CAVOUR, just opposite the Public Gardens.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL with overy Modern Comfort. Lift, Electric Light, Winter
Garden. Public Rooms, Kailway Office. Excellent Table d’Hote. Moderate Chargee.
K MANUEL S UAH nr. Proprietor.
MILAN.
THE only Hotel on tho Piazza del Duomo. First Class, with moderate
Charge*. Hydraulic Lift. Tariff in every Boom. Highly reoom-
mended to English aud American Families. Central Steam-heating in all
Rooms. 1 4 . BUFF, Proprietor.
MILAN.
HOTEL DE ROME.
Admirably situated, full South, on the Ooreo, a few steps from the Duomo, Scale,
and Galleries. This Hotel, comfortably furnished and fitted up with the greatest care.
Is warmly reco mm ended to Engl is h travellers for its comfort and moderate charges.
Branch House — PIAZZA FONTANA, 8 and zo.
LIFT. BORKLLA BROTHERS, Proprietors.
MILAN.
HOTEL CENTRAL S. MARC.
Situated In tho midst of the Town, near tbo
Post and 'IVlcgraph Oitloes. Close to the
Cathedral. Very comfortablo house aud woll
recommended by Travellers. Table d'hote and
Restaurant. Pension, vary moderate charges.
Rooms from S francs upwards. Omnibus at
Station. Antonietti A OaaarteUo, prmpruton.
MONTREUX.
HOTEL BELMONT,
eat. quietest, aud most charming part. Stands
woll up from the lake. Splendid and uurivallnd
Views. Burrouitdod by shady terraces, a wind*
Ing garden paths. Rasy aooossfroir “ "
latest sanitary arrangements. Lai
Milk d grape oure. Lift. Omnibus.
Rasy access from the town.
Lawn Tennis.
... us. Moderate
__ Donaldson, Proprietor
Branch gwiiig»>yphom\ IQTOtt' A.flr Bwjghry.-
1 grape «
Terms. Tbs. Unger
ipHot
MOSCOW.
HOTEL SLAVIAHSKY BAZAR.
The Largest First-Class Hotel in this Town.
SPi^NDID TIBSTAURANT, HEADINQ,
ftKD BATH-T^OO]il 3 .
roxtnxaw srswsro.x>zixts.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN.
Omnibus. Interpreters to all Railway Stations.
tZcUphone. Rcat anb <<ZeItgraph (Dfffcta in the hone*.
Digitized by L^ooQle
1895.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
41
MAXIMILIAN 0 BOUNDS. MUNICH. MAXIMILIAN 0 BOUNDS.
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL.
SPLENDID FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Situated In tha most quiet and fashionable
quarter, and near all objects of interest.
All modem comforts aod Improvements. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. Electric Light.
Moderate Charge*. M. DIENER. Proprietor.
MUNICH.
HOTEL DE L’EUROPE.
First-Class Hotel. Opposite the Central Station. Near the Post and Telegraph Officer.
Entirely Newly Famished. Hydrsallo Lift. No Charge for Light and Service.
Baths In the Hotel. Reading and Smoking Rooms. Moderate Charges.
Conducted by the Proprietor— B. 8CHMOLLER.
MURREN (Switzerland).
GRAND HOTEL KURHAUS
OLDEST AND LARGEST FIRST-CLASS HOTEL
330 BEDROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Medical Doctor.
M. 8TERCHI WETTACH, Proprietor.
MANAGER: T. MULLER,
Proprietor of the WEST-END HOTEL, NAPLES.
NAPLE8.
THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
Open all the year round. Qua! Partbenope (New Embankment). Splendid situation—
fall 8oatb. Close to the Public Garden and the centre of the town, with magnificent view
of the Bay and Vesuvius. Hydraulic Lift, Electric Light, Telegraph and Post Office.
Every kind of baths. Moderate charges. R. wAEHLER, Proprietor.
BATH NAUHEIM.
SPRENCEL’S PARK HOTEL
IU wMMom Boo* a, la tha mort heantlfal location
of Ik* Park, aaxt to the Bprtnm and Bath-hoorna.
Onmmmr Imaoa. Tnr Voonin Tniu
rot Pmm Ktoetrlo Light. Own Carriage* at
th* Railway Matte.
NERVI.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
Near tha tea and Railway Station. 15 Mlnutca
from Genoa. Stopping place for all exprem tr*lna
Patron toed hy HJCthe Qaeen of Ptetngal, and
H.E*e. the MaraoheD wn Maltha.
HTDRAULIO LDT
NICE.
HOTBL-FIINSZOM BUZBBZ1.
MaiilReeilflow. Urge Garden. Birin Henne.
Clese to the Grand Opera and Casino. r«r*u *» r^uionjtvm s/n. * Jay.
flAmraar C*»twvutbi •• Wa bweby eartlf) that tb* Drainage and Sanitary Arrangammta of the
HOTBL PMM8XGM 8UISSM at NICK hare been entirely reconetnioted la thTmoet thorough
attaow, wader my okaa pereonal mrporrtolon, aod therefore tha Hotel le bow In a eattofaotory military
e-rt'Uoo. —i) Hugh Burra. C.K., Anylnttr Bwnrym. Kmylitk feaftory Company.
in Ole IWBWF lRA'
NICE.
GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE
AND PARADIS.
F\rwtr€%au. Centre of the Town.
T. CILKPAUX. Proprietor.
NICE.
GRAND HOTEL
D’ANGLETERRE.
Patronised by English and Foreign
Royalty.
Digitized by ^.ooQle
42 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
NEUHAUSEN - SCHAFFHAUSEN, SWITZTOP?
flails of the
\
VIEW FROM THE HOTEL' SCHWEIZERHOF.
F. WEGENSTEIN, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL , replete with every convenience 1
end comfort \ u . ; ’ *
200 Rooms. Fire Escapes. Hydraulic Lift.
• -*-*♦ t — ■ * ■ * ; • I
Splendid Viewq of the celebrated Falls of ' the fthine. and
Chain of the Alps, including Mont Blanc, covering '
an oxtont of hundreds yf ihilcs.
FINE PA RK AND GARDENS. ’* ‘ '
A Charming Summer Resort, poted for its healthy position,
bracing air, and most beautiful landscape.
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR A PROTRACTED STAY. -
No Extra Charge for Lights and Service. No Gratuities to Servants.
Hotel Omnibuses meet Trains at Neuhausen & Schaffhausen.
BY MEANS OP ELECTRICITY AND < BENGAL LIGHTS THE FALLS OP
THR RHINE ARE BRILLIANTLY ILI^MINAT^D
EVERY NIGHT DURING THE SEASON.
English Divine Service in the New Churoh located in. the
Grounds of thq Schweizei hof. . > .
Digitized by L^ooQle
1895.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
43
• < • V 3 p I
NUREMBERG.
rc my 3 ■ .
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, well situated, opposite the Krtogerdenkmal, newly re-bjillt,
contains 110 elegantly forniabed Rooms and Saloons, and Is much frequented by English
and American families. Arrangements made with Families and Single persons. Baths
In the bouse. Carriages. Omtrfbos to and from the Station.
LIFT. WILLY SCHLENK, Proprietor.
NURNBERG (NUREMBERG).
HOTEL BAYERISCHER-HOF.
THIS Mist- rata sad Saparlor Hotel, •Hotted In tha oantra «f tba town, la highly Bfohra of by XagtU and
Amor lean Trawl ten for Iw amoral, eon fait and mtenta ehaifia Saa bean greatly onlarytad, and
oonialna now 1 00 well-riirnbbod ruoma ana nloona. Latter and Bra ding Saloon. Burkina Boom, hr., and
a bnaotlfnl largo Dining-Room. Engliah and Foreign Ba w apapare. (tenia gw at tha Hotal. Omnlbwaaa
to and from neh train. Kngllah Char oh In the Hotel i Divine Benrtea ovary Sunday.
ODESSA.
Hotel d* Europe.
BEST SITUATED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
BNGLX8H SPOKEN.
A. MAGENER, Proprietor.
J. AUXKGSR, Proprietor
OSTEND.
GRAND HOTEL LEOPOLD II:
First Clash Engliah Family Hotel. Kioetrie
Idght throughout. Ilootn. Light and Allen-
cLauoo from 8 francs, with Board 9 francs a
day. Arrangements with Families, and for
long stay. E. DAVID VAHCUYOK,
Proprietor and. Manager. Speaks English.
OSTEND.
FIRST-CLA> 8 HOTEL FACING THE BATHING PLACE.
Open from the 1st June to 15th October. Highly recommended.
LIFT TO ALL FLOORS.
J. & O. THOMA, Proprietors.
OSTEND.
GRAND HOTEL DU LITTORAL
Most fashionable part of the Digue, faolngr Sea.
LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY. LIFT, Etc .
BOARD fVom lO#. per day.
OSTEND.
Tbe Most Fashionable Hotel and Restaurant In the Place. Finest situation fachigfhe
Sea and Baths, and next to tho Palace of the Royal Family, Sc. Elevator. (
200 Beds and Saloons. Alt Modern Comforts. Omnibus meets Steamers and Trains
Address for iAtUrs and Cablegrams: "SPLENDID, OSTEND.*’
OSTBND.
GREAT OCEAN HOTEL.
FIB8T-0LAB8 ft MOST FASHIONABLE HOTEL ’ ft RS8TATOAHT.
LBS ft X08T FASHIONABLE HOTEL ’ ft EBB
UnritAllbd fob their Situation.
Facing Sea and Baths. Highly Becowimended.
Lift to all Boors.
OSTEND.
“ THE CAND AND ALBION HOTEL,"
' CREEN SQUARE. '
Close to the 8ea and Casino. The most oomfort-
able Hotel for Bngllsh Visitors. Boarding terms
* . No extras. Special terms for visitor*
B*. per day. No extras. Special terms for V 1st tors
staying by the week. Tariff on application.
N.B-— The Omnibus of the Hotel oonreye
traveller* free from the Trains and Steamers.
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44
MURRAT'3 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
PARIS
HOTEL MIRABEAU.
8, Rue de In. Paix, 8.
Patronized by the Royal Families of several Courts of Europe.
BEAUTIFULLY situated in the finest part of the City ; the prettiest
Court-Yard in Paris. Restaurant h la carte , and Private Dinners at fixed
prices. Apartments of all sixes for Families and Gentlemen. American
and English Papers. Lift, &o.
PETIT (Vnole and Wepbew), Proprietors*
GRAND HOTEiTbEAU SEJOUR.
Sr, BiMS
Ifultjfimad 1^ f v 7W» .>
ysuN MSBsJspf' x ■ t
Hi *13
7 *1 ' — -v-TT
^fiffMl :fil A VEynw f
'tk Tit,"
It ATj f7Y£E|
r- , T
FIRST-CLASS. Recommended for its Comfort Incomparable position
for beaut/ of tba Panorama. Apartments fur Families, with view embracing the
Pjrintes. Excellent Cooking and irreproachable attendance. BOURDXTTP, I’rvprUior.
The Drainage perfected under the most modern system.
PAU.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
rpHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Royale, oom-
A manda the moat splendid view of the whole chain of the Pyrtntes, and is adjoining
to the English Club. Improved Lift. . N
CARD EBBS FBBBB8, Proprietors.
PEGLI.
GARGINI’S GRAND HOTEL.
OLD DORI A PALACE. Ever/ modern Improvement. Full South. Splendid see view.
Large Garden. Calorifere. Pension from 7 franca upwards. One hour's Tram distance
from Geooa. Frequent Trains. Mrs* Gargini is English.
Address i OAEOpr;, PlOiZ.
Digitized by i^ooQle
MURtUT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
PISA. PI 8 A.
GRAND HOTEL. Grand Hotel Victoria.
Flrst-Clau House Full 8outh. FIRSt-CUSS HOUSE. FULL SOUTH.
Mod.IUTK CllABOB. On uk Long, a too. long ctfablbbed
First-Class House. Full 8outh.
Modbratk Ctiarom.
J. QARBRECHT.
On the Long* Arno,
reputation.
POITIER8.
GRAND HOTEL DE PRANCE,
Flrst-Ctaes and recommended to Fanil Uea and Tonrlata for Ha comfort and good manage-
ment. The moat central of the Town, near the Hotel de Vllie, Prefecture, Telegraph,
l’oet Office, Museum, Historical Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and
truffled PAtfe of all aorta. Carriages for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel.
ROBLIN-BOUCHARDBAU, Proprietor.
PONTRESINA (Engadine, Switzerland).
Hotel Kronenhof and Bellavista.
First-Class Hotel . 200 Beds .
M08TLY FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN \T8ITOR8.
BEAUTIFULLY 8 ITU ATE D.
REDUCED TERMS IN SPRING AND AUTUMN.
Special Arrangements for Families.
HOTEL LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY.
Zb ORKDIO, Proprietor.
(Engadine.) PONTRESINA. (Switzerland.)
HOTEL PONTRESINA.
First-Class Hotel .
0PP08ITE THE R08EQ-6LACIER8. BY THE ENGLISH CHURCH.
LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY.
200 BEDS. HYDRAULIC LIFT. LAWN TENNI8.
Reduced Terms for Rooms in 8 p ring and Autumn .
PI. 8T0PPANY, Proprietor.
PRAGUE.
HOTEL ERZHERZOG STEPHAN
FIRST CLA88 HOTEL, on the M Wenmlsplats," nearest to the Railway Stallone and the
Poet and Telegraph Offloe. Elegantly furnished Rooms and Apartments. Garden.
Restaurant. Vieoneee Coffee-house. Spleodld Cooking and good Wines. Baths. Telephone.
Carriages. Station of the Tram Cara. Omnibus at the Station.
PRAGUE.
HOTEL
First-Class Family Hotel in the centre cf the town. Patronised by English ard
Americana. First-rate attendance. Moderate Charges. English Ohoreh Service every
8 ud. 7 inth.H 0 UL O. ft H. WBLZBB, Proprietor*
Digitized by L^OOQle
46 HURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Ha ft
HOTEL AND PENSION RIGI-SCHEIDEGG.
Terminus Station of the lUgl Kaltbid-Scheidegg Hallway. Excellently suited for
Tourists snd Pensioners. Pension by s stay of not less than five days, 8 franca to
18 francs. Room included. Liberal treatment View on the Alps as beautiful
as at Rlgi Kulm. English Service. lawn Tennis U rounds.
Dr. R. 8TIERLIN-H AU8ER.
ROME.
GRAND HOTEL MARINI.
First-Class. Unrivalled for its healthy, quiet, and central
situation. Full South. Lift. Electric Light.
( OPEN ALL THE YEAR.)
__ E. MARINI & CO.
ROME.
HOTEL ROYAL MAZZERI.
Via Venti Settembre.
FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, situated full South, on tho highest
and healthiest part of Borne.
Lift. Calorifhre. Electric Light throughout.
ROME.
HOTEL BELLEVUE.
VIA NAZIONALB (Ourmtr oj Fw QmiHmnU).
Pull South. Facing Aldsbraudlnls Villa.
Near the Royal Palacq. Lift. Electric Light.
Moderate -Charge*. Modem Comforts.
11. KEPLER. B. FOSSATI,
Manager (Ati'iw). 1‘rayritO-r.
RHEIM8.
GRAND HOTEL DU LION D’OR.
First-class Hotel. Vest situation, opposite
the Cathedral. Comfortable Bed and Sitting
Rooms. Private Apartments for Families.
Table d'Hote and Restaurant a la Oarto.
Snaking Room. Choice Wines. Moderate
Charges. Perfect sanitary arrangements.
J RADl£, Proprietor-
Digitized by L^ooQle
1895.
Murray’s handbook advertiser.
47
ROME.
hotel molaro.
56, VIA GfcEGORIANA {Near to the Plncio).
FULL SOUTH.
its
Healthiest Situation in Town, and. very Central. .Old Reputation for
i Comfort and taoddrate Changes. 5
HYDRA U L.I!C LIFT.
Winter Garden. E lectric Light and C&lorifere.
ROME.
CONTINENTAL
HOTEL.
fyjhNodety Contorts. \ J.dpeh' a$/ Year Round.
R-JLOGANI, Proprietor.
ROME.
GRAND HOTEL D’EUROPE.
’ PLACE D’ESPAGNE AND PLACE MIGNANELLI.
First-Class House- In the Healthiest part of Rome.
(Full South.)
HIGHLY PERFECTED ; SANITARY 'ARRANGEMENTS.
Lift. Electric Light in every Room.
Inte r garden; BESTADRANT.
Trtk CUISINE WILL, AS FORMERLY,
RECEIVE THE MOST MINUTE CARE.
The m I? renovated with every modern comfort by the old Proprietor :
. ETTORE FftANCESCHINI.
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48
HURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
M»r.
ROME.
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE.
Op«n all year round.
FIRST CLASS. MODERATE CHARGES .
_ H. BILRNZI, Proprietor.
hum S'.
HOTEL DE LONDRES.
CENTRAL FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
IN THE OPEN PLAGE OF PIAZZA LI SPAONA.
THE H8ALTHIIST PART OP BOMS.
FULL SOUTH. VERY SUNNY A8PE0T.
HYDRAULIC ELEVATOR. VERY GOOD COOKING. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
The Charges are on a par with those of other First-Class Hotels.
C. m/tPANO, Manager PH, SILENZ /, Proprietor
HOIK.
GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE
BT DBS
ILES BRITANNIQUES.
NEW AND PERFECT 8ANITARY ARRAN Q EM ENT8.
Full South. Unique FotUion. Only Hotel with Sunny Grounds and Garden.
LIFT. CAL0RIFERE8. ELECTRIC LIGHT. AIRY PUBLIC ROOMS.
FIRST GLASS OUISINB.
H. SILENZ I, Proprietor.
“ ROME.
Highest Position in Rome .
SITUATED ON THE PINOIAN HILL. COMMANDING FINE
VIEW OVER ROME AND OAMPAGNA.
B1VGLI8H HOTEL.
SAME MANAGEMENT, EDEN HOUSE, LUCERNE.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE, IN THE BEST SITUATION.
BKODKKM OOMTORT.
NISTXLWICK * HA88X.K*, Proprietors.
Quartisr dss Xtraafsrs.] ROME. [M, Yia Aurora. Family Hotel.
Lift.
HOTEL PENSION BEAU SITE.
Bsths. QUoritees. English Sanitary Arrangements. Firs Private Saloons.
Good Cookery. Terms from 8 to 12 francs per day.
U. SILENZI BECCARI, Proprietor.
Digitized by L^ooQle
1805. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49
ROME.
GRANDE PENSION TELLENBACH
DUC UACELLI, 66 d 67 (.Clou to Piazza d! 8pagna and the Plnelo. .)
SUNNY POSITION. 120 ROOMS AND SALONS.
OLD RENOWNED HIGH-CLASS FAMILY PENSION.
Row Open nil the Tear.
COMFORTABLE. FASHIONABLE. HEALTHY.
▲t the Beginning* and End of the Season Reduced Prices.
TAfl. Large Drawing, Smoking and Rending Rooms. Bath.
ROUEN.
GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE.
/YN THE QUAY, commanding the finest view of the Soine; Mr. A.
^ Monnikr, Proprietor, Suooeesor of Mr. Lion Bouchard. Travellers
will find at this first-rate Establishment airy Rooms, Good Beds, Ex-
cellent Cooking, Wines of tbo best quality, in fact, every comfort, and at
moderate charges. Table d’hdte at 6 o’clock. “ Restaurant h la Carte.”
Smoking-room. Travellers are respectfully recommended not to permit
themselves to be misled by commissioners, etc.
&OVBN.
Grand Hotel de Paris.
F1KST-CLA8S HOTEL diluted on the Quay. The most beautiful situation in the Town.
Clone u> the Poet and Telegraph Offices, and Ibe Landing Stages of the Havre Steamm.
This Hotel has been newly furnished, and now offers equally as comfortable accommodation
as the Largest Hotels, but with more moderate terms.
Mtne. BATATLiLARD, Proprietress (formerl* of /fold de V Europe, If aeon).
ROUEN.
HOTEL DE LA POSTE.
Rooms lighted by Electricity and heated by Calorlfere. Situated opposite the Tost Office
In the finest Central part of the Town. Magnificent Garden in front of the Hotel. Reading.
Music, and Writing Saloons. English Newspapers. English and German spoken. Rooms
ln»m 3 fra. ; Breakfast 1 flr. 50c. ; Lunch 3 Ira. BO c. ; Dinner 3 ire. 50 c. Telkthokk.
ROYAT LE8 BAINS.
GRAND HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL HYDRAULIC LIFT.
OPEN FROM 15th MAY TO 15th OCTOBER.
I.. BXRVAWT, Proprietor.
8AUMUR.
SWEDEN.
HOTEL BOD AH.
MURRAYS HANDBOOK FOR
The only one on the banks oi
the Loire.
SWEDEN.
8V LENT) ID VIEW.
MAPI) AND PLANS. 6s.
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50
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
(10* o*n/nm Mn.) SAN BERNARDINO. (« hour, from BMInai*.)
ITALIAN SWITZERLAND, 6,316 feet above tl»e Sea.
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
FIRST
CLASS
HOTEL.
150
BEDS.
Baths and Douches ; Heating: Apparatus ; Ladies* Salon ; Reading:
Room ; Billiard and Smoking: Rooms.
CoucorU held in the Hotel. Lawn Tennia and other game*. Splendid
Cuisine. Excellent Wines. Moderate Prices. Iron Mineral Springs.
Hunt Centra for Kjrcarston*.
' A. MUTTI, Proprietor.
SCH EVEN I NGEN.
NORTH SEA, HOLLA NIK
KURHAUS.
Open from June 1st till October 3rd— 10th according
to the weather.
Magnificent newly-built Kursaal, capable of accommodating 3,000 persona. Terrace
facing the sea to accommodate 6,000 persons. Refreshment. Drawing and Reading Rooms,
uli most elegantly furnished. Fir»t-clasa Club. Two Conccrta Daily by the Berlin
Philharmonic Orchestra (iLe beat in Germany), comiatlng of 80 performers, under the
conductor^ of Professor FRANZ MANN8T2BDT. A Grand Ball ev ery week. Dances
dally. Children's Dances, Ffites, Fireworks, Opcrettes, Variety Entertainment*. Splendid
t ea Bathing for Ladies aud Gentlemen, separately or together.
HOTEL KURHAUS.
Firat class Hotel. 200 luxuriously furnished rooms from 2s. 6cL Splendid Dining and
Refreshment Rooms. Excellent .Cooking aud Winca. 1.4ft. Sea- Baths in the bouse.
Medical Attendance and Massage for Ladies and Gentlemen. Tost and Telegrai»h Offices.
Tariff aud Plana of the Rooms, together with the Season'* Programme, sent on application.
Terms very moderate. Breakfast, Luncheon, abd Dinner, m pension , 6a. ad per day.
During June, end from September 10th to end of aesaon, 30 per cent, reduction on-tt>e
charge for rooms for a prolonged slay. All further particular* Lupplicd on request by the
MANAGING DIRECTOR. .
English Divine Service in the Chapel opposite.. the Kurhaus.
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189S. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51
SALZBURG.
HOTEL DE L’EUROPE.
Opposite the Stitloo. First -Cl us Hotel
surrounded by e !«rge Perk, end offering
the beet view on I he Mountains. Pension ,
until the 16th of Jute end after Ute 16tti of
September, front 4 florins upwards ; from Ute
l Atb of J uly until the 16th of September, from
6*60 florins npwerds. Lewn T« nnto Or* unde.
ELECTRIC LIGHT.
HYDRA UiilO LIFT.
. Moderate Charges.
8EVILLE.
GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS,
SBVIIjIiX, SPAIN.
QITGATEO In the centre end pleasantest pert of the City— Plaza Paclflco. formerly
O Magdalena. All tba rooms looking outside— North. South. Imt, sod Weal — and wanned In (Its
Winter. Fire Places and Storm. Hotel Ommbnme, and Interpreters making priori p«l Kampean
Languages, meet all Tralna PrqprUiar, JULIO MKAZZA. late Manager of the Gsard Hotel Madrid.
SPA,
Grand Hotel Britannique.
F. LE YH \ Proprietor.
PATRONIZED BT THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM.
SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN.
LARGE GARDEN AND TENNIS GROUNDS.
f
Adjoining the Boulevard dee Anglais and the English Church .
lEisro-iLiisia: sfoicbit.
omuibui at each arkital.
SPA.
Hotel de b£Lle vue.
Magnificent Pitualind on ihs Promcnad*. Near Ihe Rnjal Hesldrnre. the Park, end the
Bathe. Large Garden rommipilcnil'ig with the Park, giving mfmltalon to the Fttei.
Orantbu'a every' rtalu.
• ROUMA, Proprietor.
e 2
G. JUNG, Proprietor.
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59
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
GRAND HOTEl'dE L’EUROPE.
First-class, close to the Mineral Springs, Casino, and
Anglican Church. Omnibus to meet all Trains.
FAMILY IIOTEL. HIGHLY HEOOMMENDED.
HENRARD RICHARD, Proprietor.
SPEZIA (Riviera di Levante).
Best and cheapest stopping-place on the way to Florence and Rome. Splendid Scenery.
GRAND HOTEL & CROCE DI MALTA.
A COMFORTABLE well drained and ventilated first-class house, full south, overlooking
u,o Bay. View of the Carrara Mountains. A favourite mild winter resort. Tension
terms, s to 12 fcs. per day, wine iucludcd. COATAS A CO ., Proprietor ».
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.
GRAND HOTEL.
T HIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City be-
tween Charles the Xllth’s Square and the National Museum, on one
of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Millar and the
Baltic. The ltoynl Palace, one of the stateliest in Kurojie, faces the Hotel
on the opposite side of the Harbour. The Royal Opera and the Principal
Theatres are iu dose proximity. The balconies and roof of the Hotel ootu-
maud the most extensive Views of the City. The llouac is replete with every
modem improvement and convenience, ami no expense has been spared to
render it one of the first and most comfortable Hotels on the Continent.
The Building contains 400 Sleeping Apartments, besides Dining Rooms,
Sitting Booms, Coffee and Reading Rooms, u Billiard Room, Baths, Retir-
ing Rooms, and other accommodations. The several flats call bo reached by
Steam Lifts. All European languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances
supplied to all places of interest in the City und Neighbourhood. Ttrn-a
will be found to compare favourably with those of other iirst-class Hotels.
EXCELLENT COOKING. THE CHOICEST WINES.
It. C’AIIIET:, Proprietor.
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MURRAY’S JUNbBOCK ADVEftfMEft.
BT. HEATJSNiJEllQ
(Lake of Thun, near Interlaken).
CRAND HOTEL VICTORIA
sheltered and flnevt part of this old reputed aod
efficacious Mountain Resort. 4,000 feet above the
#e*. Magnificent Panornma of tho Lake and all
tho HerntM ftl.clors. Mountain Railway from
ltoatenl>uc|it landing Stage. Tim Victoria la tliu
largeet and newest Hotel. Rebuilt with every
Modern Comfort. Omnibus. Moderate Terms.
TH08. UNOKR DONALDSON. JYcjWelor.
Branch House Hotel Belmont, Montreal.
ST. MALO.
HOTEL DE FRANCE AND DE
CHATEAUBRIAND.
Sea View. Moderate Charges.
A. FLORISSON, Proprietor.
ST. PETERSBURG.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
Kept by E. RENAULT.
T)EST situation in the Town, Great Morskaia, right opposite the
Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Nevski Prospect.
Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented,
especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with
French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papers. Greatly to be
recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine. Dinners
1 r. 50 k. and 3r. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles.
All languages spoken. Warm and Gold Baths. Post and Telephone on
tho Premises. The English Guide, Charles A. Knntze, highly com-
mended.
tt The Hotel is recommended in Murray s Handbook of Russia.
The HOTED BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL DE
FRANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor.
. . _ STRASBOURG.
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE.
. . . , HYDRAULIC XJFT.
Urge and beet situated, newly rebuilt FIRST-CLASS HOTKL. Near the Station and
Cathedral. Close to the Telegraph and Post Offices. Electric Light In every Room.
Baths. Rooms from 2 marks. Light and attendance included. Moderate Chaiges.
Same Ilonse , HOTEL DES ANGLAIS. MENTONE. 0. MATHIS, Proprietor.
STRASBOURG.
HOTEL NATIONAL
The only Ptrst-Class Hotel newly built.
Opposite the Railway Station.
Bath and Lift System improved. Iurge and
Small Apartments for Families and Single
Gentlemen. Moderate Charges.
O. ■■KIM, Proprietor.
STUTTGART.
Hotel Royal.
Opposite the Station, in the ft m st part
of the Town.
Highly recommended to English and
Amorloan Families.
BANZHAF BROTHERS, Proprietor*.
STUTTGART.
I S situated in the finest part of the Town, In the beautiful Place Royal, adjoining the Rall-
way Station, near the Post Office, the Theatre, the Royal Gardens, opposite the Palace,
and facing the Konlgsbau. This Hotel will be found most comfortable in every respect ; the
Apartments are elegantly furnished, and soluble for Families or Single Gentlemen? Table
d H«e at 1 and 6 o'clock. French and English Newspapers. Electric Light. Central
Heating. Direct entranoe from t he SUtion to the Hotel. II. A 0. MARQUARDT.
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fit
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK 'ADVERTISER.
'Utf,
— Stuttgart 4 -rr— ■
oar th* jf.txjv novrtf of : ' ! ; . . ■ ’ ,
LONDON, PARIS, VIENNA, CONSTANTINOPLE, BERLIN, MILAN,
f PRAGUE, COLOCNE, AND INNSBRUCK.
hb magnificent Capital of Wurlcmlmrg excels by its beautiful
position, healthy climate, and perfect sanitation. Many
excellent schools. Royal, Technical, and Veterinary High
Schools. Technical Schools of Arts and Exhibitions. Conserva-
tory of Music. Agricultural Collego at Ilohenheim. Royal Publio
I library. Natural History and Antiquities Musoum. Church of
every denomination. Extensive Parks and interesting Castlos.
Royal Court Theatre. Concerts. Summer Theatre. Nice Pro-
menade Gardens, with Restaurant and Military Music daily.
Zoological Garden. Races at Weil. Cheap living in most com-
fortable Hotels. Pensions and Private Lodgings. Large River
Bathing Establishments and other Baths. Pleasant Excursions to
the Neckar Valley, Blank Forest, Suabian Alps, and the Lake
Constance.
Further particulars, free on application , from the
AUSKUNPTSSTELLE DBS YEREINS FUR FREMDENYERKEHR
HERMANN WILDT, Bookseller,
SXT7TTO-/
{Enquiry Office of the Strangers' Committee .)
THUN (Switzerland).
HOTEL THUNERHOF.
A FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, one of the most comfortable in Switzerland.
The only one with a Lift in the piece. The Terrace of the Hotel, which haa no rival
in 8wltierUnd. ie worth a visit. The to la Also an English Library.
Lawn Tennis. Concert every day on tbe Terrace or In the Hall. Soir6e danaante
’ once a week.
Pension, during the whole Season, by staying Five Days,
from 8 francs, everything included.
CH. STAEHLE,
Also Proprietor of the Hotel du Paradis at Cannes.
TOULOUSE.
GRAND HOTEL DU MIDI.
PATRONISED BY THE DUKE OF NORFOLK AND PUC DAUMALE.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE PLACE DU CAPITOLS.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT,
Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels in Franoe.
Frequented by the highest Class of English and American Traveller*.
English spoken. Restaurant and Table d’Hdte. Rich Reading Room
and Conversation Salon. 44 The Times” Newspaper.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM AND SALOON.
1UO. POURQUIXR, Proprietor.
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1895.
MURRAY* HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
55
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56 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mtj,
VENICE.
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
(CLOSE TO ST. MARK'S 1*1. ACE.)
1f»0 w oil- Turn iaheil Bedroom* uml Saloous from 2 fr.
upward*, l'omdou from 8 fr. upwards, first -rate Cuiaino. Tulde d'Hdte.
bat)is in every floor. Lift. Telephone. Electric Light
Rs&dlnf, Billiard, and lnoklog*RooBUi
V effect Sanitary Arrangements. Cook's Coupons accepted.
A. BOZZr, Proprietor and Manager.
VH MXOX1.
HOTEL DITALIE BAUER
Near St. Mark's Square. On the Grand Canal.
Facing the Church of St. Maria Salute.
200 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Post Office in the Hotel.
CRAND RESTAURANT BAUER CRUNWALD.
Rendezvous of the Best Society.
J. GRUNWALD, Sen., Proprietor.
VENICE.
HOTEL D’EUROPE.
FIRST-GLASS HOTEL.
SITU A TED IN TUB B EST POSITION ON TEE QBAND CANAL.
' Has just been repaired and greatly improved. New large Dining
lloom on the Ground Floor overlooking the Grand Canal.
SMOKING A ND KF.ADINO ROO MS. BATHS.
Patronised by the most distinguished Families.
HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
MARSEILLE BROTHERS, Proprietors.
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1805.
MDRRAT'3 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
57
OPEN
THE
GRAPH
AI>-
VERONA.
GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES AND ROYAL DEDX TOURS.
The only First Class Hotel In Verona. Host Central Position, near the Roman Amphitheatre
nml the Tomli of Scnligeri. Patronized by Engllnh amt American families. Entirely refur-
nished null all the latest Improvements by the New Proprietors. English Sanitary
Stations. Charge* very moderate.
nished with all tlie latest Improvements by the New Proprietors. Knulish Sanitarj
ti rmitremeiits. Electric Light. Omnlbns at both Station*. Charges very moderate.
K. CEKKSA-UIANKLLA. Proprietors
Hraiieh Houses • Grand Hotel Splendlde, Lugano, Switzerland ; Grand Hotel Victoria.
.Meiiaggio. Lake of Como.
WHOLE
YEAR. L -
JOINING.
TELEPHONE
GRAND HOTEL DU PARC
and GRAND HOTEL.
THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Perk, feoing the Baths,
Springs, and Casino.
PRIVATE PAVILION FOR FAMILIES.
QERMOT, Proprietor.
VIENNA.
HOTEL & PENSION, HAMMERAND.
Establ’ebed 1862. Every modern comfort. One of the most Important Hotels of the
residence, with central situation in neighbourhood cf ths University, Mansion House,
Theatre,. Ate. 1 160 Rooms and Sj loons from 2 kronen. Pension 6 kronen upwards.
Ticket office. Knit. flAMMRRANO, Pronrirtn*- nml Afnna*rr.
GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS & CONTINENTAL.
Entirely He-arranged and considerably Enlarged. Is ths mo>t elegant, comfortable
and bort situated In Vichy, and iho only one frequented by the Rot al Family of Ettg'and.
A part of the Hotel Is arranged and warmed specially for the winter reason. It la the
only Hotel at Vichy having a general hygienic Installation.
Pension from I2fr. per day.
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58
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
A . VIENNA.
HOTEL METKQPQEE.
First-Class and best situated Hotel.
FRANZ JOSEF’S QUAI.
Specially frequented by English and Americans. 300 well-furnished Bod and
,, . .. , Hitting Rooms. . .
II yilntullc up Mui|uni An , ult , eInonU . HU. trie IAgki.
Hatha on every lloor. Ladies’ Sitting and Drawing Room supplied
with English and American Newspapers
Price for Bedroom, including light and attendance, from 1.00 ilorin.
Tariffs in every room. Ij. SPEISER, Manager.
SARGS’ KAL 0 D 0 NT
Aromatic Glycerine Tooth Cream.
IN COLLAPSIBLE TUBES.
A Perfect Luxury — Indispensable to All — A Boon
to Tourists— Improves tho Teeth and Gums.
Sols Manufacturers and Iatrenlars
F. A. SARGS, SOHN & Co., Vienna,
Perfumers to the Austrian Court.
(Inventor of the genuine Glycerine Soap, anno 1858.)
J7oim ask eorrfftehrrr far Sards’
A 'rpt If all 1‘hnrmnits throughout tka World.
VIENNA.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
TABORSTSA88E, 18.
Tb« only ktri« Hotel at Wuua when nothing U charged for light aud wrvire. 200 nom'orlaUa B>wn«
fmtn 1 A upwards. •• ltuatauranl *’ at moierato price*. Card. Daiba Telethon* and Talograidi OlHou.
Tnuu and UraniUuM atop at tii« Hotel. Kngliah Cooking. A. HAltUAMMKS. Director.
VIENNA
HOTEL, ERZHERZOG CARL,
‘ KARNTH N ERST It A SSE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best aititatluu betwocu the Cathedral and RlughtnutiN). Completely
and uewly furuialmd with every modern comfort. Lift, llatlut, Kloctric Light. Rooms from
l Ao norlna upward* : arrangement* made at moderute term*. Kngliah looking
PmoMiMo mr K wont a Famiue*.
VIENNA.
ORABEN-STEFA NS l* LA TZ.
Best situated. Next the Cathedral. Lift, Baths, Ac. Moderate terms ; arrange-
ments made. Cook's Coupon taken.
R. WEISSWASSER, Proprietor.
VIENNA.
HOTEL KRONPRINZ.
FAMILY HOTEL .
Good Position, Centre of the Town. targe Booms with Good View.
TERMS MODS RATE.
* Ij. SEILER, Proprietor.
Digitized by Tooele
189 B. MuArAT’S HANDBOOK ADVKRTISRR. r.o
VIENNA.
jlKTJZfcllF:
£it0li0b Cbemtet,
18 KlRNTHNERRINQ 18.
English and American Prescription* Dispensed by qualified English
Assistants, with Drugs from the best London houses.
ALL ENGLISH PATENT MEDICINES.
FRENCH AND AUSTRIAN MINERAL WATERS.
VIENNA. ~~
Grand Hotel,
I. KARNTHNERRIN G, 9.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.— SPLENDID SITUATION,
ho most agrocablo habitation which Vienna can offer
to Foreigners. All modern comfort combined with modorate
chnrgo8. Specially patronizod by English and Atnoricau
Families. 300 elegantly furnished Rooms, from 1 florin;
Apartments, from o florins upwards. Magnificent Dining
Saloons ; Restaurant Saloon ; Conversation, Smoking, Reading,
and Ladies' Drawing Rooms.
BZCBUZNT COOKXira.
Dinners and Suppers a la Carte or at fixed prices.
Eath Rooms. Hydraulio Lift. Telephone. Electric Light.
OMNIBUS TO AND FROM THE STATION.
Arrangements made with Families Wintering in Vienna.
VIENNA.
residenz Hotel, teinfaltstrasse.
New First-Class Hotel, In tbo most elegant and central position, near tbe Bnrgtbester,
University, ami Mansion House. Every modern comfort. Lift, Electric Light, and bested
by steam Um>ugl»ottU English cooking. Club and Reading-rooms. Moderate prices.
ArrangcmenU made for FamlUea. JUS. ZILLINOKU, /Proprietor.
SPLENDID FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, sdrhmndsd by Its bwn large Gardens
best situation, opposite tbs Promenades and the Park, c An flegaftt Bath-HoUse attached,
supplied with Mineral Water dlredt from tbe principal hot spring (the Kocbbrunnen).
Drawing, Reading, Smoking and Billiard-Rooms. Table d’HOte at One and Six o’clock.
Hydraulio Lift. ' ' - - H. HAJFFWBB.
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60
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL QUISISANA.
Unrivalled position— PARK STBASSE— a hundred steps from tbs Kuiboose.
A BEAUTIFUL FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT.
'i'hf Onlg Out in \Y i ESR.XOEX oh EL'tutM UrvunJ.
NINE PUBLIC ROOMS. EIGHTY SITTING AND BEDROOMS.
OrrKAB HOME COMFORT TO ENOLISU A AMSHIOAN mgn.IM.
LIFT. Ot .A. R. 3D BUSTS.
8PLENDID MINERAL WATER BATHS.
PENSION AT REASONABLE TERMS.
Open and frequented throughout the whole year. — Apply to the Proprietor, L. ROBXR,
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL TAUNUS.
Near the Taunus A Rhine Steamers, Post A Telegraph Offices .
FIRST -CLASS HOTEL, highly Recommended, newly En-
larged and Renovated, and affording every Comfort to English
and American Families.
EXCELLENT CUISINE AND WINES.
Hydraulic Lift. Baths. Moderate Charges.
— PSNSIO. V TBS WUOLB l'BAR. —
J. SCHMITZ- VOLKMUTH.
WIESBADEN. u ..
WHITE SWAN HOTEL. Handbooks.
Bath and J Pension.
Mineral Water direct from the principal For Full Particular s as to Prices,
.prio*, »ta KojhbrunDen. ^ u a. p„uuh t r.
W. NBTTEITDOBJ’F, Proprietor. rMnw
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL NASSAUERHOF WITH LARGE BATHING HOUSE.
HOTEL VILLA NASSAU i
HOTEL ORANIEN (Electric Light)! FINE8 ‘ fmu H0TEL8,
Fr. GOTZ, Proprietor.
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL BELLE -YUE.
First-Class Hotel, fseinir the Park.
RECENTLY ENLARGED AND NEWLY RE-FURNISHED.
VBW 8 LSOAVT BATH XV Til HOUSB.
PENSION. TELEPHONE. GOOD TROUT FISHING.
OHABOM MODKBATK. V. A BLIXBLATTj Proprietor.
WIE8BADEN.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL.
(HOTEL “VIBE JAHBE3ZBITEN.”)
OCCUPIES the FINEST POSITION in the place, opposite the KURSAAL
Theatre and Park. Bathe supplied from the Hot Sprinjp. Comfortable.
Reasonable Prices. Hydraulic Lift* W. ZAIS, Proprietor.
Digitized by
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1895.
MDRRAT’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
61
WIESBADEN.
Grand Hotel do Rhin. (Rhine Hotel.)
FIRST-RATE EMCU8H- AMERICAN NOOSE, WON EVERY MODERN COMFORT.
MODERATE CHARGES.
FREE AND AIRY. SITUATED IN THE PROMENADES.
WINTER GARDEN. LARGE TERRACES. MINERAL BATHS. LIFT.
Steam-heating 1 throughout the House. Fitted Out with the
Most Recent Improvements.
CARRIAGES FROM TnE STATION NOT NEEDED.
MESSMER & PREUSSLER.
WIESBADEN
SUMMER AND WINTER CURE.
28 Bath Establishments, with
about 900 Bath Rooms at all
prices. Cold Water Treat-
ment, Electric, Russian,
Peat, Steam, Hud and
Swimming Baths
Gymnastic
Treatment
EARTH
BATHS.
Illustrated Pamphlet giving
particulars and results of the
treatment at the Baths of Wiesbaden
free on application to the Cur-Committee.
F. HEY’L, , Cur-Director.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS.
11 In s word, Murray's Handbooks have grown with the
century, and have now reached a pitch of accuracy and com-
pleteness which leaves little to be desired.” —
NATIONAL OBSERVER.
le
63 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
~ WILDBAD.
HOTEL KLUMPP
Mr. M. KLUMPP, Proprietor.
HYDRAULIC LIFTS TO EVERY FLOOR.
THIS FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, with separate Breakfast,
Beading, and Conversation Booms, as well as a Smoking
Boom. Large handsome Dining Saloon. An artificial garden
over the river. Beautifully situated in oonnection with the
Old and New Bath Buildings and Conversation House. Five
minutes’ walk from the English Church, and in .the imme-
diate vicinity of the Park and Pump Boom. Well-known
for its elegant and comfortable apartments. Good Cuisine
and Wines, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as one of
the best hotels on the Continent. Table d’hdte at 1 and 5 I
o’clock. Correspondents of principal Banking Houses of
London, Now York, <fco., for the payment of Circular Notes
and Letters of Credit.
OMNIBUS OF THE HOTEL MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FINE PRIVATE CARRIAGES.
Capital Trout Fishing in t/to Hiver Kns.
LAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET.
Reduced Terms for Rooms in May and September.
EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATIOW
ZERMATT.
GRANDEST MOUNTAIN SCENERY.
Seiler’s Grand Hotels.
HOTEL MONT ROSA. HOTEL MONT CERVIN. HOTEL ZERMATT.
HOTEL RIFFELALP. HOTEL RIFFEL. HOTEL 8GHWAZ SEE.
Buffet at the Station. Doctor. Chemist. Baths. Moderate Prices
OPEN FROM 1st MAY TO 30th OCTOBER. *
MURRA Y’S HAND BOOKS.
“The general quality of Murray, the scientific character of
the information, the accuracy and interest of the .historical
particulars, to say nothing of the lowness of the price, place
his guides far ahead of any competitors.'' —
SATURDAY REVIEW.
Digitized by L.ooQle
1895.
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER,
m
London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway.
CONTINENT,
Via NE WJTA VEN, DIEPPE, and ROUEN,
THE SHORTEST AND CHEAPEST ROUTE.
DAY EXPRESS SERVICE. -(Wock-days And 8nndays) from Victouia
and London Bridge, 9.0 am., Brighton, 10.0 am., to Paris (First and
8econd Class).
NIGHT EXPRESS SERVICE.— Leaving Victoria at 8.50 p.m., and
London Bridge at 0.0 p.m. (Week-days and Sundays). First, Socond,
and Third Class.
CONNECTION OF TRAINS WITH STEAMERS.— All tho above Day
and Night Service Trains run alongside the Steamers at Newiiaven
and Dieppe Harbours.
THE BOAT TRAINS between London, Brighton, and Newhaven, and
between DIEPPE and Paris, are fitted with the Westinghonse Automatic
and Continuous Brake.
LUGGAGE will bo registered throughout betwoen LONDON and PARIS, by
tho Day and Night Service, flfl-Tbs. weight being allowed to each pas-
senger.
SPECIAL CHEAP EXCURSIONS from London to Paris at Eastor,
Whitsuntide, and August. Bank Holidays.
NEW STEAMERS. — The splendid Steamers, “Brittany,” “Normandy”
“Paris," “Rouen,” “Reaford,” “Seine,” and “Tamlso,” nro built. of steel;
ibey arc of great j>owor and speed, and furnished with every accommo-
dation for tho comfort of all classes or passengers, and are fitted with
the Electric Light.
Passengors are booked through between LONDON and all tho principal
Towns in the SOUTH OP FRANCE, ITALY, SWITZERLAND, Ac.
Tickets for Circular Tours through France, Switzerland, GERMANY, Ac.,
with choice of several routes, are issued by this service.
CAEN NORMANDY *«» BRITTANY
Via NEWHAVEN and OUI8TREHAM.
THE ONLY DIRECT ROUTE. THREE PASSENGER SERVICES WEEKLY.
From London every I From CAEN every
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. | Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
/ Single First, 25s.; Second. 21*. ; Third, 13*.
FARES | Return. ..One Week, 30*.; 259.; 15*. — Two Months, 88*.; 33*.; 20*.
Tickets and every information at the Principal Offices ;
LONDON.
West End General Inquiry and Booking OJJlx* :
28, Regent Stroot, and 8, Grand Hotel Buildings.
niu nmm f Arthur Street East ; and
CUy OPkes { jJ A Yd*, 4 t Royal Exchange Buildings.
Station*: London Bridge and Victoria.
PARI 8.
10, Rue du 4 Septembre
(new tbs Bouree) ;
4, 6 , A 8, Rue St. Anne.
Station: St. Lazare
(near the Madeleine).
(By order),
LnKDOS $e!D0t TEJUKIHC6, 1695.
A. BARLE,
Secretary and General Manager.
Digitized by LaOOQLe
64
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1895.
SOUTH EASTERN RAILWAY
ENGLAND and the CONTINENT.
Nine Continental Services Daily
▼1A
FOLKESTONE & BOULOGNE,
DOVER & CALAIS, DOVER & OSTEND.
The Traint from ami to Charing Cross and Cannon Street Stations run in
Connection xoith the Magnificent Fast Steam Ships
“ CALAIS-DOUVRES ” and “ VICTORIA, ”
Via DOVER and CALAIS ;
TI1B
"MARY BEATRICE,” "ALBERT YICTOR” and "LOUISE DAGMAR,”
Via FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE ;
AND WITH TUB
" PRINCESSE JOSEPHINE,” PRINCESSE 1IENRIETTE,"
“ LA FLAHDRE," "PRINCE ALBERT,” " YILLE DE DOUYRES,"
" LEOPOLD II.” and " MARIE HENRIEnE,"
Via DOVER and OSTEND.
THIRD CLASS SERVICES to PARIS, BRUSSELS, See., from
CHARINQ CROSS and CANNON STREET, at 8.15 p.m.
N.D. — AU Continental Through Tickets issued by the Short Sea Houles, via DOVER
and CALAIS and DOVER and OSTL'yo , whether issued at Stations , Booking Offices, or
Ag mies, are available by SOUTH EASTS US RAIL M'A
Lull information can be obtained on application io the General Manager, South Eastern
Railway Loudmi Bridge Statiou. S.E. ; Enquiry Offices at Charing Cross an t Cannon Street
Station*; Messrs. II. Gaze and Sons (Limited), 142, Strand. 4, Northumberland Aveuu**,
la, Wealbou me Grove, and Piccadilly Circus ; Messrs. Swan and Loach (Limited), 3, Charing
Crow* and Piccadilly Circus; The Army and Navy Stores, 106, Victoria Street, S.W. ;
I ale 'rational Sleeping Car Company, 14, Cocks^ur Suect, S.W. ; and iu Paris to the
S. E. It. Agency, 4, Boulevard dos ltalicua.
MYLES FENTON, General Manager .
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